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WO2012052536A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising aloe vera and an isethionic acid derivative - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising aloe vera and an isethionic acid derivative Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012052536A2
WO2012052536A2 PCT/EP2011/068412 EP2011068412W WO2012052536A2 WO 2012052536 A2 WO2012052536 A2 WO 2012052536A2 EP 2011068412 W EP2011068412 W EP 2011068412W WO 2012052536 A2 WO2012052536 A2 WO 2012052536A2
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weight
composition according
composition
carbon atoms
chosen
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PCT/EP2011/068412
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French (fr)
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WO2012052536A4 (en
WO2012052536A3 (en
Inventor
Mickaël Poletti
Julie Vazquez Y De Lama
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Publication of WO2012052536A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012052536A3/en
Publication of WO2012052536A4 publication Critical patent/WO2012052536A4/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising Aloe vera and an isethionic acid derivative
  • the present invention relates to a foaming cosmetic composition
  • a foaming cosmetic composition comprising Aloe vera and an isethionic acid derivative, and also to the use of said composition, in particular in the cosmetics field as a product for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, keratin fibres (eyelashes and hair) or the scalp and also for treating oily skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
  • foaming cleansing products are generally either foaming products with soaps which have the advantage of giving a creamy foam but which can cause taughtness due to them having too much detergence, or foaming products without soaps which generally comprise anionic surfactants such as sulphate derivatives, for instance sodium laureth sulphate, and/or thickeners of synthetic origin, such as acrylic polymers.
  • anionic surfactants such as sulphate derivatives, for instance sodium laureth sulphate, and/or thickeners of synthetic origin, such as acrylic polymers.
  • compositions must be thickened in order to have a consistency suitable for their use, in particular by using salts, thickeners of synthetic origin or gums, but the increase in viscosity can have a negative impact on the qualities of the foam (in particular in terms of foam initiation and amount of foam).
  • foaming compositions which exhibit good innocuousness with respect to keratin materials, while nevertheless at the same time having the required properties for foaming products, namely a suitable viscosity and rapid conversion to foam, an abundant foam and good rinsing.
  • the subject of the present application is a foaming cosmetic composition
  • a foaming cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, Aloe vera in a content of at least 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one surfactant chosen from isethionic acid derivatives and salts thereof.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is herein intended to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the eyes and/or keratin fibres such as the eyelashes or the hair.
  • compositions having a reduced, or even zero, content of sulphate-derived detergent surfactants and having a suitable consistency and good foaming properties makes it possible to obtain compositions having a reduced, or even zero, content of sulphate-derived detergent surfactants and having a suitable consistency and good foaming properties.
  • Aloe vera in combination with the isethionic acid derivative makes it possible to obtain a significant increase in the viscosity of the compositions, in particular a viscosity greater than that obtained when Aloe vera is combined with a sulphate-derived surfactant.
  • sulphate or sulphate-derived surfactant is intended to mean a compound comprising at least one sulphate functional group (-OS0 3 H or -OS0 3 ).
  • compositions of the invention are foaming cleansing compositions that can be rinsed off; they are in the form of a translucent aqueous fluid which is stable over time. They have good cosmetic properties, i.e. an even and pleasant texture on application, a sufficient foam and good innocuousness.
  • composition according to the invention may in particular constitute a composition for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials.
  • the Aloe vera may be at 100% of active material, and it may be in the form of a powder or in the form of an extract.
  • the term "Aloe vera extract” is intended to mean all types of substances and/or molecules obtained by aqueous and/or alcoholic extraction.
  • the Aloe vera is in the form of a powder.
  • the Aloe vera (CTFA name: ALOE BARBADENSIS) is in the form of a powder at 100% of active material.
  • the amount of Aloe vera dry matter in the composition of the invention should be sufficient to obtain the desired viscosity, i.e. at least 0.03% by weight, preferably at least 0.04% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can range up to 5% by weight, preferably up to 3% by weight, better still up to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the expression "amount of Aloe vera dry matter or active material" is intended to mean the amount obtained once the juice has been dehydrated.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isethionic acid derivative and/or a cosmetically acceptable salt of said derivative.
  • the acyl group may in particular be chosen from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl and oleoyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
  • cosmetically acceptable salts is intended to mean that the hydrogen atom of the acid functional group of the isethionic acid is replaced with an M+ cation, for example chosen from the ions of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the ions of alkaline-earth metals such as Mg, ammonium groups and mixtures thereof.
