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WO2005018588A2 - Laque capillaire compacte - Google Patents

Laque capillaire compacte Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2005018588A2
WO2005018588A2 PCT/EP2004/009260 EP2004009260W WO2005018588A2 WO 2005018588 A2 WO2005018588 A2 WO 2005018588A2 EP 2004009260 W EP2004009260 W EP 2004009260W WO 2005018588 A2 WO2005018588 A2 WO 2005018588A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
copolymer
acid
hair
polymers
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2004/009260
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
WO2005018588A3 (fr
Inventor
Winfried Emmerling
Uwe Bergemann
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA, Hans Schwarzkopf and Henkel GmbH filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority to PCT/EP2004/009260 priority Critical patent/WO2005018588A2/fr
Publication of WO2005018588A2 publication Critical patent/WO2005018588A2/fr
Publication of WO2005018588A3 publication Critical patent/WO2005018588A3/fr
Priority to PCT/EP2005/012153 priority patent/WO2006018328A2/fr
Priority to EP05807607A priority patent/EP1778168A2/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a preparation for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair in the form of an aerosol spray, and the use of this preparation for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair.
  • Keratin fibers especially human hair, are undergoing a variety of treatments nowadays.
  • the treatments that serve to permanently or temporarily shape the hair play an important role.
  • Temporary shapes that are supposed to provide a good hold without impairing the healthy appearance of the hair, such as, for example, its shine, can be achieved, for example, by hair sprays, hair waxes, blow dryer waves, etc.
  • Hair sprays usually contain synthetic polymers as a shaping component.
  • Preparations which contain a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pump mechanism.
  • BESTATIGUNGSKOPIE Hair treatment agents that give the hair more volume and hold are known.
  • the cosmetic polymers usually used for this purpose show good strengthening properties in aqueous, aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic solutions, which deform and strengthen the hair more or less well after use and which. can also give the hair more volume. Often, however, this effect does not last long and the desired volume effect is sometimes lost when you comb your hair.
  • Many of the setting or bulking polymers often have undesirable side effects, which are noticeable in the fact that the treated hair has too rough a grip, too high a load or insufficient elasticity, or too many visible residues form on the hair. Inadequate washability after using these hair treatment products can also be a problem.
  • the firming active ingredients which are typically polymeric compounds' can be used in usual hair cleansing or incorporated -konditionierstoff. In many cases, however, it is advantageous to use them in the form of special agents such as hair fixers, hair gels, hair waxes or hair sprays.
  • Setting hair treatment agents are used several times a day.
  • the corresponding hair treatment agent is often always at hand by the consumer.
  • the large volume of the usual aerosol cans is a major disadvantage.
  • the aerosol cans could be reduced in volume, for example to cans of 100 ml or 50 ml, the content would then only be sufficient for a few applications. This is not acceptable to the consumer and also increases the amount of waste. This could be remedied by highly concentrated, at least twice to five times as highly concentrated hair spray formulations based on the content of setting polymers.
  • the US Pat. No. 5,068,099 describes setting hair treatment agents which, when sprayed, only have an average droplet size of approximately 60 ⁇ m.
  • the spray rate is significantly increased compared to conventional hair sprays.
  • the water content in these formulations is limited to a maximum of 10% by weight.
  • the problem of sticking the valves remains.
  • the excessive product release also leads to sticking to the hair. No steady consolidation is achieved.
  • the low water content on the other hand means a high content of volatile organic compounds. In modern recipes that are common today, however, the water content is up to 45% by weight.
  • a setting hair treatment composition which is composed of: (A) at least 3.0% by weight of at least> one film-forming and / or setting polymer, (B) 10.0 to 80% by weight. % of a protic solvent and (C) 20 to 90% by weight of a blowing agent, characterized in that the mean droplet size of this composition when sprayed is less than 40 ⁇ m.
