WO2010000361A2 - Volumizing hair fixative - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation for treating keratin fibers, especially to a cosmetic hair fixative which contains a) at least one cationic amphoteric polymer, constituted of the monomers vinylpyrrolidone, tert. butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and methacryloylethyldimethylethyl ammonium ethyl sulfate, the portion of the methacrylic acid being lower than the portion of the dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and the polymer being neutralized with an appropriate acid, b) at least one non-ionic polymer and c) at least one silicon oil.

Description

 Beiersdorf AG Hamburg

Volumizing hair fixative

For temporary shaping and stabilization of the hairstyle, products are used which are known as styling agents. These include hair sprays, mousses, liquid fixatives, gels, waxes and more.

The formulations are diverse, the ingredients must be compatible in ethanolic, aqueous-ethanolic or aqueous medium.

Typically, these hair strengthening agents consist of solutions of film-forming natural or synthetic polymers or polymer combinations. These are nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers. These leave a transparent colorless film on the hair after application. There are a number of requirements placed on these films: they should be clear, glossy, insensitive to moisture, firming, long-lasting, flexible, non-sticky, do not affect the natural feel of the hair and can also easily be washed out with commercially available shampoos. Hairstyles have a special position in the group of styling products. Not only the film properties (hold, flexibility) are in the foreground, but also the care performance on the hair (combability, well-kept grip).

As holding polymers in hair setting agents, mainly statistical copolymers are used. As a rule, various nonionic, anionic or cationic / cationogenic monomers with vinyl or acrylic function are copolymerized.

A major disadvantage of the holding polymers in hair fixatives are the insufficient care properties: the hair can be combed bad and feels dull, rough and poorly maintained. After drying, the films are then relatively hard, brittle and inflexible. A disadvantage for the consumer are the tactile properties of the film and the formation of residues during combing (film splicing). These trickle on shoulders or clothes and make the user look neglected.

An improvement in terms of feel and combability is typically found in hair setting formulations by the combination of the above-mentioned polymers with cationic polymers.

BESTATIGUNGSKOPIE ren, cationic surfactants or silicones (for example, cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cycromethicone), silicone surfactants (polyether-modified siloxanes) of the dimethicone type).

However, the use of these cationic polymers or cationic surfactants usually leads to a significant decrease in bulk properties.

This disadvantage can in turn be remedied by the additional use of nonionic polymers. Another advantage of this combination is an excellent long-term volume.

In mousses, another disadvantage of many holding polymers comes into play: they give the foam an inadequate, non-cosmetic foam characteristic. The foam is coarse-bubble, soft, unstable and not very creamy.

To improve the foam properties, the addition of foam stabilizing additives, e.g. nonionic surfactants usual.

Surprisingly, it has been found that containing by a preparation for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular cosmetic hair fixative

a) at least one cationic amphoteric polymer composed of the monomers vinylpyrrolidone, te / t-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylethyldimethylethyl ammonium ethylsulfate, the proportion of methacrylic acid being less than the proportion of dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and the polymer having a suitable one Acid is neutralized,

b) at least one nonionic polymer and

c) at least one silicone oil

particularly good and long-lasting volumetric properties are achieved.

It has proven to be advantageous if the cationic or the amphoteric polymers has an active content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparation. It is furthermore advantageous if the cationically amphoteric polymer is a random, linear copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, tert-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylethyldimethylethylammonium ethyl sulfate neutralized with phosphoric acid to pH 6.0. It is also advantageous if the one or more nonionic polymers have an active content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparation. Further, it is advantageous if the nonionic polymer is a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate. It is furthermore advantageous if the silicone oil (s) has an active content of 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous if the silicone oil or oils are selected from linear or cyclic silicones, PEG- and / or PPG-modified silicones. It is furthermore advantageous if the preparation contains 0 to 95% by weight, preferably 5 to 60% by weight, of ethanol, based on the total weight of the preparation. Further, it is advantageous if the preparation contains 0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 15 wt .-% propellant based on the total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous if the preparation is present as blowing agent-containing mousse, pump foam stabilizer or pump spray for use in the hair. Furthermore, it is advantageous if additionally at least one further anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer is present in a concentration of 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Further, it is advantageous if in addition UV filter, antioxidants, oils, extracts, proteins and / or protein hydrolysates, pigments and / or perfume is included. The invention also encompasses the use of one of the preparations described for shaping the hairstyle of the human and / or the animal.

Inventive styling agents may contain other cosmetic adjuncts having different functions, e.g. Conditioners, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, emulsifiers, propellants, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters or other usual constituents of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

As a care material, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can additionally be used. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the agents contain at least one silicone oil and / or a silicone gum.

Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are, in particular, dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes. Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term "silicone oils" is understood by the person skilled in the art as meaning several structures of silicon-organic compounds.

