WO2015177837A1 - Woven fabric and method for manufacturing woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

Provided is a woven fabric configured so as to allow formation of decoration such as pleats. The woven fabric (10) comprises multiple warp threads (11) and multiple woof threads (12) that intersect with the multiple warp threads. Some of the multiple warp threads are contracting warp threads (21) that contract more in the longitudinal direction than the other warp threads when a specified process is applied. The contracting warp threads (21) have, in at least one area in the longitudinal direction thereof, a first skipping section (21J) in which a first specified number of adjacent woof threads (12) are skipped and multiple first skipping sections (21J) are disposed in a specific first pattern. It is also possible to use contracting woof threads (22), which contract more in the longitudinal direction than the other woof threads when a specified process is applied, for some of the multiple woof threads (12).

Description

Woven fabric and method for producing woven fabric

The present invention relates to a woven fabric and a method for manufacturing the woven fabric.

For example, some garments such as skirts, dresses, dresses, jackets and pants have decorations such as pleats. Here, there is known a method of weaving a cloth by interweaving a thread that easily forms pleats and a thread that is difficult to form pleats, and attaching the pleats using the woven cloth (Patent Documents 1 and 2).

JP 2008-7879 A JP 2004-339671 A

In the conventional technique described in Patent Document 1, the ratio of thermoplastic fibers is increased in an area where pleats are formed, and the ratio of thermoplastic fibers is decreased in an area where pleats are not formed. Thereby, in patent document 1, the joint of the area | region which forms a pleat and the area | region which does not form a pleat can be made inconspicuous.

The prior art described in Patent Document 2 manufactures a fabric in which either warp or weft is a yarn suitable for pleating and the other is a yarn that is difficult to form pleating. Then, the fabric is folded along a predetermined crease and pleated, and then selected. Thereby, the boundary between the portion where the pleats are formed and the portion where the pleats are not formed is emphasized.

In any conventional technique, yarns that are easy to form pleats and yarns that are difficult to form pleats are mixed and used, but in any case, by applying thermal processing or mechanical processing to a predetermined part of the woven fabric. Forcibly forming the crease later. Therefore, pleats may become thin or disappear if worn repeatedly, wet in the rain, or washed. This is because the conventional woven fabric is only manufactured so that a decoration such as a pleat can be easily formed later, and does not incorporate a structure for forming the decoration itself.

The present invention has been made in view of the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide a woven fabric and a method of manufacturing the woven fabric that can form decorations such as pleats.

The woven fabric according to one aspect of the present invention has a plurality of warp yarns and a plurality of wefts intersecting with the plurality of warp yarns, and when a specific process is applied to some of the plurality of warp yarns The shrinkable warp has a first jumping portion that jumps over a first predetermined number of adjacent wefts at least at one point in the length direction. A plurality of first jumping portions are arranged in a predetermined first pattern.

In a preferred embodiment, some of the plurality of wefts are contraction-type wefts that contract more in the length direction than other wefts when a specific process is applied, and the contraction-type wefts are: At least one point in the length direction has a second jumping portion that jumps over a second predetermined number of adjacent warps, and a plurality of second jumping portions are arranged in a predetermined second pattern.

In a preferred embodiment, it has a ground woven structure obtained by crossing other warp yarns and other weft yarns, and the first predetermined number is the number of other warp yarns in the ground woven texture that other warp yarns continuously. It is set to a value larger than the number of jumps.

In a preferred embodiment, the second predetermined number is set to a value larger than the number of other weft yarns that continuously jump over other warp yarns in the ground weave structure.

In a preferred embodiment, the first jumping portion is either a front side first jumping portion passing through the front side of the woven fabric or a back side first jumping portion passing through the back side of the woven fabric, and the second jumping portion is a woven fabric. It is either a front side second jumping portion passing through the front side of the fabric or a back side second jumping portion passing through the back side of the woven fabric, and the front side first jumping portion is a predetermined front side first included in a predetermined first pattern. The back side first jump portion is arranged in a pattern, the back side first jump portion is arranged in a predetermined back side first pattern included in the predetermined first pattern, and the front side second jump portion is a predetermined front side second included in the predetermined second pattern. Arranged in the pattern, the back side second interlaced portion is arranged in a predetermined back side second pattern included in the predetermined second pattern.

In a preferred embodiment, the predetermined front side first pattern and the predetermined back side first pattern are set so that the front side first jump portion and the back side first jump portion are close to each other, and the predetermined front side second pattern and The predetermined back side second pattern is set so that the front side second jump portion and the back side second jump portion are close to each other.

In a preferred embodiment, the plurality of contraction-type warps are arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the plurality of other warps, and the plurality of contraction-type wefts are arranged in a predetermined first between the plurality of other wefts. It is arranged in 4 patterns.

In a preferred embodiment, when a specific treatment is applied, the shrinkable warp is contracted in the length direction more than the other warp to form a permanent first shrinkage portion, and the shrinkable weft is When the specific process is applied, the permanent second contraction portion is formed by contracting in the length direction larger than other wefts.

In a preferred embodiment, a plurality of first contraction portions are continuously arranged to form a first broken line portion along the weft direction, and a plurality of second contraction portions are continuously arranged to obtain a warp. A second broken line portion is formed along the direction, and a plurality of first contracted portions and a plurality of second contracted portions are arranged in a predetermined direction, whereby a third bent line along an oblique direction between the weft direction and the warp direction is formed. Part is formed.

In a preferred embodiment, the first contraction part and the second contraction part can be expanded and contracted according to an external force.