  • the film-forming and / or setting polymer (A) in the agent according to the invention is preferably in an amount from 3.0 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably from 3.0 to 30% by weight, very particularly preferably in an amount from 3.0 to Contain 20 percent by weight.
  • films-forming and / or solid polymers can also be contained in the agent according to the invention.
  • These film-forming and / or setting polymers can be both permanent and temporary cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric.
  • the present invention also includes the knowledge that when at least two film-forming and / or setting polymers are used, these can of course have different charges.
  • an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer is used together with an amphoteric and / or non-ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • the use of at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or setting polymers is also preferred.
  • a special embodiment can again have at least one contain further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.
  • Film formation is one of the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers.
  • Film-forming polymers are understood to mean those polymers which, when dried, leave a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails.
  • Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products such as, for example, face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes.
  • Polymers which have sufficient solubility in alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures to be present in the agent according to the invention in completely dissolved form are particularly preferred.
  • the film-forming polymers can be synthetic or natural in origin.
  • film-forming polymers are furthermore understood to mean those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are able to deposit a transparent polymer film on the hair.
  • the film-forming polymers can be charged anionically, amphoterically, non-ionically, permanently cationically or temporarily cationically.
  • Suitable synthetic, film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, Alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers preferably being C1 to C7 alkyl groups, particularly preferably C1 to C3 alkyl groups.
  • Homopolymers of vinyl caprolactam, vinyl pyrrolidone or N-vinyl formamide are suitable, for example.
  • Other suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are, for example, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate.
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinylpyrrolidone ⁇ ethyl acetate copolymers are particularly preferred.
  • Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred here because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is to say water. This reduces the sagging of the hair strands and thus ensures a long-lasting hair style build-up and maintenance.
  • the so-called curl retention test is often used as a test method for this.
  • These polymeric substances can continue to be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is to say they have several effects which are desired in terms of application technology, numerous polymers can be found in several groups which are classified according to the mode of action, as also in the CTFA manual. Because of the importance of the setting polymers, they should be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI names. This list of the polymers which are particularly preferably to be used according to the invention therefore naturally also includes the cationic polymers.
  • Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are acrylamides / ammonium acrylate copolymers, acrylamides / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer,
  • Polyurethane-10 Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl • Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate,.
  • VP / Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate Copolymer VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer, VP ⁇ / A Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate.
  • amphoteric polymers can also be used as polymers.
  • the term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, and also zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO in the molecule Contain " - or -SO 3 " groups, and summarize those polymers which contain - COOH or SO 3 H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.
  • amphopolymer suitable is that available under the name Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Amphomer ® acrylic resin which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid and its simple esters.
  • Amphoteric polymers which are preferably used are those polymers which essentially consist of one another
  • the composition according to the invention can be influenced in a targeted manner, in particular with regard to the setting, softening and antistatic effect, if anionic polymers are also formulated.
  • the anionic polymers are, inter alia, anionic polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups.
  • anionic monomers from which such polymers can consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups can be present in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • Anionic polymers which contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole or co-monomer have proven to be very particularly effective, the sulfonic acid group being able to be present in whole or in part as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt ,
  • Anionic polymers which are also suitable according to the invention include a .:
  • Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers such as are commercially available for example under the names Resyn ® (National Starch), Luviset ® (BASF) and Gafset ® (GAF).
  • Vinylpyrrolidon ⁇ / inylacrylate copolymers available for example under the trademark Luviflex ® (BASF).
  • a preferred polymer is that available under the name Luviflex VBM-35 ® (BASF) vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate terpolymers.
  • Acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers which are sold, for example, under the name Ultrahold ® strong (BASF).
  • polyurethanes consist of at least two different types of monomers, a compound (V1) with at least 2 active hydrogen atoms per molecule and - a di- or polyisocyanate (V2).
  • the compounds (V1) can be, for example, diols, triols, diamines, triamines, polyetherols and polyesterols.
  • the compounds with more than 2 active hydrogen atoms are usually used only in small amounts in combination with a large excess of compounds with 2 active hydrogen atoms.
