WO2012171872A2

WO2012171872A2 - Emulsion-type cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, and process for coating keratin fibres

Info

Publication number: WO2012171872A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/060994
Authority: WO
Inventors: Isabelle Jacquier
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2011-06-15
Filing date: 2012-06-11
Publication date: 2012-12-20
Anticipated expiration: 2013-12-15
Also published as: FR2976487B1; FR2976487A1; WO2012171872A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to an emulsion-type cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising: - an aqueous phase, - a waxy phase dispersed in the aqueous phase by means of an emulsifying system, and in which the emulsifying system comprises at least three surfactants comprising: - at least one C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxylated ether of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols comprising inclusively from 1 to 150 alkoxy groups, - at least one C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxylated ester of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids comprising inclusively from 1 to 150 alkoxy groups, and - at least one ester and/or salt derived from at least one C₁₆-C₃₀ fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres, and in particular for making up the eyelashes, comprising a step of applying the said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres.

Description

Emulsion-type cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, and process for coating keratin fibres

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, and in particular the eyelashes or the eyebrows. In particular, the said cosmetic composition is a composition for making up and optionally caring for the eyelashes. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres, in particular a process for making up and optionally caring for the eyelashes. The composition used may especially be in the form of an eyelash product such as a mascara, or an eyebrow product. More preferentially, the invention relates to a mascara. The term "mascara" means a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also known as a base coat), a composition to be applied over a mascara, also known as a top coat, or a cosmetic composition for treating the eyelashes. The mascara is more particularly intended for human eyelashes, but also false eyelashes.

Mascaras are especially prepared according to two types of formulation: water-based mascaras known as cream mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of waxes in water; anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents. The present patent application more specifically relates to water-based mascaras.

Keratin fibre coating compositions of such a mascara type generally consist of at least one fatty phase generally formed from one or more waxes dispersed in an aqueous liquid phase by means of an emulsifying system or conveyed in an organic solvent. These compositions generally have a particular colouring effect, which is quite often black, associated with the presence of pigments. The application of mascara is in particular directed towards increasing the volume of the eyelashes and consequently increasing the intensity of the gaze. Numerous thickening or volumizing mascaras exist to do this, the principle of which consists in depositing a maximum amount of material onto the eyelashes so as to obtain this volumizing (or charging) effect. It is in particular by means of the amount of solid particles (especially the waxes, which structure the composition) that the desired application specificities for compositions may be adjusted, for instance their fluidity or consistency, and also their thickening power (also known as the charging or makeup power).

These solid particles are dispersed in the cream mascara by means of an emulsifying system composed of one or more surfactant(s). Among the standard emulsifiers or emulsifying systems are:

- cetyl phosphate, however the use of cetyl phosphate alone leads to aggregation of the pigments and also to coarse dispersion of the waxes; this results frequently in a "grey" rather than a black mascara;

- emulsifying systems based on steareth-20 and steareth-2, however, the use of these systems leads to very fluid mascaras whose consistency is unsatisfactory for a volumizing mascara;

- emulsifying systems based on cetyl phosphate and steareth-2; and

- emulsifying systems based on triethanolamine stearate. One aim of the present invention is thus to obtain a composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably a mascara, which gives rise to a charging or covering deposit, of good volume on the eyelashes.

One aim of the present invention also lies in the development of a composition for coating keratin fibres and of a process for coating keratin fibres, which shows good staying power on the eyelashes or the eyebrows.

In particular, one aim of the present invention is to prepare a composition for coating keratin fibres which shows good staying power, and is resistant to rubbing and/or to water, and especially to ambient moisture, tears, sweat and/or sebum.

An aim of the present invention is also to propose a composition for coating keratin fibres that allows good separation of the eyelashes during its application, without formation of bunches of eyelashes, and while ensuring smooth and uniform deposition of material (without lumps of composition).

An aim of the present patent application is more particularly to propose a mascara in which not only the waxes but also the pigments are dispersed homogeneously, the said mascara having a sufficiently thick texture to obtain a charging deposit, giving the eyelashes good volume, having a satisfactory consistency that allows easy application to the eyelashes and a uniform deposition, i.e. smooth and homogeneous. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the inventors of the present patent application have solved this (these) problem(s) by means of a particular emulsifying system containing a combination of at least three agents or families of surfactants.

The inventors of the present patent application have especially observed that the emulsifying system defined in the present patent application allows good dispersion of the pigments and/or waxes, this dispersion being of the same quality as those obtained with emulsifying systems based on triethanolamine stearate. This composition makes it possible to obtain charging makeup on keratin fibres, a smooth and uniform deposit on the said fibres and good separation of the made-up eyelashes.

