WO2008148805A2 - Kit comprising alpha-alkoxysilane functionalized compounds x and y - Google Patents
Kit comprising alpha-alkoxysilane functionalized compounds x and y Download PDFInfo
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- WO2008148805A2 WO2008148805A2 PCT/EP2008/056920 EP2008056920W WO2008148805A2 WO 2008148805 A2 WO2008148805 A2 WO 2008148805A2 EP 2008056920 W EP2008056920 W EP 2008056920W WO 2008148805 A2 WO2008148805 A2 WO 2008148805A2
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
- A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
- A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
- A61K8/893—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by an alkoxy or aryloxy group, e.g. behenoxy dimethicone or stearoxy dimethicone
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
- A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
- C08G77/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon in the main chain of the macromolecule
- C08G77/04—Polysiloxanes
- C08G77/22—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to organic groups containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen and oxygen
- C08G77/26—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to organic groups containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen and oxygen nitrogen-containing groups
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
- C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
- C08L83/00—Compositions of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming in the main chain of the macromolecule a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon only; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- C08L83/04—Polysiloxanes
- C08L83/08—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to organic groups containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen and oxygen
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers
Definitions
- Kit comprising alpha-alkoxysilane functionalized compounds X and Y
- the present invention relates to a kit for coating keratin materials, in particular for non-therapeutic keratin material makeup or care, comprising at least two compositions and at least two alkoxysilane functionalized compounds X and Y that are capable of reacting together via condensation.
- compositions according to the invention may be compositions for making up or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the nails.
- Each composition may be a loose or compacted powder, a foundation, a makeup rouge, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a body makeup product or a skin colouring product .
- the care composition may be a product for caring for the eyelashes or the lips, or a bodily and facial skincare product, especially an antisun product.
- Lipstick and foundation compositions are commonly used for giving an aesthetic colour to the lips or the skin, especially to the face.
- These makeup products generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and/or fillers and optionally additives, for instance cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
- these compositions When they are applied to the skin, these compositions have the drawback of transferring, i.e. of at least partly coming off, leaving marks, on certain supports with which they may come into contact and especially a glass, a cup, a cigarette, an item of clothing or the skin. This results in mediocre persistence of the applied film, making it necessary to regularly freshen the application of the foundation or lipstick composition. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable marks, especially on blouse collars, may put certain women off using this type of makeup.
- Transfer-resistant lip and skin makeup compositions are thus sought, which have the advantage of forming a deposit that does not come off, at least partly, onto the supports with which they come into contact (glass, clothing, cigarette or fabrics) and that has good staying power.
- mascaras that are anhydrous or that have a low content of water and/or water-soluble solvents, which are referred to as "waterproof mascaras", are known, which are formulated in the form of a dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents and which show good resistance to water and/or to sebum.
- the aim of the present invention is to provide a novel route for formulating cosmetic compositions, especially makeup compositions, enabling the production of a film deposited on keratin materials, which has good transfer- resistance properties and good properties of staying power over time, in particular with respect to water and rubbing, and which leaves a comfortable deposit on the skin, the lips, the eyelashes or the nails.
- compounds X and Y may be present in the same composition or in two different compositions referred to as the first and second compositions.
- a subject of the present invention is a kit for coating keratin materials, comprising: - at least one first composition and at least one second composition that are conditioned separately,
- the kit comprising at least one compound (X) , at least one compound (Y) , and optionally at least one catalyst,
- At least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, R 1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and Z is chosen from: -CH 2 -, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
- the groups R 9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH 2 - and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
- compounds X and Y as described above show improved reactivity, without it being necessary to use large amounts of catalyst to trigger the condensation reaction with each other, or even without using catalyst.
- Compound (s) X and compound (s) Y may be applied to the keratin materials using several compositions containing compound (s) X or compound (s) Y, together or as a mixture, or using a single composition containing compound (s) X and compound (s) Y.
- Compound (s) X and compound (s) Y may in particular be present in the first and/or in the second composition.
- the catalyst (s), when present, may be included in one or the other of the first and second compositions applied to the keratin materials or in an additional composition, in which case the order of application of the various compositions to the keratin materials is irrelevant .
- this catalyst is preferably not present in the same composition as compounds X and Y .
- the catalysts advantageously chosen are those described later.
- At least one additional reactive compound as defined below is applied to the keratin materials.
- the additional reactive compound (s) may be present in one or the other or in each first and second composition applied to the keratin materials or in an additional composition, in which case the order of application of the various compositions to the keratin materials is irrelevant.
- the kit also comprises an
- compositions for removing the coating obtained on the keratin materials by reaction of compounds X and Y the said composition preferably comprising at least one organic solvent or oil chosen from the organic solvents and oils described later.
- an additional composition comprising an aqueous phase is applied to the keratin materials.
- Each composition of the kit may be conditioned separately in the same packaging article, for example in a two-compartment pen, the base composition being delivered via one end of the pen and the top composition being delivered via the other end of the pen, each end being closed, especially in a leaktight manner, with a lid.
- Each composition may also be conditioned in a compartment within the same packaging article, the mixing of the two compositions taking place at the end(s) of the packaging article during the delivery of each composition.
- the packaging article (s) may be watertight and/or airtight.
- each composition may be conditioned in a separate packaging article.
- composition for coating keratin materials comprising:
- the said compounds which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds
- X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
- R 1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
- Z is chosen from: -CH 2 -, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
- the groups R 9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH 2 - and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , and optionally at least one catalyst.
- At least one of the compounds X and Y may be present in an encapsulated form.
- the two compounds X and Y are both present in separate encapsulated forms .
- compounds X and/or Y may be present in the form of microcapsules and especially of nanocapsules of core/shell type, the core of lipophilic nature containing compound X or compound Y.
- a subject of the invention is also the use of a kit or a composition as described above, for obtaining a film deposited on keratin materials, which has improved staying power, gloss and/or comfort properties.
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, which consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one coat of a mixture of a first composition and of a second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst,
- the said compounds which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and
- At least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
- R 1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
- Z is chosen from: a -CH 2 - group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
- the groups R 9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH 2 - and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , the said mixture being obtained either extemporaneously before application to the keratin materials, or simultaneously with its application to the keratin materials .
- Compounds X and Y may be present in the same composition, for example in the first composition, and the catalyst, when one is present, may be in the second composition. According to another embodiment, compounds X and Y are present in separate compositions, the catalyst being present in an additional composition or in one of the compositions comprising X or Y.
- the catalyst when it is present, is not in the same composition as compounds X and Y.
- compounds X and Y are mixed extemporaneously and the mixture is then applied to the keratin materials.
- a subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, which consists in: a. extemporaneously mixing at least one first composition and at least one second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst, the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, R 1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and Z is chosen
- the groups R 9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH 2 - and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , and then b. applying at least one coat of the said mixture to the said keratin materials.
- a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials: a. of at least one coat of a first composition; b.
- each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst, the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups per polymer molecule, the said groups having the formula
- radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group
- R 1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
- Z is chosen from: a -CH 2 - group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
- the groups R 9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH 2 - and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
- the order of application of the first and second compositions is irrelevant.
- At least one additional coat of at least one composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, and preferably at least one film- forming polymer and at least one organic solvent (or oily) or aqueous medium, is applied to the coat(s) of the composition (s) comprising compounds X and/or Y in order, for example, to improve the staying power, gloss and/or comfort thereof.
- the processes according to the invention also comprise the application of an additional composition comprising an aqueous phase .
- each composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium that may be applied to human keratin materials, and which has a pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
- a cosmetically acceptable medium i.e. a non-toxic medium that may be applied to human keratin materials, and which has a pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
- At least one of the compounds X and Y is a silicone compound .
- silicon compound means a compound comprising at least two organosiloxane units.
- compound X and compound Y are silicone-based.
- Compounds X and compounds Y may be amine or non-amine compounds .
- At least one of the compounds X and Y comprises at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups of formula (I) as described above, which are alpha- alkoxysilane functionalized groups.
- alkoxysilane functionalized reactive group means a group comprising at least one alkoxysilane group, i.e. a group comprising at least one silicon atom bonded to at least one group OR, R being an alkyl containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 and better still from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, each silicon atom possibly being bonded to one, two or three groups OR (monoalkoxysilane, dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane groups) .
- Each alkoxysilane functionalized reactive group A may comprise 1, 2 or 3 alkoxysilane groups, i.e. may comprise 1, 2 or 3 silicon atoms each bonded to at least one group OR, as defined above.
- Compounds X and Y are capable of reacting via condensation, either in the presence of water (hydrolysis) by reaction of two compounds bearing alkoxysilane functionalized groups, or via "direct” condensation by reaction of a compound bearing alkoxysilane group (s) and of a compound bearing silanol group (s) (Si-OH), preferably at least two silanol groups .
- Compounds X and Y which may be identical or different, may be chosen from compounds whose main chain comprises at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups, as described above, and/or at least two silanol groups.
- the alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups and/or the silanol groups may be located at the ends of the main chain of the compound (end group) and/or are pendent on the main chain (side group) .
- At least one of the compounds X and/or Y comprises at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups located at the ends of the main chain of the compound .
- compound X and compound Y each comprise at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups .
- each compound X and Y comprises an alkoxysilane functionalized reactive group at each of its ends.
- the alkoxysilane functionalized groups correspond to formula (I) : in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
- R 1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
- Z is chosen from: -CH 2 -, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) below:
- R 9 being as described above, the groups R 9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH 2 - and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
- the groups R 9 independently represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
- Alkyl groups that may especially be mentioned include methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and hexyl , and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl or ethyl .
- a fluoroalkyl group that may be mentioned is 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl .
- Z is preferably a -CH 2 - group.
- R is a methyl or ethyl group.
- x is equal to 0.
- At least one of the compounds X and Y is a polymer whose main chain is predominantly formed from organosiloxane units.
- X and Y are polyorganosiloxanes .
- compounds X and/or Y preferably predominantly comprise units of formula in which R 9 independently represents a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, and s is equal to 0 , 1, 2 or 3.
- R 9 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms .
- Alkyl groups that may especially be mentioned include methyl, propyl, butyl, and hexyl , and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl or ethyl .
- a fluoroalkyl group that may be mentioned is 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl .
- Y which may be identical or different, are polyorgano- siloxanes comprising units of formula:
- R 9 is as described above, preferably R 9 is a methyl radical, and f is such that the polymer advantageously has a viscosity at 25 0 C ranging from 0.5 to 3000 Pa . s and preferably ranging from 5 to 150 Pa . s .
- f may range from 2 to 5000, particularly from 3 to 3000 and more particularly from 5 to 1000.
- Compounds X and/or Y may also comprise a mixture of polymer of formula (V) above with polymers of formula (VI) below:
- the various polyorganosiloxanes are present in contents such that the organosilyl end chains represent less than 40% and preferably less than 25% by number of the end chains .
- compounds X and Y may be identical or different.
- one of the two reactive compounds X or Y is of silicone nature and the other is of organic nature.
- compound X is chosen from organic oligomers or polymers or organic/silicone hybrid oligomers or polymers, the said polymers or oligomers comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups, which are preferably alpha- alkoxysilane functionalized groups of formula (I)
- Y is chosen from silicone compounds such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing alkoxysilane functionalized groups of formula (I) described above.
- the organic oligomers or polymers are chosen from vinyl, (meth) acrylic, polyester, polyamide, polyurethane and/or polyurea, polyether, polyolefin or perfluoropolyether oligomers or polymers, and hyperbranched organic dendrimers and polymers, and mixtures thereof .
- organic polymers of vinyl or (meth) acrylic nature bearing alkoxysilane functionalized groups may in particular be obtained via copolymerization of at least one organic vinyl or (meth) acrylic monomer with a vinyl or (meth) acrylic monomer bearing at least one alkoxysilane group, preferably an alpha-alkoxysilane group, in particular: a
- the organic polymers resulting from a polycondensation or a polyaddition may result, for example, from the reaction of an oligomeric prepolymer as described above with one of the following silane coreagents bearing at least one alkoxysilane functionalized group, preferably an alpha- alkoxysilane group, N-cyclohexylaminomethyl- triethoxysilane, aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, aminopropyltriethoxysilane, aminoethylaminopropyltrimethoxysilane, (isocyanatomethyl) methyldimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltri- ethoxysilane, epoxycyclohexylethyltrimethoxy
- Polyorganosiloxane compounds X and/or Y that may be mentioned include resins of MQ or MT type themselves bearing alkoxysilane and/or silanol ends, for instance the poly (isobutylsilsesquioxane) resins functionalized with silanol groups sold under the reference SST-S7C41 (3 Si-OH groups) by the company Gelest .
- At least one of the compounds X and Y bears at least one polar group capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with keratin materials.
- polar group means a group comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms in its chemical structure and at least one heteroatom (such as 0, N, S and P) , such that the said group is capable of establishing at least one hydrogen bond with keratin materials.
- Compounds bearing at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds are particularly advantageous, since they afford the compositions containing them better adhesion to keratin materials, by virtue of the ability of these groups to establish a hydrogen bond with keratin materials.
- the polar group (s) borne by at least one of the compounds X and Y is (are) capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, and comprise (s) either a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom, or an electronegative atom, for instance 0, N or S .
- the group comprises a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom
- the hydrogen atom may interact with another electronegative atom borne, for example, by another molecule, such as keratin, to form a hydrogen bond.
- the electronegative atom may interact with a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom borne, for example, by another molecule, such as keratin, to form a hydrogen bond.
- these polar groups may be chosen from the following groups:
- - alcohols such as: -CH 2 OH or -CH(R)OH, R being an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, - amino of formula -NRiR 2 , in which Ri and R 2 , which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or one of Ri or R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, - pyridino,
- Ri being an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms
- -ureyl such as -NR' -CO-N (R' ) 2
- R' which may be identical or different, being as defined above
- R' corresponding to the above definition, and combinations thereof.
- these polar groups are present in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example in a content ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of each compound X or Y.
- the polar group (s) may be located in the main chain of compound X and/or Y or may be pendent on the main chain or located at the ends of the main chain of compound X and/or Y.
- the mole percentage of X relative to all of the compounds X and Y i.e. the ratio X/ (X+Y) x 100, may range from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90% and better still from 20% to 80%.
- the mole percentage of Y relative to all of the compounds X and Y i.e. the ratio Y/ (X+Y) x 100, may range from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90% and better still from 20% to 80%.
- Compound X may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 150 to 1 000 000, preferably from 200 to 800 000 and more preferably from 200 to 250 000.
- Mw weight-average molecular mass
- Compound Y may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 200 to 1 000 000, preferably from 300 to 800 000 and more preferably from 500 to 250 000.
- Mw weight-average molecular mass
- Compound X may represent from 0.15% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it, in particular relative to the total weight of each first or second composition.
- Compound Y may represent from 0.15% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it, in particular relative to the total weight of each first or second composition.
- the ratio between compounds X and Y may be varied by modifying the rate of reaction and thus the rate of formation of the film, or alternatively so as to adapt the properties of the formed film (for example its adhesive properties) according to the desired application.
- the condensation reaction between compounds X and Y advantageously takes place in the presence of water.
- This water may in particular be ambient moisture, the residual water of the skin, the lips, the eyelashes and/or the nails, or water provided by an external source, for example by premoistening the keratin materials (for example with a composition comprising an aqueous phase, for example a water mister, or natural or artificial tears) .
- Compounds X and Y may react together at a temperature ranging between room temperature and 18O 0 C.
- compounds X and Y are capable of reacting together at room temperature (20+5 0 C) and atmospheric pressure. The reaction may take place at room temperature (25 0 C) .
- the condensation reaction between compounds X and Y is accelerated by providing heat, for example by raising the temperature of the system to between 3O 0 C and 18O 0 C and especially between 30 and 6O 0 C.
- composition (s) may be performed, for example, using means not specifically intended for heating, such as a hot body (a hot beverage or cup).
- a hot body a hot beverage or cup.
- the composition (s) may also be heated using a means specifically dedicated to heating, for example a hot-air propulsion means such as a hairdryer or a heating device, for instance a heating applicator.
- compositions that are useful in the present invention may also comprise an additional reactive compound comprising at least two alkoxysilane or silanol groups.
- Examples that may be mentioned include organic or mineral particles comprising at their surface alkoxysilane and/or silanol groups, for example fillers surface-treated with such groups.
- the condensation reaction may be performed in the presence of a metal-based catalyst, which may be present in the first and/or the second composition, or alternatively in an additional composition.
- the catalyst is especially chosen from organometallic compounds of metals such as titanium, tin and bismuth.
- tin-based catalysts and especially tin bis (2- ethylhexanoate) , tin bis (neodecanoate) , tin di-n- butylbis (2-ethylhexylmaleate) , tin di-n- butylbis (2 , 4-pentanedionate) , di-n- butylbutoxychlorotin, di-n-butyldiacetoxytin, di-n- butyldilauryltin, tin dimethyldineodecanoate, tin dimethylhydroxy (oleate) , dioctyllauryltin, dioctyldilauryltin, tin II oleate, and mixtures thereof.
- Such catalysts are sold by the company Gelest and described in its catalogue (Gelest, Reactive silicones: Forging new polymers links, Copyright 2004, p. 50), titanium-based
- catalysts that may be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of basic compounds, for instance primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines and aminosilanes, for instance aminopropyltrimethoxysilane or organic or mineral acids, in particular phosphoric acid and its derivatives.
- basic compounds for instance primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines and aminosilanes, for instance aminopropyltrimethoxysilane or organic or mineral acids, in particular phosphoric acid and its derivatives.
- the catalyst may be present in the composition comprising it in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.0005% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
- the first and/or second composition may also comprise a volatile silicone oil (or diluent) and/or a volatile or non-volatile organic oil, intended to reduce the viscosity of the composition.
- This oil may be chosen from linear short-chain silicones such as hexamethyldisiloxane or octamethyltrisiloxane, cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
- This silicone oil and/or organic oil may represent from 5% to 95% and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
- At least one of the first and second compositions advantageously comprises a liquid fatty phase.
- liquid fatty phase means a fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature (25 0 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , composed of one or more mutually compatible non-aqueous fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also known as organic solvents or oils .
- the oil may be chosen from volatile oils and/or nonvolatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
- the oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition.
- volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, with a nonzero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
- non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
- oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
- hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms.
- the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2 , 2 , 4 , 4 , 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by the company Shell, may also be used.
- the volatile solvent is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
- Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclo- pentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hepta- methylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof .
- R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms.
- oils of general formula (A) that may be mentioned are:
- Volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoro- methoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane may also be used.
- compositions used in the process according to the invention each have a volatile oil content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% and better still less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition.
- At least one of the first and second compositions used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
- Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those
- apolar hydrocarbon-based oils for instance squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and naphthalene oil, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, squalane, decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L- 14, and polydecenes such as Puresyn 10, and mixtures thereof ; - synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R 2 > 10, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C i2 to Ci 5 alkyl be
- octyldodecanol isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol , 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol ;
- the non-volatile silicone oils may be:
- polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms,
- phenylsilicones for instance phenyl trimethi- cones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy- diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl- methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl- siloxysilicates ;
- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes for instance polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl , thiol and/or amine groups ;
- the liquid fatty phase comprises an ester oil.
- This ester oil may be chosen from the esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols .
- the said ester corresponds to formula (VII) below: where Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted,
- R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of
- 1 to 40 carbon atoms preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
- Ri and/or R 2 can bear one or more substituents chosen, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from 0, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy and hydroxyl .
- the total number of carbon atoms of Ri + R 2 is > 9.
- Ri may represent the residue of a linear or, preferably, branched fatty acid, preferably a higher fatty acid, containing from 1 to 40 and even better from 7 to 19 carbon atoms
- R 2 may represent a linear or, preferably, branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40, preferably from 3 to 30 and even better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms.
- Examples of groups Ri are those derived from fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleostearic acid, arachidonic acid and erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- esters include purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols.
- purcellin oil cetostearyl octanoate
- isononyl isononanoate isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate
- 2-octyldodecyl stearate 2-octyldodecyl erucate
- isostearyl isostearate and heptanoates, oc
- the esters are chosen from the compounds of formula (VII) above, in which Ri represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and R 2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and even better of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds .
- Ri represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds
- R 2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and even better of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more
- Ri is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms and preferably of 8 to 10 carbon atoms
- R 2 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms and preferably of 9 to 11 carbon atoms.
- Ri-CO- and R 2 have the same number of carbon atoms and are derived from the same radical, preferably an unsubstituted branched alkyl, for example isononyl, i.e. the ester oil molecule is advantageously symmetrical.
- the non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight and even better still from 14% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition or relative to the total weight of the composition when X and Y are present in the same composition.
- At least one of the compositions may comprise an aqueous phase .
- the aqueous phase may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and/or of water- miscible solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25 0 C) , for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C 3 -C 4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.
- water- miscible solvent miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 25 0 C
- lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
- glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C 3
- the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water- miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 85% by weight and better still from 2% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
- the first and second compositions used in the process according to the invention are anhydrous.
- anhydrous means a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still being free of water.
- At least one of the compositions may also comprise at least one wax, which may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
- the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is in general a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25 0 C) , with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 3O 0 C that may be up to 12O 0 C.
- the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about
- the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company
- the measuring protocol is as follows:
- a 15 mg sample of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from O 0 C to 12O 0 C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 12O 0 C to O 0 C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from O 0 C to 12O 0 C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
- the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of product is measured as a function of the temperature.
- the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
- the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
- the wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa.
- the hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 2O 0 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
- the measuring protocol is as follows:
- the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +2O 0 C.
- the molten wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep.
- the wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 0 C) for 24 hours and is then kept at 2O 0 C for at least 1 hour before performing the hardness measurement.
- the hardness value is the maximum compression force measured divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
- Hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax,- rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.
- waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains.
- waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under
- waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of plant oils such as castor oil or olive oil may also be used, for instance the waxes obtained under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
- silicone waxes which may be advantageously substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. They are especially substituted linear polysiloxanes constituted essentially (apart from the end groups) of units of formulae (II) and (III), in the respective proportions m and n:
- each R' independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group -X-R", each X independently representing: -0-, -(CH 2 ) b -CO-O-, a and b independently represent numbers possibly ranging from 0 to 6 , and each R" independently represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
- - m is a number possibly ranging from 0 to 400 and in particular from 0 to 100
- - n is a number possibly ranging from 1 to 200 and in particular from 1 to 100, the sum (m+n) being less than 400 and in particular less than or equal to 100.
- silicone waxes are known or may be prepared according to the known methods.
- commercial silicone waxes of this type mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abil Wax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt) , KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu) or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric) .
- the silicone waxes that may be used may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (VIII) below:
- Ri represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or a group of formula:
- R 2 represents an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or a group of formula:
- a and b representing a number from 0 to 6
- R" being an alkyl containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms
- z is a number possibly ranging from 1 to 100.
- alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (Goldschmidt) or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker) , and also (C 20 -C 60 ) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C 30 -C 45 ) alkyl dimethicones, for instance the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.
- hydrocarbon-based waxes modified with silicone or fluoro groups for instance: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.
- the waxes may also be chosen from fluoro waxes.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one "tacky" wax, i.e. a wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.
- the tacky wax used may especially have a tack ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N.s, especially ranging from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N.s, especially ranging from 2 N.s to 10 N.s and in particular ranging from 2 N.s to 5 N.s.
- the tack of the wax is determined by measuring the change in force (compression force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 2O 0 C, using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i" by the company Rheo, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer spindle forming an angle of 45° .
- the measuring protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 1O 0 C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 0 C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 2O 0 C before measuring the tack.
- the texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of
- 0.5 mm/s then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm.
- the spindle is held still for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.
- the force decreases greatly until it becomes zero, and then, during the withdrawal of the spindle, the force
- the tack corresponds to the integral of the curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to negative values of the force (stretching force) .
- the tack value is expressed in N.s.
- the tacky wax that may be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, especially ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa or even ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.
- the hardness is measured according to the protocol described previously.
- a tacky wax that may be used is a C 2 O-C 40 alkyl
- hydroxystearyloxy (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) , alone or as a mixture, in particular a C 2 O-C 40 alkyl 12- (12 ' -hydroxystearyloxy) - stearate.
- Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ® and Kester Wax K 80 P ® by the company Koster Keunen .
- the waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than 45 0 C.
- the wax(es) may be in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax.
- aqueous microdispersion of wax means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size, expressed as the "effective" mean volume diameter D[4,3], of the said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 ⁇ m.
- Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are described especially in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.
- these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of a portion of water, followed by gradual addition of hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water- in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion, with final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in- water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid wax colloidal particles is obtained.
- the wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, high-pressure homogenizers or turbomixers .
- the particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have mean sizes of less than 1 ⁇ m (especially ranging from 0.02 ⁇ m to 0.99 ⁇ m) and preferably less than 0.5 ⁇ m (especially ranging from 0.06 ⁇ m to 0.5 ⁇ m) .
- These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may comprise a small proportion of oily and/or pasty fatty additives, a surfactant and/or a common liposoluble additive/active agent .
- the waxes may represent from 0.1% to 70% by weight, better still from 1% to 40% and even better still from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
- At least one of the compositions may comprise a film- forming polymer.
- film- forming polymer means a polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a continuous film that adheres to a support and especially to keratin materials.
- the film- forming polymer may be present in a solids content (or active material content) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
- free-radical film-forming polymer means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates) .
- the film- forming polymers of free-radical type may be, in particular, vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
- the vinyl film- forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acidic group and/or esters of these acidic monomers and/or amides of these acidic monomers .
- Monomers bearing an acidic group which may be used are ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid.
- (Meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferably used, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
- esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from (meth) acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth) acrylates) , especially (meth) acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a Ci-C 30 and preferably Ci-C 2 O alkyl, (meth) acrylates of an aryl , in particular of a C 6 -Ci 0 aryl, and (meth) acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl , in particular of a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.
- acrylic acid esters also known as (meth) acrylates
- alkyl in particular of a Ci-C 30 and preferably Ci-C 2 O alkyl
- acrylates of an aryl in particular of a C 6 -Ci 0 aryl
- a hydroxyalkyl in particular of a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.
- alkyl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned are methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate.
- hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
- aryl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
- the (meth) acrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are the alkyl (meth) acrylates .
- the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
- amides of the acid monomers are (meth) acrylamides, and especially N- alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of a C 2 -Ci 2 alkyl.
- N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t- octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide .
- the vinyl film- forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers .
- these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof, such as those mentioned above.
- vinyl esters examples include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate .
- Styrene monomers that may be mentioned are styrene and ⁇ -methylstyrene .
- polyurethanes examples include polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester- amides, polyamides, epoxyester resins and polyureas .
- the polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane- acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester- polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas and polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
- the polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
- the dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
- examples of such acids that may be mentioned are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2 , 2-dimethylglutaric acid, azeleic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclo- hexanedicarboxylic acid, 1, 4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5- norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2 , 5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or 2, 6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
- These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combination
- the diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols.
- the diol used is preferably chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1 , 3 -propanediol , cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol .
- Other polyols that may be used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane .
- the polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to that of the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.
- Diamines that may be used are ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine and meta- or para-phenylenediamine .
- An amino alcohol that may be used is monoethanolamine .
- the polyester may also comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one group -SO 3 M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion such as, for example, an Na + , Li + , K + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ or Fe 3+ ion.
- M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion such as, for example, an Na + , Li + , K + , Mg 2+ , Ca 2+ , Cu 2+ , Fe 2+ or Fe 3+ ion.
- a difunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M may be used in particular.
- the aromatic nucleus of the difunctional aromatic monomer also bearing a group -SO 3 M as described above may be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, biphenyl, oxybiphenyl, sulfonylbiphenyl and methylenebiphenyl nuclei.
- difunctional aromatic monomers also bearing a group -SO 3 M mention may be made of: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene- 2 , 7-dicarboxylic acid.
- copolymers preferably used are those based on isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol , isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid.
- the polymers of natural origin may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins and cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof .
- the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the first and/or second composition; the polymer is thus solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition.
- the film- forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents or oils such as those described above (the film-forming polymer is thus said to be a liposoluble polymer) .
- the liquid fatty phase preferably comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils possibly being chosen from those mentioned above.
- liposoluble polymers examples include copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (other than the vinyl ester already present) , an ⁇ -olefin (containing from 8 to 28 carbon atoms) , an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or an allylic or methallylic ester (containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) .
- copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of crosslinking agents, which may be either of the vinyl type or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octane- dioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecane- dioate.
- crosslinking agents may be either of the vinyl type or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octane- dioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecane- dioate.
- copolymers examples include the following copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/ octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/ 1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1 -dodecene, vinyl stearate/ ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2 , 2-dimethyloctan- oate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2 , 2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate,
- liposoluble film-forming polymers examples include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters containing from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and alkyl radicals containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
- Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from polyvinyl stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, polystearyl (meth) acrylate, polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl (meth) acrylate, it being possible for these poly (meth) acrylates to be crosslinked with the aid of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
- the liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are described in particular in patent application FR-A-2 232 303; they may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500 000 and preferably from 4000 to 200 000.
- liposoluble homopolymers and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters containing from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
- liposoluble homopolymers examples include: polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl (meth) acrylates, these poly (meth) acrylates possibly being crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
- the first and/or second composition of the process according to the invention comprises at least one polyvinyl laurate film- forming polymer.
- liposoluble film- forming polymers which may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C 2 -C 2 O alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C 2 to C 40 and better still C 3 to C 20 alkene .
- polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C 2 -C 2 O alkenes such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C 8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose
- VP vinylpyrrolidone
- V vinylpyrrolidone
- VP copolymers which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) , VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate .
- PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
- silicone resins which are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
- the nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ” , the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
- polymethylsilsesqui- oxane resins examples include those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK; by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-220L.
- Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethyl siloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR 1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF- 7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, and DC 749 and DC 593 by the company Dow Corning .
- TMS trimethyl siloxysilicate
- silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethyl- siloxanes, for instance the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference Bio-PSA and described in document US 5 162 410, or the silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane, as described in document WO 2004/073 626.
- silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680.
- silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
- the film- forming polymer is a film- forming linear block ethylenic polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block with different glass transition temperatures (Tg) , the said first and second blocks being linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.
- Tg glass transition temperatures
- the first and second blocks of the block polymer are mutually incompatible.
- Such polymers are described, for example, in document EP 1 411 069 or WO 04/028 488.
- the film- forming polymer may also be present in the first and/or second composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, which is generally known as a latex or pseudolatex.
- aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase
- latex or pseudolatex The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
- Aqueous dispersions of film- forming polymers that may be used include the acrylic dispersions sold under the
- Neocryl XK-90 Neocryl A-1070
- Neocryl A-1090 Neocryl A-1090
- Neorez R- 981 ® polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R- 981 and
- Neorez R- 974 by the company Avecia-Neoresins, ® ® ®
- Avalure UR-405 Avalure UR-410 , Avalure UR-425 ,
- non-aqueous film- forming polymer dispersions examples include acrylic dispersions
- compositions according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer that promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer.
- a plasticizer may be chosen from any compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function.
- At least one of the compositions used in the process according to the invention may comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes and materials with an effect, and mixtures thereof.
- These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of each first and second composition or relative to the total weight of the composition when A and B are present in the same composition.
- the pigments that are useful in the present invention may be in the form of powder or of pigmentary paste.
- dyes should be understood as meaning compounds, generally organic, which are soluble in at least one oil or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.
- pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
- nacres or nacreous pigments should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
- the pigment may be an organic pigment .
- organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
- the organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanin, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds .
- the organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17
- These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed especially of particles comprising an inorganic nucleus at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder to fix the organic pigments to the nucleus.
- pigmentary pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names :
- Cosmenyl FB Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490);
- the pigment may also be a lake.
- the term "lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
- the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
- D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370) , D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410) , D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425) , D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430) , D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510) , D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200) , D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140) , D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) , D&C Green (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 0 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090) .
- An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1) .
- the pigment may also be a pigment with special effects.
- pigments with special effects means pigments that generally create a non-uniform coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain lightness) that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They thus contrast with white or coloured pigments that afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
- pigments with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as nacres or flakes.
- Pigments with special effects that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride
- coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- pigments with an interference effect may also be made of pigments with an interference effect that are not fixed onto a substrate, for instance liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) , holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or
- Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochrome,c pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
- Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductive nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, irradiation with a wavelength of between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature. They may be manufactured in particular according to the processes described, for example, in US 6 225 198 or US 5 990 479, in the publications cited therein, and also in the following publications: Dabboussi B.O. et al . "(CdSe)ZnS core- shell quantum dots: synthesis and characterization of a size series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites” Journal of Physical Chemistry B, vol. 101, 1997, pp. 9463-9475 and Peng, Xiaogang et al . "Epitaxial growth of highly luminescent CdSe/CdS core/shell nanocrystals with photostability and electronic accessibility", Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 119, No. 30, pp. 7019-7029.
- Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments and thermochromic pigments.
- the pigment may be a mineral pigment .
- mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
- the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta 2 O 5 , Ti 3 O 5 , Ti 2 O 3 , TiO, ZrO 2 as a mixture with TiO 2 , ZrO 2 , Nb 2 O 5 , CeO 2 , ZnS.
- the pigment may also be a nacreous pigment such as white nacreous pigments, for example mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and especially with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- white nacreous pigments for example mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride
- coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and especially with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above
- mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above examples that may be mentioned include the Cellini pigments sold by Engelhard (Mica-Ti0 2 -lake) , Prestige sold by Eckart
- multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium, may be envisaged.
- the size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 ⁇ m, preferably between 20 nm and 80 ⁇ m and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 ⁇ m.
- the pigments may be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersant.
- the dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation.
- This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can physically or chemically attach to the surface of the pigments.
- These dispersants also contain at least one functional group that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium.
- 12-hydroxystearic acid esters and C 8 to C 2 O fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or poly- hydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel PlOO by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof .
- poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel,
- dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company
- Avecia and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
- the polydihydroxystearic acid and the 12-hydroxystearic acid esters are preferably intended for a hydrocarbon- based or fluorinated medium, whereas the mixtures of oxyethylene/oxypropylene dimethylsiloxane are preferably intended for a silicone medium.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition or relative to the total weight of the composition when A and B are present in the same composition.
- the fillers may be mineral or organic and of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).
- silicone resin microbeads for example Tospearls” from Toshiba
- elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads” from Maprecos) , glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
- compositions according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, acidifying or basifying agents, preserving agents, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, fibres and care agents, or mixtures thereof .
- ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as vitamins, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, acidifying or basifying agents, preserving agents, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, fibres and care agents, or mixtures thereof .
- the gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or mineral, and polymeric or molecular, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents.
- Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a Ci 0 to C 2 2 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the
- fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 ⁇ m.
- a hydrophobic surface treatment it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica.
- hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane.
- Silicas thus treated are known as
- silica thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold, for example, under the
- the hydrophobic fumed silica particularly has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
- the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for
- fatty acid esters of dextrin such as dextrin palmitates, especially the products sold under the name Rheopearl TL ® or Rheopearl KL ® by the company Chiba Flour.
- the lipophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% and better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it, in particular of the weight of each first and second composition.
- Hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agents that may be mentioned include:
- water-soluble gelling polymers As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of:
- proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soybean proteins
- proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins
- cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives; vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
- Ci 6 -OE 120 -Ci 6 polymer from the company Servo Delden (sold under the name Ser Ad FXIlOO, which is a molecule containing urethane functions and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Rheolate 205 containing urea functions, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas, containing a C 20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water.
- Ser Ad FXIlOO which is a molecule containing urethane functions and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300
- OE being an oxyethylene unit
- Rheolate 205 containing urea functions sold by the company Rheox
- Rheolate 208 or 204 these polymers being sold in pure form
- DW 1206B
- solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes especially in water or in aqueous- alcoholic medium.
- examples of such polymers include Ser Ad FXlOlO, Ser Ad FX1035 and Ser Ad 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox.
- Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox.
- - mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.
- the hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% and better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition.
- compositions according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants, which are especially present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% and even better still from 2% to 10% relative to the total weight of each composition.
- These surfactants may be chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.
- the surfactants preferentially used in the first and second compositions according to the invention are chosen from: a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 25 0 C, used alone or as a mixture,- mention may be made especially of:
- ethers which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups of glycerol;
- - oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably Ci 2 -Ci 8 alcohol) , such as oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Ceteareth-30) and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of Ci 2 -Ci 5 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name
- Neodol 25-7 sold under the name Neodol 25-7 by
- fatty acid esters especially of a C 8 -C 24 and preferably Ci 6 -C 22 acid
- polyethylene glycol which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units
- PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P by the company ICI Uniqema,-
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glyceryl ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) , for instance PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat S sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat 0 sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Varionic LI 13 sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat L sold
- - fatty acid esters especially of a C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably Ci 6 -C 22 acid
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups
- polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60 by the company Uniqema,-
- EO/PO polycondensates for instance the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic, for instance Synperonic PE/L44 and Synperonic PE/F127, by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof;
- nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25 0 C optionally combined with one or more nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than 8 at 25 0 C, as mentioned above, such as:
- sucrose stearate sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, for instance Arlatone 2121 sold by the company ICI;
- fatty acid esters (especially of a C 8 -C 2 4 and preferably Ci 6 -C 22 acid) of polyols, especially of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin M by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312 by the company H ⁇ ls, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate or glyceryl ricinoleate,- - the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C by the company Dow Corning, c) anionic surfactants such as:
- Ci 6 -C 30 fatty acid salts especially those derived from amines, for instance triethanolamine stearate; - polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially those derived from amines or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof;
- phosphoric esters and salts thereof such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N ION from the company Croda) and cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from the company DSM Nutritional Products) ;
- - sulfosuccinates such as Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate and Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate,- - alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
- Triethanolamine stearate is most particularly suitable for the invention. This is generally obtained by simple mixing of stearic acid and triethanolamine.
- Surfactants that allow an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion to be obtained are preferably used.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise any cosmetic active agent, such as active agents chosen from antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens.
- active agents chosen from antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens.
- compositions according to the invention may be, independently, in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel, an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water (0/W) emulsion, a wax-in-water or water- in-oil (W/0) emulsion or a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or 0/W/O) , in solid, liquid or pasty form, or in the form of a cream, a paste, a mousse, a vesicular dispersion, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids, a two-phase or multiphase lotion, a powder or a paste, especially a soft paste.
- a person skilled in the art may select the appropriate galenical form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended use of each composition.
- Example 1 preparation of a polydimethylsiloxane polymer containing alpha- triethoxysilane end groups
- the following polymer may be prepared:
- N-cyclohexylaminomethyltriethoxysilane (MW: 275) : Geniosil XL 926 from the company Wacker.
- the polydimethylsiloxane containing aminopropyl end groups (also known as the "amino silicone") is reacted with the 1 , 4-diisocyanatotoluene to form a polymer referred to as the "prepolymer” containing ⁇ , ⁇ -diisocyanate end groups.
- TDI 1, 4-diisocyanatotoluene
- THF tetrahydrofuran
- Fluka purum grade
- a solution of 55 g of Geniosil XL 926 in 50 g of THF is prepared, protected from moisture.
- This solution is introduced into a new dropping funnel, which is installed in place of the previous dropping funnel on the reactor.
- Geniosil XL 926 is poured over 30 minutes into the reactor containing the silicone prepolymer containing isocyanate end groups, with continued stirring and sparging with nitrogen, and while maintaining the temperature of the reaction medium between 25 and 5O 0 C in case of exothermicity (otherwise, the reaction is performed at room temperature) .
- the mixture is then left to react for a further 2 hours at room temperature .
- the end of the reaction may be controlled via infrared monitoring of the absence of NCO absorption bands at 2270 cm "1 .
- the THF solvent is removed by pouring the synthesis solution into a round- bottomed flask and evaporating off the solvent on a rotary evaporator under partial vacuum.
- a polydimethylsiloxane containing ⁇ , ⁇ alpha- triethoxysilane end groups is obtained, in the form of a very viscous oil.
- the mascara below may be prepared, comprising identical compounds X and Y corresponding to the polymer prepared in Example 1 above.
- the black iron oxide is dispersed in the silicone oil in a beaker with gentle magnetic stirring. 2nd composition
- the first and second compositions above are mixed together extemporaneously and this mixture may then be applied to the eyelashes to obtain a film that has good staying power.
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- Silicon Polymers (AREA)
Abstract
The present invention relates to a kit for coating keratin materials, comprising: at least one first composition and at least one second composition that are conditioned separately, the kit comprising at least one compound (X), at least one compound (Y), and optionally at least one catalyst, the said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below -ZSiR1X(OR)3-X, (I) in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0, 1 or 2, and Z is chosen from: -CH2-, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) : the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
Description
Kit comprising alpha-alkoxysilane functionalized compounds X and Y
The present invention relates to a kit for coating keratin materials, in particular for non-therapeutic keratin material makeup or care, comprising at least two compositions and at least two alkoxysilane functionalized compounds X and Y that are capable of reacting together via condensation.
The compositions according to the invention may be compositions for making up or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the nails.
Each composition may be a loose or compacted powder, a foundation, a makeup rouge, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a body makeup product or a skin colouring product .
The care composition may be a product for caring for the eyelashes or the lips, or a bodily and facial skincare product, especially an antisun product.
Lipstick and foundation compositions are commonly used for giving an aesthetic colour to the lips or the skin, especially to the face. These makeup products generally contain fatty phases such as waxes and oils, pigments and/or fillers and optionally additives, for instance cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
When they are applied to the skin, these compositions have the drawback of transferring, i.e. of at least partly coming off, leaving marks, on certain supports with which they may come into contact and especially a
glass, a cup, a cigarette, an item of clothing or the skin. This results in mediocre persistence of the applied film, making it necessary to regularly freshen the application of the foundation or lipstick composition. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable marks, especially on blouse collars, may put certain women off using this type of makeup.
"Transfer-resistant" lip and skin makeup compositions are thus sought, which have the advantage of forming a deposit that does not come off, at least partly, onto the supports with which they come into contact (glass, clothing, cigarette or fabrics) and that has good staying power.
To limit the transfer of cosmetic compositions, it is known practice to use volatile oils. When they are present in large amounts, these volatile oils make the makeup product, especially the lipstick, uncomfortable for the user to wear: the makeup deposit gives a sensation of drying out and of tautness.
In the case of eyelash-coating compositions or mascaras, mascaras that are anhydrous or that have a low content of water and/or water-soluble solvents, which are referred to as "waterproof mascaras", are known, which are formulated in the form of a dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents and which show good resistance to water and/or to sebum.
However, the makeup film obtained after applying these compositions is not sufficiently resistant to water, for example during bathing or showering, to tears or to sweat, or even to sebum. The mascara then has a tendency to crumble away over time: grains come off and unaesthetic marks appear around the eyes.
The aim of the present invention is to provide a novel route for formulating cosmetic compositions, especially makeup compositions, enabling the production of a film deposited on keratin materials, which has good transfer- resistance properties and good properties of staying power over time, in particular with respect to water and rubbing, and which leaves a comfortable deposit on the skin, the lips, the eyelashes or the nails.
The Inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain such properties by using a system comprising compounds X and Y which polymerize in situ so as to better adhere to keratin materials. These compounds also show good biocompatibility .
Before applying them to the keratin materials, compounds X and Y may be present in the same composition or in two different compositions referred to as the first and second compositions.
Accordingly, according to a first aspect, a subject of the present invention is a kit for coating keratin materials, comprising: - at least one first composition and at least one second composition that are conditioned separately,
- the kit comprising at least one compound (X) , at least one compound (Y) , and optionally at least one catalyst,
- the said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other,
- at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two
alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below
in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and Z is chosen from: -CH2-, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
These compounds are capable of reacting together on keratin materials or on a support so as to form, on the keratin materials, an adhesive film with good staying power. In particular, compounds X and Y as described above show improved reactivity, without it being necessary to use large amounts of catalyst to trigger the condensation reaction with each other, or even without using catalyst.
Compound (s) X and compound (s) Y may be applied to the keratin materials using several compositions containing compound (s) X or compound (s) Y, together or as a
mixture, or using a single composition containing compound (s) X and compound (s) Y.
Compound (s) X and compound (s) Y may in particular be present in the first and/or in the second composition.
The catalyst (s), when present, may be included in one or the other of the first and second compositions applied to the keratin materials or in an additional composition, in which case the order of application of the various compositions to the keratin materials is irrelevant .
When the kit comprises a catalyst, this catalyst is preferably not present in the same composition as compounds X and Y .
The catalysts advantageously chosen are those described later.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, at least one additional reactive compound as defined below is applied to the keratin materials.
For example, the additional reactive compound (s) may be present in one or the other or in each first and second composition applied to the keratin materials or in an additional composition, in which case the order of application of the various compositions to the keratin materials is irrelevant.
According to one embodiment, the kit also comprises an
"additional" composition for removing the coating obtained on the keratin materials by reaction of compounds X and Y, the said composition preferably
comprising at least one organic solvent or oil chosen from the organic solvents and oils described later.
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, an additional composition comprising an aqueous phase is applied to the keratin materials.
Each composition of the kit may be conditioned separately in the same packaging article, for example in a two-compartment pen, the base composition being delivered via one end of the pen and the top composition being delivered via the other end of the pen, each end being closed, especially in a leaktight manner, with a lid. Each composition may also be conditioned in a compartment within the same packaging article, the mixing of the two compositions taking place at the end(s) of the packaging article during the delivery of each composition. The packaging article (s) may be watertight and/or airtight.
Alternatively, each composition may be conditioned in a separate packaging article.
Another subject of the invention is a composition for coating keratin materials, comprising:
- at least one compound X and
- at least one compound Y, the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds
X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below
in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: -CH2-, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , and optionally at least one catalyst.
In this embodiment, at least one of the compounds X and Y may be present in an encapsulated form.
According to one variant, the two compounds X and Y are both present in separate encapsulated forms .
More particularly, compounds X and/or Y may be present in the form of microcapsules and especially of nanocapsules of core/shell type, the core of lipophilic nature containing compound X or compound Y.
A subject of the invention is also the use of a kit or a composition as described above, for obtaining a film
deposited on keratin materials, which has improved staying power, gloss and/or comfort properties.
According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, which consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one coat of a mixture of a first composition and of a second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst,
- the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and
- at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below
in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: a -CH2- group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , the said mixture being obtained either extemporaneously before application to the keratin materials, or simultaneously with its application to the keratin materials .
Compounds X and Y may be present in the same composition, for example in the first composition, and the catalyst, when one is present, may be in the second composition. According to another embodiment, compounds X and Y are present in separate compositions, the catalyst being present in an additional composition or in one of the compositions comprising X or Y.
Preferably, when it is present, the catalyst is not in the same composition as compounds X and Y.
According to one embodiment, compounds X and Y are mixed extemporaneously and the mixture is then applied to the keratin materials.
Accordingly, a subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, which consists in: a. extemporaneously mixing at least one first composition and at least one second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst, the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via
a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below
in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and Z is chosen from: a -CH2- group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , and then b. applying at least one coat of the said mixture to the said keratin materials.
According to one variant, at least two different compositions are applied to the keratin materials, each comprising at least one compound X and/or at least one compound Y, and optionally at least one catalyst.
Accordingly, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials: a. of at least one coat of a first composition; b. of at least one coat of a second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst, the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups per polymer molecule, the said groups having the formula
(I) below
in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: a -CH2- group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and
c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
The order of application of the first and second compositions is irrelevant.
Several coats of each of the first and second compositions may also be applied alternately to the keratin materials.
According to another embodiment, at least one additional coat of at least one composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, and preferably at least one film- forming polymer and at least one organic solvent (or oily) or aqueous medium, is applied to the coat(s) of the composition (s) comprising compounds X and/or Y in order, for example, to improve the staying power, gloss and/or comfort thereof.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the processes according to the invention also comprise the application of an additional composition comprising an aqueous phase .
Needless to say, each composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium that may be applied to human keratin materials, and which has a pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
I . Compounds X and Y
At least one of the compounds X and Y is a silicone compound .
The term "silicone compound" means a compound comprising at least two organosiloxane units.
According to one particular embodiment, compound X and compound Y are silicone-based.
Compounds X and compounds Y may be amine or non-amine compounds .
At least one of the compounds X and Y comprises at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups of formula (I) as described above, which are alpha- alkoxysilane functionalized groups.
The term "alkoxysilane functionalized reactive group" means a group comprising at least one alkoxysilane group, i.e. a group comprising at least one silicon atom bonded to at least one group OR, R being an alkyl containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3 and better still from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, each silicon atom possibly being bonded to one, two or three groups OR (monoalkoxysilane, dialkoxysilane or trialkoxysilane groups) .
Each alkoxysilane functionalized reactive group A may comprise 1, 2 or 3 alkoxysilane groups, i.e. may comprise 1, 2 or 3 silicon atoms each bonded to at least one group OR, as defined above.
Compounds X and Y are capable of reacting via condensation, either in the presence of water (hydrolysis) by reaction of two compounds bearing alkoxysilane functionalized groups, or via "direct" condensation by reaction of a compound bearing alkoxysilane group (s) and of a compound bearing silanol group (s) (Si-OH), preferably at least two silanol groups .
Compounds X and Y, which may be identical or different, may be chosen from compounds whose main chain comprises at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups, as described above, and/or at least two silanol groups.
The alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups and/or the silanol groups may be located at the ends of the main chain of the compound (end group) and/or are pendent on the main chain (side group) .
Preferably, at least one of the compounds X and/or Y comprises at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups located at the ends of the main chain of the compound .
According to one embodiment, compound X and compound Y each comprise at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups .
Preferably, each compound X and Y comprises an alkoxysilane functionalized reactive group at each of its ends.
The alkoxysilane functionalized groups correspond to formula (I) :
in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, preferably a methyl or ethyl group,
R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: -CH2-, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) below:
R9 being as described above, the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.
Preferably, the groups R9 independently represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Alkyl groups that may especially be mentioned include methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and hexyl , and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl or ethyl . A fluoroalkyl group that may be mentioned is 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl .
In formula (I), Z is preferably a -CH2- group.
Advantageously, R is a methyl or ethyl group.
More preferably, x is equal to 0.
According to one embodiment, at least one of the compounds X and Y is a polymer whose main chain is predominantly formed from organosiloxane units.
Preferably, X and Y are polyorganosiloxanes .
According to this embodiment, compounds X and/or Y preferably predominantly comprise units of formula
in which R9 independently represents a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, and s is equal to 0 , 1, 2
or 3. Preferably, R9 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms . Alkyl groups that may especially be mentioned include methyl, propyl, butyl, and hexyl , and mixtures thereof, preferably methyl or ethyl . A fluoroalkyl group that may be mentioned is 3 , 3 , 3-trifluoropropyl .
According to one particular embodiment, compounds X and
Y, which may be identical or different, are polyorgano- siloxanes comprising units of formula:
(R9 2SiO2)f (IV) in which R9 is as described above, preferably R9 is a methyl radical, and f is such that the polymer advantageously has a viscosity at 250C ranging from 0.5 to 3000 Pa . s and preferably ranging from 5 to 150 Pa . s . For example, f may range from 2 to 5000, particularly from 3 to 3000 and more particularly from 5 to 1000.
(RO)3.xSi-z-(SiO)f-Si-z-Si(OR)3.x
R R9 Rκ9 (V) in which R, R1, R9, Z, x and f are as described above.
Compounds X and/or Y may also comprise a mixture of polymer of formula (V) above with polymers of formula (VI) below:
# R? R^ R1 t i l !
CH2=CH-SiCKSiO)ISi-Z-Si(OIt)S^
I ! 1
(Vi)
in which R, R1, R9, Z, x and f are as described above.
When the polyorganosiloxane compound X and/or Y containing alkoxysilane group (s) comprises such a mixture, the various polyorganosiloxanes are present in contents such that the organosilyl end chains represent less than 40% and preferably less than 25% by number of the end chains .
As indicated above, compounds X and Y may be identical or different.
According to one variant, one of the two reactive compounds X or Y is of silicone nature and the other is of organic nature. For example, compound X is chosen from organic oligomers or polymers or organic/silicone hybrid oligomers or polymers, the said polymers or oligomers comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups, which are preferably alpha- alkoxysilane functionalized groups of formula (I) , and Y is chosen from silicone compounds such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing alkoxysilane functionalized groups of formula (I) described above. In particular, the organic oligomers or polymers are chosen from vinyl, (meth) acrylic, polyester, polyamide, polyurethane and/or polyurea, polyether, polyolefin or perfluoropolyether oligomers or polymers, and hyperbranched organic dendrimers and polymers, and mixtures thereof .
The organic polymers of vinyl or (meth) acrylic nature bearing alkoxysilane functionalized groups may in particular be obtained via copolymerization of at least one organic vinyl or (meth) acrylic monomer with a vinyl or (meth) acrylic monomer bearing at least one alkoxysilane group, preferably an alpha-alkoxysilane
group, in particular: a
(meth) acryloyloxymethyltriethoxysilane, a
[ (meth) acryloylmethyl] methyldiethoxysilane, a
(meth) acryloylmethyltrimethoxysilane, a (meth) acryloxy- propyltrimethoxysilane, a vinyltrimethoxysilane, a vinyltriethoxysilane, an allyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
The organic polymers resulting from a polycondensation or a polyaddition, such as polyesters, polyamides, polyurethanes and/or polyureas, and polyethers, and bearing alkoxysilane functionalized side and/or end groups, may result, for example, from the reaction of an oligomeric prepolymer as described above with one of the following silane coreagents bearing at least one alkoxysilane functionalized group, preferably an alpha- alkoxysilane group, N-cyclohexylaminomethyl- triethoxysilane, aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, aminopropyltriethoxysilane, aminoethylaminopropyltrimethoxysilane, (isocyanatomethyl) methyldimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane, glycidoxypropyltri- ethoxysilane, epoxycyclohexylethyltrimethoxysilane, mercaptopropyltrimethoxysilane .
Polyorganosiloxane compounds X and/or Y that may be mentioned include resins of MQ or MT type themselves bearing alkoxysilane and/or silanol ends, for instance the poly (isobutylsilsesquioxane) resins functionalized with silanol groups sold under the reference SST-S7C41 (3 Si-OH groups) by the company Gelest .
Polar groups
According to one particular embodiment, at least one of the compounds X and Y bears at least one polar group
capable of forming at least one hydrogen bond with keratin materials.
The term "polar group" means a group comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms in its chemical structure and at least one heteroatom (such as 0, N, S and P) , such that the said group is capable of establishing at least one hydrogen bond with keratin materials.
Compounds bearing at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds are particularly advantageous, since they afford the compositions containing them better adhesion to keratin materials, by virtue of the ability of these groups to establish a hydrogen bond with keratin materials.
The polar group (s) borne by at least one of the compounds X and Y is (are) capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, and comprise (s) either a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom, or an electronegative atom, for instance 0, N or S . When the group comprises a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom, the hydrogen atom may interact with another electronegative atom borne, for example, by another molecule, such as keratin, to form a hydrogen bond. When the group comprises an electronegative atom, the electronegative atom may interact with a hydrogen atom bonded to an electronegative atom borne, for example, by another molecule, such as keratin, to form a hydrogen bond.
Advantageously, these polar groups may be chosen from the following groups:
- carboxylic acids -COOH,
- alcohols, such as: -CH2OH or -CH(R)OH, R being an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- amino of formula -NRiR2, in which Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or one of Ri or R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, - pyridino,
- amido of formula -NH-COR' or -CO-NH-R' in which R' represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, pyrrolidino preferably chosen from the groups of formula:
Ri being an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- carbamoyl of formula -0-CO-NH-R' or -NH-CO-OR' , R' being as defined above,
- thiocarbamoyl such as -0-CS-NH-R' or -NH-CS-OR' , R' being as defined above,
- ureyl such as -NR' -CO-N (R' ) 2, the groups R', which may be identical or different, being as defined above, - sulfonamido such as -NR' -S (=0) 2-R' , R' corresponding to the above definition, and combinations thereof.
Preferably, these polar groups are present in a content of less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, for example in a content ranging from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of each compound X or Y.
The polar group (s) may be located in the main chain of compound X and/or Y or may be pendent on the main chain
or located at the ends of the main chain of compound X and/or Y.
In general, irrespective of the type of reaction via which compounds X and Y react together, the mole percentage of X relative to all of the compounds X and Y, i.e. the ratio X/ (X+Y) x 100, may range from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90% and better still from 20% to 80%.
Similarly, the mole percentage of Y relative to all of the compounds X and Y, i.e. the ratio Y/ (X+Y) x 100, may range from 5% to 95%, preferably from 10% to 90% and better still from 20% to 80%.
Compound X may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 150 to 1 000 000, preferably from 200 to 800 000 and more preferably from 200 to 250 000.
Compound Y may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 200 to 1 000 000, preferably from 300 to 800 000 and more preferably from 500 to 250 000.
Compound X may represent from 0.15% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it, in particular relative to the total weight of each first or second composition.
Compound Y may represent from 0.15% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it, in particular relative to the total weight of each first or second composition.
The ratio between compounds X and Y may be varied by modifying the rate of reaction and thus the rate of formation of the film, or alternatively so as to adapt the properties of the formed film (for example its adhesive properties) according to the desired application.
Reaction between X and Y
The condensation reaction between compounds X and Y advantageously takes place in the presence of water. This water may in particular be ambient moisture, the residual water of the skin, the lips, the eyelashes and/or the nails, or water provided by an external source, for example by premoistening the keratin materials (for example with a composition comprising an aqueous phase, for example a water mister, or natural or artificial tears) .
Compounds X and Y may react together at a temperature ranging between room temperature and 18O0C. Advantageously, compounds X and Y are capable of reacting together at room temperature (20+50C) and atmospheric pressure. The reaction may take place at room temperature (250C) .
According to one embodiment, the condensation reaction between compounds X and Y is accelerated by providing heat, for example by raising the temperature of the system to between 3O0C and 18O0C and especially between 30 and 6O0C.
It may be performed, for example, using means not specifically intended for heating, such as a hot body (a hot beverage or cup). The composition (s) may also be heated using a means specifically dedicated to heating,
for example a hot-air propulsion means such as a hairdryer or a heating device, for instance a heating applicator.
Additional reactive compound
One of the compositions that are useful in the present invention may also comprise an additional reactive compound comprising at least two alkoxysilane or silanol groups.
Examples that may be mentioned include organic or mineral particles comprising at their surface alkoxysilane and/or silanol groups, for example fillers surface-treated with such groups.
Catalyst
The condensation reaction may be performed in the presence of a metal-based catalyst, which may be present in the first and/or the second composition, or alternatively in an additional composition.
The catalyst is especially chosen from organometallic compounds of metals such as titanium, tin and bismuth.
Mention may be made especially of: tin-based catalysts, and especially tin bis (2- ethylhexanoate) , tin bis (neodecanoate) , tin di-n- butylbis (2-ethylhexylmaleate) , tin di-n- butylbis (2 , 4-pentanedionate) , di-n- butylbutoxychlorotin, di-n-butyldiacetoxytin, di-n- butyldilauryltin, tin dimethyldineodecanoate, tin dimethylhydroxy (oleate) , dioctyllauryltin, dioctyldilauryltin, tin II oleate, and mixtures thereof. Such catalysts are sold by the company
Gelest and described in its catalogue (Gelest, Reactive silicones: Forging new polymers links, Copyright 2004, p. 50), titanium-based catalysts (titanates) and especially:
- titanium di-n-butoxide, titanium diisopropoxide (bis-2 , 4-pentanedioate) , titanium diisopropoxide bis (ethyl acetoacetate) , titanium 2-ethylhexoxide, titanium trimethylsiloxide - based on tetraalkoxytitanium of formula
in which R2 is chosen from tertiary alkyl radicals such as tert-butyl, tert-amyl and 2 , 4-dimethyl-3- pentyl; R3 represents an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or hexyl group and y is a number ranging from 3 to 4 and better still from 3.4 to 4. Such catalysts are sold by the company Gelest and described in its catalogue (Gelest, Reactive silicones: Forging new polymers links, Copyright 2004, p. 51)
As catalysts that may be used in the present invention, mention may also be made of basic compounds, for instance primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines and aminosilanes, for instance aminopropyltrimethoxysilane or organic or mineral acids, in particular phosphoric acid and its derivatives.
The catalyst may be present in the composition comprising it in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.0005% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.0005% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
Diluent
The first and/or second composition may also comprise a volatile silicone oil (or diluent) and/or a volatile or non-volatile organic oil, intended to reduce the viscosity of the composition. This oil may be chosen from linear short-chain silicones such as hexamethyldisiloxane or octamethyltrisiloxane, cyclic silicones such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Such oils are described later in detail.
This silicone oil and/or organic oil may represent from 5% to 95% and preferably from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the weight of each composition.
II . Liquid fatty phase
At least one of the first and second compositions advantageously comprises a liquid fatty phase.
For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "liquid fatty phase" means a fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature (250C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , composed of one or more mutually compatible non-aqueous fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, also known as organic solvents or oils .
The oil may be chosen from volatile oils and/or nonvolatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
The oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, with a nonzero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2 , 2 , 4 , 4 , 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched C8-C16 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other
volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by the company Shell, may also be used. The volatile solvent is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 x 10~6 m2/s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclo- pentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hepta- methylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof .
Mention may also be made of the linear volatile alkyltrisiloxane oils of general formula (A) :
in which R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms.
Among the oils of general formula (A) that may be
mentioned are:
3 -butyl -1 ,1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl-l, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-l, 1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (A) for which R is, respectively, a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group .
Volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoro- methoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane may also be used.
The oil of formula (A) for which R is an ethyl group is especially sold under the name Baysilone TP 3886 and the oil for which R is a butyl group is especially sold under the name Baysilone TP 3887 by the company Bayer Silicones .
According to one embodiment, the compositions used in the process according to the invention each have a volatile oil content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% and better still less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition.
