WO2014083116A2 - Composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a visually distinct aqueous phase and fatty phase, the fatty phase having a thermal transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°c - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a composition comprising a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the fatty phase and the aqueous phase being visually distinct, the aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and the fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C. The subject of the invention is also the use of this composition in the cosmetics or dermatology field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for hair care. The present invention makes it possible to prepare compositions of which the two aqueous and oily phases are visually distinct, of which the dispersion of the two phases with respect to one another is stable over time, and which do not require a particular production or packaging process. Moreover, the composition according to the invention has advantageous cosmetic properties.

Description

Composition comprising a superabsorbent polymer and a visually distinct aqueous phase and fatty phase, the fatty phase having a thermal transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C The present patent application relates to a composition for topical application comprising a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the fatty phase and the aqueous phase being visually distinct, the aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and the fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetics and dermatology fields, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for hair care.

In the cosmetics field, it is advantageous to have products comprising two phases, one aqueous and the other oily. The coexistence of these two phases makes it possible to obtain a good performance level, and also good comfort and advantageous sensory properties.

Current cosmetic compositions are usually in the form of an emulsion of the oil-in-water (O/W) type consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase, or of an emulsion of the water-in-oil (W/O) type consisting of an oily dispersing continuous phase and an aqueous dispersed discontinuous phase. O/W emulsions are the ones most sought in the cosmetics field, since they comprise an aqueous phase as the external phase, which gives them, when applied to the skin, a fresher, less greasy and lighter feel than W/O emulsions.

More recently, products have been developed in which the two oily and aqueous phases are visually distinct.

These products may be in the form of a two-phase system, the oily phase being above the aqueous phase. In order to be used, this type of product must be homogenized before use by the consumer, since the dispersion of one phase in the other phase is not stable over time. The latter action does not guarantee the composition of the product applied to the skin and therefore its properties and its effectiveness.

There are also systems which consist of two phases which are structured and prepared separately, and then brought into contact in the packaging, in various forms (propellers, lines, etc). This type of product, as described in patent application US 2006/0078524 for example, has the advantage of having a dispersion of one phase in the other phase which is stable over time, and therefore ensured effectiveness. Nevertheless, it requires a particular packaging process which is expensive and lengthy.

- There remains therefore the need to prepare compositions of which the two aqueous and oily phases are visually distinct, of which the dispersion of the two phases with respect to one another is stable over time, and which do not require a particular production or packaging process.

The applicant has discovered that the choice of an aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and of a fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C makes it possible to obtain compositions which comprise an aqueous phase and a fatty phase which are visually distinct, and which do not have the drawbacks of those of the prior art.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a composition comprising a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the fatty phase and the aqueous phase being visually distinct, the aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and the fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C.

Since the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or the skin appendages, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratin fibres (such as the hair or the eyelashes).

The present invention makes it possible to prepare compositions of which the two aqueous and oily phases are visually distinct, of which the dispersion of the two phases with respect to one another is stable over time, and which do not require a particular production or packaging process. Moreover, the composition according to the invention has advantageous cosmetic properties, such as good comfort on application, a feeling of freshness, good skin moisturization, and good spreading.

As emerges from the description of the technical problem and from Examples A to U of the description, the distinction of the two aqueous and oily phases, in the composition in accordance with the invention, is done visually, on a macroscopic scale, i.e. with the naked eye. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, the expression "the two aqueous and oily phases are visually distinct" is intended to mean that the oil globules dispersed in the aqueous phase are visually distinct with the naked eye.

The subject of the invention is also the use of said composition in the cosmetics or dermatological field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for hair care.

In that which follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range.

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least water. According to the galenical form of the composition, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 50% to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% to 99% by weight and better still from 80% to 97% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the galenical form of the composition desired. The amount of water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight and better still at least 60% by weight.

The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents. Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned, for example, include carboxyvinyl polymers such as the Carbopol® products (carbomers) and the Pemulen products (acrylate/Ci₀-C₃o-alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for instance the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; cellulose-based derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof; sodium polyacrylates such as the product which is sold under the name Cosmedia SP^® by the company Cognis; polymers comprising at least one monomer comprising a sulfonic group, such as the monomer of 2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid, in particular the product which is sold under the name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant or those which are sold under the name Aristoflex® by the company Clariant.

Superabsorbent polymers

The term "superabsorbent polymer" is intended to mean a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and in particular distilled water. Such superabsorbent polymers are described in the publication "Absorbent polymer technology, Studies in polymer science

8" by L. Brannon-Pappas and R. Harland, published by Elsevier, 1990.

These polymers have a large capacity for absorbing and retaining water and aqueous fluids. After absorption of the aqueous liquid, the polymer particles thus engorged with aqueous fluid remain insoluble in the aqueous fluid and thus conserve their individualized particulate state.

