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WO2015001072A1 - Composition capillaire auto-moussante non colorante comprenant un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, un tensioactif et un gaz propulseur - Google Patents

Composition capillaire auto-moussante non colorante comprenant un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, un tensioactif et un gaz propulseur Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015001072A1
WO2015001072A1 PCT/EP2014/064293 EP2014064293W WO2015001072A1 WO 2015001072 A1 WO2015001072 A1 WO 2015001072A1 EP 2014064293 W EP2014064293 W EP 2014064293W WO 2015001072 A1 WO2015001072 A1 WO 2015001072A1
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weight
alkyl
composition according
anionic
hair
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English (en)
Inventor
Marie-Florence D'ARRAS
Estelle Mathonneau
Renaud Souchay
Henri Samain
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548—Associative polymers

Definitions

  • Self-foaming non-colouring hair composition comprising an anionic or nonionic associative polymer, a surfactant and a propellant gas
  • the present invention relates to a self-foaming non-co louring hair composition
  • a self-foaming non-co louring hair composition comprising at least 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the self-foaming non-co louring hair composition, o f at least one anionic or nonionic associative polymer, at least one anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactant and at least one propellant gas.
  • shampoos which are aqueous compositions comprising high proportions of surfactants .
  • surfactants are generally anionic surfactants, alone or in combination with amphoteric or nonionic surfactants.
  • concentrations o f surfactants employed usually exceed 10% by weight, expressed as active materials.
  • surfactants are for the mo st part aggressive towards the scalp and frequently lead to phenomena of irritation, reflected by redness or feelings of discomfort. These surfactants are also aggressive towards the eyes.
  • surfactants degrade the cosmetic properties of the hair, leading to the need to add conditioning ingredients, such as cationic po lymers, silicones or non-silicone oils.
  • Associative po lymers are known in cosmetics . These are polymers which, due to their structure, have portions or groups which have the property of associating with one another or with the mo lecules or portions of mo lecules of other compounds. These phenomena of associations are generally reflected by significant increases in viscosity. These associative polymers are thus used as thickening or viscosifying agents or as suspending agents . Such polymers, capable of associating reversibly with one another or with other mo lecules, are known as associative po lymers .
  • the forces o f interactions invo lved can be very different in nature, for example o f electrostatic nature, of hydrogen bond type or hydrophobic interactions.
  • compositions thus obtained even if they make possible a detergency similar to that obtained with a conventional shampoo , still exhibit an insufficient foaming nature.
  • cosmetic properties conferred on the hair are still not entirely satisfactory, in particular on dry hair.
  • the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly and unexpectedly, that the combination o f 2% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of a self-foaming non-co louring hair composition, of one or more anionic or nonionic associative polymers, with one or more anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic surfactants, in the presence of 1 % to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the self- foaming non-co louring hair composition, of one or more propellant gases, makes it possible to overcome the abovementioned disadvantages and is in particular capable of generating an adequate foam, in terms o f quality and amount, while giving the hair satisfactory cosmetic properties, such as sheen, so ftness, smoothness, disentangling and suppleness, very particularly on dry hair.
  • compositions are self-foaming, that is to say that the foam expands after the product has been dispensed, in particular when it is spread over the head of hair.
  • a subj ect-matter of the invention is thus a self-foaming non- co louring hair composition comprising :
  • compositions according to the invention are rinsed out faster than conventional shampoos . They intrinsically have a more pronounced treating nature and give the hair more lightness, in particular wet hair. They do not necessarily require the addition o f viscosifying agents . They are better tolerated by the scalp and the eyes. Furthermore, they are more easily spread over the head o f hair.
  • Another subj ect-matter of the present invention is the use o f a composition according to the invention for cleansing and/or conditioning human hair.
  • Another subject-matter of the invention consists o f a method for cleansing and/or conditioning human hair, comprising the use o f the self-foaming non-co louring hair composition as described below.
  • non-co louring composition is understood to mean, according to the present invention, a composition not containing a dye for keratinous fibres, such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. This is because, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, that is to say that no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratinous fibres.
  • a dye for keratinous fibres such as direct dyes or oxidation dye precursors (bases and/or couplers). If they are present, their content does not exceed 0.005 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. This is because, at such a content, only the composition would be dyed, that is to say that no dyeing effect would be observed on the keratinous fibres.
  • the self-foaming non-co louring hair composition comprises :
  • the term "po lymer” is understood to mean any compound resulting from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide and than a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C 1 0 - C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group . All the compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation o f an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcoho l, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine are in particular excluded.
