WO2006062061A1 - Water-repellent woven/knit fabric with reversible air permeability and process for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

A water-repellent woven/knit fabric with reversible air permeability. It gives clothes which combine such air permeation performance that the air permeability reversibly changes rapidly with changes in humidity inside the clothes and such water-repellent performance that water penetration from outside the clothes is prevented. The woven/knit fabric comprises 30 wt.% or more swellable conjugate fibers comprising a side-by-side composite of a highly swelling ingredient with a lowly swelling ingredient and has a water repellent imparted thereto. This water-repellent woven/knit fabric with reversible air permeability may have a water repellency of grade 3 or higher and a change in air permeability, which is expressed by the equation: air permeability change (%) = [(air permeability in wet state (B) - initial air permeability (A))/initial air permeability (A)]×100, of 10% or higher. It is obtained by subjecting a woven/knit fabric comprising swellable conjugate fibers comprising a side-by-side composite of a highly swelling ingredient with a lowly swelling ingredient to a processing for water repellency impartation and then to crumpling for infiltrating the water repellent.

Description

 Specification

 Water repellent and breathable reversible woven or knitted fabric and method for producing the same

 Technical field

 [0001] The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having water repellent aeration reversibility and a method for producing the same.

 Background art

 [0002] Conventional capabilities Many functional materials have been developed, and in functional products, there are fiber materials, fabric structures such as woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, post-functional processing, etc. in order to express even higher functionality. These combinations are being actively promoted. In recent years, proposals for new functional materials have evolved to be more complex and higher-order, and in clothing, there have been many proposals for so-called dynamic functionality that changes functionality according to changes in the wearing environment. Yes. One example is the proposal of a heat storage material that seeks to improve heat retention according to the amount of light energy absorbed.

[0003] However, fashion trends and consumer needs in recent years have become extremely diversified and sophisticated, and in order to provide functional materials in line with consumer demand, further improvements in texture V and special features are required. A proposal for improved functionality is required! One of the specialized functions is the function of adjusting the temperature and humidity in clothes, and so-called breathing clothes are desired. This breathing garment reversibly changes the garment's breathability in response to dynamic changes in the garment's temperature, humidity, moisture, etc., and controls the temperature and humidity in the garment to make it always comfortable. To do.

 [0004] In response to such demands for breathable clothes, several breathable reversible knitted and knitted fabrics using fiber materials that reversibly change according to moisture and moisture have been proposed. With regard to chemical fibers and synthetic fibers, there has been proposed a woven or knitted fabric using acetate fibers whose air permeability changes using a material whose crimp rate changes according to humidity (see Patent Document 1). There has also been a proposal using a composite fiber of modified polyethylene terephthalate and nylon (see Patent Document 2).

[0005] In these breathable reversible woven and knitted fabrics, in order to respond quickly to changes in moisture and moisture, and to reversibly change the breathability, the conjugate fibers have high moisture and moisture absorption and desorption properties. Materials are used. These breathable reversible woven and knitted fabrics are also used during intense exercise. By sweating and absorbing moisture and sweat, the weaving stitches are expanded and breathability is increased, eliminating the stuffiness and stickiness in clothing and improving comfort.

 [0006] However, when these breathable reversible woven and knitted fabrics are used as clothes, the woven stitches expand even in a large amount of moisture with external force, such as when raining due to moisture or sweat from inside the clothes. However, there is a problem that a large amount of moisture can easily enter the clothes and further the air permeability is increased, so that the heat retention is lowered.

 Patent Document 1: JP 2002-180323 A

 Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-41462

 Disclosure of the invention

 Problems to be solved by the invention

[0007] An object of the present invention is to solve such problems in the prior art, and when used as a garment, it quickly responds to changes in humidity from the inside of the garment and reversibly changes the air permeability. It is an object of the present invention to provide a water-repellent breathable reversible woven or knitted fabric that has both breathable performance and water-repellent performance that prevents moisture from entering the clothes.

