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WO2010061242A1 - Poudre compacte exempte de liant sous forme libre - Google Patents

Poudre compacte exempte de liant sous forme libre Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010061242A1
WO2010061242A1 PCT/IB2008/054942 IB2008054942W WO2010061242A1 WO 2010061242 A1 WO2010061242 A1 WO 2010061242A1 IB 2008054942 W IB2008054942 W IB 2008054942W WO 2010061242 A1 WO2010061242 A1 WO 2010061242A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
powder
weight
ester oil
composition according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/IB2008/054942
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English (en)
Inventor
Toshiyuki Kani
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Priority to PCT/IB2008/054942 priority Critical patent/WO2010061242A1/fr
Publication of WO2010061242A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010061242A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin, in particular the face, provided in the form of a compact powder, particularly in the form of a compact powder foundation or eyeshadow, and more particularly in the form of a compact powder foundation.
  • composition considered according to the invention comprises a pulverulent phase comprising specific surface treated powder and less than 5% by weight of binder in a free form, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present disclosure also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for human keratinous substances, such as the skin, hair or nails and more particularly for skin.
  • the composition disclosed herein can be a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and can be provided in the form of a blusher, an eyeshadow, a face powder, a foundation, a concealer, a product for making up the body, a product for caring for the face, a product for caring for the body or an antisun product.
  • the present disclosure relates to a foundation composition.
  • Make-up powders generally comprise, on the one hand, a pulverulent phase comprising, for example, pigments and fillers and, on the other hand, a fatty phase as binder comprising fatty substances.
  • the fatty phase is intended to confer a degree of density on the finished product, to bestow softness and an emollient property on the makeup product and to promote its adherence to the skin.
  • make-up compositions such as foundations, eyeshadows and blushers
  • a compact powder generally comprising a fatty phase, referred to as binder, and a pulverulent phase comprising in particular pigments and/or fillers.
  • the binder is in particular intended to provide a degree of cohesion to the particulate phase of the said powders, so as to reduce the risks of fragmentation thereof under impact and to ensure easy collection thereof.
  • binder is understood to be in a free form in the composition and does not form a composite material with the fillers, even if not specifically mentioned.
  • the binder may be solid or liquid.
  • silicone oil, ester oil, triglyceride oil and hydrocarbon are generally used for liquid binder.
  • Metallic soap and powdered wax are generally used for solid binder.
  • containing of liquid or solid binder decreases smooth texture and increases aggregation when applying the product on the skin.
  • CPF Compacted Powdery Foundation
  • the inventors have observed that it is possible to obtain such a composition by using a reduced content of binder, and even no binder with a minimum amount of 35% by weight of at least a fat ester oil surface treated powder relative to the total weight of the composition, said powder being a filler and/or a pigment, preferably a filler.
  • the composition spreads smoothly, widely and evenly, exhibits good long lasting effect and natural makeup finish, i.e. giving neither matte nor shining and making the skin not looking powdery, and confers a good feeling on the skin.
  • the composition according to the invention is easy to be taken off, for example with a sponge and even with a brush.
  • a compact powder with mineral powders in an amount equal or higher than 95% by weight of total weight of the composition, but still having good properties of compaction.
  • a compact powder with at least 95% of mineral compoudns is called 'Mineral compact powder'.
  • the invention relates, in one of its aspects, to a cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder for making up and/or caring for the skin, comprising less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight of binder in a free form relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one surface treated powder in an amount of at least 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said powder being a filler and/or pigment, wherein said at least one surface treated powder is coated with a fat ester oil.
  • the invention further relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin at least one composition according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention are provided in the form of a compact powder.
  • This compacted feature is obtained by subjecting to a compression the mixture of the particulate pulverulent phase and the other present substances.
  • a composition according to the invention i.e. in the form of a compact powder, for example a compact powder foundation, generally contains a particulate phase, said particulate phase comprising a surface treated powder in conformity with the invention and optionally, additional non-surface treated powder, as spherical fillers, additional surface treated powder, and contains less than 5% by weight , preferably less than 3% by weight of solid or liquid binder in a free form, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the invention relates to a device comprising a container for housing a composition as defined above, optionnaly comprising an applicator for applying the composition.
