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WO2012001661A1 - Dispositif de sécurité pour cordes - Google Patents

Dispositif de sécurité pour cordes Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2012001661A1
WO2012001661A1 PCT/IB2011/052910 IB2011052910W WO2012001661A1 WO 2012001661 A1 WO2012001661 A1 WO 2012001661A1 IB 2011052910 W IB2011052910 W IB 2011052910W WO 2012001661 A1 WO2012001661 A1 WO 2012001661A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
deflecting means
ropes
rope
zones
safety device
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/IB2011/052910
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Luca Lena
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Politecnico di Milano
Original Assignee
Politecnico di Milano
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Politecnico di Milano filed Critical Politecnico di Milano
Priority to EP11744073.5A priority Critical patent/EP2498876B1/fr
Publication of WO2012001661A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012001661A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62—LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62B—DEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/06—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
    • A62B1/14—Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices with brakes sliding on the rope
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63—SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63B—APPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00—Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02—Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a safety device for ropes, which is usable in multiple applicational fields, such as the sporting, industrial sector or in the rescue field.
  • the safety device is particularly suitable for being used for climbing, mountaineering, caving and other activities in which the use of ropes is required for supporting and/or moving and securing a load, for example an individual.
  • the safety device acts as a braking device, belaying device and self-locking device both in emergencies and when requested. From DE244762C a locking device for ropes is known that is equipped with a lever that acts as an element for braking the rope .
  • a self-locking safety device is known that is disclosed in FR2875707A1, which is used in the field of climbing, mountaineering or caving, which is coupled with a rope to secure a climber during a climb, for example on a rock face.
  • the device is connectable to the harness of a user, such as a so-called belayer, which has the function of assisting the climber during the ascent along the aforesaid rock face.
  • the device acts in such a manner as to stop sharply the playing out of the rope with respect to the device, stopping the fall of the climber downwards and placing the climber in safety.
  • the self-locking safety device comprises two plates shaped as a rectangular triangle, fixed together by spacer bushes or pins, positioned near the tops of the plates.
  • the two plates are mutually parallel and spaced apart from one another by spacing pins, such as to define a gap that is suitable for being traversed by a rope.
  • the two plates define three distinct sides of the device, i.e. a first shorter side, a second side, which is substantially orthogonal to the first side, and a third side that is tilted with respect to the first side and to the second side and connects the latter.
  • the spacer pins in addition to connecting the two plates in a spaced manner, are arranged in such a manner as to impose a winding path on the rope. The winding path causes the generation of surface friction between the rope and pins.
  • the spacer pins comprise in particular a first pin, arranged near a first summit that connects the second side with the third side, a second pin, arranged near a second summit that connects the second side with the first side, and a third pin, arranged near a third summit that connects the first side with the third side of the device.
  • each plate there is obtained a respective slot opening that extends substantially parallel to the second side from a zone that is near the first side to approximately near a central zone of the third side.
  • the two slot openings are shaped to couple with a snap-hook intended for being connected to the harness of the user, in particular of the belayer .
  • the self -locking device comprises a bar that is suitable for going to rest from the exterior on the second side of the plates, such as to be arranged orthogonally with respect to the planes defined by the plates.
  • the bar contributes to defining the aforesaid said winding path and has the function of generating friction on the rope, maintaining a rope loop outside the device.
  • the self -locking device further comprises a lever that is movable with respect to the two plates.
  • the lever is partially housed between the two plates and partially projects from the third side to the outside of the device.
  • the lever and the bar are mutually connected with two elastic bands, to prevent them being separated from the device. Nevertheless, such a connection configuration is not very reliable and is not very secure, and is further very inconvenient for the user as the various parts of the device are not kept together securely. There is also a great risk that the bar and/or the lever will separate from the device and compromise the operation thereof, jeopardising the safety of the climber and/or of the belayer, in particular when it is no longer possible to recover the various parts of the device, for example, slipping away at a great height from the ground .
  • the lever can be operated to release the rope from the device after the rope has locked, for example, after the climber has started to fall, or after a tug on the rope by the climber.
  • the lever comprises a locking end, placed further inside the device, on which a hole is obtained, the axis of which traverses the two slot openings of the plates. This hole has a diameter that is such as to be able to receive internally a snap-hook to connect to the harness of the belayer.
  • the locking end is shaped for cooperating with the second pin and with the third pin in order to lock the rope in the event of a sudden fall of the climber.
  • the locking portion which in turn undergoes a reaction force from the snap-hook connected to the harness of the belayer, is moved towards a zone interposed between the second pin and the third pin, pressing the rope against the latter and increasing the friction that is generated between the rope and the pins. In this manner, the sliding of the rope is prevented, which is thus locked on the device.
  • the lever comprises a handle portion that projects outside the gap defined by the two plates.
  • the handle portion projects noticeably outside the device in such a way as to provide the user with a lever arm that makes it easier for the user to release the rope.
