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WO2011128308A1 - Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules de pierre ponce - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules de pierre ponce Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011128308A1
WO2011128308A1 PCT/EP2011/055654 EP2011055654W WO2011128308A1 WO 2011128308 A1 WO2011128308 A1 WO 2011128308A1 EP 2011055654 W EP2011055654 W EP 2011055654W WO 2011128308 A1 WO2011128308 A1 WO 2011128308A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
hair
fatty
keratin fibres
chosen
Prior art date
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2011/055654
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English (en)
Inventor
Samira Khenniche
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/965—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of inanimate origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, inter alia, pumice, to a process for treating keratin fibres using the said composition, to kits containing it and to the use thereof.
  • Keratin fibres may suffer attack of diverse origins, for instance mechanical attack, such as disentangling or brushing, or chemical attack, such as dyeing, bleaching or permanent-waving processes.
  • attack modifies the mechanical, morphological and physicochemical properties of the surface of keratin fibres.
  • the cuticle, the outer layer o f the hair which has a scale structure, is the part most easily affected by attack.
  • the scales are raised and the edges of the scales, which are normally regular, become indented.
  • the cosmetic effects provided by a haircare treatment are dependent on the surface properties of the fibre.
  • a means has been sought for many years for depositing or effecting the penetration of care active agents uniformly onto and into the fibre and for making these deposits remanent with respect to washing several times, such as shampooing.
  • compositions that enable long-lasting treatment of keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres, and especially the hair, in particular hair that is damaged at the surface.
  • the invention is directed, inter alia, towards satisfying this need, and it achieves it by means o f an anhydrous composition for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising at least specific pumice particles and particular compounds.
  • a first subj ect of the invention is thus an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising :
  • o f pumice particles with a mean vo lume diameter o f between 100 and 500 ⁇ ,
  • organic compounds chosen from a) fatty substances, b) water-so luble organic solvents, and a mixture thereof, and
  • a second subj ect of the invention is a process for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising at least one step consisting in placing the hair in contact with a composition as defined above.
  • the invention relates to kits and to a use of the said composition.
  • the treatment of keratin fibres, and especially the hair, with a composition in accordance with the invention or the process according to the invention makes it possible to care for the keratin fibre homogeneously without impairing it, by unifying the deposition of the treating agents .
  • Excellent smoothing of keratin fibres and controlled vo lume of the hairstyle are thus obtained.
  • the hair has greater texture and body.
  • the composition according to the invention and the process give fine hair mass and vo lume control.
  • composition according to the invention shows very good working qualities, i.e. it is easy to apply and to rinse out. Finally, after rinsing, it leaves the keratin fibres, especially such as the hair, feeling very soft.
  • the process may also advantageously be used for smoothing keratin fibres especially such as the hair.
  • the invention may also make it possible to prepare the hair for a hair post-treatment such as the application of a conditioner, a dye, a permanent-waving product, a hair-relaxing product, a bleaching product or the like.
  • the hair treatment that is performed using the invention may be more or less pronounced, as a function of the initial state of the hair and/or of the desired result.
  • This treatment may especially have the effect of including a removal o f heterogeneities present at the surface of the hair, especially via an action that may be termed abrasive, and, as a result, homogenizing the outer surface of the hair.
  • This type of abrasion may be relatively mild and/or short- lasting, so as to avoid damaging the hair, for example during subsequent treatment or mechanical stresses such as styling.
  • the hair may be visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is long-lasting.
  • the hair may be freed o f any deposits present on its surface before the abrasion, and the edges o f the scales of the cuticle may be made more regular. Furthermore, after treatment, products intended for reinforcing certain properties of the hair or for modifying its appearance can penetrate more easily and deeply into the hair thus treated.
  • anhydrous composition means a composition whose water content is less than 1 % and preferably less than 0.5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the total composition. More particularly, the composition does not comprise any water. It should be noted that when water is present in the composition, it is more particularly "bound water” , such as water of crystallization in salts, or traces of water absorbed by the starting materials used in the preparation o f the compositions according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention comprises more than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, o f pumice particles with a mean vo lume diameter of between 100 and 500 ⁇ .
  • Pumice is o f vo lcanic origin. It is formed at temperatures from about 500 to 600° C from lava proj ected into the air, which cools on falling, and whose degassing leads to the formation of bubbles, leading to a low density and high porosity.
  • Pumice is formed from fragments of rhyolite, dacite or andesite. It is considered as a glass since it does not have a crystalline structure.
  • Pumice particles are abrasive so lid particles.
  • they may have a hardness of greater than or equal to that of the hair, especially ranging from 3 to 10 Moh, or even greater than or equal to 4, for example greater than or equal to 5 , in particular ranging from 5 to 5.5 on the Moh scale.