In the method for manufacturing a woven fabric according to another aspect of the present invention, a first predetermined number of adjacent shrinkable warps that contract more than other warps when a specific treatment is applied are provided between a plurality of warps. Arranged in a predetermined first pattern so that at least one first jumping portion that jumps over the wefts is formed, and a plurality of wefts contract more than other wefts when a specific process is applied. The shrinkable wefts are arranged in a predetermined second pattern such that at least one second jumping portion that jumps over a second predetermined number of adjacent warps is formed.

A woven fabric according to still another aspect of the present invention is formed of a first structure woven from a plurality of warps, a plurality of wefts intersecting with the plurality of warps, a plurality of contraction-type warps, and a plurality of contraction-type wefts. A second structure that is overlapped by being woven into the first structure, and the shrink type warp, the first jumping portion that jumps over the first predetermined number of adjacent wefts is arranged in the first pattern In the shrinkable weft, the second jumping portion that jumps over the second predetermined number of adjacent warps is arranged in the second pattern, and the shrinkable warp is larger than the warp when the specific processing is applied. By contracting in the length direction, the first contraction portion is formed against the restoring force of the first structure, and the contraction type weft contracts in the length direction more than the weft when the specific treatment is applied. To form the second contraction against the restoring force of the first structure That.

In a preferred embodiment, the shrinkable warp is arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the plurality of warps, and the shrinkable weft is arranged in a predetermined fourth pattern between the plurality of wefts.

In a preferred embodiment, the first jump portion and the second jump portion are formed so as to be located on at least one or both of the front side and the back side of the first structure.

According to the present invention, when a specific treatment is applied to the woven fabric, the shrinkable warp is greatly shrunk, the side having the first jumping portion is shrunk into a valley, and the opposite side of the first jumping portion is jumped out to become a mountain. As a result, the woven fabric is decorated. Furthermore, if a shrinkable weft having at least one second jumping portion is disposed, the woven fabric can be further decorated. Since the decoration of the woven fabric is built in the woven fabric itself, it is possible to form a decoration that is strong against wearing or washing.

It is a front view of the clothes by which decorations, such as a pleat and a linear pattern, were given. It is an example of the organization chart of a woven fabric. Explanatory drawing which shows the general | schematic structure of a normal warp and a weft, and a shrink type warp and a weft. It is sectional drawing which shows a mode that the peak and valley as a physical decoration are formed in a woven fabric by shrinking and shrinking | contracting a shrinkable type | mold thread | yarn. It is sectional drawing which shows a mode that a mountain and a trough are formed in the front and back of a woven fabric. FIG. 3 is an explanatory diagram showing, in association with each other, decoration patterns A to C formed on a woven fabric, information indicating whether warp or weft is provided with an interlaced portion, and the shape of the decoration obtained by the interlaced portion. Explanatory drawing which matches and shows the shape of a decoration, and the arrangement | positioning method of the contraction type thread | yarn which implement | achieves the shape. The organization chart of the area | region A which forms a decoration in the diagonal direction. The organization chart of the area | region B which forms a decoration in the vertical direction. The organization chart of the area | region C which forms a decoration in a horizontal direction. Explanatory drawing which shows schematic structure of a loom. The flowchart which shows the manufacturing method of a woven fabric. Explanatory drawing which concerns on 2nd Example and shows the relationship between the shape of a decoration and the formation pattern which implement | achieves the shape. Explanatory drawing which shows the example which concerns on 3rd Example and prepares the formation pattern of a decoration more finely.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings. However, it should be noted that this embodiment is merely an example for realizing the present invention, and does not limit the technical scope of the present invention.

In the present embodiment, as described in detail below, when a specific process is applied, a shrinkable warp that contracts in the length direction larger than other warps, and when a specific process is applied, from other wefts And a modified weft that contracts in the length direction. The shrinkable warp and the shrinkable weft jump over a predetermined number of yarns in the other direction at least at one point in the length direction. The jumping portion may be provided on either the front or back of the woven fabric. A plurality of jumping portions can be provided on the front and back sides, respectively. When a specific process such as heating is applied, the shrinkable warp and the shrinkable weft shrink, and the jumping portion shrinks to form a shrinkage. A linear decoration such as a straight line or a curved line can be formed by continuing the contraction. The contraction part keeps its shape permanently. The permanent contraction part means that the contraction part does not disappear due to normal wearing or washing, so that the user can always recognize the contraction part. The contraction part always keeps its shape against the restoring force of the ground woven structure, but it expands and contracts when a certain amount of external force is applied.

The first embodiment will be described with reference to FIGS. FIG. 1 is a front view of a garment 1 manufactured from a woven fabric according to this embodiment. The garment 1 is one application example of the woven fabric 10 (see FIG. 2 and the like) according to the present embodiment, and includes, for example, a dress, a skirt, a jacket, pants, a shirt, an apron, gloves, and socks. The woven fabric 10 according to the present embodiment can be applied to other than the garment 1 such as a bag, a furoshiki, a table cloth, a handkerchief, various covers, a tie, a ribbon, a wallet, a card holder, a cushion, an umbrella, and the like.

The garment 1 is manufactured, for example, by combining a front body 2, a back body 3, and a sleeve 4. The front body 2, the back body 3, and the sleeve 4 may be formed separately and then sewn together. Alternatively, as known as a non-sewing manufacturing method, the front body 2, the back body 3, and the sleeve 4 may be woven simultaneously, and finally the portion of the connection portion through which the human body passes is cut.