The superabsorbent polymer may have a water-absorbing capacity ranging from 20 to 2000 times its own weight (i.e. 20 g to 2000 g of absorbed water per gram of absorbent polymer), preferably from 30 to 1500 times and better still from 50 to 1000 times. These water absorption characteristics are defined under normal temperature (25°C) and pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 100000 Pa) conditions and for distilled water. The value of the water-absorbing capacity of a polymer may be determined by dispersing 0.5 g of polymer(s) in 150 g of a water solution, waiting for 20 minutes, filtering the unabsorbed solution through a 150 μηη filter for 20 minutes and weighing the unabsorbed water.

The superabsorbent polymer used in the composition of the invention is in the form of particles. Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer has, in the dry or nonhydrated state, an average size of less than or equal to 100 μηι, preferably less than or equal to 50 μηι, ranging for example from 10 to 100 μηη, preferably from 15 to 50 μηη, and better still from 20 to 30 μπι.

The average size of the particles corresponds to the weight-average diameter (D₅₀) measured by laser particle size analysis or another equivalent method known to those skilled in the art.

Once hydrated, these particles swell, forming soft particles which have an average size that can range from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη, preferentially from 20 μηη to 500 μηη and even more preferentially from 50 μηη to 400 μηη.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are in the form of spherical particles.

Mention may be made in particular of absorbent polymers chosen from:

- crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, for instance those sold under the names Octacare X100, X1 10 and RM100 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals, those sold under the names Flocare GB300 and Flosorb 500 by the company SNF, those sold under the names Luquasorb 1003, Luquasorb 1010, Luquasorb 1280 and Luquasorb 1 1 10 by the company BASF, those sold under the names Water Lock G400 and G430 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium acrylate copolymer) by the company Grain Processing, or else Aquakeep® 10 SH NF proposed by the company Sumitomo Seika,

- starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular with sodium polyacrylate, such as those sold under the name Sanfresh ST-100MC by the company Sanyo Chemical Industries or Makimousse 25 or Makimousse 12 by the company Daito Kasei (INCI name: Sodium polyacrylate starch),

- hydrolyzed starches grafted with an acrylic polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) and in particular acryloacrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer, such as those sold under the names Water Lock A-240, A-180, B-204, D-223, A-100, C-200 and D-223 by the company Grain Processing (INCI name: Starch/acrylamide/sodium acrylate copolymer),

- polymers based on starch, on gum and on cellulose derivative, such as the product containing starch, guar gum and sodium carboxymethylcellulose, sold under the name

Lysorb 220 by the company Lysac,

- and mixtures thereof. The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention may be crosslinked or noncrosslinked. They are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

The superabsorbent polymers used in the present invention are preferably crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers, which are preferably neutralized, and which are in particulate form.

Preferably, the superabsorbent polymer is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles with an average size (or average diameter) of less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of spherical particles. These polymers preferably have a capacity for absorbing water containing 0.9% of NaCI of from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from 20 to 80 g/g and better still from 30 to 80 g/g.

The superabsorbent polymer(s) may be present in the composition of the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, or even from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase

The proportion of the fatty phase in the composition in accordance with the invention can range, for example, from 1 % to 50% by weight, preferentially from 1 % to 30% by weight and better still from 3% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. This indicated amount does not comprise the content of lipophilic surfactants.

The fatty phase has at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C.

The thermal transitions of the fatty phase are evaluated by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry), using a DSC Q100 from TA Instruments equipped with a refrigeration system and a nitrogen stream. The measurements were carried out on samples of 5 mg of fatty phase. The capsule containing the sample and the reference capsule are subjected to a first temperature increase from 20°C to 85°C at a rate of 5°C per minute, and then a decrease from 85°C to -20°C at a rate of 5°C per minute and, finally, a second increase from -20°C to 85°C at a rate of 5°C per minute.

The difference in the heat flow between the sample capsule and the reference capsule is plotted as a function of the temperature. On the basis of this curve, it is possible to evaluate the crystallization point (evaluated during the decrease in temperature), the melting point and the enthalpy of fusion (which are evaluated during the second increase in temperature), which are defined as being:

- melting/crystallization point (Mp/Cp in °C): temperature at minimum/maximum of heat flow, for a phase transition studied; - phase transition enthalpy (ΔΗί/ΔΗο in J/g): area under the peak of the transition studied, standardized by the weight of the sample analyzed.

For samples exhibiting a polymorphism, or several phase transitions, the values for each of the transitions will be considered.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention has at least one thermal melting transition as described previously, at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C. According to one particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention has at least one thermal melting transition, as described previously, at a temperature between 35°C and 120°C.

Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention has at least one thermal melting transition, as described previously, at a temperature between 35°C and 85°C.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may have other phase transitions of melting type at temperatures below 25°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the fatty phase includes any fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or which is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, which are present in said composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the initial melting point of the pasty fatty substance may be less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance, measured at 23°C, may represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% by weight and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.

