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WO2011076490A2 - Procédé de coiffage au moyen de compositions de coiffage à base d'eau - Google Patents

Procédé de coiffage au moyen de compositions de coiffage à base d'eau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011076490A2
WO2011076490A2 PCT/EP2010/067622 EP2010067622W WO2011076490A2 WO 2011076490 A2 WO2011076490 A2 WO 2011076490A2 EP 2010067622 W EP2010067622 W EP 2010067622W WO 2011076490 A2 WO2011076490 A2 WO 2011076490A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
chamber
water
propellant
container
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Ceased
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PCT/EP2010/067622
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2011076490A3 (fr
Inventor
Burkhard Müller
Uwe Bergemann
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Henkel AG and Co KGaA
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Publication of WO2011076490A2 publication Critical patent/WO2011076490A2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Publication of WO2011076490A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011076490A3/fr
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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a hairstyling process in which at least one water-based hairstyling composition is applied to the hair, the hair is applied to hairstyle before, during or after the application and then, with the application of only a gas stream, the hairstyle is dried, the gas stream by application a compressed gas container containing at least one propellant gas is generated. Furthermore, a packaging unit suitable for carrying out this method is the subject of the invention.
  • Hair styling compositions especially hair sprays or hair foams, usually have a large proportion of volatile organic compounds - called volatile organic compounds (VOC) for short.
  • VOC volatile organic compounds
  • volatile organic solvents favors the solubility of the ingredients of the styling agent.
  • the said solvents are used for the rapid drying of hair treated with a styling agent.
  • a quick hair drying is desired. It accelerates the fixation of the hairstyle by hardening the fixing ingredients such as waxes or polymers. Likewise, the quick drying reduces the hanging of the hairstyle by increased weight of the wet hair.
  • the amount of VOC in hair styling agents is reduced to protect the environment. Often this is done by increasing the water content. However, this measure entails that the drying time of the hair after styling undesirably increases. For this reason, when using water-based styling agents, the person skilled in the art attaches importance to a drying step using warm air, as provided, for example, by a hair dryer or a drying hood. However, the dependence on a hot air source means that water-based hair styling can not be done perfectly anywhere.
  • a first subject of the invention is therefore a process for hair shaping, in which a water-based composition comprising at least one hair-firming agent is applied to the hair, the hair is applied to the hairstyle before, during or after the application, followed by styling the hair is dried by a gas stream, wherein the gas stream is generated by using a compressed gas container containing at least one propellant gas.
  • a "water-based composition” within the meaning of the invention contains at least 30% by weight of water, in particular at least 60% by weight of water.
  • a “pressurized gas container” is a container which has a higher gas pressure in the interior than outside the container and from which a gas stream is taken off via a valve leaves.
  • Compressed gas containers with the aid of which a product (eg a water-based composition) is delivered by the internal gas pressure of the container via a valve, is called by definition as "aerosol dispensing container”.
  • aerosol dispensing container a container under normal pressure is defined in reverse to the aerosol definition, with the aid of which a product can be delivered by mechanical action by a pumping or squeezing system.
  • the water-based composition can be configured, for example, as a cream, gel, lotion, water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion, hair spray or hair foam.
  • the expert applies cream, gel, lotion, water-in-oil emulsion, oil-in-water emulsion, for example, by hand, a cloth or comb on the hair.
  • the person skilled in the art can also use aerosol dispensing containers or non-aerosol dispensing containers for the production of hair sprays or hair foams for this purpose.
  • the water-based composition is preferably applied according to the invention with the aid of an aerosol dispensing container with the aid of at least one propellant.
  • One possibility for producing the aerosol dispensing container which can be used in the method according to the invention is the filling of a suitable pressure-resistant container with all constituents of the water-based composition, the container subsequently being closed with a valve and the desired amount of propellant being introduced by conventional techniques.
  • At least one propellant is preferably selected from N 2 O, N 2 , CO 2 , air, argon, dimethyl ether, alkanes of 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n Pentane and iso-pentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Preference is given to N 2 O, N 2 , C0 2 , air, argon and mixtures thereof.
  • the aerosol dispensing container preferably contains the propellant in amounts of from 5 to 95% by weight, based on the sum of the amount of propellant and aqueous composition. Amounts of from 50 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 90% by weight, are particularly preferred.
  • the water-based composition necessarily includes at least one hair fixing agent. This is preferably selected from at least one compound of the group formed from setting polymers and waxes.
  • Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers. As a test method for the firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying.
  • film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Particularly preferred are those polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures. This makes it possible to produce appropriate solutions that can be applied or processed in a simple manner.
  • Film-forming polymers furthermore include those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.
  • water-based compositions additionally containing at least one setting polymer selected from at least one polymer of the group that is formed
  • nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers in particular of homopolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,
  • R 2 -H or -CH 3
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 are independently selected from (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl, (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkenyl or (C 2 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl groups
  • p 1, 2, 3 or 4
  • q is a natural number
  • X is a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion
  • anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups
  • Nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers which are suitable as an additional consolidating polymer are those nonionic polymers which comprise at least one of the following structural units
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (C 1 -C 4 ) -acyl group
  • R "and R” independently represent a (Ci to C 7 ) -alkyl group or a
  • R '" represents a linear or branched (C 1 to C 4 ) -alkyl group or a (C 2 to C 4 ) -hydroxyalkyl group.
  • Preferred nonionic setting polymers are homopolymers or copolymers composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylacrylamide, alkyl and dialkylmethacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, wherein in each case the alkyl groups of these monomers are selected from (C 1 to C 3 ) -alkyl groups.
  • nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers contain at least one of the following structural units
  • R ' represents a hydrogen atom or a (Cr to C 30 ) acyl group, in particular a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group.
  • Particularly suitable are homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam or vinyl pyrrolidone (such as Luviskol ® K 90 or Luviskol ® K 85 from BASF SE), (copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ® VA 37, Luviskol ® VA 55, Luviskol ® VA are marketed by the firm BASF SE 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73), (terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides such as Akypomine ® P 191 (from the company CHEM-Y), polyvinyl alcohols, for example, under the trade designations Elvanol ® be sold by Du Pont or Vinol ® 523/540 by Air Products), terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone
  • nonionic cellulose derivatives are also suitable for use as fixing polymers which are preferably selected from methylcellulose and in particular from cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000) g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg), hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as (for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and Benecel ® AQUALON) and Natrosol ® grades (Hercules) sold become.
  • cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropylcellulose (eg hydroxypropylcellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000) g / mol, which is marketed for example under the trade name Nisso Sl ® from Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg), hydroxyethyl cellulose, such as (for example under the trademark Culminal® ® and
  • Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be “temporary” or “permanent” cationic.
  • "permanently cationic” refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
  • Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups.
  • those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • a cationic setting polymer which is preferably suitable according to the invention is at least one cationic setting polymer which contains at least one structural element of the formula (M9) and additionally at least one structural element of the formula (M10)
  • R is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R ', R "and R” independently of one another represent a (C 1 to C 30 ) -alkyl group
  • X is an oxygen atom or a group NH
  • A is an ethane-1,2-diyl group or a propane-1,3-diyl group
  • n 1 or 3.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethyl aminopropyl) methacrylamide, and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI designation: Polyquaternium-69), which (for example, under the trade name Aqua Style ® 300 28-32 wt .-% of active substance in ethanol-water mixture) is sold by the company ISP.
  • the cationic fixing polymers are particularly preferably selected from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.
  • cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives are preferably suitable as setting polymers.
  • Such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be particularly advantageous for the purposes of the invention, which carry more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.
  • cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ® H 100, Celquat L 200 ® by the company National Starch.
  • cationic polymers which can be used particularly preferably for the purposes of the invention, there continue to be those cationic fixing copolymers which contain at least one structural element of the formula M1 1)
  • R is a (C- ⁇ to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally having at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • At least one copolymer (c1) is present, which in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (M1 1) additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (M6)
  • R is a (Ci to C 4 ) alkyl group, in particular a methyl group.
  • the copolymers (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • Very particularly preferred cationic fixing polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6).
  • the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1) and (M6) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-% , Contain polymer units due to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • Polyquaternium-16 N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers
  • BASF under the trade names Luviquat ® Style , Luviquat.RTM ® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ® Luviquat.RTM ® HM 552
  • N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers will be used according to INCI. Nomenclature referred to as Polyquaternium-44 and are available for example from BASF under the trade name Luviquat ® UltraCare.
  • agents according to the invention comprise a copolymer (c1), in particular of the formula (polyl), which has molecular weights within a certain range.