 Means for solving the problem

[0008] The first gist of the present invention is that it comprises 30 wt% or more of a swellable conjugate fiber in which a high water swellable component and a low water swellable component are combined side by side, and a water repellent is provided. A water-repellent breathable reversible woven fabric characterized in that the water repellency of the woven or knitted fabric is 3 or more and the air permeability change of the woven or knitted fabric represented by the following formula is 10% or more. It is in the knitting.

 [0009] Air permeability change (%) = [(Wet air permeability (B) —Initial air permeability (A)) Z Initial air permeability (A)] X 100

 The initial air permeability is 25 ° C, 65% RH for the woven or knitted fabric, and the moisture permeability is when the moisture content is balanced.The wet air permeability is determined by immersing the woven or knitted fabric in water for 30 minutes, followed by dehydration and air drying. Air permeability when the moisture content is 25 ° C and 50wt%.

[0010] Further, the second gist of the present invention is that a woven or knitted fabric comprising 30 wt% or more of a swellable conjugate fiber in which a high water swellable component and a low water swellable component are combined side by side is provided. Water repellent, characterized by being further water-repellent after grade 3 or higher It exists in the manufacturing method of ventilation reversible woven or knitted fabric.

 The invention's effect

 [0011] When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a garment, it has an effect of automatically adjusting the temperature and humidity inside the garment when sweating due to intense exercise or the like, and the garment is dried by water repellent treatment on the fiber surface. Furthermore, by preventing the intrusion of moisture by external forces such as during rain, it prevents the body temperature from being lowered due to excessive ventilation, resulting in a feeling of stuffiness and stickiness.

 BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

 [0012] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention needs to be configured to contain 30 wt% or more of swellable conjugate fiber in which a high water swellable component and a low water swellable component are combined side by side. When the swellable conjugate fiber is less than 30 wt%, the change in the weaving stitch due to the swellable conjugate fiber due to humidity and moisture becomes small, and a sufficient change in air permeability cannot be obtained. The highly water swellable component constituting the swellable conjugate fiber of the present invention is a highly swellable component having a water swell degree of preferably 30 to 200%, more preferably 40 to 100%. The component is a low-water-swellable or non-water-swellable component having a water swelling degree of 20% or less, preferably 10% or less. It is a swellable composite fiber consisting of a combination of powerful swellable ingredients, which excels in moisture absorption, water absorption and quick drying, reversible changes in fiber shape during moisture absorption, water absorption and drying, and durability Even better. The water swelling degree of each component of the conjugate fiber is a numerical value when measured with each single component fiber.

 [0013] The composite ratio of the high water swellable component and the low water swellable component in the swellable conjugate fiber is preferably 20:80 to 80:20 by weight, more preferably 40:60. More preferably, it is in the range of ~ 75: 25. If the low water swellable component is less than 20 wt% or more than 80 wt%, the shrinkage does not occur sufficiently and reversible fiber shape change is insufficient. Further, in order to cause a difference in shrinkage between the components, the difference in the degree of water swelling is preferably 20% or more, more preferably 30% or more.

[0014] The high water swellable component in the swellable conjugate fiber repeats the phenomenon of stretching when swollen and contracting when not swollen, but since it is bonded to the low water swellable component side by side, it absorbs moisture and absorbs water. The crimp of the fiber disappears due to the extension of the high water swellable component side, and the crimp is generated due to the shrinkage of the high swellable component during drying. Occasionally, the air permeability of the woven or knitted fabric is reversibly changed by reversibly repeating the disappearance of the crimp form and the expression of the crimp form.

 [0015] As the swellable conjugate fiber in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, specifically, a cellulose-based composite in which two components, one of which is highly water-swellable cellulose and the other is cellulose acetate, are combined side by side. Swellable conjugate fibers are preferred. In cellulosic swellable conjugate fibers, a cell mouth with an acetylation degree of 0% is a high water swellable component, and cellulose acetate with an acetylation degree of 56.2% to 62.5% is a low water swellable component. More preferred to be.

