WO2012168216A2 - Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations which are free from fatty alcohols - Google Patents
Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations which are free from fatty alcohols Download PDFInfo
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- WO2012168216A2 WO2012168216A2 PCT/EP2012/060559 EP2012060559W WO2012168216A2 WO 2012168216 A2 WO2012168216 A2 WO 2012168216A2 EP 2012060559 W EP2012060559 W EP 2012060559W WO 2012168216 A2 WO2012168216 A2 WO 2012168216A2
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- stearate
- polyglyceryl
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- emulsion
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
Definitions
- the invention includes cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate which are free of fatty alcohols.
- Emulsions in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations.
- Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases.
- one of the two liquids W / O
- the liquids pure or as solutions
- O / W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
- the basic character for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water.
- a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the reverse principle, with the basic character being determined by the oil.
- Emulsions for their formation and stabilization generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
- fatty alcohols such as myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, etc. are often used.
- the generic term fatty alcohols stands for monohydric primary alcohols with 8 to 22
- Carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains are obtained by a reduction of the triglycerides, fatty acids or fatty acid methyl esters and form elementary raw materials for the production of various chemical secondary products. What the
- Chain components of 16 and 18 C atoms are suitable as classical components for cosmetic or dermatological creams and ointments. Depending on their molecular weight, they are high-boiling oily liquids, waxy masses or solid products, e.g. Octanol (caprylic alcohol), octenol, octadienol, decanol (capric alcohol), decenol, decadienol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), dodecenol, dodecadienol, tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol), hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), octadecanol (stearyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol),
- Octadecenol oleyl alcohol or erucyl alcohol
- octadecene diol ricinoleic alcohol
- cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
- glyceryl stearate citrate Imwitor®
- polyglyceryl-10-stearate polyglyceryl-10-stearate
- Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
- Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
- Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1 -S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
- Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
- Heliogel® which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
- PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
- JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
- WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens.
- DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
- DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more.
- US 20060018853 describes peel-off preparation with PG-10-stearate with
- polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
- formulations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be formulated without fatty alcohols and have sufficient stability without exhibiting the abovementioned problems of the fatty alcohols.
- the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparation comprising polyglyceryl-10-stearate, preferably less than 6% by weight, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, and comprising no fatty alcohols, in particular none of the chain length between C12-20 and most preferably C16-18.
- the preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion.
- the preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and thus satisfy the desire for well-tolerated, mild products, without compromising stability is impaired.
- Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight.
- the minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
- polyglyceryl-10-stearate also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
- Fatty alcohol-free means that the proportion of fatty alcohols, in particular C12-20, less than 1%, based on the total mass of the preparation, more preferably below 0.25%, and especially below 0, 1%.
- Variability can be achieved in terms of the adjusted skin feel of the preparation.
- PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases, the same product is obtained. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
- Figure 1 shows these consistency studies. The consistency was determined using a consistency determination device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087).
- Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
- the consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
- a process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
- PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
- Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or Change in droplet size with time or creaming.
- the formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
- Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
- additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettklareester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
- Ammonium soaps ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, citroglyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,
- Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol distearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Isostearylglyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,
- Lactoglycerides Lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
- Lactic acid monoglycerides mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
- Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
- Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate Isolan GPS
- polyglyceryl-4 isostearate Isolan GI 34
- polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride
- propylene glycol stearate SE propylene glycol fatty acid ester
- propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester rapeseed lecithin
- sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp.
- Sorbitan monolaurate sorbate 20
- sorbitan di-citrate sorbitan butucate
- Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
- the preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate.
- the proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
- Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
- Lecithins Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed. Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement. In addition to their structure-forming properties, lecithins are ascribed numerous functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
- Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
- the preparations according to the invention also contain no parabens,
- DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser.
- formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial.
- Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume.
- perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
- Trigger contact allergies and is thus increasingly rejected by consumers.
- Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
- Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the
- the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
- cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for.
- Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanning, buffers, pH regulators, herbal
- Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
- This process is called hot / hot process.
- Cold / cold method is thus analogous, you have a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
- thermally labile active substances such as natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or individual perfume ingredients.
- Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
- Titanium dioxide 2.5 1.2 0.15 -
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Abstract
Description
Fettalkohol-freie kosmetische oder dermatologische Emulsionszubereitungen Fatty alcohol-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations
Die Erfindung umfasst kosmetische oder dermatologische Emulsionszubereitungen enthaltend Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, die frei von Fettalkoholen sind. The invention includes cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations containing polyglyceryl-10-stearate which are free of fatty alcohols.
Als kosmetische oder medizinische Zubereitungen sind oftmals Emulsionen, insbesondere W/O-, O/W-, O/W/O oder W/O/W-Emulsionen, im Einsatz. Unter Emulsionen versteht man im Allgemeinen heterogene Systeme, die aus zwei nicht oder nur begrenzt miteinander mischbaren Flüssigkeiten bestehen, die üblicherweise als Phasen bezeichnet werden. In einer Emulsion ist eine der beiden Flüssigkeiten (W/O) in Form feinster Tröpfchen in der anderen Flüssigkeit dispergiert. Die Flüssigkeiten (rein oder als Lösungen) liegen in einer Emulsion in einer mehr oder weniger feinen Verteilung vor, die im Allgemeinen nur begrenzt stabil ist. Emulsions, in particular W / O, O / W, O / W / O or W / O / W emulsions, are often used as cosmetic or medical preparations. Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems which consist of two liquids which are immiscible or only slightly miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two liquids (W / O) is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine distribution, which is generally limited stability.
Sind die beiden Flüssigkeiten Wasser und Öl und liegen Öltröpfchen fein verteilt in Wasser vor, so handelt es sich um eine ÖI-in-Wasser-Emulsion (O/W-Emulsion, z. B. Milch). Der Grundcharakter, zum Beispiel elektrische Leitfähigkeit, Sensorik, Anfärbbarkeit der kontinuierlichen Phase, einer O/W-Emulsion ist durch das Wasser geprägt. Bei einer Wasser-in-ÖI-Emulsion (W/O-Emulsion, z. B. Butter) handelt es sich um das umgekehrte Prinzip, wobei der Grundcharakter hier durch das Öl bestimmt wird. If the two liquids are water and oil and oil droplets are finely distributed in water, then it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg milk). The basic character, for example electrical conductivity, sensor technology, dyeability of the continuous phase, an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the reverse principle, with the basic character being determined by the oil.
Der Stand der Technik kennt mehrere wesentliche Faktoren, die einen positiven Einfluss auf die Stabilität und Rheologie von Emulsionen haben. The prior art knows several important factors that have a positive influence on the stability and rheology of emulsions.