  • agents according to the invention are preferred in which the copolymer (c1) has a molecular weight of 50 to 400 kDa, preferably 100 to 300 kDa, more preferably 150 to 250 kDa and in particular 190 to 210 kDa.
  • the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (M7) as additional structural units
  • compositions which can be used according to the invention are thus characterized in that they comprise as cationic film-forming and / or cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c2) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M7)
  • the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of the structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6) and (M7) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (M1 1-a), (M6) and (M7).
  • component (c2) To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ® Hold by BASF ,
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M7).
  • the water-based compositions used according to the invention may also comprise as cationic setting polymer copolymers (c3) which as structural units contain structural units of the formulas ( M1 1-a) and (M6), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units.
  • compositions which can be used according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise as cationic setting polymer at least one copolymer (c3) which has at least one structural unit of formula (M1 1-a) and at least one structural unit of formula (M6) and at least one structural unit of formula (M10) and at least one structural unit according to formula (M12)
  • the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers.
  • the copolymers (c3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a), (M6), (M8) and (M12).
  • component (c3) To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c3) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • physiologically acceptable anions such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.
  • a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-68 and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ® Supreme available.
  • Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (M1 1-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M6) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M8) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M12).
  • Water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention optionally contain a copolymer (c3) which has molecular weights within a certain range.
  • a copolymer (c3) which has molecular weights within a certain range.
  • the copolymer (c3) has a molecular weight of 100 to 500 kDa, preferably 150 to 400 kDa, more preferably 250 to 350 kDa and in particular 290 to 310 kDa.
  • cationic fixing polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (M1 1-a), the following are preferred:
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium chloride copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ® Style, Luviquat ® FC 370, Luviquat ® FC 550, Luviquat ® FC 905 and Luviquat ® HM 552 (BASF SE)),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium copolymers such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ® (BASF SE)
  • BASF SE Luviquat Care ®
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1 H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ® Care or Luviquat Hold ® (BASF SE)),
  • Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium-Co polymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)),
  • cationic polymers which can preferably be used in the water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. These polymers include, for example, chitosans. Chitosan and / or chitosan derivatives are very particularly preferably suitable film-forming and / or setting polymers in the context of the present invention.
  • Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.
  • chitosans For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • bases Preferably used are those having an average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5,000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content of have less than 0.3 wt .-%.
  • chitosans as typical cationic biopolymers
  • cationically derivatized chitosans such as, for example, quaternization products
  • alkoxylated chitosans are also suitable for the purposes of the invention.
  • Water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention may be characterized in that they comprise as chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.
  • chitosan derivative (s) neutralization products of chitosan with at least one acid selected from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these neutralization products.
  • Suitable chitosan are, for example, under the trade names Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ® HCMF (chitosan (80%) deacetylated), molecular weight 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ® NB / commercially 101 freely available.
  • Hydagen ® CMF (1 wt .-% active ingredient in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% glycolic acid, molecular weight 500000 to 5000000 g / mol Cognis)
  • the chitosan or its derivatives are preferably present in the water-based compositions usable in accordance with the invention in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01% by weight to 10.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0, 1 wt .-% to 1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.
  • Suitable temporary cationic polymers for the purposes of the invention likewise include those which have at least one structural unit of the formulas (M1-1) to (M1-8)
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer for example, INCI name: Vinyl caprolactam / PVP / di-methylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix ® under the trade name VC 713 ISP)
  • Vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (for example as a 35-39% solids in ethanol in the form of the commercial product Advantage LC E with the INCI name: vinyl caprolactam / VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, alcohol, lauryl pyrrolidone (ISP)), Vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymer (for example INCI name: VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer under the trade name Styleze CC-10 (ISP)),
  • the water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention can also contain at least one amphoteric polymer as a setting polymer.
  • amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or S0 3 H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ' or -S0 3 ' groups, and those polymers comprising -COOH or S0 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ®, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters.
  • amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5% by weight are very particularly preferred.
  • At least one anionic setting polymer can be used as setting polymers.
  • the water-based composition employable in the present invention contains an anionic setting polymer, it is preferably in the form of a spray, especially an aerosol spray.
  • the anionic polymers are anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • the anionic, hair-setting polymers are preferably present in the water-based compositions usable in accordance with the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 15.0% by weight. %, very particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention. It is preferred according to the invention if the anionic, hair-fixing polymer comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (S1) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1 -1) to (S1-3)
  • At least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S2), which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (S2-1) to (S2-8)
  • R 2 is a (C 2 to d 2 ) acyl group (especially acetyl or neodecanoyl).
  • such water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention are preferred according to the invention as hair-fixing polymer containing at least one polymer containing at least one structural unit of the formula (S1-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-8)
  • R 2 is a (C 2 to d 2 ) acyl group (in particular acetyl and / or neodecanoyl).
  • Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed
  • Such copolymers are, for example, from the company Clariant under the trade name Aristoflex A 60 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates copolymer) in an isopropanol-water mixture (60 wt .-% of active substance), from BASF under the trade name Luviset CA 66 (Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer 90:10, INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer) provided by National Starch under the trade names Resyn 28-2942 and Resyn 28-2930 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer ) provided.
  • such agents according to the invention are preferred as containing at least one polymer as anionic hair-fixing polymer, which contain at least one structural unit of the formula (S1-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-5)
  • the anionic hair-fixing polymer additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S3) in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (S1-1) and (S2-5)
  • R 5 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
  • R 6 is a (C 1 -C 4 ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).
  • Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed from copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide.
  • Such copolymers are, for example, from BASF under the trade name Ultrahold ® strand (INCI name: Acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, white, pourable granules) or Ultrahold ® 8 (INCI name: Acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer, white, pourable Granules) provided.
  • the water-based composition which can be used according to the invention as an anionic setting polymer contains at least one polyurethane having at least one carboxyl group (such as, for example, a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with INCI).
  • Term Polyurethane-1 is sold by the company BASF SE).
  • the setting anionic polymers are preferably present in an amount of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the water-based composition ,
  • the waxes which can be used according to the invention as the hair firming agent preferably have a melting point in a range from 40 ° C. to 90 ° C.
  • the waxes are preferably selected from vegetable, animal and mineral waxes, preference being given to those waxes which have a melting point in the range from 50 ° C. to 85 ° C., in particular from 50 ° C. to 75 ° C.
  • Particularly preferred waxes according to the invention are beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes (microcrystalline paraffins) and cetyl palmitate.
  • the teaching according to the invention also comprises the combined use of several waxes.
  • addition of small amounts of carnauba wax can be used to increase the melting and dripping point of another wax and reduce its stickiness.
  • Spezialwachs 7686 OE a mixture of Cetylpalmitat, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 ° C, manufacturer: Kahl & Co
  • Polywax ® GP 200 a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 ° C, manufactured by Croda
  • Weightceresin ® FL 400 a petrolatum / vaseline oil / wax mixture having a melting point of 50- 54 ° C; manufacturer: Parafluid mineral oil company
  • liquid waxes such as, for example, jojoba oil
  • the water-based compositions preferably contain waxes in amounts of from 10 to 60% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10 to 55 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • the water-based compositions according to the invention may additionally contain at least one silicone, in particular at least one silicone oil.
  • Silicone oils which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.
  • silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols.
  • Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin- Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401 DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Em
  • Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable.
  • Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning® 5330 Fluid.
  • the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion.
  • the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art.
  • both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions.
  • the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the droplet size of the emulsified particles according to the invention 0.01 to 10,000 ⁇ , preferably 0.01 to 100 ⁇ , more preferably 0.01 to 20 ⁇ and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 ⁇ .
  • the particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.
  • branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers.
  • branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%.
  • a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%.
  • the degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes.
  • both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be particularly preferred.
  • Very particularly preferred suitable silicones are selected from cyclic silicones. Again, in particular, those of the formula (Si-1) are preferred,
  • the agent according to the invention of this embodiment very particularly preferably contains octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and / or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the cyclic dimethicones are referred to INCI as Cyclomethicone and are under the
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the silicones in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • auxiliaries and additives for the aqueous composition are in particular:
  • Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. Bentonite, fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol, and optionally crosslinked polyacrylates,
  • Structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
  • Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole,
  • Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
  • Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates,
  • Hydrogencarbonates such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
  • Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
  • the pressurized gas container of the drying step of the process according to the invention contains at least one pressurized propellant gas.
  • the internal pressure of the compressed gas container is preferably 1.5 to 15 bar, more preferably 4 to 12.5 bar.
  • the propellant gas is preferably selected from N 2 O, N 2 , C0 2 , air, argon and mixtures thereof.
  • the propellant is discharged as a gas stream from the pressurized gas container of the drying step.