  • the pumice particles have a lower mean vo lume diameter o f between 100 and 500 ⁇ and preferably between 1 05 and 300 ⁇ .
  • the mean vo lume diameter may be determined by using screens or by laser granulometry.
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises pumice particles in a content ranging from 12% to 35 % by weight, especially from 12% to 30% by weight and in particular from 12% to 25 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic compounds chosen from a) fatty substances, b) water- so luble organic so lvents, and a mixture thereof.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is inso luble in water at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; i. e. 1 .0 13 > ⁇ 10 5 Pa), with a weight solubility o f less than 4%, preferably 1 % and even more preferentially 0. 1 % . They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups . In addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic so lvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol or benzene.
  • the fatty substances of the invention are not oxyalkylenated.
  • the fatty substances of the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones, non- neutralized fatty acids and fatty ethers, or mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substances of the invention may be liquid or non- liquid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 .
  • liquid hydrocarbon means a hydrocarbon which is composed solely of atoms of carbon and of hydrogen and which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
  • C 6 -Ci6 lower alkanes examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
  • hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and squalane.
  • liquid hydrocarbon(s) are chosen from volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, and liquid petroleum jelly.
  • liquid fatty alcohol means a non-glycerolated and non-alkoxylated fatty alcohol which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty alcoho ls o f the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcoho ls are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2- hexyldecanol.
  • Octyldodecano l is most particularly preferred.
  • the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond.
  • the fatty alcoho ls o f the invention bear in their structure one or more double bonds .
  • double bonds there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcoho ls may be linear or branched.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • liquid unsaturated fatty alcoho ls o f the invention are chosen from o leyl alcoho l, lino leyl alcoho l, lino lenyl alcoho l and undecylenyl alcoho l.
  • Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
  • liquid fatty ester means an ester that is derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcoho l and that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e . 1 .013 x 10 s Pa) .
  • the esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C i -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • the esters of monoalcohols Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcoho l and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci- C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of non- sugar C4-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon- based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be chosen, for example, from o leates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, lino leates, lino lenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereo f such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleo stearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dio leates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates .
  • esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol may also be used.
  • Oils o f plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters include, for example, triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as the liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyo l® 8 10 , 8 12 and 8 1 8 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
  • triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin such as the liquid triglycerides
  • Liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will preferably be used as esters according to the invention. Isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred.
  • liquid silicone means an organopo lysiloxane that is liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1 .013 x l 0 5 Pa) .
  • the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid po lyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group .
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicones may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group .
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll ' s "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” ( 1968) Academic Press. They may be vo latile or non- vo latile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 12 17 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.
  • C 8 H 17 Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl- pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo- tetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethyl- silyloxy)neopentane;
  • organosilicon compounds such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilyl- pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclo- tetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethyl- silyloxy)neopentane;
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used.
  • silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia - the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm 2 /s;
  • CFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes .
  • examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the fo llowing names :
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023 , SF 1 154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain thio l groups.
  • the non-neutralized liquid fatty acids are preferably unsaturated and/or branched fatty acids . Mention may be made in particular of oleic acid.
  • liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • the fatty substances may be non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • non-liquid preferably means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity o f greater than 2 Pa. s at a temperature of 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s " 1 .
  • non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcoho ls, esters o f fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, non- silicone waxes, silicones, fatty ethers and non-neutralized fatty acids, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.
  • the non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, o f cetyl alcoho l, stearyl alcoho l and a mixture thereo f (cetylstearyl alcohol). As regards the non-liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcoho ls, mention may be made especially o f so lid esters derived from C9 - C26 fatty acids and from C9 - C26 fatty alcoho ls.
  • esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; stearyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; myristyl stearate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; alkyl myristates such as cetyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate; hexyl stearate.
  • esters of C4 - C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C22 alcoho ls and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 - C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • myristyl cetyl or stearyl palmitates
  • alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, and stearyl or myristyl myristate.
  • the (non-silicone) wax(es) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for instance olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax o f blackcurrant sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes of polyethylene or of polyo lefins in general.
  • non-liquid silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention may be in the form o f waxes, resins or gums.
  • the non-liquid silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from po ly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups .
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from po ly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups .
  • the silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are especially polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average mo lecular masses o f between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a so lvent.
  • This so lvent can be chosen from vo latile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
  • Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as :
  • CTFA dimethicono l
  • CFA cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also known as cyclomethicone
  • a po lydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average mo lecular weight o f 500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethy Icy clop entasiloxane;
  • the product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity o f 20 m 2 /s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity o f 5 x 10 "6 m 2 /s.
