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WO2014170876A1 - Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté à des applications de tissage - Google Patents

Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté à des applications de tissage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014170876A1
WO2014170876A1 PCT/IB2014/060834 IB2014060834W WO2014170876A1 WO 2014170876 A1 WO2014170876 A1 WO 2014170876A1 IB 2014060834 W IB2014060834 W IB 2014060834W WO 2014170876 A1 WO2014170876 A1 WO 2014170876A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fibers
filaments
chitosan
yarn
derivatives
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/IB2014/060834
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Elisabetta CANEPA
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from IT000649A external-priority patent/ITMI20130649A1/it
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Priority to EP14727233.0A priority Critical patent/EP2986772B1/fr
Priority to JP2016508279A priority patent/JP6504471B2/ja
Priority to HK16106811.6A priority patent/HK1218941A1/zh
Priority to CN201480021688.XA priority patent/CN105164333A/zh
Publication of WO2014170876A1 publication Critical patent/WO2014170876A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F11/00—Chemical after-treatment of artificial filaments or the like during manufacture
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/001—Treatment with visible light, infrared or ultraviolet, X-rays
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M10/00—Physical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. ultrasonic, corona discharge, irradiation, electric currents, or magnetic fields; Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/04—Physical treatment combined with treatment with chemical compounds or elements
    • D06M10/08—Organic compounds
    • D06M10/10—Macromolecular compounds
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/07—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof
    • D06M11/11—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with halogens; with halogen acids or salts thereof; with oxides or oxyacids of halogens or salts thereof with halogen acids or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/51—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof
    • D06M11/53—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with sulfur, selenium, tellurium, polonium or compounds thereof with hydrogen sulfide or its salts; with polysulfides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
    • D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process of making a yarn, preferably a thin yarn having suitability for weaving features, particularly a yarn having natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers, man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together.
  • weaving is generally used both for designating warp-and-weft weaving and knit-weaving .
  • the invention also relates to a yarn, preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
  • a yarn preferably a thin yarn, made of natural animal fibers, vegetable fibers, synthetic polymer fibers and/or man-made natural fibers, continuous filaments of animal origin and/or discontinuous filaments of animal origin, to be used in a pure state or blended together, obtained with such process.
  • - thin yarns are intended to cover yarns having a yarn count ranging from 40 to 200 Nm, and preferably a yarn count ranging from 65 to 200 Nm;
  • - animal fibers are intended to cover fleece or hair fibers (such as wool, alpaca, vicuna, cashmere and others) ;
  • continuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by reeling from whole cocoons (such as silk) ;
  • discontinuous filaments of animal origin are intended to cover filaments obtained by unravelling from defective cocoons (such as waste silk) ;
  • - vegetable fibers are intended to cover all the fibers obtained from plants, shrubs, inflorescences, roots, leaves (such as cotton, flax, hemp, jute, coir, ramie, bamboo, and others);
  • - synthetic polymer fibers are intended to cover, for example, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, polypropylene fibers, and others;
  • - man-made natural fibers are intended to cover, for example, rayon viscose, modal, acetate, cupro, tencel® and others.
  • the present invention is based on the problem of conceiving and providing a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features, which fulfills the above mentioned needs.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof in a process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features as defined in claim 25.
  • the fibers and/or filaments undergo a step of application of a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, and a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • Chitosan is a natural polymer derived from chitin, which is a protein contained in the exoskeleton of crustaceans, and is a nature-renewable material, since it is obtained from food industry by ⁇ products .
  • a reinforcement product based on chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, used as a sizing agent for the fibers and/or filaments has better sizing properties than other natural substances. For instance, the addition of 5 to 15% carboxymethyl chitosan concentrations in the sizing step has provided increases in toughness of cotton fabrics by up to 55%, with 3% reduction of elongation.
  • the core of the invention consists in overcoming a technical prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving: i.e. that the chitosan polymer may only be used to impart a temporary effect to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is designed to disappear after a first washing step or in other finishing steps.
  • the present invention provides crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, to ensure permanent adhesion of chitosan to the fibers and/or filaments, such that the beneficial effects of chitosan may be maintained with time.
  • the advantage of the step of crosslinking of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is that the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn are imparted a considerable physical-mechanical resistance, a long- lasting sanitization effect, resisting many repeated washes with hot and/or soapy water, as well as a considerable improvement in the affinity of the fibers and/or filaments.
  • the technique of crosslinking chitosan and/or its derivatives for application to the fibers and/or filaments of the yarn before weaving is used against the prejudice existing in the field of yarns and weaving, particularly for valuable yarns/fabrics such as cashmere or silk: i.e. that crosslinking of chitosan causes an undesired structural stiffening on the surface of the fibers and/or filaments of the yarns, which is unacceptable for valuable yarns/fabrics.
  • the fibers and filaments of the treated yarns are coated with a thin layer of reinforcement product, which is first crosslinked and then, if needed, mostly removed in a partial and calibrated manner, the rest of the crosslinked chitosan and/or derivatives thereof applied to the fibers and/or filaments maintaining its beneficial effects, as mentioned above.