  • Examples of compounds (V1) are ethylene glycol, 1,2- and 1,3-propylene glycol, butylene glycols, di-, tri-, tetra- and poly-ethylene and propylene glycols, copolymers of lower alkylene oxides such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, Ethylenediamine, propylenediamine, 1, 4-diaminobutane,
  • Hexamethylenediamine and ⁇ , ⁇ -diamines based on long-chain alkanes or polyalkylene oxides are included in the alkylene oxides.
  • Polyurethanes in which the compounds (V1) are diols, triols and polyetherols can be preferred according to the invention.
  • polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols with molecular weights between 200 and 3000, in particular between 1600 and 2500, have proven to be particularly suitable in individual cases.
  • Polyesterols are usually obtained by modifying the compound (V1) with dicarboxylic acids such as phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and adipic acid.
  • the compounds (V2) used are predominantly hexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-methylene di (phenyl isocyanate) and in particular isophorone diisocyanate.
  • polyurethanes used according to the invention can also contain building blocks such as, for example, diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • building blocks such as, for example, diamines as chain extenders and hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Dialkylolcarboxylic acids such as dimethylolpropionic acid are particularly suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • the other building blocks there is no fundamental restriction as to whether the building blocks are nonionic, anionic or cationic.
  • the polyurethane is not dissolved in the system but is dispersed in a stable manner. Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous for the preparation of the agents according to the invention if the polyurethanes are not mixed directly with the other components, but instead are introduced in the form of aqueous dispersions. Such dispersions usually have a solids content of approximately 20-50%, in particular approximately 35-45%, and are also commercially available.
  • the agents according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers.
  • Suitable nonionic polymers include: vinyl pyrrolidone / Vinylester copolymers, as are marketed, for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone ⁇ inylacetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
  • siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and non-volatile siloxanes are suitable, non-volatile siloxanes being understood to mean those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. at normal pressure.
  • Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
  • the preparations used contain several, in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or each contain an ionic and an amphoteric and / or non-ionic polymer.
  • polymers which in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handboo.k” (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702 ) are mentioned as polymers in one of the chapters on polymers such as "film formers” or “hair fixatives” and are commercially available. Reference is expressly made to this document and the sections cited from it.
  • the agent according to the invention is preferably made up in an aqueous * alcoholic or in an aqueous alcoholic medium with preferably at least 10% by weight of water.
  • the lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as ethanol and isopropanol, can be included as alcohols.
  • the agent according to the invention can be present in a pH range from 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred.
  • Organic solvents or a mixture of solvents with a boiling point below 400 ° C. can be present as additional co-solvents in an amount of 0.1 to 15 percent by weight, preferably 1 to 10 percent by weight.
  • Unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane are particularly suitable as additional co-solvents.
  • particularly preferred water-soluble solvents are glycerol, ethylene glycol and propylene glycol in an amount of up to 30 percent by weight.
  • the third component of the preparations according to the invention is the blowing agent.
  • Propellant gases must be used to use the compositions according to the invention as aerosol sprays.
  • the preferred according to the invention Propellants are selected from hydrocarbons with 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, fluorocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons and mixtures of these substances.
  • Very particularly preferred propellant gases are propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether and the mixtures of these aforementioned propellant gases.
  • Most preferred propellant gases according to the invention are the mixtures of dimethyl ether with hydrocarbons.
  • Preferred among the group of hydrocarbons as propellants are n-butane and propane.
  • the blowing agent is advantageously selected so that it can simultaneously serve as a solvent for other ingredients such as oil and wax components, the fatty substances (D).
  • the blowing agent can then serve as a solvent for these latter components if at least 0.5% by weight, based on the blowing agent, of the latter is soluble in it at 20 ° C.
  • the preparations according to the invention contain the hydrocarbons mentioned or mixtures of the hydrocarbons mentioned with dimethyl ether as the sole blowing agent.
