WO2013004530A2 - Cationic emulsion comprising siloxane elastomer - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic W/O emulsion containing a) cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone and I) siloxane elastomer of the following structure: [I], where R₁= C₁ to C₃₀ alkyl radical, R₂= hydrogen, R₃= a cross-link -E-Y-E- in which the other end of the cross-link is linked to a second silicone elastomer chain, each E represents a divalent group selected from among the groups -CH₂-CH₂- or -CH=CH-, and Y represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, a siloxane, or a combination of both, a = 265-2000, b= 0-249, C= 1-250, with the provision that b+c ≤ 250, said siloxane elastomer being swollen in a solvent, or II) a siloxane elastomer produced by reacting (A) a ≡Si-H-containing polysiloxane of formula R₃SiO(R'₂SiO)_a(R"HSiO)_bSiR₃ and, optionally, a ≡Si-H-containing polysiloxane of formula HR₂SiO(R'₂SiO)_cSiR₂H or of formula HR₂SiO(R'₂SiO)_a(R"HSiO)_bSiR₂H, where R, R' and R" = alkyl groups with 1 to 6 C atoms, a=0-250, b=1-250, und c=0-250, with (B) an alpha,omega-diene of formula CH₂=CH(CH₂)_xCH=CH₂ where x=1-20, the reaction being carried out in the presence of a platinum catalyst, and (C) a solvent selected from among the group consisting of (i) organic components, (ii) components containing a silicone atom and any mixtures thereof, the reaction being carried out until a gel is obtained using cross-linking by adding ≡Si-H to the double bonds of the alpha,omega-diene.

Description

 description

Cationic emulsion with siloxane elastomer

The present invention relates to a cosmetic emulsion with cationic emulsifier and siloxane elastomer.

The desire to look beautiful and attractive is inherently rooted in man. Although the ideal of beauty has undergone changes over time, the pursuit of an impeccable appearance has always been the goal of man. An essential part of a beautiful and attractive appearance is the condition and appearance of the skin. For many years, skincare products have been used to keep them young and flawless.

Users place a number of demands on modern skincare products, especially in the form of face creams. They should care for the skin, in particular to provide the skin with moisture for a long time. This is usually done with "moisturizers" that bind water in the stratum corneum (eg glycerin), with added lipids to keep upper dandruff supple and reduce transepidermal water loss, and users often expect it to work against the signs of aging such as the development of wrinkles, the lessening of skin elasticity or the development of age spots, on the one hand active substances which, for example, stimulate the activity of skin cells, but also increasingly use UV filters, which are particularly responsible for the aging of the skin UVA. All of these ingredients present a great challenge for a pleasant sensory effect, since they remain as a film on the skin after the volatile constituents of the formulation evaporate, where they are perceived as sensory by the consumer and the sensible residues are often negatively affected Write and prevent the feeling that the product is completely "absorbed" in the skin.

In order to make the residues required by the formulation and market requirements more sensory, a number of sensor additives are used. In particular, silicone compounds and powder raw materials are to be mentioned here, as they the sticky feeling of For example, glycerol or the oily / greasy appearance of many lipids or UV filters can mask. It is found in products reinforced the use of silicone elastomers, which are different crosslinked and / or modified polydimethylsiloxanes, which are usually present in a medium swollen as a gel. This medium is preferably a low-viscosity, preferably volatile silicone. This class of raw material provides a powdery / dry, velvety / silky feel on the skin after dispensing and may, depending on the type of formulation, mask oily / greasy and / or sticky raw materials.

For special products or applications, it is particularly advantageous if the product on the one hand quickly retracts, and on the other hand, the residue on the skin feel very little and the skin feeling is particularly powdery / velvety. Silicone elastomer formulations also reach their limits here, especially if a larger amount of lipid is contained in order to ensure adequate skincare.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop an emulsion which, with sufficient skincare, quickly absorbs, leaves no oily / greasy residue and gives the skin a powdery / velvety feeling.

The problem is solved by containing a cosmetic emulsion

a) a cationic emulsifier and

 I) siloxane elastomer having the following structure:

C-i bis C₃₀ Alkylrest, R₂=Wasserstoff,

C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl radical, R ₂ = hydrogen,

R ₃ = a cross-linker -EYE- in which the other end of the cross-linking is connected to a second silicone elastomer chain, each E is a divalent group selected from the group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - or -CH = CH- and Y is a bivalent one Hydrocarbon group, a siloxane, or a combination of both, a = 265-2000, b = 0-249, C = 1-250, with the proviso that b + c <250,

 that has swollen in a solvent,

 or

 II) a siloxane elastomer prepared by the reaction

(A) a Si-H-containing polysiloxane of the formula R ₃ SiO (R ' ₂ SiO) a (R "HSiO) _b SiR ₃ and, optionally, a Si-H-containing polysiloxane of the formula HR ₂ SiO (R' ₂ SiO) _c SiR ₂ H or the Formula HR ₂ SiO (R'2SiO) a ("HSiO) bSiR ₂ H