  • the process of making a yarn having suitability for weaving features comprises the steps of:
  • the process is characterized in that it comprises:
  • a step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments said step of applying said reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments being carried out before spinning said fibers and/or said filaments, and - performing a subsequent step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments, such that a crosslinked reinforcement polymer is obtained from said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof, which is permanently anchored to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out after the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • a drying step is provided, for drying said fibers and/or said filaments as well as said reinforcement product, before crosslinking the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments.
  • said step of crosslinking of the chitosan and/or derivatives thereof of said reinforcement product applied to said fibers and/or to said filaments before the step of spinning the fibers is carried out by a step of UV exposure of said chitosan and/or derivatives thereof.
  • the process of the invention comprises a step of partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments, which is carried out before the step of spinning of said fibers and/or said filaments.
  • said partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments may be carried out after or at the same time as the spinning step.
  • said step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments is carried out by a hydrolyzing desizing step, and more preferably by immersion in a hydrolyzing desizing solution.
  • Such hydrolyzing desizing solution - provides enzymatic desizing or
  • said partial and calibrated desizing step which does not involve complete removal of the crosslinked polymer applied on the fibers, is at least partially carried out by mechanical desizing, whereby the fibers to be desized are physically acted upon by abrasion, rubbing, brushing and/or by treatments adapted to remove part of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer from the fibers, such as by ultrasonic treatment.
  • Such mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatment for partial and calibrated removal of the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan-derived polymer may be carried out on the yarn during weaving, e.g. by sliding the yarn in contact with special rigid surfaces.
  • These rigid surfaces may consist of the surfaces of the teeth of the weaving comb, eyelets through which the yarn is slid during weaving, surfaces of rollers contacted by the sliding yarn during the weaving step, bristles of a brush, and others .
  • These mechanical abrasion and/or rubbing treatments may be carried out on yarn fibers even after the weaving or knitting step, i.e. by directly acting upon the finished fabric or knit. In this case, these mechanical treatments are advantageously carried out by brushing the fabric or the knit.
  • the partial and calibrated mechanical desizing step for removing the crosslinked chitosan and/or chitosan- derived polymer from the fibers may be carried out by ultrasonic treatment of such fibers. Conveniently this may take place, for example, with the fibers immersed in a liquid in which an ultrasound-emitting probe is introduced.
  • the ultrasonic treatment of the fibers may be carried out at the same time as a step of weaving or finishing during which the fibers are already immersed in a bath, for example during a fiber washing or a fiber dyeing step before weaving of the yarn or the fabric or knit.
  • a partial and calibrated desizing step using ultrasounds may be carried out at the same time as a chemical or enzymatic desizing step, using the same bath, which will afford a synergy of effects between the different desizing steps.
  • the above mentioned step of partial and calibrated removal of said crosslinked reinforcement polymer from said fibers and/or said filaments will leave said crosslinked chitosan- derived reinforcement polymer on said fibers and/or said filaments, in an amount of 0.1-9% w/w based on the dry weight of said fibers and/or said filaments after said crosslinking step.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • various methods such as: foularding, spraying, dipping, aerosol, atomization and/or at least partial coating of the fibers and/or the filaments.
  • composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof is a solution comprising:
  • - chitosan preferably of low molecular weight, more preferably of 150,000 Da, degree of deacetylation 75-85%; viscosity 20-200 cps at a concentration range of 0.5-10% w/v, preferably 0.8-3% w/v, more preferably 1% w/v;
  • said acid aqueous solution comprises acetic acid at a concentration of 1.5-3.8% v/v, preferably at a concentration of 1.8-2.22% v/v, more preferably at a concentration of 2% v/v.
  • a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments
  • a bath ratio ranging from 1-7 to 1-35, more preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1-10 to 1-30, most preferably a bath ratio ranging from 1- 16 to 1-24.
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be advantageously carried out during said washing step;
  • processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a blending step in a blending chamber, then said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out in said blending chamber during said blending step;
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the carded fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the carding step;
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on the combed fibers and/or filaments, preferably immediately after the combing step;
  • processing steps for preparation to weaving comprise a step for preparation of a tuft, a top, a web, a ribbon and/or a roving
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said tuft, said top, said web, said ribbon or said roving, or
  • said step of applying a reinforcement product comprising a composition of chitosan and/or derivatives thereof to said fibers and/or to said filaments may be carried out on said fibers and/or said filaments before said dyeing step.
  • such yarn has a count ranging from 40 Nm to 200 Nm, preferably from 65 Nm to 200 Nm.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Polysaccharides And Polysaccharide Derivatives (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé pour fabriquer un fil, lequel procédé consiste, avant l'étape de tissage, à appliquer du chitosane aux fibres et/ou aux filaments du fil, puis à réticuler ce fil.
PCT/IB2014/060834 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté à des applications de tissage Ceased WO2014170876A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP14727233.0A EP2986772B1 (fr) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté au tissage
JP2016508279A JP6504471B2 (ja) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 製織機能への適合性を有する糸の製造方法
HK16106811.6A HK1218941A1 (zh) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 一种具有适於编织特性的纱线制造工艺
CN201480021688.XA CN105164333A (zh) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 一种具有适于编织特性的纱线制造工艺

