WO2011141646A1 - Anthropomorphic mannequin - Google Patents

Abstract

Anthropomorphic mannequin comprising a chest (A) characterized in that it comprises: means for varying volume of predetermined zones of the mannequin; means (11, 12) for controlling the means for varying volume, the control means being configured so as to independently control the means for varying volume of at least two predetermined zones.

Description

 Anthropomorphic Manikin

 The present invention relates to a dummy equipped with a size modification device intended more particularly for sewing as well as its adaptation method controlled by a specific software.

 For manikins, to date, those designed by sewing pieces of fabric like coarse cloth, directly or by means of a thin layer of cotton, on the surface of a form made of cardboard and likewise, those whose interior is obtained from a mixture of plaster and textiles and the outside of which is made of fabric and obtained by wrapping a plastic foam on the outside, the same of which the outside may be made of paper, those whose exterior is fabric and obtained by winding a soft plastic foam outside a manikin plastic or the like. However, as these manikins are made to standard human body measurements or to be a little smaller than standard measurements, it is almost impossible, even with a large number of model models, to be in complete agreement with 1 user.

 Thus it is necessary that a mannequin is revised by means of cotton padding or the like, to conform to the silhouette of the user. A manikin was also studied so that it could be adjusted according to the silhouette, using several cushions. However, in addition to the need for a wide variety of cushions, it is very difficult, in this case, to adjust the manikin.

Document FR-A-548772 discloses a dummy of the bust type whose volume can be modified entirely by air injection. The internal volume of the bust is completely filled with air and the volume of air determines a level of inflation of the bust. The document FR-A-2515937 relating to a personalized dummy allows the exact reproduction of a bust of a person by the application of a tubular jersey stretched and molded on the bust of a natural person, which after drying, can be assembled into a "dummy dummy" to the actual measurements. This device characterized by the hardening of plaster band on the body of the person requires to be ίεηάμ along the back of the person generating several constraints: the obligation of the physical presence of the person to proceed with his measurement, the inconvenience caused by the operation of molding and cutting on his body strips of plaster. This process is binding and slow. It also poses problems of conservation and storage and the risk of injury. It does not respond to a logic of technical, temporal and financial optimization of the tailoring process.

The application for a utility certificate No. 7538191 published under the number FR 2384465A relating to an adjustable dummy and method of manufacture consists of a manikin conforming to the upper part of the human body, characterized in that it consists of a a number of curved-surface pieces having appropriate shapes according to the various parts of the upper body, each curved-surface piece being made of a flexible and moderately plastic net, to enable said net to retain the shape to which it has been deformed , and a covering covering said net. This manikin poses the problem of an adjustable modeling and adjustable in 3D according to variable gradation data. It offers only one possibility of adjusted size. It lacks ease of use and technique. It does not offer a tool for recording and using this volumetric data. It poses a problem of economic efficiency insofar as it offers only a single use of the manikin.

 Patent No. US6438853 B1 relating to a set of manikins with particular measurements and shapes manufactured according to a pre-established database on a study of the morphologies of US Army soldiers poses the problem also of the storage and the cost of this method. range. It does not bring a global and unique response to a multi-problem, namely the diversity of morphologies of the human body to be transcribed on one and the same object in order to optimize temporally and qualitatively a production of clothing.

 Therefore, these dummies cited in the state of the art all represent an external form of the body according to fixed standards or at most non-evolutive to the real. They are not infinitely adjustable. They are more arcana used to support the work of the technicians but never real busts anatomically homothetic to the human body of the woman, the man and the child.

 They also do not include any component of a technical, scientific or computer nature that offers 3D rendering and simultaneously realizes either the diversity of human anatomies or the standard measurement tables used in gradation.

Above all, they bring no new technical solution as to the ease of realization of a modeling in 3D and in real manikin. They offer no technical solution to the problem of gradation by allowing only one option, it is always a size by dummy but one and the same mannequin can not have several sizes. Finally, they do not allow a recording of volumetric data on a computer database and an interaction between the computer tool and the manikin.

 The invention overcomes at least some of the aforementioned drawbacks.

