WO2008034699A1

WO2008034699A1 - Process for preparing a cosmetic composition from plant or mineral extracts

Info

Publication number: WO2008034699A1
Application number: PCT/EP2007/059006
Authority: WO
Inventors: Véronique Chevalier; Quang Lan Nguyen
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2006-09-20
Filing date: 2007-08-29
Publication date: 2008-03-27
Anticipated expiration: 2009-03-20

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a process for preparing a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises a step of percolating pressurized fluid through at least one natural plant or mineral substance in solid or pasty form, then a step of incorporating the extract obtained into a dry support. The dry support may be, for example, a sprayed powder, an anhydrous composition, a thin film or a polymer comprising LCST units or a thermogelling polymer. The invention also relates to the composition obtained and to its use in the cosmetics field, in particular on the skin.

Description

Process for preparing a cosmetic composition from plant or mineral extracts

The subject of the present invention is a process for preparing a composition for topical application, comprising a step of percolating natural plant or mineral extracts, followed by the incorporation of this extract into a dry support. Another subject of the invention is the composition obtained, and its use for treating keratinous materials, in particular skin and human keratinous fibres such as hair.

More particularly, the compositions considered according to the invention may form a skincare product.

In cosmetics, it is always sought to improve the cosmetic properties of keratinous materials. It is thus known to use in compositions for topical application active agents and especially plant extracts whose biological activity is well known and which make it possible to keep the skin in good condition or to improve the condition of the skin, especially by combating the signs of skin ageing. They also make it possible to nourish the skin and to provide the skin and the other keratinous materials treated by these compositions with all the benefits associated with these plant extracts.

However, plant extracts have the drawback of being difficult to preserve and of being unstable, which leads to the formation of by-products and the appearance of discoloration that is neither desired nor desirable and which is difficult to control both in terms of colour and intensity. Furthermore, it is also necessary to add preservatives to improve their preservation. Now, however, it is increasingly sought to make products without preservative. There is therefore the need to provide cosmetic compositions containing plant extracts without having the aforementioned instability problems.

The Applicant surprisingly has discovered that by combining an aqueous extract obtained by a process of percolating natural plant or mineral substances, and a dry support, it was possible to obtain cosmetic compositions that contain stable extracts.

The invention thus relates to a process for preparing a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises (1) a step of percolating pressurized fluid through at least one natural plant or mineral substance in solid or pasty form, and (2) a step of incorporating the extract obtained into a dry support.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to directly obtain a composition for topical application, which may or may not be foaming, incorporating active agents of sterile plant or mineral origin, without mechanical intervention to ensure a good dispersion. This is carried out by bringing together extracts of natural plant or mineral products with a dry support, this support preferably being preservative-free .

As the composition prepared according to the process of the invention is intended for topical application and in particular for application to keratinous materials, it is physiologically acceptable. The expression "physiologically acceptable composition" is understood to mean a non-toxic composition, capable of being applied to keratinous materials, and which is pleasant to use. The expression "keratinous materials" is understood to mean the skin, scalp, lips and/or integuments such as nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair. The composition may especially be a cosmetic or dermatological composition. The percolation step makes it possible to obtain a stable aqueous extract, and the composition obtained comprises the mixture comprising the extract obtained at the end of the percolation and the dry support, the latter possibly containing active agents and any other compound normally used in the cosmetics field. Thus, the process according to the invention has the advantage of allowing not only the preparation of compositions without preservatives but also the preparation of compositions "on demand", as the solid support may be adapted to the purpose desired by the user. It is thus possible to obtain compositions, and especially emulsions, prepared in situ at the time of application to the skin, adapted to the person on which they will be applied depending on their skin type and the desired effect. It is also possible therefore to obtain compositions containing plant or mineral extracts and active agents that are normally incompatible with such extracts but which will be in the dry support and therefore mixed with the extracts just at the time of use.

Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of the composition obtained according to the process of the invention, for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, and especially skin.

A final subject of the invention is a packaging device that makes it possible to implement the preparation process of the present invention.

Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples that follow.

