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WO2015155639A1 - A gel-like agarose admixture for intermediate cosmetics product - Google Patents

A gel-like agarose admixture for intermediate cosmetics product Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015155639A1
WO2015155639A1 PCT/IB2015/052406 IB2015052406W WO2015155639A1 WO 2015155639 A1 WO2015155639 A1 WO 2015155639A1 IB 2015052406 W IB2015052406 W IB 2015052406W WO 2015155639 A1 WO2015155639 A1 WO 2015155639A1
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Prior art keywords
agarose
oil
vitamin
admixture
aqueous solution
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PCT/IB2015/052406
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French (fr)
Inventor
Leonid Lurya
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Red Gold Agarose Corp
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Red Gold Agarose Corp
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042Gels
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the present invention pertains to a method and composition of a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, more specifically this invention provides a gel-like agarose admixture as an intermediate cosmetics product.
  • cosmetic bases are known for use in cosmetic compositions, such as liquids, creams, gels and lotions.
  • these cosmetic bases are formed as emulsions (e.g., water-in- oil, oil-in-water, triple emulsions, microemulsions) to permit the delivery of water and oils to the skin, hair, nails or other surface to be treated.
  • Polysaccharides such as agaroses are widely used materials in the life science and biology fields. They can be used as substrates for electrophoresis or as a capture or chromatography media, either directly as a size exclusion material or through the bonding of various capture ligands, such as Protein A to their surfaces or pores.
  • Agarose also can have high gel strength at low concentration, thus providing gel networks with high water content.
  • the natural agarose polymer contains charged groups, such as pyruvate and sulphate.
  • the agarose polysaccharide also contains uncharged methyl groups.
  • the extent of natural methylation is directly proportional to the gelling temperature.
  • synthetically methylated agaroses have lower, rather than higher, gelling temperatures, and the degree of synthetic methylation is inversely proportional to the melting temperature.
  • the natural polymer is modified in order to obtain agarose with different melting and gelling temperatures.
  • the sulphate and pyruvate groups are reduced in order to obtain uncharged polymer.
  • the charged groups can be substituted with hydroxyethyl or vinyl (allyl) groups to the various extents in order to obtain agarose with low melting temperature. Therefore, there is long felt and unmet need to provide agarose based suspensions having an improved texture and more pleasant skin feel .
  • the admixture characterized by a cross-linked network of agarose-agarose comprising the hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of the agarose-agarose. It is another object of the present invention to provide a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, comprising a hydrophobic substance and aqueous solution of agarose; wherein the hydrophobic substance is admixed with the aqueous solution of agarose in a functionalized cross-linked network ; further wherein when the hydrophobic substance and the aqueous solution of agarose is heated to a temperature range of about 50-70°C the hydrophobic substance is suspended in a network of the aqueous agarose .
  • the gel-like admixture additionally comprising at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, thickeners, preservatives, humectants, consistency factors, antioxidants, UV blockers, vitamins, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrance, active agents, plant extracts, coloring agents, aesthetics enhancers, vegetable oils, animal oils and fats, minerals, proteins, seaweed extracts, and any combination thereof.
  • Johnswort stem cells, sugar cane juice, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, sweet orange oil, tea tree, thyme, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tribehenin, turmeric ubiquinone, ulva lactuca ,vanilla, vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin B factor (Inositol), vitamin B factor (Niacin B3), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin C (citric acid), vitamin C (ester C), vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), vitamin D , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), walnut extract, walnut powder, watercress, wheat germ, wheat protein, white tea, wild thyme, wild yam root, willow bark, witch hazel, xanthan gum, ylang ylang, yucca extract, zingiber zerumbet, zinigiber officinal
  • the method additionally comprising step of heating the aqueous solution of agarose with the hydrophobic substance to a temperature in the range of about 50-70°C thereby forming a cross-linked network of agarose-agarose comprising the hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of the agarose-agarose.
  • the method additionally comprising step admixing at least one ingredient to produce the gellike agarose admixture selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, thickeners, preservatives, humectants, consistency factors, antioxidants, UV blockers, vitamins, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrance, active agents, plant extracts, coloring agents, aesthetics enhancers, vegetable oils, animal oils and fats, minerals,
  • Johnswort stem cells, sugar cane juice, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, sweet orange oil, tea tree, thyme, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tribehenin, turmeric ubiquinone, ulva lactuca ,vanilla, vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin B factor (Inositol), vitamin B factor (Niacin B3), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin C (citric acid), vitamin C (ester C), vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), vitamin D , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), walnut extract, walnut powder, watercress, wheat germ, wheat protein, white tea, wild thyme, wild yam root, willow bark, witch hazel, xanthan gum, ylang ylang, yucca extract, zingiber zerumbet, zinigiber officinal
  • Fig. 1 illustrates a flow chart of a method of preparing a gel-like agarose admixture of the present invention.
  • the present invention provides a unique agarose cosmetic composition or vehicle having improved properties for cosmetics applications comprising aqueous solution of agarose and a hydrophobic substance.
  • the agarose in water solution and the hydrophobic substance are admixed to form an agarose gel-like admixture or matrix having an improved texture and more pleasant skin feel.
  • the agarose gel-like admixture is provided as an intermediate cosmetics product for skin, hair, nails or other surfaces to be treated.
  • the term "cosmetic" is as defined under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Actl sec. 201 (i) as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, repeating or altering the appearance of the cosmetic composition.
  • X refers to a range 25% less than to 25% more than of X (X + 25%), at times X + 20%, X + 15% and preferably X + 10.
  • the present invention provides a gel-like agarose admixture comprising an aqueous solution of agarose as a continuous phase and a hydrophobic substance as a dispersed phase.
  • the aqueous solution of agarose comprises agarose particles mixed with the hydrophobic substance e.g a water immiscible phase forming a gel-like agarose three-dimensional cross- linked network comprising a hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose-agarose.
  • the cross-linked network structure reduces the intrastrand hydrogen bonds, resulting in lower melting and setting temperature than standard agaroses, thereby forming oil droplets in between the network of the agarose bonds.
  • the entire system is cooled below the gel point of agarose and the oil droplets trapped in between the network of the agarose hydrogen bonds forms the gellike agarose admixture.
  • the gel-like agarose admixture is a dispersion of molecules of a liquid within a solid in which the solid is the continuous phase and the liquid is the discontinuous phase.
  • the gel-like agarose admixture comprises an agarose polymer in water resulting a solution of about 95-99.9 wt % of water and more preferably approximately 98-99.9%wt of water, thereby imparting skin feel to cosmetics products.
  • This matrix functions like an emulsion to deliver water and oil to the skin, hair, nails or other surface to be treated.
  • the present invention further provides a method for preparing a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications.
  • Reference in now made to Figure 1 which presents a flow chart of the method for preparing a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications.
  • the gel-like agarose admixture is prepared by the following steps:
  • admixture is not homogeneous thus the admixture is not uniform, in one color or in the same form , additional amount of agarose solution droplets or water-immiscible/oil phase droplets, based on the amount of agarose solution, is admixed to the continues phase respectively , according to the steps described in step iv.
  • the admixture is further evaluated and when a desired gel shape physical appearance (e.g viscosity) and visual appearance are achieved the mixture is cooled down to a room temperature forming a gel-like agarose admixture.
  • the hardness and the transparent of the agarose gel-like cosmetic admixture of the present invention can be adjusted by altering the blend amount of the water- immiscible/oil phase or the aqueous solution of agarose, respectively
  • the aqueous solution of agarose may comprise different types of agarose such as natural agarose, reduced agarose or a substituted agarose with low melting temperature.