Cloth 1 is provided with a plurality of decorative portions 5A to 5F. These decorative portions 5A to 5F are not physically provided on the garment 1 later, such as embroidery or paint, but are physical decorations provided on the woven fabric 10 that is the material of the garment 1 from the beginning. In the present embodiment, a linear pattern or a pleat is taken as an example of the physical decoration that is prepared in the woven fabric 10 from the beginning. When the decorative portions 5A to 5F are not distinguished, they are called decorative portions 5. The decoration part 5 is a linear pattern or pleats. The linear pattern here is not a planar pattern such as a ground pattern, but a three-dimensional linear pattern obtained by deforming a part of the woven structure into a three-dimensional concave or convex shape. In addition, the shape and arrangement | positioning of the decoration part 5 shown to the clothing 1 are a mere illustration, and the range of this invention is not limited to the structure shown in FIG.

A decorative portion 5 </ b> A extending in the lateral direction is formed on the shoulder portion of the garment 1. A corrugated decorative portion 5B is formed from the chest to the waist of the garment 1. A lattice-shaped decorative portion 5 </ b> C is formed on the lower portion of the garment 1 from the waist. In addition, an arcuate decorative portion 5D is formed at the bottom of the garment 1. On both sleeves of the garment 1, a circular decorative portion 5E and a linear decorative portion 5F are formed.

FIG. 2 is an example of the woven structure of the woven fabric 10 that is the material of the garment 1. In FIG. 2, the example which incorporates a stretch structure | tissue only in the longitudinal direction of the woven fabric 10 is shown. An example in which the stretch structure is also incorporated in the lateral direction of the woven fabric 10 will be described later with reference to FIGS.

First, the yarn used in the woven fabric 10 will be described with reference to FIG. The ground weave structure as an example of the “first structure” is formed by crossing a normal warp 11 and a normal weft 12 according to a predetermined rule. As the woven structure of the ground, there are various types such as plain weave and twill weave. The normal warp 11 and the normal weft 12 are manufactured from, for example, polyester. The normal warp 11 is an example of “other warp” or “warp”, and the normal weft 12 is an example of “other weft” or “weft”. In addition, the material of a normal thread | yarn is not limited to polyester. Other material yarns may be used.

The stretch structure as the “second structure” is superimposed on the woven structure of the ground. The stretch structure is a woven structure formed from yarns that contract by a specific process. Therefore, the stretch structure is formed from either one or both of the shrinkable warp 21 and the shrinkable weft 22. The stretch direction and formation method of the stretch tissue will be described later with reference to FIG.

The shrinkable warp 21 includes, for example, a core 211 and a covering thread 212 wound around the outer periphery of the core 211. Similarly, the shrinkable weft 22 is constituted by, for example, a core 221 and a covering thread 222 wound around the outer periphery of the core 221. For the cores 211 and 221, for example, a material such as polyurethane that contracts greatly in the length direction when heated at a predetermined temperature is used. For the covering yarns 212 and 222, the same material as that of a normal yarn, such as polyester, is used. By matching the material of the covering yarns 212 and 222 with the material of the yarns 11 and 12 used in the ground weave structure, it is possible to eliminate a sense of incongruity when using different materials and obtain a natural ground pattern. it can.

However, this embodiment is not limited to the case where the materials of the normal yarns 11 and 12 and the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are matched, and the materials of both may be different. Furthermore, the material of the normal warp 11 and the normal weft 12 may be changed, the material of the core 211 of the contraction type warp 21 and the core 221 of the contraction type weft 22 may be changed, or the coating of the contraction type warp 21 The material of the covering yarn 222 of the working yarn 212 and the shrinkable weft 22 may be changed. Furthermore, the thread thickness and color can be changed for each thread 11, 12, 21, and 22.

Further, the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 may be composed of a plurality of different materials as described above, or may be composed of a single material. The contraction-type yarns 21 and 22 only have to have a property of contracting more than the yarn constituting the woven structure of the ground when “specific processing” such as heat treatment is applied. In other words, the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 do not shrink before the specific process is applied. Due to this property, the woven fabric 10 can be woven stably and accurately using both the normal yarns 11 and 12 and the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22. The material and thickness of the yarn, the structure of the ground woven structure, etc. can be determined as appropriate.

Return to Figure 2. The ground woven structure of the woven fabric 10 shown in FIG. 2 is a plain woven structure of normal warp 11 and normal weft 12. Part of the plurality of warps constituting the plain weave is a shrinkable warp 21. In the example shown in FIG. 2, the shrinkable warp 21 is used instead of the normal warp 11 for every sixth stitch. Thereby, the stretch structure formed from the shrinkable warp 21 is woven and overlapped with the ground structure.

The shrinkable warp 21 jumps over a predetermined number of wefts 12 at a predetermined position according to a first pattern determined from the design of the garment 1. Jumping over other intersecting threads is also called sliding the thread. In FIG. 2, the portion where the shrinkable warp 21 jumps over the weft 12 is a jumping portion 21 </ b> J as a “first jumping portion”.

The number (first predetermined number) that the shrinkable warp 21 jumps over the weft 12 is set to a value larger than the number that the warp 11 jumps continuously over the weft 12 in the ground weave structure. The number of jumps can be set as appropriate according to the size and strength of the decoration. Here, if the number of warps 11 continuously jumping over the weft 12 in the woven structure of the ground is called the first reference number, the first predetermined number can be set as a value that is several times the first reference number.

The jumping portion 21J includes a front side jumping portion 21J (1) passing through the front side of the woven fabric 10 and a back side jumping portion 21J (2) passing through the back side of the woven fabric 10. One shrinkable warp 21 has at least one jump portion 21J. In a normal case, one shrinkable warp 21 has at least one front side jump portion 21J (1) and one back side jump portion 21J (2) (actually a plurality of each).

