WO2006040433A1 - Composition for topical application, containing a cell homogenate - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a composition for topical application, containing a cell homogenate of at least one plant, disintegrated under high pressure. The disintegrated cells used according to the invention have the advantage of having been easily prepared, and of providing to the compositions containing them particularly interesting rheological and cosmetic properties. The invention also concerns the method for preparing the disintegrated cells and the homogenate obtained by said method.

Description

 Composition for topical application containing a crushed cell

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application, in particular a cosmetic or dermatological application, containing a groyd of cells of at least one plant, which are disintegrated under high pressure (HHP), and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic field or dermatological, and especially for the hydration of the skin. The subject of the invention is also the process for preparing the broken-down crushed cell and its use as a moisturizing agent and / or as a thickening agent.

Plants have long been considered as potential sources of usable assets in many areas. This is how plants and their extracts are traditionally used in cosmetics and pharmacy. A multitude of biological activities have been found in plant extracts as described for example in US-A-6,406,720 (use of Spondias sp. Extract, Maprounea sp as anti-free radical and anti-aging agent), and US-A -6,238,674 (use of an extract of Cordia dichotoma for the inhibition of elastase of the skin). Other patents claim not only the use of plant extracts but also the use of so-called dedifferentiated plant cells cultured in vitro, such as for example US-A-6,350,594 which relates to the production of polymers by cells of the Aizoaceae family cultured in a liquid medium. These cells, which have the advantage of being cultivable under standard conditions, also have the advantages of firstly producing identical or new compounds with respect to the plant from which they are derived, and secondly of not being dependent on climatic and seasonal conditions of traditional crops. However, the size and structure of cell aggregates are a real handicap to their use in cosmetics. Indeed, cells separated from their culture medium have a rough appearance that is not compatible in the state with cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications. The use of these cells in the state poses another problem: the assets they synthesize are essentially intracellular. The use of these assets therefore requires treatments to destroy the plant cell wall and extract this or these assets.

There remains therefore the need for plant cells cultured in vitro, obtained by a process eliminating the operations of separation, extraction and purification, these cells being thus directly usable in cosmetic or dermatological products.

The Applicant has found, surprisingly, that cells of plant origin which have been disintegrated under high pressure give a crushed material which can be used directly in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In addition, the ground material obtained has the advantage of having very good moisturizing properties, and unexpected thickening properties. Thus, the subject of the invention is a composition for topical application containing at least one crushed cell of at least one plant, disintegrated under high pressure. By "topical application" is meant here an external application on keratinous substances, which are in particular the skin, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the hair and / or the mucous membranes. A composition for topical application must have a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium that is compatible with the skin, the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyes, the nails and / or the hair. The composition may especially be a cosmetic or dermatological composition. As used herein, the term "disintegrated" refers to dedifferentiated cells that have been milled under high pressure and burst under the effect of the pressure exerted. The term "dedifferentiated cell" means a cell that has undergone a profound change, this modification having reduced it to the juvenile state, and having made it capable of moving towards the formation of any organ (see FIG. book "In vitro culture and its horticultural applications" by R. Auge et al., Ed. JB Baillière). Moreover, the ground material is the product obtained after the grinding process of the cells under high pressure. This ground material may be the grinding product as such or the product obtained after filtration. Furthermore, the term "high pressure" in the present application refers to a pressure generally ranging from 2.10 ⁷ Pa to 14.10 Pa (200 to 1400 bar), preferably from 4 to 12.5 × 10 ⁷ Pa, (400 to 1250 bar). and more particularly 6 to 12.5.10 ⁷ Pa (600 to 1250 bar). The grinding is preferably performed cold, that is to say at a temperature biologically compatible with all biological activities, that is to say preferably at + 4 ° C.

The physiologically acceptable medium may be more particularly an aqueous medium, comprising water and may optionally also contain a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from monohydric lower alcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, sorbitol; and mixtures thereof, this aqueous medium possibly also containing fatty substances. It can also be an anhydrous medium, that is to say a dehydrated medium and for example obtained by lyophilization or atomization.

When the physiologically acceptable medium is an aqueous medium, it has a skin-compatible pH, preferably ranging from 3 to 8 and more preferably from 4 to 7.

