WO2012172622A1 - Solid water-in-oil-type emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a solid water-in-oil-type emulsion cosmetic which has excellent color-developing properties for use as an eye make-up cosmetic, is stable, and has good sensation upon application and a long-lasting performance after application. The present invention provides a solid water-in-oil-type emulsion cosmetic which comprises a volatile linear dimethylsilicone tetramer, a volatile linear dimethylsilicone pentamer, a solid wax and/or an oil-gelling agent, water, a lipophilic surfactant and a powder, and which is characterized in that the ratio of the content of the linear dimethylsilicone tetramer to the content of the linear dimethylsilicone pentamer is more than 1.

Description

Solid oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic

The present invention relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. More specifically, it contains a specific volatile linear silicone oil, a solid wax and / or oil gelling agent, water, and a surfactant, and is stable and usable for spreading and fitting. The present invention also relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic having excellent color developability and good cosmetic durability.

Commonly used as a base type of solid cosmetics, solid oily type obtained by solidifying oil, solid press type obtained by pressing powder or a mixture of powder and oil, oily component and oily solidifying agent, water, There are water-in-oil emulsification types obtained from powders and lipophilic surfactants, which are properly used depending on the purpose and method of use of the cosmetic. In particular, solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics, especially cosmetics containing volatile silicone oils, can be blended with various moisturizers and chemicals as water phase components, providing a refreshing sensation when applied and repelling silicone oil. It has excellent properties such as water resistance of the coating film due to water and suppression of stickiness due to volatilization.

Conventionally, solid water-in-oil emulsions containing volatile silicone oils are difficult to stabilize and have had problems such as “cracking” and “cracking” due to volatilization. By using a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane as an emulsifier as an oil phase containing a volatile silicone oil and a solid wax, a solid water-in-oil with no fluidity while containing a relatively large amount of water It is described that a type emulsified cosmetic can be obtained, is excellent in stability without “crack”, “crack”, etc., has “coolness” when applied, and uses “nobbi”, “freshness”, etc. The feeling is also excellent. Further, a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic having the same excellent characteristics is obtained even when the wax of Patent Document 1 is replaced with a specific oil gelling agent (Patent Document 2).

Furthermore, in a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic as described in Patent Document 1 or 2, particularly in a solid foundation, the cosmetic durability is further improved by blending a hydrophobized powder as a powder (Patent Document 3). ), A part of the powder component is made spherical powder to improve the smoothness of spreading at the time of application, and the non-uniformity due to the aggregation of the powder has been developed (Patent Document 4).

The solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics described in Patent Documents 1 to 4 have been used particularly as face makeup cosmetics such as foundations and blushers because of the novel feeling of refreshing feeling and excellent feeling of use. Similarly, there is an example in which the composition of a water-in-oil emulsion containing a volatile oil (silicone oil, etc.), wax and powder is applied to eye shadow (see Non-Patent Document 1), but an eye color that requires various colors. For use as an eye makeup cosmetic such as an eye shadow, color development and color uniformity (no color unevenness) are not sufficient. There was a need for further improvement.

Japanese Patent No. 2691729 Japanese Patent No. 2665951 Japanese Patent No. 2665473 Japanese Patent No. 2996410

Japan Society for Invention and Innovation, Technical Report 2008-504137, issued July 18, 2008, pages 35-36

The present invention has been made in view of such problems of the prior art, and has excellent color development suitable for use as an eye makeup cosmetic, and is a solid oil that is stable and has a good feeling of use and a long-lasting makeup. An object is to provide a water-in-water emulsified cosmetic.

As a result of intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned problems, the inventors have formulated specific volatile linear dimethyl silicone at a specific ratio, so that it has a feeling of use and a long-lasting feeling during application and fit. Has been found that a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic with good color development, excellent color development and no color unevenness can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed.
That is, the present invention contains a volatile linear dimethyl silicone tetramer, a volatile linear dimethyl silicone pentamer, a solid wax and / or an oil gelling agent, water, a lipophilic surfactant and a powder. And providing a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic in which the ratio of the amount of the linear dimethyl silicone tetramer to the amount of the linear dimethyl silicone pentamer is greater than 1.

According to the present invention, solid water-in-oil emulsified makeup having excellent color developability, good spreading at the time of application, no color unevenness (smoothness), good fit, long lasting makeup, and stability. The cosmetics are particularly suitable for eye makeup cosmetics such as eye colors and eye shadows.

