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WO2005067881A1 - Visualisation de produits de protection solaire sur la peau - Google Patents

Visualisation de produits de protection solaire sur la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2005067881A1
WO2005067881A1 PCT/EP2004/053157 EP2004053157W WO2005067881A1 WO 2005067881 A1 WO2005067881 A1 WO 2005067881A1 EP 2004053157 W EP2004053157 W EP 2004053157W WO 2005067881 A1 WO2005067881 A1 WO 2005067881A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
derivatives
cosmetic
rswk
preparations
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2004/053157
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Beate Uhlmann
Tobias Mann
Volker Wendel
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
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Beiersdorf AG
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Filing date
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Publication of WO2005067881A1 publication Critical patent/WO2005067881A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/434—Luminescent, Fluorescent; Optical brighteners; Photosensitizers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K3/00—Use of inorganic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K3/01—Use of inorganic substances as compounding ingredients characterized by their specific function
    • C08K3/014—Stabilisers against oxidation, heat, light or ozone
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
    • C08K5/0008—Organic ingredients according to more than one of the "one dot" groups of C08K5/01 - C08K5/59
    • C08K5/0041—Optical brightening agents, organic pigments
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
    • C08K5/01—Hydrocarbons
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
    • C08K5/36—Sulfur-, selenium-, or tellurium-containing compounds
    • C08K5/41—Compounds containing sulfur bound to oxygen
    • C08K5/42—Sulfonic acids; Derivatives thereof

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological (light protection) formulations containing styrylbenzoide derivatives and the use of styrylbenzoide derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin, in particular with the aid of activation by light.
  • ⁇ 3rd degree cell damage occur on deep cell damage, the body reacts with fever, the epidermis are shed over a large area.
  • the formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength.
  • the erythema range of the UV-B is between 280 nm and 320 nm.
  • UV-A rays About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. While the UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and day or latitude) ), the UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day, regardless of the time of year, time of day or geographic factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.
  • UV-A radiation has only a negligible biological effect and that UV-B rays are accordingly responsible for most of the light damage to human skin.
  • UV-B radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photo-dynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin.
  • the damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.
  • the sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of the effect of light.
  • particularly strongly exposed areas of the skin (face, neck, hands) with increasing age show an (acute) change in the skin caused by radiation due to the high total dose associated with it.
  • the most noticeable chronic light damage to the skin is actinic or senile elastosis. Macroscopically, it manifests itself in thickening and coarsening of the skin, wrinkling, loss of elasticity, the appearance of yellowish shimmering deposits and irregular pigment accumulations.
  • the epidermis becomes thin in places and shows warty growths, the dermis loses its elasticity and tension, the water retention capacity is reduced.
  • Chronic light damage that occurs as a late consequence also includes malignant melanoma and, in the last stage, actinic keratosis.
  • the benefit of a sunscreen preparation is to extend the amount of time that a consumer can stay in the sun without causing light damage.
  • the filter effect should be adapted in particular for the UV-B range to the individual sensitivity of the consumer and the intensity of solar radiation.
  • the weakening of the intensity of the incident light and thus the effectiveness of a sun protection formulation depend, among other things, on the layer thickness of the applied filter substance. With increasing layer thickness, the effectiveness of a sunscreen also increases. Particularly in the case of low-viscosity preparations such as oils or alcoholic solutions, it is therefore necessary to also increase the viscosity of the formulation and thus the achievable layer thickness on the skin from a certain limit concentration of filter substance. In addition, it is only possible to a limited extent to increase the sun protection factor by increasing the concentration of the UV filter substance.
  • the layer thickness achieved with a special base is a very important criterion in light protection.
  • the sun protection factor increases in the order of oil ⁇ alcoholic solution ⁇ liquid emulsion ⁇ cream ⁇ paste.
  • Another important parameter in this connection is the adhesiveness or water resistance of the formulations on the skin.
  • Most sunscreens are used near the water or during sports activities (sweating).