  • the device is provided with a pair of fulcrum protrusions, provided on the internal faces of the two plates and facing one another, on which the lever rests when it is operated to release the rope. The lever, by rotating around the aforesaid fulcrum protrusions, makes the locking portion move away from the second pin and from the third pin, releasing the rope, which in this way can resume sliding through the device.
  • a stake is provided that projects orthogonally with respect to a longitudinal axis of the lever and parallel to the axes of the spacer pins.
  • the stake is placed at a relatively great distance from the third pin, and, being provided on the lever, is movable with respect to the plates.
  • the stake can be partially wound by the rope, imposing on the latter, a further variation of the route.
  • the device can be used by the belayer to check the locking action that the lever causes by interacting with the second pin and the third pin, as will be seen below.
  • a rope is inserted therein that enters and exits the gap through the third side.
  • a first rope portions defined that is interposed between the first pin and the bar, a second rope portion that extends from the bar to the locking end of the lever and is interposed between the latter and the second pin, and a third rope portion that extends from the locking end to the outside of the device, exiting through the third side and which is interposed between the locking end and the third pin.
  • the rope can further comprise a fourth portion that extends as far as the stake, when the user decides to wind partially with the rope around the latter.
  • the fourth portion given the distance of the stake from the third pin, has a length that is noticeably greater than the first portion and/or the second and/or the third portion.
  • the first pin and the bar respectively define a first deviator and a second deviator that respectively give the rope a first path curve and a second path curve.
  • the second pin and the third together define a third deviator that imposes on the rope respectively a third path curve.
  • the belayer progressively supplies rope to the climber to enable the climber to move upwards.
  • the belayer gripping the device, pulls the rope to make the rope slide in relation to the device.
  • the belayer grasps the upper rope portion that directly connects the device to the climber.
  • the rope is grasped in a zone upstream of the device, i.e. near the first pin, and is pulled horizontally in such a manner as to modify the path by reducing the windiness thereof and thus reducing the friction that opposes the advancing of the rope with respect to the device.
  • the climber fixes along the ascent path and on the rock face safety anchoring elements, with which the rope is coupled.
  • the rope is locked cleanly and very sharply so as to stop the fall of the climber in a manner that is anything but comfortable and which on the contrary subjects the climber to rapid deceleration that is very harmful to the human body.
  • the belayer can grasp the lower rope portion, wind the lower rope portion around the stake and exert on the rope portion certain downward traction, in such a way that the action of the rope on the stake is such as to rotate the lever by a minimum quantity that is sufficient to avoid sharp locking over the rope against the second pin and the third pin, in such a manner as to exert a braking action in order to stop the rope gradually.
  • a further drawback of the known device disclosed above is that it is structurally complex and therefore costly to make.
  • a still further drawback of the known device is that it is rather heavy because of the structural complexity thereof .
  • the device is thus inconvenient to carry, also because of the great bulkiness thereof, which is aggravated by the presence of the protruding lever.
  • the lever by protruding in the manner disclosed above, in extreme situations wherein a possible fall of the climber or a sudden pull by the latter on the rope and thus on the device can transform the lever into a blunt instrument that is dangerous for the belayer.
  • One object of the invention is to improve known safety devices for ropes .
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a safety device that is handlable and easy to use even by an inexpert user that is safe and not dangerous for the latter.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a safety device that enables a user to gently stop the fall of a climber extremely easily and reliably but which is also able to stop promptly the fall of the climber automatically if, for example, the user is taken ill or if the latter is unable to act .
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a safety device for ropes that is structurally simplified, compact and thus very reliable and cheap to be used.
  • a safety device as defined in claim 1 is provided. Owing to the invention, it is possible to obtain a device that is able to remedy all the aforementioned drawbacks of the prior art .
  • Figure 1 is a perspective view of the safety device for ropes according to the invention.
  • Figure 2 is an exploded view of the safety device in Figure 1;
  • Figure 3 is a side view of the device according to the invention :
  • Figure 4 is a front view of the device according to the invention.
  • Figure 5 is a further front view of the device in a different configuration from Figure 4 ;
  • Figure 6 is a frontal view of a portion of the safety device according to the invention.
  • Figure 7 is a side view of the portion in Figure 6;
  • Figure 8 is a section taken along the plane VIII-VIII in Figure 6 ;
  • Figures 9 and 10 are respectively a front view and a side view of a further portion of the device.
  • Figures 11 and 12 are respectively a front view and a bottom view of a part of the device
  • Figure 13 is a top view of a further part of the device.