  • the invention relates to a manufacture process of a composition according to the present invention, comprising: (i) at least a step consisting of coating at least one powder with a fat ester oil in an amount greater or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said at least one powder, and
  • the invention furthermore relates to a composition comprising at least 35% by weight of at least one fat ester oil surface treated powder relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight of binder in free form relative to the total weight of the composition and subjected to a compression, for use as a compact powder foundation demonstrating improved softness during application and lower aggregation than with traditional compact powder foundation.
  • the preferred composition according to the invention containing no binder in a free form is also easier to manufacture in comparison to traditional compact powder foundation (containing 10% of binder in a free form), as the process doesn't require a step of mixing the pulverulent phase with the binder in a free form.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least a fat ester oil surface treated powder.
  • Said powder may consist in one or more filler, on or more pigment or in a mixture thereof.
  • powder is a filler.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
  • the fillers can be inorganic or organic and of any shape, such as platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). In a preferred embodiment, fillers are non- spherical fillers.
  • pigment should be understood to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles of any shape, that are insoluble in the physiological medium and are intended to confer a tint to the composition.
  • mineral denotes chemical compounds which are inorganic, naturally occurring or synthetically obtained. Such mineral substances mainly occur in the crystalline form.
  • the number-average size of the fat ester oil surface treated powder may vary between 1 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably between 3 to 25 ⁇ m, more preferably between 5 to
  • number-average size denotes the size given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population, referred to as D50.
  • the number-average size of these powders can be measured as a mean value by a method under observation with optical microscope, electron microscope or particle size analyser using laser diffraction system.
  • the number-average size of a particle that is not spherical in shape can be determined as a mean of the total of long diameter, short diameter, thickness and the like.
  • Mineral or inorganic powders include: - fillers such as mica, synthetic fluorphlogopite sericite, talc, kaolin, synthetic mica, white mica, gold mica, red mica, black mica, lithia mica, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, calcium phosphate, alumina, magnesium oxide, aluminium hydroxide, aluminium oxides, barium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, silicic acid, silicic anhydride, magnesium silicate, aluminium silicate, magnesium aluminium silicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, strontium silicate, silicon carbide, metal salts of tungstic acid, magnesium aluminate, magnesium metasilicate aluminate, chlorohydroxyaluminium, clay, bentonite, zeolite, smectite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, boron nitride, silica, hollow silica microspheres (silica Beads ® from
  • - white pigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide; - coloring pigments such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, inorganic blue pigments, carbon black, low ordertitanium oxides, mango violet, manganese violet, cobalt violet, metal powder such as aluminium powder and copper powder, - optically gloss pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica, pearl essence, powder prepared by covering synthetic mica with titanium dioxide, powder prepared by covering silica flake with titanium dioxide, which is available under the trade name of "Metashine" from Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd., powder prepared by covering alumina flake with tin oxide and titanium dioxide, powder prepared by covering aluminium flake with titanium dioxide, powderpreparedby covering Copper Flake available from Eckert Inc.
  • coloring pigments such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide
  • silica powder prepared by covering bronze flake with silica, and powder prepared by covering aluminium flake with silica; - ultrafine powder of a mean particle size less than 0.1 ⁇ m such as ultrafine titanium dioxide, ultrafme zinc oxide, ultrafme iron oxide, and ultrafme cerium oxide; - powders with specific particle shapes such as butterfly-shaped barium sulfate, petal-shaped zinc oxide, and nylon fiber of a long diameter of several millimeters; other powders such as luminescent powder marketed under the trade name of "Luminova Series" by Mitsui & Co., Ltd., aluminium powder, stainless powder, tourmaline powder, and amber powder; and - a mixture thereof.
  • Luminova Series by Mitsui & Co., Ltd.
  • Organic powders includes for example wool powder, polyamide powder (Nylon ® or Orgasol ® from Arkema), polyester powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, polystyrene powder, polyurethane powder, benzoguanamine powder, polymethyl benzoguanamine powder, tetrafluoroethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, cellulose powder, silk powder, silicone powder, silicone rubber powder, synthetic resin powders such as styrene-acrylate copolymer, divinylbenzene- styrene copolymer, vinyl resin, urea resin, phenol resin, fluorine resin, tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon ® ), silicone resin, acrylic resin, melamine resin, epoxy resin, and polycarbonate resin, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile, for example Expancel ® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrop
  • the tar dye includes for example Red No.3, Red No.10, Red No.106, Red No.201, Red No.202, Red No.204, Red No.205, Red No.220, Red No.226, Red No.227, Red No.228, Red No.230, Red No.401, Red No.505, Yellow No.4, Yellow No.5, Yellow No.202, Yellow No.203, Yellow No.204, Yellow No.401, Blue No.l, Blue No.2, Blue No.201, Blue No.404, Green No.3, Green No.201, Green No.204, Green No.205, Orange No.201, Orange No.203, Orange No.204, Orange No.206, and Orange No.207. Natural dyes include powders such as carmine, laccaic acid, carsamine, brazilin, and crocin.