Emulsionen benötigen zu ihrer Bildung und zur Stabilisierung im Allgemeinen einen oder mehrere Emulgatoren, Verdicker und/oder Konsistenzgeber, um über einen kosmetisch akzeptablen Zeitraum stabil zu sein, im Allgemeinen 1 Jahr nach dem Öffnen einer kosmetischen Zubereitung. Emulsions for their formation and stabilization generally require one or more emulsifiers, thickeners and / or bodying agents to be stable over a cosmetically acceptable period of time, generally 1 year after opening a cosmetic preparation.
Dazu werden oft große Mengen an Emulgatoren benötigt. Dies wiederum kann bei This often requires large amounts of emulsifiers. This in turn can be at
Konsumenten zu Missempfindungen bis zur Unverträglichkeit und im Extremfall sogar zu Phänomene wie die Mallorca Akne o.ä. führen. Consumers to misperceptions to intolerance and in extreme cases, even to phenomena such as Mallorca acne or similar. to lead.
Wünschenswert ist es daher Emulsionszubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die möglichst geringe Mengen an Emulgatoren umfassen und dennoch ausreichend stabil formuliert sind. Zur Stabilisierung oder Verdickung von Emulsionen werden häufig Fettalkohole, wie zum Beispiel Myristylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Stearylalkohol Palmitylalkohol usw. verwendet. Der Sammelbegriff Fettalkohole steht für einwertige primäre Alkohole mit 8 bis 22 It is therefore desirable to provide emulsion formulations which comprise the smallest possible amounts of emulsifiers and are nevertheless sufficiently stable in formulated. To stabilize or thicken emulsions, fatty alcohols such as myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, etc. are often used. The generic term fatty alcohols stands for monohydric primary alcohols with 8 to 22
Kohlenstoff-Atomen und verzweigten oder unverzweigten Ketten. Sie werden durch eine Reduktion der Triglyceride, Fettsäuren bzw. Fettsäuremethylester gewonnen und bilden elementare Grundstoffe zur Herstellung diverser chemischer Folgeprodukte. Was die Carbon atoms and branched or unbranched chains. They are obtained by a reduction of the triglycerides, fatty acids or fatty acid methyl esters and form elementary raw materials for the production of various chemical secondary products. What the
Kettenlänge betrifft, ist eine gerade Anzahl an C-Atomen ein Kennzeichen für den Regarding chain length, an even number of carbon atoms is a hallmark of the
natürlichen Ursprung. natural origin.
Als klassische Komponenten für kosmetische oder dermatologische Cremes und Salben sind Kettenlängen von 16 und 18 C-Atomen geeignet. In Abhängigkeit ihrer Molmasse handelt es sich um hochsiedende ölige Flüssigkeiten, wachsweiche Massen oder feste Produkte z.B. Octanol (Caprylalkohol), Octenol, Octadienol, Decanol (Caprinalkohol), Decenol, Decadienol, Dodecanol (Laurylalkohol), Dodecenol, Dodecadienol, Tetradecanol (Myristylalkohol), Hexadecanol (Cetylalkohol), Octadecanol (Stearylalkohol oder Isostearylalkohol), Chain components of 16 and 18 C atoms are suitable as classical components for cosmetic or dermatological creams and ointments. Depending on their molecular weight, they are high-boiling oily liquids, waxy masses or solid products, e.g. Octanol (caprylic alcohol), octenol, octadienol, decanol (capric alcohol), decenol, decadienol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), dodecenol, dodecadienol, tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol), hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), octadecanol (stearyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol),
Octadecenol (Oleylalkohol oder Erucylalkohol), Octadecendiol (Ricinolalkohol), Octadecenol (oleyl alcohol or erucyl alcohol), octadecene diol (ricinoleic alcohol),
Octadecadienol (Linoleylalkohol), Octadecatrienol (Linolenylalkohol), Eicosanol Octadecadienol (linoleyl alcohol), octadecatrienol (linolenyl alcohol), eicosanol
(Arachidylalkohol), Eicosenol (Gadoleylalkohol), Docosanol (Behenylalkohol) oder Docosenol (Erucylalkohol oder Brassidylalkohol). Besonderen Ausführungsform werden als Mischungen von gesättigten primären Alkoholen mit 14-20 Kohlenstoffatomen angeboten, insbesondere Cetylstearylalkohol. (Arachidyl alcohol), eicosenol (gadoleyl alcohol), docosanol (behenyl alcohol) or docosenol (erucyl alcohol or brassidyl alcohol). Particular embodiments are offered as mixtures of saturated primary alcohols having 14-20 carbon atoms, especially cetylstearyl alcohol.
Fettalkohole bewirken jedoch ein charakteristisches, wachsiges, stumpfes und reichhaltiges Hautgefühl. Je nach Produkt, Zielgruppe und/oder Produktkonzept ist diese Eigenschaft aber nicht immer gewollt. However, fatty alcohols cause a characteristic, waxy, dull and rich skin feeling. Depending on the product, target group and / or product concept, this property is not always wanted.
Wünschenswert ist es daher Emulsionszubereitung ohne Fettalkohole zur Verfügung zu stellen, die aber dennoch möglichst breit variierbar und vor allem stabile Emulsionen darstellen. It is therefore desirable to provide emulsion preparation without fatty alcohols, which, however, nevertheless represent the widest possible range of variations and above all stable emulsions.
Weiterhin müssen kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen einigen ästhetischen Gesichtspunkten genügen um eine ausreichende Verbraucherakzeptanz zu erlangen. Furthermore, cosmetic or dermatological preparations must meet some aesthetic criteria in order to obtain sufficient consumer acceptance.
Dem Fachmann sind Emulgatoren aus dem Lebensmittelbereich bekannt wie Glyceryl Stearate Citrat (Imwitor®) oder Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat. The person skilled in the art emulsifiers from the food industry are known as glyceryl stearate citrate (Imwitor®) or polyglyceryl-10-stearate.
Auf der Suche nach geeigneten Emulgatoren, die den gewünschten Anforderungen der Kosmetik oder Dermatologie entsprechen, scheinen diese Emulgatoren sich aber However, in search of suitable emulsifiers which meet the desired requirements of cosmetics or dermatology, these emulsifiers appear to be
auszuschließen. Glyceryl Stearate Citrat muss in kosmetischen Zubereitungen in einer solch hohen Menge oder in Kombination mit Co-Emulgatoren eingesetzt werden um stabile Emulsionen zu erhalten, so dass der Wunsch nach verringertem Emulgatorgehalt mit Glyceryl Stearate Citrat nicht zu erfüllen ist. excluded. Glyceryl stearate citrate must be used in cosmetic preparations in such a high amount or in combination with co-emulsifiers to obtain stable emulsions, so that the desire for reduced emulsifier content with glyceryl stearate citrate is not met.
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat (PG-10-Stearat, CAS-Nr.: 79777-30-3) ist ein hydrophiler Emulgator und weist einen HLB von 12 auf. Polyglyceryl-10-stearate (PG-10 stearate, CAS No .: 79777-30-3) is a hydrophilic emulsifier and has an HLB of 12.