 This is why the object of the invention is to provide an anthropomorphic manikin whose sizes of the bust and possibly members as well as the volumes of predetermined parts can be modified.

 More specifically, the invention relates to an anthropomorphic manikin comprising a bust characterized in that it comprises:

 means for varying the volume of predetermined areas of the manikin,

 control means of the volume variation means.

 According to an advantageous aspect, the control means are configured to independently control the means for varying the volume of at least two predetermined zones. While the state of the art offers, at best, an overall size change of the bust of a manikin, the invention offers a precise and completely flexible adaptation. For this purpose, it comprises means for varying the volume at several predetermined zones. Thus, a separate adjustment is possible at different locations of the manikin.

Moreover, control means control each volume variation means and, advantageously, independently for at least some of them. Thus, the manikin can be exactly shaped to the image of the person. Each of its measurements can be taken into account. Advantageously, the volume variation means being located and spaced apart, they are small in size and only require low control powers. For example, in case of volume variation by air injection, the bags used are reduced and inflate and deflate quickly and with low pressures and / or volume of air.

 The shaping of the manikin is therefore very dynamic.

 Optional additional features are briefly indicated below:

 the control means are configured to independently control the means for varying the volume of each of the predetermined zones.

 the predetermined zones are spaced according to the height of the manikin.

 at least one of the predetermined zones covers the entire periphery of a section of the transverse dummy at its height.

 the means for varying the volume of said at least one of the predetermined zones comprise a pocket of variable and continuous volume surrounding said at least one of the predetermined zones.

 the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means of predetermined zones which are deformable soft preformed pouches connected to a pneumatic assembly capable of delivering compressed air allowing them to be compressed. growth or decay.

 said preformed pockets are protected by a protective coating against drilling by needles.

 - the protective coating is metallic.

the protective coating is of the chainmail type. - The chain mail is of the flat mesh type partially overlapping.

 the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means of predetermined zones which are deformable soft preformed pouches connected to an electrical assembly capable of delivering a thermal intensity enabling their growth or decay. .

 the control means comprise a central unit.

 the central unit comprises a power variator for the means for varying the volume of each of the predetermined zones, the power variation means being independent of one another.

 the predetermined zones comprise at least two zones among: a choker zone, a chest circumference zone, a chest zone, a waist circumference zone, a small hip circumference zone, a hip area, a shoulder length area, a middle section in front and back, a biceps turn zone, a wrist circumference area, a thigh turn zone, a calf circumference area, ankle turn zone.

 it comprises means of elongation of the bust.

 it comprises at least one member among an arm and a leg and means for elongating said at least one limb.

 - The elongation means comprise at least one hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder.

 - It includes a foot frame adjustable in height.

 - The foot frame comprises a control cylinder relative to the ground.

 it has a computerized control interface.

The subject of the invention is therefore an anthropomorphous manikin preferably composed of a bust, an arm and a leg comprising means for elongation of the bust, the arm and / or the leg, expansion means in volume of predetermined areas, and a central control unit of the elongation means and expansion means.

 According to a preferred embodiment, the manikin according to the invention is an anthropomorphous manikin with continuous and controlled growth and decay. The manikin can be mounted on a pedestal and is an assembly of at least three sections defined in a bust, an arm and a leg composed of defined zones subject to the expansion of the material which composes them in this place, in volume ( depth, length, width). Linked to software, the manikin grows and decreases according to a table of measurements validated by the instructor from a computerized terminal.

 Advantageously, the density variability of the dummy by means of a composite material with continuous and controlled deformation offers the possibility of modeling in 3D imaging and simultaneous real representation by means of a uniform gradation not only in an interstitial context. -company and the possibility of a free gradation with a view of making semi and made-to-measure as is commonly practiced in haute couture but also in other areas of application.

 The dummy can be composed of a rigid structure made of light aluminum or hollow rigid plastic and covered in certain places (areas subject to expansion) of deformable pockets computer-linked to the central unit and the software for their deformation. These pouches are for example fixed according to human anatomy to reproduce the growth and decay of the muscles of the human body.

The deformable zones are optionally protected by a coat type chainmail avoiding any risk of drilling. The chain mail having the known property of adapting to different sizes is sufficient because of its fine mesh to stop needlesticks and protect the envelope covering the areas subject to deformation.