  • Composite powder or doped powder may also be suitable as base powder to be surface treated in accordance with the present invention.
  • Examples thereof include powder prepared by covering inorganic coloring pigments such as red iron oxide with silicic anhydride, powders prepared by covering nylon with white pigments, and powders prepared by covering fillers with ultrafme white pigments.
  • At least 60% by weight of the fat ester oil surface treated powder is mineral or inorganic, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 95% by weight.
  • powders used in the composition of the invention are inorganic (mineral powders). In case the composition also contains organic powders, they might be present in an amount preferentially less than 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • Said fat ester oil surface treated powder comprises according to one embodiment mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and their mixture.
  • mineral pigments such as titanium dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and their mixture.
  • Said fat ester oil surface treated powder comprises according to one further embodiment mineral fillers such as mica, talc, synthetic fluorphlogopite, sericite, kaoline, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride and their mixture.
  • Said fat ester oil surface treated powder consists according to a further embodiment in at least one mineral pigment, at least one mineral filler or a mixture thereof in particular as listed above.
  • the surface fat ester oil treated powder comprises at least mica, sericite, synthetic fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fat ester oil for use in coating a powder in accordance with one embodiment of the invention contains a hemiester having 16 or more carbon atoms in total obtainable by partially esterifying one or more alcohols having one to 36 carbon atoms with one ore more carboxylic acids having one to 36 carbon atoms.
  • said half ester demonstrates an acid value of 15 or more.
  • the "fat ester oil” denotes an oil comprising at least one “hemiester”, or alternatively consisting of one or more hemiester(s).
  • ester denotes an ester compound having at least 16 carbon atoms, which is partially esterif ⁇ ed, which means that at least one function COOH or acid function is free after esterif ⁇ cation.
  • Said esterif ⁇ cations may be obtained by partially esterifying at least an organic compound comprising at least two alcohol groups with an organic compound comprising at least one acidic group or alternatively at least an organic compound comprising at least two acidic groups with at least an organic compound comprising at least one alcohol group.
  • the hemiester is a compound obtained by reaction of one or more branched or unsaturated alcohols with mono valence to six valence and one or more dibasic acids or tribasic acids and comprises 6 or less ester- binding sites or ester groups.
  • each hemiester structure comprises 1 to 6 ester groups, for example 1 to 4, in particular 1, 2 or 3 ester groups.
  • the fat ester oil may for example comprise an ester compound having at least 16 carbon atoms, as can be obtained by partially esterifying one or more alcohols having at least 12 carbon atoms with one or more carboxylic acids having one to 36 carbon atoms.
  • the alcohol having at least 12 carbon atoms which may be used includes monovalent linear alcohols, monovalent branched alcohols, monovalent unsaturated alcohols and divalent or higher valent alcohols as described hereinafter.
  • any such carboxylic acid of saturated, unsaturated, hydroxy, aromatic type and the like may be used as described hereinafter.
  • the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol and the carboxylic acid may independently be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, alicyclic or aromatic and for carboxylic acid may comprise hydroxyl group.