 [0016] This cellulose-based swellable conjugate fiber is, for example, a precursor fiber in which a cellulose acetate having an average substitution degree of less than 2.60 and a cellulose acetate having an average substitution degree of 2.76 or more are combined in a side-by-side manner with an alkali. It can be obtained by deacetylation treatment. The deacetylation treatment with alkali allows the cellulose acetate of each substitution degree to be deacetylated. Low-substituted cellulose acetate is more easily deacetylated, so only low-substituted cellulose acetate is Perform deacetylation under the conditions for deacetylation. By this deacetylation treatment, the low-substitution cellulose acetate component of the precursor fiber becomes cellulose with an acetic acid content of 0% or very close to an acetic acid content of 0%, and there is a large difference in water swellability with other components. Thus, a reversible change in the shape of the fiber due to humidity and moisture can be obtained. The alkali treatment for deacetylation is preferably carried out after forming the woven or knitted fabric in terms of handling, whether it is in the yarn state or in the woven or knitted state.

 [0017] Further, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, in addition to the swellable conjugate fiber, other constituent fiber materials may be included in a range not exceeding 70 wt%. When other constituent fiber materials are included, any composite yarn means may be used, but it is preferably included as a composite yarn with a swellable conjugate fiber. As other constituent fiber materials, thermoplastic fibers having excellent chemical resistance such as alkali are preferable, and the surface strength of the heat setting property is also thermoplastic to reinforce the strength of the fiber and to enhance the shape stability of the woven or knitted fabric. Preferably it is a fiber

[0018] The thermoplastic fiber is not particularly limited, but may be a crimped yarn form in which polyester fiber, polyamide fiber, or the like is preferable. The cross-sectional shape of the thermoplastic fiber is also special In consideration of the texture, gloss, etc. of the resulting woven or knitted fabric, the cross-sectional shape such as a triangular shape, a circular shape, a flat shape, and a Y shape is appropriately selected. Furthermore, the single fiber fineness, fineness unevenness, dyeing characteristics and the like of the thermoplastic fiber are not particularly limited.

 [0019] Further, the thermoplastic fiber is composed of two types of polyesters such as two types of polyesters having different melt viscosities and compositions, two types of polymers such as polyester and polyacrylonitrile, polyester and polyamide, preferably 80:20 to 20:80, preferably More preferably, it is a conjugate fiber bonded to the side-by-side of 60:40 to 40:60. That is, since the conjugate fiber has crimp characteristics, when the swellable conjugate fiber stretches due to moisture absorption or contracts due to moisture release, the effect of hindering fiber movement is high.

 [0020] As a means for combining thermoplastic fibers, methods such as twisting, covering, air fluid processing, false twisting, and the like can be used. Among these, air fluid force is preferable, and a method is mentioned. In other words, if the degree of freedom of the swellable conjugate fiber is large, the air permeability effect in the woven or knitted fabric is also large, so that the yarn form in which the thermoplastic fiber is elongated and floated with respect to the swellable conjugate fiber by air fluid processing. It is preferable that

 [0021] Further, when the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a garment, a water repellent is imparted to the woven or knitted fabric in order to obtain moisture permeability change while preventing moisture from entering the woven or knitted fabric from the outside. The water repellency must be 3 or higher. If the water repellency is less than 3rd grade, the weave stitches expand rapidly due to moisture from the outside, moisture penetrates into the interior, and the excessive ventilation effect reduces the heat retention. Occurs. Examples of the water repellent applied to the woven or knitted fabric include a silicon water repellent and a fluorine water repellent.

 [0022] Further, in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the air permeability change amount of the woven or knitted fabric represented by the following formula needs to be 10% or more.

 Air permeability change (%) = [(Wet air permeability (B) —Initial air permeability (A)) Z Initial air permeability (A)] X 100

 When the change in air permeability is less than 10%, the appearance of the swellable conjugate fiber due to humidity is reduced, and the change in fiber shape due to disappearance is reduced. Comfort is lost due to the sticky feeling.