The cosmetic according to the present invention is a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. The term “solid” or “solid” used in the present specification means that which is in a solid state without fluidity in the temperature range (0 ° C. to 50 ° C.) usually used as a cosmetic.

The volatile linear dimethyl silicone tetramer blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is a linear volatile dimethyl silicone (designated name: dimethicone) represented by the following formula (I), In (I), n = 2 is indicated (hereinafter referred to as “dimethicone tetramer”).
On the other hand, the volatile linear dimethyl silicone pentamer is a linear volatile dimethyl silicone represented by the following formula (I) (designated name: dimethicone), and n = 3 in the formula (I). (Hereinafter referred to as “dimethicone pentamer”).

The dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer used in the present invention may be commercially available products based on them. Examples of the dimethicone tetramer include KF-96L-1.5CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Examples include SH200 Fluid 1.5CS manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., which has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 1.5 mm ² / s, a specific gravity of 0.85, and a refractive index of 1.39. Examples of the dimethicone pentamer include KF-96L-2CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. and SH200 Fluid 2CS manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., which have a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 2 mm ² / s and a specific gravity of 0.87. It has a refractive index of 1.39.

The cosmetic of the present invention is characterized in that the dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer are combined in combination, and the ratio of the amounts is in a specific range. That is, the ratio of the amount of dimethicone tetramer to the amount of dimethicone pentamer (dimethicone tetramer / dimethicone pentamer) is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, more preferably greater than 3. Most preferably greater than 4. The upper limit of the value of this ratio is not particularly limited, but is usually 30 or less, preferably 20 or less, more preferably about 15 or less.

The blending amount of the silicone oil containing dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer is preferably 30 to 97% by mass in the oil phase and 5 to 85% by mass in the total cosmetic.
The blending amount of each of the dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer can be appropriately set within a range satisfying the blending ratio. For example, the dimethicone tetramer is in the range of 0.1 to 25% by mass, preferably 5 to 24% by mass, more preferably 10 to 23% by mass, and the blending amount of the dimethicone pentamer is 0.1 to 13% by mass, It is preferably set in the range of 1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 2 to 8% by mass.

Solid waxes to be blended in the cosmetics of the present invention may be those commonly used in cosmetics, petroleum waxes such as paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax, mineral waxes such as ozokerite and ceresin, natural waxes such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax. One or a mixture of two or more types of waxes having a melting point of 50 ° C. or more can be exemplified, but in particular, a mixture of linear and / or branched hydrocarbons having a carbon number of 25 to 52 of the linear hydrocarbons. Those containing as a main component are preferred. The type of wax used is selected according to the type of oil used, but wax esters such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax are difficult to obtain when used alone, and are linear and / or branched carbonized. It is preferable to mix with a hydrogen wax. In addition, since commercially available hydrocarbon solid wax is obtained as a mixture, it has a distribution in carbon number and contains isoparaffin and naphthene, but even in that case, the main component is one having 25 to 52 carbon atoms. If it is.

As the oil gelling agent used in the present invention, condensates of benzaldehydes such as dibenzylidene sorbitol, tribenzylidene sorbitol, dibenzylidene xylitol, paramethoxybenzylidene sorbitol and pentavalent or higher alcohols, calcium stearate, calcium palmitate, Metal soap such as lithium 2-ethylhexanoate, aluminum 12-hydroxystearate, lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide, lauroylglutamic acid stearylamide, dicaproyllysine laurylamine salt, dicaproyllysine lauryl ester, dicaproyllysine lauroylphenylalanine lauryl Saturated starch fat with an ester group substitution degree of 30% or more, such as amide, N-acyl amino acid amides, derivatives such as amides and amine salts Etc. consisting of acid hydrolysates of the ester dextrin fatty acid ester and 12-hydroxy stearic acid.

In the solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention, one or more of the above-described solid wax and / or oil gelling agent is appropriately selected and blended. The blending amount of the solid wax and / or oil gelling agent can be adjusted according to the desired hardness, but the ratio of oil: solid wax and / or oil gelling agent is preferably 20: 1 to 3: 1, 2 to 20% by mass in the total cosmetic is preferable, and 5 to 20% by mass is more preferable.

