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WO2014147038A2 - Procédé cosmétique pour traiter les cheveux faisant appel à une composition comprenant des particules creuses ou poreuses, un monoalcool et un polymère épaississant, et son utilisation - Google Patents

Procédé cosmétique pour traiter les cheveux faisant appel à une composition comprenant des particules creuses ou poreuses, un monoalcool et un polymère épaississant, et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2014147038A2
WO2014147038A2 PCT/EP2014/055341 EP2014055341W WO2014147038A2 WO 2014147038 A2 WO2014147038 A2 WO 2014147038A2 EP 2014055341 W EP2014055341 W EP 2014055341W WO 2014147038 A2 WO2014147038 A2 WO 2014147038A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
particles
composition
weight
hair
hollow
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2014/055341
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WO2014147038A3 (fr
Inventor
Samira Khenniche
Mélodie PERRIN
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Priority to BR112015021656A priority Critical patent/BR112015021656A2/pt
Publication of WO2014147038A2 publication Critical patent/WO2014147038A2/fr
Publication of WO2014147038A3 publication Critical patent/WO2014147038A3/fr
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/008—Preparations for oily hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic process for treating the hair with a composition comprising hollow or porous particles, a monoalcohol and a thickening polymer, and use thereof
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment process, using a cosmetic composition, especially a hair composition, comprising a combination of hollow or porous particles, thickening polymer and monoalcohol, and also to the haircare use of the said composition.
  • Hair has a tendency to lose some of its qualities due to the action of factors especially such as natural regreasing, sweat, the removal of squamae, pollution or humidity.
  • factors especially such as natural regreasing, sweat, the removal of squamae, pollution or humidity.
  • the visual appearance and the feel of the hair can thus be damaged.
  • Regreasing for example, makes the hair lank, which then has a tendency to clump together.
  • the hair may be increasingly difficult to style, and may have an unpleasant greasy sheen or an unpleasant waxy feel.
  • shampoos based on large amounts of anionic surfactants, may give rise to unpleasant effects such as stinging of the scalp or the eyes.
  • Shampoos may also be combined with surfactants or sebum absorbers for prolonging over time the perception of cleanliness of the hair.
  • the efficacy of these products is still insufficient with respect to consumer expectations. This is because they do not make it possible to significantly reduce the frequency of washing of the hair, which frequency can differ according to the country or even the region concerned and which can range from one to two shampoo washes per day to one or two shampoo washes per week.
  • a source of water preferably hot or warm water, is needed.
  • dry shampoos This technique consists in applying absorbent particles to the hair and then in actively brushing the head of hair to remove the particles therefrom.
  • the aim of the present invention is to propose such cosmetic compositions, the use of which makes it possible to overcome these drawbacks.
  • One subject of the invention is a cosmetic hair treatment process comprising the application to the hair of a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • one or more monoalcohols comprising 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 2 to 4 carbon atoms, the said monoalcohol(s) being present in the composition in an amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the said application step preferably not being followed by a rinsing step.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising:
  • one or more monoalcohols comprising 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 2 to 4 carbon atoms, present in an amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;
  • the said use preferably being leave-in use.
  • the use according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the regreasing of the hair, and thus the greasy look and greasy feel of the hair, and thus makes it possible to reduce the washing frequency and to lengthen the interval between shampoo washes.
  • compositions according to the invention make it possible to maintain a perception of clean hair for a longer time than with a normal shampoo; by way of example, this perception of clean hair can be a week, for people who usually wash their hair 2 to 3 times per week, and can be at least three days for people who usually wash their hair every day.
  • compositions according to the invention spread easily over the hair, from the end to the root, and thus allow better removal of soiling, over the entire head of hair.
  • the head of hair has a natural, soft, silky feel, and the hairs are better disentangled and shinier.
  • the head of hair is easy to shape and feels light.
  • composition according to the invention thus comprises particles chosen from hollow particles and porous particles, and also a mixture thereof.
  • the term “hollow particles” means particles formed from a solid envelope enclosing a space that is empty or partially or totally filled with one or more gases and/or one or more liquids (at room pressure and temperature, 1 atm., 25°C).
  • porous particles means particles with a structure comprising pores or interstices that are accessible to external agents.
  • the structure of the particles may be of matrix type like a sponge.
  • the porous particles according to the invention have a specific surface area measured via the BET method ranging especially from 1 to 1000 m 2 /g, in particular from 2 to 750 m 2 /g, more particularly greater than or equal to 300 m 2 /g or even greater than or equal to 500 m 2 /g.