 A latex skin or equivalent synthetic material advantageously covers the whole in order to maintain and ensure cohesion to the entire manikin.

 In the event of wear, perforation or degradation of the internal pockets fixed on the inner arcane of the bust, provision can be made for a system for replacing the pockets by an accessibility and replacement mechanism, or partially by replacing the material which composes them. , total by the establishment of one or more new pockets.

 Advantageously, the structure of the bust is made of lightweight material, non-deformable type aluminum or hollow rigid plastic.

 The manikin can be covered in any point of a flexible and elastic material imitating the human texture namely latex, silicone or polyurethane (non-erodible / stabilized) or durable elastomer to allow the continuous and controlled deformation of said material.

 The manikin optionally further comprises a table interface adapted to be displayed on the instructor terminal to provide a means for entering and storing the digital data. It comprises a database storage module, a database management module, a structural analysis processing module, a virtual modification means module corresponding to real means.

 The grading computer system may include means for automatically generating gradation rules from a standard or free measurement scale.

The measurements are for example either: - those corresponding to measurements made in gradation in ready-to-wear clothing (ie varying from 34/36 to 46/48 or up to 54 for the large-size market) according to the standard measurement table defined by the relevant and effective bodies.

 - or those of the company having its own parameterized measuring table.

 - to be at the exact measurements of a person in a logic of tailor-made.

 The objects, objects and features of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description which follows which relates to preferred embodiments and which is made with reference to the drawings in which:

 Figure 1 shows the mannequin seen from the front and its 3 sections A, B and C

 Figure 2 shows the mannequin in front section cut into its different parts connected by jacks.

 FIG. 3 represents the mannequin in front section including areas subject to expansion

 Figure 4 shows the mannequin in profile section including areas subject to expansion.

 Figure 5 shows the mannequin in back section including areas subject to expansion.

 Figure 6 shows the system in section with the feed points of different areas prone to expansion.

 FIG. 7 represents the areas subject to expansion protected by a mesh coat (flat mesh).

Referring to Figure 1, the manikin is here composed of a skeleton / rigid frame representing a bust (A), an arm (B) and a leg (C). The bust, the arm and the leg can be obtained by sculpture or molding in a material plastic type or rigid aluminum. These fixed and variable elements have specific sections corresponding to previously defined zones where the material that composes them expands in volume (depth, length, width). On the skeleton, points of attachment are practiced in places where the previously mentioned areas can undergo deformation. On these points of attachment are attached electrical cables that are connected to the deformation zones and allow their expansion via a software that remote control.

 The dummy as a whole (bust / arm / leg) is mounted and articulated on an adjustable tubular height structure carrier attached to a foot frame. It is fixed on a foot frame (1) adjustable in height by a screw clamping system (2) but can also be removed / unscrewed from this frame at the crotch for garment manufacturing needs.

 According to Figure 2, the manikin is represented in its different parts which constitute its internal skeleton. The skeletal armatures constituting the bust (A), arm (B) and leg (C) sections are molded of hollow rigid plastic or hollow rigid type aluminum materials.

 The arm is connected in its upper part to the bust by means of a multidirectional kneecap (6) allowing its manual swing backwards and forwards but also from top to bottom.

An upper arm portion and a lower arm portion are connected to each other by a hinge (7). The position of the axes of the bent joint is such that when the lower arm portion is turned to the folded position, foreign matter constituting the outer coating of the manikin is prevented from being sandwiched and deformed between the arm portions in a location in front of the elbow joint. It is the same for areas subject to volumetric deformation.

 Hydraulic type cylinders at different levels allow a growth / decay measured according to the desired size and adjustable by the software.

 The bust is provided with a housing (D) where a computer unit (11) can be placed comprising a control interface (12) that can control on the one hand the hydraulic cylinders (1,3,8,9) allowing the lengthening or narrowing of the limbs and the position of the manikin relative to the ground.

 The cylinder (8) allows the elongation at the forearm between the wrist and the elbow.

 The jack (3) allows the lengthening of the bust at the waist. It is attached between two transverse plates (4,5) located on the upper surface of the lower part of the manikin and one located inside the upper part of the bust also representing the base of the box.