[0023] The initial air permeability of the present invention is measured when the woven or knitted fabric is at 25 ° C and 65% RH when the moisture content is balanced. The air permeability when wet is measured when the woven or knitted fabric is immersed in water for 30 minutes, dehydrated and air dried, and the moisture content of the woven or knitted fabric is measured at 25 ° C and 50 wt%. Say degree. Air permeability when wet is an air permeability that assumes practical use such as during sweaty exercise in clothing, and the measurement condition is the amount of moisture that has little influence on measurement accuracy due to excess moisture while the clothes are wet. As a condition, the moisture content of the woven or knitted fabric was set to 25 ° C. and 50 wt%.

 [0024] The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be produced, for example, as follows.

 That is, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric comprising 30% by weight or more of a swellable conjugate fiber in which a high water swellable component and a low water swellable component are combined in a side-by-side manner. It is manufactured by further squeezing after the water repellent finish. Specifically, a woven or knitted fabric composed of 30 wt% or more of precursor fibers in which two types of cellulose acetates having different degrees of substitution are compounded side by side is alkali-treated, and the precursor fibers are deacetylated. It is produced by modifying into a swellable conjugate fiber and subjecting the woven or knitted fabric to a water repellency of grade 3 or higher followed by further squeezing.

 [0025] Further, the precursor fiber is preferably a fiber in which cellulose acetate having an average degree of substitution of less than 2.60 and cellulose acetate having an average degree of substitution of 2.76 or more are compounded side by side, and is treated with a deacetylated soot treatment with an alkali. In this case, the conditions for causing selective deacetylation, which is preferably treated with alkali under the same conditions that only the low-substituted cell mouth acetate of the precursor fiber is selectively deacetylated, are used. According to the average substitution degree of cellulose acetate, the ratio of precursor fibers, etc., alkali treatment conditions such as concentration, temperature, time and the like at which low substitution cellulose cellulose is deacetylated are determined and set. The low-substituted cellulose acetate can be easily deacetylated by alkali treatment of the precursor fiber under the conditions of strong low-substituted cellulose acetate, and the acetylation degree is 0% or the acetic acid degree is 0%. It becomes very close to cellulose and exhibits high water swellability. Highly substituted cellulose acetate has little or no deacetylated soot, high acetylation, and low or non-water swellability. .

[0026] The water-repellent processing can be performed using a known water-repellent agent such as a silicon-based water-repellent agent or a fluorine-based water-repellent agent, and a generally employed method such as a padding method or a spray method. Weaving knitted fabrics with a water repellency of 3rd grade or higher will prevent excessive moisture from entering. It is necessary. If the water repellency is grade 3 or higher, the processing conditions in the water repellent process include the type of water repellent, amount applied to the woven / knitted fabric, density of the woven / knitted fabric, texture, processing temperature, time, etc. You can choose arbitrarily.

[0027] Further, in the present invention, it is necessary to squeeze-in after water-repellent processing. In the water repellent processing, the water repellent penetrates and adheres to the gaps between the single fibers and the interlaced points of the woven or knitted fabric, and the movement between the fibers, that is, the degree of freedom of the fibers is hindered. Thus, the constrained state between the fibers is released, and the reversible change in air permeability due to the change in the fiber shape of the swellable conjugate fiber due to humidity is easily performed. For example, a tumbler or a cam fit is used for the kneading process. Depending on the density and structure of the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable to measure at least when the woven or knitted fabric is at 25 ° C and 65% RH when the moisture content is balanced. Select the conditions such as temperature, time, and impact load so that the initial air permeability is 120 cm ³ / cm ² / sec.

 Example

 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to examples. Each characteristic value was measured by the following method.

 [0029] (1) Water repellency

 Measured according to JIS L1092—General test method (spray test).