  • This product preferably comprises 15% o f gum SE 30 and 85% o f an oil SF 96.
  • organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the fo llowing units :
  • R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the ones that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 - C4 lower alkyl group , more particularly methyl.
  • organomodified silicones mention may be made o f polyorganosiloxanes comprising :
  • substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
  • the substituted amine groups are, in particular, C 1 - C4 amino alkyl groups;
  • the non-liquid non-neutralized fatty acids are preferably chosen from linear saturated fatty acids . Mention may be made in particular of lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid.
  • the non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and especially dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
  • the composition o f the invention contains one or more fatty substances that are liquid at ordinary temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i. e. 1 .013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa), optionally combined with one or more fatty substances that are not liquid under the same conditions.
  • the fatty substance does not contain any free carboxylic acid functions COOH.
  • the fatty substance is a plant oil or a liquid hydrocarbon.
  • water-soluble organic solvent means an organic compound that is soluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1.013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa) to a weight concentration of greater than or equal to 4%.
  • Solvents are compounds that are capable of dissolving other substances without chemically modifying them.
  • the organic solvents of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 .
  • the water-soluble organic solvents according to the invention are preferably chosen from monoalcohols, polyols and polyol ethers.
  • the monoalcohols are preferably saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-Cs monoalcohols. They are preferably chosen from C 1 -C4 alkanols such as ethanol or isopropanol, or alcohols with an aromatic nucleus such as benzyl alcohol.
  • the polyols preferably comprise from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups per molecule. They may be linear or branched and preferably comprise from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Mention may be made more particularly of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, glycerol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
  • the polyol ethers are preferably the C2-C20 polyols described previously, etherified with one or more C1-C10 alkyl or C6-C30 aryl or C 7 -C 3 oaralkyl radicals. Mention may be made more particularly of ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether or monoethyl ether, dipropylene or tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether or dimethyl ether, and polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether or dimethyl ether.
  • the organic so lvents that are preferred in the invention are polyo ls and in particular propylene glycol and glycerol.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise only one type o f organic compound, i.e . one or more fatty substances or one or more water- so luble organic so lvents.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise several organic compounds, at least one of which belonging to each of the two families of organic compounds, i. e. at least one fatty substance and at least one water-so luble organic so lvent.
  • the total concentration of organic compounds chosen from fatty substances and/or water-so luble so lvents may range from 50% to 89.9%, preferably from 55 % to 85 % and even more preferentially from 60% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention may be in the form o f a dispersion.
  • the composition according to the invention may be in the form o f a paste or a cream, which has the advantage of homogeneously coating the pumice particles.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises one or more surfactants, and preferably anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic surfactants.
  • Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se (see especially in this regard the "Handbook of Surfactants” by M .R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1 991 , pp .
  • alcoho ls alpha-dio ls and alkylphenols
  • these compounds being po lyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and containing a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 1 8 carbon atoms, the number o f ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging especially from 2 to 50.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives o f secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, which are optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, the said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group .
  • Mention may be made in particular o f (C8 -C2o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8 -C2o)alkylamido(C3 -
  • R a represents a C 10 - C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
  • R b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • X * represents the -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ ' , -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ ' group, or a hydrogen atom
  • Y * represents -COOH, -COOZ ' , the group -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 H or -CH 2 -CHOH-S0 3 Z ' ,
  • Z ' represents an ion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine.
  • R a ' represents a C i o-C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a ' -
  • COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 1 7 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 1 7 group .
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants it is preferred to use (C8- C20 alkyl)betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8 - C20 alkyl)amido(C3-Cs alkyl)betaines such as cocoylamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) selected from cocoylamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups . These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the fo llowing groups : C0 2 H, C0 2 " , S O3H, S0 3 " , O S O3H, O S O3 “ , H2PO3 , HPO3 “ , P0 3 2 " , H2PO2 , HPCV,
  • anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made o f alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-o lefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfo succinates, alkylether sulfo succinates, alkylamide sulfo succinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N- acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxy
  • These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts o f C6 - C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxylic acids can be selected from C6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside- citrates, C6 - C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6 - C24 alkyl poly glycoside-sulfo succinates .
  • the anionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, the ammonium salts, the amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or the alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.
  • Examples o f aminoalcoho l salts that may especially be mentioned include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1 -propanol salts, 2- amino-2-methyl- 1 ,3 -propanedio l salts and tris(hydroxy- methyl)aminomethane salts .
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants that may be present are preferably mild anionic surfactants, i. e. anionic surfactants without a sulfate function.