The amount of water blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 5% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more based on the total cosmetics. In particular, by blending 10% by mass or more of water, a very large refreshing feeling can be obtained during use.

The lipophilic surfactant used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but those having an HLB value of 8 or less are preferred. For example, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, glyceryl monoisostearate, diisostearate glyceryl, glyceryl sesquiisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, diolein Examples include glyceryl acid, glyceryl sesquioleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglycerin monoisostearyl ether, and diglycerin diisostearyl ether. A polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane containing 5 to 40% polyoxyalkylene groups in the molecule and having a molecular weight of 1000 or more can also be used.
The blending amount of the lipophilic surfactant in the cosmetic of the present invention is appropriately selected according to the amount of the aqueous phase to be emulsified, but is usually preferably 0.2 to 10% by mass in the total cosmetic. .

As the powder, a powder usually used in cosmetics is used. For example, talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, silica, magnesium silicate, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, clay mineral powder such as bentonite and montmorillonite, alumina, barium sulfate, dicalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate , Titanium oxide, fine particle titanium oxide with a particle size of 0.1 μm or less, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxyapatite, iron oxide, iron titanate, ultramarine, bitumen, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, cobalt titanate, oxidation Examples include pearl pigments such as titanium coated mica.
Organic powders include polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate resin, cellulose, 12 nylon, 6 nylon, styrene and acrylic acid copolymer, polypropylene, vinyl chloride, tetrafluoroethylene, boron nitride, fish scale foil, red 3 No. 4, Red No. 4, Red No. 203 and the like tar-type pigments, natural pigments lakes, and composite powders composed of inorganic powders and organic powders.

In the present invention, the above-mentioned powder treated with a hydrophobizing agent is particularly preferable. By performing the hydrophobizing treatment, color separation is suppressed, and makeup durability such as water resistance, sweat resistance and sebum resistance can be improved. Especially in the case of blending various types of powders, it is more important to control the dispersibility of each powder, and the dispersibility is homogenized by hydrophobizing each powder, so that color separation or the like hardly occurs. And stability is improved. In addition, since the powder becomes difficult to wet due to the hydrophobizing treatment, the makeup is improved. Examples of the hydrophobizing agent include organic compounds such as dextrin fatty acid esters, metal soaps, silicone compounds, and dibenzylidene sorbitol.

The cosmetic of the present invention may contain one or more selected from the above powders. The blending amount of the powder is preferably 5 to 50% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 5% by mass, the color development is not sufficient and it may be difficult to feel the makeup effect, and if it exceeds 50% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a light weight.

In addition, the solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be blended with other optional components usually used in cosmetics as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. For example, moisturizers such as polyhydric alcohols, mucopolysaccharides, organic acids and organic salts (amino acids, amino acid salts, oxyacid salts, etc.) as water phase components, petrolatum, lanolin, silicon wax, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols as oil phase components Surface activity such as solid and semi-solid oil such as squalane, liquid paraffin, ester oil, triglyceride, volatile hydrocarbon oil, fluorocarbon and other fluid oil, cationic surfactant, anionic surfactant, nonionic surfactant , Agents such as vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, astringents, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters such as dibasic sodium phosphate, clay minerals, thickeners, UV absorbers, etc. it can.

Among the above optional components, for example, moisturizing effect of 1,3-butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, xylitol, maltitol, maltose, D-mannitol, etc. It is preferable to add a component that can be recognized in order to suppress volatilization of water.
In addition, said arbitrary component is an illustration and is not limited to these. These optional components can be combined in an appropriate combination.

The solid water-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention has good stretchability when applied, has a good fit, and has excellent color development. Therefore, it is particularly suitable for use as makeup cosmetics, especially eye makeup cosmetics such as eye color and eye shadow.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, all the amounts are mass%.
First, the evaluation method used in the present invention will be described.

