WO2013117843A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a multifunctional compound, compound and cosmetic treatment method - Google Patents

Description

 Cosmetic composition comprising a multifunctional compound, compound and cosmetic treatment method

 The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, capable of being used to bring about a permanent change to keratin materials, and a treatment method using said composition. In the hair field, consumers want to have compositions to make a temporary change to their hair, and aiming for a good performance of the effect achieved. In general, it is desired that the change persists shampoos for at least 15 days, or more depending on the nature of the change.

Treatments already exist to change the color or shape of the hair and, to a certain extent, the texture of the hair. One of the known treatments for modifying the texture of the hair consists of the combination of heat and a composition comprising formalin. This treatment is especially effective to give a better appearance to damaged hair, and / or to treat long hair and curly hair.

 The action of formalin is associated with its ability to crosslink proteins by reaction on its nucleophilic sites. The heat used can be that of iron (flat tongs or curling iron), whose temperature can reach in general 200 ° C, or even more.

However, it is increasingly sought to avoid the use of such substances, which can be aggressive for keratin materials in general, the hair in particular.

It has thus been proposed by the application WO201 1/104282, a new method for semi-permanently smoothing the hair, consisting in applying a solution of alphaketoacid on the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, then drying and finally to smooth iron, at a temperature of about 200 ° C, the hair. The alpha-endoacid used is preferably glyoxylic acid.

However, it has been found that the use of glyoxylic acid may give rise to some important limitations; in particular, its pH of action is acid, in particular of the order of 4, or even lower, which may not always be well tolerated, especially when the scalp is sensitive and / or irritated.

Nor is it desirable to use it in high concentrations because of its intrinsic acidity.

Its volatility, amplified by the use of heat (iron), can also be a problem.

 In addition, cosmetic formulations with acidic pH can alter the hair and / or alter the color. However, the treatment sought is particularly intended to provide repair artificially colored hair. It is therefore preferred to avoid the use of assets that can provide a reinforcing effect but contribute to altering the hair and / or their artificial color.

Now, the plaintiff has now discovered, unexpectedly and surprisingly, that certain particular compounds allowed to bring the desired properties to the keratin materials.

 In particular, the composition according to the invention will not cause a change in the color of the hair, and will not cause hair breakage problem. The composition will not alter the integrity of the fiber, especially its cuticle. It will further improve the mechanical properties of the hair, such as moisture resistance and shine, and reduce the effects of frizz.

Thus, an object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one compound of formula (I) as defined below.

It has been found that the use of the compositions according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a solution for strengthening and / or repairing the hair, in a manner that is durable and compatible with any type of prior or future hair treatment.

The principle of the invention consists in using molecules carrying on the one hand at least one first function of glyoxylic acid or derivative type or equivalent, and on the other hand at least one second function, identical or different from said first function. , able to react with the hair. This second function is preferably an electrophilic function. It may be an aldehyde function, optionally in the form of an acetal or hemiacetal that may belong to glyoxylic acid or its derivatives, in particular its hydrate or its protected forms, for example ethyldiethoxyacetate or methyldimethoxyacetate, giving respectively, by acid catalysis, the ethyl ester and the methyl ester of glyoxylic acid. This function can also be a ketone function, or a sulfur function capable of reacting with the sulphured functions of the hair, with or without pretreatment; in particular, it may be a thiol, thiosulfate or disulfide function, for example.

When applied to the skin or the nails, the composition may make it possible to obtain a surface sclerotization effect, in particular an antiperspirant effect, a reinforcing effect and / or a repair effect; or a grafting effect. In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one compound of formula (I), alone or as a mixture:

 (Z) x- (L) w- (A) y (I) wherein:

x is an integer from 1 to 4; Z represents a group chosen from the following groups:

with R1 representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C10 alkyl group, with R2 and R3, independently of one another, representing a hydrogen atom or a radical derived from a mono- or polyalcohol containing 1 at 30 carbon atoms,

- w represents 0 or 1;

