WO2008015341A2 - Use of a plant extract as active agent for increasing melanin synthesis in melanocytes - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a plant extract in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, as active agent intended to promote increased melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or of the hair bulb. The plant extract is mainly constituted of compounds of protein and peptide nature and is obtained from plants selected from the genus Amaranthus or Oryza or the species Pisum sativum L. (pea), Phaseolus vulgaris (bean) and Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa).

Description

 USE OF PLANT EXTRACT AS ACTIVE AGENT TO INCREASE MELANIN SYNTHESIS IN MELANOCYTES

The present invention relates to the use of a plant extract in a cosmetic composition; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidemic or hair bulb, with a view to giving it a tanned appearance, or to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun. The present invention also relates to the use of a plant extract for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of the synthesis of melanin in the melanocytes of the epidermis or of the hair bulb for therapeutic purposes, for repigmenting depigmented skin, for example in the case of vitiligo, or for pigmenting the hairs or hair, especially in the treatment and prevention of canities. The plant extract is mainly composed of protein and peptide compounds and is obtained from plants selected from the genera Amaranthus or Oryza or the species Pisum sativum L. (pea), Phaseolus vulgaris (bean) and Theobroma cacao L. ( cocoa).

The color of human hair and skin is a function of various factors including seasons of the year, race, sex and age. It is mainly determined by the concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that, via particular organelles, melanosomes, synthesize melanin. The synthesis of melanin or melanogenesis is a complex process whose precise mechanisms are not yet elucidated and which schematically involves the following steps:

Tyrosine * "Dopa * Dopaquinone * ^" Dopachrome * "Melanin In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit, which has a melanocyte surrounded by about 40 neighboring keratinocytes, as melanin is synthesized in melanosomes move from the perinuclear region to the end of the dendrites of melanocytes, and by phagocytosis the end of the dendrites is captured by keratinocytes, degraded membranes and redistributed melanosomes in the keratinocytes, where they will protection up to natural desquamation of the cells. The production of melanin, as well as its transport, is regulated by various factors such as, for example, UV radiation, hormones or chemicals. Thus, an increase in exposure to UV radiation causes the synthesis of pigments and browning of the skin. The pigmentation of hair and hair requires the presence of melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle. The hair follicle is a tabular invagination of the epidemic that penetrates to the deep layers of the dermis. The melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle are in an active state, that is, they synthesize melanin. These pigments are transmitted to the keratinocytes intended to form the hair shaft, which will lead to the growth of a pigmented hair or hair.

It is accepted that canitia (natural whitening of hair) is associated with a decrease of melanin in the hair shaft.

Nowadays, it is important to look good and tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is not always without risk insofar as it requires prolonged exposures to UV radiation, which are likely in return to induce an alteration of skin cells, especially in the case of individuals of clear phototypes. The skin ages prematurely, becomes dry and is characterized by many wrinkles and age spots. It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning that is compatible with the health requirements of individuals. On the other hand, we know that in most populations the maintenance of a constant coloring of the hair, sign of youth, is a strong aspiration. The search for compounds that can promote the synthesis of melanin in the skin and hair is a concern of dermatology and cosmetics. These new compounds are particularly useful as an alternative to sun exposure, to prepare the skin and protect it from the sun's rays, to obtain a tan more intense after exposure to the sun, to prolong the natural pigmentation of the skin after exposure to the sun. sun or to prevent and / or limit and / or stop the development of canities and even maintain the natural pigmentation of hair and / or gray or white hairs.

By natural pigmentation of the skin is meant the coloring of the skin or hair determined by the melanin concentration.

In this respect, many solutions have been proposed by adding exogenous dyes. By exogenous dye, a dye, or a chemical substance, is meant to react with the superficial layers of the epidemic to cause the appearance of a pigmentation of the skin completely independent of the presence of melanin. One of the best known exogenous dyes is dihydroxyacetone, or DHA. However, only the stimulation of the pigmentation of the skin and / or the hair by the natural way allows a real protection vis-à-vis the UV radiations and remains the ideal way of stimulation of the pigmentation. Thus, it has been proposed in the prior art the preparation and use of activators of melanin biosynthesis (FR828097, FR 2831438, FR 2845285) involving hormones (alpha MSH or its derivatives WO2006037188) or prostaglandins ( WO9511003).

On the other hand, there are pathologies related to pigmentation such as vitiligo which is an autoimmune disease characterized by the appearance on the skin of white patches related to a lack of pigmentation or pityriasis versicolor, a superficial mycosis. causing the appearance of light spots that may appear immediately or after exposure to the sun.