Consequently, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, preferably the eyelashes, preferably a mascara composition, of the emulsion type, preferably wax(es) in water, comprising:

an aqueous phase,

- a waxy phase dispersed in the aqueous phase by means of an emulsifying system, in which the emulsifying system comprises at least three surfactants comprising:

- at least one C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxylated ether of C₈-C₂4 fatty alcohols comprising inclusively from 1 to 150 alkoxy groups,

- at least one C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxylated ester of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids comprising inclusively from 1 to 150 alkoxy groups, and

- at least one ester and/or one salt derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃o fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine, preferably a salt. The term "alkoxylated" means a compound comprising one or more alkoxy groups -(0-CH₂-CH₂)n-, i.e. one or more oxyethylene groups, or -(O- CH₂-CH₂- CH₂)n-, i.e. one or more oxypropylene groups, preferably one or more oxyethylene groups. The term "primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine" in particular means a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, it being understood that the term "primary" means a primary amine function, i.e. -NH₂, and the alkyl group being a linear or branched Ci-C₈ and preferably a branched C₄ hydrocarbon-based chain, such as 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl. This composition thus gives rise to a thick mascara, while at the same time conserving good dispersion of the pigments, a fine emulsion and a good result on application (charging and separating effect).

According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is also an assembly or kit for coating keratin fibres, comprising:

- at least one cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described previously, and

- at least one applicator for the composition, the said applicator comprising means, where appropriate in relief, configured to come into contact with the said keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, so as to smooth and/or separate the eyelashes or the eyebrows. Such reliefs may comprise teeth, bristles or the like. The said assembly, and in particular the said applicator, may optionally be equipped with means for vibrating and/or heating the said composition.

According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is also an assembly or kit for conditioning and applying a composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising:

- a device for conditioning the said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described previously,

- an applicator for the said composition.

The said applicator may be integrally attached to a handling member forming a cap for the said conditioning device. In other words, the said applicator may be mounted in a removable position on the said device between a closed position and an open position of a dispensing aperture of the device for conditioning the said composition. According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is also a process for coating keratin fibres, and in particular for making up the eyelashes, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres as described previously.

According to particular preferred embodiments of the present invention:

- the said C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxylated ether(s) of C₈-C₂4 fatty alcohols may comprise inclusively from 2 to 100 alkoxy groups, better still from 2 to 30 alkoxy groups and even better still from 2 to 20 alkoxy groups;

- the said C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ether(s) of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols may comprise a

Ci₂-C₂₀ and preferably Ci₆-Ci₈ fatty alcohol; this (or these) C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ether(s) of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols may comprise an oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol containing from 2 to 100 oxyethylene units, better still from 2 to 30 oxyethylene units and more preferentially from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units; this (or these) C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ether(s) of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- the said C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ester(s) of fatty acids and preferably C₂ alkoxylated ester(s) of C₈-C₂4 fatty alcohols may comprise inclusively from 20 to 60 alkoxy groups and more preferentially 40 alkoxy groups;

- the said C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ester(s) of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids may comprise a Ci₂- C₂₀ and preferably Ci₆-Ci₈ fatty acid; this (or these) C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ester(s) of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids may comprise an oxyethylenated ester of stearic acid containing inclusively from 20 to 60 oxyethylene units and more preferentially 40 oxyethylene units (also known as PEG-40 stearate); this (or these) alkoxylated ester(s) of C₈-C₂ fatty acids may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- the said ester and/or salt derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃o fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine may be derived from a Ci6-Ci₈ fatty acid; this (or these) ester(s) and/or salt(s) derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃o fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine may be derived from a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, the alkyl group being a linear or branched Ci-C₈ hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a branched C₄ hydrocarbon-based chain, such as 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2- methylpropyl; this (or these) ester(s) and/or salt(s) derived from at least one C₁₆-C₃o fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine may be 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2- methyl-2-propylamine stearate (also known as AMPD stearate); this (or these) ester(s) and/or salt(s) derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃₀ fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.5% and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- the emulsifying system, formed by the combination of surfactants in accordance with the present invention, may be present in a total content of greater than 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and preferably between 1.5% and 12.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- the emulsion may be of the wax(es)-in-water type;

- the said composition may comprise a fatty phase dispersed in the aqueous phase;

- the fatty phase may predominantly comprise waxes;

- the said composition may comprise one or more wax(es), preferably several;

- this or these wax(es) may be chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, waxy copolymers and esters thereof, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluoro waxes, and mixtures thereof;

- the said composition may comprise at least one wax chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax and rice wax, and mixtures thereof;

- the wax(es) may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still 7% by weight, or even 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- the emulsifying system used in the invention may constitute the main surfactant system of the cosmetic composition; - the cosmetic composition comprises less than 1 % and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine, or even is free of triethanolamine;

- the cosmetic composition comprises at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer and/or at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

- the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, for example a hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil;

- the said composition may comprise at least one volatile or non-volatile oil, for example a hydrocarbon-based oil or silicone oil;

- the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff chosen from pigments, and preferably chosen from metal oxides, in particular iron oxides and titanium oxides;

- the metal oxide(s) are preferably present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- the composition may be a makeup composition, a makeup base, a "top coat" composition to be applied over a makeup, or a cosmetic composition for treating or caring for keratin fibres.

Other characteristics, properties and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which may form a continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase comprises water. It may also comprise at least one water-soluble solvent.

In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible.

The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, and glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3- butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) is generally present in the composition according to the present patent application in a content ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably ranging from 25% to 80% by weight, preferentially ranging from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 35% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase

A fatty phase in accordance with the invention comprises at least one waxy phase.

This waxy phase comprises one or more waxes.

This fatty phase may also comprise constituents chosen especially from at least one volatile oil, at least one non-volatile oil, and mixtures thereof.

The said fatty phase may predominantly comprise waxes.

Waxy phase or wax(es)

The wax(es) under consideration in the context of the present invention are generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have a heat of fusion AHf of greater than or equal to 70

J/g.

Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystal lizable part, which is visible by X-ray observation.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the following parameters are measured:

- the melting point (T_f) of the wax, as mentioned previously corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature,

- AHf: the heat of fusion of the wax, corresponding to the integral entire melting curve obtained. This heat of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The wax(es) may be hydrocarbon-based waxes, fluoro waxes and/or silicone waxes and may be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

The wax(es) may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still 7% by weight, or even 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it is (they are) present in a content ranging from 12% to 40% by weight, better still from 14% to 35% by weight and even better still from 16% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax; rice wax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may preferably be used as wax(es).

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference lso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(1 ,1 ,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, bis(1 ,1 ,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.

Mention may also be made of silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluoro waxes.

The wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18L57 or else the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 and 22L73 by the company Sophim may also be used. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.

The composition may comprise at least one apolar wax. Preferably, the wax(es) comprise(s) one or more apolar wax(es) chosen from polyethylene wax, paraffin wax and ozokerite, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may comprise at least one polar wax. The term "polar wax" means waxes comprising in their chemical structure, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one highly electronegative heteroatom, such as O, N or P.

Preferably, the wax(es) comprise(s) one or more polar wax(es) chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, natural (or blanched) beeswax and synthetic beeswax, and mixtures thereof. A synthetic beeswax that may be mentioned is the wax sold under the name Cyclochem 326 A by Evonik Goldschmidt (I NCI name: Synthetic Beeswax).

Preferably, the composition comprises a mixture of polar wax(es) and of apolar wax(es).

The composition may comprise at least one wax having a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force, measured at 20°C using the texture analyser sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless- steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm, travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/second, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.

According to one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one wax referred to as a tacky wax, i.e. a wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

Using such a tacky wax may especially make it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition that applies easily to the eyelashes, attaches well to the eyelashes and leads to the formation of a smooth, uniform and thickening makeup result.

The tacky wax used may especially have a tack ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N.s, especially ranging from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N.s, especially ranging from 2 N.s to 10 N.s and in particular ranging from 2 N.s to 5 N.s. The tack of the wax is determined by measuring the change in force (compression force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 20°C, using the texture analyser sold under the name TA-TX2i® by Rheo, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer spindle forming an angle of 45°.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10°C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25°C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 20°C before measuring the tack.

The texture analyser spindle is displaced at a speed of 0.5 mm/s, then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 2 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.

During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases greatly until it becomes zero, and then, during the withdrawal of the spindle, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then rises again to the value 0. The tack corresponds to the integral of the curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to negative values of the force (stretching force). The tack value is expressed in N.s.

The tacky wax that may be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, especially ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa or even ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.

The hardness is measured according to the protocol described previously. Tacky waxes that may be used include a C20-C40 alkyl

(hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a C20-C40 alkyl 12-(12'- hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, of formula (II):

in which m is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (II).

Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.

The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than 45°C.

Use may also be made of the microcrystalline wax sold under the reference SP18 by Strahl and Pitsch, which has a hardness of around 0.46 MPa and a tack value of around 1 N.s.

The wax(es) may be present in the form of an aqueous wax microdispersion. The term "aqueous wax microdispersion" means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles, in which the size of the said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μηη.

Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are described especially in Microemulsions Theory and Practice, L.M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.

In particular, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of some of the water, followed by gradual addition of hot water with stirring. Intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water-in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in-water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal wax particles is obtained.

The wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using an agitation means such as ultrasonic waves, a high- pressure homogenizer or turbomixers.

The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have mean sizes of less than 1 μηπ (especially ranging from 0.02 μηη to 0.99 μηι), preferably less than 0.5 μηπ (especially ranging from 0.06 μηι to 0.5 μπι). Oil or organic solvent

The compositions according to the present patent application may also contain one or more oil(s) or organic solvent(s). The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil and/or at least one non-volatile oil, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile oil

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil.

The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm²/min, limits included.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m³ that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the said oil or the said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm²) and per unit of time (minutes).

This volatile oil may be hydrocarbon-based.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile branched alkane(s). The expression "one or more volatile branched alkane(s)" means, without preference, "one or more volatile branched alkane oil(s)".

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of C₈-Ci₆ branched alkanes, for instance C₈-Ci₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, C₈-Ci₆ branched esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof, and is especially isododecane.

The composition according to the invention may contain one or more volatile linear alkane(s). The term "one or more volatile linear alkane(s)" means, without preference, "one or more volatile linear alkane oil(s)".

A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

A "volatile linear alkane" that is suitable for the invention means a cosmetic linear alkane, which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 325 Pa), which is liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm²/min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprise from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms.

As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis (mixtures of distinct alkanes that differ by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1 ), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11 ) and n-tridecane (C13) described in Example 1 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 by the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references, respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.

The linear alkane may be used alone or as a mixture of at least two distinct alkanes that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 , and especially a mixture of at least two linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms that differ from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of C1 1/C13 volatile linear alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 linear alkanes, in particular an n- undecane/n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155 059).

As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile silicone oil or solvent that is compatible with cosmetic use.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups. According to one embodiment, the said composition comprises less than 10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free of silicone oil.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclic polysiloxanes and linear polysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. Volatile linear polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane. Volatile cyclic polysiloxanes that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

As a variant or additionally, the composition prepared may comprise at least one volatile fluoro oil.

The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

Volatile fluoro oils that may be mentioned include nonafluoromethoxybutane and perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 40% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the volatile oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2% to 20%, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred variant, the composition is free of volatile oil. Non-volatile oil

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonvolatile oil.

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm²/min.

The said at least one non-volatile oil that is suitable for the present invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils.

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that are suitable for the present invention may be chosen in particular from:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C4 to C28, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Sasol;

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof;

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyi octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2 undecylpentadecanol; and

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that are suitable for the present invention may be chosen in particular from:

- the non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The content of non-volatile oil or organic solvent in the composition in accordance with the invention may range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 % to 25% by weight and better still from 0.1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably a non-volatile silicone oil.

According to one preferred variant, the composition may be free of non-volatile oil.

According to one preferred embodiment, the composition comprises less than 5% by weight of oil(s) and is more preferentially free of volatile oil and of non-volatile oil.

Emulsifying system

Combination of surfactants in accordance with the invention

The compositions according to the invention comprise an emulsifying system. This emulsifying system comprises in combination a plurality of surfactants. The surfactants used in the composition according to the invention comprise:

- at least one alkoxylated C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ ether of C₈-C₂4, preferably C₁₂-C₂0 and more preferentially Ci₆-Ci₈ fatty alcohols, such an ether preferably comprising inclusively from 1 to 150 C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxy groups, preferably inclusively from 2 to 100 C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxy groups; the alkoxy groups are preferably oxyethylene units; this ether is advantageously chosen from the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol containing 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-2), for instance Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema, the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Steareth-20), for instance Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema, the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol containing 30 oxyethylene units (CTFA name Ceteareth-30), the oxyethylenated ether of a mixture of C₁₂-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (CTFA name C₁₂-15 Pareth-7), for instance the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by Shell Chemicals, and a mixture thereof, and is preferably the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol containing 20 oxyethylene units; this (or these) C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ether(s) of C₈- C₂₄ fatty alcohols may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- at least one C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxylated ester of a C₈-C₂₄ fatty acid, comprising inclusively from 1 to 150 C₂-C₈ and preferably C₂ alkoxy groups, more preferentially from 20 to 60 alkoxy groups; the said alkoxy groups are preferably oxyethylene units; this ester is advantageously chosen from PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P® by the company Uniqema, and a mixture thereof; this (or these) alkoxylated ester(s) of a C₈-C₂₄ fatty acid may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition;

- at least one ester and/or salt derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃o and preferably Ci₈ fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine, preferably a primary dihydroxyalkylamine containing as alkyl group a linear or branched Ci-C₈ hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a branched C₄ hydrocarbon-based chain, such as 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl; this (or these) ester(s) and/or salt(s) derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃₀ fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine may be 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methyl-2-propylamine stearate (also known as 2-amino-2- methylpropane-1 ,3-diol stearate or more generally AMPD stearate); this (or these) ester(s) and/or salt(s) derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃o fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably between 0.5% and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The said salt derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃o and preferably d₈ fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is preferably composed more precisely of an anionic surfactant formed by the Ci₆-C₃o and preferably Ci₈ fatty acid(s), the said at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine then forming a cationic counterion for this (or these) Ci₆-C₃o and preferably Ci₈ fatty acid(s).

These surfactants produce a good fatty phase-in-water emulsion, in particular wax(es)-in-water emulsion, which is stable and especially gives the composition a viscosity that is suitable to obtain a uniform, separating, coating deposit.

The H LB ( ydrop ilic-lipophilic balance) value within the Griffin meaning is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256.