Percolation process

The percolation process is carried out according to the usual percolation technique. A fluid whose temperature is preferably greater than or equal to 3O⁰C, preferably ranging from 3O⁰C to 15O⁰C, more preferably ranging from 4O⁰C to 12O⁰C and better from 70 to 8O⁰C is passed, under a pressure preferably of at least 3 bar (3 x 10⁵ Pa), over a very short time interval, less than one minute, through at least one natural plant or mineral substance, in solid or pasty form, preferably in solid form and more preferably in pulverulent form.

This process results in the production of a ready-to- use stable extract, intended to be used shortly after it is produced, for example, in the 5 minutes following its production, especially after cooling to a cosmetically acceptable temperature, preferably below 6O⁰C. This extract may be used up to one week after it is produced.

Given the very short preparation time, the extracts obtained by the process described above and the cosmetic compositions containing them may be prepared "on demand" by mixing the percolation extracts and the dry supports depending on the cosmetic properties desired.

According to another embodiment, the natural plant or mineral substances may be packaged in a ready-to-use device of "kit" type and it is not necessary to first determine the concentrations of the natural substances in solution, which limits the measurement errors of the user.

Another subject of the present invention is a kit for implementing the process defined above, comprising: one or more containers suitable for pressurized percolation by fluid means, the container or containers delimiting at least one housing that contains at least one natural plant or mineral substance; and - one or more dry supports. The container may especially be a capsule or a sachet.

This kit makes it possible to produce a composition obtained by the process according to the invention, the percolation extract being added to the dry support.

Moreover, the process according to the invention makes it possible to avoid using multi -compartment flasks, which makes the process particularly economical and more reliable for the user.

Percolation is a movement of fluid through a saturated porous medium that allows the flow of the fluid under the action or the effect of pressure.

The fluid may be composed of water vapour optionally accompanied by liquid water, or of one or more physiologically acceptable, especially organic, liquid and/or gaseous solvents, or else of a mixture of water vapour optionally accompanied by liquid water, and of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents. Preferably, the fluid comprises at least water vapour which may be accompanied by liquid water, and even more preferably it is water vapour which may be accompanied by liquid water.

By way of organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of Ci-C₄ alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol ; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and also aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol , and mixtures thereof .

The percolation fluid may also be a mineral water such as, for example water from Vichy (Lucas, Hδpital, Grande-Grille springs) ; water from Roche Posay, water from Avene, or water from Vittel . It is also possible to add thereto one or more solvents, as indicated above .

The process of the present invention may be carried out using a conventional device that enables a pressurized fluid to be generated, at a temperature preferably greater than or equal to 3O⁰C, and even more preferably ranging from 3O⁰C to 15O⁰C. Such a device comprises a pressure-resistant chamber, equipped with a heating unit, and also a circuit for conveying the fluid produced to the plant or mineral extract .

According to another embodiment, the device comprises a reservoir for liquid (s) and also a pump that enables the liquid or liquids to be conveyed to the chamber.

The liquid contained in the reservoir is the percolation fluid as described above.

One particularly useful device for implementing the process of the present invention is an "espresso" type coffee machine. Such machines are well known in the art. For example, these machines are described in documents AT-A-168405, US-A-2688911 , DE-A-32433870 and IT-A-1265636, and in Applications FR0650303, FR0650304, FR0650306, FR0650308.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the percolation step is carried out with a fluid at a temperature above 3O⁰C, preferably between 3O⁰C and 15O⁰C, under a pressure preferably of at least 3 bar, better of at least 4 bar, even better of at least 10 bar and more particularly between 10 and 30 bar.

The natural plant or mineral substance or substances, in solid or pasty form, may be used directly, in the device generating the pressurized fluid, in a container intended for this use. They may also be packaged in a particular packaging device of the single dose type, comprising a sealed housing delimited by at least one wall that is at least partly permeable to a fluid pressurized to at least 3 bar. Such devices are, for example, described in documents WO-A-00/56629 , EP-A-512470, US-A-5897899 or WO-A- 99/03753. These packaging devices are in general impermeable to air, moisture and/or light.