The main objective of the present invention is to provide a novel active agent that significantly promotes melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis and hair bulb. The inventors have indeed demonstrated a biological activity and, more particularly dermatological and cosmetic, plant extracts obtained from plants selected from the genera Amaranthus or Oryza or species Pisum sativum L. (pea), Phaseolus vulgaris (bean) ) and Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa).

The cosmetic use of plant extracts obtained from this type of plant has already been described in numerous patents. Thus patents FR 2 746 303, JP8012549 and JP10330242 describe the use of extracts of amaranth in the field of cosmetics. Similarly, the use of rice extracts in the field of cosmetics has already been described, inter alia, in patents US5853705 and JP9087133. On the other hand, cosmetic compositions for controlling the pigmentation of the skin, containing cocoa polyphenols have been described (WO 2006/117465). However, to the knowledge of the applicant, the use of plant extracts, mainly consisting of protein and peptide compounds, obtained from plants selected from the genera Amaranthus or Oryza or species Pisum sativum L. (pea), Phaseolus vulgaris (bean) and Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa), to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb, has not yet been exposed.

By pro-pigmenting active agent is meant a compound capable of promoting the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb.

By hair and hair is meant all the hairy appendages and in particular also the eyelashes and the eyebrows.

The compositions according to the invention may be applied by any appropriate route, in particular oral, parenteral or external topical, and their formulation will be adapted by those skilled in the art, in particular for cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are intended for topical administration. They contain a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetologically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, in particular a dermatologically acceptable medium.

Thus, the subject of the invention is primarily the use in a cosmetic composition of a plant extract, consisting mainly of compounds of protein and peptide nature; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb.

The term "extract" refers to any isolated substance or preparation obtained from plant material. It is obtained, for example, by dissolving the active components by means of solvents (such as water, alcohol, etc.) then by concentration and purification of these active ingredients, for example by evaporation of the solvents.

More particularly according to the invention one of the many plants of the genus is used.

Amaranthus or Oryza or species Pisum sativum L. (pea), Phaseolus vulgaris (bean) or Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa).

When using the plants of the genus Amaranthus, the species Amaranthus hypochondriacus (amaranth) can advantageously be used according to the invention.

When plants of the genus Oryza are used, the species Oryza sativa L. (rice) can advantageously be used according to the invention.

According to the invention the plant material used will be the seed or the grain and preferably the seed freed from its envelope by a dehulling step.

Any method of extraction or purification known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the hydrolyzate according to the invention.

In a first step, the plant is ground using a plant grinder. The powder thus obtained may subsequently be "delipidated" with the aid of a conventional organic solvent (such as, for example, an alcohol, hexane or acetone).

The extraction of proteins from the plant is then conventionally carried out (Osborne, 1924); the crushed plant being suspended in an alkaline solution. The soluble fraction is collected after centrifugation and filtration steps, this crude solution then constituting a first form of the extract containing the proteins, carbohydrates and optionally lipids. Proteins are then precipitated by varying the ionic strength and acidifying the medium to remove soluble components and nucleic acids. The precipitate is then washed with a solvent such as, for example, ethanol or methanol and the solvent is evaporated by drying in vacuo. The protein-rich precipitate is redissolved in water or other solvent and then constitutes a more purified form of the extract.

The extraction can also be carried out in neutral or acidic medium. The precipitation step is then carried out using a conventional precipitation agent such as salts (sodium chloride, ammonium sulfate). The precipitate obtained can be separated from the precipitating agents by dialysis after redissolving in water or another solvent. At this stage, the extract obtained contains at least 70% of compounds of protein and peptide nature.

The isolated protein fraction according to the invention is then hydrolyzed under mild conditions to generate polypeptides and soluble peptides. Hydrolysis is defined as a chemical reaction involving the cleavage of a molecule by water, this reaction being possible in a neutral, acidic or basic medium. According to the invention, the hydrolysis is carried out chemically and / or advantageously by proteolytic enzymes. We can then mention the use of endoproteases and exopeptidases of plant origin (papain, bromelain, ficine) and microorganisms (Aspergillus, Rhizopus, Bacillus, etc.). The solution obtained constitutes the active extract. The active extract may be further purified by fractionation, in particular by a method of the chromatographic type or purified and concentrated by a dialysis method. Any of the more or less purified forms of the extract are then solubilized in water or in any mixture containing water, then sterilized by ultrafiltration.