  • mild anionic surfactants mention may be made especially of the following compounds and salts thereof, and also mixtures thereof: polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ethers, polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl aryl ethers, polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkylamido ethers, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters.
  • polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl ethers polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkyl aryl ethers
  • polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acid alkylamido ethers in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D-galactoside uronic acids, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates and alkylpolyg
  • the composition according to the invention does not contain any anionic detergent surfactant of sulfonate type (alkyl sulfate, alkylether sulfate or alkylamidoether sulfate).
  • anionic detergent surfactant of alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate type/sum o f the amphoteric, zwitterionic, mild anionic and nonionic surfactants is preferably less than or equal to 1 , more particularly less than or equal to 0.75 and even more preferentially less than or equal to 0.5.
  • cationic surfactant means a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.
  • the cationic surfactants of the invention do not comprise any anionic groups as described above.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are preferably selected from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally po lyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereo f, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty amines generally comprise at least one C 8 - C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • fatty amines that may be used according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include stearylamidopropyldimethylamine and distearylamine.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include :
  • the groups Rs to Rn which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn denoting a group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms .
  • the aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens .
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C 1 - C30 alkyl, C 1 - C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6 ), C 1 - C30 alkylamide, (C i 2 - C22)alkylamido- (C2-C 6 )alkyl, (C i 2 - C22)alkyl acetate and C 1 - C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X " is an anion chosen from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C 6 )alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates and alkyl-arylsulfonates .
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (III) those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethyl-ammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salt sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk.
  • tetraalkylammonium salts for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltri
  • R12 represents an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for examp le from tallow fatty acids
  • Ri 3 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 - C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R14 represents a C 1 - C4 alkyl group
  • R1 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C4 alkyl group
  • X " is an anion selected from the group consisting o f halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkylsulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups each preferably comprise from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Ri2 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkyl or alkenyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R14 preferably denotes a methyl group
  • R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Ri 6 denotes an alkyl radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • R17 is selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R 16a )(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH 2 ) 3
  • Riea, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ri8, Ri , R20 and R21 which are identical or different, are selected from hydrogen and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X " is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Compounds of this kind are, for example, Finquat CT-P, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, available from the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),
  • R22 is selected from Ci-C 6 alkyl groups and Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
  • R23 is selected from:
  • R25 is selected from:
  • R24, R26 and R28 which may be identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6;
  • y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10;
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X " is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion
  • the alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it may be long and may contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 2 5 is an R 2 hydrocarbon-based group , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms .
  • R 24 , R26 and R 2 8 which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C 2 1 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C n -C 2 1 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 , and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X " is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. It is possible, however, to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate or tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion which is compatible with ester-functional ammonium.
  • the anion X " is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • x and y are equal to 1 ;
  • z is equal to 0 or 1 ;
  • r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R23 is selected from:
  • R25 is selected from:
  • R 2 4, R26 and R 2 8, which are identical or different, are selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 hydrocarbon- based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 13 -C 17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • hydrocarbon-based groups are advantageously linear.
  • acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, of triisopropanolamine, of alkyldiethanolamine or of alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally alkoxylated, with Cio-C 3 o fatty acids or with mixtures of Cio-C 3 o fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) halide, a dialkyl (preferably methyl or ethyl) sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture o f quaternary ammonium salts of mono-, di- and triesters with a weight majority o f diester salts.
  • ammonium salts that can be used include, for example, the mixture containing 15 % to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, 45 % to 60% of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate and 1 5 % to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methyl sulfate, the acyl groups having from 14 to 1 8 carbon atoms and originating from palm oil, which is optionally partially hydrogenated.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may particularly preferably be used according to the invention are the compounds o f formula (III) or of formula (VI) .
  • the surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in concentrations ranging from 0. 1 % to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 25 % by weight, and more particularly from 1 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition contains one or more nonionic and/or cationic surfactants .
  • composition according to the present invention may preferably comprise one or more oil thickeners .
  • the thickener may be chosen from po lymeric thickeners, non- polymeric agents, mineral thickeners and organic thickeners, and mixtures thereof.
  • thickener means a compound that modifies the rheo logy of the medium into which it is incorporated.
  • the oily-medium thickener may be chosen from:
  • - oil-gelling polymers for instance triblock polymers or star polymers resulting from the po lymerization or copolymerization o f at least one monomer containing an ethylenic group, for instance the polymers so ld under the name Kraton;
  • 100 000 comprising a) a polymer backbone containing hydrocarbon- based repeating units containing at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one pendent fatty chain and/or at least one terminal fatty chain, which are optionally functionalized, containing from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being linked to these hydrocarbon- based units, as described in patent applications WO-A-02/056 847 and WO-A-02/47619, the content of which is incorporated by way o f reference; in particular, polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5 783 657, the content of which is incorporated by way o f reference;
  • the thickener may be an organic gelling agent, i. e. an agent comprising at least one organic compound.