The Applicant has also found, surprisingly, that the ground material obtained by grinding the disrupted and / or broken cells into controllable fragments under high pressure, conferred on the compositions containing it rheological properties and particularly advantageous cosmetic properties, in particular thickening properties. topical compositions, and hydration properties when applied to the skin. Thus the crushed disaggregated cells can thicken a composition in addition to thickeners conventionally used or even without necessarily requiring the addition of thickeners conventionally used. Moreover, this crushed cell has good hydrating properties of the skin, and therefore the compositions containing them, in particular the cosmetic compositions, are particularly suitable for the hydration of the skin and for the treatment of dry skin.

Also, the invention also relates to the use of a crushed cell of at least one plant, disintegrated under high pressure, as a thickening agent in a composition for topical application.

The subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, and in particular the skin, consisting in applying to the keratin material the composition for topical application as defined above.

The invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, for moisturizing the skin.

The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, for the treatment of dry skin.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a crushed cell of at least one plant, disintegrated under high pressure, as a moisturizing agent.

The crushed disaggregated cells used in the composition of the invention also has the advantage of being able to be incorporated directly into the composition of the invention without going through subsequent extraction and / or purification steps.

The disrupted cells used according to the invention are obtained from dedifferentiated plant cells. These are fresh culture cells which are harvested and separated from their culture medium, for example by filtration or spinning, and are then milled under high pressure. Instead of cells separated from their culture medium, it is possible to use the crude culture including the "spent" culture medium, that is to say the culture medium at the end of culture, where the cells have drawn all their nutrients and dropped molecules of catabolism, and thus a nutrient-free environment consumed by the cells during their growth but also enriched secretions of these same cells.

As indicated above, the pressure used is generally from 2.10 ⁷ Pa to 14.10 ⁷ Pa (200 to 1400 bar), preferably from 4 to 12.5 × 10 ⁷ Pa, (400 to 1250 bar) and more particularly from 6 to 12 , 5.10 ⁷ Pa (600 to 1250 bars). To obtain such pressures, it is possible to use either a homogenizer under high pressure, chosen for example from those of the Microfluidizer M 110-s type, RANNIE®, GAULIN® or SOAVIE®, or a micronization device, for example of the URSCHEL® type, either the French press for example of the CARVER® type, or an extrusion apparatus, for example an extruder mixer comprising in an outer casing provided at the outlet of an extrusion die, one (or two) driven shaft (s). (s) in rotation so that the peripheral structure of a shaft cooperates with the outer shell and, where appropriate, with the peripheral structure of the other shaft, to ensure the grinding of the cells and their displacement in the envelope to the extrusion die. As an extrusion apparatus, mention may be made of those of brands CLEXTRAL® and WERNER & PFLEIDERER®.

Microfluidizer M 110-s, a high-pressure homogenizer of the Microfluidics brand, is preferably used.

The subject of the present invention is also a method for preparing a crushed disaggregated cell meal, comprising harvesting fresh culture cells, separating them from their culture medium, and grinding them under high pressure, that is to say to say under a pressure ranging from 2.10 ⁷ Pa to 14.10 ⁷ Pa. It also relates to the ground material obtained by this process.

The size of the cells (or cellular debris) obtained after passing under high pressure varies depending on the pressure and the number of passages. Excess water can be removed by a filtration step. The properties of the composition containing the extract can be modulated according to the number of passages of the extract under high pressure, the applied pressure and the percentage of residual hydration. According to the invention, the plant used to obtain the cells of the composition of the invention may come from any plant or from all known plant species. Examples that may be mentioned include plants selected from plants of the family Iridaceae and in particular iris (iris palida), plants of the labiate family and in particular rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and the rosaceae family and especially the rosé (Rosa canina). Plant material obtained by in vitro culture from iris or rosé is preferably used.

It is understood that the in vitro culture system used to obtain the culture cells is a known system, chosen from among the various systems which can be found in any of the many books or publications available on the subject, ( see for example "Principles of Fermentation Technology" Second Edition 1995, PF Stanbury, A. Whitaker and SJ Hall, Butterworth Heinemann Edition).

We can use a grind obtained from cells of a single plant or a mixture of several plants, or use a mixture of ground vegetables each obtained from one or more plants. The amount of ground material (s) of disintegrated cells in the composition according to the invention can vary to a large extent according to the plant of origin and according to the desired purpose. Preferably, this amount (of active material) ranges from 0.1 to 100% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 50% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the ground material is used as a thickening agent, it must be in sufficient quantity to achieve the desired thickening effect.

In addition to the disintegrated cells, the claimed composition may contain any compound commonly used in the cosmetic compositions or dermatological, and it can be in any galenic form normally used in the fields concerned.