  • the alcohol having one to 36 carbon atoms for use in accordance with one embodiment of the invention includes:
  • - monovalent linear alcohols such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, nonanol, decanol, undecanol, dodecanol (lauryl alcohol), tridecanol, tetradecanol (myristyl alcohol), pentadecanol, hexadecanol (cetyl alcohol), heptadecanol, octadecanol (stearyl alcohol), nonadecanol, eicosanol (aralkyl alcohol), docosanol (behenyl alcohol), tetracosanol, and setostearyl alcohol;
  • - monovalent branched alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, isobutyl alcohol, isopentyl alcohol, isohexanol, isoheptanol, iso-octanol, dimethyloctanol, isononanol, isodecanol, isoundecanol, isododecanol, isotridecanol, isotetradecanol, isopentadecanol, isohexadecanol (hexyldecanol), iso heptadecanol, isooctadecanol
  • isostearyl alcohol isononadecanol
  • isoeicosanol octyldodecanol
  • 2-ethylhexanol 2-butyloctanol
  • 2-hexyldecanol 2-octyldodecanol
  • 2-decyltetradecanol 2-dodecylhexadecanol, 2-tetradecyloctadecanol, and 2-hexadecyloctadecano 1; - monovalent unsaturated alcohols such as undecenol, laurolenol, myristolenol, palmitolenol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and jojoba alcohol,
  • - monovalent unsaturated alcohols such as undecenol, laurolenol, myristolenol, palmitolenol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and jojoba
  • sterols such as cholesterol, dihydrocholesterol, desmosterol, lanosterol, dihydrolanosterol, agnosterol, latosterol, sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, brassicasterol, ergosterol, phytosterol, and lanolin alcohol;
  • - divalent or polyvalent alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, butanediol, pentanediol, hexanediol, heptanediol, octanediol, nonanediol, decanediol, pinacol, hydrobenzoin, benzpinacol, cyclopentane-1,2- diol, cyclohexane-l,2-diol, cyclohexane-l,4-diol, dimer diol, hydrogenated dimer diol, neopentylglycol, glycerin, trimethylol propane, trimethylol propane condensate, trimethylol ethane, pentaerythrit, pentaerythrit condensate, sorbit, glycerin condensate, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene glycol
  • the "dimer diol” means diol generated by dimerization of an unsaturated fatty alcohol with 11 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the unsaturated fatty diol includes for example fumaric acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid.
  • At least one alcohol is a mono- or poly-alcohol having from 12 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the alcohol may be for example isostearyl alcohol.
  • n denotes the number of acidic group.
  • any such carboxylic acid of saturated, unsaturated, hydroxy, aromatic type and the like may be used.
  • the "dimer acid” means dibasic acid generated by dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid with 11 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the unsaturated dibasic acid includes for example fumaric acid, maleic acid and itaconic acid.
  • the hydroxy-polybasic acid includes for example tartaric acid, malic acid, mucic acid, and citric acid.
  • As the hydroxy-polybasic acid additionally, amino acids and acylated amino acids may also be used.
  • the previous cited carboxylic acid may be used singularly or in mixture of an appropriate combination thereof.
  • At least one carboxylic acid is a mono- or a poly-acid having from 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably a diacid having 10 carbon atoms.
  • the carboxylic acid may be for example sebacic acid.
  • the partial ester in accordance with one embodiment of the invention is a partial ester between the alcohol and the carboxylic acid and can be synthetically prepared by esterif ⁇ cation.
  • the esterif ⁇ cation can be carried out by charging the individual raw materials in an appropriate reaction container and then reacting them together in the presence or absence of an acid, an alkali or a metal catalyst, preferably in an organic solvent or/and a gas inert to the reaction, at 150 to 200 0 C for several hours to about 10 hours, while the byproduct water is eliminated.
  • an acid an alkali or a metal catalyst, preferably in an organic solvent or/and a gas inert to the reaction, at 150 to 200 0 C for several hours to about 10 hours, while the byproduct water is eliminated.
  • a catalyst is used, herein, the catalyst is added to 0.001 to 1.0% of the weight of the reactants.
  • the product may contain unreactive materials, which are separated and removed by known methods such as rinsing in water, elimination of acids with alkalis, and treatment with adsorbents such as silica gel and are then purified additionally by decoloring and eliminating the odor.
  • the fat ester oil thus obtained is in a liquid or solid state at ambient temperature.
  • the fat ester oil in accordance with the invention contains a hemiester compound with 16 or more carbon atoms in total.
  • the hemiester compound comprises 16 to 72, more particularly
  • the “acid value” denotes the mass of potassium hydroxide (KOH) in milligrams that is required to neutralize one gram of a chemical substance.
  • the acid value of the fat ester oil in accordance with the invention can be measured by methods known to persons skilled in the art.
  • the acid value of the fat ester oil is 15 or more.
  • the acid value may be less than 100.
  • the acid value of the fat ester oil may range between 15 and 100.
  • the ester oil may be liquid, semi-solid or solid with plasticity state at ambient temperature. More preferably, the ester oil is in liquid or in semi-solid state, specifically with a melting point of 70 0 C or less.