 The cylinder (9) is located at the level of the leg of the manikin, between the thigh and the knee and allows the elongation thereof.

 The cylinder (1) allows the positioning of the manikin relative to the ground.

The arm is articulated at the shoulder by a multidirectional ball joint system (6). The articulation of the elbow (7a) is effected by means of a fastener fitting the upper part of the arm and the lower part fixed by means of a screw allowing the articulation between the two parts. These two joints are manual and help to facilitate the handling of the member during the making of clothing. It will be the same for the articulation of the leg located below the knee (7b).

 According to Figures 3, 4 and 5, the manikin is shown front, back and side. It is provided with a fixed armature representing a body with minimum measurements (corresponding to a size 34) cut into sections of different distinct specific zones, advantageously spaced according to the height of the manikin and subject to deformation, for example:

- a bust (A) cut into 8 zones: "neck (13), chest (14), chest (15), waist (16), small hips (17), hip circumference (18), shoulder length (19), middle front and back (20),

 an arm (B) cut into different specific zones, namely: length of arm (8), biceps (21), wrist (22),

 - a leg (C) cut into different specific areas namely leg length (9), thigh (23), calf (24), ankle (25).

 The various sections mentioned above are individually constituted and are advantageously provided with:

 or of a composite material with continuous and controlled deformation constituted by an active layer connected to at least one source generating an adjustable temperature variation and by an inactive layer of a thermal conductive material which are assembled together and allow the deformation and expansion of the inactive layer via the active layer all connected to software.

or by preformed pouches made of deformable soft material connected by means of hoses fed by a pneumatic assembly capable of delivering compressed air to apply a constraint enabling them to growth or decay connected to an electronic assembly and data processing remotely controlled by software.

 or by any other system allowing an increase and decrease of the internal pockets and the outer envelope preferably homothetic and reliable.

 The dimensions of all the elements are to be determined according to the dimensions of the basic skeleton which must be reproduced by molding and which represents a size 34.

 According to Figure 6, each of these areas is connected to a central unit (11) with control interface (12) ideally placed in the chest (d). This central unit works with data obtained from a specific software that records the human size variations of each zone (26). The control unit must control a varied power by means of a power variator (27) for each of these areas so that they can operate independently of each other.

In this example, this system is equipped with an information entry frame (26) which informs the central unit on the commands entered by the user determining the size elongations and the volume expansion of each zone. which allows the device to determine ^■ after calculating electrical / mechanical forces or by a conveying system of the compressed air to be implemented for the increase or decrease of said zones.

According to Figure 7, an exemplary mounting of the expansion zone is presented explaining the operating principle applicable to the entire backbone. The device comprises a reproduction of the reinforcement of the hollow rigid plastic molded skeleton (28) which is traversed by an electric cable (29) connected to the expandable zone (30) on the one hand, and to the instructor terminal (11) on the other hand. The expandable zone is fixed to the frame by a cavalier attachment system (31) allowing it to be held on the skeleton.

 The deformation zone is preferably protected over its entire surface by a protective coating whose nature is preferentially chosen to resist drilling by sewing needles. A metal coating leaving a freedom of elastic deformation gives satisfaction.

 It can also be realized by a chainmail (32) (FIG. 7) (advantageously flat mesh) which can be made of various materials and thus makes it possible to follow the evolution of the deformation of the zone while protecting it from possible blows. needles that could pierce it in the case where these areas are made of air or deform the material in the case where these areas are shaped memory material. This coat of mesh is fixed on the frame by means of attachment points (33). By flat mesh, it is meant that at least a portion of the meshes consist of small plates, generally rectangular.

Preferably, these flat meshes overlap partially as in the case of Figure 7. They are linked in the overlap areas.

 The entire skeleton is optionally covered by a latex skin or equivalent synthetic material (34) of varying thickness.