  • Figures 14 to 18 show in sequence various steps for coupling the device according to the invention with a couple of ropes and with a snap-hook;
  • Figures 19 to 22 show the steps of an operating mode of the safety device according to the invention, in which the rope is given to the climber to maintain the latter in security;
  • Figures 23 and 24 show the steps of another operating mode according to which the device acts, in the event of an emergency, as a brake for dynamically stopping, i.e. gently stopping, a possible fall of the climber until the climber is definitively stopped;
  • Figures 25 to 27 show a further automatic stop operating mode of the device in the event that a belayer is not operational
  • Figures 28 to 30 show a further operating mode of the device in which the belayer, before performing other operations, has to obtain intentionally static and secure locking of the climber;
  • Figure 31 shows how the device is used to enable the climber to descend according to the so-called double-rope technique
  • Figure 32 shows the device in a configuration in which the rope is locked automatically during the descent of the climber
  • Figure 33 shows the device in a configuration in which it acts as a self-locking device, cooperating with a snap-hook to lock the rope;
  • Figures 34 to 36 show the device in various steps during so- called use of the "double rope", in which a more gradual and gentle stop and locking are obtained;
  • Figure 37 shows how it is possible to connect the device according to the invention in such a manner as to enable a leading climber in a group of roped climbers to recover the second climber in a group of roped climbers;
  • Figures 38 to 40 show the device respectively during recovery of the second climber in a group of roped climbers, in a self-locking position, and in a release position that enables rope to be given to the second climber in the group of roped climbers if necessary.
  • a safety device 1 for ropes 70 that is suitable for being used in various sectors, such as the sporting sector, the industrial sector, or in the emergency rescue sector.
  • the safety device 1 is particularly suitable for being used for climbing, mountaineering, caving and in general in all activities that require the use of ropes to which to connect a load or individual securely to be supported and/or moved and/or secured during a movement, for example an ascent or descent movement with respect to a wall.
  • the safety device 1 acts as a braking device, lowering device and as a self- locking device both in cases of emergency and necessity.
  • the device 1 that will be disclosed below is shaped for being able to be coupled with one or two ropes 70. Nevertheless, the device can be suitably modified to enable coupling with any number of ropes and according to particular needs.
  • the device 1 is used by a user, called belayer, to assist a climber during the ascent, for example of a rock wall.
  • the belayer wears a harness to which the device 1 is connectable by means of a snap-hook 60, as will be disclosed further on.
  • the device 1 comprises a supporting structure 2 defining a gap 3 inside that is suitable for housing part of the ropes 70.
  • the supporting structure 2 comprises a pair of suitably shaped plate elements 4 arranged mutually parallel and connected and spaced apart from one another by suitable elements that perform several functions, as will be disclosed in greater detail below.
  • Each plate element 4 has a relatively small thickness in relation to the other dimensions.
  • Each plate element 4 comprises a first zone 5, a second zone 6 that are spaced apart from one another and a third zone 7 that connects the first zone 5 to the second zone 6.
  • the first zones 5 of the two plate elements 4 extend on respective first planes PI that are parallel to one another.
  • the first zones 5 are spaced apart from one another by a first distance Dl .
  • the second zones 6 of the two plate elements 4 extend on respective second planes P2 that are parallel to one another.
  • the second zones 6 are distant from one another by a second distance D2.
  • the second distance D2 is less than the first distance Dl.
  • the third zones 7 extend along surfaces S arranged transversely to the first planes PI and to the second planes P2 and converge mutually.
  • the surfaces S converge on one another in a direction that goes from the first zones 5 to the second zones 6.
  • the lie between the first zone 5 and the third zone 7 varies at a first connecting strip 26.
  • the lie between the second zone 6 and the third zone 7 varies at a second connecting strip 27.
  • the third zones 7 are arranged in such a manner as to bound, inside the gap 3, a zone that narrows progressively to the second zones 6. A wedging zone is thus defined.
  • ropes 70 as the ropes 70 approach the second zones 6, they are wedged between the plate elements 4, receiving from the latter a braking or also locking effect. This happens above with ropes 70 having a diameter that is not excessively small, as will be seen below.
  • Each first zone 5 comprises a first free end 8, which is further than the third zone 7.
  • the first zone 5 is bounded on one side by a first edge 20 and, on the opposite side, by a second edge 21.
  • the first edge 20, at the fourth edge 23, has a notch zone 25 the function of which will be disclosed below.
  • Each second zone 6 is bounded by a third edge 22, in particular and not limitingly of circular shape, that is positioned at a second end 40 opposite the first end 8.
  • Each third zone 7 is bounded on one side by a fourth edge 23 and on the opposite side by a fifth edge 24.
  • a slot opening 30 is obtained by means of which it is possible to couple a snap-hook with the device 1.
  • the slot opening 30 extends partially in the first zone 5, partially in the second zone 6 and partially in the third zone 7, along a longitudinal axis K (shown in Figures 4 and 9) .
  • the plate elements 4 can be made of metal, for example stainless steel, or any other material with great mechanical properties and reduced weight.
  • the profile and the thickness of the plate elements 4, and the shape of the slot openings 30 are such as simultaneously to bestow great mechanical resistance and a very small weight .
  • the first ends 8 are shaped for coupling with a first member 9, suitable for coming into contact with the rope/s 70.
  • the first member 9 comprises a first portion 10 that has the shape of a bush and defines a first deviating element 10.
  • the first portion 10 comprises a coupling cavity for coupling, on opposite sides, with respective first fixing elements 11.
