[go: up one dir, main page]

WO2009092750A1 - Composition de défrisage - Google Patents

Composition de défrisage Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2009092750A1
WO2009092750A1 PCT/EP2009/050691 EP2009050691W WO2009092750A1 WO 2009092750 A1 WO2009092750 A1 WO 2009092750A1 EP 2009050691 W EP2009050691 W EP 2009050691W WO 2009092750 A1 WO2009092750 A1 WO 2009092750A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
composition
mole
amino
silicone
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2009/050691
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Cheryl Anne Taylor
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Hindustan Unilever Ltd
Unilever NV
Original Assignee
Hindustan Unilever Ltd
Unilever NV
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Hindustan Unilever Ltd, Unilever NV filed Critical Hindustan Unilever Ltd
Publication of WO2009092750A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009092750A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to a hair relaxing kit.
  • Hair relaxers are compositions used to relax or straighten curly or kinky hair. Most hair relaxers straighten hair by disrupting disulfide bonds of the hair fibres with an alkaline agent or reducing agent. The chemical disruption of disulfide bonds is usually combined with mechanical straightening of the hair (e.g. by combing) . The straightening process is generally terminated by rinsing and/or the application of a neutralizing composition.
  • a source of hydroxide ions is usually the preferred alkaline agent used to straighten hair.
  • the term "lanthionizing" is used when referring to hair relaxed or straightened by hydroxide ions, as the straightening reaction sequence with hydroxide ions results in lanthionine residue formation.
  • compositions are in the form of gels or emulsions and contain varying proportions of strong water- soluble bases, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) .
  • strong water- soluble bases such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
  • slightly-soluble metal hydroxides such as calcium hydroxide (Ca(OH) 2 ), which can be converted in situ to soluble bases, such as guanidine hydroxide .
  • a key problem with hair relaxers is that they leave the hair treated therewith feeling rough, unconditioned and brittle.
  • the present invention relates to hair relaxing systems which leave the hair less prone to breakage and feeling smooth.
  • the present invention relates to a hair relaxing kit comprising two compositions: i) the first composition comprising a hair relaxing composition; and ii) the second composition comprising emulsified particles of an amino functional silicone of general formula:
  • x + y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in which the amino functional silicone has a mole % amine functionality of at least 1 mole % and a nonamino functionalised silicone.
  • a further aspect of the invention relates to a method for relaxing hair comprising the following steps:
  • x + y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in which the amino functional silicone has a mole % amine functionality of at least 1 mole % and a non-amino functionalised silicone.
  • the present invention relates to post- treatment composition for application after application of a relaxing composition.
  • "relaxing composition” means a composition comprising at least one hydroxide ion generator in an amount sufficient to effect lanthionization of keratin fibres.
  • post-treatment refers to a treatment applied to the hair after the lathionization process, and preferably after any subsequent termination process.
  • the hydroxide ion generator may be chosen from those compositions that produce hydroxide ions appropriate for the lanthionization of hair.
  • hydroxide ion generator refers to both compounds and compositions that generate hydroxide ions, and compounds and compositions that comprise hydroxide ions. Hydroxide ion generators may, for example, be chosen from traditional "lye” and “no lye” hair relaxer compositions and other soluble or slightly soluble hydroxide ion sources. Preferred hydroxide ion generators are strong water- soluble bases, particularly preferred is sodium hydroxide.
  • the post lanthionization composition comprises amino functional silicone.
  • Post-lanthionization compositions include emulsified particles of an amino functionalised silicone of general formula: Si (CH 3 ) 3 -0-[Si (CH 3 ) 2 -0-] x- [Si (CH 3 ) (R-NH CH 2 CH 2 NH 2 ) -0-] y-Si (CH 3 ) 3 wherein x + y is a number from about 50 to about 500, and wherein R is an alkylene group having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • the number x + y is in the range of from about to about 300.
  • the amino functional silicone is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the hair conditioning composition and so is present in an emulsified form, with the silicone present as dispersed particles.
  • Amino functional silicones suitable for use in the invention need to have a mole percent amino functionality of at least 1.0 mole %.