  • the BET (Brunauer- Emmet-Teller) method is a method that is well known to those skilled in the art, and is described especially in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • the specific surface area measured according to the BET method corresponds to the total specific surface area, i.e. it includes the area formed by the pores.
  • the particles according to the invention have a mean particle size ranging from 10 to 300 microns ( ⁇ ), for example from 10 to 200 ⁇ , preferably from 10 to 100 ⁇ and better still from 15 to 40 m.
  • the particles according to the invention may have a density ranging from 0.0001 to 2; preferably, they have a density of less than 0.1 , especially less than 0.09, better still less than 0.06 and even better still less than 0.04; prefer- entially between 0.0001 and 0.04.
  • a gas may especially be air, nitrogen, isobutane or isopentane.
  • the particles are spherical or ovoid, preferably of spherical shape, and may be in the form of beads. It is, however, possible to use particles in the form of fibres or needles.
  • the particles may be made of various inert materials that do not react chemically with the medium; preferably, these particles do not react with the oils, surfactants, water or various other constituents of the cosmetic composition, such as the active agents.
  • the particles may be organic or mineral, preferably organic.
  • the particles that may be used in the context of the present invention may be dry or hyd rated.
  • the porous particles according to the invention may be chosen from silica (mi- cro)particles, crosslinked or non-crosslinked (meth)acrylic polymer particles, and polyamide particles, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic porous particles that may be used, mention may be made of polyamide particles, in particular Nylon 6, Nylon 6-6, Nylon 12 or Nylon 6-12, such as those sold by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol.
  • acrylic polymer porous particles such as poly- methyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles, which are especially spherical, such as those sold under the name Covabead® by the company LCW.
  • PMMA poly- methyl methacrylate
  • porous mineral particles mention may be made of silica particles, which are especially spherical, sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by the company Miyoshi or Sunsphere® H33 by the company Asahi Glass.
  • the hollow particles according to the invention may be chosen from glass parti- cles; polymer particles, especially of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, optionally thermoplastic, optionally expanded vinyl or (meth)acrylic polymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • glass particles that may be used, mention may be made of hollow glass par- tides and especially those sold by the company 3M under the reference Scotchlite Glass Bubbles S 22.
  • hollow polymer particles especially of crosslinked or non-crosslinked vinyl, preferably acrylic, polymer, mention may be made in particular of crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate particles, and especially those sold by the company Sunjin Chemical under the name SUNPMMA H.
  • the hollow particles may also be hollow particles of one or more expanded thermoplastic polymers. They may be advantageously chosen from hollow particles of expanded thermoplastic copolymers of acrylonitrile, of vinylidene chlo- ride, of vinyl chloride and/or of (meth)acrylic or styrene monomer.
  • the (meth)acrylic monomer is, for example, a C1 -C4 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate, especially methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate.
  • the styrene monomer is, for example, a-methylstyrene or styrene.
  • the particles according to the invention are particles of an expanded thermoplastic copolymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and a C1 -C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, or of styrene monomer.
  • the expanded polymer particles according to the invention are particles of an expanded copolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and a C1 -C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, especially of methyl or ethyl (meth)acrylate, and better still of methyl methacrylate.
  • the particles are hollow particles of an expanded polymer of vi- nylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate; with a mean particle size of from 10 to 300 ⁇ , for example from 10 to 200 ⁇ , preferably from 10 to 100 m and better still from 15 to 40 ⁇ ; preferably, the particles being hollow and optionally filled with a gas, chosen especially from air, nitrogen, isobutane and isopentane, preferentially isobutane.
  • a gas chosen especially from air, nitrogen, isobutane and isopentane, preferentially isobutane.
  • the mass per unit volume of these particles is chosen in the range from 15 to 200 kg/m 3 , better still from 40 to 120 kg/m 3 and even better still from 60 to 80 kg/m 3 .
  • the particles that may be used in the context of the invention may be micro- spheres of an expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, such as those sold under the brand name Expancel by the company Nobel Casco and in particular under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size D(0.5) of about 12 ⁇ and mass per unit volume of about 40 kg/m 3 ), 551 DE 20 (particle size D(0.5) of about 15 to 25 ⁇ and mass per unit volume of about 60 kg/m 3 ), 551 DE 50 (particle size D(0.5) of about 40 ⁇ ), 461 DE 50 and 642 WE 50 of about 50 ⁇ of particle size D(0.5), 551 DE 80 (particle size D(0.5) of about 50 to 80 ⁇ ).