  • fatty compound denotes, in the present description, such as, for example, a fatty alcoho l, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the term "associative po lymer” is understood to mean an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, o f reversibly associating with itself or with other mo lecules . It generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group .
  • hydrophobic group is understood to mean a group or a polymer comprising a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon chain.
  • the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 1 8 to 30 carbon atoms .
  • the hydrocarbon hydrophobic group originates from a mono functional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group can result from a fatty alcoho l, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcoho l, or else from a po lyalkylenated fatty alcoho l, such as Steareth- 100. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.
  • R' denotes H or CH 3
  • B denotes the ethyleneoxy group
  • n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100
  • R denotes a hydrocarbon group chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl or cycloalkyl groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more particularly still from 12 to 1 8 carbon atoms.
  • fatty chain is understood to mean a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms .
  • a unit o f formula (I) more particularly preferred is a unit in which R' denotes H, n is equal to 10 and R denotes a stearyl (C 1 8 ) group .
  • Anionic associative po lymers o f this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process in Patent EP-0 216 479.
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or
  • R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , which corresponds to acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and for which the hydrophobic unit o f (C i o-C 3 o)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of fo llowing formula (III) :
  • H 2 C CR 1 -COOR 3 (III) in which R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , which corresponds to acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and preferably H
  • R 3 denotes a C i o-C 3 o and preferably C i 2 -C 22 alkyl group .
  • (C i o-C 3 o)Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
  • Anionic po lymers o f this type are, for example, described and prepared according to Patents US 3 915 921 and US 4 509 949.
  • anionic associative polymers o f this type of po lymers formed from a mixture o f monomers comprising :
  • a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glyco l dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • anionic associative polymers of this type of those composed of 95 % to 60% by weight o f acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40%> by weight of C 1 0 - C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0% to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or else of those composed of 98 %> to 96%> by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 % to 4% by weight of C 1 0 - C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0. 1 % to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
  • maleic anhydride/C3 o - C38 a-o lefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the product maleic anhydride/C3 o - C38 a-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer so ld under the name Performa V 1608 by Newphase Technologies .
  • acrylic terpolymers comprising :
  • a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoisocyanate having monoethylenic unsaturation, such as those described in Patent Application EP-A-0 1 73 109 and more particularly that described in Example 3 , namely a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcoho l dimethyl- meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate terpolymer, as a 25 % by weight aqueous dispersion.
  • a nonionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoisocyanate having monoethylenic unsaturation, such as those described in Patent Application EP-A-0 1 73 109 and more particularly that described in Example 3 , namely a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcoho l dimethyl- meta
  • o f this type o f compound Mention may be made, as example o f this type o f compound, o f Viscophobe DB 1 000, sold by Amercho l (Dow Chemical), with the INCI name Po lyacrylate-3.
  • copolymers comprising, among their monomers, a carboxylic acid having ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenic unsaturation and an ester of carboxylic acid having ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenic unsaturation and o f an oxyalkylenated fatty alcoho l.
  • these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of carboxylic acid having ⁇ , ⁇ -monoethylenic unsaturation and of C 1 - C4 alcoho l.
  • Examples o f anionic associative po lymers as defined above are those so ld under the trade names Aculyn 88 (crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate polymer), sold by Rohm & Haas, Novethix L- 10 Polymer (crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate polymer), sold by Lubrizol, Synthalen W2000 (acrylates/oxyethylenated palmityl acrylate copolymer), sold by 3V Sigma, and Rheomer 33 (Polyacrylate-33 ), sold by Rhodia.
  • Aculyn 88 crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate polymer
  • Novethix L- 10 Polymer crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate polymer
  • Lubrizol Synthalen W2000 (acrylates/oxyethylenated palmityl acrylate cop
  • the anionic associative polymers defined above also comprise an ester of carboxylic acid having ⁇ , ⁇ - monoethylenic unsaturation and of C 1 - C4 alcoho l as additional monomer.
  • Mention may be made, as examples of this type o f compound, o f Aculyn 22, so ld by Rohm & Haas, which is an acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer, and of Aculyn 28 , sold by Rohm & Haas, which is an acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer.