These surfactants in accordance with the invention are advantageously present in a total content ranging from 1 .5% to 12.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, these surfactants in accordance with the invention may be present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, especially ranging from 3% to 10% and better still 4% to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such contents produce a good emulsion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase and in particular of the waxes in the aqueous phase.

This combination of surfactants constitutes the main emulsifying system or surfactant system of the composition.

The term "main surfactant system" means a system which, in its absence, does not lead to the formation of a stable composition.

The term "stable" means a composition which, after having been placed in an oven at 45°C for two months, does not have, after returning to room temperature, any grains that are perceptible to the touch, when a thin layer of the composition is sheared between the fingers. According to one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present patent application comprises less than 1% and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine, and better still is free of triethanolamine.

According to one preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present patent application comprises less than 1% and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of triethanolamine stearate, and better still is free of triethanolamine stearate.

Additional surfactant(s)

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional surfactant(s), i.e. other than those corresponding to the surfactants in accordance with the definitions of the present invention.

This (these) additional surfactant(s) may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic and amphoteric surfactants. Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

a) additional nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, used alone or as a mixture; mention may be made especially of:

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, which may comprise 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units;

- esters, especially of C₈-C₂4 and preferably Ci₆-C₂2 fatty acids, and of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance glyceryl monostearate polyoxyethylenated with 200 oxyethylene units, sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat S® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat O® sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Varionic LI 13® sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat L® sold by the company Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate polyoxyethylenated with 30 oxyethylene units, for instance the product Tagat I® from the company Goldschmidt;

- esters of a fatty acid, especially a C₈-C₂4 and preferably Ci₆-C₂₂ fatty acid, and of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units), for instance polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60® by the company Uniqema;

- dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5220® by the company Dow Corning;

- dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as the product sold under the names Finsolv SLB 101 ® and 201 ® by the company Finetex;

- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also known as

EO/PO polycondensates;

and mixtures thereof.

EO/PO polycondensates are more particularly copolymers formed from polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol blocks, for instance polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates. These triblock polycondensates have, for example, the following chemical structure:

H-(0-CH₂-CH₂)a-(0-CH(CH₃)-CH₂)b-(0-CH₂-CH₂)a-OH,

in which formula a ranges from 2 to 120 and b ranges from 1 to 100.

The EO/PO polycondensates preferably have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 15 000 and better still ranging from 2000 to 13 000. Advantageously, the said EO/PO polycondensates have a cloud point, at 10 g/l in distilled water, of greater than or equal to 20°C, preferably of greater than or equal to 60°C. The cloud point is measured according to the standard ISO 1065. Mention may be made, as EO/PO polycondensate which can be used according to the invention, of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the Synperonic® names, such as Synperonic PE/L44® and Synperonic PE/F127®, by ICI.

b) additional nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than 8 at 25°C, as mentioned above, such as:

- saccharide esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, for instance Arlatone 2121 ® sold by the company ICI or Span 65V from the company Uniqema; - esters, especially of a C₈-C₂4 and preferably Ci₆-C₂2 fatty acid, and of polyols, especially of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, for example sold under the name Tegin M® by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312® by the company Hijls, and polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate and glyceryl ricinoleate;

- the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning;

c) additional anionic surfactants such as:

- polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially aminated salts or salts of alkali metals, and mixtures thereof;

- phosphoric esters and salts thereof, and in particular C14-C24 and preferably C16-C18 alkyl phosphate(s) and mixtures thereof; they may be chosen in particular from DEA oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N 10N from the company Croda), cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan or Arlatone MAP 160K from the company Uniqema), stearyl phosphate and cetearyl phosphate;

- sulfosuccinates such as Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate and Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate;

- alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;

- isethionates;

- acylglutamates such as Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate (Amisoft

HS-21 R® sold by the company Ajinomoto), and mixtures thereof.

Examples of cationic surfactants that may especially be mentioned include:

- alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium ethosulfate,

- ammonium salts such as (C₁₂-30 alkyl )tri(Ci_-4 alkyl)ammonium halides, for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride).

The compositions according to the invention may also contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such as N-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides such as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold under the name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical.

This (these) additional surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in a content of between 0 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Co-surf actant(s)

According to one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one co-surfactant. This (these) co-surfactant(s) are advantageously chosen from fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol(s) comprise(s) from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

This (these) co-surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in a content of between 0.1 % and 5% by weight and better still between 0.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming polymer

The compositions according to the present patent application may also contain at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer.

In the present patent application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer that is capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a macroscopically continuous film that adheres to the eyelashes, and preferably a cohesive film, better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that the said film can be isolated and manipulated individually, for example when the said film is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone- coated surface.