  • the coupling cavities comprise a first threaded coupling hole 16 for coupling with first screws 11, or other equivalent fixing elements.
  • respective first apertures 12 are obtained that are suitable for receiving the first screws 11 to enable the connection between the plate elements 4 and first member 9.
  • the first deviating element 10 defines part of a path that is followed by the ropes 70 inside the gap 3.
  • the first deviating element 10 is shaped for imposing on the ropes 70 a first curve CI, as shown in Figures 16, 17, 18.
  • the first deviating element 10 is suitable for being partially wound by the ropes 70 and has a function of generating friction in contact with the ropes 70, such as to slow the sliding of the ropes 70 with respect to the device 1 to a greater or lesser degree according to a given operating condition, as will be seen below.
  • the first deviating element 10 having a bush shape, also has the function of acting as a spacer for the two plate elements 4.
  • the first deviating element 10 connects the two plate elements 4, maintaining the two plate elements 4 spaced apart from one another by the first distance Dl .
  • the first member 9 comprises a second portion 13 that is shaped in such a manner as to define a second deviating element 13.
  • the second deviating element 13 comprises a curved deviating surface 14 that is suitable for receiving the rope/s 70 in contact.
  • the second portion 13 comprises both hollow zones and full zones that are suitably distributed in such a manner as to meet desired mechanical resistance and lightness characteristics .
  • an opening 17 is obtained that is arranged orthogonally to the plate elements 4.
  • the opening 17 comprises a second coupling hole 17, which is in particular threaded, for coupling with respective coupling elements, such as second screws 18, or other equivalent fixing elements, the function of which will be disclosed further one.
  • the second screws 18 may be, in a non- limiting manner, of hexagonal type.
  • the second portion 13 is fixed to the first bush portion 10 by a baffle portion 15 that extends orthogonally with respect to the a longitudinal axis of the first portion 10.
  • the baffle portion 15 extends along a symmetrical plane Ps that intercepts the first portion 10 and the second portion 13 substantially in respective median zones.
  • the first portion 10, the second portion 13 and the baffle portion 15 are parts of a single body.
  • the first member 9 is coupled with the two plate elements 4 in such a manner as to be rotatably movable with respect thereto.
  • the first member 9 is movable from an opening position A, shown in Figures 5, 15, 16, 17, in which the second portion 13 is extracted from the gap 3, to a closed position E, shown in Figures 1, 3, 4, 14, 18, 19-40, in which at least part of the deviating element 13 is housed inside the gap 3.
  • the second screws 18 are received in the recess zones 25 that act as resting elements that limit rotation of the first member 9 with respect to a direction that goes from the first edge 20 to the second edge 21.
  • the thrust of the rope 70 on the second deviating element 13 is contrasted by the recess zones 25 on which the second screws 18 come to rest.
  • the second screws 18 are provided with respective heads 19 that perform a further reinforcing function for the supporting structure 2.
  • the heads 19, in the closed position E prevents the plate elements 4 from moving way from one another. This enables the device 1 to be reinforced further.
  • the curved deviating surface 14 protrudes through the first edge 20 outside the gap 3.
  • the second deviating element 13 defines, similarly to the first deviating element 10, a further part of the path that is followed by the ropes 70 inside the gap 3.
  • the second deviating element 13 is shaped for imposing on the ropes 70 a second curve C2 , is shown in Figures 16, 17, 18.
  • the second deviating element 13 is suitable for being partially wound by the ropes 70, in particular on the curved deviating surface 14, and has a function of generating friction in contact with the ropes 70 so as to contrast the sliding of the ropes 70 with respect to the device 1.
  • the first member 9, in non limiting manner, can be made in a single body, for example steel, or die-cast aluminium or another suitable light material that has high mechanical resistance .
  • the safety device 1 comprises a second member 50 arranged near the second end 40 of each plate element 4.
  • the second member 50 is configured for performing various functions as disclosed below.
  • the second member 50 acts as a third deviating element 50.
  • the third deviating element 50 is shaped for cooperating with a snap-hook 60 (visible in Figures 17 to 40), or other similar means, to define a further part of the path that is followed by the ropes 70 inside the gap 3.
  • the rope 70, or the ropes 70, near the third deviating element 50 is forced to follow a third path curve C3.
  • the third deviating element 50 may or may not be in contact with the ropes 70, depending on the particular operating condition in which the device 1 finds itself, as will be specified below. In all cases, in one contact position between the third deviating element 50 and the ropes 70, the third deviating element 50 contributes to imposing the aforesaid third curve C3 on the ropes 70.
  • the third deviating element 50 in a condition in which it is in contact with the ropes 70, stops movement of the latter.
  • the third deviating element 50 can also act as a braking element. In other words, in contact with the ropes 70, friction is generated that slows the corresponding sliding thereof with respect to the device 1.
  • the third deviating element 50 acts as a locking element 50.
  • the third deviating element 50 comprises a friction surface
  • the friction surface 51 facing the inside of the gap 3.