For the purpose of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard

ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments, with a temperature increase of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 1 1357- 3:1999.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. When the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32°C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C. The pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty substances of vegetable origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

- lanolin and derivatives thereof,

polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythrityl ethers of a polyalkylene glycol, fatty alkyl ethers of a sugar, and mixtures thereof, the pentaerythrityl ether of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene units (5 OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the pentaerythrityl ether of polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soya bean oil mixture, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, in which mixture the constituents are in a 46/46/8 ratio by weight: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soya bean oil,

- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,

polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,

vinyl polymers, in particular:

^■ olefin homopolymers and copolymers,

^■ hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

■ linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl

(meth)acrylates preferably containing a C₈-C₃o alkyl group,

^■ homopolymeric and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,

^■ homopolymeric and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl ethers containing C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups,

liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C₂- Cioo and preferably C₂-C₅o diols,

esters,

and/or mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon-based polymer.

Among the liposoluble polyethers that are particularly preferred are copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with C₆-C₃₀ long-chain alkylene oxides, more preferably such that the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and/or of the propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as the long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight from 1000 to 10000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Preference is given in particular, among the esters, to:

- esters of a glycerol oligomer, in particular diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols has reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol,

- arachidyl propionate, sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

phytosterol esters,

fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof,

pentaerythritol esters,

esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, where appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY/IS- DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof,

mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AarhusKarlshamn,

hydrogenated soya bean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as the soya bean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel^® by the company AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil),

shea butter, in particular that having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under the reference Sheasoft^® by AarhusKarlshamn,

- cocoa butter, in particular the product which is sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by the company Dutch Cocoa BV or the product which is sold under the name Beurre De Cacao NCB HD703 758 by the company Barry Callebaut,

shorea butter, in particular the product which is sold under the name Dub Shorea T by the company Stearinerie Dubois,

- babassu oil; murumuru butter; cupuacu butter;

and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, the pasty fatty substance is chosen from a mixture of hydrogenated soya bean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oils, shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly those referenced above.

The waxes under consideration in the context of the present invention are generally deformable or non-deformable solid lipophilic compounds at ambient temperature (25°C) which exhibit a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C. On bringing one or more waxes in accordance with the invention to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to render it or them miscible with one or more oils and to form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of wax(es) and oil(s) but, on bringing the temperature of said mixture back to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax(es) in the oil(s) of the mixture is obtained.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally it is subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.

The waxes capable of being used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and mixtures thereof, which are solid at ambient temperature. They can be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and/or silicone waxes.

Mention may in particular be made, by way of examples, of hydrocarbon-based waxes, such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda, candelilla wax, such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes, such as, for example, the microcrystalline waxes having a melting point of greater than 85°C, such as the products HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 sold by Nippon Seiro, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins having a melting point of less than 40°C, such as the product EMW-0003 sold by Nippon Seiro, oolefin oligomers, such as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene/propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, polyethylene waxes (preferably with a molecular weight of between 400 and 600), Fischer-Tropsch waxes or the sunflower seed wax sold by Koster Keunen under the reference Sunflower Wax. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes, such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, or fluorinated waxes.

According to a specific embodiment, the wax used in a composition in accordance with the invention exhibits a melting point of greater than 35°C, better still of greater than 40°C, indeed even of greater than 45°C or also of greater than 55°C.

According to one preferred embodiment, the wax(es) is (are) chosen from polymethylene waxes; beeswax; vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax; the mixture of polyglycerolated (3 mol) vegetable waxes (mimosa / jojoba / sunflower) sold under the name Hydracire S by the company Gattefosse; the hydrogenated castor oil sold under the name Antisettle CVP by the company Cray Valley; microcrystalline waxes, such as the product which is sold under the name Microwax HW by the company Paramelt.

The fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one oil. The oil(s) present in the composition may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "oil" is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.

The volatile or non-volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.

Non-volatile oils

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil having a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).

The non-volatile oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, if appropriate fluorinated, and/or non-volatile silicone oils. Mention may in particular be made, as non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil suitable for use in the invention, of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytosteryl esters, such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytosteryl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C₄ to C₂₄, it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soya bean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkinseed oil, cucumber oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810^®, 812^® and 818^® by Dynamit Nobel; or the refined vegetable perhydrosqualene sold under the name Fitoderm by Cognis;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as, for example:

• synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

· linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid petroleum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, such as Parleam, squalane and mixtures thereof, in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene;

• synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RiCOOR₂ in which R-i represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R-i + R₂ is > 10.

The esters can in particular be chosen from esters, in particular fatty acid esters, such as, for example:

• cetearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4- diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, benzoates of Ci₂ to Ci₅ alcohols, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, or hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl malate, ❖ polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as d i pentaeryth rity I tetra hyd roxystearate/tetra isostea rate ,

• esters of dimer diols and of dimer diacids, such as Lusplan DD-DA5^® and Lusplan DD-DA7^®, sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR 03 02809,

· fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,

• higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, and

• dialkyl carbonates, it being possible for the two alkyl chains to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,

• non-volatile silicone oils, such as, for example, non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes and (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof;

- and mixtures thereof.