According to one particular embodiment, the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets. According to another embodiment, the housing is delimited by a tray sealed by a cover .

These devices may be manufactured from woven or non- woven materials, from plastic or plant material, for example, from cellulose, from metal such as aluminium or from a composite. Such devices are, for example, described in documents WO-A-00/56629, EP-A-512470, US- A-5897899 or WO-A- 99/03753.

Another subject of the invention is a container, especially in the form of a sachet or a capsule, suitable for pressurized percolation by fluid means, the container delimiting at least one housing containing at least one mineral substance in solid or pasty form. The mineral substance or substances may optionally be mixed with at least one plant substance.

As indicated above, the housing may be delimited by two sealed sheets, or may be delimited by a tray sealed by a cover.

Natural substance To prepare the extract, it is possible to use any natural plant or mineral substance, in solid form or in pasty form, preferably in solid form, and even more preferably in pulverulent form. In the present invention, the expression "solid form" is understood to mean a compound or composition that is in the form of a block (or tablet) , a sheet or a powder, a powder being a solid finely divided into particles, as opposed to a composition in cream or gel form which are soft compositions. Furthermore, the term "pulverulent" is understood to mean a compound or composition that is in powder form (composed of particles or grains) .

The expression "pasty form" in the sense of the present invention is understood to mean a consistency intermediate between a solid phase and a liquid phase. The viscosity of this pasty phase is preferably greater than 0.1 Pa. s, and even more preferably greater than 1 Pa. s, this being at 25⁰C with a shear rate of 10 s^"1.

The natural plant substances that can be used according to the invention may be wood, leaves, herbs, flowers, fruits, roots, bark, pulp, peel, berries, beans, plant seeds and also seaweed (especially red, blue, green and brown seaweed) .

The natural mineral substances that can be used according to the invention may be mineral powders, for example, powders of volcanic or non-volcanic rocks, corals or pearls. As volcanic rocks, mention may be made especially of polymetallic nodules.

These pulverulent materials may be used alone or as a mixture .

The natural substance or substances may be used as a mixture with one or more solid or pasty, and preferably pulverulent, adjuvants which may be used, for example, to improve the extraction. Once the percolation has finished, these adjuvants remain in the percolator. The adjuvants may be chosen from clays, salts, anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, natural or synthetic thickeners, glass beads, silica, nylon, waxes, pigments, alumina, titanium dioxide, zeolites, polymethyl methacrylate

(PMMA) , chitosan, maltodextrin, cyclodextrin, monosaccharides or disaccharides such as glucose, saccharose, sorbitol, fructose, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, particles of resin such as silicone or silica beads, talc, polyaspartic acid, borosilicates especially of calcium, polyethylene, cotton, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) , cellulose and derivatives thereof, superabsorbent compounds, magnesium or calcium carbonates, starch, optionally modified, maize grains, polydimethylsiloxane gums, polyacrylamide, porous hydroxyapatite, silk, collagen, sawdust, Fucus powder, flours or extracts of wheat, rice, peas, lupin, soya bean or barley, crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone, calcium alginate, activated carbon, particles of poly (vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile) , especially those sold under the general name EXPANCEL® by Akzo Nobel, and mixtures thereof .

When one or more adjuvants is present, the natural substance or substances are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 99% by weight, better still from 1 to 80% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of natural substance (s) and adjuvants.

The amount of extract in the final composition obtained by the process of the present invention is in general between about 0.01 to 99% by weight of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05 to 50%, and even more preferably between 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dry support

The dry support receiving the extract obtained by percolation may be in various forms such as: - sprayed powders such as for example those described in document EP-A- 938892, which are powders that comprise modified starch and an oily phase,-

- anhydrous pulverulent compositions, in particular of the "marshmallow" type, such as for example those described in documents EP-A-966956 and EP-A-968702, containing a powder based on solid particles of expanded polymers and a binder. These particles are especially particles of copolymers of acrylonitrile and an acrylic or styrenic monomer and/or of vinylidene chloride; thin anhydrous water-soluble films such as for example, those described in document EP-A-I 588 694; foaming tablets which may be more or less gelled, such as the effervescent blocks based on bicarbonate and acid, such as the mixture of sodium bicarbonate and citric acid, blocks that can be used especially in the bath; water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers comprising LCST units or thermogelling polymers, which are in the form of powders, such as for example, those described in documents EP-A-I 307 501, EP-A-I 355 625, EP-A-I 355 999, EP-A-I 363 964 and WO-A-04/006872.