  • the friction surface 51 is in particular concave towards the inside of the device 1, and more specifically, is substantially cylindrical to mate better with the curves that the ropes 70 adopt near the third deviating element 50. Nevertheless, the friction surface 51 can also have other desired shapes.
  • the attrition promoting means 51 can be provided that are suitable for increasing the braking effect or for reinforcing the locking effect of the third deviating element 50 in relation to the rope/s 70.
  • the attrition promoting means comprises ridge zones and/or recess zones that are suitable distributed and distanced such as to define knurling 51 on the friction surface 50.
  • the recess zones and/or the ridge zones extend transversely in relation to the second planes P2.
  • the recess zones and/or the ridge zones extend transversely, in particular, orthogonally, with respect to a direction U along which the ropes 70 can move, such as to intensify, in a mutual contact position, the braking or locking effect on the ropes 70.
  • third deviating element 50 openings or third coupling holes 52 are obtained, which are angularly or equally distributed, in particular threaded for coupling with respective fixing elements, in particular third screws 54 or other equivalent fixing elements.
  • respective fixing elements in particular third screws 54 or other equivalent fixing elements.
  • respective second openings 31 that are suitable for receiving the third screws 54 to enable the deviating element 50 to be fixed to the plate elements 4.
  • the third deviating element 50 can be made of steel, or of cast aluminium or another suitable material that is light and provided with great mechanical resistance.
  • the third deviating element 50 acts as a locking element for the ropes 70.
  • the third deviating element 50 cooperating with the snap-hook 60, locks the ropes 70 preventing the sliding thereof with respect to the device 1.
  • the ropes 70 can lock when the snap-hook 60 and the third deviating element 50 are moved together to a position of reduced distance that means that the ropes 70 are squeezed between the third deviating element 50 and the snap-hook 60, in a locking region B.
  • the device 1 is thus arranged in a locking configuration L (shown in Figures 27, 30, 33, 36, 39) .
  • the third deviating element 50 as more clearly visible in Figures 3, 11 and 12, has a semiannular shape, and also has the function of acting as a spacing element for the two plate elements 4.
  • the third deviating element 50 firmly connects the two plate elements 4, maintaining the two plate elements spaced apart by the second distance D2.
  • the third deviating element 50 has a thickness that is substantially equal to the second distance D2.
  • the thickness of the third deviating element 50, and thus the second distance D2 are preferably less than the first distance Dl that separates the first two zones 5 of the plate elements 5 in such a manner that it defines, between the third zones 7, a zone of progressive narrowing R that gets narrower the nearer it gets to the third deviating element 50.
  • This has the function of generating an effect of wedging the ropes 70 between the third zones 7, which accentuates the braking effect that the ropes 70 undergo. This effect is achieved particularly when the diameter of the rope 70, or the sum of the diameters of the ropes 70 is relatively great, i.e. is greater than the second distance D2.
  • the particular geometric configuration of the device 1 thus has the advantage of obtaining braking of the ropes 70 or also locking of the latter by means of the plate elements 4, in particular of the third zones 7 against which the ropes 70 go to press.
  • the ropes 70 are subject to the action of the snap-hook 60 and, if the latter is moved towards the third deviating element 50, the ropes 70 are brought into contact with the third deviating element 50 and/or with the third zones 7, in such a manner as to undergo braking that can be transformed into locking, depending on the intensity with which the ropes 70 are clamped.
  • the ropes 70 first come to rest on the friction surface 51 and subsequently, possibly, through the effect of the crushing experienced, they come into contact laterally also with the plate elements 4.
  • the ropes 70 first come to rest on the third zones 7, undergoing the braking or locking effect of the plate elements 4. If the clamping force on the ropes 70 increases, the ropes 70 may also go to press against the friction surface 51, receiving a further braking or locking action.
  • the device 1 comprises a third member 65, better shown in Figure 13, which acts as a fourth deviating element 65.
  • the fourth deviating element 65 is fixed at both ends to the two plate elements 4, in such a way as to be in a stationary position, in particular in a zone that is distinct from the locking zone B or from the zone in which the third deviating element 50 is located.
  • the rope 70 in the path inside the gap 3, arriving from the second member 50 partially winds the third member 65 and subsequently exits the device 1, defining a free portion 80 of rope that can be grasped by the user.
  • the third member or fourth deviating element 65 acts as a braking element 65 for the rope/s 70.
  • the deviating or braking element 65 is shaped for deviating the rope/s 70 by imposing thereupon a fourth variable curve C4 that enables a braking effect to be calibrated that the braking element 65 exerts on the rope/s 70.
  • the fourth curve C4 can be modified by varying the lay or direction along which the free portion 80 of the rope/s 70 is arranged.
  • the length of the contact zone of the rope 70 on the braking element 65 is also varied, varying in this manner also the intensity of the braking effect.
  • the fourth curve C4 can be varied, it is possible to control the braking effect of the device 1 on the rope 70, as can be seen in Figures 18-21, 23, 24, 28, 29, 31.
  • the fourth deviating element 65 also acts as a spacing element for the two plate elements 4.