Examples of such products include the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF- R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5,619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company, AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (A) Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), BC Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Dow Coming 1403 Fluid, Dow Coming 1501 Fluid, Dow Coming 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel Sl 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois FiIs), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation) , Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nony- chosine E, Nonychosine V (both exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both CoLaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources ), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously referred to Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all aforementioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-SiI CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E ( all Taylor Chemical Company), THV 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all Wacker-Chemie GmbH mentioned above).

Other suitable silicones are, for example, oligomeric polydimethylcyclosiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), in particular the tetrameric and the pentameric compound, which are available as commercial products DC 245 fluid, DC

344 or DC 345 are sold by Dow Corning,

Hexamethyl disiloxane (INCI name: Hexamethyldisiloxane), z. B. the product sold under the name Abil K 520,

Polyphenylmethylsiloxanes (INCI name: phenyl trimethicone), z. For example, the commercial product DC 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning, Esters as well as partial esters of the silicone-glycol copolymers, as marketed, for example, by the company Fanning under the trade name Fancorsil LIM (INCI name: Diminicone Copolyol Meadowfoamate),

anionic silicone oils such as the Dow Corning 1784 product

and Dow Corning 5330 Fluid, Dow Corning 949, Dow Corning 1401, Dow Corning 1403, and Dow Corning 1501.

As a conditioner, the agent may contain a protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, [beta] -amino acids and their derivatives such as [beta] -alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both plant and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are sold, for example, under the trade names Dehylan (Cognis), Promois (Interorgana), Collapuron (Cognis), Nutrilan (Cognis), Gelita-Sol (German Gelatine Factories Stoess & Co), Lexein (Inolex), Sericin (Pentapharm) and Kerasol (Croda).

Particularly interesting is the use of silk protein hydrolysates. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). In addition, random copolymers can be used as holding polymers in hair setting agents according to the invention. As a rule, various nonionic, anionic or cationic / cationogenic monomers with vinyl or acrylic function, such as, for example, are copolymerized. For example, vinyl lactams (vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam), vinyl acetate, alkyl (meth) acrylates (methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, propyl (meth) acrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth ) acrylate, cyclohexyl (meth) acrylate, etc.), styrene, (meth) acrylamide, alkyl (meth) acrylamides, functionalized alkyl (meth) acrylates (eg hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate) , Dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylate), functionalized alkyl (meth) acrylamides (dimethylaminopropyl (meth) acrylamide), (meth) acrylic acid, maleic acid, crotonic acid, acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, amino-containing monomers whose amino group is alkylated (quaternized), such as ( Meth) acryloylethyltrialkylammonium chloride, (meth) acryloylpropyltrialkylammonium chloride, (meth) acryloylaminopropyltrialkylammonium chloride, (meth) acryloylethyltrialkylammonium methosulfate, (meth) acryloylpropyltrialkylammonium methosulfate, (meth) acryloylaminopropyltrialkylammonium methosulfate. Examples of polymers of this type used in hair setting agents are, for example, polymers with INCI Acrylates Copolymer (Luvimer®, Luviflex® Soft from BASF, Balance CR®, Balance 0/55® from National Starch, Avila AC® from Lubrizol), acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer (Acudyne® from Rohm & Haas), Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer (Amphomer® or Resyn XP from National Starch), AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer (Fixate® from Lubrizol), Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer (Gantrez ® from ISP), ethyl esters of PVM / MA Copoylmer (Gantrez®, Omnrez® or Advantage® from ISP), acrylamides / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / acrylic acid polymer (Acudyne SCP® from Rohm & Haas), isobutylenes / ethylmaleimides / hydroxyethylmaleimides Copolymer (Aquaflex FX-64® from ISP), octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Amphomer® or Balance® from Natinal Starch), acrylates / t-butylacrylamide copolymer (Ultrahold® from BASF), PEG / PPG-25 / 25 dimethicone / acrylates / t-butylacryl copolymer (Luviflex Silk® from BASF), polyvinylcaprolactam (Luviskol Plus® from BASF), PVM / MA copolymer (Luviform FA® from BASF), PVP (Luviskol® from BASF), PVP / VA copolymer (Luviskol® from BASF), VP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Copolymer® from ISP), sodium polystyrene sulfonate (Flexan® from National Starch), VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copoylmer (Luviset CAN® from BASF, Resyn® from Natinal Starch), VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer (Luviset CAP® from BASF), VA / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer (Advantage Plus® from ISP), VA / crotonates copolymer (Luviset CA 66® from BASF, Aristoflex® from Clariant), VA / vinylbutyl benzoates / Crotonates Copolymer (Meximer PW® from Chimex), vinylcaprolactam / PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Advantage® from ISP), VA / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymer (Advantage Plus® from ISP), acrylates / C1-2 succinates / hydroxyacrylates Copolymer (Allianz LT-120® from ISP), VP / Vinyl Capro- lactam / DMAPA acrylate copolymer (Aquaflex SF-40® from ISP), vinyl caprolactam A / P / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Gaffix® from ISP), VP / DMAPA acrylate copolymer (Styleze CC-10 from ISP), VP / Acrylates / Lauryl methacrylate copolymer (Styleze 2000® from ISP), VP / methacrylamide / N-vinyl imidazole copolymer (Luviset Clear® from BASF), all polyacrylate types (Fixate Plus® and Fixate Superhold from Lubrizol, Luviset Shape® from BASF) and many more.