When heated, the shrinkable warp 21 shrinks greatly in the length direction as shown by arrow F1. When the front side jumping portion 21J (1) contracts, the back side of the front side jumping portion 21J (1) protrudes. A plurality of adjacent front-side jumping portions 21J (1) contracts to form a broken line like a groove running in the lateral direction.

Similarly, when the back side jumping portion 21J (2) contracts due to heating, the front side of the back side jumping portion 21J (2) protrudes. As the plurality of adjacent back side jumping portions 21J (2) contract, a broken line such as a ridge line running in the lateral direction is formed. Then, a fold line such as a ridge line running in the lateral direction and a fold line such as a groove are formed on the woven fabric 10 in proximity to each other, so that the woven fabric 10 is three-dimensionally deformed to obtain a three-dimensional effect.

In order to explain more concretely, a number for identifying the yarn of the woven structure is attached. Use alphabets for rows and Arabic numerals for columns. The shrinkable warp 21 is used in the rows a and g. a2 to a6 and g2 to g6 are front side jumping portions 21J (1). When a plurality of adjacent front side jumping portions 21J (1) contract, for example, a broken line (a4, b4, c4, d4, e4, f4, g4, h4 connecting lines 4) ) Is formed.

A13 to a17 and g12 to g17 are back side jumping portions 21J (2). When the plurality of adjacent back side jumping portions 21J (2) contract, for example, a broken line (a line connecting a15, b15, c15, d15, e15, f15, g15, h15) with the weft 12 in the 15th row as the top is formed. It is formed.

FIG. 4 schematically shows changes when the shrinkable yarn is contracted. Fig.4 (a) is sectional drawing which expands and shows the part in which the jump part 21J of the contraction type warp 21J was formed, and shows the state before performing heat processing. For convenience, in FIG. 4, the warp direction is the horizontal direction of the drawing. In FIG. 4, the front side jumping part and the back side jumping part are not distinguished.

FIG. 4B shows a state after the heat treatment. When the jumping portion 21J contracts, the weft 12 near the center of the jumping portion 21J protrudes downward in the figure, and a shrinking portion 23 is formed.

FIG. 5 shows a state in which the front side jumping portion 21J (1) and the back side jumping portion 21J (2) are contracted. Since the jumping portion 21J (1) that becomes a valley and the jumping portion 21J (2) that becomes a mountain are arranged relatively close to each other, as shown in FIG. 5, the jumping portions 21J (1), 21J (2) ) Is greatly changed three-dimensionally. As a result, a stereoscopic effect beyond a simple pattern can be obtained.

Referring to FIG. 6, a method for forming the decorative portion 5 having a different direction on the woven fabric 10 will be described. On the upper side of FIG. 6, the formation patterns A, B, and C of the decorative portion 5 are shown. The formation pattern A forms the decorative portion 5 in the oblique direction, the formation pattern B forms the decorative portion 5 in the vertical direction (Y direction), and the formation pattern C forms the decorative portion 5 in the horizontal direction (X direction). Indicates when to do.

In the lower part of FIG. 6, a table in which the layout of the jumping part is associated with the shape of the decorative part 5 obtained by contracting the jumping part is shown for each of the formation patterns A to C by direction. . Although the formation pattern A in the oblique direction differs in the formation position of the interlaced portion depending on the angle, the formation pattern A is collectively shown as one formation pattern A because of the rotational symmetry.

In the case of forming the decorative portion 5 in the oblique direction, as shown in the formation pattern A, a plurality of jumping portions are arranged in the longitudinal direction (warp direction) and the lateral direction (weft direction), respectively. By adjusting the number of interlaced portions in the vertical direction and the number of interlaced portions in the horizontal direction, the angle of the decorative portion 5 (for example, the angle with respect to the warp yarn 11 or the weft yarn 12) can be changed.

When forming the decorative portion 5 in the vertical direction, as shown in the formation pattern B, a plurality of jumping portions 22J along the weft are arranged. By arranging the jumping portions 22J that slide in the horizontal direction in the vertical direction, the decorative portion 5 extending in the vertical direction can be obtained.

When forming the decorative portion 5 in the horizontal direction, as shown in the formation pattern C, a plurality of jumping portions 21J along the warp direction are arranged. By arranging the interlaced portions 21J that slide in the vertical direction in the horizontal direction, the decorative portion 5 extending in the horizontal gazette can be obtained. In FIG. 6, the case where the formation patterns are associated with each other by passing through 8 regions by 45 degrees is described, but the angles of the regions are not necessarily equal. In addition, as in other embodiments described later, various decorations can be formed only with the formation pattern A for corresponding to the formation of the decoration in the oblique direction, or various formation patterns can be prepared and variously prepared. A decoration can also be formed.

FIG. 7 shows a method of forming decorations of various shapes by combining a plurality of decoration portions 5 having different formation patterns. As shown in FIG. 7A, in the case of generating a rectangular decoration, a plurality of decoration portions 5 are formed with a horizontal formation pattern C on the upper and lower sides extending in the horizontal direction. Thereby, the decoration part which shapes an upper side and a lower side can be obtained. Further, a plurality of decorative portions 5 are formed with a vertical formation pattern B on the right and left sides extending in the vertical direction. Thereby, the decoration part which forms a right side and a left side can be obtained.

As shown in FIG. 7B, when generating a triangular decoration, a plurality of decorative portions 5 are formed with a horizontal formation pattern C on the bottom extending in the horizontal direction. A plurality of decorative portions 5 are formed with the formation pattern A in an oblique direction on the right side and the left side that are inclined toward the apex. Since the angle is different between the right side and the left side, the formation position of the jumping portion is different, but the description is omitted here.