  • the substituents is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, methyl, allyl ,acetyl substituents and any mixture thereof.
  • the aqueous solution of agarose is heated to temperature depends on the agarose concentration and the agarose type.
  • the agarose concentration is at least of about 0.1 wt %.
  • the agarose is preferably with a molecular weight of about 10,000 to about 1,500,000 daltons.
  • the rupture strength or hardness properties of the agarose gel-like admixture may be measured according to the following procedure:
  • the cosmetic transparent gel preparation was left to stand for one hour at 20°C, and then using a Rheometer , a plunger with a diameter of 3 mm may be used to press the sample at a mounting rate of 60 mm/minute, and the maximum stress value is measured and recorded as the rupture strength.
  • the transparency of the agarose gel-like admixture may be evaluated based on the ease of readability of a hiragana character "a" (size of character: 1 cm square) positioned 0.5 cm behind a glass bottle containing the sample, when viewed through the bottle.
  • the evaluation criteria for the transparency are listed below. A: the character can be read clearly B: the character appears clouded, but can be read
  • the Usability of the agarose gel-like admixture may be evaluated as followed: the sample was poured into a mold to prepare a stick-type cosmetic preparation, and following application of the preparation to the lips, the degree of disintegration at the application surface of the stick was evaluated.
  • the evaluation criteria are listed below:
  • the gel rigidity may be measured and determined according to Shore Durometer Hardness scale.
  • Durometer measures the depth of an indentation in the material created by a given force on a standardized presser foot. This depth is dependent on the hardness of the material, its viscoelastic properties, the shape of the presser foot, and the duration of the test.
  • ASTM D2240 durometers allows for a measurement of the initial hardness, or the indentation hardness after a given period of time. The basic test requires applying the force in a consistent manner, without shock, and measuring the hardness (depth of the indentation). If a timed hardness is desired, force is applied for the required time and then read.
  • the material under test should be a minimum of 6.4 mm
  • Table 1 below presents the ASTM D2240 standard which recognizes twelve different durometer scales using combinations of specific spring forces and indentor configurations. These scales are properly referred to as durometer types; i.e., a durometer type is specifically designed to determine a specific scale, and the scale does not exist separately from the durometer. The table below provides details for each of these types, with the exception of Type R.
  • the hydrophobic substance is selected from the group consisting of esters of the formula RCO-OR' wherein R and R' are each independently a Ci_ 2 5, preferably a C 4 _ 2 o straight or branched alkyl, alkenyl ,alkoxycarbonylalkyl ,alkylcarbonyloxyalkyl chains any any combination thereof.
  • the oil phase can be comprised of tri, di, and mono-glycerides of fatty acids.
  • the water phase with the the dissolved agarose is added to the hydrophobic substance as a water-immiscible phase in small portions under vigorous stirring in order to obtain a gel texture.
  • the volume ratio of the water phase to the water-immiscible phase is between40:60, and more specifically between 30:70, respectively.
  • the volume ratio of the water-immiscible phase to the agarose-water phase may further be in the range of about 0.01% of water-immiscible phase and 99.9% of agarose-water phase, respectively.
  • the agarose solution forms aqueous droplets within the water- immiscible phase under vigorous stirring.
  • the present invention further provides the step of adding water to the hydrophobic phase under vigorous stirring at 2000 rmp; this particular stirring rate produces particles with diameter of 20-50 ⁇ . In different embodiments of the present invention the particle diameter is smaller than 100 ⁇ .
  • the hydrophobic substance as a water- immiscible phase is added to the the water phase with the dissolved agarose in small portions under vigorous stirring in order to obtain a gel texture.
  • the volume ratio of the water- immiscible phase to the agarose-water phase is between 40:60, and more specifically between 30:70 respectively.
  • the volume ratio of the water-immiscible phase to the agarose-water phase may further be in the range of about 0.01% of water-immiscible phase and 99.9% of agarose-water phase respectively .
  • the agarose solution forms aqueous droplets within the water-immiscible phase under vigorous stirring.
  • the present invention further provides the step of adding water to the hydrophobic phase under vigorous stirring at 2000 rmp, this particular stirring rate produces particles with diameter of 20-50 ⁇ . In different embodiments of the present invention the particle diameter is smaller than about 100 ⁇ .
  • the gel-like agarose admixture may further comprises a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (PEG), synthetic polymers such as carbomer, vegetable gums, various waxes, petroleum jelly and a mixture thereof.
  • PEG 1500 is preferably added as a thickening agent.
  • the hydrophobic substance may be oil substance selected from the group consisting of natural plant oils such as sweet almond oil, wheat germ oil, and pomegranate oil and any combination thereof.
  • the the hydrophobic substance may further comprise additional triglycerides and surfactants.
  • the hydrophobic s substance may comprise a mixture of shea butter and almond oil.
  • the thickening agent is substituted for a co-solvent such as propylene glycol in order to dissolve shea butter in almond oil.
  • the co-solvents may be glycerin, isododecane, octyldodecanol or any other co-solvents that is commonly used in cosmetics products.
  • the hydrophobic substance may further comprise a oil emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan sequiolate, glycerol ether polymer, polyethylene glycol hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan tristearate ,lipophilic-hydrophilic block polymers and a mixture thereof.
  • a oil emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan sequiolate, glycerol ether polymer, polyethylene glycol hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan tristearate ,lipophilic-hydrophilic block polymers and a mixture thereof.
  • the emulsion can be passed through a hydrophobic microporous membrane by applying high pressure. The emulsion can be transferred through the membrane at a relatively high flow rate.
  • the membrane may be a glass membrane, which has been rendered hydrophobic by the chemical treatment according to the well-
  • the membrane is manufactured from an inherently hydrophobic material.
  • hydrophobic means that the membrane has sufficient hydrophobicity to allow passage of agarose droplets.
  • the membrane can have any type of pore structure such as a network pores or straight cylindrical pores perpendicular to the membrane surface.
  • the shape of the membrane can be tubular, hollow fiber, flat sheet or pleated sheet.
  • step (vi) emulsion temperature must be lowered slowly at the rate below 2 °C/min under slow stirring (50-200 rpm), such that agarose-in-water droplets are solidified into agarose-in- water gel particles.
  • adding PEG 1500 prevents sedimentation of the agarose-in-water gel particles.
  • the method of the present invention may optionaly compris the step of decreasing the agarose-in-water droplet size down to 10 ⁇ .
  • the reduction of the droplet size may be achieved by passing the pressurized hot emulsion (> 50 °C) through a minute orifice, i.e. by using high pressure homogenizer.
  • a sample of gel-like agarose admixture was prepared according to the following procedure: 1 preparation of aqueous solution of agarose: 0.5 g of agarose powder was added to 99.5 g distilled water forming a dispersion of water phase (30%) contained 0.5% of Agarose, the desperation was than heated according to the following regime: lOOw / 40s + 80w / 30s + 80w / 20 s (last heating 2-3 times to get a clear solution).
  • the deprecation was cooled down to a temperature in the range of about 65-70°C.
  • the aqueous solution of agarose was than mixed with the aqueous solution of the hydrophobic substance prepared above.
  • the hydrophobic substance phase: aqueous solution of agarose ration is in the range of 10-15 g of oil phase in 25-30 g of water phase whilst the oil phase is 30-35% of the admixture .