According to one embodiment, at least one of the first and second compositions used in the process according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C4 to
C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms ;
- apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and naphthalene oil, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, squalane, decene/butene copolymers and polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L- 14, and polydecenes such as Puresyn 10, and mixtures thereof ; - synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R2 > 10, for instance Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ci2 to Ci5 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene
glycol dioctanoate,- hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate or diisostearyl tnalate,- and pentaerythritol esters,-
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol , isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol , 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol ;
- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
- carbonates;
- acetates;
- citrates;
- and mixtures thereof .
The non-volatile silicone oils may be:
- non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) ,
- polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms,
- phenylsilicones, for instance phenyl trimethi- cones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy- diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl- methyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl- siloxysilicates ;
- optionally fluorinated polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, for instance polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl , thiol and/or amine groups ;
- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes,
- and mixtures thereof .
According to one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase comprises an ester oil. This ester oil may be chosen from the esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols .
Advantageously, the said ester corresponds to formula (VII) below:
where Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted,
R2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of
1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and optionally substituted.
The term "optionally substituted" means that Ri and/or R2 can bear one or more substituents chosen, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms chosen from 0, N and S, such as amino, amine, alkoxy and hydroxyl .
Preferably, the total number of carbon atoms of Ri + R2 is > 9.
Ri may represent the residue of a linear or, preferably, branched fatty acid, preferably a higher fatty acid, containing from 1 to 40 and even better from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and R2 may represent a linear or, preferably, branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40, preferably from 3 to 30 and even better from 3 to 20 carbon atoms. Once again, preferably the number of carbon atoms of Ri + R2 > 9.
Examples of groups Ri are those derived from fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, pelargonic acid, capric acid, undecanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleostearic acid, arachidonic acid and erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of esters include purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, and heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols.
Advantageously, the esters are chosen from the compounds of formula (VII) above, in which Ri represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably of 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, and R2 represents an unsubstituted linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and even better of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds .
Preferably, Ri is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms and preferably of 8 to 10 carbon atoms, and R2 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms and preferably of 9 to 11 carbon atoms. Preferably, in formula (VII), Ri-CO- and R2 have the same number of carbon atoms and are derived from the same radical, preferably an unsubstituted branched alkyl, for example isononyl, i.e. the ester oil molecule is advantageously symmetrical.
The non-volatile oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, better still from 5% to 50% by weight and even better still from 14% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition or relative to the total weight of the composition when X and Y are present in the same composition.
Aqueous phase
At least one of the compositions may comprise an aqueous phase .
The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and/or of water- miscible solvent (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 250C) , for instance lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3- butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water- miscible solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 95% by weight, preferably from 10% to 85% by weight and better still from 2% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
According to one embodiment, the first and second compositions used in the process according to the invention are anhydrous.
The term "anhydrous" means a composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by
weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still being free of water.
Wax
At least one of the compositions may also comprise at least one wax, which may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is in general a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (250C) , with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 3O0C that may be up to 12O0C.
By bringing the wax to the liquid state (melting) , it is possible to make it miscible with the oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than about
450C and in particular greater than 550C.
The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) , for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company
Mettler.
The measuring protocol is as follows:
A 15 mg sample of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from O0C to 12O0C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then
cooled from 12O0C to O0C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from O0C to 12O0C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of product is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid and rigid at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
The wax may also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa. The hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 2O0C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter travelling at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and penetrating the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
The measuring protocol is as follows:
The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax +2O0C. The molten wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (250C) for 24 hours and is then kept at 2O0C for at least 1 hour before performing the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum compression force measured divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.
Hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax or Chinese insect wax,- rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof, may especially be used.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under
® the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba- 50 , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis (1,1,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene, bis (1,1,1 - trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.
The waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of plant oils such as castor oil or olive oil may also be used, for instance the waxes obtained under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2 792 190.
Use may also be made of silicone waxes, which may be advantageously substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. They are especially substituted linear polysiloxanes constituted essentially
(apart from the end groups) of units of formulae (II) and (III), in the respective proportions m and n:
- each R' independently represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or a group -X-R", each X independently representing: -0-,
-(CH2)b-CO-O-, a and b independently represent numbers possibly ranging from 0 to 6 , and each R" independently represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms,
- m is a number possibly ranging from 0 to 400 and in particular from 0 to 100, - n is a number possibly ranging from 1 to 200 and in particular from 1 to 100, the sum (m+n) being less than 400 and in particular less than or equal to 100.
These silicone waxes are known or may be prepared according to the known methods. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made especially of those sold under the names Abil Wax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt) , KF910 and KF7002 (Shin-Etsu) or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (General Electric) .
The silicone waxes that may be used may also be chosen from the compounds of formula (VIII) below:
Ri-Si (CH3) 2-0- [Si (R)2-O-] z-Si(CH3) 2-R2 (VIII) in which: R is defined as above,
Ri represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or a group of formula:
R2 represents an alkyl group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms or a group of formula:
a and b representing a number from 0 to 6 , R" being an alkyl containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and z is a number possibly ranging from 1 to 100.
Among the silicone waxes of formula (VIII) , mention will be made especially of alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones, such as the following commercial products: Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (Goldschmidt) or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (Wacker) , and also (C20-C60) alkyl dimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyl dimethicones, for instance the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.
It is also possible to use hydrocarbon-based waxes modified with silicone or fluoro groups, for instance: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.
The waxes may also be chosen from fluoro waxes.
According to one particular embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one "tacky" wax, i.e. a wax with a tack of greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.
The tacky wax used may especially have a tack ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N.s, especially ranging from 1 N.s to 20 N.s, in particular greater than or equal to 2 N.s, especially ranging from 2 N.s to 10 N.s and in particular ranging from 2 N.s to 5 N.s.
The tack of the wax is determined by measuring the change in force (compression force or stretching force) as a function of time, at 2O0C, using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i" by the company Rheo, equipped with a conical acrylic polymer spindle forming an angle of 45° .
The measuring protocol is as follows: The wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 1O0C. The molten wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (250C) for 24 hours such that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, and the wax is then stored for at least 1 hour at 2O0C before measuring the tack.
The texturometer spindle is displaced at a speed of
0.5 mm/s then penetrates the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the spindle has penetrated the wax to a depth of 2 mm, the spindle is held still for 1 second
(corresponding to the relaxation time) and is then withdrawn at a speed of 0.5 mm/s.
During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases greatly until it becomes zero, and then, during the withdrawal of the spindle, the force
(stretching force) becomes negative and then rises again to the value 0. The tack corresponds to the integral of the curve of the force as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to negative values of the force (stretching force) . The tack value is expressed in N.s.
The tacky wax that may be used generally has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, especially ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa or even ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.
The hardness is measured according to the protocol described previously.
A tacky wax that may be used is a C2O-C40 alkyl
(hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) , alone or as a mixture, in particular a C2O-C40 alkyl 12- (12 ' -hydroxystearyloxy) - stearate.
Such a wax is especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen .
The waxes mentioned above generally have a starting melting point of less than 450C.
The wax(es) may be in the form of an aqueous microdispersion of wax. The expression "aqueous microdispersion of wax" means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles in which the size, expressed as the "effective" mean volume diameter D[4,3], of the said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.
Wax microdispersions are stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, and are described especially in "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", L. M. Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977) pages 21-32.
In particular, these wax microdispersions may be obtained by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and optionally of a portion of water, followed by gradual addition of hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of an emulsion of the water- in-oil type is observed, followed by a phase inversion, with final production of a microemulsion of the oil-in- water type. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid wax colloidal particles is obtained.
The wax microdispersions may also be obtained by stirring the mixture of wax, surfactant and water using stirring means such as ultrasound, high-pressure homogenizers or turbomixers .
The particles of the wax microdispersion preferably have mean sizes of less than 1 μm (especially ranging from 0.02 μm to 0.99 μm) and preferably less than 0.5 μm (especially ranging from 0.06 μm to 0.5 μm) .
These particles consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes. However, they may comprise a small proportion of oily and/or pasty fatty additives, a
surfactant and/or a common liposoluble additive/active agent .
The waxes may represent from 0.1% to 70% by weight, better still from 1% to 40% and even better still from 2% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
Film- forming polymer
At least one of the compositions may comprise a film- forming polymer. According to the present invention, the term "film- forming polymer" means a polymer capable, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, of forming a continuous film that adheres to a support and especially to keratin materials.
The film- forming polymer may be present in a solids content (or active material content) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
Among the film- forming polymers that may be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, and polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof .
The expression "free-radical film-forming polymer" means a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated and especially ethylenically unsaturated monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates) .
The film- forming polymers of free-radical type may be, in particular, vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
The vinyl film- forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acidic group and/or esters of these acidic monomers and/or amides of these acidic monomers .
Monomers bearing an acidic group which may be used are α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid or itaconic acid. (Meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are preferably used, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.
The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from (meth) acrylic acid esters (also known as (meth) acrylates) , especially (meth) acrylates of an alkyl, in particular of a Ci-C30 and preferably Ci-C2O alkyl, (meth) acrylates of an aryl , in particular of a C6-Ci0 aryl, and (meth) acrylates of a hydroxyalkyl , in particular of a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.
Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned are methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate and cyclohexyl methacrylate.
Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned are hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
Among the aryl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned are benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
The (meth) acrylic acid esters that are particularly preferred are the alkyl (meth) acrylates .
According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
Examples of amides of the acid monomers that may be mentioned are (meth) acrylamides, and especially N- alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of a C2-Ci2 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides that may be mentioned are N-ethylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-t- octylacrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide .
The vinyl film- forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers . In particular, these monomers may be polymerized with acid monomers and/or esters thereof and/or amides thereof, such as those mentioned above.
Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned are vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butylbenzoate .
Styrene monomers that may be mentioned are styrene and α-methylstyrene .
Among the film- forming polycondensates that may be mentioned are polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester- amides, polyamides, epoxyester resins and polyureas .
The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane- acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester- polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas and polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.
The polyesters may be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
The dicarboxylic acid may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids that may be mentioned are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2 , 2-dimethylglutaric acid, azeleic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-cyclo- hexanedicarboxylic acid, 1, 4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5- norbornanedicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2 , 5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or 2, 6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or as a combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, the ones preferentially chosen are phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid.
The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. The diol used is preferably chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1 , 3 -propanediol , cyclohexanedimethanol and 4-butanediol . Other polyols that may be used are glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and trimethylolpropane .
The polyesteramides may be obtained in a manner analogous to that of the polyesters, by polycondensation
of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. Diamines that may be used are ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine and meta- or para-phenylenediamine . An amino alcohol that may be used is monoethanolamine .
The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one group -SO3M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion such as, for example, an Na+, Li+, K+, Mg2+, Ca2+, Cu2+, Fe2+ or Fe3+ ion. A difunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M may be used in particular.
The aromatic nucleus of the difunctional aromatic monomer also bearing a group -SO3M as described above may be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, biphenyl, oxybiphenyl, sulfonylbiphenyl and methylenebiphenyl nuclei. As examples of difunctional aromatic monomers also bearing a group -SO3M, mention may be made of: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene- 2 , 7-dicarboxylic acid.
The copolymers preferably used are those based on isophthalate/sulfoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol , isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid.
The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums, copal resins and cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof .
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the first and/or
second composition; the polymer is thus solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition.
According to another variant, the film- forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents or oils such as those described above (the film-forming polymer is thus said to be a liposoluble polymer) . The liquid fatty phase preferably comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils possibly being chosen from those mentioned above.
Examples of liposoluble polymers that may be mentioned are copolymers of vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (other than the vinyl ester already present) , an α-olefin (containing from 8 to 28 carbon atoms) , an alkyl vinyl ether (in which the alkyl group comprises from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or an allylic or methallylic ester (containing a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) .
These copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of crosslinking agents, which may be either of the vinyl type or of the allylic or methallylic type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octane- dioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecane- dioate.
Examples of these copolymers that may be mentioned are the following copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate,
vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/ octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/ 1-octadecene, vinyl acetate/1 -dodecene, vinyl stearate/ ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2 , 2-dimethyloctan- oate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2 , 2-dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate/ vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethylpropionate/vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/1-octadecene, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene, and allyl propionate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinylbenzene.
Examples of liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned are liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters containing from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, and alkyl radicals containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from polyvinyl stearate, polyvinyl stearate crosslinked with the aid of divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, polystearyl (meth) acrylate, polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl (meth) acrylate, it being possible for these poly (meth) acrylates to be crosslinked with the aid of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and are described in particular in patent application FR-A-2 232 303; they may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500 000 and preferably from 4000 to 200 000.
Mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters containing from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
Examples of liposoluble homopolymers that may especially be mentioned include: polyvinyl laurate and polylauryl (meth) acrylates, these poly (meth) acrylates possibly being crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the first and/or second composition of the process according to the invention comprises at least one polyvinyl laurate film- forming polymer.
As liposoluble film- forming polymers which may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C2O alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C8 alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still C3 to C20 alkene . As examples of VP copolymers which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) , VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic
acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene or VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate .
Mention may also be made of silicone resins, which are generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name "MDTQ" , the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.
Examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesqui- oxane resins that may be mentioned include those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK; by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KR-220L.
Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethyl siloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR 1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF- 7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, and DC 749 and DC 593 by the company Dow Corning .
Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethyl- siloxanes, for instance the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference Bio-PSA and described in document US 5 162 410, or the silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those
described above, and of a diorganosiloxane, as described in document WO 2004/073 626.
It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type, such as those described in documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441, US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680.
These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the film- forming polymer is a film- forming linear block ethylenic polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block with different glass transition temperatures (Tg) , the said first and second blocks being linked together via an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block.
Advantageously, the first and second blocks of the block polymer are mutually incompatible.
Such polymers are described, for example, in document EP 1 411 069 or WO 04/028 488.
The film- forming polymer may also be present in the first and/or second composition in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous
solvent phase, which is generally known as a latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.
Aqueous dispersions of film- forming polymers that may be used include the acrylic dispersions sold under the
® ® ® names Neocryl XK-90 , Neocryl A-1070 , Neocryl A-1090 ,
® ® ®
Neocryl BT-62 , Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl A-523 by the company Avecia-Neoresins, Dow Latex 432 by the company
® ® Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD or Daitosol 5000 SJ by
® the company Daito Kasey Kogyo,- Syntran 5760 by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company Rohm &
Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene/acrylic
® polymers sold under the brand name Joncryl by the company Johnson Polymer, or the aqueous dispersions of
® polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R- 981 and
®
Neorez R- 974 by the company Avecia-Neoresins, ® ® ®
Avalure UR-405 , Avalure UR-410 , Avalure UR-425 ,
® ® ® ®
Avalure UR-450 , Sancure 875 , Sancure 861 , Sancure 878 and Sancure 2060 by the company Goodrich, Impranil 85
® by the company Bayer and Aquamere H- 1511 by the company
Hydromer; the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name
® Eastman AQ by the company Eastman Chemical Products,
® and vinyl dispersions, for instance Mexomer PAM from the company Chimex, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of non-aqueous film- forming polymer dispersions that may also be mentioned include acrylic dispersions
® in isododecane, for instance Mexomer PAP from the company Chimex, and dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably an acrylic polymer, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer advantageously being dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described especially in document WO 04/055 081.
The compositions according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer that promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from any compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function.
Dyestuffs
At least one of the compositions used in the process according to the invention may comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes and materials with an effect, and mixtures thereof.
These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of each first and second composition or relative to the total weight of the composition when A and B are present in the same composition.
The pigments that are useful in the present invention may be in the form of powder or of pigmentary paste.
The term "dyes" should be understood as meaning compounds, generally organic, which are soluble in at least one oil or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.
The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
The term "nacres" or nacreous pigments should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced
by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.
The pigment may be an organic pigment . The term "organic pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanin, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds .
The organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed especially of particles comprising an inorganic nucleus at least
partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder to fix the organic pigments to the nucleus.
Examples that may also be mentioned include pigmentary pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names :
- Jaune Cosmenyl IOG: Pigment Yellow 3 (CI 11710) ;
- Jaune Cosmenyl G: Pigment Yellow 1 (CI 11680) ;
- Orange Cosmenyl GR: Pigment Orange 43 (CI 71105) ; - Rouge Cosmenyl R": Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085);
- Carmine Cosmenyl FB: Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490);
- Violet Cosmenyl RL: Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319) ;
- Bleu Cosmenyl A2R: Pigment Blue 15.1 (CI 74160);
- Vert Cosmenyl GG: Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260) ; - Noir Cosmenyl R: Pigment Black 7 (CI 77266) .
The pigment may also be a lake. The term "lake" means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370) , D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410) , D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425) , D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430) , D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510) , D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200) , D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140) , D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) , D&C Green (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 0 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090) .
An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1) .
The pigment may also be a pigment with special effects. The term "pigments with special effects" means pigments that generally create a non-uniform coloured appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain lightness) that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They thus contrast with white or coloured pigments that afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.
Two types of pigment with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic or thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as nacres or flakes.
Pigments with special effects that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica especially with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the abovementioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect that are not fixed onto a substrate, for instance liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) , holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or
Spectra f/x from Spectratek) . Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent
pigments, photochrome,c pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductive nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, irradiation with a wavelength of between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are known from the literature. They may be manufactured in particular according to the processes described, for example, in US 6 225 198 or US 5 990 479, in the publications cited therein, and also in the following publications: Dabboussi B.O. et al . "(CdSe)ZnS core- shell quantum dots: synthesis and characterization of a size series of highly luminescent nanocrystallites" Journal of Physical Chemistry B, vol. 101, 1997, pp. 9463-9475 and Peng, Xiaogang et al . "Epitaxial growth of highly luminescent CdSe/CdS core/shell nanocrystals with photostability and electronic accessibility", Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 119, No. 30, pp. 7019-7029.
Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments and thermochromic pigments.
The pigment may be a mineral pigment . The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also iron oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium dioxide. The following
mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.
The pigment may also be a nacreous pigment such as white nacreous pigments, for example mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, coloured nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and especially with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples that may be mentioned include the Cellini pigments sold by Engelhard (Mica-Ti02-lake) , Prestige sold by Eckart
(MiCa-TiO2) or Colorona sold by Merck (MiCa-TiO2-Fe2O3) .
In addition to nacres on a mica support, multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium, may be envisaged.
The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm and more preferentially between 30 nm and 50 μm.
The pigments may be dispersed in the product by means of a dispersant.
The dispersant serves to protect the dispersed particles against agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities with strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can physically or chemically attach to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also contain at least one functional group
that is compatible with or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, 12-hydroxystearic acid esters and C8 to C2O fatty acid esters of polyols such as glycerol or diglycerol are used, such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate with a molecular weight of about 750 g/mol, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or poly- hydroxystearic acid such as the product sold under the reference Arlacel PlOO by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof .
As other dispersants that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, for instance Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company
Avecia, and polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene mixtures such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185 and DC2-5225 C.
The polydihydroxystearic acid and the 12-hydroxystearic acid esters are preferably intended for a hydrocarbon- based or fluorinated medium, whereas the mixtures of oxyethylene/oxypropylene dimethylsiloxane are preferably intended for a silicone medium.
The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition or relative to the total weight of the composition when A and B are present in the same composition. The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for
example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent, kaolin, polyamide powder, for instance Nylon" (Orgasol" from Atochem) , poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, (Teflon"), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded hollow polymer microspheres such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel (Nobel Industrie) , acrylic acid copolymers
® (Polytrap from Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls" from Toshiba), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads" from Maprecos) , glass or ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, acidifying or basifying agents, preserving agents, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, fibres and care agents, or mixtures thereof .
The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or mineral, and polymeric or molecular, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents.
Mineral lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include optionally modified clays, for instance hectorites modified with a Ci0 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the
® product sold under the name "Bentone 38V " by the company Elementis.
Mention may also be made of fumed silica optionally subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment, the particle size of which is less than 1 μm. Specifically, it is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is especially possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are known as
"silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition,
1995) . They are sold, for example, under the references
Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-
® 530 by the company Cabot; - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained especially by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold, for example, under the
® ® references Aerosil R972 and Aerosil R974 by the company
® ®
Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610 and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 by the company Cabot .
The hydrophobic fumed silica particularly has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, for
® ® instance those sold under the names KSG6 , KSG16 and
KSG18 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow Corning, Gransil SR-CYC , SR DMF 10 , SR-DC556 , SR 5CYC gel , SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel from Grant Industries and SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric; ethylcellulose, for instance the product sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from condensation between (α) at least one acid chosen from dicarboxylic acids containing at least 32 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid dimers, and (β) an alkylenediamine and in particular ethylenediamine, in which the polyamide polymer comprises at least one carboxylic acid end group esterified or amidated with at least one saturated and linear monoalcohol or one saturated and linear monoamine containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and in particular ethylenediamine/stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such as the product sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG by the company Arizona Chemical; galactomannans comprising from one to six and in particular from two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for instance guar gum alkylated with Ci to C6, and in particular Ci to C3, alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof; block copolymers of "diblock" or "triblock" type, of the polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, such as the products
® sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-propylene) type, such as the products sold under the name Kraton by the company
Shell Chemical Co., or of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-butylene) type .
Among the gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of fatty acid esters of dextrin, such as dextrin palmitates, especially the products sold under the name Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour.
The lipophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% and better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it, in particular of the weight of each first and second composition.
Hydrophilic or water-soluble gelling agents that may be mentioned include:
- homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or the salts and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid, Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, and the polyacrylic acids of Synthalen K type,-
- copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten by the company Hercules, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F by the company Henkel;
- polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers of the Pemulen type,-
- AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company Clariant;
- AMPS/acrylamide copolymers of the Sepigel or Simulgel type, sold by the company SEPPIC, and
- AMPS/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) ; and mixtures thereof .
As other examples of water-soluble gelling polymers, mention may be made of:
- proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin, such as wheat or soybean proteins,- proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;
- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;
- cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives; vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
- associative polyurethanes such as the Ci6-OE120-Ci6 polymer from the company Servo Delden (sold under the name Ser Ad FXIlOO, which is a molecule containing urethane functions and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit, Rheolate 205 containing urea functions, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208 or 204 (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas, containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids
content of 20% in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, especially in water or in aqueous- alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Ser Ad FXlOlO, Ser Ad FX1035 and Ser Ad 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM 184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Rohm & Haas, or Borchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers,-
- optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as :
- gum arabics, guar gum, xanthan derivatives and karaya gum;
- alginates and carrageenans,-
- glycoaminoglycans, and hyaluronic acid and its derivatives ;
- shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins,-
- deoxyribonucleic acid;
- mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.
The hydrophilic gelling agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% and better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of each first and second composition.
The compositions according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants, which are especially present in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, better still from 1% to 15% and even better still from 2% to 10% relative to the total weight of each composition.
These surfactants may be chosen from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer" , Volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifying) of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the anionic and nonionic surfactants.
The surfactants preferentially used in the first and second compositions according to the invention are chosen from: a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at 250C, used alone or as a mixture,- mention may be made especially of:
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (especially of C8-C24 and preferably Ci2-Ci8 alcohol) , such as oxyethylenated cetearyl alcohol ether containing 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name Ceteareth-30) and the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of Ci2-Ci5 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name
® C12-15 Pareth-7 sold under the name Neodol 25-7 by
Shell Chemicals) ;
- fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably Ci6-C22 acid) of polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) , such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the name Myrj 52P by the company ICI Uniqema,-
- fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably Ci6-C22 acid) of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glyceryl ethers (which may comprise from
1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) , for instance PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM by the company SEPPIC; glyceryl stearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat S sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl oleate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat 0 sold by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl cocoate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Varionic LI 13 sold by the company Sherex, glyceryl isostearate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat L sold by the company Goldschmidt, and glyceryl laurate polyethoxylated with 30 ethylene oxide groups, for instance the product Tagat I from the company Goldschmidt ;
- fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably Ci6-C22 acid) of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) , for instance polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60 by the company Uniqema,-
- dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Q2-5220 by the company Dow Corning; - dimethicone copolyol benzoate (Finsolv SLB 101 and
201 by the company Finetex) ;
- copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also known as EO/PO polycondensates, for instance the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic, for instance Synperonic PE/L44 and Synperonic PE/F127, by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof;
- and mixtures thereof . b) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 250C, optionally combined with one or more nonionic
surfactants with an HLB of greater than 8 at 250C, as mentioned above, such as:
- saccharide esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate and sorbitan stearate, and mixtures thereof, for instance Arlatone 2121 sold by the company ICI;
- fatty acid esters (especially of a C8-C24 and preferably Ci6-C22 acid) of polyols, especially of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate such as the product sold under the name Tegin M by the company Goldschmidt, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312 by the company Hϋls, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate or glyceryl ricinoleate,- - the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C by the company Dow Corning, c) anionic surfactants such as:
- Ci6-C30 fatty acid salts, especially those derived from amines, for instance triethanolamine stearate; - polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially those derived from amines or alkali metal salts, and mixtures thereof;
- phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as DEA oleth-10 phosphate (Crodafos N ION from the company Croda) and cetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from the company DSM Nutritional Products) ;
- sulfosuccinates such as Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate and Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate,- - alkyl ether sulfates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;
- isethionates ;
- acylglutamates such as Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate (Amisoft HS-21 R sold by the company Ajinomoto), and mixtures thereof.