  • R2, R3, R4 and R5 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • R1 represents an alkyl group containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • R2 represents a linear alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl, in particular a methyl group.
  • R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
  • R4 and R5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • isethionic acid derivative that can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of the compound bearing the INCI name sodium lauroyi methyl isethionate, such as the references Iselux LQ-CLR or Iselux LQ-CLR-SB, or the sodium lauroyi methyl isethionate/sodium methyl isethionate mixture, such as Iselux (pellets), proposed by the company INNOSPEC.
  • the isethionic acid derivatives and salts thereof can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention of course comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable compound or medium is intended to mean a compound or medium of which the use is compatible with application to keratin materials.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the isethionic acid derivative, an "additional" surfactant.
  • additional surfactants used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, anionic or cationic surfactants.
  • amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) can be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof.
  • alkylbetaines such as, for example, cocobetaine, for instance the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name LAURYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Portugal, and oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name STEARYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Portugal.
  • cocobetaine for instance the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis
  • laurylbetaine for instance the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant
  • oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine for instance the product sold under the name LAURYL ETHER (10
  • N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof mention may be made, for example of the cocamidopropylbetaine sold under the name LEBON 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or else those sold as a mixture with glyceryl laurate, such as the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or the lauramidopropylbetaine sold under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P® by the company Witco.
  • sultaines mention may be made of the cocoylamidopropylhydroxysulphobetaine sold under the name CROSULTAINE C-50® by the company Croda.
  • alkyl polyaminocarboxylates APACs
  • alkylamphoacetates mention may be made, for example, of N-disodium N-cocoyl-N- carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), for instance the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and N-sodium N-cocoyl-N- hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate).
  • CFA name disodium cocamphodiacetate
  • MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie
  • CTFA name sodium cocamphoacetate
  • Nonionic emulsifiers such as those sold under the reference CREMOPHOR by the company BASF, esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose(s) (saccharose) and fatty acid(s) containing from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or a mixture of such compounds sold, for example, under the commercial reference Surfhope SE COSME, esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units and of fatty acids, such as, for example, the polyglyceryl-10 laurate sold by the company Dr Straetmans under the reference DERMOFEEL G 10 L, the polyglyceryl-4 caprate sold by the company Evonik under the reference TEGOSOFT PC 41 , and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic emulsifiers such as those sold under the reference CREMOPHOR by the company BASF
  • the total amount (of active material) of additional surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention can range, for example, from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the additional surfactant is preferably present in an amount less than the amount of isethionic acid derivative.
  • the composition advantageously comprises at least one amphoteric additional surfactant, preferably chosen from betaines.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5%, of sulphate-derived anionic surfactants (such as alkyi sulphates, alkyi ether sulphates), in particular it is free of sulphate-derived anionic surfactants.
  • sulphate-derived anionic surfactants such as alkyi sulphates, alkyi ether sulphates
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium, i.e. a medium containing an amount of water of at least 40% by weight, preferably of at least 50% by weight, better still of at least 60% by weight and even better still of at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, but can range up to 95% by weight.
  • aqueous medium i.e. a medium containing an amount of water of at least 40% by weight, preferably of at least 50% by weight, better still of at least 60% by weight and even better still of at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, but can range up to 95% by weight.
  • the amount of water in the composition can range from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight and even better still from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous medium of the composition according to the invention may contain, in addition to the water, one or more solvents chosen from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; and polyols.
  • solvents chosen from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; and polyols.
  • polyols mention may be made of glycerol; glycols such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of solvent(s) in the composition of the invention can range, for example, from 0.5 to 30% by weight and preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous medium may also comprise floral waters and fruit juices.
  • composition may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, in particular of vegetable origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin (for example, xanthan gum).
  • a hydrophilic gelling agent preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, in particular of vegetable origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin (for example, xanthan gum).
  • This plant-derived polysaccharide may, where appropriate, be chemically modified so as to promote its hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses.
  • polysaccharides of plant origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) algal extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof.