with R, R 'and R "= alkyl groups having 1 to 6 C atoms,

a = 0-250, b = 1-250, and c = 0-250,

(B) with an alpha, omega-diene of the formula CH 2 = CH (CH 2) _x CH = CH 2 where x = 1-20, the reaction being carried out in the presence of a platinum catalyst and (C) a solvent selected from the group consisting of (i) organic components, (ii) components containing a silicon atom and any mixtures thereof,

wherein the reaction is carried out until a gel is formed by cross-linking by the addition of Si-H to the double bonds of the alpha, omega-diene.

The skin feeling experienced when applying this preparation according to the invention is evaluated by the users as follows: The preparation absorbs more quickly into the skin, leaving a powdery-velvety feeling on the skin, with the impression that in the skin Compared to other preparations, only little residue on the skin remains.

Although the prior art knows the EP 1551923 and the US 564362, but these publications could not point the way to the present invention.

If the term "cosmetic preparation" is used in the context of the present disclosure, it means the emulsion according to the invention.

In the case of the siloxane elastomer I), it is advantageous according to the invention if R _{3 is} chosen from polyethers, pentylene, hexylene, heptylene, octylene, nonylene, decylene, dodecylene, tetradecylene and mixtures thereof.

It is advantageous in the case of the siloxane elastomer I) according to the invention if the compound contains 0.01 to 90 mol% of cross-linker.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that one of the compounds selected from the group consisting of compounds 1, 4-pentadiene, 1, 5-hexadiene, 1, 6-heptadiene, 1, has been used for cross-linking the siloxane elastomer I) , 7-octadiene, 1,8-nonadiene, 1,9-decadiene, 1,1,1-dodecadiene, 1,13-tetradecadiene and 1,19-eicosadiene, 1,3-butadiyne, 1,5-hexadiyne (dipropargyl) and 1, witches-5-in.

It is advantageous according to the invention if decamethylcyclopentasiloxane is used as solvent in which the siloxane elastomer is swollen. According to the invention, the siloxane elastomer I) according to the invention can advantageously be prepared by the following process:

 1) Reaction in the presence of a hydrosilylation catalyst of

 (a) a ^ = Si H-containing polysiloxane having the formula

R ¹ ₃ SiO (R ¹ ₂ SiO) a (R ¹ HSiO) _d SiR ¹ 3

wherein each R ^{1 is} independently a monovalent hydrocarbon group of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, a is 265 to 2,000 and d is 1 to 250

 (b) diene, di-or en-in compound,

where (a) and (b) in

 (c) a diluent dispersed, and

 2) Continue the reaction until a silicone elastomer is formed by cross-linking and adding ^ = Si H to double bonds, in the diene-diyne or en-in compound.

It is preferred according to the invention if an additional second ^ = Si H-containing polysiloxane is present, which is selected from HR ¹ ₂ SiO (R ¹ 2SiO) _e SiR ¹ 2H,

HR ¹ 2SiO (R ¹ 2SiO) a (R ¹ HSiO) _d SiR ¹ ₂ H and mixtures thereof, wherein each R ^{1 is} independently a monovalent hydrocarbon group of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, a is 265 to 2,000 and d is 1 to Is 250 and e is 0 to 250, wherein the second ^ = Si H-containing polysiloxane in a molar ratio of> 0 to 20 are present.

According to the invention it is further preferred if (b) is selected from 1, 4-pentadiene, 1, 5-hexadiene, 1, 6-heptadiene, 1, 7-octadiene, 1, 8-nonadiene, 1, 9-decadiene, 1 , 1-dodecadiene, 1, 13-tetradecadiene and 1, 19-eicosadiene, 1, 3-butadiyne, 1, 5-hexadiyne (dipropargyl) and 1, hexene-5-yne.

Not least according to the invention, it is preferred if the molar ratio of (a) to (b) in the range of 0.7: 1 to 1, 3: 1.

These siloxane elastomers according to the invention can be obtained, for example, from Dow Corning under the trade name DC 9040, 9041 or 9045.

Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains the siloxane elastomer in a concentration of 10 to 50 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

It is inventively preferred when distearyldimonium chloride is used as the cationic emulsifier. Embodiments of the present invention particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation distearyldimonium chloride in a

Concentration of 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the emulsion contains.

In addition to these ingredients, the preparation according to the invention may contain the customary water- and oil-soluble ingredients that would be used by a person skilled in the art, depending on the intended use of the emulsion, within the scope of his general expert knowledge.