L, which is a linker (linking agent), represents a saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 100 hydrocarbon-based chain which may optionally be interrupted and / or terminated by one or more groups chosen from oxygen or sulfur atoms, CO, NH, NR 2 (R = C 1 -C 10 alkyl), SO 2, SO 3, as well as saturated or unsaturated mono- or polycyclic groups, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as nitrogen atoms, oxygen or sulfur, said hydrocarbon chain and / or said ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from amino groups; mono- or dialkyl C1-C10 amino; C1-C10 amino or dihydroxyalkyl amino; cyano, hydroxy, nitro, halogen, C1-C10 alkoxy, carboxy, sulpho, C1-C10 alkyl, sulphonamido, carboxamido, C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl, C2-C10 acyl; perfluoroalkyl;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 4;

- A denotes Z or A is an entity capable of reacting with the sulfur functional groups of keratin materials, in particular the hair, with or without pretreatment, said entity being or comprising at least one group chosen from the following groups: mercapto (SH); (C1-C10) alkylsulfinyl (RS (O) -) and in particular methylsulfinyl; alkoxy (C1-C10) -sulfinyl (RO-S (O) -) and in particular methoxysulfinyl; aryl (C 6 -C 30) -thio and in particular phenylthio; C1 -C10 alkyl-dithio and in particular methyldithio; thiopseudourea (-SC (NH) NH2) or thiopseudouronium; thiocyanate; thiosulfate; aldehyde. Preferably, x is 1.

 Preferably, Z represents a group chosen from:

 With R1 = H or C1-C4 alkyl.

Preferably, Z represents:

Preferably, w is 1.

Preferably, L represents a - (CH ₂ ) n- chain or a - (CH ₂ ) n -S- (CH ₂ ) n "- chain with n being an integer from 1 to 4, and n 'and n ", identical or different, being integers ranging from 1 to 10.

Preferably, L represents a - (CH ₂ ) n- chain with n = 2 or a - (CH ₂ ) n -S- (CH ₂ ) n "- chain with n '= n" = 2.

Preferably, y is 1.

 Preferably, A represents an entity capable of reacting with the sulphured functions of the hair, without pretreatment.

 Preferably, A is chosen from one of the following groups:

as well as the following groups: mercapto (SH); (C1-C10) -sulfinyl and in particular methylsulfinyl; thiopseudourea; thiopseudouronium; aldehyde.

And even better, A represents a group chosen from:

 X- being a cosmetically acceptable counterion

The compounds of formula (I) are in particular chosen from the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

R2, identical or different, preferably identical, representing an ethyl group, or the two R2 groups taken together form a ring, the two oxygen atoms then being connected by a divalent group (CH ₂ ) 2 or (CH ₂ ) 3-

The compounds of formula (I) may also be in the form of salts, hydrates, acetals or hemiacetals, for example resulting from the interaction of the aldehyde function with water or a C 1 -C 6 alcohol, for example, especially ethanol. Acetals can be cyclic or acyclic.

The compounds according to the invention can in particular be prepared according to the processes illustrated below, which can easily be adapted by those skilled in the art on the basis of his general knowledge. Preparation of the compound (a)

DCI = Dicyclohexylcarbodiimide

HOBT = hydroxybenzotriazole

Preparation of compound (b)

Preparation of the compound (d)

1) DCI, HOBT

Preparation of the compound (e)

The compound of formula (I) or the mixture of said compounds is preferably present in the cosmetic composition at a concentration of between 0.01% and 50% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 1% by weight. 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition also comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with keratin materials, in particular the skin of the face or of the body, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

The compositions according to the invention can be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used, and especially in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution or suspension or oily; a solution or dispersion of the lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid strength, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type; a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, or any other cosmetic form.

These compositions can be packaged in pump bottles or in aerosol containers, in order to ensure application of the composition under vaporized form (lacquer) or in the form of foam. Such forms of packaging are indicated, for example, when it is desired to obtain a spray or a mousse, for the treatment of hair. In these cases, the composition preferably comprises at least one propellant.