  • the compressed gas container of the drying step according to the invention preferably has a spray rate (measured in grams per 10 seconds) when exiting the container from 1 g / 10 seconds to 3 g / 10 seconds
  • the compressed gas container of the drying step preferably has at a distance of 30 cm from the gas outlet a spray cone with a diameter of 4 cm to 12 cm, more preferably from 6 cm to 10 cm, most preferably from 7 to 9 cm on.
  • the compressed gas container of the drying step preferably comprises a pressure-regulating valve which constantly down-regulates the internal pressure of the compressed gas container to an amount of 30% to 70% of the initial internal pressure.
  • the initial internal pressure is the internal pressure of the pressurized gas container of the drying step prior to the first withdrawal of propellant gas.
  • a second object of the invention is a packaging unit comprising
  • At least one aerosol dispensing container containing at least one propellant and a water-based composition comprising at least one hair setting agent and
  • At least one further compressed gas container containing a pressurized propellant is provided.
  • At least one aerosol dispensing container and at least one pressurized gas container are offered as a single, independent container in an overpack, such as a carton or plastic wrapper, but is to be handled individually.
  • an overpack such as a carton or plastic wrapper
  • both are fastened to one another via a connecting element during application in the method according to the invention.
  • a connecting element for example, is a shrink tube, which sheathed both containers.
  • a permanently wrapping outer packaging such as a can or a hard plastic sleeve
  • a bag-in-can aerosol dispensing container in a first chamber at least one propellant and in a in the first chamber inside, designed in the form of a flexible bag second chamber, a aqueous composition comprising at least one hair fixative, wherein the first chamber and the second chamber are fluidly connected to each other via a valve device, and by presetting a switching device of the output control mechanism from the valve device when actuated either the water based composition of the second Chamber (possibly together with propellant the first chamber) or only the propellant of the first chamber is applied.
  • This embodiment relates to a so-called bag-in-can aerosol dispensing container which, depending on the setting device of the output control mechanism, comprises the water-based composition for the application step of the process according to the invention as a spray or the gas stream necessary for the drying step of the process according to the invention (without the water-based composition ). Between these two functions of the bag-in-can aerosol dispensing container, it is possible to switch back and forth by actuating the switching mechanism of the regulating mechanism.
  • bag-in-can aerosol dispensing container has a solid, box-shaped outer wall, preferably of metal or plastic, which encloses an internal pressure chamber (the aforesaid "first chamber") Pressure vessel closed by a valve cover or a valve device.
  • first chamber an internal pressure chamber
  • valve cover a valve device
  • additional sealants are used.
  • the bag is in fluid communication with the valve device, which is suitable for dispensing said water-based composition from the aerosol dispensing container when the valve position is open.
  • the bag is preferably made of a metal foil or a composite foil with metal and / or plastic components.
  • the second chamber is in fluid communication with the dispensing control mechanism, which is preferably integrated in the valve device, but this may also be upstream or downstream.
  • the pressure chamber (i.e., first chamber) is also in fluid communication with the valve device and the output control mechanism.
  • the dispensing control mechanism allows the water-based composition from the second chamber (optionally together with first-chamber propellant) to be dispensed from the aerosol dispensing container upon actuation of the valve device upon actuation of a switching device.
  • the output control mechanism allows by actuation of a switching device that upon actuation of the valve device, the propellant can be discharged from the aerosol dispensing container alone in the form of a gas flow from the first chamber.
  • the delivery of the water-based composition or the propellant from the aerosol dispensing container by appropriate actuation of the valve device, which is usually closed in the rest position and only when actuated, z. B. by pressure, opens.
  • the delivery of the water-based composition is effected by appropriate pressurization of the pressure chamber (i.e., first chamber).
  • the first chamber is filled before the first use of the water-based composition with a suitable blowing agent, so that adjusts a suitable filling pressure in the first chamber.
  • This filling pressure of the pressure chamber before first use is between 1-10 bar, preferably between 2-5 bar.
  • the flexible bag of the second chamber is uniformly pressurized from the outside, so that upon opening of the valve device, a desired release of the water-based composition takes place.
  • the user via a switching device of the output control mechanism, the aerosol dispensing container so that the aqueous composition is discharged from the second chamber via the valve device. It is also possible that propellant gas is discharged from the first chamber simultaneously with the delivery of the aqueous composition through the valve device.