  • the invention also expressly includes the use of blowing agents of the chlorofluorocarbon type, but especially the fluorocarbons.
  • the propellant gases are present in amounts of 5-98% by weight, preferably 10-98% by weight and particularly preferably 20-98% by weight, very particularly preferably from 40 to 98% by weight, in each case based on the total aerosol composition ,
  • compositions according to the invention can be packaged in commercially available aerosol cans.
  • the cans can be made of tinplate or aluminum.
  • the cans can be coated on the inside in order to keep the risk of corrosion as low as possible. If the compositions according to the invention are used as a non-aerosol spray application, there is of course no propellant gas. However, the spray heads must always be selected according to the required spray rates.
  • the cans are equipped with a suitable spray head. Depending on the spray head, discharge rates based on fully filled cans can range from 0.1 g / s to 5.0 g / s.
  • the spray rate is determined in such a way that an aerosol can filled with propellant gas and the appropriate composition and sealed with the relevant valve is first weighed at room temperature (about 23 ° C.). The can and its contents are shaken vigorously by hand 10 times so that the contents mix well. Then the valve of the vertical can is actuated for 10 s. Then weigh again. The process is carried out 5 times in a row and the statistical mean is formed from the results. The difference between the two weighings is the spray rate per 10 s. From this, the spray rate per second can be determined by simple division.
  • the spray mechanism is actuated 10 times.
  • the spray rate is to be understood as the average amount applied per burst (pump burst).
  • Spray rates of 0.1 to 0.5 g / s are preferred.
  • Spray rates of 0.1 to 0.4 g / s are particularly preferred.
  • the spray pattern is decisively influenced by the valve and its nature. If, for example, the film former in a hairspray formulation is increased up to five times compared to a conventional formulation, in addition to the increased viscosity of the formulation to be observed and avoided, the spray rate already discussed is also essential for the formulation to be observed. In addition, however, the spray pattern, that is to say the opening cone of the valve, and the droplet size must also be taken into account. If the opening cone has an opening angle that is too large, then the product is applied to a hair surface that is too small at a usual distance of the spray can from the user's head of about 10 to 40 cm. This leads to a change in the effectiveness of the composition.
  • the opening cone is too large, so that an excessively large hair surface is treated with the composition. It has now been shown that the opening cone should ideally be between 25 ° and 65 °. An angle of 30 ° to 60 ° is preferred. Opening cones between 35 ° and 50 are very particularly preferred
  • the influence of the droplet size is as follows: If the droplets are too large, the formulation is not evenly distributed on the hair, so that too many product quantities occur in many places. On the other hand, product quantities are too small. Numerous tests have now shown that the average droplet size should ideally be less than 50 ⁇ m. Droplet sizes smaller than 45 ⁇ m are preferred. Droplet sizes smaller than 40 ⁇ m are very particularly preferred.
  • the droplet size is determined using a laser diffraction meter of the type Masterizer, Series 2600 Droplet and Particle Size Analyzer from Malvern. For this purpose, the sample is sprayed at a defined distance through the light beam from the laser and the particle size distribution is determined using laser diffraction.
  • the viscosity of the formulation to be sprayed can also have an influence, depending on the concentration of the film-forming polymers. At the same time, however, valves are also known, with the help of which even gels can be sprayed.
  • it can be preferred according to the invention if the viscosities of the Recipes less than 5000 mPas measured according to Brookfield with spindle 3 at 20 rpm and 25 ° C.
  • the viscosities of the recipes are measured before the addition of propellant. It can be particularly preferred if the viscosities are less than 2500 mPas and very particularly preferably less than 1000 mPas.
  • the problem of the valves sticking can also be positively influenced by appropriate processing, material selection and / or pretreatment of the valves. It is essential that all parts of the valve that come into contact with the composition have the smoothest possible surface. The smoother the surface, the less the composition can adhere to it through adhesion. This counteracts sticking of the nozzle.