As shown in FIG. 7C, when generating a circular decoration, the shape of the circle is imitated by appropriately arranging the formation patterns A to C. For example, a decorative portion of the horizontal formation pattern C is arranged on the upper and lower sides, a vertical formation pattern B is arranged on the left and right sides, and a decorative portion of the formation pattern A in the oblique direction is arranged obliquely. Part can be obtained.

FIG. 8 shows the texture of the formation pattern A in the oblique direction. FIG. 8A shows the woven structure 10A1 on the mountain side, and FIG. 8B shows the woven structure 10A2 on the valley side. Although FIG. 8A and FIG. 8B roughly correspond, they do not correspond exactly. The same applies to FIGS. 9 and 10.

Here, a mountain indicates a shape that protrudes from the surrounding weave structure. In the case of Fig.8 (a), the convex shape from which woven structure | tissue 10A1 protrudes toward an observer is meant. The valley indicates a shape that is recessed from the surrounding woven structure. In the case of FIG.8 (b), the concave shape which falls toward the other side (the direction opposite to the direction in which an observer exists) of a paper surface is meant.

Since the formation pattern A forms an oblique decorative portion, the vertical jump portion 21J and the horizontal jump portion 22J are arranged in the woven structure 10A2 according to the angle (orientation) of the decorative portion. Is done. By combining the vertical jumping portion 21J and the horizontal jumping portion 22J, an oblique decorative portion is obtained.

As shown in FIG. 8 (a), the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are partially exposed in the woven structure 10A1 on the mountain side, but they are not the jumping portions 21J and 22J. The jumping portions 21J and 22J are generated by jumping a predetermined number of yarns in different directions so as to shrink during the heat treatment.

The partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21, 22 (a1, a4, g1, g4, h1) do not jump over a predetermined number of yarns in different directions, and are held down by normal yarns 11, 12. For example, paying attention to the shrinkable warp 21 passing through the row a, the yarn 21 intersects with the normal weft 12 (a2, a3, a5, a6), so that deformation when heated is suppressed. . Therefore, the shrinkable warp 21 passing through the row a does not have the jumping portion 21J as long as it is shown in FIG.

FIG. 9 shows the woven structure of the formation pattern B in the vertical direction. Fig.9 (a) shows the woven structure 10B1 of the side used as a peak, and FIG.9 (b) shows the woven structure 10B2 of the side used as a trough. FIG. 9A shows the woven structure 10B1 on the mountain side, and as described in FIG. 8A, the jumping portion 22J is not provided. The interlaced portion is formed on the side of the organization that becomes the valley. The partially exposed shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are crossed with the normal yarns 11 and 12, so that deformation when heated is suppressed. For example, in column a, the shrinkable warp 21 is continuously exposed by two wefts at a1 and a2 and a4 and a5, but the weft 12 passing through the third row and the weft passing through the sixth row Therefore, deformation at the time of heating is suppressed.

As shown in FIG. 9 (b), a plurality of lateral jumping portions 22J are arranged in the longitudinal direction in the weave structure 10B2 on the valley side. That is, in FIG. 9B, the jumping portion 22J including a1, b1, and c1, the jumping portion 22J including e1, f1, g1, and h1, and the jumping portion 22J including b4, c4, d4, e4, and f4 are illustrated. Is shown. Each jumping portion 22J is formed by jumping five warps each. The plurality of interlaced portions 22J shown in the first row are partially shown for convenience of illustration.

FIG. 10 shows the woven structure of the formation pattern C in the horizontal direction. FIG. 10A shows the woven structure 10C1 on the mountain side, and FIG. 10B shows the woven structure 10C2 on the valley side. As shown in FIG. 10B, the row f is formed with a jumping portion 21J that jumps at least six wefts 12 and contraction-type wefts 22.

As described with reference to FIGS. 8 to 10, by configuring a woven structure in which interlaced portions are arranged in a predetermined pattern, it is possible to obtain decorative portions in an oblique direction, a longitudinal direction, and a lateral direction. Various shapes such as a rectangular shape, a triangular shape, and a circular shape can be expressed by combining a plurality of decorative portions having different directions.

Furthermore, as described in FIG. 5, the woven fabric 10 can be greatly deformed by arranging the front side jumping portion and the back side jumping portion close to each other. Thereby, decoration like pleats can also be realized.

An outline of a method for manufacturing the woven fabric 10 will be described with reference to FIGS. 11 and 12. The woven fabric generation system that generates the woven fabric 10 includes, for example, a design data generation device 110, an automatic loom 120 connected to the design data generation device 110 via a communication network CN, and a heating device 130. Can do.

The design data generation device 110 is a computer that determines the configuration (woven structure) of the woven fabric 10 based on the design of the garment 1 and outputs it as design data. The design data generation device 110 may be connected to the automatic loom 120 without going through the communication network CN. For example, the automatic loom 120 may be provided with a function for generating design data.

The automatic loom 120 includes, for example, a warp supply unit 121, a weft supply unit 122, a contraction type warp supply unit 123, a contraction type weft supply unit 124, and a loom control device 125. The warp supply unit 121 supplies the warp 11. The weft supply unit 122 supplies the weft 12. The shrinkable warp supply unit 123 supplies the shrinkable warp 21. The shrinkable weft supply unit 124 supplies the shrinkable weft 22.

The loom control device 125 controls the supply units 121 to 124. The loom control device 125 controls each of the supply units 121 to 124 based on the data received via the communication network CN. The data generated by the design data generation device 110 can be input to the loom control device 125 without going through the communication network CN. For example, data can be input to the loom control device 125 by storing the data in a storage medium such as a flash memory device and connecting the storage medium to the loom control device 125.