Other classes of polymers used in hair fixatives are e.g. Polyurethanes, e.g. Polyurethane-1 (Luviset PUR® from BASF), Polyurethane-2 (Avalure UR® from Lubrizol), Polyurethane-6 (Luviset Sl PUR® from BASF), polyesters, e.g. Polyester-5 (Eastman AQ polymers), polyimides, e.g. Polyimide-1 (Aquaflex XL-30® from ISP), and many more.

An improvement in terms of feel and combability is achieved in the hair setting formulations according to the invention by the combination of the abovementioned polymers with cationic polymers, cationic surfactants or silicones (for example cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicone), silicone surfactants (polyether-modified siloxanes) of the dimethicone type).

Suitable cationic surfactants are selected from the group of the quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular benzyltrialkylammonium salts or alkyltrimethylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylaminoethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, hydroxyethyl cetyldimonium phosphates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example Lauryl or cetylpyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds having a cationic character, such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides.

Suitable cationic polymers are polymers described under the name Polyquaternium, such as quaternized copolymers of vinylimidazole, vinylpyrrolidone and / or vinylcaprolactam (Polyquaternium-16, -44 or -46), quaternized vinylpyrrolidone /

Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-11), homopolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-6, -7 or -22), quaternized cellulose polymers (Polyquaternium-4, -10), copolymers of cationic cellulose and starch (polyquaternium) 4 / hydroxypropyl starch copolymer), quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate / lauryl dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate copolymer (Polyquaternium-55), vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide / quaternized vinylimidazole (Polyquatemium-68), quaternized vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimoniumchloride (Polyquaternium-69) or quaternized guar derivatives.

Nonionic polymers suitable according to the invention are e.g. Homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, e.g. Luviskol K from BASF or homopolymers of N-vinylformamide e.g. PVF from National Starch.

Further suitable polymers are copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, e.g. Luviskol VA types from BASF, terpolymers from vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and propionate such as e.g. Luviskol VAP from BASF, polyvinylcaprolactam, polyvinylamides and their salts, as well as copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, terpolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminomethacrylate; Polysiloxanes and the like.

Suitable nonionic surfactants according to the invention are alcohols, alkanolamides, such as cocamide MEA / DEA / MIPA, amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide, esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside, sucrose esters, ethers, polyglycerol esters , Diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters, methyl glucose esters, and esters of hydroxy acids.

Suitable propellants according to the invention are hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane and propane, dimethyl ether or fluorohydrocarbons such. B. 1, 2-Diflourethan. Other blowing agents are nitrogen, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide or compressed air.

Formulation examples hair fixative:

Polymer 1: random, linear copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, terf-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylethyldimethylethyl ammonium ethyl sulfate, neutralized with phosphoric acid to pH 6.0.

Polymer 1: random, linear copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, tert-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylethyldimethylethyl ammonium ethyl sulfate, neutralized with phosphoric acid to pH 6.0.

Polymer 1: random, linear copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone, terf-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylethyldimethylethyl ammonium ethyl sulfate, neutralized with phosphoric acid to pH 6.0.

Claims

claims 1. Preparation for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular containing cosmetic hair fixative a) at least one cationic amphoteric polymer composed of the monomers vinylpyrrolidone, tert-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and methacryloylethyldimethylethylammonium ethylsulfate, the proportion of methacrylic acid being less than the proportion of dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and the polymer being neutralized with a suitable acid, b) at least one nonionic polymer and c) at least one silicone oil. 2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic or the amphoteric polymers have an active content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparation. 3. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic amphoteric polymer is a random, linear copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone don, tert-butyl acrylate, methacrylic acid, Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid and Methacryloylethyldimethylethyl ammonium ethyl sulfate, neutralized with phosphoric acid to pH 6.0. 4. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more nonionic polymers having an active content of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparation 5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic polymer is a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate. 6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more silicone oils has an active content of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparation 7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more silicone oils are selected from linear or cyclic silicones, PEG and / or PPG-modified silicones. 8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains 0 to 95 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 60 wt .-% ethanol, based on the total weight of the preparation. 9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains 0 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 15 wt .-% propellant based on the total weight of the preparation. 10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims present as propellant-containing mousse, pump foam or pump spray for use in the hair. 11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims additionally containing at least one further anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric film-forming polymer in a concentration of 0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 5 wt .-% based on the total weight of the preparation. 12. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims additionally containing UV filters, antioxidants, oils, extracts, proteins and / or protein hydrolysates, pigments and / or perfume. 13. Use of a preparation according to one of the preceding claims for the design of the hairstyle of humans and / or the animal.