  • the achievement of particularly smooth surfaces is known to the person skilled in the art, for example by executing the surface in the form of nanoparticles in order to achieve a lotus flower effect or polishing the surfaces, for example electropolishing.
  • the hair When applying the composition according to the invention, the hair should be shaped into a specific hairstyle. To do this, it may be necessary to positively influence the hair structure and condition. For example, it can be advantageous if the combing resistances are low during the build-up of the hairstyle. Furthermore, the hairstyle should show a certain shine or colored shimmering effects. The hair is said to give a vital impression when styled. For this it is necessary to incorporate care substances into the composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention can be increased, for example:
  • oils examples include sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach seed oil and the liquid components of coconut oil.
  • Other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the agents according to the invention is usually 0.1-50% by weight, based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.1-30% by weight are preferred according to the invention.
  • UV filters (I) can give further advantages with regard to the structure of the hair and thus advantages in terms of combability, gloss or volume.
  • the hair is protected from the effects of UV light with the help of the UV filter.
  • the structure and physical properties of the UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions. Rather, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable, the absorption maximum of which lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
  • UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-amino-benzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethyl cyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), ' 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone
  • 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4- methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.
  • Preferred UV filters are those whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the water-insoluble compound has, in the context of the teaching according to the invention, the higher activity than those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups.
  • water-insoluble are UV filters which do not dissolve in water at 20 ° C. by more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight.
  • these compounds should be at least 0.1, in particular at least 1% by weight soluble in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature).
  • those UV filters are preferred which have a cationic group *, in particular a quaternary ammonium group.
  • UV filters have the general structure U - Q.
  • the structural part U stands for a group that absorbs UV rays. This
  • a group can be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above, which can be used in the cosmetics sector, in which a group in which
  • a hydrogen atom of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary amino function.
  • Structural parts U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.
  • the structural parts U can in principle be selected so that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can be both in the UVA (315-400 nm) - and in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC ( ⁇ 280 nm) range.
  • UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred.
  • the structural part U is preferably chosen so that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter is on Absorption maximum is above 15,000, in particular above 20,000.
  • the structural part Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group as the cationic group.
  • this quaternary ammonium group can be directly connected to the structural part U, so that the structural part U is one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is preferably a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a connection between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
  • the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 ) ⁇ -N + R 1 R 2 R 3 X " , in which x represents an integer from 1 to 4, R 1 and R 2 independently of one another represent C ⁇ - 4 -alkyl groups, R 3 stands for one or a benzyl group and X " for a physiologically acceptable anion.
  • x preferably stands for the number 3, R 1 and R 2 each for a methyl group and R 3 either for a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain with 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • Physiologically compatible anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions, and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions
  • organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
  • UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially obtainable compounds Zimtklareamidopropyl- trimethylammonium chloride (lncroquat ® UV-283) and dodecyl tosylate (Escalol ® HP 610).
  • the teaching according to the invention also includes the use of a combination of several UV filters.
  • the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.
  • the UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.
  • the effect of the combination according to the invention can be further increased by a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J).
  • Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the active ingredient in combination with derivatives of 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid.
  • Preferred are the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries one to three Q to C 4 alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen.
  • the sodium salt is very particularly preferred.
  • the amounts used in the agents according to the invention are 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total agent, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight.
  • vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) it has also proven to be advantageous to add vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) to the compositions according to the invention. It may be preferred to select only those vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives that are only soluble in alcohol and / or in alcohol / water mixtures.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H are preferred according to the invention.
  • the group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ).
  • the ß-carotene is that Provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol as well as its esters such as palmitate and acetate come into consideration as vitamin A components.
  • the compositions used in the invention include vitamin A component preferably used in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.
  • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin)
  • nicotinic acid and nicotinamide are often listed under this name. According to the invention, preference is given to nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • panthenol and / or pantolactone is preferably used.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829.