  • a waterproof sunscreen can protect the user from sunburn not only during bathing but also after bathing, provided it is not washed off too much.
  • a high level of protection of the preparations is of particular importance, especially for children's and baby products, since children are particularly susceptible to sunburn due to the low light swell (thickening of the horny layer) and the reduced level of self-protection and also often play for hours on or in the water.
  • the object of the present invention was accordingly to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and to find ways to visualize cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin and thus to facilitate the application of a uniform film to the skin.
  • RSWK-02017 DE-100 34 332-A1 describes the use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin. Furthermore, DE-100 35 512-A1 describes the use of dyes for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin. However, this prior art could not point the way to the present invention.
  • both EP-941 051-B1 and EP 1 136 059-A2 describe colored sun protection emulsions which are distinguished in that the color essentially fades when the sun protection emulsion dries after it has been distributed on the skin and / or rubbed into the skin.
  • the effect achieved here also falls short of the hoped-for effect.
  • the present invention furthermore relates to the use of styryl benzoide derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin.
  • RSWK-02017 and / or permanent skin staining occurs. Furthermore, based on the visual impression that the formulations leave on the skin, both for the user himself and for third parties, such as. B. parents, easily recognizable which areas of the skin are already covered with a protective layer and where (or again) creaming is required.
  • the cosmetic is usually visualized directly with the eye, for example by the user viewing the area of skin in question using a contrast enhancer.
  • the substances according to the invention absorb visible and / or UV light and then emit light whose wavelength is longer than that of the absorbed light. So they show an effective fluorescence in a longer-wave range.
  • the difference between incident and emitted light can be, for example, 2 to 100 nm.
  • contrast enhancer for the purposes of the present invention, for. B. thin colored plastic films or colored glasses are used, whereby the color of the contrast enhancer is selected according to the color of the fluorescence: Since blue foils are essentially transparent to blue radiation, they are suitable as contrast enhancers for the visualization of substances that emit blue light etc ,
  • those formulations which have a continuous decrease in fluorescence after application are particularly advantageous, for example because the fluorescent substances are photolabile and are decomposed into non-fluorescent substances by the influence of radiation.
  • the styrylbenzene derivatives can be substituted both symmetrically and asymmetrically.
  • RSWK-02017 Derivatives of this compound which are particularly advantageous according to the invention are: 1, 4-bis (2-methylstyryl) benzene or p-bis (o-methylstyryl) benzene (Bis-MSB, available under the trade name Lambdachrome® number LC 4250 from Fa. Lamda Physics)
  • the substances according to the invention can be present either individually or in a mixture.
  • the total amount of the substances according to the invention is advantageously chosen in each case from the range from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.
  • the substances according to the invention are in encapsulated form. Permanent encapsulations are advantageous, i. H. Capsules from which the substances according to the invention are not released into the cosmetic preparation or the skin. It goes without saying that the encapsulation for light must be continuous so that both the absorbed and the emitted radiation can penetrate through the capsule.
  • An advantageous encapsulation consists of (chemically inert) plastics.
  • Encapsulations which are obtainable by sol-gel microtechnology are also advantageous.
  • the substances according to the invention are enclosed in an inert silica membrane, ultimately encapsulated in glass beads.
  • encapsulated substances according to the invention can also be used in the form of aqueous dispersions.
  • Encapsulated substances according to the invention are particularly suitable for the production of particularly sensitive (sensitive) products.
  • styrylbenzoide derivatives which provide for an extension of the light path and / or with which additional scattering and / or reflection centers are introduced into the formulation which have the effects of styrylbenzoide derivatives support for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin.
  • Cosmetic formulations containing TiO 2 and / or other pigments can be excited particularly easily by light. This means that significantly lower concentrations of flavin and its derivatives are sufficient to achieve the desired effect.
  • the preparations can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases and, for example, in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O ⁇ / V or O / W / O emulsions .
  • Such formulations may preferably also be microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called mousse), solid emulsions (i.e. emulsions which are stabilized by solids, e.g. Pickering emulsions), sprayable emulsions or hydrodispersions.