Comparative Experiment / embodiment

'Dow Corning 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, -12% polymer content in Cyclomethicone 2 ⁾ Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, -15% polymer content in Cyclomethicone

All formulations contain -4% silicone polymer and -28% cyclomethicone, Example 1 according to the invention and Comparative Example 1 contain a silicone elastomer, whereas Comparative Example 2 contains a linear silicone. All formulations are stable (at least 3 months at 40 ° C without phase separation). A trained panel of 11 subjects each compared example 1 with one of the comparative examples. It was evaluated whether a formula a) moves faster, b) after spreading is more powdery, velvety / silky and c) leaves less residue.

Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 differed by the emulsifier. While example 1 contains the cationic emulsifier according to the invention, comparative example 1 is based on the nonionic emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate. It can be clearly seen that both products move in at the same speed, but the residue when using the cationic emulsifier is less perceptible and the skin feeling is described as powdery and velvety / silky.

Example 1 and Comparative Example 2 differ by the silicone polymer. While Example 1 contains a silicone elastomer according to the invention, Comparative Example 2 uses a linear silicone. It can be clearly seen that the formula with silicone elastomer retracts faster, leaves less residue and the skin feeling is described as powdery and velvety / silky.

Thus, only the inventive combination of the cationic emulsifier with silicone elastomer provides the desired powdery, velvety / silky sensory and little noticeable residue.

Examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless indicated otherwise, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5

 Distearyldimonium 1 1 1 1

Chloride

 Cetyl alcohol 2 2 2 2

 Cyclopentasiloxanes 32

and Dimethicone

Crosspolymer ¹⁾

 Dimethicone and 32 16

Dimethicone

Crosspolymer ²⁾

 Cyclomethicone and 32 16

Cetearyl

 Dimethicone / Vinyl

Dimethicone

Crosspolymer ³⁾

 Octyldodecanol 3,5 3,5 3,5 3,5

 Caprylic / Capric 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5

triglycerides

 Dicaprylyl ether 3,5 3,5 3,5 3,5

 Glyceryl Stearate 1 1 1 1

 Glycerol 10 10 10 10

 Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

 Preservative eq. eq. eq. eq.

Fragrance eq. eq. eq. eq. Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9

Distearyldimonium 1, 5 1, 5 2 2 chlorides

 Cetyl alcohol 2 2 2 2

Cyclopentasiloxane 32 32 32 32 and Dimethicone

Crosspolymer ¹⁾

 Octocrylene 3 5 3 5

Butyl 3 3 3 5

Methoxydibenzoyl

methane

 Ethyl hexyl salicylates 5

 Homosalates 5 5 5

Bis 1 1 3 5

Ethylhexyloxyphenol

 methoxyphenyl

 Tirazine

 Titanium Dioxide 4

C12-15 alkyl 5 5 3 8 benzoates

 Glyceryl Stearate 1 1 1 1

Glycerol 10 10 10 10

Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Preservative eq. eq. eq. eq.

 Fragrance eq. eq. eq. eq.

Dow Corning 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend Momentive Silsoft Silicone Gel

Claims

claims 1 . Contains cosmetic emulsion  a) a cationic emulsifier  I) siloxane elastomer having the following structure:

 With C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl radical, R ₂ = hydrogen, R ₃ = a cross-linker -EYE- in which the other end of the cross-linking is connected to a second silicone elastomer chain, each E is a divalent group selected from the group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - or -CH = CH- and Y is a bivalent one Hydrocarbon group, a siloxane, or a combination of both, a = 265-2000, b = 0-249, C = 1-250, with the proviso that b + c <250,  that has swollen in a solvent,  or  I) a siloxane elastomer prepared by the reaction (A) a = S-containing polysiloxane of the formula R ₃ SiO (R ' ₂ SiO) a (R'l-ISiO) b SiR 3 and, optionally, a Si-H-containing polysiloxane of the formula HR ₂ SiO (R' ₂ SiO) _c SiR ₂ H or the formula HR ₂ SiO (R ₂ SiO) a (R "HSiO) _b SiR ₂ H, with R, R 'and R "= alkyl groups having 1 to 6 C atoms, a = 0-250, b = 1-250, and c = 0-250, (B) with an alpha, omega-diene of the formula CH ₂ = CH (CH ₂ ) _X CH = CH ₂ where x = 1-20, the reaction being carried out in the presence of a platinum catalyst and (C) a solvent from the group consisting of (i) organic components, (ii) components containing a silicon atom and any mixtures thereof, wherein the reaction is carried out until a gel is formed by cross-linking by the addition of ESi-H to the double bonds of the alpha, omega-diene. 2. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that decamethylcyclopentasiloxane is used as the solvent in which the siloxane elastomer is swollen. 3. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that distearyldimonium chloride is used as the cationic emulsifier. 4. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized  in that the preparation contains distearyldimonium chloride in a concentration of 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. 5. Cosmetic preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized  in that the preparation contains the siloxane elastomer in a concentration of 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion.