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WO2011071795A1 - Système cosmétique pour ongles, pelable, à base d'eau - Google Patents

Système cosmétique pour ongles, pelable, à base d'eau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011071795A1
WO2011071795A1 PCT/US2010/059039 US2010059039W WO2011071795A1 WO 2011071795 A1 WO2011071795 A1 WO 2011071795A1 US 2010059039 W US2010059039 W US 2010059039W WO 2011071795 A1 WO2011071795 A1 WO 2011071795A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
water
nail cosmetic
cosmetic system
present
topcoat
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/US2010/059039
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Susanne Langmuir
Mitchell Schlossman
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Susanne Lang Fragrance Inc
Original Assignee
Susanne Lang Fragrance Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Susanne Lang Fragrance Inc filed Critical Susanne Lang Fragrance Inc
Publication of WO2011071795A1 publication Critical patent/WO2011071795A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8135—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by an acyloxy radical of a saturated carboxylic acid, of carbonic acid or of a haloformic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinyl esters (polyvinylacetate)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a nail cosmetic - in particular, a water- based, nail product that can be removed by peeling without the use of an acetone- based nail lacquer remover. Additionally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic product that can deliver water-soluble active ingredients to the nail.
  • Nail lacquers are cosmetic formulations that coat the nails.
  • nail lacquers are mixtures of film-forming polymers, plasticizers, as well as colorants and other additives dissolved in a mixture of volatile organic solvents.
  • Consumer selection of nail cosmetics is influenced by a number of factors, for example, color (both in bottle and on nails), gloss, opacity, and durability (of color and gloss as well as resistance to chipping).
  • Performance and aesthetic attributes are not, however, the only determinants of consumer choice. Purchasers of nail cosmetics are also strongly influenced by ease of application, including dry time, and removal.
  • the basecoat of the water-based nail cosmetic system of the present invention has a comparatively faster dry time vis-a-vis a conventional nail lacquer. This attribute allows users to apply a second, and as needed third, basecoat ⁇ i.e. , after the previous coat has dried) in substantially less time than is required to apply a similar number of coats of a conventional nail lacquer.
  • Acetone-based formulations are widely used to remove the majority of nail lacquers. Because nail lacquer removers need to dissolve and remove multiple layers of lacquer, removers typically contain at least about seventy percent acetone. It is well-known, however, that acetone removers have a several significant negative properties - (i) they emit what many users consider to be an unpleasant (even noxious) odor; (ii) some have suggested that acetone poses potential health hazards; (iii) acetone has a significant drying effect on nails and skin; (iv) when acetone dissolves conventional nail lacquers, especially reds and darker colors, the skin is often stained.
  • the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is free from formaldehyde, toluene and dibutyl phthalate.
  • the water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of the present invention is comprised of (i) a nitrocellulose topcoat containing hexamethyldisiloxane and (ii) a peel-off, aqueous basecoat.
  • a nitrocellulose topcoat containing hexamethyldisiloxane containing hexamethyldisiloxane
  • a peel-off, aqueous basecoat As used in the present application, by the term
  • peelable is meant a basecoat nail cosmetic of the present invention and/or a basecoat of the present invention in combination with a topcoat of the present invention that can be removed by peeling, without the use of an acetone-based remover.
  • the peelable nail cosmetic, system is removed in substantially a single piece.
  • the topcoat of the water-based, peelable nail cosmetic system of the present invention is comprised of: hexamethyldisiloxane; nitrocellulose as the primary film-forming polymer; one, preferably two, secondary film-forming polymer; and a plasticizer. Additionally, the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention contains at least three, preferably four, solvents and, optionally, a UV- absorber and/or a colorant.
  • Nitrocellulose is the primary film-forming polymer of the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention. It is an article of commerce made by esterifying the three hydroxyl groups on cellulose fibers with nitric acid. Due to its highly explosive nature, tri-nitrated cellulose is combined with a wetting agent.
  • the wetting agent is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl alcohol (IPA), ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol and isobutyl alcohol or toluene. More preferably, the diluent for nitrocellulose is isopropyl alcohol. Preferably, the IPA is combined with nitrocellulose at a ratio of about 30 parts IPA to 70 parts
  • Nitrocellulose is classified in the art using a viscosity-based nomenclature system; the viscosity being determined on a solution of nitrocellulose dissolved in a specified solvent. The grade of nitrocellulose is described based on the time (expressed in seconds) required for a steel ball (standardized in terms of mass and size) to travel the length of a glass tube filled with the dissolved nitrocellulose. By convention second is abbreviated with quotation marks (e.g., 1 ⁇ 2" is the shorthand expression for Vi-second grade.) In the topcoat of the present invention,
  • nitrocellulose is preferably a grade of less than one second, more preferably about 1 ⁇ 4 second, about 1 ⁇ 2 second or a mixture thereof.
  • the top-coat includes from about 8.5% to about 13.0% by weight nitrocellulose, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • Preferred grades of nitrocellulose are 1/2" grade and 8/13" grade.
  • the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention therefore includes at least one, preferably two secondary film-forming polymers selected from the group consisting of polyester resins and acrylics.
  • Polyester resins are formed by the reaction of a dibasic organic acid a tribasic organic acid, or a mixture there of, with a polyhydric alcohol.
  • Adipic acid, phthalic acid and isophthalic acid are preferred dibasic organic acids.
  • a polyester resin is present in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention at a concentration of from about 5% to about 8%, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • the polyester resin is a copolymer of adipic acid, neopentyl glycol and trimellitic anhydride monomers (INCI Name: Adipic Acid /
  • Glycol/T rimellitic Anhydride Copolymer is in solution in n-butyl acetate, where 68 to
  • this polyester resin supplied as a solution in (supplied as a 28 - 32% solution in n-butyl acetate, on a weight-% basis) is present at a concentration of from about 7.0% to about 10.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • Acrylics are articles of commerce known in the art, and are formed by polymerization or copolymerizations of esters of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid.
  • a preferred acrylic suitable for use in the present invention is an acrylate- copolymer, a copolymer of monomers selected from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and esters thereof.
  • the acrylic is a copolymer of methyl methacrylate and butyl methacrylate.
  • Another acrylic suitable for use in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is a copolymer of styrene and one or more
  • the acrylate is present at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 2% based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • Plasticizers serve the function of making the primary film-forming polymer (nitrocellulose) and the second film-forming polymer more flexible and, thereby, increase the overall durability of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention.
  • the plasticizer in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is selected from the group consisting of esters of citric acid (acetyl triethyl citrate, acetyl tri-n-butyl citrate) as well as esters of benzoic acid, triphenyl phosphate, dibutyl adipate, glyceryl triacetate, trimethyl pentanediol diisobutyrate and dibutyl phthalate.
  • the plasticizer is an ester of citric acid, more preferably, acetyl triethyl citrate.
  • the plasticizer is present at a concentration of from about 5% to about 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • Hexamethyldisiloxane is an essential ingredient of the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention, and has the molecular formula C 6 Hi 8 OSi 2 and conforms to the structure:
  • hexamethyldisiloxane is present in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention at a concentration of from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention contains multiple solvents - at least one, preferably two, oxygenated solvent(s) and at least one, preferably two, coupling solvent(s).
  • oxygenated solvent means an ester, ketone or glycol ether that can dissolve the film formers (i.e. , nitrocellulose as well as secondary film-forming resins) and plasticizers in the topcoat.
  • coupling solvent means an alcohol which is mixed with at least one oxygenated sol'
  • the at least one oxygenated solvent is an acetate selected from the group consisting of ethyl acetate, n-propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, and isobutyl acetate.
  • the topcoat contains two acetates as oxygenated solvents.
  • the first of the two acetates is n-butyl acetate, which is present at a concentration of from about 20% to about 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • the second of the two acetates is ethyl acetate, which is present at a concentration of from about 30% to about 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • ketone suitable for use as an oxygenated solvent in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is methyl ethyl ketone.