The dry supports used according to the invention may, in addition, contain one or more active agents especially chosen from cosmetic active agents such as:

- anti -ageing and anti -wrinkle agents, such as anti- glycation agents, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or that prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes or that stimulate the differentiation of the keratinocytes, and myorelaxants,- - moisturizing agents such as for example sodium lactate; polyols, and in particular glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols,- mannitol; amino acids,- hyaluronic acid; lanolin; urea and mixtures containing urea, such as NMF ("natural moisturizing factor"); urea derivatives, especially hydroxyalkyl ureas such as hydroxyethyl urea commercially available in the form of a 50 wt% mixture in water, from National Starch under the trade name HYDROVANCE® ; vaseline,- salts and derivatives of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, such as N- lauroyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid; essential fatty acids,- essential oils,- and mixtures thereof;

- depigmenting or bleaching agents such as for example kojic acid and derivatives thereof; hydroquinone and derivatives thereof such as arbutin and esters thereof; vitamin C and derivatives thereof such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate; salts such as calcium D pantetheine sulphonate,- ellagic acid and derivatives thereof; rucinol; linoleic acid and derivatives thereof; plant extracts, and especially extracts of liquorice, mulberry or skullcap; glutathione and precursors thereof; cysteine and precursors thereof; the compounds derived from aminophenol described in document WO-A- 99/10318, such as in particular N-ethyloxycarbonyl-4- aminophenol, N-ethyloxycarbonyl-O-ethyloxycarbonyl-4- aminophenol, N-cholesteryloxycarbonyl -4 -aminophenol , N- ethylamino-carbonyl -4 -aminophenol ; and mixtures of these compounds,-

- desquamating agents,- - agents for combating pollution and free radicals;

- slimming agents such as the xanthic derivatives like caffeine and derivatives thereof;

- agents that act on the microcirculation such as horse chestnut ,- - agents that act on the energy metabolism of cells,-

- tightening agents which may be chosen, for example from synthetic polymers; polymers of natural origin, mixed silicates, colloidal particles of inorganic fillers,- - anti-acne agents such as for example, hydroxyacids, in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; 2 , 4 , 4 ' -trichloro-2 ' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) ; 3 , 4 , 4 ' -trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) ; hexamidine isethionate,- benzoyl peroxide; phytic acid; octopirox; pyrithione zinc, tetracyclins such as erythromycin, and mixtures of these compounds; and anti- inflammatory and/or anti- irritant and/or soothing agents such as bisabolol, aloe vera, allantoin, Sepivital EPC (diphosphoric ester of vitamin E and C) from Seppic, omega-3 unsaturated oils such as Muscat rose, blackcurrant, Echium and fish oils, capryloyl glycine, Seppicalm VG (sodium palmitoylproline and nymphea alba) from Seppic.

As active agents, mention may be made more particularly of α-hydroxyacids especially acids derived from fruit, such as glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric, and mandelic acids, derivatives and mixtures thereof; β- hydroxyacids such as salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid or n- dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid; α-ketoacids such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C and derivatives thereof such as its salts like sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbyl phosphate; its esters such as ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl propionate, or its sugars such as glycosylated ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof; β-ketoacids,- retinoids such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and derivatives thereof, and also the retinoids described in documents FR-A-2 570 377, EP-A-199 636, EP-A-325 540, EP-A-402 072; adapalene,- carotenoids,- vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP or niacinamide) and derivatives thereof (tocopherol nicotinate, esters of nicotinyl alcohol and of carboxylic acids, 2- chloronicotinamide , 6 -methylnicotinamide ,