  • the fourth deviating element 65 connects the two plate elements 4 by maintaining the two plate elements 4 spaced apart from one another by the first distance Dl .
  • the fourth deviating element 65 contributes to reinforcing structurally the device 1, by acting in this manner as a reinforcing element. Owing to the fact that the braking element 65 is bounded on both sides by the plate elements 4, the risk is eliminated that the free portion 80 can escape and lose contact with the braking element 65, thus facilitating braking operations for the belayer.
  • the braking element 65 is positioned by considering a dimension that is parallel to the longitudinal axis K, to a position that is substantially intermediate between the first deviating element 10 and the third deviating element 50. Further, a decentring distance G of the braking element 65 from the longitudinal axis K, or from a substantially central zone of the supporting structure 2 is noticeably less than an end distance H between the first deviating element 10 and the third deviating element 50. Further, the braking element 65 is nearer the third deviating element or locking element 50 than the first deviating element 10. Owing to this first geometrical configuration, optimal interaction between the device 1 and the rope/s 70 is obtained.
  • the braking element 65 in one non-limiting embodiment shown in attached Figures, comprises a non-rotatable pulley element 65 fixed on both sides to the plate elements 4.
  • an opening is obtained, in particular a fourth threaded coupling hole 66 that is coupled on opposite sides with respective fixing elements, such as fourth screws 67 or other equivalent fixing elements.
  • third openings 32 are obtained that are traversed by the fourth screws 67 and permit the plate elements 4 to be reciprocally fixed to the pulley element 65.
  • the threaded coupling hole 66 is positioned with respect to an edge 53 of the nearest friction surface 51, at a distance that comprises a first distance component X, measured orthogonally with respect to the longitudinal axis K, and a second distance component Y, measured parallel to the longitudinal axis K.
  • the position of the pulley element 65 is suitably chosen to impose an optimal path curve on the rope 70 permitting better control thereof.
  • the pulley element 65 is arranged substantially at an intermediate position between the first deviating element 10 and the third deviating element 50, but decentred by a certain amount with respect to the longitudinal axis K.
  • the diameter of the pulley element 65 is suitably chosen in such a manner as to ensure correct operation with ropes 70 of various diameters .
  • the pulley element 65 as better shown in Figure 13, comprises two throats 68 alongside one another, each of which is suitable for interacting with a respective rope 70.
  • the throats 68 are bound laterally by tilted surfaces, in such a manner that the throats 68 are flared.
  • the flared shape of the throats 68 is such that the further the rope 70 penetrates the throats 68 the more the rope 70 receives a clamping action that increases the braking effect.
  • the user desires to decrease or increase the braking effect on the rope 70, he can act by varying an angle of tilt I of the free portion 80 measured with respect to a connecting portion of the rope/s 70 that connects the device 1 directly to the climber, as shown in Figures 23 and 24.
  • the greater the angle of tilt I the less the extent of contact and winding of the rope 70 on the braking element 65 and thus the less the braking effect that the braking element 65 exerts on the ropes 70.
  • the braking element 65 can have only one, or another desired number of throats, depending on the number of ropes with which it is desired to associate the device 1.
  • the braking element 65 can have other equivalents and suitable means for calibrating the braking effect.
  • surfaces provided with a suitable friction coefficient can be provided that may be variable from zone to zone according to the winding arch of the rope 70 on the surfaces .
  • the third member 65 can be made of steel or aluminium or of another suitable material that is light and mechanically tough at the same time.
  • Figures 19 to 22 show the steps that follow during a manner of use in which the user, i.e. the belayer, supplies rope to the climber to enable the climber to continue the ascent.
  • the belayer grasps the device 1, so as to maintain the snap-hook 60 spaced away from the second member 50, and with the other hand the belayer feeds out the rope 70 from the device 1 to the climber.
  • the belayer can hold the free portion 80 of rope constantly to be sure to be able to intervene constantly in the event of the climber falling, to be able to ensure that the stop in flight of the latter is not sharp but gentle and progressive, using the device 1 in brake mode.
  • Brake mode is schematised in Figure 23.
  • Figures 25 to 27 show the behaviour of the device 1 and the steps that follow one another in a manner of use of automatic locking in case of emergency, i.e. when an objective event makes the belayer non-operative .
  • both hands of the belayer owing, for example, to unwellness, or the fall of a rock or another unexpected event, lose hold of the rope 70 and of the device 1, as shown in Figure 26, the device 1 acts automatically, going into a self-locking configuration.
  • the friction that is generated, and which is due to the windiness of the path inside the gap 3 is such as to drag the device 1, moving the device away from the snap-hook 60.
  • the device 1 thus advantageously enables the safety of the climber to be safeguarded also in the event of the belayer being out of action, unlike prior-art braking devices, which in the event of the belayer being out of action cannot prevent potentially serious accidents from happening.
  • Figures 28 to 30 show the steps of a manner of use of locking in the event of necessity, i.e. when the belayer needs intentionally to lock the climber, to perform an activity, for example undoing a knot, taking a photograph, or any other activity that requires the hands to be used.