  • the mole percent amino functionality of the amino functional silicone ranges from 1 to 8.0 mole %, preferably from 1 to 5.0 mole %, such as 1.7 mole %.
  • Pre-formed emulsions of amino functionalised silicone are available from suppliers of silicone oils such as Dow Corning, General Electric, Union Carbide, Wacker Chemie, Shin Etsu, Toshiba, Toyo Beauty Co, and Toray Silicone Co. Examples include emulsions DC2-8320, DC2-8306, DC2-8177 and DC2-8467, all available from Dow Corning.
  • Emulsified, non-amino functionalised silicone Hair conditioning compositions of the invention may suitably also comprise emulsified particles of a non-amino functionalised silicone, which is insoluble in the aqueous matrix of the composition and so is present in an emulsified form, with the silicone present as dispersed particles.
  • Suitable non-amino functionalised silicones include polydiorganosiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes which have the CTFA designation dimethicone.
  • Also suitable for use in hair conditioning compositions of the invention are polydimethyl siloxanes having hydroxyl end groups, which have the CTFA designation dimethiconol .
  • silicone gums having a slight degree of cross-linking, as are described for example in WO 96/31188. These materials can impart body, volume and stylability to hair, as well as good wet and dry conditioning.
  • the viscosity of the emulsified non-amino functionalised silicone itself is typically at least 10,000 cst. In general we have found that conditioning performance increases with increased viscosity. Accordingly, the viscosity of the silicone itself is preferably at least 60,000 cst, most preferably at least 500,000 cst, ideally at least 1,000,000 cst. Preferably the viscosity does not exceed 109 cst for ease of formulation.
  • Emulsified non-amino functional silicones for use in hair conditioning compositions of the invention will typically have an average silicone particle size in the composition of less than 30, preferably less than 20, more preferably less than 10 microns. Again, we have found that reducing the particle size generally improves conditioning performance. Most preferably the average silicone particle size of the emulsified non-amino functional silicone in the composition is less than 2 microns, ideally it ranges from 0.01 to 1 micron. Suitable non-amino functional silicone emulsions for use in the invention are also commercially available in a pre-emulsified form.
  • Suitable pre-formed emulsions include emulsions DC2-1766, DC2-1784, and microemulsions DC2-1865 and DC21870, all available from Dow Corning. These are all emulsions/microemulsions of dimethiconol .
  • Cross-linked silicone gums are also available in a pre-emulsified form, which is advantageous for ease of formulation. Preferred examples of these materials available from Dow Corning are DC X21787, (which is an emulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum) and DC 2-7121.
  • a further preferred example is the material available from Dow Corning as DC X2-1391, which is a microemulsion of cross-linked dimethiconol gum.
  • the total amount of silicone (amino functional and non-amino functional, if present) incorporated into the hair conditioning compositions of the invention depends on the level of conditioning desired and the material used. A preferred amount is from 0.01 to about 10% by weight of the total composition although these limits are not absolute. The lower limit is determined by the minimum level to achieve conditioning and the upper limit by the maximum level to avoid making the hair and/or skin unacceptably greasy. We have found that preferably a total amount of silicone of from 0.3 to 8 wt% -, more preferably 2 to 7wt%, by weight of the total composition is a suitable level.
  • Conditioning surfactants are preferably selected from cationic surfactants, used singly or in admixture.
  • Suitable cationic surfactants for use in hair conditioning compositions of the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethy1ammonium chloride, tallowtrimethylammonium chloride, cocotrimethylammonium chloride, and the corresponding hydro
  • cationic surfactant for use in hair conditioners of the invention are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride
  • the level of cationic surfactant is preferably from 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 5%, most preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight based on total weight of the composition.
  • Hair conditioning compositions of the invention advantageously incorporate a fatty alcohol material.
  • fatty alcohol materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning compositions is believed to be especially advantageous, because this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase, in which the cationic surfactant is dispersed.