Volatile oils

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a nonzero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^"3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C₈-Ci₆ alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar^® or Permethyl^® trade names.

Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 ^χ 10^"6 m²/s), and in particular containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use a mixture of the oils mentioned above. The other fatty substances which can be present in the fatty phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid, or fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (cetearyl alcohol).

The various fatty substances as defined previously can be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art such that the fatty phase has at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, and so as to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or of texture.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty phase comprises at least one wax and at least one oil.

Preferably, the fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based wax. The fatty phase can also contain other compounds dissolved in the fatty phase, such as gelling agents and/or structuring agents. These compounds can in particular be chosen from modified clays, such as hectorite and derivatives thereof, such as the products sold under the Bentone names; gums, such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl(Ci-C₄)alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone, silicone elastomers, for instance the products sold under the "KSG" names by the company Shin-Etsu, under the "Trefil" name by the company Dow Corning or under the "Gransil" names by the company Grant Industries; semi-crystalline polymers, such as the product sold under the names Intelimer I PA-1 and Intelimer I PA13-6 by the company Air Products and Chemicals; dextrin palmitates, such as Rheopearl KL2 - OR from Chiba Flour Milling; and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one gelling and/or structuring agent chosen from semi- crystalline polymers, such as the products sold under the names Intelimer I PA-1 and Intelimer I PA13-6 by the company Air Products and Chemicals, and dextrin palmitates, such as Rheopearl KL2 - OR from Chiba Flour Milling; and mixtures thereof.

The composition in accordance with the invention is prepared according to the usual methods.

It is in the form of a direct emulsion or of a dispersion and can have the appearance of a gel with white or coloured visible particles in a dispersion, this gel possibly being more or less fluid.

The composition preferably has a skin-friendly pH which generally ranges from 3 to 8 and preferably from 5.5 to 8.

The composition may contain at least one emulsifier (or surfactant). Said emulsifiers may be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.

The emulsifier(s) is (are) generally present in an amount between 0% and 10% by weight and preferably from 0% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, the content of surfactants is between 0% and 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition and even more preferentially between 0% and 1 % by weight.

When they are present in the composition, the emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.02% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the content of surfactants is low, preferably less than 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition and even more preferentially less than 1 % by weight.

Examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers can also be added thereto. The coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company I CI , sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company I CI , and mixtures thereof.

Examples of emulsifiers that may also be mentioned include non-ionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives containing oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as the glyceryl esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the polyethylene glycol esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; the sorbitol esters of C₈-C₂4 fatty acids, and the oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof; fatty alcohol ethers; the sugar ethers of C₈-C₂4 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made, as glyceryl esters of fatty acids, of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made, as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids, of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and mixtures thereof.

Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

Mention may be made, as fatty alcohol ethers, for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Mention may be made, for example, of ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, as examples of sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers, of methyl glucose isostearate, sold under the name Isolan-IS by the company Degussa Goldschmidt, or else sucrose distearate, sold under the name Crodesta F50 by the company Croda, and sucrose stearate, sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by the company Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.

Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and salts thereof, such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, for instance monosodium stearoyi glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF, and disodium stearoyi glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P, by the company Ajinomoto, and also hydrophobically modified inulins, such as Inutec SP1 sold by the company Beneo Bio Based Chemicals.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition is free of surfactant.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one surfactant chosen from hydrophobically modified inulins. In particular, the composition comprises a hydrophobically modified inulin as predominant surfactant. Preferably, the composition in accordance the invention comprises a hydrophobically modified inulin as sole surfactant.

In the context of the present invention, the term "predominant surfactant" is intended to mean the fact that, in the case where the composition comprises additional surfactants other than a hydrophobically modified inulin, these are always each present in an amount by weight which is lower than the amount by weight of the hydrophobically modified inulins. According to the invention, the term "hydrophobically modified inulin" is in particular intended to mean an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of said inulin. Inulin is part of the fructan family.

Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with several saccharide residues other than fructose. Fructans may be linear or branched. Fructans may be products obtained directly from a vegetable or microbial source or alternatively products whose chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic.

Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60.

Three groups of fructans are distinguished. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are for the most part linked via β-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins.

The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via β-2-6 bonds. These products are levans.

The third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing β-2-6 and β-2-1 sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans.

Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke. In the context of the present invention, the hydrophobiclly modified inulin is preferentially obtained from chicory.

The inulins used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobically modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.

The hydrophobic chains that may be grafted onto the main chain of the fructan may in particular be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chains containing from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon- based or organopolysiloxane chains may in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide functions in particular such as methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobically modified inulin(s) used in the context of the invention are inulins bearing hydrophobic groups chosen from hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups.

