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WO2014205813A1 - Composition de prévention ou de réduction de la pigmentation de la peau et d'éclaircissement du teint de la peau, et utilisations associées - Google Patents

Composition de prévention ou de réduction de la pigmentation de la peau et d'éclaircissement du teint de la peau, et utilisations associées Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014205813A1
WO2014205813A1 PCT/CN2013/078454 CN2013078454W WO2014205813A1 WO 2014205813 A1 WO2014205813 A1 WO 2014205813A1 CN 2013078454 W CN2013078454 W CN 2013078454W WO 2014205813 A1 WO2014205813 A1 WO 2014205813A1
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Prior art keywords
branched
linear
alkyl
hydrogen
group
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Ceased
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PCT/CN2013/078454
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English (en)
Inventor
Liang Zhou
Severine Jeulin
Ludwig Baux
Xinrong LIN
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority to PCT/CN2013/078454 priority Critical patent/WO2014205813A1/fr
Priority to CN201380077851.XA priority patent/CN105307626B/zh
Publication of WO2014205813A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014205813A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to skin care cosmetic field. More particular, the present invention relates to a topical composition for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone and use thereof.
  • Skin pigmentation control remains one of the key factors to achieve Asian ideal skin, and it was translated into a huge cosmetic market for skin care products in Asia. For instance, according to some studies, whitening products account for more than 35% of total skin care market in China, and still keep on growing at a relative quick speed of 15% in 201 1. The situation is similar in other Asia countries, like Japan, Korea, India and Indonesia.
  • Paeonia lactiflora's skin whitening efficacy was especially achieved by association with other herbs through oral administration.
  • finished products containing Paeonia lactiflora extract for topical application, are already available in global market, and in particular prevailing in Asian market.
  • a Chinese patent CN 102247446 describes a composition to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and prevent the production of melanin, which contains at least one whitening herb, like Paeonia lactiflora (white peony), licorice, ginseng etc.
  • Japanese patents JP2002128657, JP2002265348 and Korean patent KR20090130584 separately described a few compositions for skin whitening benefit, which contain some associations of herbal extracts, including Paeonia lactiflora extract.
  • those whitening active ingredients bear some drawback/disadvantage upon application in cosmetic composition, such as: ascorbic acid is unstable in most cosmetic compositions and prone to be oxidized; or some botanical extracts, when formulated with an effective dose, normally resulted in unpleasant smell and color in the cosmetic composition. Therefore there exists the need to find novel skin care products of the topical composition for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone without the above mentioned drawbacks/disadvantages.
  • This invention intends to remarkably inhibit melanin production through synergistic association of whitening active ingredients, hence by which this invention also indicates a solution to prevent and treat pigmentation of skin tone with depigmentation effect of white peony extract is to be improved significantly once associated with some known actives, so called synergy effect.
  • the present invention provides a topical composition comprising the combination of the extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae and at least one compound of formula (I),
  • R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl), more preferably hydrogen;
  • R2 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1 -C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl); preferably one of R2 and R3 is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
  • the present invention further comprises a compound of formula (I I),
  • R4 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1 -C20 acyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C1 -C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1 -C10 alkyl, more preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl, most preferably hydrogen;
  • R5 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C1 -C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably a linear or branched C1 -C10 alkyl, more preferably a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl or ethyl.
  • Another aspect of the present invention is directed to a cosmetic process for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone comprising application of the topical compositions as above mentioned to the skin.
  • the present invention provides the use of a combination of the extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae and at least one compound of formula (I) in producing a topical composition for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone,
  • R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl), more preferably hydrogen;
  • R2 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl); preferably one of R2 and R3 is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
  • composition of the present invention exhibits an improved effect in preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone. Meanwhile, the composition is stable over time, with pleasant cosmetic properties.
  • Figs.1 illustrates the measurement of the depigmentation activity (reduction of the production of melanin) of Paeonia lactiflora root extract, ferulic acid and their associations using normal human melanocytes in vitro assay.
  • WP indicates "Paeonia lactiflora root extract”
  • Lucinol is the positive control for depigmentation activity.
  • the essential components of the topical composition according to the invention are the extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae and the compound of formula (I).
  • Compound of formula (I) is the extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae and the compound of formula (I).
  • R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl), more preferably hydrogen;