  • the preparations can advantageously also be oil-free and / or aqueous / alcoholic solutions. It is preferred according to the invention if the formulations are waterproof.
  • RSWK-02017 phase is a (W / O, O / W, micro) emulsion.
  • the emulsion is perceived as one phase, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that emulsions per se are formed from two or more phases homogenized with one another.
  • the “emulsion phase” is stable over the long term, so that segregation or phase separation within the emulsion does not occur over a longer period (months, years).
  • the macroscopically visible phases or layers can advantageously be emulsified for a short time - for example by shaking - to form a homogeneous emulsion which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather separates again into two or more layers layered over one another over a period of minutes, hours or days ,
  • at least one of the macroscopically visible phases is a microemulsion and at least one other of the macroscopically visible phases is an oil phase.
  • Sprayable O / W emulsions in particular O W micro-nuances, are particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • the droplet diameters of the usual "simple”, that is, ultra-low emulsions are in the range from approximately 1 ⁇ m to approximately 50 ⁇ m.
  • Such "acroemulsions” are colored in a milky white and opaque color without any additional coloring additives.
  • Finer acroemulsions whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 0.5 ⁇ to approx. 1 ⁇ m are, again without coloring additives, bluish-white and opaque.
  • Such” macroe ions "usually have a high viscosity
  • the droplet diameter of ikroemuisicnen in the context of the present invention is in the range from about 50 to about 500 nm.
  • Such ivlikroemulsions are bluish white in color to translucent and mostly of low viscosity.
  • the viscosity of many IV / V type IVL emulsions is comparable to that of water.
  • microemulsions are that active substances can be present in a much finer disperse in the disperse phase than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that, owing to their low viscosity, they can be sprayed better. If microemulsions are used as cosmetics, corresponding ones are distinguished Products characterized by high cosmetic elegance.
  • O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of so-called phase inversion temperature technology and contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A), which is selected from the group of emulsifiers with the following properties, are particularly advantageous according to the invention:
  • Advantageous emulsifiers A are e.g. B. polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (cetearath-12, cetearath-20, isoceteth-20, beheneth-20, Lau - reth-9 etc.) and / or alkyl polyglycosides (cetearyl glycoside, stearyl glycoside, palmityl glycoside etc.).
  • PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (cetearath-12, cetearath-20, isoceteth-20, beheneth-20, Lau - reth-9 etc.) and / or alkyl polyglycosides (cetearyl
  • O / W emulsions in particular O / W microemulsions
  • the size of the oil droplets being essentially determined by the concentration of the emulsifier (s) used, such that a higher one Emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower emulsifier concentration leads to larger droplets.
  • the droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.
  • alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (in particular cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol), W / O emulsifiers (such as sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate 3, poly -Oleate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, PEG-7-hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, acrylate / C 10 - 3 o-alkyl acrylate cross-
  • W / O emulsifiers such as sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostear
  • RSWK-02017 polymer sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycolhydyl distearate-polyglyceryl xystearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid (cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, trioleth-8 phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate etc.) can be used.
  • sulfuric or phosphoric acid cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4 phosphate, trioleth-8 phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate etc.
  • Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions for the purposes of the present invention are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions which contain at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, the preparation being stabilized by at least one gel former and not necessarily having to contain emulsifiers, but one or can contain several emulsifiers.
  • Advantageous gel formers for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of C 10 . 30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters.
  • the INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer”.
  • the Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.
  • Carbopole are also advantageous gel formers for such preparations.
  • Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.
  • Advantageous carbopoles are, for example, types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984.
  • Further advantageous gel formers for such Preparations are xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives and locust bean gum.
  • Possible (optional) emulsifiers that can be used are ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids (in particular PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or other nonionic surface-active substances.
  • the very low viscosity to sprayable emulsions can also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions.