The term "hydrophobic carbamate group" is intended to mean a C4-C32 alkyl carbamate group, i.e. a group -OCONH-R, R being a C4-C32 alkyl.

The term "hydrophobic ester group" is intended to mean a C4-C32 alkyl ester group, i.e. a group -OCO-R, R being a C4-C32 alkyl.

These hydrophobic groups are in particular derived from the reaction of the hydroxyl groups of the starting inulin with either an isocyanate R-N=C=0 (to form a carbamate group) or an acid R-COOH or acid chloride R-COCI (to form an ester group).

In particular, the inulin has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1000, preferably from 2 to about 100 and even more preferentially from 2 to about 70, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of a fructose unit.

Advantageously, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C₆-C₂o alkyl carbamate group. Preferably, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C₈-Ci₈ alkyl carbamate group. Preferentially, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C10-C18 alkyl carbamate group. More preferentially, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a C10-C14 alkyl carbamate group.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic carbamate group is a lauryl carbamate group (C12 alkyl group).

Inulins bearing hydrophobic carbamate groups are described, for example, in patent application WO 99/64549.

Advantageously, the hydrophobic ester group is a C₆-C₂o alkyl ester group. Preferably, the hydrophobic ester group is a C₈-C₂o alkyl ester group. Preferentially, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C20 alkyl ester group. More preferentially, the hydrophobic ester group is a C10-C18 alkyl ester group.

Inulins bearing hydrophobic ester groups are described, for example, in patent US 5 877 144.

In particular, the hydrophobic groups of inulin are chosen from C4-C32 alkyl carbamate or C4-C32 alkyl ester groups, preferably from C10-C18 alkyl carbamate or Ci₀-Ci₈ alkyl ester groups.

Preferably, an inulin bearing hydrophobic carbamate groups is used.

The inulin bearing hydrophobic carbamate or ester groups may have a degree of substitution (proportion of OH of the inulin substituted with a hydrophobic group) ranging from 0.01 to 0.5, preferably ranging from 0.02 to 0.4 and preferentially ranging from 0.05 to 0.35. Advantageously, the degree of substitution may range from 0.1 to 0.3.

As examples of inulins bearing hydrophobic ester groups, mention may be made of stearoyl inulin, such as the products sold under the names Lifidrem INST^® by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl INS^® by the company Ciba; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin, such as the products sold under the names Lifidrem INUK^® and Lifidrem INUM^® by the company Engelhard.

An example of an inulin bearing hydrophobic carbamate groups that may be mentioned is inulin lauryl carbamate, such as the product sold under the name Inutec SP1^® by the company Beneo. Preferably, the hydrophobically modified inulin in the composition of the invention is based on chicory inulin and in particular is inulin lauryl carbamate.

In a known manner, all the compositions of the invention may contain one or more of the adjuvants that are common in the cosmetics and dermatology fields: moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers; sequestrants; antioxidants; preserving agents; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; colorants (pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide, nacres, soluble dyes), and fillers; and mixtures thereof.

The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.1 % to 20% and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Active agents

The composition of the invention may comprise one or more active agents chosen, for example, from moisturizing agents, such as protein hydrolysates and polyols, for instance glycerol, glycols, for instance polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; anti-inflammatory agents; oligomeric proanthocyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; o hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) or 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban); tensioning agents; ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as 5,6-di-O- dimethylsilyl ascorbate (sold by the company Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-2l-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by the company Roche under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise at least one UV-screening agent which may be chosen from hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic screening agents and/or inorganic pigments. It will preferentially consist of at least one hydrophilic, lipophilic or insoluble organic UV-screening agent.

The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more fillers. Mention may, for example, be made of pigments such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide or iron oxide and organic pigments; kaolin; silica; talc; boron nitride; organic spherical powders, fibres; and mixtures thereof. Mention may be made, as spherical organic powders, for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders, such as Nylon-1 or Polyamide 12 powder, sold under the Orgasol names by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by the company Dow Corning under the Polytrap name; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the Expancel name by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the Tospearl name by the company Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the Flobeads name by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; powders formed of natural organic materials, such as powders formed of starch, in particular of corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch, which may or may not be crosslinked, such as the powders formed of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, sold under the Dry-Flo name by the company National Starch. Mention may be made, as fibres, for example, of polyamide fibres, such as in particular Nylon 6 (or Polyamide 6) (INCI name: Nylon 6) fibres, Nylon 6,6 (or Polyamide 66) (INCI name: Nylon 66) fibres, or such as poly(p-phenylene terephthamide) fibres; and mixtures thereof. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one filler.

Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition. The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are given as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise mentioned. The names of the compounds are shown as INCI names.