  • the admixture was further analyzed according to a desired gel shape, physical appearance (e.g viscosity) and the visual appearance thus when the admixture was homogeneous, with high levels of transparency, the admixture was cooled down to a room temperature forming a gel-like agarose admixture.
  • a sample of gel-like agarose admixture was prepared according to the following procedure: 1 preparation of aqueous solution of agarose:
  • the aqueous solution of agarose was than mixed with the aqueous solution of the hydrophobic substance prepared above.
  • the hydrophobic substance phase: aqueous solution of agarose ration is in the range of 10-15 g of oil phase in 25-30 g of water phase whilst the oil phase is 30-35% of the admixture .
  • the admixture was further analyzed according to a desired gel shape, physical appearance (e.g viscosity) and the visual appearance thus when the admixture was homogeneous, the admixture was cooled down to a room temperature forming a gel-like agarose admixture.
  • the embodiments were chosen and described to provide the best illustration of the principals of the invention and its practical application, and to enable one of ordinary skill in the art to utilize the invention in various embodiments and with various modifications as are suited to the particular use contemplated. All such modifications and variations are within the scope of the invention as determined by the appended claims when interpreted in accordance with the breadth they are fairly, legally, and equitably entitled.

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Abstract

A gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, comprising a hydrophobic substance; and, aqueous solution of agarose; said admixture characterized by a cross- linked network of agarose-agarose comprising said hydrophobic substance intercalated within said cross-linked network of said agarose-agarose.

Description

A GEL-LIKE AGAROSE ADMIXTURE FOR INTERMEDIATE COSMETICS PRODUCT
FIELD OF INVENTION
The present invention pertains to a method and composition of a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, more specifically this invention provides a gel-like agarose admixture as an intermediate cosmetics product.
BACKGROUND
Various cosmetic bases are known for use in cosmetic compositions, such as liquids, creams, gels and lotions. Traditionally, these cosmetic bases are formed as emulsions (e.g., water-in- oil, oil-in-water, triple emulsions, microemulsions) to permit the delivery of water and oils to the skin, hair, nails or other surface to be treated.
Polysaccharides such as agaroses are widely used materials in the life science and biology fields. They can be used as substrates for electrophoresis or as a capture or chromatography media, either directly as a size exclusion material or through the bonding of various capture ligands, such as Protein A to their surfaces or pores.
The main problem with polysaccharide solutions is the gelling behavior of the solution at lower temperatures thereby creating a gel of a fixed and rigid shape. This limits the range of applicability of these polymers especially in cosmetics applications and uses.
Agarose also can have high gel strength at low concentration, thus providing gel networks with high water content. The natural agarose polymer contains charged groups, such as pyruvate and sulphate. The agarose polysaccharide also contains uncharged methyl groups. The extent of natural methylation is directly proportional to the gelling temperature. Unexpectedly, synthetically methylated agaroses have lower, rather than higher, gelling temperatures, and the degree of synthetic methylation is inversely proportional to the melting temperature.
Commonly the natural polymer is modified in order to obtain agarose with different melting and gelling temperatures. Usually, the sulphate and pyruvate groups are reduced in order to obtain uncharged polymer. Furthermore, the charged groups can be substituted with hydroxyethyl or vinyl (allyl) groups to the various extents in order to obtain agarose with low melting temperature. Therefore, there is long felt and unmet need to provide agarose based suspensions having an improved texture and more pleasant skin feel .
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
It is one object of the present invention to provide a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, comprising:
(i) a hydrophobic substance; and,
(ii) aqueous solution of agarose;
The admixture characterized by a cross-linked network of agarose-agarose comprising the hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of the agarose-agarose. It is another object of the present invention to provide a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, comprising a hydrophobic substance and aqueous solution of agarose; wherein the hydrophobic substance is admixed with the aqueous solution of agarose in a functionalized cross-linked network ; further wherein when the hydrophobic substance and the aqueous solution of agarose is heated to a temperature range of about 50-70°C the hydrophobic substance is suspended in a network of the aqueous agarose .
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the hydrophobic substance is a water-immiscible phase and a dispersed phase and the aqueous solution of agarose is the continuous phase.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the admixture is a suspension is an intermediate cosmetics product.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the hydrophobic substance comprises oil droplets.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the aqueous solution of agarose comprises agarose particles less than about 100 μηι in diameter.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the agarose has a molecular weight of about 10,000 to 1,500,000 daltons. It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the aqueous solution of agarose comprising at most 99.9% of water. It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the aqueous solution of agarose comprising water preferably in the range of about 98-99.9% of water. It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the agarose is a natural unmodified polymer or a substituted agarose. It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the gel-like admixture complies with ASTM E 1490-03 skin feel analysis, which is separated into three main evaluation sections: evaluation of the product in a petri dish, pick-up evaluation, and rub out evaluation.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the gel-like admixture hardness is determined according to Durometer Shore Hardness Scale.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the gel-like admixture additionally comprising at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, thickeners, preservatives, humectants, consistency factors, antioxidants, UV blockers, vitamins, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrance, active agents, plant extracts, coloring agents, aesthetics enhancers, vegetable oils, animal oils and fats, minerals, proteins, seaweed extracts, and any combination thereof.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above gel-like agarose admixture, wherein the ingredient is selected from the group consisting of natural or synthetic ambergris, allantoin, almond meal, almond oil, aloe vera, alpha beta hydroxy acid complex, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), alpha lipoic acid, apricot kernel oil, arginine, arnica montana, ascorbic acid, avocado oil, awapuhi, azulene, babassu oil, baking soda, basil, beeswax, benzophenone-3, benzyl alcohol, beta carotene, beta glucan, birch leaf, black pepper, blue- green algae, butyrospermum parkii, calcium pantothenate, calendula, camellia sinensis (green tea) ,camellia sinensis (white tea), camphor ,cananga ordorata flower oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, caramel, cardamom ,carica papaya, carrot oil, castor oil, castor oil phosphate, castor wax, cedarwood, centella asciatica, cetyl alcohol, chamomile, chlorella, cider vinegar, citric acid ,citrus aurantium dulcis oil ,citrus limonum peel ,citrus medica limonum peel oil , clary sage ,cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoa butter, coconut milk ,coconut oil, coleus, collagen, colloidal oatmeal, coenzyme Q10, coriander , corn cob meal, cornstarch ,cotton, cucumber, d- alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), dehydroxanthan gum, dihydroxyacetone, DMAE ,echinacea, epsom salt, ester C, eucalyptus ,evening primrose oil ,fennel ,flax seed oil ,folic acid, frankincense, geranium maculatum oil, ginger , ginkgo biloba, ginseng ,glycerin, glycolic acid, gotu kola, grape seed oil ,grape skin extract ,grapefruit ,grapefruit (seed) extract ,green tea, ground oatmeal, hibiscus, honey,honeysuckle, hyaluronic acid ,hybrid safflower oil, hydrosol, hyssop, irish moss, isopropyl palmitate, jasmine oil, jojoba oil , jojoba wax ,kelp , kukui nut ,lactic acid, lanolinm, lavender, lavender hydrosol, lecithin, lecithin liposomes, lemon, lemon balm, lemon bioflavonoids, lemon peel, lemongrass, licorice, lime, linden flower, linum usitatissimum, macadamia nut oil ,malic acid, mandarin, mangifera indica, mango butter, mentha piperita, menthol, methylparaben, mulberry leaf, myrrh, nettle ,niacin - vitamin B factor, oak bark, oat kernel flour, oatmeal, octinoxate, otyl palmitate, olive oil, olive squalane, orange, orange blossom, orbignya oleifera (babassu) seed oil, orchid ,palm oil, palmarosa, panthenol, papain, papaya, passion fruit, peptides, peppermint, persea gratis sima, phenoxyethanol, pine, pineapple, pomegranate, potato starch modified, powdered milk ,pro- vitamin A, pro- vitamin B (biotin), pro- vitamin B5 (panthenol), pycnogenol, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice bran oil, rose flower, rose hips , rosemary, rosemary leaf, rosemary leaf oil, safflower oil, sage , salicylic acid, saw palmetto, sea kelp, sea salt, seaweed extract, sesame oil, shea butter, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hydroxide, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soy bean oil, soy lecithin , soy protein, squalane, St. Johnswort , stem cells, sugar cane juice, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, sweet orange oil, tea tree, thyme, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tribehenin, turmeric ubiquinone, ulva lactuca ,vanilla, vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin B factor (Inositol), vitamin B factor (Niacin B3), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin C (citric acid), vitamin C (ester C), vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), vitamin D , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), walnut extract, walnut powder, watercress, wheat germ, wheat protein, white tea, wild thyme, wild yam root, willow bark, witch hazel, xanthan gum, ylang ylang, yucca extract, zingiber zerumbet, zinigiber officinale and any mixture thereof.