  • the belayer as figure 29 shows, accompanies the device 1 from a base or normal operating position (shown in Figure 28) to a static locking position, shown in Figure 30, in such a manner that the third deviating element 50 works as a locking element cooperating with the snap-hook 60.
  • the snap-hook 60 and the third deviating element 50 are near to one another and lock the rope 70, preventing the rope 70 from sliding with respect to the device 1.
  • the climber is secured in a stationary position for all the time necessary for the belayer to complete the task in complete serenity.
  • Figures 31 to 33 show the steps of a manner of use of the device 1 in the so-called “double rope technique”, i.e. a descent technique of the climber.
  • the belayer holds the device 1 and with the other acts on the free portion 80, giving rope to the climber to enable him to descend with respect to the waiting point provided on the wall.
  • the snap-hook 60 and the locking element 50 are kept away from one another, to enable the rope 70 to slide, but at the same time the belayer acts, by exploiting the braking element 65.
  • the free portion 80 is subjected to suitable traction, such as to maintain the free portion 80 in contact with the braking element 65, and also the contact or winding extension is regulated in order to dose the braking effect on the rope 70.
  • the rope 70 starts to slide for a few fractions of a second compared with the device 1, as shown in Figure 32, until the latter is arranged in the locking position, in which the snap-hook 60 and the locking element 50 are near one another.
  • the transition from the initial position, in which the device 1 acts as a braking descending device, to the final position shown in Figure 33, in which the device 1 acts as a self- locking device, is rather instantaneous but not excessively sudden. This thus causes a stop that is not unpleasant for the user who is making the descent .
  • the device 1 in this manner enables special and distinct devices or other means to be dispensed with that are usually used in the prior art, such as, for example, the self-locking knot, which is also rather difficult to undo and retie and causes time delays that are not negligible.
  • the device 1 is thus easier to use and safer and also enables a faster descent of the climber to be obtained.
  • FIGs 34 to 36 a use of the device 1 in the "double rope technique" is shown, in which, unlike what is disclosed with reference to Figures 31 to 33, a very gradual and gentle stop and locking are achieved.
  • the belayer does not suddenly release the free portion 80 of the rope 70 but assists the device 1 by accompanying it gradually to the locking configuration L.
  • the climber is not subjected to any sharp deceleration.
  • Figure 37 shows another manner of use of the device 1 that allows the climber, in this case said first climber in a group of roped climbers, to recover his companion, in this case said second climber in a group of roped climbers.
  • the device 1 is in an overturned position with respect to what has been disclosed up until now and the snap- hook 60 is connected, by a further rope 71, to further snap hooks 61 that are in turn connected to anchoring elements 62 fixed to the wall.
  • the free portion 80 By pulling the free portion 80 downwards the rope 70 is recovered to which the second climber in the roped group is attached, as is visible in Figure 38. If the grip on the free portion 80 is released, the second climber in the roped group falls, the device 1 is arranged in the self-locking position shown in Figure 39, in which the snap- hook 60 and the locking element 50 lock sliding of the rope 70.
  • the second climber in the roped group requests for some reason rope for moving backwards, as shown in Figure 40, it is sufficient to raise the device 1, in such a manner as to remove the snap-hook 60 from the locking element 50, and at the same time it is sufficient to provide rope by exploiting the braking element 65 to calibrate the braking effect on the rope to prevent the second climber in the roped group from escaping control .
  • the user acts in such as manner as to make the rope 70 interact with the braking element 65, by raising the rope 70, as visible in Figure 40, more or less according to the required braking force.
  • the device 1 is raised with respect to the snap-hook 60 to release the rope 70, the user can firmly grip the free portion 80, raising the latter more or less according to necessity.
  • the device 1 in normal operating conditions the device 1 is used and behaves as a brake but in the event of necessity or when required it can easily and reliably operate and be used as a self-locking device. Owing only to the device 1, in this way the advantages and utility of a brake and the advantages and utility of a self-locking device are obtained simultaneously.
  • the device 1 can also be used only as a self- locking device, without having to vary the arrangement of the rope/s 70 with respect thereto, or can be used only as a braking device, in such a manner that the rope/s 70 does not pass through the snap-hook 60.
  • the device 1 is further very safe inasmuch as is anyway acts as a braking device if the user by mistake does not insert the rope/s 70 into the snap-hook 60.
  • the device 1 according to the invention is rather compact and does not include movable levers or protruding bodies that could act as blunt instruments during possible improvised manoeuvres or pulls, thus being dangerous for a user.