The composition according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. It is preferably aqueous and then comprises water at a concentration preferably of between 5 and 98% by weight, in particular 20 and 95% by weight, more preferably 50 and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise one or more organic solvents, in particular water-soluble solvents, such as C 1 -C 7 alcohols; mention may especially be made of C 1 -C 7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, polyols and C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can therefore be used alone or as a mixture with water. Advantageously, the composition comprises a mixture of water / ethanol, water / isopropanol or water / benzyl alcohol.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, especially chosen from propellants; the oils; solid fatty substances and especially C8-C40 esters, C8-C40 acids; C8-C40 alcohols; nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants; solar filters; moisturizing agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; defixing agents such as thiols and alkali hydroxides; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; pigments; the charges; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); thickeners, polymeric or not; gelling agents; emulsifiers; polymers in particular conditioning or styling; the perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes; crosslinking agents such as polyphenols, aldehydes, DHA. The composition may of course include several cosmetic ingredients listed above.

Depending on their nature and the purpose of the composition, the usual cosmetic ingredients may be present in customary amounts, easily determinable by those skilled in the art, and which can be understood, in general, for each ingredient, between 0.01 to 80% by weight.

The oils may preferably be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 80% by weight, especially 0.02 to 40% by weight, or even 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. They can be carbonaceous. Mention may in particular be made of vegetable, animal or mineral oils, hydrogenated or not, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon, cyclic or aliphatic synthetic oils, such as, for example, polyalpha-olefins, in particular bind polydecenes and polyisobutenes; liquid fatty alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleic alcohol; liquid esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate. Mention may also be made of silicone oils, volatile or not, organomodified or otherwise, water-soluble or not; fluorinated or perfluorinated oils; as well as their mixtures.

The composition may also comprise one or more solid fatty substances, and in particular one or more fatty alcohols, fatty esters and / or fatty acids, different from the above oils, having 8 to 40 carbon atoms; these solid fatty substances may preferentially be present in a proportion of 0.01 to 50% by weight, especially 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Mention may in particular be made of C12-C32, especially C12-C26, linear chain fatty alcohols, and in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetylstearyl alcohol. Mention may also be made of C16-C40 linear or branched chain fatty acids, and in particular 18-methyl eicosanoic acid, coconut oil acids or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acids are unsalified. Mention may also be made of linear chain fatty esters containing in total between 8 and 40 carbon atoms, such as myristyl, cetyl or stearyl myristates, palmitates and stearates, alone or as a mixture.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients in the composition, as well as their amounts, so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

The pH of the composition may be acidic, neutral or alkaline.

According to a variant of the invention, the composition contains no or little glyoxylic acid, especially less than 10% by weight relative to the weight of compound (s) of formula (I).

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be in the form of a product for the care, cleaning and / or makeup of the skin of the body or the face, the lips, the eyebrows, the eyelashes, the nails and the skin. hair, a sunscreen or self-tanning product, a personal care product, a hair product, especially care, cleaning, styling, shaping, hair dyeing. It finds particularly a particularly interesting application in the hair field, including the maintenance of the hairstyle or the shaping of the hair, or the care, the cosmetic treatment or the cleaning of the hair. The hair compositions are preferably shampoos, conditioners, styling or care gels, lotions or care creams, conditioners, masks, serums, styling lotions, blow-dry lotions, fixing and styling compositions such as lacquers or spray; restructuring lotion for hair; anti-hair loss lotion or gel, anti-parasitic shampoo, anti-dandruff lotion or shampoo, anti-seborrhoeic shampoo. The lotions may be packaged in various forms, in particular in vaporizers, pump-bottles or in aerosol containers to ensure application of the composition in vaporized form or in the form of foam.

Even more particularly, the composition according to the invention finds an interesting application for the care and the cosmetic treatment, in particular the protection, of hair, in particular weakened and / or damaged hair, for example by chemical or mechanical treatments; the compounds according to the invention can in particular be used after the treatment, after a step of coloring, bleaching or straightening the hair.

The composition according to the invention may also be derived from the mixture, for example at the time of use, of at least one composition comprising at least one compound of formula (I), alone or as a mixture, said composition preferably being anhydrous ; with at least one second composition preferably comprising water and optionally other ingredients, in particular at least one agent increasing the reactivity of the compound (I).