It is another object of the present invention to provide a method of preparing a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, the method comprising steps of:
(i) providing an aqueous solution of agarose and a hydrophobic substance; and
(ii) admixing the aqueous solution of agarose with the hydrophobic substance;
wherein the method additionally comprising step of heating the aqueous solution of agarose with the hydrophobic substance to a temperature in the range of about 50-70°C thereby forming a cross-linked network of agarose-agarose comprising the hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of the agarose-agarose.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the step of admixing the aqueous solution of agarose with the hydrophobic substance by at least one of the following steps: (a) adding the aqueous solution of agarose in small portions to hydrophobic substance under vigorous stirring to obtain a agarose-agarose network comprising the hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose-agarose ; and,
(b) adding the hydrophobic substance in small portions to the aqueous solution of agarose under vigorous stirring to obtain a agarose-agarose network comprising the hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose-agarose.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the step of providing the aqueous solution of agarose and the hydrophobic substance volume in a ratio of approximately 40:60, respectively.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method additionally comprising step of performing a visual appearance test for determining the homogeneity of the admixture.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the step of performing a visual appearance test further followed by steps of:
(a) admixing the aqueous solution of agarose in small portions to the hydrophobic substance, or (b)admixing the hydrophobic substance in small portions to the aqueous solution of agarose.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the step of providing the aqueous solution of agarose and the hydrophobic substance volume in a ratio preferably between 30:70, respectively.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method additionally comprising step of forming a dispersed phase of the hydrophobic substance, within the aqueous solution of agarose as a continuous phase.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method additionally comprising step of forming the cross-linked network of the agarose- agarose as an intermediate cosmetics product.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the step of providing the aqueous solution of agarose additionally comprising steps of preparing an aqueous solution of agarose by dissolving agarose powder in hot water until complete dissolving the agarose.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method additionally comprising step of providing the agarose as a natural unmodified polymer, agarose with reduced acidic groups or as substituted agarose. It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the step of admixing additionally comprising steps of:
(i) adding water in small portions to the hydrophobic substance until complete dissolving of the agarose powder under vigorous stirring to obtain the network of the hydrophobic substance comprising oil droplets suspended in the aqueous solution of agarose; and
(ii) cooling down the network of the aqueous solution of agarose suspended in oil to a room temperature under slow stirring.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the dissolving agarose comprising step of providing agarose particles with diameter less than 100 μιη.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the dissolving agarose powder comprising step of of providing the agarose with a molecular weight of about 10,000 to 1,500,000 daltons.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method additionally comprising step of providing the aqueous solution of agarose comprising at most 99.9%wt of water.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method comprising steps of providing the gel-like agarose admixture complying with ASTM E 1490-03 skin feel analysis, which is separated into three main evaluation sections: evaluation of the product in a petri dish, pick-up evaluation, and rub out evaluation.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method additionally comprising step admixing at least one ingredient to produce the gellike agarose admixture selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, thickeners, preservatives, humectants, consistency factors, antioxidants, UV blockers, vitamins, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrance, active agents, plant extracts, coloring agents, aesthetics enhancers, vegetable oils, animal oils and fats, minerals, proteins, seaweed extracts, and any combination thereof.
It is another object of the present invention to disclose the detailed above method, wherein the method additionally comprising steps of providing at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of natural or synthetic ambergris, allantoin, almond meal, almond oil, aloe vera, alpha beta hydroxy acid complex, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), alpha lipoic acid, apricot kernel oil, arginine, arnica montana, ascorbic acid, avocado oil, awapuhi, azulene, babassu oil, baking soda, basil, beeswax, benzophenone-3, benzyl alcohol, beta carotene, beta glucan, birch leaf, black pepper, blue-green algae, butyrospermum parkii, calcium pantothenate, calendula, camellia sinensis (green tea) ,camellia sinensis (white tea), camphor ,cananga ordorata flower oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, caramel, cardamom ,carica papaya, carrot oil, castor oil, castor oil phosphate, castor wax, cedarwood, centella asciatica, cetyl alcohol, chamomile, chlorella, cider vinegar, citric acid ,citrus aurantium dulcis oil ,citrus limonum peel ,citrus medica limonum peel oil , clary sage ,cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoa butter, coconut milk ,coconut oil, coleus, collagen, colloidal oatmeal, coenzyme Q10, coriander , corn cob meal, cornstarch ,cotton, cucumber, d-alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), dehydroxanthan gum, dihydroxyacetone, DMAE ,echinacea, epsom salt, ester C, eucalyptus ,evening primrose oil ,fennel ,flax seed oil ,folic acid, frankincense, geranium maculatum oil, ginger , ginkgo biloba, ginseng ,glycerin, glycolic acid, gotu kola, grape seed oil ,grape skin extract ,grapefruit ,grapefruit (seed) extract ,green tea, ground oatmeal, hibiscus, honey,honeysuckle, hyaluronic acid ,hybrid safflower oil, hydrosol, hyssop, irish moss,isopropyl palmitate, jasmine oil, jojoba oil , jojoba wax ,kelp , kukui nut ,lactic acid, lanolinm, lavender, lavender hydrosol, lecithin, lecithin liposomes, lemon, lemon balm, lemon bioflavonoids, lemon peel, lemongrass, licorice, lime, linden flower, linum usitatissimum, macadamia nut oil ,malic acid, mandarin, mangifera indica, mango butter, mentha piperita, menthol, methylparaben, mulberry leaf, myrrh, nettle ,niacin - vitamin B factor, oak bark, oat kernel flour, oatmeal, octinoxate, otyl palmitate, olive oil, olive squalane, orange, orange blossom, orbignya oleifera (babassu) seed oil, orchid ,palm oil, palmarosa, panthenol, papain, papaya, passion fruit, peptides, peppermint, persea gratissima, phenoxyethanol, pine, pineapple, pomegranate, potato starch modified, powdered milk ,pro- vitamin A, pro-vitamin B (biotin), pro-vitamin B5 (panthenol), pycnogenol, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice bran oil, rose flower, rose hips , rosemary, rosemary leaf, rosemary leaf oil, safflower oil, sage , salicylic acid, saw palmetto, sea kelp, sea salt, seaweed extract, sesame oil, shea butter, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hydroxide, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soy bean oil, soy lecithin , soy protein, squalane, St. Johnswort , stem cells, sugar cane juice, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, sweet orange oil, tea tree, thyme, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tribehenin, turmeric ubiquinone, ulva lactuca ,vanilla, vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin B factor (Inositol), vitamin B factor (Niacin B3), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin C (citric acid), vitamin C (ester C), vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), vitamin D , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), walnut extract, walnut powder, watercress, wheat germ, wheat protein, white tea, wild thyme, wild yam root, willow bark, witch hazel, xanthan gum, ylang ylang, yucca extract, zingiber zerumbet, zinigiber officinale and any mixture thereof. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
In order to understand the invention and to see how it may be implemented in practice, a few preferred embodiments will now be described, by way of non-limiting example only, with reference to be accompanying drawings, in which:
Fig. 1 illustrates a flow chart of a method of preparing a gel-like agarose admixture of the present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The following description is provided so as to enable any person skilled in the art to make use of the invention and sets forth the best modes contemplated by the inventor of carrying out this invention. Various modifications, however, will remain apparent to those skilled in the art, since the generic principles of the present invention have been defined specifically to provide product and method of the invention described herein.