 [0030] (2) Air permeability

In an environment variable room at 20 ° C and 65% RH, the measurement was performed using a permeability tester FX3300 manufactured by TEXTEST in accordance with JIS L1018—General test method (Fragile test). The initial air permeability (A) in the present invention is the air permeability (cm ³ / cm ² / sec) when the woven or knitted fabric is measured at a moisture content equilibrium at 25 ° C. and 65% RH. (B) is the air permeability (cm ³ / cm ²⁾ measured when the woven or knitted fabric is immersed in water for 30 minutes, dehydrated and air-dried, and the moisture content of the woven or knitted fabric is 25 ° C and 50 wt%. / sec) The re-drying air permeability (A1) is used to confirm reversibility when the knitted or knitted fabric is wetted and then dried again, up to a moisture content equilibrium of 25 ° C and 65% RH. Calculated by air permeability (cm ³ / cm ² / sec) when air-dried 7 pieces.

[0031] (3) Degree of water swelling The degree of water swelling of each component in the swellable conjugate fiber was measured using a single component fiber as follows. In this example, the measurement was carried out using fibers that were composed of individual components of cellulose acetates having different degrees of substitution and were subjected to alkali treatment under the same conditions as shown in the examples and deacetylated.

 [0032] The cross section of the fiber was photographed with a microscope to obtain the cross sectional area (a). Further, water was dropped on the preparation to swell the fiber, and the cross sectional area (b) after 15 minutes was obtained. The following formula force was also used to calculate the degree of water swelling based on the cross-sectional area ratio.

 Degree of water swelling (%) = ((b -a) / a) X 100

 [0033] (4) Degree of substitution

 The degree of acetylation was measured according to the JIS L1013A method, and the degree of substitution of cellulose with cellulose was determined from the following formula.

 Vinegar concentration = [(60 X substitution degree) Z (158 +43 X substitution degree + 1 X (3—substitution degree))] X 100

[0034] (5) stuffiness, stickiness

 A run shirt was created from the obtained woven or knitted fabric and a wearing test was conducted. The feeling of stuffiness and stickiness after running for 1 hour was sensorially evaluated by the wearer.

 [0035] (Example 1)

 Acetate conjugate fiber (84dtexZ30 filament) obtained by composite spinning of cellulose diacetate with an average degree of substitution of 2.41 and cellulose triacetate with an average degree of substitution of 2.91 in a side-by-side configuration with a weight ratio of 50:50 And polyester conjugate fiber (Lasina 33dtex / 12 filament manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.) obtained by composite spinning of two types of polyesters with different heat shrinkage side-by-side, twist number 1800TZm, 80 ° C, 40 minutes A heat set with steam was performed under the conditions described above to create a twisted yarn.

[0036] Using this twisted yarn, a woven fabric was woven in a warp double weave structure with a warp density of 45 Z4 pieces and a weft density of 115 Z2. 54 cm. The resulting fabric was subjected to an alkali treatment at a temperature of 60 ° C for 15 minutes in a treatment bath of 1% by weight sodium hydroxide aqueous solution and a bath ratio of 1: 100, followed by a dyeing temperature of 130 ° C and a dyeing time. It dye | stained using the disperse dye on the conditions for 30 minutes. The original acetate conjugate fiber in the dyed fabric obtained was a cellulose triacetate component, a highly water-swellable component having a water swell degree of 60%, cellulose triacetate, which was significantly deacetylated by alkali treatment. The acetate component was a low water swellable component with a water swell of 9%, which was hardly deacetylated, and these two components were side-by-side swellable conjugate fibers composed of a weight ratio of 45:55.

[0037] The obtained woven fabric was impregnated with a fluorinated water repellent by a padding method using a fluorinated water repellent (a water repellant made of a perfluoroalkyl acrylate copolymer), and wrung with a mandar. Thereafter, it was heat treated at 170 ° C. for 3 minutes and subjected to water repellent treatment under the condition that 5 wt% of the fluorine-based water repellent was adhered. After that, further squeezing with a tumbler was applied to remove the restriction between the fibers. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the resulting fabric. The unit of air permeability in Table 1 is cm ³ Z cm / sec.