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP13164379 2013-04-18
EP13164379.3 2013-04-18
IT000649A ITMI20130649A1 (it) 2013-04-19 2013-04-19 Procedimento per la produzione di un filato avente caratteristiche di idoneità alla tessitura
ITMI2013A000649 2013-04-19

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2014170876A1 true WO2014170876A1 (fr) 2014-10-23

Family

ID=50842277

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/IB2014/060834 Ceased WO2014170876A1 (fr) 2013-04-18 2014-04-18 Procédé pour fabriquer un fil adapté à des applications de tissage

Country Status (6)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2986772B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP6504471B2 (fr)
CN (1) CN105164333A (fr)
HK (1) HK1218941A1 (fr)
TR (1) TR201815472T4 (fr)
WO (1) WO2014170876A1 (fr)

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104562346A (zh) * 2015-01-20 2015-04-29 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 白椰壳炭天丝精梳棉衬衫面料及其织造方法
WO2015159262A1 (fr) * 2014-04-18 2015-10-22 Canepa S.P.A. Procédé destiné à améliorer les propriétés chimiques et/ou physiques d'un fil ou d'un tissu
US10174443B2 (en) 2011-10-19 2019-01-08 Canepa S.P.A. Process for improving weavability of a yarn

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2017514027A (ja) * 2014-04-15 2017-06-01 カネパ エス．ピー．エー． 中空構造天然繊維の化学的および／または物理的特性を向上させるプロセス
CN105421042B (zh) * 2016-01-15 2017-10-17 北京航空航天大学 一种轻质高强高韧单根绿色复合纤维及其制备方法
WO2019058966A1 (fr) * 2017-09-22 2019-03-28 日本エクスラン工業株式会社 Fibre à base d'acrylonitrile absorbant l'humidité, son procédé de fabrication et structure de fibre la contenant

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US10174443B2 (en) 2011-10-19 2019-01-08 Canepa S.P.A. Process for improving weavability of a yarn
WO2015159262A1 (fr) * 2014-04-18 2015-10-22 Canepa S.P.A. Procédé destiné à améliorer les propriétés chimiques et/ou physiques d'un fil ou d'un tissu
CN104562346A (zh) * 2015-01-20 2015-04-29 江苏悦达纺织集团有限公司 白椰壳炭天丝精梳棉衬衫面料及其织造方法

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP2986772B1 (fr) 2018-07-25
JP2016519728A (ja) 2016-07-07
HK1218941A1 (zh) 2017-03-17
EP2986772A1 (fr) 2016-02-24
CN105164333A (zh) 2015-12-16
TR201815472T4 (tr) 2018-11-21
JP6504471B2 (ja) 2019-04-24

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