  • W / O or W / S emulsions are particularly advantageous
  • RSWK-02017 • contain at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value ⁇ 8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value ⁇ 7 and • contain at least one O / W emulsifier with an HLB value> 10 ,
  • Such preparations also contain at least 20% by weight of lipids, the lipid phase advantageously also containing silicone oils or even consisting entirely of such oils.
  • the silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (e.g. dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL ® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 97], Lauryl methicone copolyol [Dow Corning Ltd./Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid], octyl dimethicon
  • the W / O emulsifier (s) with an HLB value ⁇ 7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-oleate, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, methyl glucose dioleate Methyl glucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C ⁇ o- 3 o-alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy stearate, polyglyceryl Diisostearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl
  • the O / W emulsifier (s) with an HLB value> 10 can advantageously be selected from the following group: glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 - Castor oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-PEG - stearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, poly-
  • RSWK-02017 sorbate-65 polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 -Stearate, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, methyl-glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20-stearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, PEG-20-methylglucose sesqu ⁇ stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl s
  • Aqueous-alcoholic solutions are also advantageous. They can contain from 0% by weight to 90% by weight of ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions can advantageously also contain solubilizers in the sense of the present invention, such as. B. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • ⁇ - special W / O emulsions CHe Sngo ⁇ i etc
  • CHe Sngo ⁇ i etc preferably have ur ⁇ ene V ä s os; did of a eniges 20CC r * X, rsbese ⁇ de * e (Measuring device: Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C).
  • cosmetic sun protection wipes, wipes and the like are available, which represent the combination of a soft, water-insoluble material with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solution
  • compositions according to the present invention can advantageously also be present as anhydrous oils or oil gels or pastes.
  • Advantageous oils are synthetic,
  • RSWK-0201 semi-synthetic or natural oils such as rapeseed oil, rice oil, avocado oil, olive oil, mineral oil, cocoglycerides, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C ⁇ 2 - ⁇ 5 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodekanol and the like.
  • Various waxes with a melting point> 25 ° C can be used as oil gel formers. Gel formers from the group of aerosils, alkylgalactomannans (for example N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives are also advantageous.
  • Self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations are also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • “Self-foaming”, “foam-like”, “post-foaming” or “foamable” means preparations from which foams - be it during the manufacturing process, be it in use by the consumer or in another way - by entering one or several gases can be produced in principle.
  • the gas bubbles are (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the (foamed) preparations not necessarily having to have the appearance of a foam macroscopically.
  • (Foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can, for. B. represent macroscopically visible dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids.
  • the foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope.
  • foams according to the invention - especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized from the large increase in volume of the system.
  • such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which consists of
  • At least one emulsifier A selected from the group of fully, partially or not neutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
  • RSWK-0201 B at least one emulsifier B, selected from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and C. at least one coemulsifier C, selected from the group of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.
  • the emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of the fatty acids which are wholly or partly with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) are neutralized.
  • customary alkalis such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine
  • stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.
  • the emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG Glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate.
  • the co-emulsifier (s) C are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C 22 H 45 OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (Ci ⁇ H ⁇ OH) and stearyl alcohol (C 18 H 37 OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols) which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.
  • weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another are rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 can represent up to 3.
  • a weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.
  • the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C is advantageous for the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight. %, each based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are stabilized only by finely divided solid particles are also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention.
  • Such “emulsifier-free” emulsions are also referred to as Pickering emulsions.
  • the solid material In Pickering emulsions, the solid material accumulates at the oil / water phase boundary in the form of a layer, which prevents the disperse phases from flowing together.
  • the surface properties of the solid particles which should show both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, are of particular importance.
  • the stabilizing solid particles can advantageously also be surface-treated ("coated"), whereby an amphiphilic character of these solid particles should be formed or maintained.
  • the surface treatment can consist in that the solid particles are treated with a thin hydrophobic or hydrophilic layer are provided.
  • the average particle diameter of the microfine solid particles used as a stabilizer is preferably chosen to be less than 100 ⁇ m, particularly advantageously less than 50 ⁇ m. It is essentially irrelevant in which form (platelets, rods, beads, etc.) or modification the solid particles used are present.