When the composition comprises an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic medium, it is possible to add a fatty phase (or oily) in this medium, so that the compositions of the invention are softer and more nourishing. This oily phase may for example represent from 0.5 to 60% of the total weight of the composition. Thus, the compositions according to the invention can be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (HIE) or water-in-oil emulsions ( W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / H), aqueous gels, dehydrated anhydrous products, or dispersions of an oily phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or lipid vesicles of ionic type (liposomes) and / or nonionic. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. They may optionally be in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:

hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R ¹ COOR ² and R ¹ OR ² in which R ¹ represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate or 2-ethyl palmitate; hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;

partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

- their mixtures. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). When the emulsion is multiple, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary emulsion and an emulsifier in the external phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced. As emulsifiers that can be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the names DC 5225 C and DC 3225 C by the company Dow Corning, and as alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning, Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 ^R by Goldschmidt and the mixture of Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / Cetyl dimethicone copolyol / Hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09 ^R by the company Goldschmidt. One or more co-emulsifiers may also be added, which advantageously may be selected from the group consisting of branched-chain fatty acid esters and polyol, and especially branched-chain fatty acid esters and glycerol and / or sorbitan and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by the company Goldschmidt, the sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the ICI company, sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof. As emulsifiers that can be used for the preparation of O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers such as esters of fatty acids and oxyalkylenated polyols (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), and for example polyethylene glycol stearates such as stearate. PEG-100, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl mono-stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate (100 EO) sold under the name SIMULSOL 165 by the company SEPPIC; esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and of sorbitan comprising, for example, from 20 to 100 OE, and for example those marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by the company Ubiqema; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof, for example the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema. Co-emulsifiers such as, for example, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, may be added to these emulsifiers. 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleic alcohol. It is also possible to prepare emulsions without emulsifying surfactants or containing less than 0.5% of the total weight of the composition, by using suitable compounds, for example polymers having emulsifying properties such as the polymers sold under the trade names CARBOPOL 1342 and PEMULEN by the company Noveon; or polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) or as the emulsion polymer marketed under the trademark Sepigel 305 by the company Seppic (INCI name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / laureth-7); ionic or nonionic polymer particles, more particularly anionic polymer particles such as in particular isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid polymers, and in particular phthalate / sulfoisophthalate / glycol copolymers (for example diethylene glycol / phthalate / isophthalate / 1,4-cyclohexane dimethanol (INCI name: Diglycol / CHDM / I sophthalates / SIP Copolymer) sold under the names Eastman AQ polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical, emulsions can also be prepared. without emulsifiers, stabilized with silicone particles or metal oxide particles such as TiO 2 or others.

In known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives (for example phenoxyethanol and parabens), antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the intended applications, the composition of the invention may contain one or more UV filters (or sunscreens) which may be selected from chemical filters and physical filters or a mixture of such filters. By way of illustration and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters): anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 available). at Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamido-triazone (Uvasorb HEB available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (Uvinul T150 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available from Ciba); drometzole trisiloxane, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.

The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Although the disintegrated cell grind used according to the invention has thickening properties, it may be desirable to additionally add one or more gelling agents usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Thus, depending on the gelation of the composition that it is desired to obtain, it is possible to incorporate in the composition one or more gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) by the company Goodrich ; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; the polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as ρoly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellanes, alginates, celluloses such as muicrocrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and their mixtures. The amount of gelling agent depends on the desired purpose. The amount of gelling agent may range, for example, from 0.01 to 5% and preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention and their amounts, in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not not, or not substantially, impaired by the intended addition.

The compositions according to the invention can be used in particular as a care product and / or as a makeup product for the skin.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The compounds of the compositions according to the invention are, as the case may be, cited in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).

I. Example of a Protocol for Obtaining the Crushed Aggregate of Disaggregated Cells

After culture in a liquid medium, the Iris palida cells are separated from the culture medium by dewatering on a web of porosity of 1 to 5 μm. The fresh cells are resuspended in osmosis water at a concentration of 200 g / l. This suspension is then treated at high pressure by passing through Microfluidics Microfluidizer M 110-s high-pressure homogenizer, equipped with rupture cells, one of which has a 75 μm passage orifice, and the other an orifice. passing 200 μm. The pressure used is 1250 bars, the flow rate is of the order of 30 liters per hour, the product is cooled after treatment by passage on a heat exchanger thermostatically at ²⁰ C. The product thus treated is then wrung on canvas. porosity between 1 and 5 microns at a speed of 1800 revolutions per minute. The cellular debris constituting the disintegrated cells of the composition according to the invention are retained by the filter cloth and constitute the ground material. Evaluation of the hydration potential: A test was implemented to evaluate the hydration potential of the cell broth, obtained above. This is a test performed in Raman microspectrometry, whose method is described in the reference: J. Invest. Dermatol. 116, 434-442 2001, a method for measuring the water content in the stratum corneum.