6-aminonicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, N, N- dimethylnicotinamide, N- (hydroxymethyl) nicotinamide, imide of quinolinic acid, nicotinanilide, N- benzylnicotinamide, N-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methylisonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol and niaprazine) ; vitamin B5 (or panthenol or panthenyl alcohol or 2 , 4-dihydroxy-N- (3- hydroxypropyl) -3, 3 -dimethyl -butanamide, in its various forms: D-panthenol, DL-panthenol) , and derivatives thereof and similar compounds, such as calcium panthotenate, panthetine, pantotheine, ethyl panthenyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose, and natural compounds containing them such as royal jelly; vitamin D and its similar compounds such as those described in document WO-A-00/26167 ; vitamin F or its similar compounds such as mixtures of unsaturated acids having at least one double bond and especially mixtures of linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, or compounds containing them and especially oils of plant origin containing them, such as, for example jojoba oil and mixtures thereof.

As active agents, mention may also be made of organic UVA and/or UVB screening agents, such as for example derivatives of salicylic acid, derivatives of cinnamic acid, derivatives of β, β' -diphenylacrylate, derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid, 4 -methyl benzylidene camphor, 2-phenyl-5-benzimidazole sulphonic acid, derivatives of 1 , 3 , 5-triazine, derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, 1 , 4 -benzine- [di (3-methylidene-lO-camphosulphonic) ] acid, derivatives of benzophenone, silane derivatives or polyorganosiloxanes having a benzophenone group anthranilates, compounds comprising at least two benzoazolyl groups or at least one benzodiazolyl group per molecule, siliceous derivatives of N-substituted benzimidazolyl-benzazoles or of benzofuranyl- benzazoles, triazine derivatives, benzotriazole silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The dry supports may also contain one or more physical screening agents such as the oxides of titanium (amorphous or crystalline titanium dioxide in rutile and/or anatase form), of zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium, in particular in the form of particles having a microscale or nanoscale (nanopigments) size. They may also contain the customary adjuvants used in cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as surfactants, polymers, oils, gelling agents, solvents, fillers, fibres, chelating agents, micas, fragrances, etc .

Of course, the person skilled in the art will be sure to choose this or these optional compounds so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition or additions.

These cosmetic and dermatological compositions obtained by the process according to the invention may be in any galenic form depending on the dry support used. They may, for example, be in the form of aqueous, water/alcohol or water/glycol solutions or gels, or in the form of emulsions that are more or less fluid. In particular, the compositions obtained by the process according to the invention may form a skincare product, having a nourishing, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, anti- drying effect or any other skincare application. The composition may also be a makeup product such as a foundation to colour the skin and/or protect it while caring for it.

These compositions have a pH preferably between 2 to 11, and better between 3 to 9.

The invention also relates to an, in particular cosmetic composition capable of being obtained by the process according to the invention. This composition has the advantage of being able to be free of preservatives .

One particular embodiment of the invention consists in applying the composition obtained via a device that does not require human intervention and that is optionally equipped with a means of cooling.

Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process as defined above, and that this composition is applied to the keratinous material. The keratinous material is preferably skin.

The application to keratinous materials may be carried out, for example, via an operator or via a device that does not require human intervention. The application time may vary between 15 seconds and 1 hour.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are weight percentages except where mentioned otherwise.

Example 1 :

3 g of Skimmia japonica powder were placed in a capsule and the capsule was placed in a commercial espresso machine. The steam produced by the machine then passed through this pulverulent mixture until a composition (A) was obtained having a final volume of 25 ml. The extract was recovered in 100 g of a skincare powder having the following composition:

- Modified starch (C* Flo 06205) 35%; - Silicone oil (Phenyltrimethicone sold under the name DC 556 Fluid by Dow Corning) 60%; and

- Ascorbic acid 5%

Thus, an emulsion was obtained that was ready to be applied to the skin to give a radiant complexion.