  • carrageenans By way of examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30 ® and UTC10 ® from the company Degussa; as alginates, mention may be made of the sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol ® by the company ISP; gums, such as guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, Karaya gum, locust bean gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums, and mixtures thereof; as examples, mention may be made of the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105 ® by the company Rhodia; the mannan and konjac ® gum (1 % glucomannan) sold by the company GfN; modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables, for instance blond pea, from tub
  • cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS ® and Natrosol Plus 330 ® from Aqualon; f) pectins, g) chitosan and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention is exempt from hydrophilic gelling agent.
  • the expression "exempt from hydrophilic gelling agent” is intended to mean that the composition comprises less than 0,05 %, preferably less than 0,01 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of hydrophilic gelling agents.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 2%, better still less than 1 %, or even less than 0.2% by weight. It may be totally free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers.
  • Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (of the carbopol family), acrylic/alkyl acrylate polymers or (co)polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane- sulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen, Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex or Synthalen).
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise an oil.
  • oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:
  • oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or shea butter oil;
  • liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, maize oil, soybean oil, m
  • esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents a fatty acid or fatty alcohol residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl
  • silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, especially volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxy- silicates, and polymethylphenyls
  • the oil is preferably present in a content less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1 % by weight.
  • compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and in particular those used in cleansing products.
  • adjuvants mention may, for example, by made of fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents (EDTA, sodium phytate), pigments, pearlescent agents, matting, bleaching or exfoliating, mineral or organic fillers, soluble dyes, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, antiseptics, antiseborrheic agents, antimicrobial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan or azelaic acid, and also optical brighteners, nonionic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), anionic polymers, fatty substances incompatible with the aqueous medium, such as oils or waxes.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • compositions of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and are, for example, from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and also the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.
  • active agents any care or cleansing active agent normally used in the cosmetics field, and in particular antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid, essential oils, vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin PP (niacinamide) or vitamin B3 (panthenol), and derivatives thereof.
  • antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan
  • keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid
  • essential oils essential oils
  • vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin PP (niacinamide) or vitamin B3 (panthenol), and derivatives thereof.
  • fillers mention may be made of mineral fillers such as silica, clays, ceramic beads, talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC 15 MOO® by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminium silicate, for instance the product sold under the name KAOLIN SUPREME® by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for instance the product sold under the name AM I DON DE MAIS B® by the company ROQUETTE, nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD NAT COS® by the company ATOCHEM, expanded microspheres based on a vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile copolymer encapsulating isobutane, such as those sold under the name EXPANCEL 551 DE® by the company EXPANCEL.
  • mineral fillers such as silica, clays, ceramic beads, talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5
  • the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliant particles which will enable scrubbing of the skin.
  • exfoliant particles use may be made of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origin.
  • polyethylene beads or powder for instance those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or for instance the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont; nylon particles, for instance those sold by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibres, for instance polyamide fibres, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name PULPE POLYAMIDE 12185 TAILLE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice (INCI name: pumice) for instance the pumice 3/B from Eyraud; ground fruit kernel shells such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells; sawdust; glass beads, alumina (aluminium oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), for instance the product sold under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads that melt when applied to the skin, such as,
  • compositions according to the invention can in particular constitute products for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin (body, face, eyes), the scalp and/or the hair.
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the hair and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials.
  • Another subject of the invention consists of the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, as products for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
  • compositions according to the invention can also constitute a composition for treating oily skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp, in particular when they contain an antibacterial agent.
  • specific active agents for treating oily skin may be included therein, such as, for example, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, triclosan, piroctone olamine or niacinamide (vitamin PP).
  • compositions as defined above for preparing a composition intended for treating oily skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
  • Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin materials, characterized in that the composition of the invention is applied to keratin materials, in the presence of water, and in that the foam formed and the soiling residues are removed by rinsing with water.
  • the composition according to the invention can constitute a mask which is rinsed off after a leave-on time of 1 to 3 minutes.
  • compositions 1 and 2 the Aloe vera (where appropriate), the glycerol, the
  • preservative and the salicylic acid are mixed in water at 50-55°C and then the Iselux is added with mixing, the mixture is brought back to ambient temperature, then the betaine is added and the pH of the composition is adjusted.
  • compositions 3 and 4 the Aloe vera (where appropriate), the sodium laureth sulphate, the glycerol, the preservative and the salicylic acid are mixed in water at AT and then the betaine is added and the pH of the composition is adjusted.