  • microfine solid particles are preferably selected from the group of the amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. The following are particularly advantageous:
  • RSWK-02017 Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated) eg Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-100 Z from Tayca Corporation • Zinc oxides eg Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ -300, MZ -500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation • Iron oxides
  • the microfine solid particles are selected from the following group: boron nitrides, starch derivatives (tapioca starch, sodium com starch, octynyl succinate, etc.), talc, latex particles. It is advantageous according to the invention , if the solid-stabilized emulsions contain significantly less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers or are even completely emulsifier-free
  • Pens Also advantageous for the purposes of the invention are preparations in the form of pens. From a technical point of view, most pen formulations are water-free fat mixtures from solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, with highly purified paraffinols and waxes being the basic pen mass
  • RSWK-02017 also possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical formulations.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as are usually used in such preparations, eg. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.
  • cosmetic auxiliaries eg. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, Waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols,
  • Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DM DM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant TM), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil- L, Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie p-hydroxybenzoic acid alkyl esters such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like more.
  • the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.
  • Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Ocel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.
  • EDDS EDTA
  • [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS) which is available, for example, from Ocel under the trade name Octaquest
  • pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate which, for. B.
  • Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccin
  • antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients.
  • the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive but nevertheless optional antioxidants.
  • water-soluble antioxidants such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
  • Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.
  • the amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.
  • vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s)
  • vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.
  • the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.
  • active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as.
  • RSWK-02017 Coenzyme Q10 alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine and 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid (dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68- 2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid).
  • Recipes according to the invention which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle agents such as flavone glycosides (especially ⁇ -glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like, are particularly advantageous for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced regreasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (eg age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.
  • skin aging such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced regreasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasias, cuperosis), fla
  • the water phase of the preparations according to the present invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol - Col, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or mono ethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which are advantageously chosen can be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g.
  • customary cosmetic auxiliaries such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably
  • B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984 , ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.
  • compositions according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or
  • RSWK-02017 Melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously contain repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like.
  • B N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Metadolphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate (available from Merck under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535.
  • the repellents can be used both individually and in combination.
  • Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of simply reducing the amount of moisture released by the horns (also called transepidermal water
  • TEWL transepidermal water
  • moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerin, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea.
  • polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides.
  • hyaluronic acid chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide
  • Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.
  • Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle agents for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for example in US Pat. B. occur in skin aging, are used.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin.
  • fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch deri
  • RSWK-02017 vate such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like
  • pigments that have neither a primary UV filter nor coloring effect such as boron nitride etc.
  • Aerosile ® CAS No. 7631-86-9
  • the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B.
  • cocoglyceride olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.
  • z. B natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).
  • further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms.
  • ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearylisonononate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearylateolate, n-butyl stearylateolate, n-butyl stearylateolate, Isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates.
  • Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).
  • B. butyl octyl salicylate for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall
  • hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof Hallstar AB
  • Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R diethyl hexyl naphthalate
  • the oil phase can also advantageously also contain nonpolar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohe- xadecan.
  • nonpolar oils for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohe- xadecan.
  • polyolefins polydecenes are the preferred substances.
  • the oil phase can also advantageously contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.
  • Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups etc.) are saturated.
  • the silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes.
  • the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula
  • Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.
  • Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane
  • amino-modified silicones INCI: Amodimethsicone
  • silicone waxes for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)
  • phenylmethylpolysiloxanes INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone
  • cyclic silicones octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopen
  • polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl dimethicone and cetyl dimethicone) and dialkoxydimethyl polysiloxanes (stearoxy dimethicone and behenoxy stearyl dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyldimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • the preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products: (a) siloxane elastomers which contain the units R 2 SiO and RSiO- ⁇ , 5 and / or R 3 contain SiO 0 , 5 and / or SiO,
  • RSWK-02017 where the individual radicals R each independently of one another denote hydrogen, -CC- 24 -alkyl (such as methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R 2 SiO to RSiO- ⁇ , 5 is selected from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1; (b) Siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) containing silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) containing unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used being chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2)
  • organopolysiloxane is not cyclic
  • • is in the range of 1 to 50 mol% when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.