The heating device 130 is a device for applying heat treatment as an example of “specific processing” to the woven fabric 10. The heating device 130 may be installed in the vicinity of the automatic loom 120 or may be installed at a location away from the automatic loom 120. The decorative part 5 appears by heating the woven fabric physically containing the decorative structure through the heating device 130. When the woven fabric before the decoration part 5 appears (the woven fabric before the heat treatment) can be put in the distribution as it is, it can be considered that the heating device 130 is not included in the woven fabric generation system.

Note that the specific treatment is not limited to heat treatment. For example, contraction type, such as cooling processing, pressurizing processing, decompression processing, processing to irradiate light or radio waves of a specific wavelength, processing to apply ultrasonic waves, processing to apply vibration, processing to exposure to a specific component gas or liquid, etc. As long as the yarns 21 and 22 can be contracted more than normal yarns, any processing may be used. In addition, when heat treatment is used as the specific treatment, the heating method is not particularly limited. For example, you may heat with high temperature steam, infrared rays, warm air, etc.

The schematic operation of the woven fabric generation system will be described with reference to the flowchart of FIG. The designer determines the design of the clothes 1 (S1). At this time, decorations such as pleats and linear patterns can also be determined.

When the decoration is determined, as described in FIG. 6, the arrangement of the formation patterns A to C for realizing the determined decoration is calculated, and the other considerations such as the arrangement of the formation pattern and the ground pattern are calculated. In consideration of the above, the woven structure is determined (S2). The configuration of the woven structure can be automatically determined using the design data generation device 110. Data indicating the determined structure of the woven tissue is sent from the design data generation device 110 to the loom control device 125 of the loom 120 via the communication network CN.

The loom control device 125 generates the woven fabric 10 by controlling the supply units 121 to 124 based on the received data (S3). The woven fabric 10 has a normal warp yarn 11 and a normal weft yarn 12 and a first jump portion 21J formed in a predetermined first pattern, and a plurality of contractions arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the normal warp yarns 11. It is manufactured by weaving a mold warp 21 and a plurality of contraction-type wefts 22 formed in a predetermined fourth pattern between normal wefts 12 with a second jumping portion 22J formed in a predetermined second pattern. .

The predetermined first pattern defines the number of weft yarns jumped by the vertical jump portion 21J, the appearance position of the jump portion 21J, and the like. The predetermined second pattern defines the number of warp yarns jumped by the horizontal jump portion 22J, the appearance position of the jump portion 22J, and the like. The predetermined third pattern defines a position through which the shrinkable warp 21 is passed. The predetermined fourth pattern defines the position through which the shrinkable weft 22 is passed. These patterns can be automatically generated based on the design data.

The woven fabric 10 is passed through the heating device 130 and heated (S4). Thereby, each jumping part 21J and 22J shrink | contract, and the decoration parts 5, such as a pleat, are produced | generated (S5). Step S5 shows a state in which the woven fabric is woven, and is not exactly a manufacturing process. Therefore, step S5 is indicated by a two-dot chain line. Not only the decorative portion 5 is generated by the heat treatment, but also the decorative portions 5 such as pleats are related to each other, so that a three-dimensional feeling is created in the woven fabric 10.

In the present embodiment configured as described above, a decorative portion that appears when heated is provided in the woven fabric 10. For this reason, it is possible to obtain a stable decoration that is strong against wearing or washing, as compared with the prior art in which a highly shrinkable thread is used and mechanically and thermally pleated afterwards with an iron or the like.

In this embodiment, as shown in FIG. 5, a larger deformation can be caused in the woven fabric 10 by arranging the woven structure as a mountain and the woven structure as a valley close to each other. By adjusting the configuration of the peaks and valleys, a desired three-dimensional decoration effect can be obtained.

The second embodiment will be described with reference to FIG. The following embodiments including the present embodiment correspond to modifications of the first embodiment. Therefore, the difference from the first embodiment will be mainly described. In the present embodiment, the decorative portions of various shapes are formed using only the formation pattern A that forms the decorative portions in the oblique direction described in FIGS. 6 and 8.

In FIG. 13A, in order to obtain a rectangular decoration, a woven structure for generating a decorative portion of the formation pattern A is arranged in a rectangular shape. In the formation pattern A, as shown in FIG. 8, the shrinkable yarns 21 and 22 are arranged in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, respectively. For this reason, basically, the decorative portion is formed in an oblique direction in accordance with the combined force of the force that contracts the shrinkable warp 21 and the force that contracts the shrinkable weft 22. However, when the woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern A is continuously arranged in the ground woven structure as shown in FIG. 13, a decorative portion along the arrangement direction is formed. The woven structure corresponding to a certain formation pattern A contracts so that a decorative portion is formed along the direction of another adjacent woven structure (woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern A). The woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern A will be referred to as a woven structure (A) here for convenience.

When the woven structures (A) are arranged in the vertical direction, the respective woven structures (A) contract in both the vertical direction and the horizontal direction. In this case, the shrinkable yarn 21 in the longitudinal direction is continuous and has a so-called escape place, so that the amount of shrinkage is small. On the other hand, the shrinkable wefts 22 in the horizontal direction are not directly related to the shrinkable wefts 22 of the other woven fabrics (A) adjacent in the longitudinal direction, and thus greatly contract as expected. Therefore, even if the woven structure (A) for forming the decorative portion in the oblique direction is arranged in the vertical direction, the woven structure (A) can be contracted in the horizontal direction to obtain the vertical decoration.

The same applies to the case where the woven structures (A) are arranged in the horizontal direction. In each of the woven fabrics (A) arranged side by side, the contraction type weft 22 has a clearance, so that the contraction amount is small. On the other hand, the shrinkable warp 21 is largely shrunk substantially as scheduled. Therefore, even if the woven structure (A) is arranged in the horizontal direction, the woven structure (A) can be shrunk in the vertical direction to obtain a decoration in the horizontal direction.

As described above, a rectangular decoration can be generated only by arranging the woven structures (A) corresponding to the decorative portions in the oblique direction in a rectangular shape. However, since the side in the vertical direction is slightly shrunk in the horizontal direction and the side in the horizontal direction is shrunk slightly in the vertical direction, the decoration may lack sharpness. However, it can be said that the rectangular decoration lacking sharpness exhibits a new design effect when viewed in reverse.

In FIG. 13B, the woven structures (A) are arranged in a triangular shape. Thereby, each woven structure (A) shrink | contracts so that the decoration part along the direction of another adjacent woven structure (A) may be produced | generated. In FIG. 13C, the woven structures (A) are arranged in a circular shape. Thereby, each woven structure (A) shrink | contracts so that the decoration part along the direction of another adjacent woven structure (A) may be produced | generated.

This embodiment, which is configured in this way, also has the same function and effect as the first embodiment. Furthermore, in the present embodiment, it is possible to obtain a decoration having an arbitrary shape by using only the formation pattern A for forming the decoration part in the oblique direction.

The third embodiment will be described with reference to FIG. In the first embodiment, a case has been described in which a decoration having an arbitrary shape is obtained using three types of formation patterns A to C. In the second embodiment, the case where an ornament having an arbitrary shape is obtained using only the formation pattern A has been described. In the third embodiment (this embodiment), an arbitrarily shaped decoration is obtained by using a larger number of formation patterns.

In this embodiment, as shown in FIG. 14, when forming the decoration in the vertical direction (Y direction), the woven structures corresponding to the formation pattern B are arranged in the vertical direction. Here, the woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern B is referred to as a woven structure (B). As described with reference to FIG. 9, the woven structure (B) has only the second jumping portion 22 </ b> J in which the shrinkable weft 22 slides on the predetermined number of warps 11 and 21. The fact that the woven structure (B) has only the jumping portion 21J of the shrinkable warp 21 and does not have the jumping portion 22J of the shrinkable weft 22 is expressed as (warp 0, weft 100). This indicates the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure which is a scratch structure. The unit of the numerical value is, for example, a percentage. A decoration extending in the vertical direction can be obtained by continuously arranging the plurality of woven structures (B) in the vertical direction.

When forming a decoration in the horizontal direction (X direction), the woven structures corresponding to the formation pattern C are arranged side by side in the horizontal direction. Here, the woven structure corresponding to the formation pattern C is referred to as a woven structure (C). As described in FIG. 10, the woven structure (C) has a first jumping portion 21 </ b> J in which the shrinkable warp 21 jumps over a predetermined number of wefts 12 and 22. The state in which the woven structure (C) has only the jumping portion 22J of the shrinkable weft 22 and does not have the jumping portion 21J of the shrinkable warp 21 is expressed as (warp 100, weft 0). The decoration extended in a horizontal direction can be obtained by arranging a some woven structure (C) continuously in the horizontal direction.

In a middle region between the vertical direction and the horizontal direction, a woven structure (A) in which the vertical jumping portion 21J and the horizontal jumping portion 22J are dispersedly arranged in accordance with the decoration forming direction is used. Here, for the sake of explanation, the upward direction in FIG. 14 is set to 0 degree as a reference, the right lateral direction is 90 degrees, the direct downward direction is 180 degrees, and the left lateral direction is 270 degrees.

In the range from an angle greater than 0 degree (> 0) to an angle less than 90 degrees (<90), a woven structure (A) including both the vertical jump portion 21J and the horizontal jump portion 22J is used. . When the angle in the direction in which the decoration is formed is 45 degrees, the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) is (warp 50, weft 50). In this embodiment, the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) gradually changes between (longitude 0, latitude 100) and (longitude 100, latitude 0) according to the angle in the forming direction.

The composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) may be changed for each predetermined angle such as 1 degree unit, 5 degree unit, and 10 degree unit. Or you may change the composition of the jump part of a woven structure (A) for every basic pattern of the woven structures 11 and 12 of a ground. For example, the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A) is (longitude 1, latitude 99), (longitude 2, latitude 98), (longitude 3, latitude 97), (longitude 4, latitude 96). . . It can be changed like (longitude 97, latitude 3), (longitude 98, latitude 2), (longitude 99, latitude 1). The composition change may be made coarser and may be changed to, for example, (longitude 10, latitude 90), (longitude 20, latitude 80), (longitude 30, latitude 70).

Range from an angle greater than 90 degrees (> 90) to an angle less than 180 degrees (<180), range from greater than 180 degrees (> 180) to an angle less than 270 degrees (<270), 270 degrees Similarly, the range from the larger angle (> 270) to the angle less than 0 degree (<0 = 360) gradually changes the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure (A).

This embodiment, which is configured in this way, also has the same function and effect as the first embodiment. Furthermore, in this embodiment, the composition of the interlaced portion of the woven structure having a scratch function is gradually changed step by step in accordance with the direction in which the decoration is formed, so that a finer decoration can be generated. As described in the first embodiment, the woven fabric 10 incorporates a decoration that appears when a specific process is applied as a configuration of the woven fabric itself. Therefore, even if the composition of the jumping portion is finely controlled according to the decoration forming direction as in this embodiment, the decoration is formed later by mechanically pressing the woven fabric or ironing the woven fabric. Compared to the case, the permanent decoration can be quickly generated.