The present invention provides a unique agarose cosmetic composition or vehicle having improved properties for cosmetics applications comprising aqueous solution of agarose and a hydrophobic substance. The agarose in water solution and the hydrophobic substance are admixed to form an agarose gel-like admixture or matrix having an improved texture and more pleasant skin feel. The agarose gel-like admixture is provided as an intermediate cosmetics product for skin, hair, nails or other surfaces to be treated.
For the purposes of the present invention, as used herein the term "cosmetic " is as defined under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Actl sec. 201 (i) as articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, repeating or altering the appearance of the cosmetic composition.
As used herein the term "about X" or "approximately X" or "substantially X" refers to a range 25% less than to 25% more than of X (X + 25%), at times X + 20%, X + 15% and preferably X + 10.
The present invention provides a gel-like agarose admixture comprising an aqueous solution of agarose as a continuous phase and a hydrophobic substance as a dispersed phase. The aqueous solution of agarose comprises agarose particles mixed with the hydrophobic substance e.g a water immiscible phase forming a gel-like agarose three-dimensional cross- linked network comprising a hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose-agarose.
The cross-linked network structure, disrupted by elevated temperatures, reduces the intrastrand hydrogen bonds, resulting in lower melting and setting temperature than standard agaroses, thereby forming oil droplets in between the network of the agarose bonds. Once the droplets have been formed, the entire system is cooled below the gel point of agarose and the oil droplets trapped in between the network of the agarose hydrogen bonds forms the gellike agarose admixture.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the gel-like agarose admixture is a dispersion of molecules of a liquid within a solid in which the solid is the continuous phase and the liquid is the discontinuous phase. The gel-like agarose admixture comprises an agarose polymer in water resulting a solution of about 95-99.9 wt % of water and more preferably approximately 98-99.9%wt of water, thereby imparting skin feel to cosmetics products. This matrix functions like an emulsion to deliver water and oil to the skin, hair, nails or other surface to be treated.
The present invention further provides a method for preparing a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications. Reference in now made to Figure 1 which presents a flow chart of the method for preparing a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications. The gel-like agarose admixture is prepared by the following steps:
i. preparing an aqueous solution of agarose by adding agarose powder into water and heating the water until complete dissolving of agarose(lOl) ,
ii. cooling the aqueous solution of agarose to about 50-70 °C(102),
iii. providing a preheated up to 50-70 °C water-immiscible/oil phase(103),
iv. admixing the cooled agarose solution with the the water- immiscible/oil phase(104) by at least one of the following steps:
(1) adding the cooled agarose solution in small portions to the water- immiscible/oil phase under vigorous stirring to obtain a agarose-agarose network comprising hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose- agarose(104A) , and
(2) adding the water-immiscible/oil phase in small portions to the cooled agarose solution under vigorous stirring to obtain a agarose-agarose network comprising hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose- agarose(104B). v. cooling the admixture down to a room temperature under slow stirring(105) thereby, forming a gel-like agarose admixture .
vi. performing a visual appearance test and determining the homogeneity of the admixture(106).
If the admixture is not homogeneous thus the admixture is not uniform, in one color or in the same form , additional amount of agarose solution droplets or water-immiscible/oil phase droplets, based on the amount of agarose solution, is admixed to the continues phase respectively , according to the steps described in step iv. The admixture is further evaluated and when a desired gel shape physical appearance (e.g viscosity) and visual appearance are achieved the mixture is cooled down to a room temperature forming a gel-like agarose admixture. Furthermore, the hardness and the transparent of the agarose gel-like cosmetic admixture of the present invention can be adjusted by altering the blend amount of the water- immiscible/oil phase or the aqueous solution of agarose, respectively
In another embodiment of the present invention the aqueous solution of agarose may comprise different types of agarose such as natural agarose, reduced agarose or a substituted agarose with low melting temperature. The substituents is selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, methyl, allyl ,acetyl substituents and any mixture thereof. In another embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous solution of agarose is heated to temperature depends on the agarose concentration and the agarose type.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the agarose concentration is at least of about 0.1 wt %. The agarose is preferably with a molecular weight of about 10,000 to about 1,500,000 daltons.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the rupture strength or hardness properties of the agarose gel-like admixture may be measured according to the following procedure:
the cosmetic transparent gel preparation was left to stand for one hour at 20°C, and then using a Rheometer ,a plunger with a diameter of 3 mm may be used to press the sample at a mounting rate of 60 mm/minute, and the maximum stress value is measured and recorded as the rupture strength.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the transparency of the agarose gel-like admixture may be evaluated based on the ease of readability of a hiragana character "a" (size of character: 1 cm square) positioned 0.5 cm behind a glass bottle containing the sample, when viewed through the bottle. The evaluation criteria for the transparency are listed below. A: the character can be read clearly B: the character appears clouded, but can be read
C: the existence of the character is apparent, but the character is unreadable
D: the existence of the character cannot be confirmed
In another embodiment of the present invention, the Usability of the agarose gel-like admixture may be evaluated as followed: the sample was poured into a mold to prepare a stick-type cosmetic preparation, and following application of the preparation to the lips, the degree of disintegration at the application surface of the stick was evaluated. The evaluation criteria are listed below:
A: no surface disintegration
B: almost no surface disintegration
C: slight surface disintegration
D: very noticeable surface disintegration
In another embodiment of the present invention, the gel rigidity may be measured and determined according to Shore Durometer Hardness scale. Durometer, measures the depth of an indentation in the material created by a given force on a standardized presser foot. This depth is dependent on the hardness of the material, its viscoelastic properties, the shape of the presser foot, and the duration of the test. ASTM D2240 durometers allows for a measurement of the initial hardness, or the indentation hardness after a given period of time. The basic test requires applying the force in a consistent manner, without shock, and measuring the hardness (depth of the indentation). If a timed hardness is desired, force is applied for the required time and then read. The material under test should be a minimum of 6.4 mm
(0.25 inches) thick.
Table 1 below presents the ASTM D2240 standard which recognizes twelve different durometer scales using combinations of specific spring forces and indentor configurations. These scales are properly referred to as durometer types; i.e., a durometer type is specifically designed to determine a specific scale, and the scale does not exist separately from the durometer. The table below provides details for each of these types, with the exception of Type R.