  • the hemiester is chosen among isostearyl sebacate, isostearyl malate, isostearyl succinate, isostearyl diglycol acid, isostearyl glutaric acid, isostearyl diethyl glutaric acid, isostearyl adipic acid, isostearyl suberic acid, isostearyl azelaic acid, isostearyl dimer acid, rinoleic malate, rinoleic succinate, rinoleic diglycol acid, rinoleic glutaric acid, rinoleic diethyl glutaric acid, rinoleic adipic acid, rinoleic suberic acid, rinoleic azelaic acid, rinoleic dimer acid or a mixture thereof.
  • the fat ester oil comprises at least isostearyl sebacate, or even consists of isostearyl sebacate.
  • the amount for surface treatment of the fat ester oil varies depending on the type and specific surface area of the base powder.
  • the amount of surface fat ester oil in the treated powder ranges from 4 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the at least one surface treated powder.
  • the amount ranges from 5 to 7% by weight, preferably from 5 to 6%, and more preferably is 5.5% by weight.
  • Such ester oil for surface treatment may satisfactorily be in mixture of two types or more thereof for the coating treatment.
  • the method for surface treating powders with the fat ester oil in accordance with the invention can include a step of coating the carboxylic acid moiety as it is in the free form, or a step of treating the carboxylic acid moiety with any of Na, K and polyvalent metals such as Ba, Zn, Ca, Mg, Fe, Zr, Co, Al, and Ti, ammonium or oniums of organic alkanol amines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, and triisopropanolamine.
  • the treatment can include, but is not limited to a surface treatment that is carried out after or simultaneous with substituting the hydrogen atom of the carboxylic acid moiety with another metal or an organic group.
  • the treatment can include the following methods:
  • a dry method including a step of mixing a fat ester oil with a powder using a Henschel mixer or a super mixer and subsequently drying the resulting mixture.
  • a method including a step of kneading using a kneader or an extruder and subsequent drying.
  • a method including a step of dispersing a powder in water or an organic solvent using a ball mill and a mechano-chemical mill such as a sand grinder and mixing the powder in a fat ester oil, and then removing the solvent and drying the resulting powder.
  • the surface treatment method herein referred to is not limited to these methods described above, as long as any such method is satisfactorily applicable to the surface treatment of base powder.
  • the base powder for surface treatment may be coated, for example, with at least one of oxides or hydrated oxides of aluminium, calcium, magnesium, cerium, silicone, zirconium, titanium, zinc, iron, cobalt, manganese, nickel and tin.
  • the fat ester oil surface treated powder is preliminary treated with classical surface treating agents and in particular with acylated aminoacids, with fatty acids, with fluorine compound, with lecithin, with polyethylene, with alkylsilane, with alkyl titanate, with ceramid, or with dextrin fatty acid ester or with silicone compounds.
  • the fat ester oil surface treated powder is preliminary treated with a surface treating agent chosen among acylated aminoacids, fatty acids, lecithin and dextrin fatty acid ester.
  • the preliminary treatment may be achieved with acylated aminoacids such as disodium steroyl glutamate, sodium palmoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl methyl alanine, sodium lauroyl lysine, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sacosinate.
  • acylated aminoacids such as disodium steroyl glutamate, sodium palmoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl methyl alanine, sodium lauroyl lysine, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sacosinate.
  • the amount of classical surface treating agent, in particular for acetylated aminoacids, may range from 0,1 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of surface treated powder.
  • the composition comprises non- preliminary treated powder, i.e. comprises only single surface treated powder with fat ester oil, and preferably single surface treated powder with isostearyl sebacate.
  • the composition comprises at least a double surface treated powder with acylated aminoacids and fat ester oil, and preferably a double surface treatment with disodium stearoyl glutamate and isostearyl sebacate.
  • the surface treated powder with fat ester oil may be in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount of at least 35% by weight, in particular ranging from 35 to 100% by weight, more particular from 40 to 95% by weight, even more particulary from 50 to 95% by weight and for example from 60 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surface treated powder with fat ester oil is in the cosmetic composition according to the invention in an amount of at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 95% by weight.
  • the fatty phase is also commonly called binder in a free form and serves in particular as dispersing medium for the particulate phase.
  • This fatty phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 5% by weight and especially from 0 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0 to 1% by weight relative the total weight of the composition.