(Evaluation methods)
Prepare solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics (eye color) with the compositions listed in Tables 1 and 2 below, and use a special panel (10 people) to “spread on application”, “fitness”, “color development” The sensory test on “Make-up” was conducted and sensory evaluation (score) of 5 levels was made. Based on the average score, the following evaluation criteria were used.
(Score) 5: Very good 4: Excellent 3: Normal 2: Inferior 1: Very inferior

Evaluation criteria:
A: Evaluation value (average value) 4.0 or more and 5.0 points or less ○: Evaluation value (average value) 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 points Δ: Evaluation value (average value) 2.0 or more and 3.0 points Less than ×: Evaluation value (average value) 1.0 or more and less than 2.0 points

About each cosmetics of Table 1 and Table 2, the dispersion state was evaluated as follows.
When each cosmetic was applied, the color unevenness due to powder aggregation (straight spot) was observed as Δ, and the color unevenness was not observed as uniform.
Further, the viscosity (measured with a B-type viscometer at 80 to 85 ° C.) and hardness (rheometer hardness meter, 5.6φ, measured at 37 ° C.) of each cosmetic were measured.

As is apparent from the results shown in Table 1, Comparative Example 1 in which the dimethicone tetramer and pentamer were replaced with volatile cyclic silicones was particularly inferior to “long” and “long-lasting makeup” and “fit”. Also, “color development” does not reach the cosmetics of the present invention (Example 1). Further, in Comparative Examples 2 and 3 corresponding to the cosmetics reproducing the composition described in Non-Patent Document 1, the total formulation of the volatile oil is the same as in Example 1, but the hardness of the entire cosmetics is It was low and inferior to the cosmetics of the present invention (Example 1) in all measured items.

Referring to Table 2, Comparative Example 4 which contains dimethicone tetramer but does not contain dimethicone pentamer is not particularly good in “nobit”, and conversely contains dimethicone pentamer but does not contain dimethicone tetramer. Example 7 shows that “fitness”, “color development”, and “makeup lasting” are inferior. Further, Comparative Examples 5 and 6 in which the blending amount of dimethicone pentamer is 1 or less with respect to the blending amount of dimethicone tetramer have characteristics other than the dispersion state from the cosmetics of the present invention (Examples 1 and 2). In particular, “fitness” and “color development” were insufficient.

Hereinafter, other formulation examples of the present invention will be shown.
In addition, when the same characteristic evaluation as described above was performed for the following prescription examples, excellent results were obtained.

(Prescription Example 1)
Compounding ingredients Compounding amount (% by mass)
Color pigment 0.3
Silicone-treated pearl agent 23
Polymethylsilsesquioxane 7.75
Microcrystalline wax 1.1
Paraffin wax 3.4
Candelilla wax 0.1
Dimethicone (1.5CS) 22
Dimethicone (2CS) 3.5
Purified water 28
Dipropylene glycol 5
Glycerin 1
Dispersant 0.35
Preservative 0.5
Sorbitan sesquioleate 4
Antioxidant appropriate amount

Production method:
The oil phase component is heated and dissolved at 85 ° C., the powder component mixed with a blender is added and stirred and mixed, and the water phase component heated and dissolved separately at 85 ° C. is added with stirring and emulsified and dispersed with a homomixer. The obtained water-in-oil emulsion was filled in a container and cooled.

(Prescription example 2)
Compounding ingredients Compounding amount (% by mass)
Red number 226 2
Yellow No. 1 1
Silicone-treated pearl agent 21
Polymethylsilsesquioxane 7.05
Microcrystalline wax 1.1
Paraffin wax 3.4
Candelilla wax 0.1
Dimethicone (1.5CS) 22
Dimethicone (2CS) 3.5
Purified water 21
Dipropylene glycol 5
Glycerin 7
Erythritol 1
Dispersant 0.35
Preservative 0.5
Sorbitan sesquioleate 4
Antioxidant appropriate amount

(Prescription Example 3)
Compounding ingredients Compounding amount (% by mass)
Color pigment 0.3
Silicone-treated pearl agent 23
Polymethylsilsesquioxane 6.35
Microcrystalline wax 1.0
12-hydroxystearic acid 5.0
Dimethicone (1.5CS) 22
Dimethicone (2CS) 3.5
Purified water 28
Dipropylene glycol 5
Glycerin 1
Dispersant 0.35
Preservative 0.5
Sorbitan sesquioleate 4
Antioxidant appropriate amount

Claims (3)

A volatile linear dimethyl silicone tetramer, a volatile linear dimethyl silicone pentamer, a solid wax and / or an oil gelling agent, water, a lipophilic surfactant and a powder, A solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic, wherein the ratio of the amount of linear dimethyl silicone tetramer to the amount of linear dimethyl silicone pentamer is greater than 1. The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the powder is a surface-hydrophobized powder. The cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic is an eye makeup cosmetic.