Example 2 : Vichy water vapour was passed, according to the same operating procedure as that of Example 1, over 2 g of powder comprising powder of Hibiscus flowers and 2 g of lemon peel powder, which were located in the container provided to receive a solid compound. The water vapour was passed through until an aqueous extract of 20 ml was obtained, an extract which was recovered in a beaker containing 100 g of the following composition which was in the form of a white, non-tacky, easily mouldable, easily wettable or hydratable paste that was easy to apply and to remove, soft to the touch and had a good foaming power:

- Sodium cocoyl isethionate (Jordapon CI sold by Jordan) 44%;

- Glycerol 50%

- Fragrance qs

- Expancel 551 DE 5%

This composition was hydrated by the aqueous extract obtained by percolation, then kneaded until it foamed in the hollow of the hand. The foam obtained was then applied in a thin layer to the skin of the face to form a mask and it was left for a few moments.

In applying the foam to the face a slight release of heat is felt, which ensures opening of the pores of the skin and the release of impurities. Next, the active agents contained in the plant extract penetrate the skin to clean it in depth. The composition is easily removed with water. Example 3 :

Water vapour was passed, according to the same operating procedure as that of Example 1, over a capsule containing 4.5 g of a powder that was a mixture of 1.5 g of wild rosehip powder and 3 g of camomile leaf powder until 15 ml of aqueous extract was produced which was recovered in a beaker containing a thin anhydrous rectangular film having a size of 3 cm x 2 cm and having the following composition:

- Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 68%;

- Glycerol 30%;

- Propylene glycol 15%

Thus a composition was obtained that was ready to be applied to the skin to lighten the complexion.

Example 4 : Water vapour was passed, according to the same operating procedure as that of Example 1, over a capsule containing 4.5 g of a powder that was a mixture of 1.5 g of wild rosehip powder and 3 g of camomile leaf powder until 25 ml of aqueous extract was obtained which was recovered in a beaker containing a 100 g effervescent block having the following composition:

Sodium bicarbonate 40%

Sodium chloride 12% Citric acid 30%

Microcrystalline cellulose 5%

Disodium lauryl sulphosuccinate 1%

Silica 5%

Vegetable oil 6.5% Fragrance 0.5%

By mixing the extract and the block, an effervescent composition was obtained that can be used in the bath.

Claims

1. Process for preparing a composition for topical application, characterized in that it comprises (1) a step of percolating pressurized fluid through at least one natural plant or mineral substance in solid or pasty form, and (2) a step of incorporating the extract obtained into a dry support .

2. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the fluid is composed of water vapour optionally accompanied by liquid water, or of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents, or else of a mixture of water vapour optionally accompanied by liquid water, and of one or more physiologically acceptable liquid and/or gaseous solvents .

3. Process according to Claim 1 or 2 , characterized in that the pressure is at least 3 bar and preferably at least 4 bar.

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the temperature is above

3O⁰C.

5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural plant substance is chosen from wood, leaves, herbs, flowers, fruits, roots, bark, pulp, peel, berries, beans, plant seeds or seaweed.

6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural mineral substance is chosen from powders of rocks, corals or pearls .

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural substance is used as a mixture with one or more solid or pasty adjuvants .

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dry support is in the form of a sprayed powder, an anhydrous pulverulent composition, a thin anhydrous water-soluble film, a foaming tablet, a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer comprising LCST units or a thermogelling polymer .

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dry support contains one or more active agents.

10. Composition capable of being obtained by the process according to any one of the preceding claims.

11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is free of preservative.

12. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition is prepared according to the process defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 , and that this composition is applied to the keratinous material.

13. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the keratinous material is skin.

14. Container, especially in the form of a sachet or a capsule, suitable for pressurized percolation by fluid means and capable of being used for implementing the process according to Claim 1, the container delimiting at least one housing containing at least one mineral substance in solid or pasty form.

15. Container according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the mineral substance or substances are mixed with at least one plant substance.

16. Container according to Claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the housing is delimited by two sealed sheets.

17. Container according to Claim 14 or 15, characterized in that the housing is delimited by a tray sealed by a cover.

18. Kit for implementing the process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9 , comprising: - one or more containers suitable for pressurized percolation by fluid means, the container or containers delimiting at least one housing that contains at least one natural plant or mineral substance; and - one or more dry supports.