In general, the content of "film-forming polymer" solids in the compositions according to the present patent application ranges from 0.1% to 40%, preferably from 0.5% to 30% and better still from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hydrophilic film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer or may be in dispersion in an aqueous medium.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include:

- proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;

- acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;

- vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

- gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;

- alginates and carrageenans;

- glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;

- shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins; - deoxyribonucleic acid;

- mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfates;

and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, which is generally known as a latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

Aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that may be used include the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A- 1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company Avecia- Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the company Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer, Allianz Opt® by the company Rohm & Haas or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Neorez R-981 ® and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Avalure UR-445® and Sancure 2060® by the company Noveon, Impranil 85® by the company Bayer, Aquamere H-151 1 ® by the company Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions, for instance Mexomer PAM®, aqueous polyvinyl acetate dispersions, for instance Vinybran® from the company Nisshin Chemical or those sold by the company Union Carbide, aqueous dispersions of vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer, such as Styleze W from ISP, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those sold under the references Hybridur® by the company Air Products or Duromer® from National Starch, core/shell type dispersions: for example those sold by the company Atofina under the reference Kynar (core: fluoro, shell: acrylic) or those described in document US 5 188 899 (core: silica, shell: silicone), and mixtures thereof.

The lipophilic polymer may be in solution or in dispersion in a non-aqueous solvent phase.

Hydrophilic gelling agents

The compositions according to the present patent application may also contain at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and may be chosen from:

- acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or the salts thereof and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F® or Versicol K® by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8® by the company Ciba Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type,

- copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten® by the company Hercules, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen® F by the company Henkel,

- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of Pemulen type,

- AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company Clariant,

- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of Sepigel® or Simulgel® type sold by the company SEPPIC, and

- AMPS/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked), and mixtures thereof.

- associative polymers and in particular associative polyurethanes such as the Ci6-OE₁₂o-Ci6 polymer from the company Servo Delden (sold under the name SER AD FX1 100, this molecule bearing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Rheolate 205 bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas bearing a C₂o alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at 20% solids in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 and SER AD FX1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers,

- and mixtures thereof.

Some of the water-soluble film-forming polymers mentioned above may also act as water-soluble gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dyestuffs

The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least one dyestuff.

This (or these) dyestuff(s) are preferably chosen from pulverulent dyes, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pulverulent dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres, and preferably from pigments.

The pigments may be white or coloured, mineral and/or organic, and coated or uncoated. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxide, and also iron, titanium or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of D & C type and lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium.

The nacres may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11 , D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.

Preferably, the pigments contained in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from metal oxides.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, and in particular from 3% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the dyestuff(s) are chosen from one or more metal oxides that are present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously inclusively between 3% and 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fillers

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

The fillers may be selected from those that are well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, and lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of mica, talc, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders, for instance the Nylon® sold under the name Orgasol® by the company Atochem, poly-p-alanine powders and polyethylene powders, powders of tetra-fluoro-ethylene polymers, for instance Teflon®, lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance the products sold under the name Expancel® by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those sold under the name Polytrap® by the company Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate.

It is also possible to use a compound that is capable of swelling on heating, and especially heat-expandable particles such as non-expanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate copolymer or of acrylonitrile homopolymer or copolymer, for instance those sold, respectively, under the references Expancel^® 820 DU 40 and Expancel^® 007WU by the company Akzo Nobel.

The fillers may represent from 0.1 % to 25% by weight and in particular from 0.2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Fibres

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fibre that can improve the lengthening effect.

The term "fibre" should be understood as meaning an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is very much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fibre is inscribed. In particular, the ratio L/D (or aspect ratio) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500 and more particularly from 5 to 150.

The fibres that may be used in the composition of the invention may be mineral or organic fibres, of synthetic or natural origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape and may especially have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunted and/or polished to prevent injury.

In particular, the fibres have a length ranging from 1 μηη to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more particularly from 0.3 mm to 3.5 mm. Their cross section may be included in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 μπι, in particular ranging from 100 nm to 100 μπι and more particularly from 1 μηπ to 50 μηη. The weight or yarn count of fibres is often given in denier or decitex and represents the weight in grams per 9 km of yarn. The fibres according to the invention can in particular have a count chosen within the range from 0.15 to 30 denier and especially from 0.18 to

18 denier.

The fibres that may be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibres, and may be mineral or organic fibres, of synthetic or natural origin. Moreover, the fibres may or may not be surface-treated, may be coated or uncoated, and may be coloured or uncoloured.

As fibres that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibres such as polyamide (Nylon^®) fibres or rigid fibres such as polyimideamide fibres, for instance those sold under the names Kermel® and Kermel Tech® by the company Rhodia or poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) fibres sold especially under the name Kevlar^® by the company DuPont de Nemours.

The fibres may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cosmetic active agents

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.

As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescers, plasticizers, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a leave-in composition. Advantageously, the composition is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

The examples that follow are given as illustrations of the present invention, and shall not limit the scope thereof.