  • 551 DE 12 particle size D(0.5) of about 12 ⁇ and mass per unit volume of about 40 kg/m 3
  • 551 DE 20 particle size D(0.5) of about 15 to 25 ⁇ and mass per unit volume of about 60 kg/
  • particles of this same expanded terpolymer with a particle size D(0.5) of about 18 ⁇ and a mass per unit volume of about 60 to 80 kg/m 3 (Expancel EL23) or with a particle size D(0.5) of about 34 ⁇ and a mass per unit volume of about 20 kg/m 3 .
  • the composition according to the invention comprises hollow particles, alone or as a mixture with porous particles.
  • the composition comprises hollow particles of one or more expanded thermoplastic polymers.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises the hollow particles and/or the porous particles in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight, especially ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight and better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more monoalcohols comprising 2 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 2 to 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched.
  • the term "monoalcohol” denotes, in a manner known per se, an alcohol comprising only one hydroxyl (-OH) function.
  • the monoalcohols according to the invention have the formula R-OH with R denoting a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon- based group comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • the monoalcohols that are particularly preferred are ethanol and isopropanol, and mixtures thereof; and most particularly, the monoalcohol is ethanol.
  • composition according to the invention comprises the monoalcohol(s) in an amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 35% by weight and better still from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more thickening polymers.
  • thickening polymer means a polymer having, in solution or in dispersion containing 1 % by weight of active material in water or in ethanol at 25°C, a viscosity greater than 0.2 poise at a shear rate of 1 s ⁇ 1 .
  • the viscosity is measured with a Haake RS600 viscometer from Thermo Electron. This viscometer is a controlled-stress viscometer with cone-plate geometry (for example having a diameter of 60 mm).
  • the said thickening polymer may be chosen from acrylic thickening polymers, thickening polymers bearing a sugar unit, and mixtures thereof.
  • acrylic polymer means a polymer resulting from a polymerization reaction using one or more monomers of structure:
  • R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl radical
  • R4 denoting a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1 -C4 alkyl radical, a radical NR5R6, or a linear or branched C1 -C30 alkoxy radical, the said radicals being optionally substituted with one or more OH radicals and/or with a quaternary ammonium radical
  • R5 and R6 denoting, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an optionally oxyalkylenated linear or branched C1 -C30 alkyl radical, optionally comprising a sulfonic group.
  • R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.
  • the acrylic thickening polymers that may be used in the present invention may be chosen from:
  • the term "associative thickener” means an am- phiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.
  • the (meth)acrylic associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.
  • nonionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention are chosen from:
  • C22)alkyl acrylates for instance the oxyethylenated methyl methacry- late/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208;
  • (meth)acrylates for instance polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacry- late copolymer.
  • R 1 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units, and in which the hydrophobic unit of (C10-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:
  • R 1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacry- late units) and preferably H or CH3; and R 2 denotes a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
  • (C10-C30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
  • anionic amphiphilic polymers are described, for example, in patents US-3 915 921 and 4 509 949.
  • anionic amphiphilic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention may more particularly denote polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
  • R 1 denotes H or CH3
  • R 2 denotes an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms
  • a crosslinking agent for instance those consisting of from 60% to 95% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of from 96% to 98% by weight of acrylic acid, 1 % to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer,
  • the said crosslinking agent is a monomer containing a group with at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not conjugated with each other. Mention may be made especially of polyallyl ethers, especially such as polyallyl sucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.
  • the ones that are most particularly preferred are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pe- mulen TR1 , Pemulen TR2 and Carbopol 1382, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1 , and the product sold by the company SEPC under the name Coatex SX.
  • fatty-chain anionic amphiphilic polymers mention may also be made of the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/ethoxylated alcohol di methyl -meta- isopropenylbenzylisocyanate copolymer in particular sold under the name Vis- cophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.
  • Fatty-chain anionic amphiphilic polymers that may also be mentioned include those comprising at least one acrylic monomer containing sulfonic group(s), in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic portion.
  • the hydrophobic portion present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the sulfonic polymers in accordance with the invention are partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanola- mine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • a mineral base sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia
  • organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanola- mine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • the sulfonic amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 1000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20 000 to 5 000 000 and preferentially from 100 000 to 1 500 000 g/mol.
  • Mn number-average molecular weight
  • the sulfonic amphiphilic polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
  • Crosslinked amphiphilic polymers are preferably selected.