Im Handel sind Polyglyceryl-10-Stearate als Mischungen beispielsweise erhältlich als Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1 -S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) oder Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.). Polyglyceryl-10 stearates are commercially available as blends, for example, as Polyaldo 10-1-S (Lonza), Nikkol Decaglyn 1 -S (Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.) or Salacos PGMSV (The Nisshin OilliO Group, Ltd.).
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat ist aus der Eiscremeherstellung bekannt und weist eine braune Farbe auf. Auch aufgrund dieses ästhetisch problematischen Umstandes schien sich die Anwendung in kosmetischen Emulsionen von selbst zu verbieten. Polyglyceryl-10-stearate is known from ice cream manufacture and has a brown color. Also due to this aesthetically problematic circumstance, the application in cosmetic emulsions seemed to ban itself.
Käuflich erwerbar ist Heliogel®, welches neben Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil auch Polyglyceryl- 10-Stearate umfasst. Heliogel®, which in addition to Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutenes, Phospholipids, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil also contains polyglyceryl-10 stearates, is available for purchase.
In kosmetischen Zubereitungen ist PG-10-Stearat lediglich als Bestandteil eines In cosmetic preparations, PG-10 stearate is merely part of a
Aftershavegels genannt. In dieser Zubereitung sind 6 Gew.% PG-10-Stearat neben weiteren Emulgatoren wie Lecithin und PEG 150 distearat beschrieben (WO 2003082182). Called aftershave glands. In this preparation, 6 wt.% PG-10 stearate are described in addition to other emulsifiers such as lecithin and PEG 150 distearate (WO 2003082182).
JP 2005162664 offenbart PG-10-stearat in Haarfärbezubereitung umfassend Peroxide. Eine kosmetische topische Applikation schließt sich daher aus. JP 2005162664 discloses PG-10 stearate in hair dye preparation comprising peroxides. A cosmetic topical application therefore excludes.
US 5925615 offenbart PG-10-stearat in Shampooformulierungen umfassend US 5925615 discloses PG-10 stearate in shampoo formulations comprising
Polyethylenglykole und Parabene. Polyethylene glycols and parabens.
DE 19547679 A1 beschreibt eine Haarpflegeemulsionen mit PG-10-stearat und DE 19547679 A1 describes a hair care emulsions with PG-10-stearate and
Konservierungsmitteln. Preservatives.
DE 19724587 A1 beschreibt eine Haarspülung mit PG-10-stearat sowie Polyethylenglykole und Parabene. DE 19724587 A1 describes a hair rinse with PG-10-stearate and also polyethylene glycols and parabens.
WO 0027197 A1 offenbart Zubereitungen umfassend neben PG-10-stearat ein oder mehrere UV Filter, Lecithine, Polyethylenglykole und Parabene. WO 0027197 A1 discloses preparations comprising besides PG-10-stearate one or more UV filters, lecithins, polyethylene glycols and parabens.
DE 102008028821 A1 und DE 102008028822 A1 offenbaren Stiftzubereitungen mit PG-10- stearat. DE 102008028821 A1 and DE 102008028822 A1 disclose stick preparations with PG-10 stearate.
DE 10213955 A1 offenbart PG-10-stearat in einer After Shave Lotion, wobei der Gehalt an PG-10-stearat 6% und mehr beträgt. US 20060018853 beschreibt peel-off Zubereitung mit PG-10-stearat mit DE 10213955 A1 discloses PG-10 stearate in an aftershave lotion wherein the content of PG-10 stearate is 6% or more. US 20060018853 describes peel-off preparation with PG-10-stearate with
Decaglyceryltriisostearat und Lecithin. Decaglyceryl triisostearate and lecithin.
Überraschenderweise zeigte sich, dass sich Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat in kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen als Emulgator einsetzen lässt, ohne die Nachteile der färbenden Wirkung und der Instabilität zu zeigen. It has surprisingly been found that polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be used as an emulsifier in cosmetic or dermatological preparations without showing the disadvantages of the coloring effect and the instability.
Des Weiteren zeigte sich überraschenderweise, dass Zubereitungen mit Polyglyceryl-10- Stearat ohne Fettalkohole formulierbar sind und eine ausreichende Stabilität aufweisen ohne die oben genannten Probleme der Fettalkohole zu zeigen. Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that formulations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate can be formulated without fatty alcohols and have sufficient stability without exhibiting the abovementioned problems of the fatty alcohols.
Die Erfindung ist eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Emulsionszubereitung umfassend Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, bevorzugt weniger als 6 Gew.%, insbesondere im Bereich von 0, 1 bis 2,8 Gew.%, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, und umfassend keine Fettalkohole, insbesondere keine der Kettenlänge zwischen C12-20 und ganz besonders bevorzugt C16-18. The invention is a cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparation comprising polyglyceryl-10-stearate, preferably less than 6% by weight, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, and comprising no fatty alcohols, in particular none of the chain length between C12-20 and most preferably C16-18.
O/W-Emulsionszubereitungen 1 und 3 bestehend aus O / W emulsion preparations 1 and 3 consisting of
1 3 1 3
Panthenol 1 ,5 0 Panthenol 1, 5 0
Propylenglykol — 10 Propylene Glycol - 10
Benzethoniumchlorid 1 ,0 0,25 Benzethonium chloride 1, 0 0.25
Lauroylethylarginat 1 ,0 1 ,5 Lauroylethylarginate 1, 0 1, 5
medizinisches Weissöl 0 6 medical white oil 0 6
Isopropylpalmitat 1 0 Isopropyl palmitate 1 0
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid 0 3 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 0 3
Cetylalkohol 0 3 Cetyl alcohol 0 3
lineares Silikonöl 0 3 linear silicone oil 0 3
cyclisches Silikonöl 0 3 cyclic silicone oil 0 3
Sheabutter 0 0,5 Shea butter 0 0.5
Dicaprylylcarbonat 2 0 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2 0
Glyceryl stearat 0 1 ,2 Glyceryl stearate 0 1, 2
Tapiocastärke 1 0 Tapioca starch 1 0
Glycerin 5 10 Glycerol 5 10
Zitronensäure 0,0050 0 Citric acid 0.0050 0
Natronlauge 45% 0,35 0,01 Sodium hydroxide 45% 0.35 0.01
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat 0,7 1 ,8 Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 0.7 1, 8
Polyacrylsäure, Na-Salz 0,5 0,02 (Carbopol 981 ) Polyacrylic acid, Na salt 0.5 0.02 (Carbopol 981)
Trinatrium EDTA 0 1 Trisodium EDTA 0 1
Parfüm 0, 10 0,35 Perfume 0, 10 0.35
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 sowie O/W-Emulsionszubereitungen 46 und 48 bestehend aus Water ad 100 ad 100 and O / W emulsion formulations 46 and 48 consisting of
sind erfindungsgemäß ausgenommen, wobei die Zahlenwerte Gewichtsanteile bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitungen darstellen. are excluded according to the invention, wherein the numerical values represent parts by weight based on the total mass of the preparations.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen basieren vorteilhaft auf einer Emulsion, bevorzugt einer O/W-Emulsion, oder Hydrodispersion. Die so hergestellten Zubereitungen, bevorzugt Emulsionen, weisen eine niedrigen Emulgatorgehalt von weniger als 6% auf und erfüllen somit den Wunsch nach gut verträglichen, milden Produkten, ohne das die Stabilität beeinträchtigt wird. Weniger als 6 Gew.% bzw. weniger als 3 Gew.% PG-10-Stearat bedeutet nicht 0 Gew.%. Bevorzugt beträgt der Mindestanteil an PG-10-Stearat 0, 1 Gew.%. The preparations according to the invention are advantageously based on an emulsion, preferably an O / W emulsion, or hydrodispersion. The preparations thus prepared, preferably emulsions, have a low emulsifier content of less than 6% and thus satisfy the desire for well-tolerated, mild products, without compromising stability is impaired. Less than 6% by weight or less than 3% by weight of PG-10 stearate does not mean 0% by weight. The minimum proportion of PG-10 stearate is preferably 0.1% by weight.