  • Representative fatty alcohols comprise from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 16 to 20. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof. The use of these materials is also advantageous in that they contribute to the overall conditioning properties of compositions of the invention. Alkoxylated, (e.g.
  • ethoxylated or propoxylated) fatty alcohols having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain can be used in place of, or in addition to, the fatty alcohols themselves. Suitable examples include ethylene glycol cetyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (24) cetyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • the level of fatty alcohol and/or alkoxylated fatty alcohol material in conditioners of the invention is conveniently from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fatty alcohol and/or alkoxylated fatty alcohol is suitably from 10:1 to 1:10, preferably from 4:1 to 1:8, optimally from 1:1 to 1:4.
  • compositions of this invention may contain any other ingredient normally used in hair treatment formulations.
  • These other ingredients may include viscosity modifiers, preservatives, colouring agents, polyols such as glycerine and polypropylene glycol, chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants, fragrances, and sunscreens.
  • chelating agents such as EDTA, antioxidants, fragrances, and sunscreens.
  • compositions of this invention also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care.
  • adjuvants suitable for hair care Generally such ingredients are included individually at a level of up to 2%, preferably up to 1%, by weight of the total composition.
  • suitable hair care adjuvants are: (i) natural hair root nutrients, such as amino acids and sugars.
  • suitable amino acids include arginine, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, serine and valine, and/or precursors and derivatives thereof.
  • the amino acids may be added singly, in mixtures, or in the form of peptides, e.g. di-and tripeptides.
  • the amino acids may also be added in the form of a protein hydrolysate, such as a keratin or collagen hydrolysate.
  • Suitable sugars are glucose, dextrose and fructose. These may be added singly or in the form of, e.g. fruit extracts.
  • a particularly preferred combination of natural hair root nutrients for inclusion in compositions of the invention is isoleucine and glucose.
  • a particularly preferred amino acid nutrient is arginine .
  • - hair fibre benefit agents are : -ceramides, for moisturising the fibre and maintaining cuticle integrity. Ceramides are available by extraction from natural sources, or as synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides .
  • a preferred ceramide is Ceramide II, ex Quest. Mixtures of ceramides may also be suitable, such as Ceramides LS, ex Laboratoires Serobi unanimouss .
  • fatty acids for cuticle repair and damage prevention.
  • Examples are branched chain fatty acids such as 18 methyleicosanoic acid and other homologues of this series, straight chain fatty acids such as stearic, myristic and palmitic acids, and unsaturated fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • a preferred fatty acid is oleic acid.
  • the fatty acids may be added singly, as mixtures, or in the form of blends derived from extracts of, e.g. lanolin.
  • Mixtures of any of the above active ingredients may also be used.
  • a particularly preferred combination is arginine and oleic acid.
  • This post treatment composition may be in any form preferably in the form chosen from emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, creams, and pastes.
  • a preferred method of terminating the lanthionization process is by rinsing the hair with water.
  • Each switch was coated directly with 5gms of relaxer cream as in table 1 containing 2.2% Sodium hydroxide. The cream was applied directly to the switches using a brush. The switch was then flipped over and the application of cream repeated. Total weight of relaxer applied was lOgms.
  • the switches were rinsed with tepid running water for 1 minute, followed by treating with commercially provided neutralising shampoo for 30 seconds. The switches were then again rinsed before towel drying. The treated switches were then allowed to dry in a vertical position for 45 minutes in a drying cabinet with a temperature setting of 50 0 C before re applying the relaxer cream. This was repeated until all 4 switches have had 3 applications of relaxer cream applied. The switches were then treated with a final relaxing process: commercial relaxer cream applied for 30 minutes, rinsed for 1 minute, lathered for 30 seconds with commercial neutralising shampoo. One set was then allowed to dry as above, no further action was taken. The remaining sets of 4 switches were then treated to a further post treatment of conditioner as exemplified in the tables below.
  • 1 is a lmm dimethiconol emulsion with a polyoxytheylene polyoxypropylene copolymer.
  • Example 1 versus Example A Example 1
  • Example 1 versus Example B
  • Examples of the invention give enhanced protection against weight loss, broken fibres and split ends.