  • R2 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl); preferably one of R2 and R3 is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
  • R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl
  • R2 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl.
  • R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl
  • R2 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl.
  • R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl.
  • R2 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl.
  • the compound of formula (I) is ferulic acid, wherein R1 is hydrogen, R2 is hydrogen and R3 is methyl as the following structure:
  • Ferulic acid is a hydroxycinnamic acid, which can be broadly found in giant fennel, the seeds of coffee, apple, artichoke, peanut, and orange, as well as in both seeds and cell walls of commelinid plants (such as rice, wheat, oats, and pineapple). Like many natural phenols, it is a strong antioxidant that is very reactive toward free radicals and reduces oxidative stress.
  • the compound of formula (I) is present in the composition from 0.01 % to 10% by weight; preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight; more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compound of formula (I) is selected from linear or branched C1- C10 alkyl ester of ferulic acid.
  • R1 is selected from ethyl and isooctyl, R2 and R3 are hydrogen.
  • Compound of formula (I) is commercially available or can be synthesized by known method in the art.
  • Extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae comprises an extract of a plant in the family
  • the extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae as above mentioned is obtained from a naturally grown part (preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of leaf, stem, root, flower, fruit and rhizome, more preferably root) and a cultivated part (preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of cells, tissues, organs and whole plant) of the plant.
  • a naturally grown part preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of leaf, stem, root, flower, fruit and rhizome, more preferably root
  • a cultivated part preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of cells, tissues, organs and whole plant
  • the plant in the family Paeoniaceae is a plant of the Paeonia L. genus, preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of Paeonia lactiflora Pall., Paeonia anomala ssp. Veitchii (Lynch) D. Y. Hong, Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews, Paeonia ostii T. Hong & J. X. Zhang, Paeonia rockii, Paeonia decomposita and Paeonia delavayi, and more preferably Paeonia lactiflora Pall..
  • the extract of the present invention can be obtained following the conventional methods.
  • the root of plant was crushed and washed, then submit to an alcoholic extraction, the liquor parts were filter out and concentrated to centrifuge in order to removal impurity.
  • the extracts were applied to a resin column, and eluting gradually by water and alcohol in order to get final extracts. This final extracts were concentrated and spray dried to obtain products.
  • the extract is paeonia lactiflora root extract.
  • the paeonia lactiflora root extract contains no less than 40%
  • the ratio by weight of the extract to the at least one compound of formula (I) is 1 :0.030-2, preferably 1 :0.070-0.5, and more preferably 1 :0.120-0.25.
  • the topical composition according to the present invention further comprising a compound of formula (II),
  • R4 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 acyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl,
  • R4 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl,
  • R4 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, most preferably hydrogen.
  • R5 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl,
  • R5 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl, More preferably R5 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl or ethyl.
  • R4 and R6 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C2-C6 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched C2-C6 alkenyl group, linear or branched C3-C6 alkynyl group.
  • R5 is selected from linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched C2-C6 alkenyl group.
  • R4 and R6 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C1-C4, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl group, linear or branched C3-C4 alkynyl group.
  • R5 is selected from linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl group.
  • R4 and R6 is hydrogen
  • R5 is ethyl
  • Compound of formula (II) is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of at least 0.04 g/L, preferably at least 0.25g/L.
  • the combination of the extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae and at least one compound of formula (II) is present in the composition from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the topical composition, optionally the remaining being a physically acceptable medium.
  • composition may further comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, which will preferably be a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, especially a
  • dermatologically acceptable medium i.e. a medium that has no unpleasant odour, colour or appearance, and that does not cause the user any unacceptable stinging, tautness or redness.
  • the composition is suitable for topical application to the skin.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition according to the invention to the skin.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water.
  • a water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C), for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (C1-C4)alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise stabilizers, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride or magnesium sulfate.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound that is compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners or surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 50% and more particularly from 10% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.
  • the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.
  • composition means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1 % to 90%, in particular from 5% to 80%, in particular from 10% to 70% and more particularly from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for instance the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®.