  • the organogelling agents may be chosen from those described in patent application WO-A- 03/ 105 788 , the content of which is incorporated by way of reference .
  • the polymeric thickener is an amorphous polymer formed by po lymerization of an olefin.
  • the o lefin may especially be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer.
  • olefins examples include ethylenic carbide monomers especially containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations, containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene or isoprene.
  • the po lymeric thickener is capable of thickening or gelling the composition.
  • amorphous polymer means a polymer that does not have a crystalline form.
  • the po lymeric thickener may also be film-forming.
  • the polymeric thickener may especially be a diblock, triblo ck, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof.
  • the polymeric thickener is an amorphous blo ck copolymer of styrene and of olefin.
  • the polymeric thickener is preferably hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.
  • the po lymeric thickener is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer, containing styrene blocks and ethylene/C 3 - C 4 alkylene blocks .
  • Diblock copolymers preferably hydrogenated, that may be mentioned include styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymers and styrene- ethylene/butadiene copolymers .
  • the diblock polymers are especially so ld under the name Kraton® G 1 701 E by the company Kraton Polymers.
  • Triblock copolymers which are preferably hydrogenated, that may be mentioned include styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene- isoprene-styrene copolymers and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers .
  • Triblo ck polymers are especially sold under the names Kraton® G 1650, Kraton® G 1652 , Kraton® D l l O l , Kraton® D 1 102 and Kraton® D 1 160 by the company Kraton Polymers.
  • a mixture of hydrogenated styrene-butadiene/ethylene-styrene triblo ck copolymer and of hydrogenated ethylene-propylene-styrene star polymer may also be used, such a mixture especially being in isododecane .
  • Such mixtures are sold, for example, by the company Penreco under the trade names Versagel® M5960 and Versagel® M5670.
  • a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a styrene-ethylene/propylene diblo ck copolymer, is advantageously used as polymeric thickener.
  • organophilic clays are clays modified with chemical compounds that make the clay able to swell.
  • Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Mineralo gie des argiles "[Mineralogy of Clays] , S . Caillere, S . Henin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson", the teaching of which is included herein by way o f reference.
  • Clays are silicates containing a cation that may be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereo f.
  • Examples o f such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmoriUonites, hectorites, bentonites , beidellites and saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite and chlorite families .
  • Clays may be o f natural or synthetic origin. Clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with keratin materials are preferably used.
  • the organophilic clay may be chosen from optionally modified montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepio lite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
  • These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • Organophilic clays that may be mentioned include quaternium- 1 8 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3 , Bentone 38 and Bentone 38V by the company Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United Catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those so ld under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium- 1 8/benzalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.
  • the fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature hydro lysis o f a vo latile silicon compound in an oxhydric flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas having a large number o f silano l groups at their surface .
  • hydrophilic silicas are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®, Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by the company Degussa, and Cab-O- Sil HS-5®, Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM- 130®, Cab-O-Sil MS- 55® and Cab-O-Sil M-5® by the company Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be :
  • silica thus treated are known as "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) . They are so ld, for example, under the references Aerosil R8 12® by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot. - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence o f polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane .
  • Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th Edition, 1995) . They are so ld, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab- O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
  • the fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
  • a hydrophilic fumed silica is preferably used as mineral thickener.
  • the mineral thickeners are combined with carbonates, for instance propylene carbonate.
  • the thickener is preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.5 % to 15 % by weight, preferably ranging from 1 % to 10% by weight and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsion.
  • composition according to the invention may moreover comprise additives that are conventional in the field, for instance those chosen from the non-exhaustive list such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestrants, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, basifying agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct dyes or oxidation dyes, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, vitamins, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents and hair-lo ss counteractants .
  • additives that are conventional in the field, for instance those chosen from the non-exhaustive list such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestrants, softeners, antifoams, moisturizers, emollients, basifying agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct dyes or oxidation dyes, fragrances, peptizers, preserving agents, vitamins, antidandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents and hair-lo ss
  • the adjuvants mentioned above are generally present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.01 % and 20%> by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups are particularly appreciated.
  • silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups means any silicone comprising one or more quaternary ammonium groups. These quaternary ammonium groups may be attached in the alpha or omega position or in the form of side groups. They may be attached directly to the polysiloxane backbone or may be borne by hydrocarbon-based chains.
  • silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups of the present invention are chosen, for example, from the compounds corresponding to the following general formulae:
  • - Ri which may be identical or different, represents a C 1 -C30 linear or branched alkyl group or a phenyl group
  • R 2 which may be identical or different, represents -C c H 2c -0- (C 2 H 4 0) a -(C 3 H 6 0) b -(P0 3 H) d -R 5 or -C c H 2c -0-(C 4 H 8 0) a -(P0 3 H) d -R 5 ;
  • R 5 which may be identical or different, is chosen from the groups of the following formula:
  • radicals Rs independently represent a linear or branched d- C 22 alkyl or C 2 -C 22 alkenyl radical, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or represent a group ChH 2 ZCORc>;
  • R 6 , R7 and R 9 which may be identical or different, represent linear or branched Ci-C 22 alkyl or C 2 -C 22 alkenyl radicals, optionally bearing one or more OH groups, or R 7 may form with part of Rs a heterocycle (ring containing at least one heteroatom, for instance N, O or P), the heterocycle especially being an imidazoline.
  • R 6 and R 7 denote a Ci-C 6 alkyl radical and more particularly methyl
  • R 9 preferably denotes a radical chosen from Cs-Cis alkyl and Cs-Cis alkenyl and especially a cocoyl radical.
  • n ranges from 0 to 20;
  • n ranges from 0 to 500;
  • p ranges from 1 to 50;
  • q ranges from 0 to 20;
  • r ranges from 1 to 20;
  • b ranges from 0 to 50;
  • c ranges from 0 to 4.
  • d denotes 0 or 1
  • f ranges from 0 to 4.
  • g ranges from 0 to 2, and is preferably equal to 1;
  • h ranges from 1 to 4, and is preferably equal to 3;
  • Z represents an oxygen atom or NH;
  • a " represents a monovalent organic or inorganic anion such as a halide (e .g. chloride, bromide), a sulfate or a carboxylate (e. g. acetate, lactate, citrate) .
  • Quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (VIII) or (IX) are preferably used.
  • c is equal to 0;
  • d denotes 0;
  • a is equal to zero
  • b is equal to 1 ;
  • n ranges from 0 to 100;
  • f 3 ;
  • g is 1 ;
  • R 6 and R 7 denote a methyl group
  • silicones of the invention examples include those so ld by the company Go ldschmidt under the names Abil Quat 3272, Abil B 9905 , Abil Quat 3474 and Abil K 3270, by the company Lipo France under the names Silquat Q- 100, Silquat Q-200 WS , Silquat AX, Silquat AC , Silquat AD and Silquat AM, all manufactured by the company Siltech, by the company OSI under the names Magnaso ft Exhaust and Silsoft C-880, and by the company UCIB under the names Pecosil 14-PQ and Pecosil 36-PQ (manufactured by Phoenix Chemical) .
  • the silicone containing quaternary ammonium groups is of formula (IX) .
  • the quaternary silicone is the compound referenced in the CTFA (INCI name) under the name Quaternium-80.
  • the silicones containing quaternary ammonium groups used in accordance with the invention may be in the form o f aqueous so lutions, or optionally in the form o f dispersions or emulsions in water.
  • the content of silicones containing quaternary ammonium in the composition may range from 0.00 1 % to 1 0% by weight, preferably from 0.005 % to 5 % by weight and even more preferentially from 0.01 % to 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be in various galenical forms, such as a lotion, gel, cream, a wax or a paste.
  • composition according to the invention is in liquid form, for instance a lotion, it is in the form o f a dispersion.
  • the composition may be conditioned in any type o f container with or without an applicator.
  • the container may contain a roller or a member making it possible especially to homogenize the composition before its application to the keratin fibres.
  • the container containing the composition may have a capacity o f greater than or equal to 15 ml, especially greater than or equal to 50 ml, or even 100 ml, especially greater than or equal to 150 ml, for example between 15 ml and 500 ml.
  • the composition may be applied onto any type of support, for instance woven or nonwoven supports, a paper or a flexible polymer.
  • the composition may impregnate a wipe.
  • the composition may be introduced into a stream o f carrier fluid, and may be sprayed onto the hair.
  • the composition may be contained in a reservoir of a comb or a brush having, for example, orifices at the base of the teeth or bristles, for delivering the product and applying it to the hair, such as those described in document WO 2009/ 156 668.
  • composition according to the invention as defined above may be in its native form or it may result from the mixing, before use, of a first composition comprising pumice particles with amine vo lume diameter of between 100 and 500 ⁇ ; and o f a second composition comprising one or more organic compounds chosen from a) fatty substances and b) water-so luble organic solvents, and a mixture thereo f, and one or more surfactants .