In addition, this invention is not limited to the Example mentioned above. A person skilled in the art can make various additions and changes within the scope of the present invention. For example, the type of yarn to be contracted, the method for contracting the contracting yarn, the method for forming the interlaced portion, and the like can be determined as appropriate. Further, in the present embodiment, the configuration in which the shrinkable yarn is mixed in the ground woven structure has been described, but instead of this, a stretch structure made of the shrinkable yarn is provided on the ground woven structure. It may be configured. Furthermore, the various features described in the claims can be appropriately combined as necessary in addition to the explicit combination.

1: clothing, 5: decorative part, 10: woven fabric, 10A, 10B, 10C: woven structure, 11: warp, 12: weft, 21: shrinkable warp, 21J: jumping part, 22: shrinkable weft, 22J: Interleaving section, 23: contraction section, 110: design data generation device, 120: automatic loom

Claims (14)

Multiple warps,
A plurality of wefts intersecting with the plurality of warps,
Some of the plurality of warps are contraction-type warps that contract more in the length direction than other warps when a specific treatment is applied,
The shrinkable warp has a first jumping portion that jumps over a first predetermined number of adjacent wefts in at least one place in the length direction thereof.
A plurality of the first jumping portions are arranged in a predetermined first pattern;
Woven cloth.
Some of the plurality of wefts are contraction-type wefts that contract more in the length direction than other wefts when the specific processing is applied,
The shrinkable weft has a second jumping portion that jumps over a second predetermined number of adjacent warps in at least one place in the length direction thereof.
A plurality of the second jumping portions are arranged in a predetermined second pattern;
The woven fabric according to claim 1.
Having a woven texture of the ground obtained by crossing the other warp and the other weft,
The first predetermined number is set to a value larger than the number of the other warp yarns continuously jumping over the other weft yarns in the woven structure of the ground.
The woven fabric according to claim 2.
The second predetermined number is set to a value larger than the number in which the other wefts continuously jump over the other warps in the ground weave structure,
The woven fabric according to claim 3.
The first jumping portion is either a front side first jumping portion passing through the front side of the woven fabric or a back side first jumping portion passing through the back side of the woven fabric,
The second jumping portion is either a front side second jumping portion passing through the front side of the woven fabric or a back side second jumping portion passing through the back side of the woven fabric,
The front side first jumping portion is arranged in a predetermined front side first pattern included in the predetermined first pattern,
The back side first jumping portion is arranged in a predetermined back side first pattern included in the predetermined first pattern,
The front side second jumping portion is arranged in a predetermined front side second pattern included in the predetermined second pattern,
The back side second jumping portion is arranged in a predetermined back side second pattern included in the predetermined second pattern,
The woven fabric according to claim 4.
The predetermined front side first pattern and the predetermined back side first pattern are set so that the front side first jumping portion and the back side first jumping portion are close to each other,
The predetermined front side second pattern and the predetermined back side second pattern are set so that the front side second jump portion and the back side second jump portion are close to each other,
The woven fabric according to claim 5.
The plurality of shrink warps are arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the plurality of other warps,
The plurality of shrinkable wefts are arranged in a predetermined fourth pattern between the plurality of other wefts,
The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6.
When the specific treatment is applied, the shrinkable warp is contracted in the length direction larger than other warps to form a constant first shrinkage portion,
The contraction type weft forms a constant second contraction part by contracting in the length direction larger than other wefts when the specific processing is applied,
The woven fabric according to any one of claims 2 to 6.
By arranging a plurality of the first contraction portions continuously, a first broken line portion along the weft direction is formed,
By arranging a plurality of the second contraction portions continuously, a second broken line portion along the warp direction is formed,
By arranging the plurality of first shrinkage portions and the plurality of second shrinkage portions in a predetermined direction, a third broken line portion is formed along an oblique direction between the weft direction and the warp direction.
The woven fabric according to claim 8.
The first contraction part and the second contraction part can be expanded and contracted according to an external force.
The woven fabric according to claim 9.
Between the plurality of warp yarns, at least one or more first jumping portions are formed that jump over the shrinkage-type warp yarn that contracts more than other warp yarns when the specific processing is applied, and the adjacent first predetermined number of weft yarns. Arranged in a predetermined first pattern,
Between the plurality of wefts, at least one or more second jumping portions that jump over the adjacent second predetermined number of warps are formed as shrinkable wefts that contract more than other wefts when the specific processing is applied. Arranged in a predetermined second pattern,
A method of manufacturing a woven fabric.
A first structure woven from a plurality of warps and a plurality of wefts intersecting with the plurality of warps;
A second structure formed of a plurality of contraction type warps and a plurality of contraction type wefts, wherein the second structure is overlapped by being woven into the first structure;
In the contraction type warp, a first jumping portion that jumps over a first predetermined number of adjacent wefts is arranged in a first pattern,
In the contraction type weft, a second jumping portion that jumps over a second predetermined number of adjacent warps is arranged in a second pattern,
The shrinkable warp is formed to contract in the length direction larger than the warp when a specific process is applied, thereby forming a first contracted portion against the restoring force of the first structure,
The contraction type weft forms a second contraction part against the restoring force of the first structure by contracting in the length direction larger than the weft when the specific processing is applied,
Woven cloth.
The contraction type warp is arranged in a predetermined third pattern between the plurality of warps,
The contraction type wefts are arranged in a predetermined fourth pattern between the plurality of wefts.
The woven fabric according to claim 12.
The first jump portion and the second jump portion are formed so as to be located on at least one or both of the front side and the back side of the first structure,
The woven fabric according to claim 13.

Images