  • free from binder is equivalent to comprising fatty phase or binder in an amount ranging from 0 to 5% and especially from 0 to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 0 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • binder in the framework of the present invention denotes the whole liquid and solid binder in a free form in the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, even in low amounts, a solid fatty phase also called "solid binder".
  • solid binder is understood to mean, for the purposes of the present invention, a fatty phase whose melting point may be greater than or equal to 3O 0 C, may vary especially from 30 to 25O 0 C and in particular from 30 to 23O 0 C.
  • This solid fatty phase may comprise at least one compound chosen from waxes, metallic soaps and mixtures thereof.
  • wax for the purposes of the present invention, is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at room temperature (25 0 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, that is 10 5 Pa), which has a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and which has in particular a melting point greater than or equal to 3O 0 C, especially greater than or equal to 55 0 C, and which may range up to 25O 0 C, especially up to 23O 0 C, and in particular up to 12O 0 C.
  • the melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the peak of melting measured with the aid of a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 1O 0 C per minute.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the waxes may be those generally used in the cosmetics or dermatological fields. They may be in particular hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based and/or fluorinated, optionally containing ester or hydroxyl functional groups. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • waxes there may be mentioned in particular: beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; Montana wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides which are concrete at 4O 0 C and in particular at more than 55 0 C, the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated copra oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • beeswax lanolin wax
  • Chinese waxes Chinese waxes
  • the solid fatty phase when present, comprises at least one compound chosen from carnauba wax, paraffin wax and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid fatty phase may comprise, when present, at least one wax which exists completely or partially in the form of a powder, in particular a micronized powder, in order to facilitate its use in the preparation of the cosmetic composition.
  • the waxes which can be used in powdered form there may be mentioned in particular the microbeads of Carnauba wax sold under the name MICROCARE 350 ® by the company Micro Powders and the microbeads of paraffin wax which are sold under the name MICROEASE 114S ® by the company Micro Powders.
  • the solid binder may also be chosen from metallic soaps.
  • metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the metal of the metallic soap may be in particular zinc or magnesium.
  • the fatty acid may be chosen in particular from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • metallic soap it is possible to use zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof.
  • the solid fatty phase when present may comprise at least one metallic soap which is present completely or partially in powdered form.
  • Liquid fatty phase Liquid fatty phase
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may additionally comprise a liquid fatty phase containing at least one oil.
  • This oil may be chosen from the oils conventionally used as binder in compact powders.
  • the fatty phase of the compact powder is a fatty phase which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • oils may be chosen in particular from: mink oil, turtle oil, soya bean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, groundnut oil; hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin oils, squalane, petroleum jelly, polydecene, in particular hydrogenated polydecene, such as "CERAFLOW E " marketed by the company Shamrock; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, isodecyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecycl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diiso
  • n represents an integer varying from 5 to 90, especially from 30 to 80 and in particular from 50 to 80
  • m represents an integer varying from 1 to 150, especially from 1 to 80, and in particular from 1 to 40
  • a represents an integer varying from 0 to 5
  • Rf denotes a perfluoroalkyl radical comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.
  • compounds of formula (1) which are particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned in particular those sold under the name X22-819 ® , X22-820 ® , X22-821 ® , X22-822 ® by the company SHIN-ETSU.
  • the composition according to the invention may be free of liquid fatty phase.
  • the liquid fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention contains oils choosen from natural oils, hydrocarbon oils, fatty esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof,.
  • the composition according to the present invention is free of any softening agent, and more particularly is free of softening agent comprising an aromatic group, for example a C ⁇ -aromatic group, optionally in combination with a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, for example containing from 2 to 120 carbon atoms, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
  • softening agent comprising an aromatic group, for example a C ⁇ -aromatic group, optionally in combination with a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, for example containing from 2 to 120 carbon atoms, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate.
  • composition of the invention may also contain, in addition to fat ester oil surface treated powders according to the invention, other powders either treated with classical surface treating agents and in particular with acylated aminoacids, with fatty acids, with fluorine compound, with lecithin, with polyethylene, with alkylsilane, with alkyl titanate, with ceramid, with dextrin fatty acid ester or with silicone compound, or non-treated powders.
  • the composition according to the invention can also comprise additional surface treated powder, i.e. additional surface treated fillers and additional surface treated pigments or mixture thereof.