The primary application of the anthropomorphic dummy according to the invention is to allow to have a bust on which the skilled person works according to the measurements required in a logic of ready-to-wear and / or couture, tailor-made. A novelty lies in the technical and computer mechanism of inflation of targeted areas of the manikin corresponding to existing measurements of sizes. It is a device applied to the sewing dummy of several volumes associated but independent of each other whose dimensions are remotely controlled by software. Thus, the dummy according to the invention may be a women's seam dummy but may also be applied to the production of a male mannequin or a child dummy and large mannequin.

 The manikin according to the invention makes it possible to avoid the cost and the storage of different busts in different sizes, according to the custom in the clothing sector.

 The manikin according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the operations of retouching, of modifications of a canvas and / or of a prototype.

 In particular, this can go as far as reducing or even eliminating the risks of failure of an unsuitable gradation and / or of a prototype.

 The manikin according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the costs of using a dummy-booth since the garment placed on the dummy, which is the subject of the invention, will be the size of the garment.

 The manikin offers unprecedented safety and technical reliability through its predetermined homothetic ratio between the desired size and the manikin. Indeed, it is common to note that the modelers complain that several identical models of manikins of the same company present differences in measurements.

The manikin also offers technical and practical ease to the skilled person as he becomes the sole basis of his work for the development of a clothing. From the beginning to the end of the production process, he can find in his database, the measurement table of the desired model and validate it in real life by fitting on the manikin adapted to the exact measurements of the garment. This eliminates the unreliable constraint of living dummy fitting that never has the exact measurements for the garment. This saves time by eliminating long periods of fitting on a live dummy, which must also be revalidated on wooden dummies. In addition to technical simplification, there is also an optimization of working time.

 The manikin, object of the invention, also allows the acceleration of the production process: optimization of the temporal and financial management of production.

 It undoubtedly ensures a financial gain by the elimination of fixed cost of living manikin and the reduction of invoiced hours of technicians.

 The expansion of these different zones allows a 3D modeling eliminating the steps of fitting on wooden dummy and living dummy, realizing a consequent temporal gain and a financial gain by the optimization in one and the same step of the fundamental phase of the fitting / fitting validating the fabric and / or the prototype generally requiring internally and externally within the framework of the subcontracting, at least 7 steps until obtaining the final product.

 The model, object of the invention, thanks to its 3D modeling and real, a dual application, both in the ready-to-wear and haute couture industry.

The inflator system of the manikin according to volumetric measurements entered in the software database ensures a variability of the offer through a use plural according to the standard needs of each sector and each society.

In a tailor-made / haute couture approach, this allows to create remotely, thanks to the 3D modeling process and to the real, for a customer, a garment with exact measurements without needing his physical presence for fittings, since the garment made will be made against the model, object of this patent application, with the customer's exact measurements and not on a standard model unrelated to January ¹ anatomy of the latter. The skilled person can easily find the measures of his client through the software and make fitting on his mannequin more reliably, ensuring a more effective realization.

 The invention makes it possible in the sector of the ready-to-wear industry to optimize mass production.

 The manikin, object of the invention, ensures inter-company harmonization of the bases and technical tools of work and optimizes, thereby, the temporal and financial management of the production process.

 The manikin allows to eliminate the problems of coherence of gradation and modelism of the prototype in a logic of outsourced production as it is today predominantly practiced in the ready-to-wear mass and luxury, insofar as at each end in the chain, the models are validated on this same thermo-deformable bust structure with the exact measurements desired by the ordering company.

In fact, every mannequin producing company produces his manikin with measurements and a specific density that does not allow a rendering of the rigging of the canvas and the fitting of the identical prototype according to the ordering companies and companies specializing in prototype production but especially manufacturing plants, because they do not usually have the same models.

 Thus, a standardization of data on bust with identical densities makes it possible to accelerate the process of validation and harmonization of the desired models between the different chains of economic operators.

 In addition, the manikin offers the possibility of an optimal implementation of segmental production in a global-local economic strategy.

 The expansion of these different zones makes it possible to carry out target gradations, ie gradations from the international databases recorded on the software and used according to the needs of the company.

 3D modeling on the manikin offers in a logic of globalized production the possibility to a company to set up a production with the morphologies of each market or market segment. Software including measurement charts from different countries or continents allows a French clothing company to offer a production adapted to market measurements (for Chinese women, for example).