ASSEMBLY An assembly for coating keratin fibres according to the invention may comprise an applicator suitable for applying the said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres and, where appropriate, a conditioning device suitable for receiving the said composition.

Applicator

The applicator comprises means for smoothing and/or separating keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, especially in the form of teeth, bristles or other reliefs.

The applicator is arranged to apply the composition to the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and may comprise, for example, a brush or a comb.

The applicator may also be used for finishing of the makeup, over a region of the eyelashes or eyebrows that is made up or laden with composition.

The brush may comprise a twisted core and bristles held between the turns of the core, or may be made in yet another way.

The comb is, for example, produced from a single part by moulding of a plastic.

In certain embodiments, the application member is mounted at the end of a wand, which wand may be flexible, which may contribute to improving the comfort during application.

Packaging device

The packaging device comprises a container for housing the composition for coating keratin fibres. This composition may then be withdrawn from the container by immersing the applicator therein.

This applicator may be firmly attached to a member for closing the container. This closing member may form a member for gripping the applicator. This gripping member may form a cap to be removably mounted on the said container by any suitable means, such as screwing, click-fastening, coupling, etc. Such a container may thus reversibly house the said applicator.

This container can be optionally equipped with a wiper suitable for removing a surplus of product taken by the applicator.

A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or the eyebrows may also include the following steps:

- forming a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or the eyebrows,

- leaving the deposit on the eyelashes or the eyebrows, it being possible for the deposit to dry.

It should be noted that, according to another embodiment, the applicator may form a product container. In such a case, a container may, for example, be provided for in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the application members in relief.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly may be in the form of a kit, it being possible for the applicator and the packaging device to be housed separately in the same packaging article.

EXAMPLES

1/ Preparation of a mascara formulation according to the invention compared with two other mascara formulations outside the invention

Example according Comparative Comparative

Ingredients

to the invention Example 1 Example 2 (with the contents opposite, in %)

2-Amino-2-methyl-1 ,3- propanediol sold under the

0.9 0.9 0.9 reference AMPD Ultra PC by

Dow Chemical

Disodium

ethylenediaminetetraacetate 0.2 0.2 0.2 dihydrate

Black iron oxide 7 7 7

Carnauba wax 3.5 3.5 3.5

White beeswax 4.4 4.4 4.4

Pure double-distilled cetyl

2 2 2 alcohol Protected refined paraffin 13.8 13.8 13.8

Hydroxyethylcellulose

quaternized with 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium

chloride, sold under the 0.1 0.1 0.1 reference Ucare Polymer JR 400

LT by the company Amerchol

(Dow Chemical)

Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.2 1 .2 1.2

Unstabilized sodium

polymethacrylate at 25% in

water, sold under the reference 1 1 1 Darvan 7-N by the company

Vanderbilt

Debacterized powdered gum

3.4 3.4 3.4 arabic

Oxyethylenated (20 OE) and

oxypropylenated (20 OP)

polydimethylsiloxane (DP: 170 - VISCOSITY: 1000 cSt) sold 0.5 0.5 0.5 under the reference Q2-5220

Resin Modifier by the company

Dow Corning

Phenylethyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5

Deionized water (qs) 55.49 55.49 55.49

Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5

Stearic acid 2.5 2.5 2.5

Oxyethylenated (20 OE) stearyl

alcohol sold under the reference

1 / 3 Brij 78 by the company Uniqema

Polyethylene glycol (40 OE)

stearate sold under the reference 2 3 / Myrj 52P® by the company Uniqema

Provitamin B5: D-Panthenol 0.01 0.01 0.01

These compositions were prepared as follows:

/. Preparation of the fatty phase

All the starting materials used are carefully weighed out using a balance

(accuracy 0.01 g).

The various waxes and the cetyl alcohol are melted in a 500 ml_ jacketed heating pan with circulation of hot oil to control the temperature. The mixture is heated to about 96- 98°C.

Once the waxes have melted, they are homogenized by stirring using a Moritz blender, which is stirring of rotor-stator type: this machine consists of a fixed part in which a second mobile part rotates at variable speed, and is used for making emulsions since it can produce a very high shear.

When the waxes are molten and homogenized, the pigments are added, and the whole is then homogenized again in the Moritz blender. The temperature is then checked (by means of a probe) and adjusted to 95-96°C if necessary.

/^'/. Preparation of the aqueous phase

A high-sided 600 ml_ beaker is used, which is first weighed empty in order to adjust the mass of water before emulsification. The amount of water required, preheated by an electric kettle, is stirred slowly in this beaker using a Rayneri blender.

A Rayneri blender is a laboratory stirrer equipped with a paddle or turbomixer for stirring at variable speed while constituents are being incorporated.

The (co)polymers and then the surfactants are successively introduced, with continued slow stirring. Between each introduction, care is taken to ensure good dissolution of the compound and homogenization of the medium.

When all the compounds are dissolved, it is necessary to adjust the mass of water in order to compensate for the evaporation that has taken place. The antifoam and the co-preservative are then added.