  • the composition of the invention comprises powders treated with classical surface treating agents, in particular with acetylated aminoacids, with fatty acids, with lecithin or with dextrin fatty esters, for example mica treated with lecithin or titanium dioxide treated with acylated aminoacids, such as disodium stearoyl glutamate.
  • - powders treated with lecithin in particular mica (sericite) treated with hydrogenated lecithin such as the one commercialized under tradename LI-S-100 by Miyoshi Kasei,
  • silica and/or silicone treated powders such as titanium dioxide treated with silica and methicone, such as the one commercialized under tradename Luxelen Silk UV 02 by Nihon Koken Kogyo.
  • the additional surface treated powder can be present in the composition in an amount up to 65% by weight, for example ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the additional surface treated powder can be present in an amount ranging form 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the additional surface treated powder can be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a further embodiment, the composition contains less than 4% by weight of silicone surface treated powder, in particular less than 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one silicone surface treated powder
  • said composition advantageously contains less than 2% by weight in active substance of silicone surface treating agent, preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present disclosure can also comprise additional non surface treated powder, i.e. additional non surface treated fillers and pigments or mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain additional organic powders, such as silicon resin microspheres, in particular the ones under tradename Tospearl ® of Toshiba; and elastomer organopolysiloxane powders; and their mixtures.
  • additional organic powders such as silicon resin microspheres, in particular the ones under tradename Tospearl ® of Toshiba; and elastomer organopolysiloxane powders; and their mixtures.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane is advantageously non-emulsifying.
  • non-emulsifying denotes organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.
  • Spherical elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are especially described in patent applications JP-A-61-194 009, EP-A-O 242 219, EP-A-O 295 886 and EP-A-O 765 656, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
  • Elastomer organopolysiloxane powders that may be used include those sold under the names “Dow Corning 9505 Powder” and “Dow Corning 9506 Powder” by the company Dow Corning; these powders have the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • the elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder may advantageously comprise at least one elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, especially with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent US 5 538 793, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
  • Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names "KSP-100”, “KSP-101", “KSP-102”, “KSP-103", “KSP-104" and “KSP-105" by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
  • elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may be powders of hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, sold especially under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin-Etsu; powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with phenyl groups, sold especially under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin-Etsu.
  • the additional non surface treated powder can be present in the composition in an amount up to 65% by weight, for example ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment of the present disclosure, the additional non surface treated powder can be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In another embodiment of the present disclosure, the additional non surface treated powder can be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pearlescent pigments » should be understood to mean iridescent particles of any shape, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized and which produce a colour effect by optical interference.
  • the pearlescent agents may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with metal oxides such as iron oxide or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Mention may also be made of pigments with effects, such as:
  • - particles with a metal tint chosen from particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative or particles comprising an organic or mineral, single-material or multi-material substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metal tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, - reflective pigments,
  • These pigments with effects in particular the particles with a metal tint, may be in the form of flakes.
  • the total amount of fat ester oil surface treated powder, additional non surface treated powder and additional surface treated powder, herein after referenced to the "particulate phase” ranges from 70 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 80 to 100% by weight and more particularly from 90 to 100% by weight.
  • At least 60% by weight relative ot the total weight of the particulate phase is mineral, preferably at least 80% by weight, and more preferably at least 95% by weight.
  • composition can comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) commonly used in cosmetics, such as waxes, preservatives, cosmetic active principles, moisturizing agents, UV screening agents, thickeners, water, surfactants or fragrances.
  • ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as waxes, preservatives, cosmetic active principles, moisturizing agents, UV screening agents, thickeners, water, surfactants or fragrances.
  • composition according to the present disclosure can be an anhydrous composition, such as a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, such as less than 0.5% of water or devoid of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the ingredients mixed.
  • anhydrous composition such as a composition comprising less than 2% by weight of water, such as less than 0.5% of water or devoid of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water introduced by the ingredients mixed.
  • composition in the form of a compact powder can be prepared by mixing the ingredients of the pulverulent phase (surface treated pigments, fillers and other pigments) and by then adding the optional fatty phase with stirring, the mixture subsequently being milled, sieved, then poured into a dish and compacted.
  • the pulverulent phase surface treated pigments, fillers and other pigments
  • the milled and sieved mixture of the pulverulent phase and of the fatty phase is compacted using a press, such as by applying a pressure ranging from 0.5 MPa to 10 MPa. In one embodiment, the milled and sieved mixture of the pulverulent phase and of the fatty phase is compacted using a pressure ranging from 1 MPa to 5 MPa.