EXAMPLES

The formulae defined below were prepared according to the following protocol:

Heat the aqueous phase A1 to 75°C and then disperse the phase A2 therein with a deflocculating device;

Heat the fatty phase B1 to 75°C and add the phase B2 thereto;

Emulsify the fatty phase (B1 + B2) in the aqueous phase (A1 + A2) with a deflocculating device;

Cool to 25°C and then add the phase C and the phases D and E if they exist.

EXAMPLES A to E

The macroscopic appearance of the formulae and the presence of a microscopic fatty phase dispersion are evaluated visually at 24 hours.

The thermal transitions of the fatty phases are evaluated according to the protocol described previously. Interest is focused here on the melting points Mp and the enthalpies of fusion ΔΗί.

A B C

Phase Composition

(invention) (comparative) (invention)

A1 Water qs qs qs

A1 Propanediol 5 5. 5

A1 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1

A2 Glycerol 7 7 7

Sodium acrylates crosspolymer- 2 (and) water (and) silica

A2 0.8 0.8 0.8

(Aquakeep® 10 SH NF sold by

the company Sumimoto Seika)

Dicaprylyl carbonate

B1 4 4 4

(Cetiol CC from Cognis)

Cera alba

B1 2 - -

(Cerabeil Lor from Baerlocher)

Theobroma cocoa butter

B1 (Deodorized cocoa butter from - 2 2

Dutch Cocoa BV)

Poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate

B1 - - 1

Intelimer (I PA 13-6 from Air Products and

Chemicals)

Inulin lauryl carbamate

B1 (Inutec SP1 from Beneo Bio 0.1 0.1 0.1

Based Chemicals)

B1 Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7

Nylon-12

B2 (Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS 0.996 0.996 0.996

from Arkema)

B2 Dye(s) 0.004 0.004 0.004

C Denatured Alcohol 7 7 7

Acrylates copolymer

D (Carbopol aqua SF-1 Polymer 0.7 0.7 0.7

from Lubrizol)

E Water 1 1 1

E Triethanolamine 0.08 0.08 0.08

Compositions A and C according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase. Composition B, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, but a fatty phase which does ot have a melting peak above 25°C, is a homogeneous cream, the fatty phase of which not visually distinguished.

Composition D according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibits a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase. Composition E, containing a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, but no superabsorbent polymer (replaced in this case with a crosslinked acrylic polymer), is a homogeneous cream, the fatty phase of which is not visually distinguished.

EXAMPLES F to T

The macroscopic appearance of the formulae and the presence of a microscopic fatty phase dispersion are evaluated visually at 24 hours.

A F G H I

Phase Composition

(invention) (invention) (invention) (invention) (invention)

A1 Water qs qs qs qs qs

A1 Propanediol 5 5 5 5 5

A1 Tetrasodium

0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 EDTA

A2 Glycerol 7 7 7 7 7

Sodium acrylates

crosspolymer-2

(and) water (and)

silica

A2 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8

(Aquakeep® 10

SH NF from the

company

Sumimoto Seika)

B1 Dicaprylyl

carbonate

4 4 4 4 4

(Cetiol CC from

Cog n is)

B1 Inulin lauryl

carbamate

(Inutec SP1 from 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Beneo Bio Based

Chemicals)

B1 Cera alba

2 - - - - (Cerabeil Lor from Baerlocher)

B1 Copernicia

Cerifera Cera

- 2 - - - (Cerauba T1 from

Baerlocher)

B1 Cera

Microcristallina

- - 2 - - (Microwax HW

from Paramelt)

B1 Oryza Sativa

Cera

- - - 2 -

(NC 1720 from

Cera Rica Noda)

B1 Hydrogenated

stearyl olive

esters

- - - - 2

(Phytowax olive

18 L 57 from

Sophim)

B1 Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7

B2 Nylon-12

(Orgasol 2002

0.996 0.996 0.996 0.996 0.996 EXD NAT COS

from Arkema)

B2 Dye(s) 0.004 0.004 0.004 0.004 0.004

C Denatured

7 7 7 7 7 Alcohol

D Acrylates

copolymer

(Carbopol aqua 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 SF-1 Polymer

from Lubrizol)

E Water 1 1 1 1 1

E Triethanolamine 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08 0.08

A F G H I

Evaluation

(invention) (invention) (invention) (invention) (invention)

Macroscopic Gel with Gel with Gel with Gel with Gel with appearance visible fatty- visible fatty- visible fatty- visible fatty- visible fatty- phase phase phase phase phase globules globules globules globules globules

Super- Super- Super- Super- Super- absorbent absorbent absorbent absorbent absorbent beads with beads with beads with beads with beads with

Microscopic macro- macro- macro- macro- macro- appearance dispersion dispersion dispersion dispersion dispersion

(~ 1 mm) of (~ 1 mm) of (~ 1 mm) of (~ 1 mm) of (~ 1 mm) of the fatty the fatty the fatty the fatty the fatty phase phase phase phase phase

Mp (°C) 53 71 72 67 47

ΔΗί (J/g) 24 80 56 59 61

Compositions A, F, G, H and I according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.