  • the compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin B 6 pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total agent. Use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as acetate, nicotinate, phosphate and succinate, are preferably present in the agents used according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent ,
  • Vitamin F usually means essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linoleic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexa- hydrothienol [3,4-] imidazole-4-valeric acid is referred to as vitamin H, but for which the trivial name biotin has now become established.
  • Biotin is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the iviinei vuami ⁇ e used according to the invention contain provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H.
  • Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • extracts are usually produced by extracting the entire plant. In individual cases, however, it may also be preferred to produce the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.
  • the extracts from green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, valerian, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit are particularly preferred.
  • the extracts from green tea, valerian, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention.
  • Alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used as extractants for the production of the plant extracts mentioned.
  • alcohols lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, are preferred, both as the sole extracting agent and as a mixture with water.
  • Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.
  • the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. Unless they are used in diluted form they usually contain about 2 to 80% by weight of active substance and the extractant or mixture of extractants used in their extraction as a solvent.
  • mixtures of several, in particular two, different plant extracts in the agents according to the invention may be preferred.
  • penetration aids and / or swelling agents are present. These auxiliaries ensure better penetration of active ingredients into the keratin fiber or help swell the keratin fiber.
  • urea and urea derivatives include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates Diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1st , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.
  • the consumer may associate the composition according to the invention with a stimulant.
  • this association in particular in children, means that oral intake or swallowing of the composition cannot be completely ruled out.
  • the compositions according to the invention therefore contain a bitter substance in order to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion.
  • Bitter substances are preferred according to the invention which are soluble in water at 20 ° C. to at least 5 g / l.
  • the ionogenic bitter substances have proven to be superior to the nonionic, ionogenic bitter substances, preferably consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s) are therefore preferred for the preparations according to the invention.
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are particularly suitable as bitter substances.
  • One such compound is commercially available for example under the trademark Bitrex ® and Indige-stin ® available benzyldiethyl ((2,6 Xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known as Denatonium Benzoate.
  • the bitter substance is present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1% by weight, based on the shaped body. Quantities of 0.001 to 0.05% by weight are particularly preferred.
  • hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils,
  • Solvents and intermediates such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin and diethylene glycol,
  • paraffin oils such as paraffin oils, vegetable oils, e.g. B. sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil as well
  • active ingredients such as allantoin and bisabolol, - cholesterol,
  • Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate,
  • Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air,
  • Sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols are suitable.
  • the pH of these preparations can in principle be between 2 and 11. It is preferably between 3 and 10, values from 5 to 8 being particularly preferred. Virtually any acid or base that can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used to adjust this pH.
  • Edible acids are those acids that are ingested as part of normal food intake and have positive effects on the human organism. Edible acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention, the use of citric acid and lactic acid is particularly preferred.
  • Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, triisopropanolamine, and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine. These bases are also used to neutralize or partially neutralize the fixing and / or fixing polymers, if this is necessary.
  • a very particularly preferred form of application is an aerosol and / or non-aerosol spray application.
  • the agent according to the invention Sprayed using a suitable mechanically operated spraying device.
  • Mechanical spray devices are to be understood as devices which enable the spraying of a liquid without using a propellant.
  • a suitable mechanical spray device can be, for example, a spray pump or an elastic container provided with a spray valve, in which the cosmetic agent according to the invention is filled under pressure, the elastic container expanding and from which the agent continuously as a result of the contraction of the elastic container when the spray valve is opened is used.
  • any corresponding aerosol valve can be used which enables the spray rate according to the invention and / or the corresponding droplet sizes. It can be advantageous here if the valve opening has a diameter of at most 0.4 mm. An opening of 0.35 mm is preferred. Valve openings of at most 0.3 mm are very particularly preferred.
  • Corresponding aerosol valves are described, for example, in the patents US Pat. No. 4,152,416, US Pat. No. 3,083,917, US Pat. No. 3,083,918, US Pat. No. 3,444,258. Such valves are commercially available, for example, from Seaquist Perfect Dispensing GmbH or Coster Technologie Speciali s.p.a. can be obtained.