 [0038] (Example 2)

 In the yarn configuration used in Example 1, a twisted yarn of 1200 TZm with a twist of 1200 TZm was prepared, and a twisted yarn in which the acetate conjugate fiber in Example 1 was twisted 1200 TZm was prepared. Using this twisted twisted yarn, 1 was used for warp and weft. : A woven fabric was made with a warp double weave structure of 1 and a warp density of 48 Z4 and a weft density of 130 / 2.54 cm. Thereafter, the fabric was subjected to alkali treatment, dyeing, water repellent treatment and squeezing treatment in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the resulting fabric.

 [0039] (Comparative Example 1)

 In Example 1, a woven fabric was obtained without water-repellent processing by the padding method and without squeezing with a tumbler. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the resulting fabric.

[0040] (Comparative Example 2)

 In Example 2, a woven fabric was obtained after the water repellent process by the spray method instead of the padding method, without the squeezing process by the tumbler. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the resulting fabric.

[Example 3]

Acetate conjugate fiber (84dtexZ20 filament) obtained by composite spinning of cellulose diacetate with an average degree of substitution of 41 and cellulose triacetate with an average degree of substitution of 2.91 in a side-by-side configuration with a weight ratio of 50:50 A polyester fiber (33dtexZ 12 filament) was used and air fluid processing was performed to create a mixed yarn. Use this blended yarn In the reversible structure, the surface layer was made of polyester fiber (110 dtexZ24 filament), the middle layer was tacked with polyester fiber (56 dtexZ 24 filament), and the back layer was knitted with this mixed yarn. Thereafter, this knitted fabric was subjected to alkali treatment, dyeing, water repellent treatment and kneading in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the obtained knitted fabric.

 [0042] (Comparative Example 3)

 In Example 3, a woven fabric was obtained without performing a squeezing process using a tumbler after a water repellent process using a spray method instead of the padding method. Table 1 shows the evaluation results of the resulting fabric.

 [0043] [Table 1]

産業上の利用可能性

Industrial applicability

 [0044] When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is used as a garment, it has an effect of automatically adjusting the temperature and humidity inside the garment when sweating due to intense exercise or the like, and the garment is dried by water repellent treatment on the fiber surface. Since it is a clothing material that does not feel stuffy or sticky because it prevents body temperature from being reduced due to excessive ventilation by preventing moisture from entering due to external forces such as rain It can be suitably used for outdoor wear that also has high density woven and knitted fabric.

Claims

The scope of the claims  [1] A woven or knitted fabric composed of 30% by weight or more of a swellable conjugate fiber in which a high water swellable component and a low water swellable component are combined side by side, and having a water repellent added thereto. A water-repellent breathable reversible woven or knitted fabric characterized in that the water repellency of the woven or knitted fabric represented by the following formula is 10% or more.  Air permeability change (%) = [(Wet air permeability (B) —Initial air permeability (A)) Z Initial air permeability (A)] X 100  The initial air permeability is 25 ° C, 65% RH for the woven or knitted fabric, and the moisture permeability is when the moisture content is balanced.The wet air permeability is determined by immersing the woven or knitted fabric in water for 30 minutes, followed by dehydration and air drying. Moisture content is 25 ° C The air permeability at 50wt%. [2] The water-repellent breathable reversible woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the swellable conjugate fiber strength is a fiber in which two components, one of which is cellulose and the other of which is cellulose acetate, are combined side by side. [3] A woven or knitted fabric comprising 30% by weight or more of a swellable conjugate fiber in which a high water swellable component and a low water swellable or non-water swellable component are combined on a side-by-side basis has a water repellency of 3 or more. A method for producing a water-repellent and air-reversible woven or knitted fabric, which is further subjected to squeezing after water-repellent processing.  [4] The swellable conjugate fiber is desorbed with alkali under the condition that the precursor fiber in which two types of cellulose acetates with different substitution degrees are combined side-by-side is de-acetylated with alkali. 4. The method for producing a water-repellent and breathable reversible woven or knitted fabric according to claim 3, obtained by treating with acetylene koji.