  • the invention also relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, such as human keratin fibres and especially the hair, which consists in applying to the wet or dry keratin fibres a composition as defined previously, and then in optionally performing rinsing.
  • the treatment for example abrasion, of the keratin fibres, and especially the hair, may take place immediately after application o f the composition to the hair, for example in a period of less than one hour, especially less than 30 minutes, or even 10 minutes, after application of the composition to the hair.
  • Rinsing of the fibres, when it is performed, may take place rapidly after treatment, for example abrasion, o f the fibres .
  • the time between the application of the composition and rinsing may be, for example, less than 4 hours, especially less than 1 hour, for example less than 20 minutes. In general, this rinsing is performed immediately after the treatment.
  • the step o f treatment, for example abrasion, of the hair may be performed by rubbing the hair with bare hands or by placing at least one surface between the hands and the hair charged with composition, for example a wipe or towel, a glove or the like.
  • the treatment may be performed other than by using a comb or a brush.
  • the treatment, for example the abrasion, of the hair may be performed, for example, using at least one surface placed in motion, in vibration or in rotation, especially by a mechanized system.
  • the treatment using the composition may be performed, for example, by hand, lock by lock, in two movements : a first "tangential" movement, i. e. substantially along the hair, for example from the root to the end, and a second "shear" motion, i.e. substantially orthogonal to the hair, in a transverse direction thereto .
  • the two movements may be repeated several times, for example at least five times, for example ten times.
  • only one o f the abovementioned movements may be performed and optionally repeated several times .
  • the duration of treatment, for example abrasion, using the composition in accordance with the invention may depend, for example, on the desired intensity o f the abrasion and on the condition of the keratin fibre, especially of the hair.
  • the process according to the invention may comprise two treatment steps, for example abrasion, using two compositions applied successively, each comprising pumice particles in accordance with the invention, the mean vo lume diameters or the hardness of the pumice particles in accordance with the invention of the two compositions being different.
  • a single bottle may contain the two compositions conditioned separately, or two different bottles may each contain a composition.
  • Another conditioning mode may consist of a bottle containing a base composition free o f pumice particles in accordance with the invention, which are conditioned separately, for example in at least two separate compartments, as a function of their particle size or their hardness.
  • the user selects before the treatment, for example abrasion, the pumice particles in accordance with the invention to be mixed with the base composition to form the first composition, the mixing being performed by the user or in the bottle .
  • the user may perform a second treatment, for example a second abrasion, this time by mixing other pumice particles in accordance with the invention with the base composition to form the second composition. Rinsing may be performed between and/or after the two treatments.
  • the treatment process may be performed after a step of characterization o f the keratin fibre, and especially the hair, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under a magnifying device or by instrumental means, for example by recording the sound produced by the movement of a comb through the hair using a sonometer or by optically determining the gloss of the hair.
  • the characterization of the fibre may also invo lve a chemical reagent applied onto a sample o f the fibre.
  • the process according to the invention may include the preliminary step consisting in rinsing the keratin fibres before applying the composition.
  • the process according to the invention may include the step consisting in combing and/or rinsing the keratin fibres after application o f the composition.
  • the rinsing may be performed with water.
  • composition in particular allows the removal of the composition according to the invention by emulsification.
  • the process according to the invention may also include the step consisting in heating the keratin fibres before or during the placing in contact with the composition, for example to a temperature of between 40° C and 250°C and especially between 60°C and 220°C . This may especially increase the efficacy of the treatment.
  • the keratin fibres may also be heated after the treatment so as to shape them, for example by blow-drying.
  • the heating of the hair may be performed, for example, using an iron, a liquid water/steam mixture or using a heating hood.
  • the keratin fibres may be totally or partially dried.
  • the process according to the invention may also include the step consisting in applying, for example before or after treatment using the compositions according to the invention, another treatment product to the keratin fibres.
  • the treatment products may be, for example, a cosmetic product, especially a conditioner, a permanent- waving product, a relaxing product or a product for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres, especially the hair.
  • the treatment product may be chosen, for example, from the fo llowing products, this list not being limiting :
  • products for modifying the mechanical properties of the hair especially comprising a reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, cysteine, sulfites, trihydroxymethyl phosphine, or an oxidizing agent, such as H 2 0 2 , persulfates or an alkali metal hydroxide at very high pH,
  • a reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid and derivatives thereof, cysteine, sulfites, trihydroxymethyl phosphine
  • an oxidizing agent such as H 2 0 2 , persulfates or an alkali metal hydroxide at very high pH
  • products for restructuring the interior of the hair comprising, for example, an ionene, a protein, a hydroxy acid or a reactive compound, especially a formaldehyde generator, a silane and
  • the treatment product may be applied before the treatment, for example o f abrasion type, and may contribute towards protecting the hair during the said treatment, in order especially to avoid excessive abrasion.