Landscapes

  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention porte sur un coffret de défrisage comprenant deux compositions : i) la première composition comprend une composition de défrisage; et ii) la seconde composition comprend des particules émulsifiées d'un silicone à fonctionnalité amino de formule générale : Si(CH3)3-O-[Si(CH3)2-O-]x-[Si(CH3)(R-NH-CH2CH2NH2)-O-]y-Si(CH3)3, dans laquelle x + y est un nombre d'environ 50 à environ 500, et dans laquelle R est un groupe alkylène ayant de 2 à 5 atomes de carbone, le silicone à fonctionnalité amino ayant une fonctionnalité amine en % en moles d'au moins 1 % en moles et un silicone non fonctionnalisé par amino.
PCT/EP2009/050691 2008-01-25 2009-01-22 Composition de défrisage Ceased WO2009092750A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP08150647.9 2008-01-25
EP08150647 2008-01-25

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2009092750A1 true WO2009092750A1 (fr) 2009-07-30

Family

ID=39535838

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2009/050691 Ceased WO2009092750A1 (fr) 2008-01-25 2009-01-22 Composition de défrisage

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO2009092750A1 (fr)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4770873A (en) * 1983-06-15 1988-09-13 Clairol, Incorporated Neutralizing composition and method for hair waving and straightening
US20030044373A1 (en) * 2000-05-18 2003-03-06 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Hair treatment compositions
JP2003238368A (ja) * 2002-02-15 2003-08-27 Mandom Corp 縮毛矯正剤組成物及び縮毛矯正剤
WO2005025524A1 (fr) * 2003-09-15 2005-03-24 Unilever Plc Procede pour etirer les cheveux au moyen de compositions contenant un acide alpha-hydroxy et un agent de reduction

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4770873A (en) * 1983-06-15 1988-09-13 Clairol, Incorporated Neutralizing composition and method for hair waving and straightening
US20030044373A1 (en) * 2000-05-18 2003-03-06 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Hair treatment compositions
JP2003238368A (ja) * 2002-02-15 2003-08-27 Mandom Corp 縮毛矯正剤組成物及び縮毛矯正剤
WO2005025524A1 (fr) * 2003-09-15 2005-03-24 Unilever Plc Procede pour etirer les cheveux au moyen de compositions contenant un acide alpha-hydroxy et un agent de reduction

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
DATABASE WPI Week 200416, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 2004-159924, XP002486397 *

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
AU739034B2 (en) Hair conditioning compositions
CN101945643B (zh) 加热处理毛发时减少毛发损伤的方法
JP7543272B2 (ja) 毛髪の沈着システム
US20070028938A1 (en) Method of straightening hair with compositions comprising an alpha-hydroxy acid and a reducing agent
WO2004047777A1 (fr) Préparation cosmétique pour les cheveux
US20090041701A1 (en) Hair care composition
JP5746684B2 (ja) ヘアスタイリング組成物
JP4625357B2 (ja) 毛髪化粧料
US20090041713A1 (en) Hair Care Composition
CN102089036B (zh) 包含三类聚硅氧烷的头发调理组合物
JP4177810B2 (ja) フェノールスタイリング剤含有ヘアケア組成物
JP5875303B2 (ja) 毛髪用化粧料
JP4926371B2 (ja) 毛髪化粧料
EA024185B1 (ru) Способ обработки волос
JP6735101B2 (ja) 毛髪化粧料
WO2009092750A1 (fr) Composition de défrisage
EP3638196B1 (fr) Préparation de conditionnement des cheveux
JP2004143065A (ja) 毛髪化粧料
WO2014020081A2 (fr) Composition
US20090044822A1 (en) Hair care composition
HK1118717B (en) Hair cosmetic
HK1118717A1 (zh) 毛发化妆品

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
DPE2 Request for preliminary examination filed before expiration of 19th month from priority date (pct application filed from 20040101)
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 09703735

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 09703735

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1