  • Method for hair shaping wherein a bag-in-can Aerosol dispensing container is used, comprising in a first chamber at least one propellant and in a in the first chamber inside, designed in the form of a flexible bag second chamber, a water-based composition containing at least one hair fixing agent, wherein the first chamber and the second Chamber are connected in fluid communication via a valve device, and by presetting a switching device of the Ausgaberegelmechanismusses from the valve device when actuated either the water-based composition from the second chamber (possibly together with propellant of the first chamber) or only the propellant of the first chamber is applied
  • said water-based composition comprising at least one hair-setting agent applied to the hair from the bag-in-can aerosol dispensing container, the hair being applied to hair before, during or after application, and
  • Aerosol dispensing containers were provided, each containing one of the following water based compositions:
  • the water-based composition E1 was filled into an aerosol container meeting the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product 522983 PV10697 from Pecision (Deutsche refzisions-Ventil GmbH).
  • the aerosol container was filled with a propellant gas mixture of propane / butane (47% by weight of propane, 50% by weight of butane, 3% by weight of isobutane), resulting in a weight ratio of formulation to propellant gas of 92 to 8.
  • An aerosol foam product was obtained.
  • the water-based composition E2 was filled into an aerosol container meeting the following technical parameters: Aluminum storage container with valve Product Coster KE 130 from Coster.
  • the aerosol container was filled with dimethyl ether to give a formulation to propellant weight ratio of 60 to 40. An aerosol spray was obtained.
  • the compressed gas container had a spray rate of 1, 5 g / 10 seconds and at a distance of 30 cm from the gas outlet a spray cone with a diameter of 8 cm.
  • One subject each styled himself using the water-based composition E1 or E2 as part of a self-application.
  • the hairstyle obtained was in each case subsequently dried in the compressed air stream with the aid of the compressed gas container.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
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  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
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  • Birds (AREA)
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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de coiffage consistant à appliquer au moins une composition de coiffage à base d'eau sur les cheveux, à coiffer les cheveux avant, pendant ou après l'application, et à sécher les cheveux coiffés au moyen d'un flux de gaz exclusivement, le flux de gaz étant produit au moyen d'un réservoir de gaz sous pression renfermant au moins un gaz propulseur. Le procédé permet un coiffage amélioré au moyen de compositions de coiffage à base d'eau pouvant être réalisé partout.
PCT/EP2010/067622 2009-12-23 2010-11-17 Procédé de coiffage au moyen de compositions de coiffage à base d'eau Ceased WO2011076490A2 (fr)

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DE102009055280.4 2009-12-23
DE200910055280 DE102009055280A1 (de) 2009-12-23 2009-12-23 Haarstylingverfahren unter Verwendung wasserbasierter Haarstylingzusammensetzungen

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WO2011076490A2 true WO2011076490A2 (fr) 2011-06-30
WO2011076490A3 WO2011076490A3 (fr) 2012-10-11

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2016091465A1 (fr) * 2014-12-10 2016-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit et procédés de mise en en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques
WO2016091468A1 (fr) * 2014-12-10 2016-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agent et procédé pour soins de fibres kératiniques
WO2016091473A1 (fr) * 2014-12-10 2016-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agent et procédé de mise en en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3539083A (en) * 1968-12-17 1970-11-10 Dart Ind Inc Bag in can aerosol container
IL76913A0 (en) * 1985-11-01 1986-04-29 Josef Scolnik Method and device for eradicating lice and nits
DE60335275D1 (de) * 2002-06-26 2011-01-20 Daizo Co Ltd VERPACKUNGSBEHuLTER ZUM AUSTRAGEN VON MEHREREN INHALTEN, VERPACKUNGSPRODUKT MIT DEM VERPACKUNGSBEHuLRODUKTS
FR2901255B1 (fr) * 2006-05-16 2010-12-10 Lindal France Valve a deux voies
EP2022479A1 (fr) * 2007-08-07 2009-02-11 KPSS-Kao Professional Salon Services GmbH Composition de coiffage

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2016091465A1 (fr) * 2014-12-10 2016-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Produit et procédés de mise en en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques
WO2016091468A1 (fr) * 2014-12-10 2016-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agent et procédé pour soins de fibres kératiniques
WO2016091473A1 (fr) * 2014-12-10 2016-06-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Agent et procédé de mise en en forme temporaire de fibres kératiniques

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