Überraschenderweise sind die mit weniger als 6 Gew.% Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat Surprisingly, those with less than 6 wt.% Polyglyceryl-10-stearate
hergestellten Zubereitungen stabil für einen Zeitraum von mindestens 3 Jahre bei prepared preparations stable for a period of at least 3 years
Raumtemperatur und mindestens 6 Monate bei 40°C Lagerung. Room temperature and at least 6 months at 40 ° C storage.
Des Weiteren zeigte sich überraschend, dass Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat, auch als einziger Emulgator eingesetzt, zu stabilen Emulsionen führt. Ein Verzicht auf weitere zusätzliche Emulgatoren ist damit möglich und kommt so dem Wunsch nach verringerten Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that polyglyceryl-10-stearate, also used as the only emulsifier, leads to stable emulsions. A waiver of additional emulsifiers is thus possible and comes so the desire for reduced
Emulgatorgehalten nach. Emulsifier contents after.
Fettalkoholfrei bedeutet, dass der Anteil an Fettalkoholen, insbesondere C12-20, weniger als 1 %, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, besonders bevorzugt unter 0,25% und ganz besonders unter 0, 1 % beträgt. Fatty alcohol-free means that the proportion of fatty alcohols, in particular C12-20, less than 1%, based on the total mass of the preparation, more preferably below 0.25%, and especially below 0, 1%.
Es zeigt sich erstaunlicherweise, dass allein durch die erfindungsgemäße Wahl des PG-10 Stearat Emulgators in den Zubereitungen und Verzicht auf Fettalkohole eine breitere It is surprisingly found that solely by the inventive choice of PG-10 stearate emulsifier in the preparations and waiving fatty alcohols a broader
Variabilität hinsichtlich des einzustellenden Hautgefühls der Zubereitung erreicht werden kann. Variability can be achieved in terms of the adjusted skin feel of the preparation.
Es konnte im Rahmen von sensorischen Bewertungen von Variationen mit unterschiedlichen PG-10 Stearat Gehalten gezeigt werden, dass eine breite sensorische Vielfalt erreichbar ist (siehe Abbildung 2 und nachfolgende Tabelle). It has been shown in sensory evaluations of variations with different PG-10 stearate contents that a broad sensory diversity can be achieved (see Figure 2 and the following table).
Anzahl Probanden = 9 Number of subjects = 9
Testprodukt Bezeichnung C D Test product Designation C D
Formstabilität 6,5 7, 1 Dimensional stability 6.5 7, 1
Gedecktheit 5, 1 7,0 Coveredness 5, 1 7,0
Festigkeit 1 ,7 3,9 Strength 1, 7 3.9
Faden ziehend 0,5 1 ,7 Thread pulling 0.5 1, 7
Zügigkeit 0,7 2,4 Toughness 0.7 2.4
Verteilbarkeit 8,4 5,8 Spreadability 8.4 5.8
Gehalt 5 Kreise 2, 1 4,9 Salary 5 circles 2, 1 4.9
Feuchtigkeit 5 Kreise 7,5 4,4 Moisture 5 circles 7.5 4.4
Glitschigkeit 5 Kreise 3, 1 1 ,9 Slipperiness 5 circles 3, 1 1, 9
Ölig 20 Kreise 1 ,8 4,0 Oily 20 circles 1, 8 4.0
Wachsig 20 Kreise 0,6 2,8 Waxy 20 circles 0.6 2.8
Fettig 20 Kreise 0,5 3,9 Greasy 20 circles 0.5 3.9
Feuchtigkeit 20 Kreise 4,9 2, 1 Moisture 20 circles 4.9 2, 1
Weißein 0, 1 1 ,3 Die Fettalkohole sind es häufig, die für die Hautgefühleigenschaft einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitung sich verantwortlich zeigen. White 0, 1 1, 3 It is often fatty alcohols that are responsible for the skin feel of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.
Weiterhin zeigte sich überraschenderweise, dass PG-10-Stearat bei der Emulsionsbildung sowohl in die Wasser- als auch in die Fettphase gegeben werden kann. In beiden Fällen wird das gleiche Produkt erhalten. Die Abweichungen in der Konsistenz sind nicht signifikant und für einen Konsumenten nicht relevant. Furthermore, it was surprisingly found that PG-10 stearate can be added to the emulsion formation both in the water and in the fat phase. In both cases, the same product is obtained. The differences in consistency are not significant and not relevant to a consumer.
Abbildung 1 zeigt diese Konsistenzuntersuchungen. Die Konsistenz wurde mit einem Konsistenzbestimmungsgerät nach Fligge (gemäß DE 29 09 087) ermittelt. Figure 1 shows these consistency studies. The consistency was determined using a consistency determination device according to Fligge (according to DE 29 09 087).
Auf der X-Achse ist zum Einen der Wert der Konsistenz der zu vergleichenden Formeln A und B nach einem Tag (links) und nach 30 Tagen (rechts) aufgetragen. Die Formel A unterscheidet sich von der Formel B darin, dass der Emulgator PG-10-Stearate im Fall A in die Wasserphase und im Fall B in die Fettphase gegeben wurde. Alle weiteren Schritte waren für beide Formulierungen identisch. On the X-axis, on the one hand, the value of the consistency of the formulas A and B to be compared is plotted after one day (left) and after 30 days (right). Formula A differs from formula B in that the PG-10 Stearate emulsifier was added to the water phase in case A and to the fat phase in case B. All further steps were identical for both formulations.