  • glycol ether suitable for use as an oxygenated solvent in the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention is propylene glycol monomethyl ether.
  • the at least one coupling solvent in the topcoat is a lower alcohol selected from the group of isopropyl alcohol, ethyl alcohol, butyl alcohol and isobutyl alcohol.
  • the topcoat contains two coupling agents.
  • the first coupling solvent is preferably isobutyl alcohol, which is present at a concentration of from about 10% to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat and the second coupling solvent is preferably isopropyl alcohol, which is present at concentration of from about 3% to about 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • Nitrocellulose is susceptible to yellowing (then browning) when exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) from 290 - 400 nm.
  • the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention can and preferably does contain a UVR-absorber.
  • UVR-absorber is meant an ingredient that attenuates, blocks and/or absorbs ultraviolet radiation.
  • a preferred the UVR-absorber is Benzophenone-3, which is present at a concentration of less than about 0.5% by weight, preferably less than about 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • the topcoat of the nail cosmetic system of the present invention may optionally contain at least one colorant.
  • the colorant is DC Violet 1 , at a concentration of less than about 0.05% by weight, based on the total weight of the topcoat.
  • the peel-off, aqueous basecoat is comprised of (i) an emulsion of polyvinyl acetate, (ii) polyvinyl pyrrolidone, (iii) a gloss-enhancing moisturizer ("GEM”), (iv) a volatile silicone, and (v) optionally, a lower volatile alcohol selected from the group of ethanol and isopropanol.
  • GEM gloss-enhancing moisturizer
  • the polyvinyl acetate (“PVAc”) emulsion contains vinyl acetate polymer (CAS No. 9003-20-7), hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol (CAS No. 9002-89-5), vinyl acetate (CAS No. 108-05-4), and water.
  • Polyvinyl pyrrolidone is a water-soluble polymer made from the monomer N-vinyl
  • PVP has a molecular weight of from about 10,000 to about 40,000.
  • the ratio of vinyl acetate polymer to water is from
  • vinyl acetate and hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol are present in the emulsion at a concentration of from about 1 .5% to about 2.0% by weight of the PVAc emulsion, where the ratio of vinyl acetate and hydrolyzed polyvinyl alcohol is from about 1 :2 to about 1 :2.5.
  • the polyvinyl acetate emulsion is present in the peel-off, aqueous basecoat at a concentration of from about 50% to about 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the basecoat.
  • Polyvinyl pyrrolidone is present in the peel-off, aqueous basecoat at a concentration of from about 5% to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the basecoat.
  • a gloss-enhancing moisturizer preferably glycerin, is present in the peel- off, aqueous basecoat at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 2.0% by weight of the basecoat.
  • the peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains a volatile cyclic silicone, preferably at a concentration of from about 0.5% to about 4% by weight of the basecoat.
  • Volatile cyclic silicones conform to the formula:
  • n is an integer from 3 to 6.
  • the peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains one or more water-soluble preservatives known to persons having ordinary skill in the art and described, for example, in D. Steinberg, Preservatives for Cosmetics (Allured: 2 nd Edition, 2006). Typically, the one or more water-soluble preservatives are present at a concentration of less than about 1.0%.
  • the peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains a lower volatile alcohol selected from the group consisting of ethanol and isopropanol, more preferably ethanol.
  • the lower volatile alcohol is at a
  • concentration of from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 5% to about 10%.
  • the peel-off, aqueous basecoat contains one or more water-soluble active ingredients, preferably a water-soluble vitamin.
  • D-panthenol is a preferred water-soluble vitamin and is preferably present at a concentration of from about 0.1 % to about 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the basecoat.
  • the pigment to basecoat ratio should be from about 1 :19 to about 1 :4.
  • Homomixers are known to persons having ordinary skill in the art and are commercially-available from a number of suppliers, including Eppenbach and Silverson.
  • the pigment can be added to the basecoat and then passed through a colloid mill or a three-roller mill, then checked with a Hegmann gauge (e.g., confirm that the dispersion does not contain agglomerates).
  • Example 1 Topcoat
  • Example 2 Peel-off, Aqueous Basecoat