  • nonionic associative po lymers which can be used in the invention are preferably chosen from:
  • ( 1 ) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain Mention may be made, as example, of:
  • alkyl groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or their mixtures, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C 8 - C22 alkyl groups, such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C 1 6 alkyls) or Polysurf 67 C S , which are sold by Ashland, or the product Bermocoll EHM 100, sold by Bero l Nobel,
  • alkylphenyl polyalkylene glyco l ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM- 1 500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol ( 15) ether) sold by Amercho l.
  • hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C 22 alkyl chain), sold by Lamberti, and the products RE210- 1 8 (C 1 4 alkyl chain) and RE205 - 1 (C 20 alkyl chain), sold by Rhodia Chimie.
  • inulins modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as inulin alkyl carbamates and in particular the inulin lauryl carbamate provided by Orafti under the name Inutec SPI.
  • Antaron V2 16 and Ganex V21 6 (vinylpyrro lidone/hexadecene copolymer), sold by ISP,
  • Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 (vinylpyrro lidone/eicosene copolymer), sold by ISP .
  • copolymers o f C i -C 6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and o f amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, the methyl acrylate/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer so ld by Go ldschmidt under the name Antil 208.
  • copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and o f hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as, for example, the polyethylene glyco l methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.
  • polyurethane po lyethers comprising, in their chain, both hydrophilic blo cks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blo cks which can be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
  • polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix compounds so ld by Sud- Chemie.
  • the nonionic associative po lymer or polymers are preferably chosen from po lyurethane po lyethers.
  • the nonionic associative po lyurethane po lyethers according to the invention comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms which are separated by a hydrophilic blo ck, it being possible for the hydrocarbon chains to be pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic blo ck. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged.
  • the polymer can comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic blo ck.
  • the po lyurethane po lyethers can be multiblo ck, in particular in triblo ck form.
  • the hydrophobic blo cks can be at each end of the chain (for example : triblock copolymer having a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer) .
  • These same polymers can also be graft polymers or star polymers.
  • the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers can be triblo ck copolymers, the hydrophilic blo ck of which is a polyoxyethylene chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups .
  • the nonionic po lyurethane po lyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blo cks, hence the origin o f the name.
  • nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers also include those, the hydrophilic blo cks of which are bonded to the lipophilic blo cks via other chemical bonds.
  • nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers which can be used in the invention, o f Rheo late 205 comprising a urea functional group , sold by Elementis, or Rheo late 208 , 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 1 84.
  • the product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas having a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, provided at a solids content of 20% in water, can also be used.
  • Use may also be made o f so lutions or dispersions of these polymers, in particular in water or in aqueous/alcoho lic medium. Mention may be made, as examples of such polymers, of Rheolate 255 , Rheo late 278 and Rheolate 244 , sold by Elementis. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J, provided by Rohm & Haas.
  • polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the paper by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen, Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380- 389 (1993).
  • a nonionic associative polyurethane polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 100 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate.
  • Rheolate FX 1100® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) having a weight- average molecular weight (Mw) of 30000 (INCI name: PEG- 136/Steareth-100/HDI Copolymer).
  • a polyurethane polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.
  • Aculyn 46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%);
  • Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol comprising 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%>) and water (26%>)].
  • the associative polymers as described above have a number-average mo lecular weight of less than 500 000 and more preferably still o f less than 1 00 000, preferably ranging from 5000 to 80 000, which can be measured by methods such as cryoscopy, osmotic pressure, ebullio scopy or titration of the end groups.
  • the anionic and/or nonionic associative po lymer(s) used in the invention is or are chosen from the anionic associative polymers of the families (2) and (5) and the nonionic associative polymers.
  • the anionic and/or nonionic associative polymer(s) used in the invention is or are chosen from the products so ld by Lubrizo l under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2, the crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated stearyl methacrylate polymer so ld under the name Aculyn 88 by Rohm & Haas, the crosslinked acrylates/oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate po lymer so ld under the name Novethix L- 10 Polymer by Lubrizol, the acrylates/palmityl acrylate copolymer sold under the name Synthalen W2000 by 3V Sigma, the Polyacrylate-33 so ld under the name Rheomer 33 by Rhodia, an acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Rohm & Haas, the acrylic acid/
  • the associative po lymer according to the invention is a nonionic associative po lymer chosen from the nonionic associative po lyurethane po lyethers (family (7)), in particular those capable of being obtained by polycondensation o f at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glyco l comprising from 100 to 1 80 mo l o f ethylene oxide, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcoho l comprising 100 mo l o f ethylene oxide and (iii) a diisocyanate, such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate/polyethylene glyco l copo lymer comprising ⁇ , ⁇ stearyl polyoxyethylene endings so ld under the name Rheo late FX 1 100.