Auf der y- Achse ist der Konsistenzwert aufgetragen. Man erkennt, dass beide Formeln nach 1 Tag sogar numerisch die gleiche Konsistenz haben, also identisch sind bezüglich der Konsistenz. Nach 30 Tagen gibt es zwar einen numerischen Unterschied, der jedoch vom Konsumenten nicht nachvollziehbar ist. The consistency value is plotted on the y axis. It can be seen that both formulas even have the same consistency numerically after one day, ie they are identical in terms of consistency. After 30 days there is a numerical difference, but the consumer can not understand it.
Die Untersuchungen belegen die außergewöhnlichen Eigenschaften von PG-10-Stearat. Da es nicht relevant ist, in welche Phase man den Emulgator gibt, hat man in der The studies confirm the extraordinary properties of PG-10 stearate. Since it is not relevant in which phase you give the emulsifier, you have in the
Phasenaufteilung in der Produktion größere Flexibilität. Phase distribution in production greater flexibility.
Ein Verfahren zur Herstellung kosmetischer oder dermatologischer Emulsionszubereitungen mit Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat als Emulgator, bevorzugt einzigen Emulgator, ermöglicht die Zugabe sowohl in die Wasser- und/oder in die Ölphase der Emulsion. A process for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations with polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier, preferably single emulsifier, allows the addition both in the water and / or in the oil phase of the emulsion.
PG-10-sterat haltige Zubereitungen lassen sich somit einfacher herstellen und geben dem Fachmann eine hervorragende Flexibilität bezüglich Viskosität, Sensorik, Applikationsform und Toleranz gegenüber verschiedenster Inhaltsstoffe und der Produktion. PG-10-containing preparations can thus be produced more easily and give the person skilled an outstanding flexibility with regard to viscosity, sensor technology, application form and tolerance to a wide variety of ingredients and production.
Den Einsatz von PG-10-Stearat in Kosmetika auf möglichst geringe Anteile zu begrenzen mag für einen Kosmetikfachmann aufgrund der braunen Farbe des PG-10-Stearats nahe gelegen haben, jedoch müsste er aufgrund der geringen Anteile dann auch von einer verminderten emulgierenden Wirkung ausgehen. Dies hat sich bei einer Verwendung von weniger als 6 Gew.% PG-10-Stearat, insbesondere im Bereich von 0, 1 bis 2,8 Gew.%, bezogen auf die Gesamtmenge der Zubereitung, überraschenderweise aber nicht bewahrheitet. Limiting the use of PG-10 stearate in cosmetics to the lowest possible levels may have been obvious to a cosmetic professional due to the brown color of the PG-10 stearate, but due to the low levels it would then have to emanate from a reduced emulsifying effect. However, surprisingly, this did not materialize when using less than 6% by weight PG-10 stearate, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, based on the total amount of the preparation.
In mehreren Langzeitstabilitätsuntersuchungen zeigten die PG-10-Stearat haltigen In several long-term stability studies showed the PG-10 stearate containing
Zubereitungen keine Instabilitäten, Phasentrennung, Koaleszenz, Ostwald-Reifung oder Veränderung der Tröpfchengröße mit der Zeit oder Aufrahmung. Die Formulierungen, wie sie in den Beispielen offenbart sind, waren mindestens 6 Monate bei Raumtemperatur sowie bei 40°C optisch stabil. Das heißt es wurde keine Phasentrennung oder Phasenabscheidung beobachtet. Preparations no instabilities, phase separation, coalescence, Ostwald ripening or Change in droplet size with time or creaming. The formulations as disclosed in the examples were optically stable for at least 6 months at room temperature and at 40 ° C. That is, no phase separation or phase separation was observed.
Den erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können zusätzliche Emulgatoren zugesetzt werden. Dies ist aber erfindungsgemäß nicht in allen Fällen erforderlich oder zwingend. Additional emulsifiers may be added to the preparations according to the invention. However, this is not required or mandatory in all cases according to the invention.
Wenn zusätzliche Emulgatoren hinzugefügt werden, sind diese bevorzugt zu wählen aus der Gruppe der Emulgatoren, die bei 25°C fest, pastös oder flüssig und nicht ethoxiliert sind. Besonders bevorzugte zusätzliche Emulgatoren sind zu wählen aus der Gruppe 1 ,2- Propandiolfettsäureester, Acetoglyceride, acetylierte Mono-/Diglyceride, Alkali- bzw. If additional emulsifiers are added, these are preferably to be selected from the group of emulsifiers which are solid, pasty or liquid at 25 ° C and not ethoxylated. Particularly preferred additional emulsifiers are to be selected from the group 1, 2 Propandiolfettsäureester, acetoglycerides, acetylated mono- / diglycerides, alkali or
Ammonium-Seifen, Ammoniumphosphatide, Sorbitanmonoisostearat, C10-C22 Fettsäuren, Cetearyl Sulfat, Cetearylglucoside, Cetylphosphat, Cetylstearylalkohol in Kombination mit Natrium Cetylstearylsulfat, Citroglyceridester, Citronensäuremonoglyceride, Ammonium soaps, ammonium phosphatides, sorbitan monoisostearate, C10-C22 fatty acids, cetearyl sulfate, cetearyl glucosides, cetyl phosphate, cetylstearyl alcohol in combination with sodium cetyl stearyl sulphate, citroglyceride esters, citric acid monoglycerides,
Diacetylweinsäuremonoglyceride, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearat (Isolan PDI), Ei- Lecithin, Emulgator YN (Handelsbezeichnung), Essigsäuremonoglyceride, gemischte Propylenglykol-Glycerinester, Glyceryllaurat, Glycerylmyristat, Glyceryloleat in Kombination mit Propylenglycol, Glycerylstearat, Glycerylstearat SE, Glycerylstearatcitrat, Glycol Distearat, Isostearyldiglycerylsuccinat, Isostearylglycerylether, Kaliumcetylphosphat, Diacetyltartaric acid monoglycerides, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan PDI), egg lecithin, emulsifier YN (trade name), acetic acid monoglycerides, mixed propylene glycol glycerol esters, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl oleate in combination with propylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol distearate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate , Isostearylglyceryl ether, potassium cetyl phosphate,
Lactoglyceride, lactylierte Mono-/Diglyceride, Lecithin, Methylglucosesesquistearat, Lactoglycerides, lactylated mono- / diglycerides, lecithin, methyl glucose sesquistearate,
Milchsäuremonoglyceride, Mono- und Diglyceride von Speisefettsäuren verestert mit Essigsäure und Weinsäure, Monoglyceridacetat, Monoglyceridcitrat, Monoglycerid- diacetyltartrat, Monoglyceridlactat, Monoglyceridtartrat, Na-,K- und Ca-Salze der Stearoyl-2- lactylmilchsäure, Na-,K- und Ca-stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactat, Na-,K- und Ca-stearoyl-2- lactyllactat, Na-,K- und Ca-stearoylmilchsäure, Na-Salz der Laurylschwefelsäure, Lactic acid monoglycerides, mono- and diglycerides of fatty acids esterified with acetic acid and tartaric acid, monoglyceride acetate, monoglyceride citrate, monoglyceride diacetyl tartrate, monoglyceride lactate, monoglyceride tartrate, Na, K and Ca salts of stearoyl-2-lactyl lactic acid, Na, K and Ca; stearoyl-2-lactoyl-lactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl-2-lactyllactate, Na, K and Ca stearoyl lactic acid, Na salt of lauryl sulfuric acid,