  • the crosslinking agents may be selected from poly- olefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization. Mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, poly- glycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebis- methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethyl- enediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allyl
  • Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used more particularly.
  • the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
  • the acrylic monomers bearing sulfonic group(s) are chosen especially from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids and N-(Ci- C22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance undecy- lacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.
  • (Meth)acrylamido(Ci-C22)alkylsulfonic acids for instance acrylamidomethane- sulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido- 2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2- acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will more preferentially be used.
  • APMS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • amphiphilic polymers in accordance with the invention may be chosen especially from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00/31 154. These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, ⁇ -substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the preferred polymers of the invention are selected from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion containing from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, ⁇ - substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as (meth)acrylic acids, ⁇ - substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (IV) below:
  • the radical R2 is preferably selected from linear C6-C18 alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl or n-dodecyl radicals); branched or cyclic C6-C18 alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane (C12) or adamantane (C10)); C6-C18 alkylperfluoro radicals (for example the group of formula -(CH 2 )2- (CF 2 )9-CF 3 ); the cholesteryl (C2 7 ) radical or a cholesterol ester residue, such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; or polycyclic aromatic groups, such as naphthalene or pyrene.
  • these radicals the ones that are more particu- larly preferred are linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the n-dodecyl radi- cal.
  • the monomer of formula (IV) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x > 1 ) and preferably a polyoxyalkylenated chain.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated chain is preferentially formed from ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly formed from ethylene oxide units.
  • the number of oxyalkylenated units generally ranges from 3 to 100, preferentially from 3 to 50 and even more preferentially from 7 to 25.
  • n-(C6-Ci8)alkylacrylamide units such as those described in patent US-5 089 578.
  • copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Mor- ishima articles mentioned above.
  • X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion
  • x denotes an integer from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and preferentially from 7 to 25;
  • R1 has the same meaning as that indicated above in the formula (IV), and R4 denotes a linear or branched C6-C22 and preferentially C10-
  • the polymers for which X + denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.
  • the cationic associative thickening polymers according to the present invention may be chosen from polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.
  • the polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type of steareth-20 (poly- oxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol) or (Cio-C3o)alkyl PEG-20 itaconate.
  • amphoteric associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be chosen from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate copolymers, the alkyl radical preferably being a stearyl radical.
  • (c) Mention may be made, among crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and of C1-C6 alkyl acrylate, of the product sold under the name Viscoatex 538C by the company Coatex, which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 38% active material, or the product sold under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate as an aqueous dispersion containing 28% active material. Mention may be made more particularly of the crosslinked methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer in the form of an aqueous 30% dispersion manufactured and sold under the name Carbopol Aqua SF-1 by the company Noveon.
  • nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and/or amide type mention may be made of the products sold under the names Cyanamer P250 by the company Cytec (poly- acrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C by the company US Cosmetics (methyl methacry- late/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 by the company Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer); BPA 500 by the company Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate).
  • ammonium acrylate homopolymers examples include the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.
  • the (meth)acrylamido(C1 -C4)alkyl sulfonic acid homopolymers or copolymers are preferably crosslinked. More particularly, they are partially or totally neutralized. These are water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.
  • X + denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, including H+
  • the crosslinked and neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid) comprises from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (A) and from 0.5% to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.
  • X + represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline- earth metal, or an ammonium ion.
  • the crosslinking units containing at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetraallyloxyethane or other polyfunctional alcohol allyl or vinyl ethers, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylenebisacrylamide or divi- nylbenzene.
  • crosslinking units bearing at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the general formula (B) below:
  • Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl and more particularly methyl (trimethylolpropane triacrylate).
  • the crosslinked and partially or totally neutralized poly(2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acids) are generally known under the names Ammonium polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate or Ammonium polyacryldimethyltau- ramide (INCI name).
  • a product that is particularly preferred according to the invention is the one sold by the company Clahant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS; this is a crosslinked poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia.
  • crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C 4 )alkyltri(Ci- C 4 )alkylammonium salts mention may be made of the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or co- polymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acryla- mide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of the said co- polymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold especially under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • the acrylic thickening polymer(s) are chosen from crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • the polymers bearing sugar units according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. They may be nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic.
  • the base units of the polymers bearing sugar units of the invention may be monosaccharides or disaccharides.
  • sugar unit means a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula Cn(H 2 O) n- i or (CH 2 O) n , which may be optionally modified by substitution and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate.