  • the anionic and/or nonionic associative polymer or polymers used in the composition o f the invention are present in an amount ranging from 2% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 2.5 % to 40%) by weight and better still ranging from 2.7% to 20%> by weight, indeed even 2.75 % to 15 % by weight, of the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions o f the invention comprise one or more surfactants chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants .
  • anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups .
  • anionic groups are preferably chosen from the fo llowing groups : -C0 2 H, -C0 2 , -S0 3 H, -S0 3 ⁇ , -OS0 3 H, -OS0 3 ⁇ , -H 2 P0 3 , -HP0 3 ⁇ , -P0 3 2 ⁇ , -H 2 P0 2 , -HP0 2 ⁇ , -P0 2 2 ⁇ , -POH or -PO ⁇
  • anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention, o f alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfo succinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- poly
  • These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts o f C 6 - C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C 6 - C24 alkyl po lyglycoside- citrates, C 6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C 6 - C24 alkyl poly glycoside-sulfo succinates .
  • anionic surfactants are in the form of salts, it (they) can be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcoho l salts, or the alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular the aminoalcoho l salts, or the alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.
  • the anionic surfactants can be chosen from (C 6 - C24)alkyl sulfates, (C 6 - C24)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol and alkaline earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • the anionic surfactants can be chosen from surfactants comprising anionic groups chosen from -C(0)OH, -C(0)0 " , - S O 3 H or -S(0) 2 0 " , such as alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyl lactylates or N-acylglycinates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • anionic groups chosen from -C(0)OH, -C(0)0 " , -
  • C 6 -4o acyl glutamates are used for example, use may be made of C 6 -4o acyl glutamates, better still C 6 -24 acyl glutamates, such as, for example, the disodium cocoyl glutamate provided under the trade name Plantapon ACG LC by BASF, or C 6 -4o acyl isethionates and better still C 6 -24 acyl isethionates, such as, for example, the sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate sold by Innospec under the trade name Iselux LQ-CLR-SB.
  • C 6 -4o acyl glutamates such as, for example, the disodium cocoyl glutamate provided under the trade name Plantapon ACG LC by BASF
  • C 6 -4o acyl isethionates and better still C 6 -24 acyl isethionates such as, for example, the sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate sold by Innospec under
  • nonionic surfactants which can be used in the non- colouring hair composition according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178.
  • They are chosen in particular from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C2o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50 and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30.
  • the nonionic surfactants which are particularly preferred are C6-C24 alkyl mono- or polyglycosides.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants capable of being used in the present invention can in particular be derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines comprising at least one anionic group, such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, and in which the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • R a represents a C 10 -C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
  • R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X * represents the -CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 -COOZ', -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ' group or a hydrogen atom
  • Y * represents -COOH, -COOZ' or the -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z' group
  • Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol, 2-amino-2- methyl- 1 ,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,
  • R a' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a - COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • Y represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ", -CH 2 -CH(OH)- SO 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z";
  • Rd and R e represent, independently of one another, a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group
  • Z" represents a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
  • R a" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a" - C(0)OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil; n and n' denote , independently o f one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 3 .
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs -C 2 o)alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylamido(C i - C6)alkyl betaines and (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylamphodiacetates, the sodium salt o f diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate, and their mixtures .
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from co coylamidopropyl betaine, cocoyl betaine and cocoamphodiacetate .
  • the cationic surfactant or surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise in particular salts o f optionally po lyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts , and their mixtures .
  • quaternary ammonium salts for example , of:
  • the groups Rs to Rn which can be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group , such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms .
  • the aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms , such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens .
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 -C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22 )alkylamido(C 2 -C6)alkyl, (Ci 2 -C 22 )alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups, and X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or also palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl ® 70 by Van Dyk.
  • dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides,
  • R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,
  • Ri3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
  • Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • Ri5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids
  • R14 denotes a methyl group
  • R15 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat ® W 75 by Rewo.
  • Ri 6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms
  • Ri7 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH 2 )3-N + (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a) group,
  • Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri9, R 2 o and R 2 1 which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkylsulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, provided by Finetex (Quaternium 89), or Finquat CT, provided by Finetex (Quaternium 75).