  • the treatment product is preferably applied after application o f the composition according to the invention.
  • the process in accordance with the invention may include an additional step that consists in subj ecting the treated hair to a post-treatment, the post-treatment being chosen from the application of a conditioning agent, a permanent-waving product, a relaxer and a product for dyeing or bleaching the hair.
  • a subj ect of the invention is also, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising : - a cosmetic composition A comprising pumice particles as defined above, and
  • composition B comprising one or more organic compounds chosen from a) fatty substances and b) water-soluble organic solvents, and a mixture thereo f, and one or more surfactants.
  • a subj ect of the invention is also, independently or in combination with the foregoing, a kit for treating keratin fibres and especially the hair, comprising :
  • compositions or a set of compositions according to the invention as defined above, and
  • a support comprising instructions for the use of the composition on the keratin fibres, especially the hair, for example in order to perform abrasion o f the hair.
  • the kit may also comprise a composition for the post-treatment of keratin fibres and especially the hair.
  • the post-treatment composition may comprise one or more of the fo llowing cosmetic active agents : a conditioner, a permanent-waving product, a relaxer or a product for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibres and especially the hair.
  • the post-treatment product may be chosen, for example, from those described above.
  • the invention relates to the use of the composition as defined above for smoothing keratin fibres, especially the hair.
  • composition according to the invention shows very good working qualities (ease of application, rinseability, quality o f the feel after rinsing) .
  • Shampoo applied after rinsing out the composition of the invention lathers more easily (more abundant lather) and more quickly.
  • composition o f the invention makes it possible to reduce the body and to control the vo lume of the hair (absence o f frizziness) .
  • the effects are all the more noteworthy when the hair is sensitized and thick.
  • the study is performed on a panel o f 20 women: 10 with natural long hair and 10 women with sensitized long hair.
  • composition according to the invention shows very good working qualities (ease of application, rinseability, quality o f the feel after rinsing) .
  • Shampoo applied after rinsing out the composition of the invention lathers more easily (more abundant lather) and more quickly.
  • composition o f the invention makes it possible to reduce the body and to control the vo lume of the hair (absence of frizziness) .
  • the effects are all the more noteworthy when the hair is sensitized and thick.

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Abstract

L'invention se rapporte à une composition cosmétique anhydre comprenant : - plus de 10% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, de particules de pierre ponce d'un diamètre volumique moyen situé entre 100 et 500 μm, - un ou plusieurs composés organiques choisis parmi a) des substances grasses, b) des solvants organiques hydrosolubles, et un mélange desdits solvants organiques, et - un ou plusieurs tensioactifs. L'invention se rapporte aussi à un procédé de traitement des fibres de kératine utilisant ladite composition, à des kits contenant ladite composition et à leur utilisation.
PCT/EP2011/055654 2010-04-13 2011-04-12 Composition cosmétique comprenant des particules de pierre ponce Ceased WO2011128308A1 (fr)

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FR1052816 2010-04-13
FR1052816A FR2958539B1 (fr) 2010-04-13 2010-04-13 Composition cosmetique comprenant des particules de pierre ponce
US32829610P 2010-04-27 2010-04-27
US61/328,296 2010-04-27

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Cited By (4)

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FR2976489A1 (fr) * 2011-06-20 2012-12-21 Oreal Composition et procede de traitement utilisant des particules de pierre ponce et une cire vegetale
US9717674B1 (en) 2016-04-06 2017-08-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising biodegradable abrasive particles
US10806692B2 (en) 2016-10-03 2020-10-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising color stable abrasive particles
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2988605B1 (fr) * 2012-03-27 2014-12-19 Oreal Procede de deformation et composition comprenant au moins 40% en poids de corps gras non silicones et au moins un agent epaississant mineral

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Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2976489A1 (fr) * 2011-06-20 2012-12-21 Oreal Composition et procede de traitement utilisant des particules de pierre ponce et une cire vegetale
US9717674B1 (en) 2016-04-06 2017-08-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising biodegradable abrasive particles
US10806692B2 (en) 2016-10-03 2020-10-20 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising color stable abrasive particles
US11166905B2 (en) 2016-10-03 2021-11-09 The Procter & Gamble Company Skin cleansing compositions comprising color stable abrasive particles
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US12214065B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2025-02-04 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US12285508B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2025-04-29 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof

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