  • the Ford cup (diameter 6 mm) viscosity of each composition is measured 24 h after production; this method consists in measuring, at a predetermined temperature, the time taken for 90 g of product to flow through an orifice of predetermined diameter. The result is expressed in seconds.
  • the volume of the sample of composition is at least 150 ml, the product introduced into the cup having a homogeneous and nonaerated appearance.
  • Aloe vera introduced into an isethionic acid derivative-based surfactant system enables a greater increase in viscosity than in a system based on sulphate-derived surfactants.

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Abstract

The subject of the present invention is a foaming composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, Aloe vera in a content of at least 0.03% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one surfactant chosen from isethionic acid derivatives and salts thereof.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising Aloe vera and an isethionic acid derivative
The present invention relates to a foaming cosmetic composition comprising Aloe vera and an isethionic acid derivative, and also to the use of said composition, in particular in the cosmetics field as a product for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, keratin fibres (eyelashes and hair) or the scalp and also for treating oily skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
The commercially available foaming cleansing products are generally either foaming products with soaps which have the advantage of giving a creamy foam but which can cause taughtness due to them having too much detergence, or foaming products without soaps which generally comprise anionic surfactants such as sulphate derivatives, for instance sodium laureth sulphate, and/or thickeners of synthetic origin, such as acrylic polymers.
Although these surfactants are very effective in terms of foam and detergence, they can have an irritant potential at a high content, in particular in individuals with sensitive or reactive skin.
Moreover, these compositions must be thickened in order to have a consistency suitable for their use, in particular by using salts, thickeners of synthetic origin or gums, but the increase in viscosity can have a negative impact on the qualities of the foam (in particular in terms of foam initiation and amount of foam).
It is therefore sought to obtain foaming compositions which exhibit good innocuousness with respect to keratin materials, while nevertheless at the same time having the required properties for foaming products, namely a suitable viscosity and rapid conversion to foam, an abundant foam and good rinsing.
The Applicant has discovered that the use of an isethionic acid-derived surfactant, in combination with Aloe vera, makes it possible to achieve these objectives.
Thus, the subject of the present application is a foaming cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, Aloe vera in a content of at least 0.03% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one surfactant chosen from isethionic acid derivatives and salts thereof. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is herein intended to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the scalp, the eyes and/or keratin fibres such as the eyelashes or the hair. The use of isethionic acid-derived surfactants and of Aloe vera which has thickening properties makes it possible to obtain compositions having a reduced, or even zero, content of sulphate-derived detergent surfactants and having a suitable consistency and good foaming properties.
It has also been noted that Aloe vera in combination with the isethionic acid derivative makes it possible to obtain a significant increase in the viscosity of the compositions, in particular a viscosity greater than that obtained when Aloe vera is combined with a sulphate-derived surfactant.
The term "sulphate or sulphate-derived surfactant" is intended to mean a compound comprising at least one sulphate functional group (-OS03H or -OS03 ).
The compositions of the invention are foaming cleansing compositions that can be rinsed off; they are in the form of a translucent aqueous fluid which is stable over time. They have good cosmetic properties, i.e. an even and pleasant texture on application, a sufficient foam and good innocuousness.
The composition according to the invention may in particular constitute a composition for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials.
Aloe vera
The Aloe vera may be at 100% of active material, and it may be in the form of a powder or in the form of an extract. The term "Aloe vera extract" is intended to mean all types of substances and/or molecules obtained by aqueous and/or alcoholic extraction. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the Aloe vera is in the form of a powder. Preferably, the Aloe vera (CTFA name: ALOE BARBADENSIS) is in the form of a powder at 100% of active material.
The following commercial references can, for example, be used:
- ALOE CON UP 200 CT 82 (Florida Food)
- ALOE VERA FREEZE DRIED POWDER 200: 1 (MA 170) (Mexi Aloe Lab)
- ALOE-CON WG 200 (Florida Food)
- ACTIVERA 1 200 C (AV105702-00) (Active organics) - 4044 PE ALOE VERA 1 : 199 (Bio-Botanica)
- ALOE VERA GEL DECOLORIZED 1X (TERRY)
- ALOE VERA GEL (1X-CG) / CODE 03-2312 (CONCENTRATED ALOE
CORPORATION).