  • - quaternary ammonium salts comprising one or more ester functional groups, such as, for example, those of following formula (IX):
  • R22 is chosen from Ci-C 6 alkyl groups and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,
  • R23 is chosen from:
  • R25 is chosen from:
  • Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon groups R29
  • R24, R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups,
  • r, s and t which are identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6,
  • rl and tl which are identical or different, have the values 0 or
  • y is an integer having a value from 1 to 10
  • x and z which are identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 1 0,
  • X " is an organic or inorganic and simple or complex anion
  • the R 22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group .
  • the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 1 0.
  • R 23 is an R 27 hydrocarbon group, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 2 5 is an R 2 g hydrocarbon group, it preferably has from 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 2 s which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C n -C 2 1 hydrocarbon groups and more particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C n -C 2 1 alkyl and alkenyl groups .
  • x and z which are identical or different, have values of 0 or 1 .
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which are identical or different, have values of 2 or 3 and more particularly still are equal to 2.
  • the anion X " is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, a (C i -C 4 )alkyl sulfate, a (C i -C 4 )alkylsulfonate or a (C i -C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate.
  • a halide preferably chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (C i -C 4 )alkyl sulfate a (C i -C 4 )alkylsulfonate or a (C i -C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate.
  • use may be made o f methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion compatible with the ammonium comprising an ester functional group .
  • the anion X " is more particularly still chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate. Use is more particularly made, in the composition according to the invention, of the ammonium salts o f formula (IX) in which:
  • R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • - R23 is chosen from:
  • - R25 is chosen from:
  • R24 , R26 and R28 which are identical or different, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 3 -C 1 7 hydrocarbon groups and preferably from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 1 3 -C 1 7 alkyl and alkenyl groups .
  • the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
  • acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil . When the compound comprises several acyl groups, the latter can be identical or different.
  • This esterification is fo llowed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl /?ara-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl /?ara-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are, for example, sold under the names Dehyquart ® by Henkel, Stepanquat ® by Stepan, Noxamium ® by Ceca or Rewoquat ® WE 1 8 by Rewo-Witco .
  • composition according to the invention can comprise, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a predominance by weight of diester salts.
  • Use may also be made of behenoyl- hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, provided by Kao under the name Quartamin BTC 13 1 .
  • the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester functional group comprise two ester functional groups .
  • the self-foaming non-co louring hair composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular such as C 6 - C 24 alkyl mono- or polyglycosides, and anionic surfactants, in particular C 6 -4 o acyl glutamates, better still C 6 -24 acyl glutamates.
  • nonionic surfactants in particular such as C 6 - C 24 alkyl mono- or polyglycosides
  • anionic surfactants in particular C 6 -4 o acyl glutamates, better still C 6 -24 acyl glutamates.
  • composition according to the invention preferably exhibits a total content of surfactant(s) of less than or equal to 10% by weight, better still of less than 8% by weight and even better still of less than 7.5 %) by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the said total content of surfactant(s) can range from 0. 1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 % to 8% by weight and more preferably still from 1 .5 % to 7.5 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ratio by weight o f the total amount of surfactant(s) to the total amount of associative po lymer(s) is preferably less than 3 , better still ranging from 0.01 to 2.8 , even better still ranging from 0. 1 to 2.5 and preferably ranging from 0.3 to 2. 1 .
  • the propellant gas(es) used in the self-foaming non-co louring hair composition is or are preferably chosen from C i _ 5 alkanes, such as propane, isopropane, butane, isobutane, pentane or isopentane, and their mixtures . More preferably still, the propellant gas(es) is or are chosen from isobutane, isopentane and their mixtures . Better still, a mixture of isopentane and isobutane is used.
  • the propellant gas(es) as defined above can represent preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 1 % to 5 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more amphoteric associative polymers .
  • composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more polymers other than the nonionic or anionic associative po lymers according to the invention, and in particular chosen from cationic or amphoteric po lymers, and also their mixtures.
  • composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more cationic po lymers.
  • cationic po lymer is understood to mean any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups which can be ionized to form cationic groups.
  • the cationic polymer is hydrophilic or amphiphilic .
  • the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which comprise units comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups which can either form part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a side substituent directly connected to the main polymer chain.
  • the cationic po lymers capable o f being used preferably have a weight-average mo lar mass (Mw) o f between 500 and 5 x 10 6 approximately and preferably of between 10 3 and 3 x 10 6 approximately.