 Indeed, it is possible to prepare the composition to be used at the time of use, for example by mixing at the time of use of several, including two compositions, one of which comprises the compound of formula (I), alone or in admixture, and is preferably anhydrous. For example, it is possible to mix a first composition comprising the compound of formula (I), alone or as a mixture, for example in the form of a powder, with a second composition comprising water and optionally other ingredients, in particular at least one agent increasing the reactivity of the compound (I). It is also possible to mix a first composition comprising the compound of formula (I), alone or as a mixture, in solution or dispersion in an anhydrous solvent, for example ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol or a PDMS, with a second composition including water and possibly other ingredients.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment, in particular of make-up, care, cleaning, coloring, shaping, keratin materials, in particular of the skin of the body or of the face, lips, nails , hair and / or eyelashes, comprising the application on said materials of a cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound according to the invention.

Preferably, it is a cosmetic treatment method for the condition The shaping, strengthening and / or repairing of the hair, in particular to provide or improve the disentangling, the smoothing, the combability, the maneuverability, the softness of the hair.

 In particular, it may be a cosmetic treatment method for the care and the cosmetic treatment, in particular the protection, of hair, in particular weakened and / or damaged hair, for example by chemical or mechanical treatments.

The method may also comprise at least one rinsing step and / or a heat treatment step. Thus, the application of the composition may optionally be followed by a rinsing step and / or a heat treatment step, for example at a temperature of between 150 ° C. and 250 ° C.

It may in particular be a heat treatment step including with an iron, curling or smoothing, at a temperature between 150 ° C and 250 ° C.

In particular, it is possible to use the composition with or without temperature, preferably with temperature, for example by using a flat gripper or a curling iron capable of raising the temperature to a value of between 150 ° C. and 250 ° C.

It is our view that the treatment method may also comprise an additional treatment step intended to increase the reactivity of the keratin. In particular, such a step may be carried out prior to the step of applying the composition comprising the compound (s) of formula (I).

It may be an additional step intended to modify the ionization of the proteins, or a reducing treatment step intended to reveal thiol or thiosulphate functions (treatment with sulphites, thiols, phosphines, hydrides, for example).

The subject of the invention is also the compounds of formula (Γ) new: (Z) x- (L) w- (A) y (Γ)

in which :

 x is an integer from 1 to 4;

Z represents a group chosen from the following groups:

with R1 representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C10 alkyl group, with R2 and R3, independently of one another, representing a hydrogen atom or a radical derived from a mono- or polyalcohol containing 1 at 30 carbon atoms,

- w represents 0 or 1;

 L, which is a linker (linking agent), represents a saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 100 hydrocarbon-based chain which may optionally be interrupted and / or terminated by one or more groups chosen from oxygen or sulfur atoms, the groups CO, NH, NR2 (R = C1 -C10 alkyl), SO2, SO3, as well as mono- or polycyclic groups, saturated or unsaturated, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as nitrogen, oxygen atoms; or sulfur, said hydrocarbon chain and / or said ring may be substituted by one or more groups selected from amino groups; mono- or dialkyl C1-C10 amino; C1-C10 amino or dihydroxyalkyl amino; cyano, hydroxy, nitro, halogen, C1-C10 alkoxy, carboxy, sulpho, C1-C10 alkyl, sulphonamido, carboxamido, C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl, C2-C10 acyl; perfluoroalkyl; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 4;

- A denotes Z or A is an entity capable of reacting with the sulfur functional groups of keratin materials, in particular the hair, with or without pretreatment, said entity being or comprising at least one group chosen from the following groups: mercapto (SH); (C1-C10) alkylsulfinyl (RS (O) -) and in particular methylsulfinyl; alkoxy (C1-C10) -sulfinyl (RO-S (O) -) and in particular methoxysulfinyl; aryl (C 6 -C 30) -thio and in particular phenylthio; C1 -C10 alkyl-dithio and in particular methyldithio; thiopseudourea (-SC (NH) NH2) or thiopseudouronium; thiocyanate; thiosulfate. The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following embodiment. Example 1