Natriumcetylphosphat, Natriumcetylstearylsulfat, Natriumdodecylsulfat und/oder Sodium cetyl phosphate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, sodium dodecyl sulfate and / or
Dodecylhydrogensulfat, Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearat (LameformTGl), Polyglycerinester der interesterifizierten Ricinolsäure, Polyglycerinfettsäureester, Polyglycerin-Polycrinoleat, Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearat, Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleat (Admul WOL 1403), Dodecyl hydrogen sulfate, polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (LameformTGl), polyglycerol ester of interesterified ricinoleic acid, polyglycerol fatty acid ester, polyglycerol polycrinoleate, polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate, polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (Admul WOL 1403),
Polyglyceryl-1 Dipolyhydroxystearat (Dehymuls PGPH), Polyglyceryl-2-laurat, Polyglyceryl-2- sesquiisostearat, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether Polyglyceryl-1 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls PGPH), polyglyceryl-2-laurate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether
(Chimexane NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearat (Cremophor GS 32), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearat (Tego Care 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleat, Polyglyceryl-3-methylglycosedistearat, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprat (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010190), Polyglyceryl-4 (Chimexane NL), polyglyceryl-3 distearate (Cremophor GS 32), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care 450), polyglyceryl-3-oleate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglycose distearate, polyglyceryl-4-caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010190), polyglyceryl-4
Diisostearat/Polyhydroxystearat/Sebacate (Isolan GPS), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearat (Isolan Gl 34), Polyoxyethylen-stearinsäureester, Polyoxylstearat-Mono-/Diglycerid, Propylengly- colstearat SE, Propylenglykolfettsäureester, Propylenglykolmono-/di-fettsäureester, Raps- Lecithin, Saccharoglyceride, Saccharoseester von Speisefettsäuren, Soja-Lecithin, Sorbate bsp. Sorbitanmonolaurat (Sorbat 20), Sorbitandicitrat, Sorbitandierucat, Diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate (Isolan GPS), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34), polyoxyethylene stearic acid ester, polyoxylstearate mono- / diglyceride, propylene glycol stearate SE, propylene glycol fatty acid ester, propylene glycol mono- / di-fatty acid ester, rapeseed lecithin, sucrose glycerides , Sucrose esters of fatty acids, soy lecithin, sorbates bsp. Sorbitan monolaurate (sorbate 20), sorbitan di-citrate, sorbitan butucate,
Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitandiisostearat, Sorbitandimaleat, Sorbitandioleat, Sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan adipate, sorbitan dioleate,
Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitanditartrat, Sorbitanmonocitrat, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitan dicinoleate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan monoerucate,
Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitanmonomaleat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan monoricinoleate,
Sorbitanmonostearat (Sorbat 60), Sorbitanmonotartrat, Sorbitansesquicitrat, Sorbitan monostearate (sorbate 60), sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquiterate,
Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquiisostearat, Sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate,
Sorbitansesquimaleat, Sorbitansesquioleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitansesquitartrat, Sorbitantricitrat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, Sorbitantriisostearat, Sorbitan sesquimlate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan squiricinoleate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan triisostearate,
Sorbitanmonooleat, Sorbitantrimaleat, Sorbitantrioleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitantristearat (Sorbat 65), Sorbitantritartrat, Stearinsäure sowie ihrer Salze, Sucroester, Triethylcitrat, Weinsäureglyceride, Weinsäuremonoglyceride und/oder Zuckerfettsäureester, besonders bevorzugt ist Glycerylstearat. Sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan trimaleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan tristearate (sorbate 65), sorbitan tritartrate, stearic acid and its salts, sucrose, triethyl citrate, tartaric acid glycerides, tartaric acid glycerides and / or sugar fatty acid esters, particularly preferred is glyceryl stearate.
Bevorzugt umfassen die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen keinen weiteren zusätzlichen Emulgator ausser PG-10-Stearat. Der Anteil an zusätzlichen Emulgatoren sollte somit bevorzugt unter 0,01 Gew.% liegen, bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung, um als erfindungsgemäß - ohne zusätzlichen Emulgator - zu gelten. The preparations according to the invention preferably comprise no further additional emulsifier except PG-10 stearate. The proportion of additional emulsifiers should therefore preferably be less than 0.01% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation, in order to be considered to be present according to the invention-without additional emulsifier.
Lecithine ist der klassische Name für eine Gruppe chemischer Verbindungen, die so genannten Phosphatidylcholine. Dabei handelt es sich um Phospholipide, die sich aus Fettsäuren, Glycerin, Phosphorsäure und Cholin zusammensetzen. Lecithine sind Lecithins is the classic name for a group of chemical compounds called phosphatidylcholines. These are phospholipids, which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline. Lecithins are
Bestandteile der Zellmembran tierischer und pflanzlicher Lebewesen. Sie sind Begleitstoffe in Fetten und Ölen. Sie ermöglichen das Emulgieren von Fetten und Wasser und sind somit wichtige natürliche Tenside (Emulgatoren) für Nahrungs- und Futtermittel. Lecithine sind in der EU als Lebensmittelzusatzstoff (E 322) für Lebensmittel allgemein zugelassen mit Höchstmengenbeschränkung ausschließlich bei Säuglingsnahrung. In der Medizin und in der Kosmetik werden sie auch als Wirkstoff, in der Diätetik als Nahrungsergänzungsmittel genutzt. Den Lecithinen werden neben ihren strukturbildenden Eigenschaften zahlreiche funktionelle Aufgaben zugeschrieben. Sie sind sowohl am anabolen Lipidstoffwechsel als auch am katabolen Fettstoffwechsel aktiv beteiligt. Components of the cell membrane of animal and plant organisms. They are accompanying substances in fats and oils. They allow the emulsification of fats and water and are therefore important natural surfactants (emulsifiers) for food and feed. Lecithins are widely accepted in the EU as a food additive (E 322) for foodstuffs with a maximum limit on infant formula only. In medicine and cosmetics, they are also used as an active ingredient, in dietetics as a dietary supplement. In addition to their structure-forming properties, lecithins are ascribed numerous functional tasks. They are actively involved in both anabolic lipid metabolism and catabolic lipid metabolism.