A J K

Phase Composition

(invention) (invention) (invention)

A1 Water qs qs qs

A1 Propanediol 5 5 5

A1 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1

A2 Glycerol 7 7 7

Sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2

(and) water (and) silica

A2 0.8 0.8 0.8

(Aquakeep® 10 SH NF sold by the

company Sumimoto Seika)

B1 Dicaprylyl carbonate

4 - - (Cetiol CC from Cognis)

B1 Hydrogenated polyisobutene

- 4 - (Parleam from Nof Corporation)

B1 C12-C15 Alkyl benzoate

(Tegosoft TN from Evonik - - 4 Goldschmidt)

B1 Inulin lauryl carbamate

0.1 0.1 0.1

(Inutec SP1 from Beneo Bio Based Chemicals)

B1 Cera alba

2 2 2

(Cerabeil Lor from Baerlocher)

B1 Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7

B2 Nylon-12

(Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS 0.996 0.996 0.996 from Arkema)

B2 Dye(s) 0.004 0.004 0.004

C Denatured Alcohol 7 7 7

D Acrylates copolymer

(Carbopol aqua SF-1 Polymer from 0.7 0.7 0.7

Lubrizol)

E Water 1 1 1

E Triethanolamine 0.08 0.08 0.08

Compositions A, J and K according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.

A L

Phase Composition

(invention) (invention)

A1 Water qs qs

A1 Propanediol 5 5

A1 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1

A2 Acrylates copolymer

(Carbopol aqua SF-1 Polymer from 0.7 0.7

Lubrizol)

A3 Water 1 1

A3 Triethanolamine 0.08 0.08

A4 Glycerol 7 7

A4 Sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2 (and) 0.8 0.8 water (and) silica (Aquakeep® 10 SH

NF sold by the company Sumimoto

Seika)

B1 Dicaprylyl carbonate

4 12

(Cetiol CC from Cognis)

B1 Inulin lauryl carbamate

(Inutec SP1 from Beneo Bio Based 0.1 0.3

Chemicals)

B1 Cera alba

2 6

(Cerabeil Lor from Baerlocher)

B1 Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7

B2 Nylon-12

(Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS from 0.996 0.996

Arkema)

B2 Dye(s) 0.004 0.004

C Denatured Alcohol 7 7

Compositions A and L according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.

Phases M N

Composition

(invention) (invention)

A1 Water qs qs

A1 Preservative(s) 0.95 1 .2

A2 Glycerol 7 7

Sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2 (and)

water (and) silica (Aquakeep® 10 SH

A2 0.4 0.4

NF sold by the company Sumimoto

Seika)

B Dicaprylyl carbonate 8 8 (Cetiol CC from Cognis)

B Inulin lauryl carbamate

(Inutec SP1 from Beneo Bio Based 0.2 0.2

Chemicals)

B Cera alba

4 4

(Cerabeil Lor from Baerlocher)

C Denatured Alcohol 5 5

D Nylon-12

(Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS from - 3

Arkema)

Compositions M and N according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.

Phases O P Q R

Composition

(invention) (invention) (invention) (invention)

A1 Water qs qs qs qs

A1 Propanediol 5 5 5 5

A1 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

A2 Xanthan gum - 0.2 - -

Ammonium

polyacryldimethyltauramide

A2 - - 0.2 - (Hostacerin AMPS from

Clariant)

A2 Sodium polyacrylate

(Cosmedia SP from - - - 0.2 Cognis)

A3 Water - - -

A3 Triethanolamine - - -

A4 Glycerol 7 7 7 7 Sodium acrylates

crosspolymer-2 (and)

water (and) silica

A4 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8

(Aquakeep® 10 SH NF

sold by the company

Sumimoto Seika)

B1 Dicaprylyl carbonate

4 4 4 4

(Cetiol CC from Cognis)

B1 Inulin lauryl carbamate

(Inutec SP1 from Beneo 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Bio Based Chemicals)

B1 Cera alba

(Cerabeil Lor from 2 2 2 2 Baerlocher)

B1 Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7

B2 Nylon-12

(Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT 1 1 1 1 COS from Arkema)

B2 Dye(s) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1

C Denatured Alcohol 7 7 7 7

Compositions O, P, Q and R according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.