  • the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.
  • advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powder are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade name DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.
  • siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof.
  • Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are particularly advantageous, especially the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE Gel, PM-Gel, LTX, ININ available from Grant Industries Inc. Gel, AM-18 gel and / or DMCM-5.
  • the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight , each based on the total weight of the gel.
  • the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics.
  • the dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases they are identical to the colorants approved for food.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe 2 O 3 , Fe 3 O 4 , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-T-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid , Calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid,
  • RSWK-02017 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetra-iodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.
  • Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
  • Natural pearlescent pigments such as. B. ⁇ "Fish silver” (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and ⁇ “Mother-of-pearl” (milled mussel shells)
  • Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)
  • Layer-substrate pigments e.g. B. mica / metal oxide
  • Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.
  • pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:
  • RSWK-02017 selected from 1, 0 to 1 0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations. It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.
  • the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance.
  • the formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.
  • the preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase and which, in particular, can advantageously also be free of further oil components.
  • RSWK-02017 Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon ( SiO 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 O 3 ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium (BaSO 4 ).
  • the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.
  • the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character, for example, being formed or retained.
  • This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are coated with a thin film using methods known per se hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer
  • the various surface coatings can also contain water in the sense of the present invention.
  • Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al 2 O 3 ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) 3 , or aluminum oxide hydrate (also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6l sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n , silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86- 9), or iron oxide (Fe 2 O 3 ).
  • Al 2 O 3 aluminum oxide
  • Al (OH) 3 aluminum hydroxide Al
  • aluminum oxide hydrate also: alumina, CAS no .: 1333-84-2
  • sodium hexametaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) 6l sodium metaphosphate (NaPO 3 ) n silicon dioxide (SiO 2 ) (also: silica, CAS No .: 7631-86- 9)
  • iron oxide Fe 2 O 3
  • Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or
  • Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:
  • Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:
  • Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere” from Rohm & Haas.
  • UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as, for.
  • sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters such as, for.
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • UV filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are also benzoxazole derivatives, which are distinguished by the following structural formula,
  • benzoxazole derivative or derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivative (s) are present in pigmentary, ie undissolved, form - for example in particle sizes from 10 nm to 300 nm.
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones.
  • Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:
  • R 1 and R 2 are independently hydrogen, CrC 20 alkyl, C 3 -C ⁇ o-cycloalkyl or C 3 -C ⁇ o-cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R 1 and R 2 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached 5- or 6-ring can form and
  • R 3 is a CC 20 alkyl radical.
  • a particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:
  • UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.
  • Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.
  • An advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is also 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) ( INCI: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), which, for example is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.
  • Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethyIsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.
  • the other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
  • RSWK-02017 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine; • esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and
  • Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:
  • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bomyidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.
  • a further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, sold under the name Uvinul ® N 539 T is available (octocrylene) from BASF.
  • Particularly advantageous preparations within the meaning of the present invention which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - ⁇ [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl ⁇ -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4, bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt, either individually or in any combination with each other.
  • the list of the UV filters mentioned which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.
  • the preparations according to the present invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • the preparations within the meaning of the present invention may also advantageously contain substances which increase the water resistance of the products.
  • the substances mentioned to increase the water resistance are particularly advantageous:
  • acetylated stearic acid esters such as.
  • B Acetylated glycol stearate.
  • the combination of acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (INCI: acetylated glycol stearate and tristearin), which is available, for example, from ISP under the trade name Unitwix, can also be used advantageously.
  • Such products are registered under Chemical Abstracts registration numbers 91052-08-3 and 94944-95-3.
  • wax components such as C ⁇ 8 - 3 6 fatty acid triglyceride (e.g. Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with INCI: C18-36 Acid Triglyceride) as well as those available under the trade names "Performa V 1608” (INCI: C30-38 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer) and "Perfroma V 825" (synthetic wax) from New Phase Technologies substances.