The test was carried out under standard conditions on stratum corneum in a chamber regulated in temperature and humidity (T = 30 ⁰ C, relative humidity = 5%).

The dedifferentiated (raw or HHP treated) plant cell meal was deposited on stratum corneum pellets, and the water content was measured by raman effect. At the end of the monitoring of the hydration of the Stratum corneum pellets, it was found that the vegetable seed mill treated under high pressure according to the invention had a hydrating power approximately three times greater than that of the plant cells not treated under high pressure.

There Examples of compositions

Example 11.1: O / W emulsion

Phase A: oily phase

Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5%

Modified starch (Dry FIo) 2% Propyl paraben 0.04%

Phase B: aqueous phase

Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

Glycerin 5% Methyl Paraben 0.3%

Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (Hostacerin AMPS) 1, 5%

Water qs 100%

Phase C Crushed disaggregated cells obtained according to Example 1 10%

Procedure: the emulsion is prepared in a conventional manner from phases A and B, phase A being introduced into phase B with stirring, then the emulsion is cooled to a temperature of approximately 40 ^° C. at 45 ° C) and introduced phase C.

A composition having good hydration properties is obtained.

Example II.2: O / W Emulsion Phase A: oily phase

Hydrogenated polyisobutene 3.5%

Modified starch (Dry FIo) 2%

Propyl paraben 0.04% Phase B: aqueous phase

Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

Glycerin 3%

Methyl Paraben 0.3% Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (Hostacerin AMPS) 1, 5%

Water qs 100%

Phase C

Bromat of disrupted cells obtained according to Example 1 10%

The procedure is the same as in Example 11.1.

A composition having good hydration properties is obtained.

Example 11.3:

Phase A: oily phase

Glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165) 2%

Dimyristyl tartrate / cetearyl alcohol / C12-15 pareth-7 / PPG-25 laureth-25 (Cosmacol PSE) 1, 5%

Cyclohexasiloxane 5%

Stearyl alcohol 1%

Phase B: aqueous phase Pentasodium ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphate 0.05%

Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide (Hostacerin AMPS) 0.4% xanthan gum 0.2%

Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

Water qs 100%

Phase C

Glycerin 3%

Bromat of disrupted cells obtained according to Example 1 10% Water 10%

Procedure: Phase B is heated to about 75 ° C, then Hostacerin AMPS is added and stirred until a homogeneous gel is obtained. Phase A is heated to about 75 ° C., and the emulsion is made by incorporating phase A into phase B. It is cooled and at a temperature of 40-45 ^° C., phase C is incorporated, and the phase is maintained. stirring until complete cooling.

A composition having good moisturizing properties is obtained.

Claims

1. Composition for topical application containing at least one crushed cell of at least one plant, disintegrated under high pressure. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains water. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the crushed disaggregated cell is obtained from dedifferentiated plant cells milled under high pressure. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the high pressure is from 2.10 ⁷ Pa to 14.10 ⁷ Pa, preferably from 4 to 12.5.10 ⁷ Pa. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plant is selected from the plants of the Iridaceae family, the plants of the family Labiee and plants of the rosaceae family. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of crushed disaggregated cell mass ranges from 0.1 to 100% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises an oily phase. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it constitutes a cosmetic or dermatological composition. 9. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, for moisturizing the skin. 10. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, for the treatment of dry skin. 11. A process for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, comprising applying to the keratinous material a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 to 7. 12. Cosmetic use of a crushed cell of at least one plant, disintegrated under high pressure, as a moisturizing agent. 13. Use of a crushed cell of at least one plant, disintegrated under high pressure, as a thickening agent in a composition for topical application. 14. A method for preparing a crushed disaggregated cells, comprising harvesting fresh culture cells, separating them from their culture medium, and crushing them at a pressure ranging from 2.10 ⁷ Pa to 14.10 ⁷ Pa. 15. Ground material obtained according to the process of claim 14.