The plant extract obtained according to the invention is analyzed qualitatively and quantitatively for its content of compounds of protein and peptide nature. Protein and peptide compounds are understood to mean protein fragments, peptides and free amino acids present in the mixture. The peptides, amino acids and protein fragments are determined according to conventional techniques, which are well known to those skilled in the art. Thus, according to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the active plant extract contains a quantity of protein and peptide compounds representing between 30 and 90% of the total weight of the dry matter, more particularly this amount is between 60 and 90% of the total weight of the dry matter. and 80% of the total weight of the dry matter.

The invention has the second object the use of an extract according to the invention for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb in order to repigment skin depigmented for example in the case of vitiligo, or in order to pigment hair or hair , especially in the treatment and prevention of canities.

The invention also relates to the use of a plant extract according to the invention for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition; the extract or the composition being intended to attenuate the pigmentary disorders associated with skin hypopigmentation, in particular vitiligo.

The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of a plant extract according to the invention; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the pigmentation of the hairs and / or the hair.

The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of a plant extract according to the invention; the extract or the composition being intended to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun.

The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, a plant extract according to the invention; the extract or the composition being intended, by increasing melanin synthesis, to protect the skin from sunlight.

According to another form of the invention, the use of the plant extract or of the composition containing it is intended to protect the skin from environmental stress.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the plant extract is first solubilized in one or more cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable solvents such as water, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, ethanol, propanol or isopropanol.

According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the plant extract is first solubilized in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical vector such as liposomes or adsorbed on organic powdery polymers, mineral supports such as talcs and bentonites, and more generally solubilized in, or attached to, any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.

To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, the plant extract is used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in a quantity representing from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.

Thus, the content of protein and peptide compounds in the compositions of the present invention will then be from 0.00003% to 18% and preferably from 0.015% to 9% of the total weight of the composition, for plant extracts containing between 30 and 90% of compounds of protein and peptide nature. Or, the content of protein and peptide compounds in the compositions of the present invention will be 0.0006% to

16% and preferably from 0.03% to 8% of the total weight of the composition, for plant extracts containing between 60 and 80% of compounds of protein and peptide nature.

In addition to the major advantage of the pigmentation of the skin in the sun protection, a pro-pigmenting compound according to the invention offers outlets in the self-tanning products and the products promoting tanning. For this, the invention relates to the use of plant extract for the manufacture of products for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin.

The invention also relates to the use of plant extract to improve the intensity and / or the homogeneity and / or the persistence of the coloration produced on the skin and / or the hair.

Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention will be in a form suitable for topical administration to the skin, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions must therefore contain a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, hair or hair. These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, O / W emulsions, W / O emulsions or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, the lips and / or the hair. These compositions comprise the excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives, perfumes.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and / or their quantity, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

The composition that may be used according to the invention may in particular consist of a composition for hair care, and in particular a shampoo, a conditioner, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a restructuring lotion for hair, a mask, etc. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in particular in treatments using an application that is followed or not followed by rinsing, or in the form of shampoo.

It can also be in the form of dye or mascara to be applied with a brush or a comb, in particular on eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.

It is of course obvious that the plant extracts according to the invention, mainly consisting of protein and peptide compounds, may be used as the only pro-pigmenting agent or in combination with at least one other active agent, in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a dermatological and / or pharmaceutical composition.

Advantageously, the compositions that can be used according to the invention also contain at least one other agent that promotes the pigmentation of the skin, hair and / or hair.

Such compounds are in particular tyrosinase substrates, such as tyrosine or L-DOPA, prostaglandins, or activating compounds of the cAMP pathway such as pro-opiomelanocortin derivatives, adenosine, or forkoline or its derivatives. It may also be mentioned plant extracts such as bitter orange (citrus aurantiur) or chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), described in particular in patents FR 2845285 and EP1014934.

Such compounds are also found in the family of exogenous dyes of the superficial layers of the epidemic, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, extracts of henna leaves, described in particular in patents EP 0742002 and FR2779958.

Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given by way of illustration and not limitation.

Example 1 Preparation of Plant Extracts The active agent can be obtained from an extract of grains of the species Pisum sativum L. (pea), but of course the extract can be prepared from plants of minus any of the many varieties and species belonging to the genus Pisum. The active agent can be obtained from a grain extract of the species Vhaseolus vulgaris (bean). Of course the extract can be prepared from plants of at least one of many varieties and species belonging to the genus Phaseolus.

The active agent can be obtained from an extract of beans (or grains) of the species Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa). Of course the extract may be prepared from plants of at least one of many varieties and species belonging to the genus Theobroma. The active agent can be obtained from a seed extract of the species Amaranthus hypochondriacus (amaranth). Of course, the extract can be prepared from plants of at least one of many varieties and species belonging to the genus Amaranthus. The active agent can be obtained from an extract of grains of the species Oryza sativa L. (rice). Of course the extract can be prepared from plants of at least one of the many varieties and species belonging to the genus Oryza.

In a first step, 1 kg of shelled grains are delipidated by the action of an organic solvent: hexane. The grains are then milled in a knife mill and then suspended in an aqueous alkaline solution (1/10 dilution). This mixture is stirred for a time long enough to allow the solubilization of the soluble fractions. The extraction temperature is variable (between 4 and 80 ° C); preferably the operation will be performed cold. After this extraction phase, the medium is clarified by centrifugation and then filtered through a plate filter. This filtrate which contains the soluble fractions of the plant is then subjected to precipitation of the proteins by varying the ionic strength in neutral or acidic medium, which allows to eliminate soluble carbohydrate components, lipids and nucleic acids. The supernatant is removed and the precipitate is then washed with a solvent such as, for example, ethanol or methanol and the solvent is evaporated by drying in vacuo. At this stage, about 50 grams of light yellow powder of crude protein extract are obtained containing: Protein: 75% - Carbohydrates: 20%

Fat: 5%

The protein-rich precipitate is dissolved in water or another solvent. The extraction can also be carried out in neutral or acidic medium. The crude protein extract is then subjected to a series of gentle and selective hydrolyses consisting of chemical and enzymatic hydrolyses. By way of example, mention may be made of hydrolysis in the presence of exopeptidases (papain, ficin).

The hydrolyzate is then purified and membrane-dialyzed to remove the high molecular weight compounds. A light-colored hydrolyzate titrant of 15 to 30 g / l of dry extract and containing a quantity of protein and peptide compounds representing approximately 70% of the total weight of the dry matter is then obtained. The hydrolyzed extract according to the invention is then diluted so that the protein concentration determined by the Lowry method is between 0.5 and 2 g / l. Example 2 Ex Vivo Study of the Effect of the Plant Extract According to Example 1 on the Synthesis of Melanin

The purpose of this ex vivo study is to demonstrate the increase in melanization provided by the extract according to Example 1. Protocol: Human skin biopsies 6 mm in diameter are maintained in culture ex vivo in the presence of a specific medium (DMEM lg / L, HAMF 12, FCS and antibiotics) on inserts deposited in 6-well plates. The biopsies are cultured for 48 hours and receive or not 2 applications per day of extract according to Example 1 at a concentration of 1%. The biopsies are then fixed in 9% formalin, NaCl (150 mM) for 10 hours and then included in the paraffin. Skin sections 3 μm thick are then made and the melanin is stained specifically by the Fontana technique.

Masson.

Results: Skin sections that did not receive the application of extract according to Example 1 have a low intensity coloration. On the contrary, the skin sections having received the extract applications according to Example 1 exhibit a markedly increased color intensity. In addition, melanin is located in the basal layer, but also transported in the supra-basal layers.

Conclusions: 48 hours of treatment led to a strong increase of melanin synthesis by melanocytes and to stimulate the whole process of distribution of melanin in the epidemic.

Example 3 Preparation of compositions

These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage of weight.

1-oil-in-water emulsion

Oily phase:

B Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) 5.00%

B Jojoba Oil 5.00%

"Vaseline Oil 5.00%

"Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00%

Aqueous phase :

B Glycerin 5.00% Allantoin 0.10%

Extract according to example 1 1.00%

Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide and C13-14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7) 0.30%

Conservative 0.50%

Perfume 0.50%

Water qs 100%

2- Carbopol Ultrez Gel 10 (2% sol) 25.00% Triethanolamine 0.50%

• Extract according to example 1 5.00%

B Conservative 0.20%

B EDTA (sequestering) 0.10%

B Perfume 0.50% B Water qs 100%

3- Lotion

B Mono Propylene Glycol 1.00%

B Allantoin 0.30% B Glycerin 1.00%

B Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 1.00%

B Extract according to example 1 0.5%

B Conservative 0.20%

B Perfume 0.50% B Water qs 100%

4-Oil-in-water self-tanning emulsion Oily phase:

B Glycerol mono / distearate mixture 2.00% B Stearyl alcohol 1.00%

B Palm oil stearic acid 1.50% B PoIy dimethylsiloxane 2.00%

B Poly dimethylsiloxane mixture alpha-omega 3.00% dihydroxyl / cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (14.7 / 85.3) • Lauroyl isopropyl sarconisate 15.00% Aqueous phase:

B Dihydroxyacetone 5.00% m Glycerin. 5.00% B Hexadecyl alcohol phosphate, potassium salt 1.00%

B Polyacrylic acid 0.30%

B Triethanolamine qsp pH: 7

B dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate 0.50%

B Extract according to Example 1 1.00% B Demineralized water qs 100.00%

5-Self-tanning water-in-oil emulsion

Oily phase:

B Polydimethyl 2.00% B Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane 3.00%

B Lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate 10.00%

B Isohexadecane 5.00%

B Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane 3.00%

Aqueous phase: B Dihydroxyacetone 2.00%

B Glycerin 5.00%

B Magnesium sulphate 0.70%

B Extract according to example 1 1.00%

B Demineralized water qs 100.00%

6- Self-tanning lotion

B Dihydroxyacetone 5.00%

B Freeze-dried extract άΕclipta prostata 0.40% m 96% ethanol 13.00% B Ethoxydiglycol 7.00%

B Eumulgin ^® L (PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol-Ether) 5.00%

B Parabens 0.25%

B Extract according to example 1 1.00% Demineralized water qs 100.00%

7- Self-tanning oil-in-water emulsion

B Water 66.80% B Ethoxydiglycol 5.00%

B Xanthan gum 0.30%

B Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose 0.30%

B Cetyl alcohol 2.00%

B Stearyl alcohol 2.00% m Octyl palmitate 2.00%

B Glucam P-20 distearate 2.00%

B Steareth-20 1.00%

B Dimethicone 1.00% m Polysorbate 60 1.00% B Dimethicone Copolyol / IPDI Copolymer 1.00%

B Glycerylstearate and PEG-100 Stearate 0.25% m Actiplex 335 Lipo OP 0.1%

"Tocopheryl acetate 0.1% a Water 10.975% ^β Dihydroxyacetone 2.00%

"Nipaguard MPA 0.60% ^β Panthenol, 50% aqueous 0.40%

"Sorbic acid 0.05%

B Sodium metabisulfite 0.025% a Extract according to Example 1 1.00%

Claims

1. Use of a plant extract obtained from plants selected from the genera Amaranthus or Oryza or the species Pisum sativum L. (pea), Phaseolus vulgaris (bean) or Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa), consisting mainly of protein and peptide nature, alone or in combination with at least one other active agent, in a cosmetic composition, the extract or the composition containing it being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb and improve the natural pigmentation of the skin. 2. Use of a plant extract obtained from plants selected from the genera Amaranthus or Oryza or the species Pisum sativum L. (pea), Phaseolus vulgaris (bean) or Theobroma cacao L. (cocoa), consisting mainly of protein and peptide compounds, alone or in combination with at least one other active agent, for the preparation of a dermatological and / or pharmaceutical composition, the extract or the composition containing it being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb and to attenuate the pigmentary disorders associated with hypopigmentation of the skin. 3. Use according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the plants belonging to the genus Amaranthus are of the species Amaranthus hypochondriacus (amaranth). 4. Use according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the plants belonging to the genus Oryza are of the species Oryza sativa L. (rice). 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plant extract contains a quantity of compounds of protein and peptide nature, representing between 30% and 90% of the total weight of the dry matter and more particularly between 60 % and 80% of the total weight of the dry matter. 6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in a form suitable for topical application comprising a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium. 7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract is used in an amount representing from 0.0001% to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing 0.05 % to 5% of the total weight of the composition. 8. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further contains at least one exogenous dye of the surface layers of the epidermis and / or at least one pro-pigmenting active agent different from said extract according to the claims. 1 to 5, selected from tyrosinase substrates or prostaglandins or activating compounds of the cAMP pathway or plant extracts pigment. 9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it is intended, by increasing the synthesis of melanin, to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun or to protect the skin radiation from the sun. 10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or composition containing it is intended to protect the skin from external aggressions, in particular UV rays. 11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it are intended for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin. 12. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it are intended to improve the intensity and / or the homogeneity and / or the persistence of the pigmentation of the skin and / or hair. 13. Use according to any one of the preceding claims characterized in that the extract or the composition containing it are intended to prevent or treat the whitening of the hair and / or hair.