  • C ⁇ 8 - 3 6 fatty acid triglyceride e.g. Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with INCI: C18-36 Acid Triglyceride
  • Performa V 1608 Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer
  • Perfroma V 825" synthetic wax
  • UVASorb® K2A 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino -1, 3,5-triazine [CAS No.
  • RSWK-02017 further foam-like O / W emulsions:
  • RSWK-02017 further foam-like O / W emulsions:
  • emulsion I 80-97% by volume of emulsion I are foamed with 3-20% by volume of a suitable gas (for example propane / butane, compressed air, nitrogen).
  • a suitable gas for example propane / butane, compressed air, nitrogen.
  • Example 1 (Eve Shadow Gel):% by weight
  • PEG-8 polyethylene glycol 400 2.00
  • Timiron Splendid blue ⁇ (Merck KgaA) 4.50
  • Glitter pigments e.g. Helicone HC Scarabeus, Wacker
  • Example 3 (Eve Liner Gel):% by weight pearlescent pigments 10.00 iron oxide 3.00 silica 2.00 Aristoflex AVC 1.00
  • Example 1 (emulsion make-up): wt.% PEG-30 stearate 2.00
  • Glycerol monostearate 1 00
  • Octyldodecanol 7.00 isopropyl lanolate 4.00
  • Titanium dioxide 2.50
  • Cyclomethicone and PEG / PPG -18/18 dimethicone e.g. Dow Corning 3225 Formulation Aid 10.00
  • Titanium dioxide 2.50
  • Cetyl PEG / PPG - 10/1 dimethicone (e.g. Abil EM 90) 4.00

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques qui contiennent des dérivés de styryle-benzène.
PCT/EP2004/053157 2004-01-15 2004-11-29 Visualisation de produits de protection solaire sur la peau Ceased WO2005067881A1 (fr)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS62277316A (ja) * 1986-05-27 1987-12-02 Yoshiko Shirasu 蛍光色顔料を使用する日焼け止めクリ−ムと製法
JPH0381744A (ja) * 1989-08-25 1991-04-08 Sekisui Chem Co Ltd 有機非線形光学材料
US5958383A (en) * 1994-11-16 1999-09-28 Ipa, L.L.C. Colored formulations for application to human skin
WO2000071085A2 (fr) * 1999-05-26 2000-11-30 Color Access, Inc. Compositions cosmetiques renfermant des azureurs optiques
US6218348B1 (en) * 2000-04-26 2001-04-17 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Process of making soap bar with enhanced skin benefits comprising adding salts of specific protic acid
US20020037261A1 (en) * 1998-12-18 2002-03-28 Nao Lapidot Sunscreen composition containing sol-gel microcapsules

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE10102085C1 (de) * 2001-01-18 2002-05-29 Wella Ag Neue 1,4-Diamino-2-alkenyl-benzol-Derivate und diese Verbindungen enthaltende Färbemittel

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS62277316A (ja) * 1986-05-27 1987-12-02 Yoshiko Shirasu 蛍光色顔料を使用する日焼け止めクリ−ムと製法
JPH0381744A (ja) * 1989-08-25 1991-04-08 Sekisui Chem Co Ltd 有機非線形光学材料
US5958383A (en) * 1994-11-16 1999-09-28 Ipa, L.L.C. Colored formulations for application to human skin
US20020037261A1 (en) * 1998-12-18 2002-03-28 Nao Lapidot Sunscreen composition containing sol-gel microcapsules
WO2000071085A2 (fr) * 1999-05-26 2000-11-30 Color Access, Inc. Compositions cosmetiques renfermant des azureurs optiques
US6218348B1 (en) * 2000-04-26 2001-04-17 Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Process of making soap bar with enhanced skin benefits comprising adding salts of specific protic acid

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PATENT ABSTRACTS OF JAPAN vol. 015, no. 251 (P - 1220) 26 June 1991 (1991-06-26) *

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