Table 1
Durometer
Configuration Diameter Extension Spring force
Type 35° truncated cone 2.54 mm 822 gf
A 1.40 mm (0.055 in)
(frustum) (0.100 in) (8.06 N)
35° truncated cone 2.54 mm 4,536 gf
C 1.40 mm (0.055 in)
(frustum) (0.100 in) (44.48 N)
2.54 mm 4,536 gf
D 30° cone 1.40 mm (0.055 in)
(0.100 in) (44.48 N)
2.54 mm 822 gf
B 30° cone 1.40 mm (0.055 in)
(0.100 in) (8.06 N)
1.25 mm 78 gf
M 30° cone 0.79 mm (0.031 in)
(0.049 in) (0.76 N)
2.5 mm (0.098 in) 2.54 mm 822 gf
E 4.50 mm (0.177 in)
spherical radius (0.100 in) (8.06 N)
1.20 mm (0.047 in) 2.54 mm 822 gf
0 2.40 mm (0.094 in)
spherical radius (0.100 in) (8.06 N)
1.20 mm (0.047 in) 2.54 mm 113 gf
00 2.40 mm (0.094 in)
spherical radius (0.100 in) (1.11 N)
1.20 mm (0.047 in) 2.54 mm 4,536 gf
DO 2.40 mm (0.094 in)
spherical radius (0.100 in) (44.48 N)
6.35 mm (0.250 in) 10.7 mm (0.42 in) - 2.54 mm 113 gf
000
spherical radius 11.6 mm (0.46 in) (0.100 in) (1.11 N)
10.7 mm (0.42 in) 5.0 mm 197 gf
000-S 11.9 mm (0.47 in)
radius disk (0.20 in) (1.93 N)
In another embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic substance is selected from the group consisting of esters of the formula RCO-OR' wherein R and R' are each independently a Ci_25, preferably a C4_2o straight or branched alkyl, alkenyl ,alkoxycarbonylalkyl ,alkylcarbonyloxyalkyl chains any any combination thereof. In some other embodiments of the present invention the oil phase can be comprised of tri, di, and mono-glycerides of fatty acids.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the water phase with the the dissolved agarose is added to the hydrophobic substance as a water-immiscible phase in small portions under vigorous stirring in order to obtain a gel texture. The volume ratio of the water phase to the water-immiscible phase is between40:60, and more specifically between 30:70, respectively. The volume ratio of the water-immiscible phase to the agarose-water phase may further be in the range of about 0.01% of water-immiscible phase and 99.9% of agarose-water phase, respectively. The agarose solution forms aqueous droplets within the water- immiscible phase under vigorous stirring. The present invention further provides the step of adding water to the hydrophobic phase under vigorous stirring at 2000 rmp; this particular stirring rate produces particles with diameter of 20-50 μιη. In different embodiments of the present invention the particle diameter is smaller than 100 μιη.
In another embodiment of the present invention, the hydrophobic substance as a water- immiscible phase is added to the the water phase with the dissolved agarose in small portions under vigorous stirring in order to obtain a gel texture. The volume ratio of the water- immiscible phase to the agarose-water phase is between 40:60, and more specifically between 30:70 respectively. The volume ratio of the water-immiscible phase to the agarose-water phase may further be in the range of about 0.01% of water-immiscible phase and 99.9% of agarose-water phase respectively . The agarose solution forms aqueous droplets within the water-immiscible phase under vigorous stirring. The present invention further provides the step of adding water to the hydrophobic phase under vigorous stirring at 2000 rmp, this particular stirring rate produces particles with diameter of 20-50 μιη. In different embodiments of the present invention the particle diameter is smaller than about 100 μιη. In one of the embodiments of the present invention the gel-like agarose admixture may further comprises a thickening agent selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (PEG), synthetic polymers such as carbomer, vegetable gums, various waxes, petroleum jelly and a mixture thereof. The thickening agent may be added to the water- immiscible phase for preventing subsequent sedimentation of agarose-in-water particles in the suspension. In another embodiment PEG 1500 is preferably added as a thickening agent. In another embodiment of the present invention the hydrophobic substance may be oil substance selected from the group consisting of natural plant oils such as sweet almond oil, wheat germ oil, and pomegranate oil and any combination thereof. The the hydrophobic substance may further comprise additional triglycerides and surfactants.
In another embodiments of the present invention, the hydrophobic s substance may comprise a mixture of shea butter and almond oil. In this particular embodiment the thickening agent is substituted for a co-solvent such as propylene glycol in order to dissolve shea butter in almond oil. Furthermore, the co-solvents may be glycerin, isododecane, octyldodecanol or any other co-solvents that is commonly used in cosmetics products.
In another embodiments of the present invention, the hydrophobic substance may further comprise a oil emulsifier selected from the group consisting of sorbitan sequiolate, glycerol ether polymer, polyethylene glycol hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan tristearate ,lipophilic-hydrophilic block polymers and a mixture thereof. In another embodiment the emulsion can be passed through a hydrophobic microporous membrane by applying high pressure. The emulsion can be transferred through the membrane at a relatively high flow rate. In some embodiments the membrane may be a glass membrane, which has been rendered hydrophobic by the chemical treatment according to the well-known methods. In another embodiment the membrane is manufactured from an inherently hydrophobic material. The term hydrophobic means that the membrane has sufficient hydrophobicity to allow passage of agarose droplets. The membrane can have any type of pore structure such as a network pores or straight cylindrical pores perpendicular to the membrane surface. The shape of the membrane can be tubular, hollow fiber, flat sheet or pleated sheet.
In step (vi) emulsion temperature must be lowered slowly at the rate below 2 °C/min under slow stirring (50-200 rpm), such that agarose-in-water droplets are solidified into agarose-in- water gel particles. As mentioned above, adding PEG 1500 prevents sedimentation of the agarose-in-water gel particles.
The method of the present invention may optionaly compris the step of decreasing the agarose-in-water droplet size down to 10 μιη. The reduction of the droplet size may be achieved by passing the pressurized hot emulsion (> 50 °C) through a minute orifice, i.e. by using high pressure homogenizer.
Example 1
A sample of gel-like agarose admixture was prepared according to the following procedure: 1 preparation of aqueous solution of agarose: 0.5 g of agarose powder was added to 99.5 g distilled water forming a dispersion of water phase (30%) contained 0.5% of Agarose, the desperation was than heated according to the following regime: lOOw / 40s + 80w / 30s + 80w / 20 s (last heating 2-3 times to get a clear solution).
The deprecation was cooled down to a temperature in the range of about 65-70°C.
2) Preparation of aqueous solution of hydrophobic substance:
Preparing an oil phase composing of Sweet Almond OihWheat Germ Oil in a ration of about 2: 1, respectively or Sweat Almond Oil: Wheat Germ Oil: Avocado Oil in a ration of about 3:2: 1, respectively. The oil phase was heated to a temperature in the range of about 65- 70°C.
3) Preparation of the gel-like agarose admixture:
The aqueous solution of agarose was than mixed with the aqueous solution of the hydrophobic substance prepared above. The hydrophobic substance phase: aqueous solution of agarose ration is in the range of 10-15 g of oil phase in 25-30 g of water phase whilst the oil phase is 30-35% of the admixture .
The admixture was further analyzed according to a desired gel shape, physical appearance (e.g viscosity) and the visual appearance thus when the admixture was homogeneous, with high levels of transparency, the admixture was cooled down to a room temperature forming a gel-like agarose admixture.