  • a) tree or shrub exudates including:
  • gum arabic branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • - ghatti gum polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid
  • karaya gum polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rham- nose and glucuronic acid
  • tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
  • gums derived from algae including:
  • gums derived from seeds or tubers including:
  • locust bean gum polymer of mannose and galactose
  • microbial gums including:
  • - xanthan gum polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid
  • - gellan gum polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid
  • e) plant extracts including:
  • polymers may be physically or chemically modified.
  • a physical treatment that may especially be mentioned is the temperature.
  • Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation or oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.
  • these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
  • the nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hy- droxybutyl groups.
  • guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1 .2, and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
  • nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jag- uar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the guar gums modified with cationic groups that may be used more particularly according to the invention are guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with trialkylammonium cationic groups. Mention may very particularly be made, among these trialkylammonium groups, of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.
  • guar gums modified with 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 0131 307. Such products are moreover sold especially under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • a modified locust bean gum that may be used is cationic locust bean gum containing hydroxypropyltrimonium groups, such as Catinal CLB 200 sold by the company Toho.
  • the starch molecules used in the present invention may originate from any plant source of starch, especially cereals and tubers; more particularly, they are starches from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca.
  • the starch hydrolysates mentioned above may also be used.
  • the starch is preferably derived from potato.
  • the starches may be chemically or physically modified especially by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esteri- fication, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.
  • these reactions may be performed in the following manner: - pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);
  • Monostarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type Am-O- PO-(O-Am) 2 ) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, Am meaning starch and X especially denoting alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts, for instance those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1 ,2- propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.
  • alkali metals for example sodium or potassium
  • alkaline-earth metals for example calcium or magnesium
  • ammonium salts for instance those of monoethanol
  • the phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
  • Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).
  • a preferred starch is a starch that has undergone at least one chemical modifi- cation such as at least one esterification.
  • amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups may also be used.
  • the anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • amphoteric starches are especially chosen from the compounds having the following formulae:
  • St-O represents a starch molecule
  • R which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R' which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group
  • n is an integer equal to 2 or 3
  • M which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li or NH4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
  • R" represents a hydrogen atom or a C1 -C18 alkyl radical.
  • starches of formula (I la) or (Ilia); and preferen- tially starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid i.e. starches of formula (I la) or (Ilia) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2.
  • the preferred amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylami- dodipropionate.
  • the celluloses and cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.
  • cellulose esters examples include mineral cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates and phosphates), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetate butyrates, acetate propi- onates and acetate trimellitates), and mixed organic/mineral cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfates and cellulose acetate propionate sulfates.
  • mineral cellulose esters cellulose nitrates, sulfates and phosphates
  • organic cellulose esters cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetate butyrates, acetate propi- onates and acetate trimellitates
  • mixed organic/mineral cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfates and cellulose acetate propionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydroxypropyl- methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • nonionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxy- methylcelluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcellu- loses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcel- luloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxy- methylcelluloses and
  • anionic cellulose ethers mention may be made of carboxyalkylcellu- loses and salts thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxy- methylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and also the sodium salts thereof.
  • cationic cellulose ethers mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • the quaternizing agent may especially be diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example Celquat L200 from National Starch).
  • Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose (for example Ucare Polymer JR 400 from Amerchol).
  • the thickening polymers bearing sugar units may be associative.
  • associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units mention may be made of celluloses or derivatives thereof, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof in which the alkyl groups are of C8-C22; nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon; quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses (cationic), such as the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol, the products Crodacel QM and Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Croco
  • hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.
  • the polymers bearing sugar units according to the invention are non- ionic.
  • the polymer(s) bearing sugar units of the invention are preferably chosen from guar gums, locust bean gums, xanthan gums, starches and celluloses, in their modified form (derivatives) or unmodified.
  • the composition comprises at least one thickening polymer chosen from thickening polymers bearing sugar units.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise the thickening polymers) in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98% by weight, especially from 20% to 95% by weight and better still from 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents that are liquid at 25°C and 1 atm., preferably chosen from polyols such as propylene glycol or glycerol, and C3-C7 polyol ethers.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one common cosmetic ingredient, other than the compounds of the invention, chosen especially from propellants; vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; solid fatty substances and especially waxes, C8-C40 esters, C8-C40 acids; C8- C40 alcohols; nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants; anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants; sunscreens; moisturizers; anti- dandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair-relaxing agents, such as thiols and alkaline hydroxides; nacreous agents and opacifiers; plasticizer
  • the pH of the composition is preferably between 3 and 9 and especially between 3 and 6.