Lecithine sind daher erfindungsgemäß auszuschließen. Lecithins are therefore excluded according to the invention.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen umfassen zudem keine Parabene, The preparations according to the invention also contain no parabens,
Formalgehydabspalter, organohalogenische Stoffe, Benzoesäure und deren Salze, Formiate und Teebaumöl sowie vorteilhaft auch kein Benzylalkohol und/oder Phenoxyethanol. Diese Substanzen sind allesamt gängige Konservierungsmittel, weisen jedoch auch Formalgehydabspalter, organohalogens, benzoic acid and its salts, formates and tea tree oil and advantageously also no benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol. These substances are all common preservatives, but they also show
Nachteile auf. So ist DMDM Hydantoin ein Formaldehydabspalter. Formaldehyd ist wie allgemein bekannt eine giftige Substanz und ihr Gebrauch in Kosmetik nicht unumstritten. Benzylalkohol hat einen charakteristischen Geruch, welche in einer Formulierung mit Parfüm maskiert werden muss. Parfuminhaltstoffe sind leider oft auch im Verdacht reizend oder sensibilisierend zu wirken. Deswegen ist es wünschenswert die Parfumkonzentration möglichst gering zu halten. Phenoxyethanol steht immer wieder im Verdacht Typ IV Disadvantages. So, DMDM Hydantoin is a formaldehyde releaser. As is generally known, formaldehyde is a toxic substance and its use in cosmetics is not uncontroversial. Benzyl alcohol has a characteristic odor which must be masked in a formulation with perfume. Unfortunately, perfume ingredients are often suspected of irritating or sensitizing. Therefore it is desirable to keep the perfume concentration as low as possible. Phenoxyethanol is repeatedly suspected Type IV
Kontaktallergien auszulösen und wird somit von Konsumenten zunehmend abgelehnt. Trigger contact allergies and is thus increasingly rejected by consumers.
Organische Halogenide sind vergleichsweise hochreaktive Stoffe und interagieren mit der Zellmembran und werden somit bei den Konsumenten ebenfalls stark abgelehnt. Organic halides are relatively highly reactive substances and interact with the cell membrane and are thus strongly rejected by consumers.
Teebaumöl ist nicht als Arzneimittel zugelassen und wird als Risikosubstanz für das Tea tree oil is not approved as a drug and is considered a risk substance for the
Auftreten von Kontakt-Dermatitiden gewertet. Occurrence of contact dermatitis scored.
Die kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Zubereitungen gemäß der Erfindung können ferner kosmetische Hilfsstoffe und weitere Wirkstoffe enthalten, wie sie üblicherweise in solchen Zubereitungen verwendet werden, z. B. Konservierungsmittel, Konservierungshelfer, Bakterizide, Substanzen zum Verhindern des Schäumens, Farbstoffe und Farbpigmente, Verdickungsmittel, anfeuchtende und/oder feuchthaltende Substanzen, Fette, Öle, Wachse oder andere übliche Bestandteile einer kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Formulierung wie Alkohole, Polyole, Polymere, Schaumstabilisatoren, Elektrolyte, organische Lösungsmittel oder Silikonderivate, Selbstbräuner, Puffer, pH Regulatoren, Pflanzliche The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients, such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, Electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, self-tanning, buffers, pH regulators, herbal
Extrakte, Tenside, Treibgase, Puder, Sebumabsorbierende Substanzen, UV-Filter, Wirkstoffe wie zum Beispiel Anti Age, Anti-Cellulite, Anti Akne, Anti-Rosacea, Anti-Neurodermitis, Antioxidantien, Moisturiser, Chelatbildner, Antitraspirantien, Bleich und Färbemittel etc, sofern der Zusatz die geforderten Eigenschaften hinsichtlich Fettalkoholfreiheit, Extracts, surfactants, propellants, powders, sebum-absorbing substances, UV filters, active ingredients such as anti-age, anti-cellulite, anti-acne, anti-rosacea, anti-eczema, antioxidants, moisturizers, chelating agents, antitraspirants, bleaches and dyes, etc .; if the additive meets the required properties with regard to the absence of fatty alcohols,
mikrobiologischer Stabilität und Hautfreundlichkeit nicht behindert. microbiological stability and skin friendliness not hindered.
Bei der Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen zeigt sich ein weiterer unerwarteter Vorteil bei der Verwendung von Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat. In preparing the formulations of the present invention, another unexpected advantage is seen in the use of polyglyceryl-10-stearate.
Bei der Emulsionsherstellung muss normalerweise eine Wasser- und eine Fettphase aufgeheizt werden, gemischt und diese Mischung anschließend wieder gekühlt werden. Das bedeutet eine mindestens zweimalige Zugabe von Wärmeenergie. Energetisch ist das ungünstig und ebenso problematisch bei ggf. thermisch labilen Wirkstoffen. In emulsion production, usually one water and one fat phase must be heated, mixed and then re-cooled. This means at least two times the addition of heat energy. Energetically, this is unfavorable and just as problematic in possibly thermally labile active ingredients.
Überraschenderweise ist diese zweimalige Erwärmung durch die Verwendung von Surprisingly, this two-fold warming is through the use of
Polyglyceryl-10-Stearat als Emulgator nicht notwendig. Emulsionszubereitungen mit PG-10-Stearat lassen sich im sogenannten cold-cold Verfahren herstellen. Normalerweise schmilzt man die Fettphase auf 80-100°C und heizt parallel die Wasserphase auf 80-100°C auf. Diese beiden heißen Phasen gibt man zusammen und rührt. Anschließend wird homogenisiert. In der Produktion muss dafür häufig gekühlt werden. Polyglyceryl-10-stearate as emulsifier not necessary. Emulsion preparations with PG-10 stearate can be prepared in the cold-cold process. Normally, the fat phase is melted to 80-100 ° C and heats the water phase parallel to 80-100 ° C on. These two hot phases are combined and stirred. Subsequently, it is homogenized. In production, this often has to be cooled.
Dieses Verfahren nennt man hot/hot-Verfahren. Cold/cold-Verfahren heißt also analog, man hat eine Wasserphase bei Raumtemperatur und eine Fettphase bei Raumtemperatur, welche man zusammen gibt und homogenisiert, was energetisch ein großer Vorteil ist. This process is called hot / hot process. Cold / cold method is thus analogous, you have a water phase at room temperature and a fat phase at room temperature, which gives together and homogenized, which is energetically a big advantage.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen sind daher für die Einarbeitung thermisch labiler Wirkstoffe, wie beispielsweise natürlichen Ölen, Wirkstoffe, Vitaminen, Parfüm oder auch einzelnen Parfuminhaltsstoffen bevorzugt. The preparations according to the invention are therefore preferred for the incorporation of thermally labile active substances, such as natural oils, active substances, vitamins, perfume or individual perfume ingredients.
Als thermisch labil bezeichnet man Substanzen, die beim Erwärmen über 50°C sich farblich, geruchlich oder in physikalischen Parametern verändern oder gar sich ganz oder teilweise abbauen. Thermally labile substances are those which, when heated above 50 ° C., change in color, smell or in physical parameters or even degrade completely or partially.
