WO2005067879A1 - Visualization of sun protection agents on the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing biphenyl and/or the derivatives thereof.

Description

 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

Visualization of sunscreens on the skin

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological (light protection) formulations containing biphenyl and / or its derivatives and the use of biphenyl and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations, in particular cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin , especially with the help of light activation.

In addition to the positive effects of sunlight, such as general well-being, the formation of vitamin D3 and acne treatment, there are also negative effects that must be counteracted.

If you expose the skin to the sun or an artificial radiation source for too long, after a latency period of 2 to 3 hours a reddening of the skin, the erythema solare, develops against the unexposed skin. With the resulting sunburn, one differentiates between

^■ 1st grade: erythema (redness, warmth) sounds after 2 to 3 days again and disappears with a simultaneous increase in pigmentation,

^■ 2nd degree: blistering on the skin forms blisters with burning and itching, the epidermis is pushed off flatly. ■ 3rd degree: cell damage there is profound cell damage, the body reacts with fever, the epidermis is rejected over a large area. The 2nd and 3rd degrees are also called solar dermatitis.

RSWK-02011 The formation of the erythema depends on the wavelength. The erythema range of the UV-B lies between 280 nm and 320 nm. About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm. While the UV-B radiation depends on numerous Factors vary widely (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day regardless of the time of year or day or geographical factors. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer.

It has long been erroneously assumed that long-wave UV-A radiation has only a negligible biological effect and that UV-B rays are accordingly responsible for most of the light damage to human skin. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.

The sunburn or the light erythema are the acute manifestations of the effect of light. In addition, however, particularly strongly exposed areas of the skin (face, neck, hands) show an aging (radiation-induced) change in the skin due to the high total dose associated with this. The most noticeable chronic light damage to the skin is actinic or senile elastosis. Macroscopically, it manifests itself in thickening and coarsening of the skin, wrinkling, loss of elasticity, the appearance of yellowish shimmering deposits and irregular pigment accumulations. The epidermis becomes thin in places and shows warty growths, the dermis loses its elasticity and tension, the water retention capacity is reduced. To the chronic light damage that as

RSWK-02011 Late complications include malignant melanoma and, in the last stage, actinic keratosis.

Since the contributions of the various wavelength ranges of UV light have not yet been fully clarified, preventive protection is necessary for both the UV-A and the UV-B range, for example by applying light protection filter substances in the form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation to the skin, vital. Cosmetic preparations should fundamentally strongly absorb the critical UV-A rays, not only to protect sensitive skin when sunbathing, but also for general protection up to use in a normal skin cream, since skin aging and the risk of skin cancer depend essentially on this part of the UV light to be influenced.

The benefit of a sunscreen preparation is to extend the amount of time that a consumer can stay in the sun without causing light damage. The filter effect should be adapted in particular for the UV-B range to the individual sensitivity of the consumer and the intensity of solar radiation.

The weakening of the intensity of the incident light and thus the effectiveness of a sun protection formulation depend, among other things, on the layer thickness of the applied filter substance. With increasing layer thickness, the effectiveness of a sunscreen also increases. Particularly in the case of low-viscosity preparations such as oils or alcoholic solutions, it is therefore necessary to also increase the viscosity of the formulation and thus the achievable layer thickness on the skin from a certain limit concentration of filter substance. In addition, it is only possible to a limited extent to increase the sun protection factor by increasing the concentration of the UV filter substance.

The layer thickness achieved with a special base is a very important criterion in light protection. In general, the sun protection factor increases in the order of oil <alcoholic solution <liquid emulsion <cream <paste. Adhesion is another important parameter in this context

RSWK-02011 or water resistance of the formulations on the skin. Most sunscreens are used near the water or during sports activities (sweating). A waterproof sunscreen can protect the user from sunburn not only during bathing but also after bathing, provided it is not washed off too much.

Of course, the prior art knows a large number of different light protection formulations with the most diverse light protection factors and application properties. The disadvantage of these conventional sunscreens is that, after applying the cream, the user can neither see whether he has covered all parts of the body exposed to the radiation with a protective layer, nor whether the skin has been adequately covered, ie. H. whether the layer thickness was chosen sufficiently. Another disadvantage is that the user cannot keep track of how the layer thickness of the sunscreen changes, for example due to contact with water or mechanical stresses such as drying, etc., and accordingly when a new creaming has become necessary.

In the worst case, this can lead to a reduced protective effect of the products.

A high level of protection of the preparations is of particular importance, especially for children's and baby products, since children are particularly susceptible to sunburn due to the low light swell (thickening of the horny layer) and the reduced level of self-protection and also often play for hours on or in the water. In addition, the more sunburns an adult has, the higher the risk of skin cancer for an adult.

At the same time, however, it is often problematic to apply sufficient cream to children, since they are usually very restless or impatient and sunscreen preparations with a high sunscreen factor are also difficult to distribute because of their generally higher viscosity. Furthermore, it is generally only for parents

RSWK-02011 difficult to tell when the sunscreen has been rubbed off or washed off and the children would have to be re-applied.

The object of the present invention was accordingly to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art and to find ways to visualize cosmetic and dermatological sunscreen formulations on the skin and thus to facilitate the application of a uniform film to the skin.