 The following compositions are prepared: Formula 1 (comparative)

Glyoxylic acid (Merck) 1 mol%

Glycerol 30 g

 Ammonia 20% qs pH 7

Water qs 100 g

Formula 2 (invention)

Compound (a) 1 mol%

Glycerol 30 g

Water qs 100 g

Formula 3 (invention)

Compound (b) 1 mol%

Glycerol 30 g

Water qs 100 g

Compounds

The 3 formulas are applied to strands of damaged hair, with and without reducing pretreatment. The reducing treatment consists in applying for 15 minutes a formula based on thioglycolic acid Dulcia Vital 1, then rinsing.

After application and a 10-minute exposure, the locks are treated with an iron set at 180 ° C. Three passes are made at a speed of about 2 cm / s. Then, rinse and wash the hair.

Without prior reducing treatment, the hair treated with the formulas 2 and 3 are superior in transformation of the hair, compared to the hair treated with the formula 1.

 With prior reduction treatment, the hair treated with formulas 2 and 3, are much higher than the hair treated with formula 1.

Example 2

 The following composition is prepared:

Formula 4 (invention) 0.5 mol%

 30 g

 qsp 100 g

X being a counter-ion

cosmetically acceptable

Formula 4 is applied to locks of natural hair having undergone a prior reduction treatment (treatment described in Example 1). It is heated for 10 minutes with the helmet taking the precaution of wrapping the hair with a plastic film.

 After application and a 10-minute exposure, the locks are treated with an iron set at 180 ° C. Three passes are made at a speed of about 2 cm / s. Then, rinse and wash the hair.

For comparison, an identical treatment is carried out with the comparative formula 1, described in Example 1.

Hair treated with Formula 4 is more processed than Formula 1 treated in that it gives a glossy feel and a thicker appearance.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising at least one compound of formula (I), alone or as a mixture, or a salt thereof, hydrates, acetals or hemiacetals, (Z) x- (L) w- (A) y (I) wherein: x is an integer from 1 to 4;  Z represents a group chosen from the following groups:

with R1 representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C10 alkyl group, with R2 and R3, independently of one another, representing a hydrogen atom or a radical derived from a mono- or polyalcohol containing 1 at 30 carbon atoms, - w represents 0 or 1; L represents a saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 100 hydrocarbon-based chain which may optionally be interrupted and / or terminated by one or more groups selected from oxygen or sulfur atoms, CO, NH, NR 2 groups (R = alkyl); C1-C10), SO2, SO3, as well as saturated or unsaturated mono- or polycyclic groups, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atoms, said hydrocarbon-based chain and / or said cycle may be substituted by one or more groups selected from amino groups; mono- or dialkyl C1 -C10 amino; mono- or dihydroxy-C1-C10 alkylamino; cyano, hydroxy, nitro, halogen, C1-C10 alkoxy, carboxy, sulpho, C1-C10 alkyl, sulphonamido, carboxamido, C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl, C2-C10 acyl; perfluoroalkyl; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 4;  A denotes Z or is an entity capable of reacting with the sulfur functions of keratin materials, with or without pretreatment, said entity being or comprising at least one group chosen from the following groups: mercapto (SH); alkyl I (C 1 -C 10) -su Ifiny I; (C1-C10) alkoxy-sulfinyl; aryl (C6-C30) alkylthio; (C1-C10) alkyl-dithio; thiopseudourea or thiopseudouronium; thiocyanate; thiosulfate; aldehyde. 2. The composition of claim 1 wherein in the compound of formula (I), x is 1. 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein in the compound of formula (I), Z represents a group chosen from:

 with R1 = H or C1-C4 alkyl. 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein in the compound of formula (I), w is equal to 1. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein, in the compound of formula (I), L represents a chain - (CH ₂ ) n - or a chain - (CH ₂ ) n - SS - (CH ₂ n "- where n is an integer from 1 to 4, and n 'and n", which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 1 to 10; preferably, L represents a - (CH ₂ ) n- chain with n = 2 or a - (CH ₂ ) n -S- (CH ₂ ) n "- chain with n '= n" = 2. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein in the compound of formula (I), y is equal to 1. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein in the compound of formula (I), A is chosen from one of the following groups:

as well as the following groups: mercapto (SH); (C1-C10) alkylsulphinyl; thiopseudourea; thiopseudouronium; aldehyde. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I) is selected from the following compounds, alone or in admixture, or their salts, their hydrates, their acetals and hemiacetals:

R2, identical or different, preferably identical, representing an ethyl group, or the two R2 groups taken together form a ring, the two oxygen atoms then being connected by a divalent group (CH ₂ ) 2 or (CH ₂ ) 3- 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I) or the mixture of said compounds is present in a concentration of between 0.01% and 50% by weight, especially 0.1 to 20%. by weight, preferably 1% to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, said composition being aqueous and preferably comprising water at a concentration of between 5 and 98% by weight, especially 20 and 95% by weight, better 50 and 90% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. 1 1. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, said composition being anhydrous. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, especially chosen from organic solvents, especially water-soluble, such as C 1 -C 7 alcohols; thrusters; the oils; solid fatty substances and especially C8-C40 esters, C8-C40 acids; C8-C40 alcohols; nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants; solar filters; moisturizing agents; anti-smoking agents cular; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; defixing agents such as thiols and alkali hydroxides; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescing agents; hydroxy acids; pigments; the charges; silicones and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); thickeners, polymeric or not; gelling agents; emulsifiers; polymers in particular conditioning or styling; the perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes; crosslinking agents such as polyphenols, aldehydes, DHA. 13. Cosmetic treatment process, especially for makeup, care, cleaning, coloring, shaping, keratin materials, especially the skin of the body or face, lips, nails, hair and / or eyelashes, comprising the application on said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 12. 14. Cosmetic treatment process according to claim 13, for the conditioning, shaping, strengthening and / or repair of the hair, in particular to provide or improve disentangling, smoothing, combability, workability, softness. hair; and / or for the care and the cosmetic treatment, in particular the protection, of the hair, in particular weakened and / or damaged hair, for example by chemical or mechanical treatments. 15. Compound of formula (Γ), or a salt thereof, hydrates, acetals or hemiacetals: (Z) x- (L) w- (A) y (Ι ') in which :  x is an integer from 1 to 4;  Z represents a group chosen from the following groups:

with R1 representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C10 alkyl group, with R2 and R3, independently of one another, representing a hydrogen atom or a radical derived from a mono- or polyalcohol containing 1 at 30 carbon atoms, - w represents 0 or 1;  L represents a saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 100 hydrocarbon-based chain which may optionally be interrupted and / or terminated by one or more groups selected from oxygen or sulfur atoms, CO, NH, NR 2 groups (R = alkyl); C1-C10), SO2, SO3, as well as saturated or unsaturated mono- or polycyclic groups, optionally containing one or more heteroatoms such as nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur atoms, said hydrocarbon-based chain and / or said cycle may be substituted by one or more groups selected from amino groups; mono- or dialkyl C1 -C10 amino; mono- or dihydroxy-C1-C10 alkylamino; cyano, hydroxy, nitro, halogen, C1-C10 alkoxy, carboxy, sulpho, C1-C10 alkyl, sulphonamido, carboxamido, C1-C10 alkoxycarbonyl, C2-C10 acyl; perfluoroalkyl; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 4; - A denotes Z or is an entity capable of reacting with the sulfur functions of keratin materials, with or without pretreatment, said entity being or comprising at least one group selected from the following groups: mercapto (SH); alkyl (C1-C10) -sulfinyl; (C1-C10) alkoxy-sulfinyl; aryl (C6-C30) alkylthio; (C1-C10) alkyl-dithio; thiopseudourea or thiopseudouronium; thiocyanate; thiosulfate. 16. The compound according to claim 15, selected from the following compounds, their salts, their hydrates, their acetals and hemiacetals:

R2, identical or different, preferably identical, representing an ethyl group, or the two R2 groups taken together form a ring, the two oxygen atoms then being connected by a divalent group (CH ₂ ) 2 or (CH ₂ ) ₃ .