The amount of Aloe vera dry matter in the composition of the invention should be sufficient to obtain the desired viscosity, i.e. at least 0.03% by weight, preferably at least 0.04% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It can range up to 5% by weight, preferably up to 3% by weight, better still up to 1 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. When the Aloe vera used is in the form of Aloe vera juice, the expression "amount of Aloe vera dry matter or active material" is intended to mean the amount obtained once the juice has been dehydrated.
Isethionic acid derivative
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one isethionic acid derivative and/or a cosmetically acceptable salt of said derivative. The isethionic acid derivative or salt may be, for example, chosen from acyl isethionic acids, salts thereof (isethionates) and mixtures thereof, preferably from the salts of acyl isethionic acids of which the hydrocarbon-based chain R1 of the acyl group R1 C=0 is linear or branched and contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
The acyl group may in particular be chosen from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl and oleoyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
The term "cosmetically acceptable salts" is intended to mean that the hydrogen atom of the acid functional group of the isethionic acid is replaced with an M+ cation, for example chosen from the ions of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the ions of alkaline-earth metals such as Mg, ammonium groups and mixtures thereof.
Mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula:
Figure imgf000005_0001
in which R1 and M+ have the same meaning as above,
R2, R3, R4 and R5 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R1 represents an alkyl group containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R2 represents a linear alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl, in particular a methyl group.
Preferably, R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
Preferably, R4 and R5 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
By way of isethionic acid derivative that can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of the compound bearing the INCI name sodium lauroyi methyl isethionate, such as the references Iselux LQ-CLR or Iselux LQ-CLR-SB, or the sodium lauroyi methyl isethionate/sodium methyl isethionate mixture, such as Iselux (pellets), proposed by the company INNOSPEC. The isethionic acid derivatives and salts thereof can be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention of course comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. For the purpose of the present application, the term
"physiologically acceptable compound or medium" is intended to mean a compound or medium of which the use is compatible with application to keratin materials.
Additional surfactants The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the isethionic acid derivative, an "additional" surfactant. The additional surfactants used in the composition according to the invention can be chosen from nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, anionic or cationic surfactants.
Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK- OTHMER", volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the (emulsifying) properties and functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. Mention may in particular be made of amphoteric foaming surfactants.
The amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) can be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof.
As betaines, mention may in particular be made of alkylbetaines, such as, for example, cocobetaine, for instance the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name LAURYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, and oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearylbetaine, for instance the product sold under the name STEARYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica. Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, mention may be made, for example of the cocamidopropylbetaine sold under the name LEBON 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or else those sold as a mixture with glyceryl laurate, such as the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or the lauramidopropylbetaine sold under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P® by the company Witco.
As sultaines, mention may be made of the cocoylamidopropylhydroxysulphobetaine sold under the name CROSULTAINE C-50® by the company Croda. As alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APACs), mention may be made of the sodium cocoylpolyaminocarboxylate sold under the reference AMPHOLAK 7 CX/C® and AMPHOLAK 7 CX® by the company Akzo Nobel, the sodium stearylpolyamidocarboxylate sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 TX/C by the company Akzo Nobel, and the sodium carboxymethyloleylpolypropylamine sold under the name AMPHOLAK X07/C® by the company Akzo Nobel.
As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-disodium N-cocoyl-N- carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), for instance the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and N-sodium N-cocoyl-N- hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate).
Mention may also be made of nonionic emulsifiers, oxyethylenated castor oils such as those sold under the reference CREMOPHOR by the company BASF, esters resulting from the reaction of sucrose(s) (saccharose) and fatty acid(s) containing from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, such as sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate or a mixture of such compounds sold, for example, under the commercial reference Surfhope SE COSME, esters resulting from the reaction of polyglycerol comprising from 2 to 12 glycerol units and of fatty acids, such as, for example, the polyglyceryl-10 laurate sold by the company Dr Straetmans under the reference DERMOFEEL G 10 L, the polyglyceryl-4 caprate sold by the company Evonik under the reference TEGOSOFT PC 41 , and mixtures thereof.
The total amount (of active material) of additional surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention can range, for example, from 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The additional surfactant is preferably present in an amount less than the amount of isethionic acid derivative.
According to one embodiment, the composition advantageously comprises at least one amphoteric additional surfactant, preferably chosen from betaines.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1 %, preferably less than 0.5%, of sulphate-derived anionic surfactants (such as alkyi sulphates, alkyi ether sulphates), in particular it is free of sulphate-derived anionic surfactants.