Phase S T

Composition

(invention) (invention)

A1 Water 69.42 70.02

A1 Propanediol 5 5 A1 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1

Sucrose stearate

A1 (Tegosoft PSE 141 G from Evonik - 0.5 Goldschmidt)

Acrylat.es/C10-C30 alkyl acrylates

A2 copolymer 0.1 -

(Pemulen TR-1 from Lubrizol)

A3 Water 1 -

A3 Triethanolamine 0.1 -

A4 Glycerol 7 7

A4 Sodium acrylates crosspolymer-2

(and) water (and) silica (Aquakeep®

0.8 0.8 10 SH NF sold by the company

Sumimoto Seika)

B1 Dicaprylyl carbonate

4 4 (Cetiol CC from Cognis)

B1 Inulin lauryl carbamate

(Inutec SP1 from Beneo Bio Based - 0.1

Chemicals)

B1 Cera alba

2 2

(Cerabeil Lor from Baerlocher)

B1 Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7

B2 Nylon-12

(Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS from 0.996 0.996 Arkema)

B2 Dye(s) 0.004 0.004

C Denatured Alcohol 7 7

D Acrylates copolymer

(Carbopol aqua SF-1 Polymer from 0.7 0.7

Lubrizol)

E Water 1 1

E Triethanolamine 0.08 0.08

Gel with visible fatty- Gel with visible fatty-

Macroscopic appearance

phase globules phase globules

Compositions S and T according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having at least one melting peak above 25°C, exhibit a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase.

EXAMPLES U AND V IN COMPARED WITH EXAMPLE B

The macroscopic appearance of the formulae is evaluated at 24 hours.

The thermal transitions of the fatty phases are evaluated according to the protocol described previously. Interest is focused here on the melting points Mp.

B u V

Phase Composition

(comparative) (invention) (invention)

A1 Water qs qs qs

A1 Propanediol 5 5 5

A1 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1

A2 Glycerol 7 7 7

Sodium acrylates

crosspolymer-2 (and)

water (and) silica

A2 0.8 0.8 0.8

(Aquakeep® 10 SH NF

sold by the company

Sumimoto Seika)

Dicaprylyl carbonate

B1 4 4 4

(Cetiol CC from Cognis)

Synthetic wax

B1 (CIREBELLE 505 from - - 2

CIREBELLE)

Synthetic wax

B1 (CIREBELLE 303 from - 2 - CIREBELLE)

Theobroma cocoa butter

B1 (Deodorized cocoa butter 2 - - from Dutch Cocoa BV)

B1 Inulin lauryl carbamate 0.1 0.1 0.1 (Inutec SP1 from Beneo

Bio Based Chemicals)

B1 Preservative(s) 0.7 0.7 0.7

Nylon-12

B2 (Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT 0.996 0.996 0.996

COS from Arkema)

B2 Dye(s) 0.004 0.004 0.004

C Denatured Alcohol 7 7 7

Acrylates copolymer

D (Carbopol aqua SF-1 0.7 0.7 0.7

Polymer from Lubrizol)

E Water 1 1 1

E Triethanolamine 0.08 0.08 0.08

Compositions U and V according to the invention, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase having a melting peak respectively equal to 25°C and above 25°C, exhibits a fatty phase that is visually distinct from the aqueous phase with the naked eye. Composition B, containing a superabsorbent polymer in the aqueous phase, but a fatty phase which does not have a melting peak above 25°C, is a homogeneous cream, the fatty phase of which is not visually distinguished with the naked eye.

Claims

1 . Composition for topical application comprising a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the fatty phase and the aqueous phase being visually distinct, the aqueous phase comprising at least one superabsorbent polymer and the fatty phase having at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature greater than or equal to 25°C, said composition being free of surfactant or comprising at least one surfactant chosen from hydrophobically modified inulins.

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , comprising at least one surfactant chosen from hydrophobically modified inulins.

3. Composition according to either one of Claims 1 and 2, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are), once hydrated, in the form of particles which have a weight-average size ranging from 10 μηη to 1000 μηη, preferentially from 20 μηη to 500 μηη and even more preferentially from 50 μηη to 400 μηη.

4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) has (have) a capacity for absorbing water containing 0.9% of NaCI of from 10 to 100 g/g, preferably from 20 to 80 g/g and better still from 30 to 80 g/g.

5. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) in the form of spherical particles.

6. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the superabsorbent polymer(s) is (are) present in an active material content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, or even from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the fatty phase has at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature between 35°C and 120°C.

8. Composition according to Claim 7, in which the fatty phase has at least one thermal melting transition at a temperature between 35°C and 85°C.

9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the fatty phase has other phase transitions of melting type at temperatures below 25°C.

10. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, in which the fatty phase comprises at least one wax, preferably hydrocarbon-based wax.

1 1 . Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in which the content of surfactants is low, preferably less than 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition and even more preferentially less than 1 % by weight.

12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 1 1 , in which the hydrophobic groups of inulin are chosen from C4-C32 alkyl carbamate or C4-C32 alkyl ester groups, preferably from C1₀-C18 alkyl carbamate or Ci₀-Ci₈ alkyl ester groups, and even more preferentially lauryl carbamate.

13. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, in which the hydrophobically modified inulin(s) is (are) based on chicory inulin, preferably inulin lauryl carbamate.

14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in which a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13 is applied to the keratin material.

15. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 13, in the cosmetics or dermatology field, and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin, or for hair care, preferably for caring for, protecting and/or making up bodily or facial skin.