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10- 6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 x 10- 6 m2/s), and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1 % to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight and especially from 15% to 50% by weight of volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate
  • triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36 and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, winter squash oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil,
  • polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane
  • synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms
  • synthetic esters for instance the oils of formula RaCOORb, in which Ra represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and Rb represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the chains Ra and Rb is greater than or equal to 10.
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate,
  • esters for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopent
  • esters of diol dinners and of diacid dinners such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD- DA7® sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application US 2004-175 338
  • copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G
  • copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof such as Hailuscent ISDA or the dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecano
  • oils of high molar mass in particular having a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol.
  • oils of high molar mass that may be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters,
  • C24-C28 branched fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters silicone oils, oils of plant origin, and mixtures thereof; optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro oils, for instance
  • fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A- 847 752 silicone oils, for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and - mixtures thereof.
  • silicone oils for instance linear or cyclic non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alky
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention can contain only volatile compounds.
  • composition according to the invention may further comprise additional adjuvants commonly used in the envisaged application field.
  • Mention may be made especially of water; organic solvents, especially C1-C6 alcohols and C2- C10 carboxylic acid esters; carbon-based and/or silicone oils, of mineral, animal and/or plant origin; waxes, pigments, fillers, colorants, surfactants, emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers; cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV-screening agents, polymers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, thickeners, preserving agents, fragrances, bactericides, ceramides, odour absorbers, antioxidants.
  • These additional adjuvants may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.001 % to 80% by weight and especially from 0.1 % to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase of the composition, or into lipid vesicles.
  • these adjuvants, and the proportions thereof, will be chosen by a person skilled in the art such that the
  • This composition may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field, and especially in the form of an optionally gelled aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, a dispersion, optionally a two-phase dispersion, of the lotion type, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion (for example W/O/W or 0/W/O), an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase with the aid of spherules, these spherules possibly being polymer nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type; aqueous or oily gels.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • a composition in the form of an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water emulsion is preferably used.
  • the composition may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a gel or a mousse. It may optionally be applied in aerosol form. It may also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase may range from 5% to 80% by weight and preferably from 8% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsifier and the co-emulsifier may be present in a proportion ranging from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition used according to the invention may constitute a skincare composition, and especially a cleansing, protecting, medicated or care cream for the face, the hands, the feet, the major anatomical folds or the body (for example day creams, night creams, makeup-removing creams, foundation creams or antisun creams); a fluid foundation, a makeup-removing milk, a protective or care body milk or an antisun milk; a skincare lotion, gel or mousse, such as a cleansing lotion.
  • a cosmetic process for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone comprising application of the topical composition according to the present invention to the skin.
  • R1 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl), more preferably hydrogen;
  • R2 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl); preferably one of R2 and R3 is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
  • Example 1 Formulation examples
  • Phase INCI name % of ingredient by raw material (wt %)
  • CETYL ALCOHOL 1 .50 (KALCOL 6098 from
  • Normal human melanoyctes are grown and distributed in 384 plates. After incubation of 24 hours, the culture medium was replaced with 6 groups of medium containing the raw materials (Paeonia lactiflora root extract, ferulic acid or their associations) to be evaluated, as well as the positive control, lucinol . The cells were incubated 72 hours before final measurement of optical density which measures the amount of melanin produced by melanocytes.
  • the positive reference, Lucinol at the concentration of 1g/L inhibits the production of melanin by melanocytes with 100% depigmentation activity.
  • Paeonia lactiflora root extract alone shows no activity in this model at the concentration of 0.25 g/L (0% depigmentation activity); while ferulic acid shows a mild inhibitory effect at the concentration of 0.125 g/L (62% depigmentation activity).