  • the Ariane M valve from Seaquist is used as the valve. It can be particularly preferred if this valve is used together with a special throttling. The throttling is either in the star of the valve or in the spray head. This is shown graphically in drawing I.
  • Another particularly preferred embodiment uses a valve with a side bore as a valve, such as is offered by the Coster company under the type designation K 125 SL 184/3/6.
  • the aerosol container can be made of aluminum monobloc cans, but also of plastics such as PET or glass.
  • Any spray pump which enables the spray rate according to the invention can be used to design the invention as a non-aerosol.
  • Corresponding systems are commercially available, for example, under the name Calmar Mark II from Calmar Inc.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne des concentrés de laque capillaire, caractérisés par l'utilisation d'agents filmogènes déterminés et de valves spéciales.
PCT/EP2004/009260 2004-08-18 2004-08-18 Laque capillaire compacte Ceased WO2005018588A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/EP2004/009260 WO2005018588A2 (fr) 2004-08-18 2004-08-18 Laque capillaire compacte
PCT/EP2005/012153 WO2006018328A2 (fr) 2004-08-18 2005-08-10 Laque capillaire concentree
EP05807607A EP1778168A2 (fr) 2004-08-18 2005-08-10 Laque capillaire concentree

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/EP2004/009260 WO2005018588A2 (fr) 2004-08-18 2004-08-18 Laque capillaire compacte

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2005018588A2 true WO2005018588A2 (fr) 2005-03-03
WO2005018588A3 WO2005018588A3 (fr) 2005-07-14

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1778168A2 (fr) * 2004-08-18 2007-05-02 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Laque capillaire concentree
DE102009031432A1 (de) 2009-07-01 2011-01-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kompaktes Haarspray
US10005772B2 (en) 2006-12-22 2018-06-26 3M Innovative Properties Company Immune response modifier compositions and methods

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1964794A1 (de) * 1969-12-24 1971-07-01 Therachemie Chem Therapeut Verbesserung von Sprays
US3893597A (en) * 1973-08-20 1975-07-08 Ronald F Ewald Low delivery rate valve
CA1077001A (fr) * 1976-10-21 1980-05-06 Winfried J. Werding Appareil servant a l'evacuation de produits gazeux, liquides ou pateux, et procede de fabrication
JPS61161164A (ja) * 1984-12-29 1986-07-21 Toyo Aerosol Kogyo Kk エアゾ−ル製品
US5068099A (en) * 1990-01-16 1991-11-26 S. C. Johnson & Son, Inc. Hair spray package with low volatile organic compound emission
FR2684874B1 (fr) * 1991-12-13 1994-07-01 Oreal Systeme aerosol pour laque capillaire.
US6158617A (en) * 1996-10-30 2000-12-12 The Procter & Gamble Company Concentrated reduced dosage spray pump delivery system
FR2758983B1 (fr) * 1997-01-31 1999-04-23 Oreal Dispositif aerosol a base de compositions de materiaux fixants permettant un coiffage sans soudures entre les cheveux
DE10004769C2 (de) * 2000-02-03 2002-02-21 Wella Ag Kompakthaarsprayprodukt bestehend aus Haarspraykonzentrat, druckfestem ud diffusionsdichtem Behälter und einer Feinsprühpumpe mit Vordruckaufbau

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1778168A2 (fr) * 2004-08-18 2007-05-02 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Laque capillaire concentree
US10005772B2 (en) 2006-12-22 2018-06-26 3M Innovative Properties Company Immune response modifier compositions and methods
DE102009031432A1 (de) 2009-07-01 2011-01-05 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Kompaktes Haarspray
WO2011000711A2 (fr) 2009-07-01 2011-01-06 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Spray capillaire compact
WO2011000711A3 (fr) * 2009-07-01 2011-07-14 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Spray capillaire compact

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