Aqueous medium
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium, i.e. a medium containing an amount of water of at least 40% by weight, preferably of at least 50% by weight, better still of at least 60% by weight and even better still of at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, but can range up to 95% by weight.
The amount of water in the composition can range from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight and even better still from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous medium of the composition according to the invention may contain, in addition to the water, one or more solvents chosen from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; and polyols. As polyols, mention may be made of glycerol; glycols such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol or polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. The amount of solvent(s) in the composition of the invention can range, for example, from 0.5 to 30% by weight and preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous medium may also comprise floral waters and fruit juices.
The composition may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin, in particular of vegetable origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin (for example, xanthan gum).
This plant-derived polysaccharide may, where appropriate, be chemically modified so as to promote its hydrophilic valency, as is the case for cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses. As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) algal extracts, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof.
By way of examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from the company Degussa; as alginates, mention may be made of the sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; gums, such as guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, Karaya gum, locust bean gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums, and mixtures thereof; as examples, mention may be made of the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; the mannan and konjac® gum (1 % glucomannan) sold by the company GfN; modified or unmodified starches, such as those obtained, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables, for instance blond pea, from tubers, for instance potato or cassava, and tapioca starches; dextrins, such as maize dextrins; as examples, mention may be in particular be made of the rice starch Remy DR I® sold by the company Remy; the maize starch B® from the company Roquette; the potato starch modified with 2- chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch; dextrins, such as the dextrin extracted from maize under the name Index® from the company National Starch; celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl celluloses or hydroxyalkyi celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, mention may be made of the cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon; f) pectins, g) chitosan and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is exempt from hydrophilic gelling agent. The expression "exempt from hydrophilic gelling agent" is intended to mean that the composition comprises less than 0,05 %, preferably less than 0,01 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of hydrophilic gelling agents.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 2%, better still less than 1 %, or even less than 0.2% by weight. It may be totally free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers.
Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (of the carbopol family), acrylic/alkyl acrylate polymers or (co)polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane- sulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen, Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex or Synthalen). The composition according to the invention may comprise an oil.
As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:
- essential oils;
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or shea butter oil;
- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents a fatty acid or fatty alcohol residue containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance Purcellin oil, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetraisostearate; - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, or hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil®;
- silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, especially volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxy- silicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;
- and mixtures thereof.
The oil is preferably present in a content less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1 % by weight.
The compositions of the invention may contain adjuvants conventionally used in the cosmetics field, and in particular those used in cleansing products. As adjuvants, mention may, for example, by made of fragrances, preservatives, sequestering agents (EDTA, sodium phytate), pigments, pearlescent agents, matting, bleaching or exfoliating, mineral or organic fillers, soluble dyes, sunscreens, cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as water-soluble or liposoluble vitamins, antiseptics, antiseborrheic agents, antimicrobial agents such as benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, triclosan or azelaic acid, and also optical brighteners, nonionic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), anionic polymers, fatty substances incompatible with the aqueous medium, such as oils or waxes. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and are, for example, from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants and also the concentrations thereof should be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.
As active agents, mention may be made of any care or cleansing active agent normally used in the cosmetics field, and in particular antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid, essential oils, vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol), vitamin PP (niacinamide) or vitamin B3 (panthenol), and derivatives thereof. As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as silica, clays, ceramic beads, talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC 15 MOO® by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminium silicate, for instance the product sold under the name KAOLIN SUPREME® by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for instance the product sold under the name AM I DON DE MAIS B® by the company ROQUETTE, nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD NAT COS® by the company ATOCHEM, expanded microspheres based on a vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methacrylonitrile copolymer encapsulating isobutane, such as those sold under the name EXPANCEL 551 DE® by the company EXPANCEL. It is also possible to add fibres to the composition of the invention, for instance nylon fibres (POLYAMIDE 0.9 DTEX 0.3 MM sold by Etablissements PAUL BONTE, or cellulose or "Rayon" fibres (RAYON FLOCK RCISE N0003 M04® sold by the company CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION). According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliant particles which will enable scrubbing of the skin. As exfoliant particles, use may be made of exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origin. It is thus possible to use, for example, polyethylene beads or powder, for instance those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or for instance the powder sold under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont; nylon particles, for instance those sold by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibres, for instance polyamide fibres, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name PULPE POLYAMIDE 12185 TAILLE 0.3 MM; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice (INCI name: pumice) for instance the pumice 3/B from Eyraud; ground fruit kernel shells such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells; sawdust; glass beads, alumina (aluminium oxide) (INCI name: Alumina), for instance the product sold under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads that melt when applied to the skin, such as, for example, the spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the name Unispheres by the company Induchem, agar-based capsules sold under the name Primasponge by the company Cognis, and spheres based on jojoba esters sold under the name Floraspheres by the company Floratech; and mixtures thereof. The compositions according to the invention can in particular constitute products for cleansing or removing makeup from the skin (body, face, eyes), the scalp and/or the hair. Another subject of the invention is a process for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, the hair and/or the lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials.