Example 2
A sample of gel-like agarose admixture was prepared according to the following procedure: 1 preparation of aqueous solution of agarose:
1) The aqueous solution of agarose was prepared according to Example 1.
2) Preparation of aqueous solution of hydrophobic substance:
Preparing an oil phase composing of Sweat Almond OihWheat Germ OihBees Wax in a ration of about 4:2: 1, respectively or Sweet Almond OihWheat Germ OihAvocado OihBees Wax in a ration of about 3:2: 1: 1, respectively .The oil phase was heated to a temperature in the range of about 65-70°C.
3) Preparation of the gel-like agarose admixture:
The aqueous solution of agarose was than mixed with the aqueous solution of the hydrophobic substance prepared above. The hydrophobic substance phase: aqueous solution of agarose ration is in the range of 10-15 g of oil phase in 25-30 g of water phase whilst the oil phase is 30-35% of the admixture .
The admixture was further analyzed according to a desired gel shape, physical appearance (e.g viscosity) and the visual appearance thus when the admixture was homogeneous, the admixture was cooled down to a room temperature forming a gel-like agarose admixture. The embodiments were chosen and described to provide the best illustration of the principals of the invention and its practical application, and to enable one of ordinary skill in the art to utilize the invention in various embodiments and with various modifications as are suited to the particular use contemplated. All such modifications and variations are within the scope of the invention as determined by the appended claims when interpreted in accordance with the breadth they are fairly, legally, and equitably entitled.

Claims

A gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, comprising
i. a hydrophobic substance; and,
ii. aqueous solution of agarose; said admixture characterized by a cross-linked network of agarose-agarose comprising said hydrophobic substance intercalated within said cross-linked network of said agarose-agarose.
A gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, comprising a hydrophobic substance and aqueous solution of agarose: wherein said hydrophobic substance is admixed with said aqueous solution of agarose in a functionalized crosslinked network; further wherein when said hydrophobic substance and said aqueous solution of agarose is heated to a temperature range of about 50-70°C said hydrophobic substance is suspended in a network of said aqueous agarose.
The gel-like agarose admixture according to claim 1, wherein said hydrophobic substance is a water-immiscible phase and a dispersed phase and said aqueous solution of agarose is the continuous phase.
The gel-like agarose admixture according to claim 1, wherein said admixture is a suspension is an intermediate cosmetics product.
The matrix according to claim 2, wherein said hydrophobic substance comprises oil droplets.
The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said aqueous solution of agarose comprises agarose particles less than about 100 μιη in diameter. The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said agarose has a molecular weight of about 10,000 to 1,500,000 daltons.
The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said aqueous solution of agarose comprising at most 99.9% of water.
The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said aqueous solution of agarose comprising water preferably in the range of about 98-99.9% of water.
The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said agarose is a natural unmodified polymer or a substituted agarose.
11. The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said gel-like admixture complies with ASTM E 1490-03 skin feel analysis, which is separated into three main evaluation sections: evaluation of the product in a petri dish, pick-up evaluation, and rub out evaluation.
12. The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said gel-like admixture hardness is determined according to Durometer Shore Hardness Scale.
13. The gel-like agarose admixture according to claims 1 to 2, wherein said gel-like admixture additionally comprising at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, thickeners, preservatives, humectants, consistency factors, antioxidants, UV blockers, vitamins, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrance, active agents, plant extracts, coloring agents, aesthetics enhancers, vegetable oils, animal oils and fats, minerals, proteins, seaweed extracts, and any combination thereof.
14. The gel-like agarose admixture according to claim 13, wherein said ingredient is selected from the group consisting of natural or synthetic ambergris, allantoin, almond meal, almond oil, aloe vera, alpha beta hydroxy acid complex, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), alpha lipoic acid, apricot kernel oil, arginine, arnica montana, ascorbic acid, avocado oil, awapuhi, azulene, babassu oil, baking soda, basil, beeswax, benzophenone-3, benzyl alcohol, beta carotene, beta glucan, birch leaf, black pepper, blue-green algae, butyrospermum parkii, calcium pantothenate, calendula, camellia sinensis (green tea) ,camellia sinensis (white tea), camphor ,cananga ordorata flower oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, caramel, cardamom ,carica papaya, carrot oil, castor oil, castor oil phosphate, castor wax, cedarwood, centella asciatica, cetyl alcohol, chamomile, chlorella, cider vinegar, citric acid ,citrus aurantium dulcis oil ,citrus limonum peel ,citrus medica limonum peel oil , clary sage ,cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoa butter, coconut milk ,coconut oil, coleus, collagen, colloidal oatmeal, coenzyme Q10, coriander , corn cob meal, cornstarch ,cotton, cucumber, d-alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), dehydroxanthan gum, dihydroxyacetone, DMAE ,echinacea, epsom salt, ester C, eucalyptus ,evening primrose oil ,fennel ,flax seed oil ,folic acid, frankincense, geranium maculatum oil, ginger , ginkgo biloba, ginseng ,glycerin, glycolic acid, gotu kola, grape seed oil ,grape skin extract ,grapefruit ,grapefruit (seed) extract ,green tea, ground oatmeal, hibiscus, honey,honeysuckle, hyaluronic acid ,hybrid safflower oil, hydrosol, hyssop, irish moss, isopropyl palmitate, jasmine oil, jojoba oil , jojoba wax ,kelp , kukui nut ,lactic acid, lanolinm, lavender, lavender hydrosol, lecithin, lecithin liposomes, lemon, lemon balm, lemon bioflavonoids, lemon peel, lemongrass, licorice, lime, linden flower, linum usitatissimum, macadamia nut oil ,malic acid, mandarin, mangifera indica, mango butter, mentha piperita, menthol, methylparaben, mulberry leaf, myrrh, nettle ,niacin - vitamin B factor, oak bark, oat kernel flour, oatmeal, octinoxate, otyl palmitate, olive oil, olive squalane, orange, orange blossom, orbignya oleifera (babassu) seed oil, orchid ,palm oil, palmarosa, panthenol, papain, papaya, passion fruit, peptides, peppermint, persea gratissima, phenoxyethanol, pine, pineapple, pomegranate, potato starch modified, powdered milk ,pro-vitamin A, pro-vitamin B (biotin), pro-vitamin B5 (panthenol), pycnogenol, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice bran oil, rose flower, rose hips , rosemary, rosemary leaf, rosemary leaf oil, safflower oil, sage , salicylic acid, saw palmetto, sea kelp, sea salt, seaweed extract, sesame oil, shea butter, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hydroxide, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soy bean oil, soy lecithin , soy protein, squalane, St. Johnswort , stem cells, sugar cane juice, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, sweet orange oil, tea tree, thyme, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tribehenin, turmeric ubiquinone, ulva lactuca ,vanilla, vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin B factor (Inositol), vitamin B factor (Niacin B3), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin C (citric acid), vitamin C (ester C), vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), vitamin D , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), walnut extract, walnut powder, watercress, wheat germ, wheat protein, white tea, wild thyme, wild yam root, willow bark, witch hazel, xanthan gum, ylang ylang, yucca extract, zingiber zerumbet, zinigiber officinale and any mixture thereof.