  • the compositions according to the invention may be in any galenical form conventionally used and especially in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous/alcoholic solution or suspension or oily solution or suspension; of a solution or a dispersion of the lotion or serum type; of an emulsion, in particular having a liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O/W, W/O or multiple type; of a suspen- sion or emulsion having a soft consistency of (O/W) or (W/O) cream type; of an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or of any other cosmetic form.
  • These compositions can be packaged in pump-action sprays or in aerosol containers, in order to provide for application of the composition in the vaporized (lacquer) form or in the form of a mousse.
  • the composition preferably comprises at least one propellant.
  • the cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed out after having been applied to the hair.
  • composition according to the invention to the hair between two shampoo washes, on wet hair or on dry hair, with or without a leave-in time, with or without heat, the said application optionally being followed by rinsing and drying, either at room temperature (25°C) or with a hair dryer or a straightening iron (250°C), for example.
  • the composition according to the invention is a leave-in composition, i.e., preferably, the application step is not followed by a step of rinsing, for example with water, especially in the hour(s) following the application.
  • the process according to the invention could most particularly also give the hair conditioning, while at the same time avoiding regreasing of the hair and/or keeping the hair cleaner.
  • the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention is preferably a hair treatment process for caring for and/or cleansing the hair, and in particular a process for slowing down, or even preventing, the regreasing of the hair and thus lengthening the interval between shampoo washes (grease-removal treat- ment).
  • the grease-removal process is a leave-in process (leave-in grease-removal treatment).
  • the process according to the invention comprises a step of applying the composition to the hair, the said application step not being followed by a rinsing step (leave-in application), for example with water, especially in the hour(s) (for example 1 to 24 hours) following the application.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for the grease-removal treatment of the hair, especially for slowing down, or even preventing, the regreasing of the hair, and/or for lengthening the interval between shampoo washes.
  • the said use is leave-in use (use as a leave-in grease-removal treatment), i.e. not followed by a rinsing step, for example with water, especially in the hour(s) (for example 1 to 24 hours) following the application of the composition to the hair.
  • compositions of this type to the hair makes it possible to significantly reduce the regreasing of the hair, and thus the greasy look and greasy feel of the hair, and thus makes it possible to reduce the washing frequency and to lengthen the interval between shampoo washes.
  • the following hair compositions are prepared (weight%):
  • composition is applied easily to the hair and is left to dry in the open applies and spreads easily along the entire length of the keratin fibre.
  • composition A above In a test performed on 15 consumers identifying themselves as having greasy hair, several leave-in applications of composition A above were performed in alternation with shampoo washes. The results show that the consumers perceive a marked grease-removal effect with less rapid regreasing of their hair, which remains light, disentangled and clean.
  • the following hair compositions are prepared (weight%):
  • composition 4 g are applied per half-head, to 25 volunteers.
  • the composition is massaged in so as to homogenize its distribution, and a panel of experts then makes an evaluation, 24 hours after application of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention thus makes it possible to limit the regreasing of the hair, when compared with a comparative composition, 24 hours after application.
  • the following hair compositions are prepared (weight%):
  • compositions are applied to a lock of natural Caucasian hair (0.5 g of composition per g of hair); the composition is spread over the entire length of the lock.
  • the locks are suspended and an excess of sebum is applied locally. The rate of migration of the sebum over the locks after 24 hours of application is observed.
  • compositions according to the invention allow a reduction in the rate of migration of the sebum over natural locks, when compared with the comparative composition.

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Abstract

Cette invention concerne un procédé cosmétique pour traiter les cheveux comprenant l'application d'une composition cosmétique comprenant des particules creuses et/ou poreuses ayant une taille de particule moyenne de 10 à 300 microns, des polymères épaississants et des monoalcools comprenant de 2 à 6 atomes de carbone, présents en une quantité de 5 à 40 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Ce procédé permet en particulier de ralentir voire de prévenir le regraissage des cheveux.
PCT/EP2014/055341 2013-03-19 2014-03-17 Procédé cosmétique pour traiter les cheveux faisant appel à une composition comprenant des particules creuses ou poreuses, un monoalcool et un polymère épaississant, et son utilisation Ceased WO2014147038A2 (fr)

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FR1352438A FR3003464B1 (fr) 2013-03-19 2013-03-19 Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules creuses ou poreuses, un monoalcool et un polymere epaississant, procedes de traitement cosmetique et utilisations
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