  • the supporting structure 2 instead of comprising the two plate elements 4, can be made of a single body. It is further possible to provide for the first deviating element 10, and/or the second deviating element 13, and/or the third deviating element 50 and/or the fourth deviating element 65 being part of the aforesaid single body. It is possible to configure and dimension the device 1 in a desired manner in function of the multiple applications to which the device 1 can be intended.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Business, Economics & Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)
  • Ropes Or Cables (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte à un dispositif de sécurité qui convient pour être couplé à une ou plusieurs cordes (70). Ledit dispositif de sécurité comprend une structure de support (2) qui définit un espace (3) qui convient pour recevoir une partie de ladite ou desdites cordes (70) et qui convient pour être couplée à un mousqueton (60), un premier moyen déflecteur (10) formé pour imposer sur une ou plusieurs cordes (70) une première courbe (C1), un deuxième moyen déflecteur (13) formé pour imposer sur une ou plusieurs cordes (70) une deuxième courbe (C2), un troisième moyen déflecteur (50) formé pour imposer sur une ou plusieurs cordes (70) une troisième courbe (C3) et qui convient pour coopérer avec ledit mousqueton (60) afin de verrouiller ladite ou lesdites cordes (70) dans une zone de verrouillage (B), et un quatrième moyen déflecteur (65) fixé à ladite structure de support (2) dans une position fixe qui est distincte de ladite zone de verrouillage (B) et formé pour imposer sur une ou plusieurs cordes (70) une quatrième courbe (C4) qui est variable afin de réguler l'effet de freinage dudit dispositif (1) sur ladite ou lesdites cordes (70).
PCT/IB2011/052910 2010-07-02 2011-07-01 Dispositif de sécurité pour cordes Ceased WO2012001661A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP11744073.5A EP2498876B1 (fr) 2010-07-02 2011-07-01 Dispositif de sécurité pour des cordes

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITMO2010A000200 2010-07-02
IT000200A ITMO20100200A1 (it) 2010-07-02 2010-07-02 Dispositivo di sicurezza per corde

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2012001661A1 true WO2012001661A1 (fr) 2012-01-05

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PCT/IB2011/052910 Ceased WO2012001661A1 (fr) 2010-07-02 2011-07-01 Dispositif de sécurité pour cordes

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2498876B1 (fr)
IT (1) ITMO20100200A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2012001661A1 (fr)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2990873A1 (fr) * 2012-05-22 2013-11-29 Zedel Bloqueur de longe a corps mobile en rotation
CN103566493A (zh) * 2012-08-03 2014-02-12 何少敦 一种悬吊器
CN103566492A (zh) * 2012-07-26 2014-02-12 何少敦 一种悬吊器
CN103845827A (zh) * 2012-12-05 2014-06-11 何少敦 一种悬吊器绕绳方法及其悬吊器
EP2630991A3 (fr) * 2012-02-23 2014-12-31 Honeywell International Inc. Régleur de corde avec dispositif de remplacement rapide de corde
CN114587050A (zh) * 2020-12-07 2022-06-07 倍腾国际股份有限公司 旋转绳扣

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN113879797A (zh) * 2021-09-29 2022-01-04 龙口矿业集团有限公司 一种dt2型带式输送机急停开关拉绳固定器

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE244762C (fr)
FR2875707A1 (fr) 2004-09-24 2006-03-31 Franck Paul Lucien Gressier Dispositif assureur descendeur autobloquant dynamique pour l'escalade, l'alpinisme ou la speleologie

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE244762C (fr)
FR2875707A1 (fr) 2004-09-24 2006-03-31 Franck Paul Lucien Gressier Dispositif assureur descendeur autobloquant dynamique pour l'escalade, l'alpinisme ou la speleologie

Cited By (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP2630991A3 (fr) * 2012-02-23 2014-12-31 Honeywell International Inc. Régleur de corde avec dispositif de remplacement rapide de corde
US9138603B2 (en) 2012-02-23 2015-09-22 Honeywell International Inc. Rope adjuster with fast rope replacement device
FR2990873A1 (fr) * 2012-05-22 2013-11-29 Zedel Bloqueur de longe a corps mobile en rotation
CN103418114A (zh) * 2012-05-22 2013-12-04 齐德公司 具有可转动本体的安全带阻滞装置
EP2666518A3 (fr) * 2012-05-22 2014-07-16 Zedel Bloqueur de longe à corps mobile en rotation
US9227092B2 (en) 2012-05-22 2016-01-05 Zedel Safety rope blocker having a rotatable body
RU2622818C2 (ru) * 2012-05-22 2017-06-20 Зедель Блокировочное устройство страховочной веревки, имеющее поворотный корпус
CN103566492A (zh) * 2012-07-26 2014-02-12 何少敦 一种悬吊器
CN103566493A (zh) * 2012-08-03 2014-02-12 何少敦 一种悬吊器
CN103845827A (zh) * 2012-12-05 2014-06-11 何少敦 一种悬吊器绕绳方法及其悬吊器
CN114587050A (zh) * 2020-12-07 2022-06-07 倍腾国际股份有限公司 旋转绳扣
CN114587050B (zh) * 2020-12-07 2024-03-08 倍腾国际股份有限公司 旋转绳扣

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EP2498876B1 (fr) 2016-03-02
EP2498876A1 (fr) 2012-09-19
ITMO20100200A1 (it) 2012-01-03

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