Triethanolamine stearate is most particularly suitable for the invention. This is generally obtained by simple mixing of stearic acid and triethanolamine.
Surfactants that allow an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion to be obtained are preferably used.
The compositions according to the invention may comprise any cosmetic active agent, such as active agents chosen from antioxidants, preserving agents, fragrances, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and screening agents, in particular sunscreens.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound (s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition, especially so as not to interfere with the reaction between compounds X and Y.
The first and second, and where appropriate additional, compositions according to the invention may be, independently, in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel, an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water (0/W) emulsion, a wax-in-water or water- in-oil (W/0) emulsion or a multiple emulsion (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or 0/W/O) , in solid, liquid or pasty form, or in the form of a cream, a paste, a mousse, a vesicular dispersion, especially of ionic or nonionic lipids, a two-phase or multiphase lotion, a powder or a paste, especially a soft paste.
A person skilled in the art may select the appropriate galenical form, and also the method for preparing it, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account firstly the nature of the constituents used, especially their solubility in the support, and secondly the intended use of each composition.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below. Unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.
Example 1: preparation of a polydimethylsiloxane polymer containing alpha- triethoxysilane end groups
The following polymer may be prepared:
Reagents used:
Polydimethylsiloxane containing aminopropyl end groups: DMS-A21 from the company Gelest (MW: 500)
- 1, 4-diisocyanatotoluene ("TDI") (MW: 174.16), "purum" grade from Fluka
N-cyclohexylaminomethyltriethoxysilane (MW: 275) : Geniosil XL 926 from the company Wacker.
Procedure
1/ In a first stage, the polydimethylsiloxane containing aminopropyl end groups (also known as the "amino silicone") is reacted with the 1 , 4-diisocyanatotoluene to form a polymer referred to as the "prepolymer" containing α, ω-diisocyanate end groups.
35 g of 1, 4-diisocyanatotoluene (TDI) mixed with 50 g of tetrahydrofuran (THF) , of "purum" grade (Fluka) , are introduced, under a stream of nitrogen, into a
cylindrical reactor equipped with a central stirrer of anchor type, a thermometer, a condenser and a nitrogen sparge inlet, and on which is mounted a dropping funnel. Mixing is performed by stirring at room temperature.
0.45 g of tin 2-ethylhexanoate catalyst is also introduced into this same reactor, into the solution of amino silicone in THF.
In parallel, 500 g of DMS-A21 amino silicone are dissolved in 1400 g of THF and the solution thus obtained is introduced into the dropping funnel mounted on the reactor containing the mixture of diisocyanatotoluene, THF and catalyst. This introduction is performed with stirring and under a stream of nitrogen, at room temperature and over 1 hour 30 minutes. The reactor is cooled if necessary, to prevent the internal temperature from exceeding 5O0C throughout the introduction, which is exothermic.
At the end of the addition, the reaction leads to the quantitative formation of a silicone "prepolymer" containing α, ω-diisocyanate end groups.
b) The silicone prepolymer is reacted with N- cyclohexylaminomethyltriethoxysilane :
A solution of 55 g of Geniosil XL 926 in 50 g of THF is prepared, protected from moisture.
This solution is introduced into a new dropping funnel, which is installed in place of the previous dropping funnel on the reactor.
The said solution of Geniosil XL 926 is poured over 30 minutes into the reactor containing the silicone
prepolymer containing isocyanate end groups, with continued stirring and sparging with nitrogen, and while maintaining the temperature of the reaction medium between 25 and 5O0C in case of exothermicity (otherwise, the reaction is performed at room temperature) .
The mixture is then left to react for a further 2 hours at room temperature .
The end of the reaction may be controlled via infrared monitoring of the absence of NCO absorption bands at 2270 cm"1.
When the reaction is complete, the THF solvent is removed by pouring the synthesis solution into a round- bottomed flask and evaporating off the solvent on a rotary evaporator under partial vacuum.
A polydimethylsiloxane containing α,ω alpha- triethoxysilane end groups is obtained, in the form of a very viscous oil.
2) Example 2: Mascara kit:
The mascara below may be prepared, comprising identical compounds X and Y corresponding to the polymer prepared in Example 1 above.
1st composition Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 245 Fluid from Dow Corning)
13.73 g Black iron oxide
6.27 g
The black iron oxide is dispersed in the silicone oil in a beaker with gentle magnetic stirring.
2nd composition
Polydimethylsiloxane containing alpha-triethoxysilane end groups of Example 1 0.33 g
The first and second compositions above are mixed together extemporaneously and this mixture may then be applied to the eyelashes to obtain a film that has good staying power.
Claims
1. Kit for coating keratin materials, comprising: - at least one first composition and at least one second composition that are conditioned separately,
- the kit comprising at least one compound (X) , at least one compound (Y) , and optionally at least one catalyst,
- the said compounds X and Y being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other,
- at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: -CH2-, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
2. Kit according to Claim 1, characterized in that Z is a -CH2- group.
3. Kit according to Claim 1 or 2 , characterized in that R is a methyl or ethyl group.
4. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that x is equal to 0.
5. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound X and compound Y each comprise at least two alkoxysilane functionalized groups .
6. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each compound X and Y comprises an alkoxysilane functionalized reactive group at each of its ends.
7. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compounds X and/or Y, which may be identical or different, predominantly comprise units of formula (III) below: in which the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, and S is equal to 0 , 1, 2 or 3.
8. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compounds X and/or Y, which may be identical or different, comprise units of formula (IV) : (R9 2SiO2 ) f ( IV) in which R9 is as defined in Claim 1, and f is a number ranging from 2 to 5000, preferably from 3 to 3000 and better still from 5 to 1000.
9. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one of the said compounds X and Y is a polyorganosiloxane chosen from the polymers of formula (V) :
R1.. R9 R9 R1..
10. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a catalyst.
11. Kit according to Claim 10, characterized in that the catalyst is present in one or the other of the compositions comprising X and/or Y or in a separate composition.
12. Kit according to either of Claims 10 and 11, characterized in that the catalyst is not present in the same composition as compounds X and Y.
13. Kit according to one of Claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the catalyst is chosen from organometallic compounds of metals such as titanium, tin and bismuth, basic compounds and organic or mineral acids, and mixtures thereof.
14. Kit according to one of Claims 10 to 13, characterized in that the catalyst is chosen from organometallic compounds of titanium, of tin and of bismuth, and mixtures thereof.
15. Kit according to one of Claims 10 to 14, characterized in that the catalyst is present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it.
16. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound X represents from 0.5% to 95%, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it.
17. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y represents from 0.05% to 95%, preferably from 1% to 90% and better still from 5% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it.
18. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one of the first and second compositions comprises a liquid fatty phase.
19. Kit according to Claim 18, characterized in that the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one organic solvent or oil chosen from volatile oils and nonvolatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
20. Kit according to Claim 19, characterized in that the oil(s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 1% to 90% by weight and preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
21. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second compositions each have a volatile oil content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight and better still less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
22. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second compositions are anhydrous .
23. Kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second compositions are mascara compositions.
24. Kit according to one of Claims 1 to 23, characterized in that the first and second compositions are compositions for coating bodily or facial skin, more particularly bodily or facial skin makeup compositions.
25. Kit according to one of Claims 1 to 23, characterized in that the first and second compositions are lipstick compositions.
26. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and second compositions are conditioned separately in the same packaging article .
27. Cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, which consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one coat of a mixture of a first composition and of a second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst,
- the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and
- at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: a -CH2- group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
the groups R9 independently represent a radical chosen from alkyl groups containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, phenyl and fluoroalkyl groups, G is -CH2- and c is an integer ranging from 1 to 6 , the said mixture being obtained either extemporaneously before application to the keratin materials, or simultaneously with its application to the keratin materials .
28. Cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, which consists in: a. extemporaneously mixing at least one first composition and at least one second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst,
- the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and
- at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: a -CH2- group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
29. Cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials : a. of at least one coat of a first composition; b. of at least one coat of a second composition, each first and second composition comprising at least one compound chosen from: a compound X, a compound Y, and optionally a catalyst, the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups per polymer molecule, the said groups having the formula (I) below in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group,
R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: a -CH2- group, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
30. Process according to one of Claims 27 to 29, characterized in that at least one of the said first and second compositions comprises a catalyst.
31. Process according to one of Claims 27 to 30, characterized in that it comprises an additional step that consists in depositing on the coat(s) of compositions comprising X and Y at least one coat of a third composition comprising a film- forming polymer and an organic or aqueous solvent medium.
32. Process according to one of Claims 27 to 31, characterized in that it also comprises the application of an additional composition comprising an aqueous phase .
33. Composition for coating keratin materials, comprising : - at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the said compounds, which may be identical or different, being capable of reacting together via a condensation reaction when they are placed in contact with each other, and at least one of the said compounds X and Y being a silicone compound and at least one of the said compounds X and Y comprising at least two alkoxysilane functionalized reactive groups, the said groups having the formula (I) below (D in which the radicals R independently represent a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl or isobutyl group, R1 is a methyl or ethyl group, x is equal to 0 , 1 or 2 , and
Z is chosen from: -CH2-, combinations of divalent hydrocarbon-based radicals not comprising any ethylenic unsaturation and of siloxane segments of formula (II) :
34. Composition according to Claim 33, characterized in that it is anhydrous.
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR0755480A FR2916970B1 (en) | 2007-06-05 | 2007-06-05 | KIT COMPRISING X AND Y FUNCTIONALIZED ALPHA-ALCOXYSILANE COMPOUNDS. |
| FR0755480 | 2007-06-05 | ||
| US94455207P | 2007-06-18 | 2007-06-18 | |
| US60/944,552 | 2007-06-18 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2008148805A2 true WO2008148805A2 (en) | 2008-12-11 |
| WO2008148805A3 WO2008148805A3 (en) | 2009-11-05 |
Family
ID=39111883
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP2008/056920 Ceased WO2008148805A2 (en) | 2007-06-05 | 2008-06-04 | Kit comprising alpha-alkoxysilane functionalized compounds x and y |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2916970B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2008148805A2 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20140343016A1 (en) * | 2011-11-09 | 2014-11-20 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a modified alpha-alkoxysilane |
| US9198851B2 (en) | 2012-01-23 | 2015-12-01 | L'oreal | Composition comprising at least one specific alkoxysilane polymer |
Family Cites Families (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19733168A1 (en) * | 1997-07-31 | 1999-02-04 | Wacker Chemie Gmbh | Organopolysiloxane compositions which can be crosslinked with the elimination of alcohols to give elastomers |
| FR2799967B1 (en) * | 1999-10-21 | 2001-12-07 | Oreal | PROCESS FOR IMPROVING NON-TRANSFER PROPERTIES OF COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS |
| US6512072B1 (en) * | 2000-06-12 | 2003-01-28 | Dow Corning Corporation | Fast cure film forming formulation |
| FR2833487B1 (en) * | 2001-12-18 | 2004-08-27 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING POLYMERS WITH COMPLEMENTARY CHEMICAL FUNCTIONS |
| DE10201703A1 (en) * | 2002-01-17 | 2003-08-07 | Consortium Elektrochem Ind | Crosslinkable polymer blends containing alkoxysilane-terminated polymers |
| FR2891739B1 (en) * | 2005-10-07 | 2012-08-17 | Oreal | METHOD FOR MAKE-UP OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS WITH ELECTROPHILIC MONOMER |
| WO2007071706A2 (en) * | 2005-12-20 | 2007-06-28 | L'oréal | Process for making up comprising the application of compounds a and b, at least one of which is silicone based |
-
2007
- 2007-06-05 FR FR0755480A patent/FR2916970B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2008
- 2008-06-04 WO PCT/EP2008/056920 patent/WO2008148805A2/en not_active Ceased
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US20140343016A1 (en) * | 2011-11-09 | 2014-11-20 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a modified alpha-alkoxysilane |
| US9364410B2 (en) * | 2011-11-09 | 2016-06-14 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a modified alpha-alkoxysilane |
| US9198851B2 (en) | 2012-01-23 | 2015-12-01 | L'oreal | Composition comprising at least one specific alkoxysilane polymer |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| FR2916970A1 (en) | 2008-12-12 |
| WO2008148805A3 (en) | 2009-11-05 |
| FR2916970B1 (en) | 2010-03-12 |
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