Another subject of the invention consists of the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, as products for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials.
The compositions according to the invention can also constitute a composition for treating oily skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp, in particular when they contain an antibacterial agent. In particular, the specific active agents for treating oily skin may be included therein, such as, for example, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, triclosan, piroctone olamine or niacinamide (vitamin PP).
Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition as defined above for preparing a composition intended for treating oily skin and/or disinfecting the skin and/or the scalp.
Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process for cleansing keratin materials, characterized in that the composition of the invention is applied to keratin materials, in the presence of water, and in that the foam formed and the soiling residues are removed by rinsing with water.
In the case of cleansing the face, the composition according to the invention can constitute a mask which is rinsed off after a leave-on time of 1 to 3 minutes.
The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are in % by weight unless otherwise mentioned.
EXAMPLES
Example 1 :
Example 2 Example 3 Example 4
INCI name Example 1
(invention)
Figure imgf000015_0001
* : active material
Procedure:
For compositions 1 and 2: the Aloe vera (where appropriate), the glycerol, the
preservative and the salicylic acid are mixed in water at 50-55°C and then the Iselux is added with mixing, the mixture is brought back to ambient temperature, then the betaine is added and the pH of the composition is adjusted.
For compositions 3 and 4: the Aloe vera (where appropriate), the sodium laureth sulphate, the glycerol, the preservative and the salicylic acid are mixed in water at AT and then the betaine is added and the pH of the composition is adjusted.
The Ford cup (diameter 6 mm) viscosity of each composition is measured 24 h after production; this method consists in measuring, at a predetermined temperature, the time taken for 90 g of product to flow through an orifice of predetermined diameter. The result is expressed in seconds.
The volume of the sample of composition is at least 150 ml, the product introduced into the cup having a homogeneous and nonaerated appearance.
The sample is thermostatted at 25°C ± 0.5°C before characterization. The following results were obtained:
Figure imgf000016_0001
It is noted that the introduction of Aloe vera into an isethionic acid derivative-based surfactant system enables a greater increase in viscosity than in a system based on sulphate-derived surfactants.

Claims

1. Foaming cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, Aloe vera in a content of at least 0.03% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one surfactant chosen from isethionic acid derivatives of following formula, and salts thereof :
Figure imgf000017_0001
in which:
R1 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
M+ represents a cation preferably chosen from the ions of alkali metals such as Na, Li or K, the ions of alkaline earth metals, ammonium groups and mixtures thereof, and R2 represents a linear alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl, in particular a methyl group ;
R3, R4 and R5 independently represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
2. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that it comprises at least 0.04% by weight of Aloe vera, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the isethionic acid derivatives and salts thereof are present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the isethionic acid derivative or salt thereof is chosen from acyl isethionic acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that the hydrocarbon-based chain of the acyl group is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and contains from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
6. Composition according to Claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the acyl group is chosen from lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl and oleoyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R1 represents an alkyl group containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R3 represents a hydrogen atom.
9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R4 and R5 represent a hydrogen atom.
10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the isethionic acid derivative or salt thereof is chosen from sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, sodium methyl isethionate and mixtures thereof.
1 1. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional surfactant.
12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional surfactant chosen from amphoteric surfactants preferably chosen from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, glycine derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to one of Claim 1 1 or 12, characterized in that the amount of additional surfactants (in terms of active material) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is exempt from hydrophilic gelling agent.
15. Cosmetic process for cleansing or removing makeup from keratin materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined in one of Claims 1 to 14 is applied to said keratin materials.
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