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention porte sur un système cosmétique pour ongles, à base d'eau et pelable, qui peut être enlevé par pelage, sans l'utilisation d'un dissolvant à base d'acétone, le système cosmétique pour ongles étant composé d'une couche de finition de nitrate de cellulose contenant de l'hexaméthyldisiloxane et d'une couche de base pelable, aqueuse, contenant une émulsion d'acétate de polyvinyle.
PCT/US2010/059039 2009-12-07 2010-12-06 Système cosmétique pour ongles, pelable, à base d'eau Ceased WO2011071795A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US26712409P 2009-12-07 2009-12-07
US61/267,124 2009-12-07

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2011071795A1 true WO2011071795A1 (fr) 2011-06-16

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Family Applications (1)

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PCT/US2010/059039 Ceased WO2011071795A1 (fr) 2009-12-07 2010-12-06 Système cosmétique pour ongles, pelable, à base d'eau

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2011071795A1 (fr)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014088570A1 (fr) * 2012-12-05 2014-06-12 L'oreal Compositions pour ongles
CN104479137A (zh) * 2014-12-03 2015-04-01 陕西科技大学 一种水性硝化纤维乳液的制备方法及硝化纤维薄膜
US20150272853A1 (en) * 2012-10-12 2015-10-01 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Makeup base for skin removable with warm water
EP3011997A1 (fr) * 2014-10-21 2016-04-27 JC Korea Corp. Composition pour l'élimination de vernis à ongles et kit de retrait de vernis à ongles comprenant celle-ci
CN108778234A (zh) * 2016-03-18 2018-11-09 小林制药株式会社 用于减轻皮肤摩擦的外用制剂

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2764168A (en) * 1953-05-26 1956-09-25 Herz Benno Method of application of strippable nail polish
US4126144A (en) * 1976-12-30 1978-11-21 Duarte Patricia A Peelable human nail coatings
US5290543A (en) * 1991-04-24 1994-03-01 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Long wearing nail enamel topcoat and related methods
US5753211A (en) * 1995-07-31 1998-05-19 L'oreal Nail treatment composition comprising hydroxy carboxylic acid
US6099826A (en) * 1996-04-22 2000-08-08 L'oreal Use of ceramide for the treatment of nails
US20060128578A9 (en) * 2002-09-20 2006-06-15 Nathalie Jager Lezer Cosmetic composition comprising rigid fibres and at least one compound chosen from film-forming polymers and waxes

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2764168A (en) * 1953-05-26 1956-09-25 Herz Benno Method of application of strippable nail polish
US4126144A (en) * 1976-12-30 1978-11-21 Duarte Patricia A Peelable human nail coatings
US5290543A (en) * 1991-04-24 1994-03-01 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Long wearing nail enamel topcoat and related methods
US5753211A (en) * 1995-07-31 1998-05-19 L'oreal Nail treatment composition comprising hydroxy carboxylic acid
US6099826A (en) * 1996-04-22 2000-08-08 L'oreal Use of ceramide for the treatment of nails
US20060128578A9 (en) * 2002-09-20 2006-06-15 Nathalie Jager Lezer Cosmetic composition comprising rigid fibres and at least one compound chosen from film-forming polymers and waxes

Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20150272853A1 (en) * 2012-10-12 2015-10-01 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Makeup base for skin removable with warm water
US9968542B2 (en) * 2012-10-12 2018-05-15 Shiseido Company, Ltd. Makeup base for skin removable with warm water
WO2014088570A1 (fr) * 2012-12-05 2014-06-12 L'oreal Compositions pour ongles
US9597272B2 (en) 2012-12-05 2017-03-21 L'oreal Nail compositions
EP3011997A1 (fr) * 2014-10-21 2016-04-27 JC Korea Corp. Composition pour l'élimination de vernis à ongles et kit de retrait de vernis à ongles comprenant celle-ci
CN104479137A (zh) * 2014-12-03 2015-04-01 陕西科技大学 一种水性硝化纤维乳液的制备方法及硝化纤维薄膜
CN108778234A (zh) * 2016-03-18 2018-11-09 小林制药株式会社 用于减轻皮肤摩擦的外用制剂

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