  • R3 which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group
  • - A which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group o f 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms or a benzyl group; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R 2 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers o f the family ( 1 ) can additionally comprise one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family o f the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by C 1 - C 4 alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams, such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters .
  • ( 1 ) of: - copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a methyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules,
  • methacryloyloxy(Ci- C 4 )alkyl tri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by a crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of the said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is so ld under the name Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyl- trimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba.
  • Cationic po lysaccharides in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums . Mention may more particularly be made, among cationic po lysaccharides, of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, of cationic cellulose copolymers or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-so luble quaternary ammonium monomer, and of cationic galactomannan gums.
  • Cellulo se ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in French Patent 1 492 597, and mention may be made o f the po lymers so ld under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 or JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 or LR 30M) by Amercho l. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted by a trimethylammonium group .
  • Cationic cellulo se copolymers or cellulo se derivatives grafted with a water-so luble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US Patent 4 13 1 576, and mention may be made o f hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses, grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl- trimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 1 00 by National Starch.
  • Cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Patents 3 589 578 and 4 03 1 307, and mention may be made o f guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups .
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified by a 2,3 - epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride) .
  • Such products are sold in particular under the names Jaguar C I 3 S , Jaguar C 15 , Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar C 162 by Rhodia.
  • Po lyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation o f po lyalkylenepo lyamines with po lycarboxylic acids, fo llowed by an alkylation by bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Mention may more particularly be made, among these derivatives, o f the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by Sandoz.
  • Polymers obtained by reaction o f a polyalkylenepolyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio of polyalkylenepolyamine to dicarboxylic acid preferably being of between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin in relation to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (PI) or (PII):
  • - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;
  • - Ri2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;
  • Ri o and Rn denote, independently of one another, an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has from 1 to 5 carbon atoms or a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or else Ri o and Rn can denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R 1 0 and Rn , independently o f one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • - Y " is an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R , Ri 4 , Ri 5 and Ri 6 which are identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C i _ 4 hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or else R , Ri 4 , Ri 5 and Ri 6 , together or separately, form, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or else R , Ri 4 , Ri s and Ri 6 represent a linear or branched C i -C 6 alkyl group substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O- R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and B i represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, and which can comprise, bonded to or inserted into the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • a ls Ri 3 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring.
  • Bi can also denote a (CH 2 ) hinder-CO-D-OC-(CH 2 ) admir- group in which D denotes:
  • a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O- where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 -CH 2 -0) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - and -[CH 2 - CH(CH 3 )-0] y -CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-, where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization, or any number from 1 to 4 representing a mean degree of polymerization;
  • a bissecondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • R ls R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and X " is an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid.
  • Ri8, Ri9, R 20 and R 2 i which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) p OH group, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that Ri 8 , R19, R 2 o and R 2 i do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - q is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 34
  • - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents
  • Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175, sold by Miranol Mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175, sold by Miranol.
  • Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF.
  • Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary.
  • Polymers comprising, in their structure :
  • these polymers can be chosen in particular from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units resulting from vinylamine and optionally one or more units resulting from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic po lymers are chosen from po lymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mo l% to 1 00 mo l% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 mo l% to 95 mo l% o f units corresponding to the formula (B), preferably from 10 mo l% to 100 mo l% o f units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 mol% to 90 mo l% of units corresponding to the formula (B) .
  • These po lymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydro lysis o f po lyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in an acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average mo lecular weight of the said polymer measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mo l, preferably from 1 0 000 to 1 000 000 g/mol and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mo l.
  • the cationic charge density o f these polymers can vary from 2 to 20 meq/g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 meq/g and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq/g.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the Lupamin name by BASF, such as, for example, in a non-limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • the cationic polymers are chosen from those of the abovementioned families (1), (2), (7) and (10).
  • Use may preferably be made, among the abovementioned cationic polymers, of cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and especially quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by Nalco, and their homologues of low weight-average molecular weights, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci-C 4 )alkylammonium salts, and their mixtures.
  • quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name J
  • amphoteric polymers which can preferably be chosen from amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of:
  • the units resulting from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamide type (i) are units of fo llowing structure (la) : in which Ri denotes H or CH 3 and R 2 is chosen from an amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino or -NH-CH 2 OH group .
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition o f only a single unit o f formula (la) .
  • the unit resulting from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type o f formula (la) in which Ri denotes H and R 2 is an amino group (NH 2 ) is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer proper.