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition topique comprenant la combinaison de l'extrait d'une plante de la famille des Paeoniaceae et au moins un composé de formule (I), et son utilisation pour prévenir ou réduire la pigmentation de la peau et/ou éclaircir le teint de la peau, Formule (I) dans laquelle R1, R2 et R3 sont tels que définis dans la description.
PCT/CN2013/078454 2013-06-28 2013-06-28 Composition de prévention ou de réduction de la pigmentation de la peau et d'éclaircissement du teint de la peau, et utilisations associées Ceased WO2014205813A1 (fr)

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PCT/CN2013/078454 WO2014205813A1 (fr) 2013-06-28 2013-06-28 Composition de prévention ou de réduction de la pigmentation de la peau et d'éclaircissement du teint de la peau, et utilisations associées
CN201380077851.XA CN105307626B (zh) 2013-06-28 2013-06-28 预防或减少皮肤色素沉着并且淡化肤色的组合物及其用途

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PCT/CN2013/078454 WO2014205813A1 (fr) 2013-06-28 2013-06-28 Composition de prévention ou de réduction de la pigmentation de la peau et d'éclaircissement du teint de la peau, et utilisations associées

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3033699A1 (fr) * 2015-03-16 2016-09-23 Crodarom Extrait de pivoine de chine, composition comprenant ledit extrait et utilisation cosmetique
JP2020093991A (ja) * 2018-12-11 2020-06-18 ロレアル 臭いがより少ない組成物
WO2022041217A1 (fr) * 2020-08-31 2022-03-03 L'oreal Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002013779A1 (fr) * 2000-08-14 2002-02-21 Zylepsis Limited Agents eclaircissants pour la peau
JP2004075645A (ja) * 2002-08-22 2004-03-11 Kanebo Ltd 化粧料
JP2004262853A (ja) * 2003-03-03 2004-09-24 Kanebo Ltd 化粧料
JP2004339141A (ja) * 2003-05-15 2004-12-02 Kanebo Ltd 皮膚化粧料
FR2953406A1 (fr) * 2009-12-08 2011-06-10 Oreal Nouvelle composition cosmetique destinee a ameliorer la couleur de la peau et utilisation d'agents anti-glycation pour eclaircir la carnation d'un sujet
KR20110101727A (ko) * 2010-03-09 2011-09-16 주식회사 엘지생활건강 주름 개선용 조성물

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2002013779A1 (fr) * 2000-08-14 2002-02-21 Zylepsis Limited Agents eclaircissants pour la peau
JP2004075645A (ja) * 2002-08-22 2004-03-11 Kanebo Ltd 化粧料
JP2004262853A (ja) * 2003-03-03 2004-09-24 Kanebo Ltd 化粧料
JP2004339141A (ja) * 2003-05-15 2004-12-02 Kanebo Ltd 皮膚化粧料
FR2953406A1 (fr) * 2009-12-08 2011-06-10 Oreal Nouvelle composition cosmetique destinee a ameliorer la couleur de la peau et utilisation d'agents anti-glycation pour eclaircir la carnation d'un sujet
KR20110101727A (ko) * 2010-03-09 2011-09-16 주식회사 엘지생활건강 주름 개선용 조성물

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3033699A1 (fr) * 2015-03-16 2016-09-23 Crodarom Extrait de pivoine de chine, composition comprenant ledit extrait et utilisation cosmetique
JP2020093991A (ja) * 2018-12-11 2020-06-18 ロレアル 臭いがより少ない組成物
WO2020122088A1 (fr) * 2018-12-11 2020-06-18 L'oreal Composition à odeur réduite
JP7292866B2 (ja) 2018-12-11 2023-06-19 ロレアル 臭いがより少ない組成物
WO2022041217A1 (fr) * 2020-08-31 2022-03-03 L'oreal Composition pour le soin des matières kératiniques

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CN105307626B (zh) 2018-11-13

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