The aqueous phase is then placed on a water bath (nominal temperature 90-

92°C) until a temperature of 88-90°C is reached. /^'/^'/^'. Emulsification

When the two phases are at the desired temperature, the aqueous phase is added very slowly into the fatty phase while gradually increasing the stirring; the phase inversion is then visible as a change in viscosity. The stirring is set to the maximum for 10 minutes (about 3500 rpm), but, for certain formulations, there is a risk of overspilling if the stirring is too vigorous. In order for the emulsion to be homogeneous, it is occasionally necessary to use a flexible spatula to scrape the edges and bring the product to the centre in order for it all to be entrained by the paddle. iv. Temperature reduction

After the emulsification, the heating pan is placed on a Rayneri blender equipped with a butterfly paddle, which allows blending and homogenization during the temperature reduction, at low shear. The stirring speed is low so as not to incorporate air bubbles.

By means of the oil bath, the temperature is reduced gradually: in 10°C steps, homogenizing thoroughly at each step, especially at about 70°C (critical temperature where the mascara begins substantially to set to a solid). It is occasionally necessary to mix using the flexible spatula in order to avoid the formation of a block around the paddle, which would then not be blended and would be inhomogeneous. However, there is a risk of incorporation of air bubbles via this method, and so the formulator must find the correct compromise between homogeneity and air bubbles. v. End of formulation

The mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed jar to prevent it from drying out on contact with air; it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formulation and the correct dispersion of the pigments.

21 Protocols and results

The compositions prepared are then tested on a sample of clean eyelashes, by application of these compositions using a brush.

The composition in accordance with the invention has a fluid texture, the deposit is constructed coat after coat, the composition coats the eyelashes well, the makeup result is uniform and the eyelash fringe is well-developed.

The composition of comparative example 1 has an excessively pasty texture, is too adherent and is difficult to deposit, leading to great difficulty on application. The eyelashes coated with this composition are stuck together in bunches and it is thus difficult to manage the packets formed. In addition, this composition coats the eyelashes irregularly, in the sense that it does not coat the eyelashes over their entire length, and forms lumps of composition here and there.

The composition of comparative example 2 has an excessively fluid texture, which is deposited satisfactorily, but sticks the eyelashes together in bunches due to its excessive fluidity. Furthermore, a few lumps of composition are formed at the free end of the eyelashes, and no volumizing effect is obtained on the eyelashes on application of such a composition.

It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

Throughout the application, the wording "comprising one" or "including one" means "comprising at least one" or "including at least one", unless otherwise specified.

Claims

1 . Emulsion-type cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising: - an aqueous phase,

a waxy phase dispersed in the aqueous phase by means of an emulsifying system, and

in which the emulsifying system comprises at least three surfactants comprising:

- at least one ester and/or salt derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃₀ fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine, preferably a salt.

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , in which the said C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ether of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols comprises a Ci₂-C₂₀ and preferably Ci₆-Ci₈ fatty alcohol.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the said C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ether of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols comprises an oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol comprising inclusively from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units.

4. Composition according to Claim 1 , 2 or 3, in which the said C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ether of C₈-C₂₄ fatty alcohols is present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said C₂-C₈ alkoxylated ester of C₈-C₂₄ fatty acids comprises a Ci₂-C₂₀ and preferably Ci₆-Ci₈ fatty acid.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said C2-C8 alkoxylated ester of C8-C24 fatty acids is an oxyethylenated ester of stearic acid comprising inclusively from 20 to 60 oxyethylene units.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said alkoxylated ester of C8-C24 fatty acids is present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 1 % and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said ester and/or salt derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is derived from a C16-C18 fatty acid.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said ester and/or salt derived from at least one C16-C30 fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is derived from a primary dihydroxyalkylamine, the alkyl group being a linear or branched d-Cs hydrocarbon-based chain, preferably a branched C4 hydrocarbon-based chain, such as 1 ,3-dihydroxy-2-methylpropyl.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said ester and/or salt derived from at least one Ci₆-C₃₀ fatty acid and from at least one primary (poly)hydroxyalkylamine is present in a content of greater than or equal to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.5% and 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

1 1 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the emulsifying system is present in a total content of greater than or equal to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and preferably between 1.5% and 12.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the waxy phase is present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and preferably between 16% and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the waxy phase comprises one or more wax(es) chosen from beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumach wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and esters thereof, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, silicone waxes, for instance alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, and fluoro waxes, and mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the waxy phase comprises at least one wax chosen from candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, polyethylene wax and rice wax, and mixtures thereof.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one dyestuff chosen from one or more pulverulent dyes, preferably metal oxides, and in particular iron oxides.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one or more additional surfactant(s) and/or one or more co-surfactant(s).

17. Process for coating keratin fibres, in particular for making up the eyelashes, comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres according to any one of Claims 1 to 16.