Nachfolgende Beispiele illustrieren die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen. Die The following examples illustrate the preparations according to the invention. The
angegebenen Anteile sind Gewichtsanteile, jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtmasse der Zubereitung. given proportions are by weight, in each case based on the total mass of the preparation.
Beispiele Examples
Silikon in Wasser-Emulsion Silicone in water emulsion
1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5
Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG16/16 1 ,0 2,0 8,0 5,0 Bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 1, 0 2.0 8.0 5.0
Dimethicone, Caprylic/Caprictriglycerid Dimethicone, Caprylic / Caprictriglyceride
Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, 3,0 Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicone, 3.0
Cyclomethicone Cyclomethicone
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat 2,0 4,0 4,0 3,0 5,0 cyclisches Silikonöl (Cyclomethicon) 12,5 15 25,0 10,0 7,5 lineares Silikonöl (Dimethicon) 5,0 15,0 5,0 12,0 15,0 Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 2.0 4.0 4.0 3.0 5.0 cyclic silicone oil (cyclomethicone) 12.5 15 25.0 10.0 7.5 linear silicone oil (dimethicone) 5.0 15.0 5, 0 12.0 15.0
Octyldodecanol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 3,0 0,25Octyldodecanol 0.5 1, 0.75 3.0 0.25
Glycerin 5,0 7,5 10,0 3,0 1 ,0 Glycerin 5.0 7.5 10.0 3.0 1, 0
Carbomer 0,05 0, 1 0,05 0, 1 0,1 Carbomer 0.05 0, 1 0.05 0, 1 0.1
Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0,1 Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0,1
Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,
Stearyldimethicon 0,5 — 0,7 — — Methylisothiazolinone — 0,10 — 0,06 —Stearyl dimethicone 0.5 - 0.7 - - Methylisothiazolinone - 0.10 - 0.06 -
Piroctonolamin — — 0,25 0,15 —Piroctonolamine - - 0.25 0.15 -
Lauroylethylarginat — — — 0,15 1,75Lauroylethylarginate - - - 0.15 1.75
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
O/W-Emulsion O / W emulsion
6 7 8 9 10 6 7 8 9 10
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat 1,0 1,5 1,75 5,0 6,25Polyglyceryl-10 stearate 1.0 1.5 1.75 5.0 6.25
Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamat 5,0 3,0 2,0 2,0 5,0Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.0 3.0 2.0 2.0 5.0
Ethylhexylglycerin 1 — 0,5 1 —Ethylhexylglycerol 1 - 0.5 l -
Aluminiumchlorhydrat — 1 0,02 1 —Aluminum Chlorohydrate - 1 0.02 1 -
Ethanol — — 3,0 1 —Ethanol - - 3.0 1 -
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurat/VP 0,5 0,75 0,5 2,0 0,25 Copolymer Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP 0.5 0.75 0.5 2.0 0.25 Copolymer
Carbomer 0,3 0,1 0,2 0,05 0,1 Carbomer 0.3 0.1 0.2 0.05 0.1
Caprylic/Capric Triglycerid — — 1,0 — 0,5Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride - - 1.0 - 0.5
Glycerystearat 0,5 — 2,0 — 1,0Glycerystearate 0.5-2.0-1.0
Myristylmyristat — 1,5 1,0 2,5 —Myristyl myristate - 1.5 1.0 2.5 -
Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s,Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s,
Meeressalz — — 0,01 0,5 —Sea salt - - 0,01 0,5 -
Benzethoniumchlorid 2,0 0,35 0,15 0,05Benzethonium chloride 2.0 0.35 0.15 0.05
Dehydracetsäure — 0,3 — — —Dehydroacetic acid - 0.3 - - -
Ethylhexylglycerin — 0,5 — — —Ethylhexylglycerol - 0.5 - - -
Glycerin 5 10 7,5 15 7,5Glycerol 5 10 7.5 15 7.5
Tocopherolacetat 0,5 0,25 0,5 0,1 —Tocopherol acetate 0.5 0.25 0.5 0.1 -
Titandioxid — 2,5 1,2 0,15 —Titanium dioxide - 2.5 1.2 0.15 -
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
O/W-Emulsion O / W emulsion
11 12 13 14 15 11 12 13 14 15
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat 1 1,0 2,5 2 1,5 Cetearylglucosid — 8 — — —Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate 1 1.0 2.5 2 1.5 Cetearyl glucoside - 8 - - -
Cyclomethicon 12,5 15 28,0 25,0 17,5Cyclomethicone 12.5 15 28.0 25.0 17.5
Glycerylstearat — 1 ,0 0,5 0,25 0,5Glyceryl stearate - 1, 0 0.5 0.25 0.5
Dimethicon 5,0 13,0 5,0 12,0 15,0Dimethicone 5.0 13.0 5.0 12.0 15.0
Glycerin 5 10 15 3 7,5Glycerin 5 10 15 3 7.5
Carbomer 0,05 0, 1 0,05 0, 1 0,3Carbomer 0.05 0, 1 0.05 0, 1 0.3
Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0,2 - - 0,5 - Crosspolymer Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylates 0.2 - 0.5 Crosspolymer
Methylisothiazolinone 0,06 0,10 0,08 — 0,04 Methylisothiazolinone 0.06 0.10 0.08-0.04
Panthenol 0,5 1 ,0 0,75 0,25 0, 1Panthenol 0,5 1, 0 0,75 0,25 0, 1
Dehydracetsäure — — — 0,5 —Dehydroacetic acid - - - 0.5 -
Piroctone Olamine — — — 0, 1 —Piroctone Olamine - - - 0, 1 -
Parfüm q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, q,s, modifizierte Stärke 0,5 — — 0, 15 —Perfume q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, q, s, modified starch 0,5 - - 0, 15 -
Wasser ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE102011077031.3 | 2011-06-07 | ||
| DE201110077031 DE102011077031A1 (en) | 2011-06-07 | 2011-06-07 | Fatty alcohol-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2012168216A2 true WO2012168216A2 (en) | 2012-12-13 |
| WO2012168216A3 WO2012168216A3 (en) | 2014-08-07 |
Family
ID=46208083
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2012/060559 Ceased WO2012168216A2 (en) | 2011-06-07 | 2012-06-05 | Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion preparations which are free from fatty alcohols |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| DE (1) | DE102011077031A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2012168216A2 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE102017204791A1 (en) * | 2017-03-22 | 2018-09-27 | Beiersdorf Ag | Sunscreen with polyglyceryl-10 stearate and citronellol |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE102014220449A1 (en) | 2014-10-09 | 2016-04-14 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic spray |
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| FR2787326B1 (en) * | 1998-12-17 | 2001-01-26 | Oreal | NANOEMULSION BASED ON FATTY ESTERS OF GLYCEROL, AND ITS USES IN THE COSMETIC, DERMATOLOGICAL AND / OR OPHTHALMOLOGICAL FIELDS |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| WO2012168216A3 (en) | 2014-08-07 |
| DE102011077031A1 (en) | 2012-12-13 |
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