  • the units resulting from a monomer o f (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) are units o f fo llowing structure (Ha) :
  • R 3 denotes H or CH 3 ,
  • R 4 denotes a (CH 2 ) k group with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 4;
  • R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which are identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition o f only a single unit o f formula (Ha) .
  • the units resulting from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) are units of formula (Ilia) :
  • R 8 denotes H or CH 3 and R 9 denotes a hydroxyl group or an -NH-C(CH 3 ) 2 -CH 2 -S0 3 H group .
  • the preferred units o f formula (Ilia) correspond to the acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomers.
  • the unit resulting from a monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type o f formula (Ilia) is that resulting from acrylic acid, for which R 8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R 9 denotes a hydroxyl group .
  • the acidic monomer or monomers o f (meth)acrylic acid type can be non-neutralized or partially or completely neutralized by an organic or inorganic base.
  • the said amphoteric polymer comprises the repetition o f only a single unit o f formula (Ilia) .
  • the amphoteric polymer or polymers of this type comprise at least 30 mo l% o f units resulting from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type (i) .
  • they comprise from 30 mo l% to 70 mo l% and more preferably from 40 mol% to 60 mo l% of units resulting from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type.
  • the content of units resulting from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) can advantageously be from 10 mol% to 60 mol% and preferably from 20 mol% to 55 mol%.
  • (meth)acrylic acid type (iii) can advantageously be from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 5 mol% to 15 mol%.
  • amphoteric polymer of this type comprises:
  • Amphoteric polymers of this type can also comprise additional units other than the units resulting from a monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and of (meth)acrylic acid type as described above.
  • the said amphoteric polymers consist solely of units resulting from monomers of (meth)acrylamide type (i), of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type (ii) and of (meth)acrylic acid type (iii).
  • the composition according to the invention can comprise the cationic and/or amphoteric po lymers, preferably cationic po lymers, in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5 % by weight, in particular from 0.05 % to 3 % by weight and preferably from 0. 1 % to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5 % to 98% by weight, in particular from 20% to 95 % by weight and better still from 50%> to 95 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can also comprise one or more organic so lvents which are liquid at 25 °C and 1 .013 x 10 5 Pa and which are m particular water-so luble, such as C 1 - C7 alcoho ls, in particular C 1 - C 7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcoho ls, and C3 - C7 polyo ls and polyo l ethers, which can thus be used alone or as a mixture with water.
  • the organic solvent can be chosen from ethano l, isopropanol and their mixtures .
  • composition according to the invention can additionally comprise one or more additives chosen from silanes, such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) or octadecyltriethoxysilane (OTES), fatty substances, such as C 12 - C30 fatty alcoho ls, fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, such as a-o lefins; silicones, ceramides, natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the associative po lymers described above; antidandruff active agents, vitamins or provitamins; pearlescent agents; pH stabilizers, preservatives; dyes; and their mixtures.
  • silanes such as aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) or octadecyltriethoxysilane (OTES)
  • fatty substances such as C 12 - C30 fatty alcoho ls, fatty est
  • the pH o f the composition if it is aqueous, is preferably o f between 3 and 9 and in particular between 3 and 7.
  • compositions according to the invention can be provided, in a non-limiting way, in the form o f products for washing human hair, in particular shampoos, conditioning products, such as conditioners, or both.
  • the self-foaming non-co louring hair composition according to the invention can be packaged in an aerosol device normal in cosmetics.
  • the aerosol device can be composed o f an outer aerosol can which includes both the propellant or propellants and the other ingredients of the composition in a single compartment.
  • the said device is equipped with a valve having an inner restriction o f 0.3 to 3 mm and better still of 0.5 to 1 .5 mm, with an inner nozzle of 0.3 to 3 mm and better still o f 0.5 to 1 .5 mm and with an additional gas intake o f 0.3 to 3 mm and better still o f 0.5 to 1 .5 mm.
  • the device also comprises a push button which is equipped with a direct outlet orifice having a diameter of between 0.25 and 1 mm and preferably between 0.4 and 0.7 mm.
  • the aerosol device can be made o f two compartments, composed of an outer aerosol can comprising an inner bag hermetically welded to a valve.
  • the various ingredients of the composition are introduced into the inner bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a sufficient pressure to make the product come out in the form o f a spray through a nozzle orifice.
  • the said device is equipped with a valve having an inner restriction of 0.3 to 3 mm and better still of 0.5 to 1 .5 mm and with an inner nozzle o f 0.3 to 3 mm and better still o f 0.5 to 1 .5 mm.