15. A method of preparing a gel-like agarose admixture useful for cosmetics applications, said method comprising steps of:
i. providing an aqueous solution of agarose and a hydrophobic substance; and ii. admixing said aqueous solution of agarose with said hydrophobic substance; wherein said method additionally comprising step of heating said aqueous solution of agarose with said hydrophobic substance to a temperature in the range of about 50-70°C thereby forming a cross-linked network of agarose-agarose comprising said hydrophobic substance intercalated within said cross-linked network of said agarose- agarose.
16. The method according to claim 13, wherein said step of admixing said aqueous solution of agarose with said hydrophobic substance by at least one of the following steps: a. adding said aqueous solution of agarose in small portions to hydrophobic substance under vigorous stirring to obtain a agarose-agarose network comprising said hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose-agarose ; and,
b. adding said hydrophobic substance in small portions to said aqueous solution of agarose under vigorous stirring to obtain a agarose-agarose network comprising said hydrophobic substance intercalated within the cross-linked network of agarose-agarose.
17. The method according to claim 15, wherein said step of providing said aqueous solution of agarose and said hydrophobic substance volume in a ratio of approximately 40:60, respectively.
18. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method additionally comprising step of performing a visual appearance test for determining the homogeneity of said admixture.
19. The method according to claim 18, wherein said step of performing a visual appearance test further followed by steps of:
a. admixing said aqueous solution of agarose in small portions to said ydrophobic substance; or
b. admixing said hydrophobic substance in small portions to said aqueous solution of agarose.
20. The method according to claim 15, wherein said step of providing said aqueous solution of agarose and said hydrophobic substance volume in a ratio preferably between 30:70, respectively.
21. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method additionally comprising step of forming a dispersed phase of said hydrophobic substance, within said aqueous solution of agarose as a continuous phase.
22. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method additionally comprising step of forming said cross-linked network of said agarose-agarose as an intermediate cosmetics product.
23. The method according to claim 15, wherein said step of providing said aqueous solution of agarose additionally comprising steps of preparing an aqueous solution of agarose by dissolving agarose powder in hot water until complete dissolving said agarose.
24. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method additionally comprising step of providing said agarose as a natural unmodified polymer, agarose with reduced acidic groups or as substituted agarose.
25. The method according to claim 15, wherein said step of admixing additionally comprising steps of:
i. adding water in small portions to said hydrophobic substance until complete dissolving of the agarose powder under vigorous stirring to obtain said network of said hydrophobic substance comprising oil droplets suspended in said aqueous solution of agarose; and
ii. cooling down said network of said aqueous solution of agarose suspended in oil to a room temperature under slow stirring.
26. The method according to claim 23, wherein said dissolving agarose comprising step of providing agarose particles with diameter less than 100 μιη.
27. The method according to claim 23, wherein said dissolving agarose powder comprising step of of providing said agarose with a molecular weight of about 10,000 to 1,500,000 daltons.
28. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method additionally comprising step of providing said aqueous solution of agarose comprising at most 99.9%wt of water.
29. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method comprising steps of providing said gel-like agarose admixture complying with ASTM E 1490-03 skin feel analysis, which is separated into three main evaluation sections: evaluation of the product in a petri dish, pick-up evaluation, and rub out evaluation.
30. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method additionally comprising step admixing at least one ingredient to produce said gel-like agarose admixture selected from the group consisting of emulsifiers, emollients, thickeners, preservatives, humectants, consistency factors, antioxidants, UV blockers, vitamins, antioxidants, chelating agents, fragrance, active agents, plant extracts, coloring agents, aesthetics enhancers, vegetable oils, animal oils and fats, minerals, proteins, seaweed extracts, and any combination thereof.
31. The method according to claim 15, wherein said method additionally comprising steps of providing at least one ingredient selected from the group consisting of natural or synthetic ambergris, allantoin, almond meal, almond oil, aloe vera, alpha beta hydroxy acid complex, alpha hydroxy acids (AHA), alpha lipoic acid, apricot kernel oil, arginine, arnica montana, ascorbic acid, avocado oil, awapuhi, azulene, babassu oil, baking soda, basil, beeswax, benzophenone-3, benzyl alcohol, beta carotene, beta glucan, birch leaf, black pepper, blue-green algae, butyrospermum parkii, calcium pantothenate, calendula, camellia sinensis (green tea) ,camellia sinensis (white tea), camphor ,cananga ordorata flower oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, caramel, cardamom ,carica papaya, carrot oil, castor oil, castor oil phosphate, castor wax, cedarwood, centella asciatica, cetyl alcohol, chamomile, chlorella, cider vinegar, citric acid ,citrus aurantium dulcis oil ,citrus limonum peel ,citrus medica limonum peel oil , clary sage ,cocamidopropyl betaine, cocoa butter, coconut milk ,coconut oil, coleus, collagen, colloidal oatmeal, coenzyme Q10, coriander , corn cob meal, cornstarch ,cotton, cucumber, d-alpha tocopherol (vitamin E), dehydroxanthan gum, dihydroxyacetone, DMAE ,echinacea, epsom salt, ester C, eucalyptus ,evening primrose oil ,fennel ,flax seed oil ,folic acid, frankincense, geranium maculatum oil, ginger , ginkgo biloba, ginseng ,glycerin, glycolic acid, gotu kola, grape seed oil ,grape skin extract ,grapefruit ,grapefruit (seed) extract ,green tea, ground oatmeal, hibiscus, honey,honeysuckle, hyaluronic acid ,hybrid safflower oil, hydrosol, hyssop, irish moss,isopropyl palmitate, jasmine oil, jojoba oil , jojoba wax ,kelp , kukui nut ,lactic acid, lanolinm, lavender, lavender hydrosol, lecithin, lecithin liposomes, lemon, lemon balm, lemon bioflavonoids, lemon peel, lemongrass, licorice, lime, linden flower, linum usitatissimum, macadamia nut oil ,malic acid, mandarin, mangifera indica, mango butter, mentha piperita, menthol, methylparaben, mulberry leaf, myrrh, nettle ,niacin - vitamin B factor, oak bark, oat kernel flour, oatmeal, octinoxate, otyl palmitate, olive oil, olive squalane, orange, orange blossom, orbignya oleifera (babassu) seed oil, orchid ,palm oil, palmarosa, panthenol, papain, papaya, passion fruit, peptides, peppermint, persea gratissima, phenoxyethanol, pine, pineapple, pomegranate, potato starch modified, powdered milk ,pro-vitamin A, pro-vitamin B (biotin), pro-vitamin B5 (panthenol), pycnogenol, retinol, retinyl palmitate, rice bran oil, rose flower, rose hips , rosemary, rosemary leaf, rosemary leaf oil, safflower oil, sage , salicylic acid, saw palmetto, sea kelp, sea salt, seaweed extract, sesame oil, shea butter, sodium hyaluronate, sodium hydroxide, sorbitan stearate, sorbitol, soy bean oil, soy lecithin , soy protein, squalane, St. Johnswort , stem cells, sugar cane juice, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, sweet orange oil, tea tree, thyme, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, tribehenin, turmeric ubiquinone, ulva lactuca ,vanilla, vitamin A, vitamin B complex, vitamin B factor (Inositol), vitamin B factor (Niacin B3), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin C (citric acid), vitamin C (ester C), vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), vitamin C (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), vitamin D , vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin E (d-alpha tocopherol), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), walnut extract, walnut powder, watercress, wheat germ, wheat protein, white tea, wild thyme, wild yam root, willow bark, witch hazel, xanthan gum, ylang ylang, yucca extract, zingiber zerumbet, zinigiber officinale and any mixture thereof.
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