  • the composition thus obtained is provided in the form of a compact powder.
  • the drop test is used for measuring the cohesion of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention is a compact powder characterized by a cohesion corresponding to a loss of mass, evaluated by the drop test, of less than 10% by weight.
  • the drop test consists in subjecting the compact powder, which is placed in a pan (diameter 57 mm; high 4.7 mm), to 10 standardized drops over a height of 20 cm onto a sandstone floor tile of 30 mm thick; the base of the pan being oriented toward the receiving surface of the sandstone floor file. The loss of mass of product is then measured, after which the percentage loss of mass of powder is determined.
  • compositions according to the invention may have a loss of mass in the drop test of less than 10% by weight, especially less than 8% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, this reflecting good cohesion properties.
  • Figure 1 represents a graph of the dropping strength (dropped times after which the compact powder is broken) in function of the increasing amount of 7% NHS treated talc.
  • Figure 2 represents a graph of the loss mass of the broken compact powders (after 10 dropped times) in function of of the increasing amount of 7% NHS treated talc.
  • Example 1 surface treatment powders and cohesion of the composition Sample A: non treated powders (control)
  • the fat ester oil surface treated powder as used in the present example is NHS treated Talc JA-46R.
  • sample B (invention)
  • the compact powder is broken after 20 dropped times, so 10 times more than in the control.
  • Example 2 Amount of fat ester oil surface treated powders and compactability 5 samples C, D, E, F, G were tested containing several amounts of 7% NHS treated talc (X ranging from 30% to 70%).
  • the fat ester oil surface treated powder as used in the present example is NHS treated Talc JA-46R.
  • the figure 1 makes evidence that the strengh and cohesion of the compact powder is increased with the amount of 7% NHS treated talc; better results are obtained with an amount higher than 40% by weight of 7% NHS treated talc in total weight of the composition.
  • the figure 2 makes evidence that a loss of mass of 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, after 10 dropped times, should be obtained for a compact powder containing an amount around 35% by weight of 7% NHS treated talc in total weight of the composition.
  • Example 3 Sensorial evaluation of formulations according to the invention
  • Panel 10 women of 25-45 years old who did not have very dry or oily skin, and users of compact powder foundation more than 5 days a week.
  • Makeup finish The respondents felt that the makeup finish looked like bare skin and natural; the product did not make the face look powdery/cakey, concealed [light color] skin imperfections and toned complexion evenly. The efficacy of concealing [pores] was relatively effective. The layer was even. The product gave neither matte nor shine, and was closed to the base skin look.
  • compositions of formula 1 to 3 appear to last long during the day. More particularly, the face got less greasy or shiny, the product demonstrated a satisfaying adherence to the skin with a good and smooth spreadability. Finally, the makeup finish was estimated as natural, in particular not powdery and a comfort feeling was achieved with a sensation of light and non sticky product.

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Abstract

La présente invention porte sur une composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une poudre compacte de maquillage et/ou de soin de la peau, comprenant moins de 5 % en poids, de préférence moins de 3 % en poids de liant sous forme libre par rapport au poids total de la composition et au moins une poudre traitée en surface dans une quantité d'au moins 35 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition, ladite poudre étant un agent de remplissage et/ou un pigment, ladite ou lesdites poudres traitées en surface étant revêtues d'une huile d'ester gras. La présente invention porte de plus sur un procédé cosmétique de maquillage et/ou de soin de la peau comprenant au moins une étape d'application sur la peau d'au moins une composition selon la présente invention.
PCT/IB2008/054942 2008-11-25 2008-11-25 Poudre compacte exempte de liant sous forme libre Ceased WO2010061242A1 (fr)

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PCT/IB2008/054942 WO2010061242A1 (fr) 2008-11-25 2008-11-25 Poudre compacte exempte de liant sous forme libre

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CN112640892A (zh) * 2020-12-14 2021-04-13 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 淡香型鲜花的干花及其制备方法

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JP2013542970A (ja) * 2010-11-17 2013-11-28 ロレアル 顔および目をケアおよび／またはメイクアップするための化粧用組成物
CN112640892A (zh) * 2020-12-14 2021-04-13 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 淡香型鲜花的干花及其制备方法

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