  • the device also comprises a push button which is equipped with a direct outlet orifice having a diameter of between 0.25 and 1 mm and preferably between 0.4 and 0.7 mm.
  • a push button which is equipped with a direct outlet orifice having a diameter of between 0.25 and 1 mm and preferably between 0.4 and 0.7 mm.
  • Such a device is so ld, for example, under the name EP Spray by EP-Spray System SA.
  • the said compressed gas is preferably used at a pressure of between 1 and 12 bar and better still o f between 9 and 1 1 bar.
  • Another subject-matter of the invention is the use of the composition as defined above for cleansing and/or conditioning human hair.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for washing/cleansing and/or conditioning the hair which consists in applying, to the hair, an effective amount of a composition as described above and in rinsing out.
  • the invention is illustrated by the fo llowing examples.
  • compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below.
  • the amounts indicated are expressed as % by weight of product in this form, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • S elf- fo aming detergent compositions are obtained which are capable of being used for cleansing the hair and which result in good cosmetic properties on dry hair.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition capillaire auto-moussante non colorante comprenant : de 2 % à 60 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'au moins un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, au moins un tensioactif et au moins un gaz propulseur. L'invention concerne également son utilisation pour le nettoyage et/ou la revitalisation des cheveux humains.
PCT/EP2014/064293 2013-07-05 2014-07-04 Composition capillaire auto-moussante non colorante comprenant un polymère associatif anionique ou non ionique, un tensioactif et un gaz propulseur Ceased WO2015001072A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1356644A FR3007975B1 (fr) 2013-07-05 2013-07-05 Composition capillaire non-colorante auto-moussante, comprenant un polymere associatif anionique ou non-ionique, un tensioactif et un gaz propulseur
FR1356644 2013-07-05

Publications (1)

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WO2015001072A1 true WO2015001072A1 (fr) 2015-01-08

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FR (1) FR3007975B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2015001072A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018228898A1 (fr) 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Unilever Plc Composition capillaire ayant des propriétés de rinçage améliorées
WO2018228900A1 (fr) 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Unilever Plc Composition de soin capillaire ayant des propriétés de rinçage améliorées
WO2018228899A1 (fr) 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Unilever Plc Composition de conditionnement de cheveux pour un rinçage amélioré

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1550435A1 (fr) * 2003-12-16 2005-07-06 L'oreal S.A. Composition déodorante du type émulsion huile-dans-eau contenant un mélange d'alkylpolyglycoside et d'alcool gras et un polyéther polyuréthane non-ionique associatif
EP1634579A1 (fr) * 2004-09-09 2006-03-15 L'oreal Dispositif aérosol contenant au moins un polymère associatif acrylique et au moins un polymère fixant
FR2935267A1 (fr) * 2008-08-29 2010-03-05 Oreal Utilisation d'une composition comprenant un polymere associatif pour nettoyer les cheveux humains
WO2011073564A2 (fr) * 2009-12-17 2011-06-23 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un tensioactif, un alcool gras liquide et un polymere associatif non ionique et procédé de traitement cosmétique

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1550435A1 (fr) * 2003-12-16 2005-07-06 L'oreal S.A. Composition déodorante du type émulsion huile-dans-eau contenant un mélange d'alkylpolyglycoside et d'alcool gras et un polyéther polyuréthane non-ionique associatif
EP1634579A1 (fr) * 2004-09-09 2006-03-15 L'oreal Dispositif aérosol contenant au moins un polymère associatif acrylique et au moins un polymère fixant
FR2935267A1 (fr) * 2008-08-29 2010-03-05 Oreal Utilisation d'une composition comprenant un polymere associatif pour nettoyer les cheveux humains
WO2011073564A2 (fr) * 2009-12-17 2011-06-23 L'oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant un tensioactif, un alcool gras liquide et un polymere associatif non ionique et procédé de traitement cosmétique

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2018228898A1 (fr) 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Unilever Plc Composition capillaire ayant des propriétés de rinçage améliorées
WO2018228900A1 (fr) 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Unilever Plc Composition de soin capillaire ayant des propriétés de rinçage améliorées
WO2018228899A1 (fr) 2017-06-15 2018-12-20 Unilever Plc Composition de conditionnement de cheveux pour un rinçage amélioré

Also Published As

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FR3007975A1 (fr) 2015-01-09
FR3007975B1 (fr) 2016-07-01

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