 Companies can therefore begin a global-local production strategy that is key to success and economic viability today.

 According to a variant, not illustrated, the manikin object of the invention may allow application as a showcase mannequin.

Indeed, in addition to its upstream application in the production line, an optimal downstream use in sales places is envisaged by adding to the aforementioned mannequin an arm and a leg as well as a head with a human face. . Thanks to the Flexibility of the arms and legs, the window mannequin presents an advantageous visualization of the final product preserving the highlighted garment as well as a presentation always standardized to the size of the exposed product. On the one hand, the possibility of exposure of a product in a size other than the 36/38 standard effectively reduces the final consumer's power of identification to this minimum standard size and thus allowing him to represent himself dressed with the product. presented in its own size, so close to reality and secondly the manual readjustment using pins of a model not adapted to the typical manikin usually used in showcase undoubtedly constitute practical, economic and commercial advantages not insignificant as part of an optimized sales force where the final rendering of the garment allows the customer to immediately grasp the interest of the product and the reality of its rendering.

 In addition, the device can be applied in fields other than the textile industry: by way of non-limiting example, this device applied to the sewing mannequin of several volumes associated but independent of each other whose dimensions will be remote controlled by a Adapted software can be used especially in different applications either as a manikin for medical studies, or as a manikin for cosmetic surgery, or as a manikin for rescue exercises, firefighters, or as an automobile crash test dummy, or as a model for resistance (falls, sports, ...)

 The manikin according to the invention is particularly intended for the reproduction of real or 3D sizes from recorded data of standard human sizes for making ready-to-wear, semi or customized on a single manikin.

Claims

claims 1. Anthropomorphic dummy comprising a bust characterized by the fact that it comprises:  means for varying the volume of predetermined zones of the manikin,  means for controlling the volume variation means, the control means being configured to independently control the volume variation means of at least two predetermined zones.  2. Manikin according to claim 1, wherein the control means are configured to independently control the volume variation means of each of the predetermined areas.  3. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims wherein the predetermined areas are spaced according to the height of the manikin.  4. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims wherein at least one of the predetermined areas covers the entire periphery of a cross section of the dummy at its height.  5. Manikin according to the preceding claim wherein the volume variation means of said at least one of the predetermined zones comprise a pocket of variable and continuous volume surrounding said at least one of the predetermined areas. 6. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims wherein the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means (13 to 25) of predetermined zones which are preformed pockets of soft material. deformable connected to a set pneumatic able to deliver compressed air for their growth or decay.  7. Manikin according to the preceding claim wherein said preformed pockets are protected by a protective coating against drilling by needles.  8. Manikin according to the preceding claim wherein the protective coating is metallic.  9. Manikin according to one of the two preceding claims wherein the protective coating is of the chainmail type.  10. Manikin according to the preceding claim wherein the chain mail is of the flat mesh type partially overlapping.  11. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims wherein the volume variation means comprise, for at least one predetermined zone, volume expansion means (13 to 25) of predetermined zones which are preformed pockets of soft material. deformable connected to an electrical assembly capable of delivering a thermal intensity for their growth or decay.  12. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims, the control means comprising a central unit (1).  13. Manikin according to the preceding claim wherein the central unit (1) comprises a power variator (27) for the volume variation means of each of the predetermined areas, the power variation means being independent of each other. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims, in which the predetermined zones comprise at least two zones among: a neck zone (13), a bust zone (14), a bust zone (15), a waist area (16), a tower area of small hips (17), a hip zone (18), a shoulder length zone (19), a middle section in front and back (20), a biceps turn zone (21), an area wrist circumference (22), thigh turn zone (23), calf circumference area (24), ankle turn zone (25).  15. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims comprising means for elongation of the bust (3).  16. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims comprising at least one member from an arm and a leg and means for elongation of said at least one member.  17. Manikin according to one of the two preceding claims wherein the elongation means comprise at least one hydraulic or pneumatic cylinder.  18. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims comprising a foot frame (1) adjustable in height.  19. Manikin according to the preceding claim wherein the foot frame (1) comprises a control cylinder relative to the ground.  20. Manikin according to one of the preceding claims comprising a computerized control interface.