DE-100 34 332-A1 describes the use of effect pigments with an average particle size of 15 μm to 200 μm for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological formulations on the skin. DE-100 35 512-A1 also describes the use of dyes to make cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations visible on the skin. However, this prior art could not point the way to the present invention.

The disadvantage of these preparations is that the coloring of the skin by means of an effect pigment or a dye is generally very intense and also permanent, which is often perceived by the customer as annoying. In addition, the color of such products often differs greatly from the usual skin color, which gives the user an unnatural appearance.

As an attempt to solve this problem, both EP-941 051-B1 and EP 1 136 059-A2 describe colored sun protection emulsions which are characterized in that the color essentially fades when the sun protection emulsion dries after it has been applied to the skin distributed and / or rubbed into the skin. However, the effect achieved here also falls short of the hoped-for effect.

Accordingly, the prior art could not point the way to the present invention.

After all this, it was surprising and in no way foreseeable for the expert that

RSWK-02011 cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing biphenyl and / or its derivatives would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art. The present invention furthermore relates to the use of biphenyl and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin.

With the aid of the present invention, it is possible in an astonishingly simple manner to control the amount of sunscreen applied without the skin becoming disruptively conspicuous and / or permanent. Furthermore, based on the visual impression that the formulations leave on the skin, both for the user himself and for third parties, such as. B. parents, easily recognizable which areas of the skin are already covered with a protective layer and where (or again) creaming is required. The cosmetic is usually visualized directly with the eye, for example by the user viewing the area of skin in question using a contrast enhancer.

The substances according to the invention absorb visible and / or UV light and then emit light whose wavelength is longer than that of the absorbed light. So they show an effective fluorescence in a longer-wave range. The difference between incident and emitted light can be, for example, 2 to 100 nm.

As a contrast enhancer for the purposes of the present invention, for. B. thin colored plastic films or colored glasses are used, whereby the color of the contrast enhancer is selected according to the color of the fluorescence: Since blue foils are essentially transparent to blue radiation, they are suitable as contrast enhancers for the visualization of substances that emit blue light etc ,

According to the invention, those formulations which have a continuous decrease in fluorescence after application are particularly advantageous, for example because the fluorescent substances are photolabile and

RSWK-02011 are decomposed to non-fluorescent substances by the influence of radiation.

Erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhafte Derivate dieser Verbindungen sind:RSWK-02011 Biphenyl is characterized by the following structural formula:

Derivatives of these compounds which are particularly advantageous according to the invention are:

4,4'-bis (2-sulfatylyl) bisphenyl (CAS 54351 -85-8, Tinopal CBS-X from CIBA),

Distearylbiphenyl derivatives such as B. Blankophor VPSP 20006 from Baer

And 2,5-bis (4-biphenylyl) oxazole (BBO, CAS 2083-09-2, Lambdachrome® number LC 4150 from Lambda Physik)

The substances according to the invention can be present either individually or in a mixture. The total amount of the substances according to the invention is advantageously chosen from the range from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is very particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the substances according to the invention are in encapsulated form. Permanent encapsulations are advantageous, i. H. Capsules from which the invention

RSWK-02011 Substances are not released into the cosmetic preparation or the skin. It goes without saying that the encapsulation for light must be continuous so that both the absorbed and the emitted radiation can penetrate through the capsule.

An advantageous encapsulation consists of (chemically inert) plastics.

Encapsulations which are obtainable by sol-gel microtechnology are also advantageous. Here, the substances according to the invention are enclosed in an inert silica membrane, ultimately encapsulated in glass beads. Encapsulated substances according to the invention can also be used advantageously in the form of aqueous dispersions for the purposes of the present invention.

Encapsulated substances according to the invention are particularly suitable for the production of particularly sensitive (sensitive) products. In addition, it is of course advantageous to use potentially skin-irritating substances according to the invention in encapsulated form.

It is particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, together with biphenyl or one or more of its derivatives, one or more at the same time

Use substances that provide an extension of the light path and / or with which additional scattering and / or reflection centers are introduced into the formulation, which support the effects of biphenyl and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin. Cosmetic formulations containing TiO ₂ and / or other pigments can be excited particularly easily by light. This leads to significantly lower use concentrations of biphenyl and its

Derivatives are sufficient to achieve the desired effect. These substances from the group of reflective pigments, such as, for. B. Ti0 ₂ and the like.

For the purposes of the present invention, the preparations can preferably contain, in addition to one or more oil phases, one or more water phases

RSWK-02011 and for example in the form of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions. Such formulations can preferably also be microemulsions, sticks, foams (so-called mousse), solid emulsions (ie emulsions which are stabilized by solids, for example Pickering emulsions), sprayable emulsions or hydrodispersions. Furthermore, the preparations can advantageously also be oil-free and / or aqueous / alcoholic solutions. It is preferred according to the invention if the formulations are waterproof.

(Macroscopic) two-phase or multi-phase systems are also advantageous according to the invention. “Two or more phases” in the sense of the present invention means that two or more phases are layered separately one above the other. It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases has a (W / O, O / W In this (macroscopic) observation, the emulsion is perceived as one phase, although it is of course known to the person skilled in the art that emulsions are in themselves formed from two or more phases homogenized with one another. is long-term stable, so that there is no separation or phase separation within the emulsion even over a longer period (months, years). The macroscopically visible phases or layers can advantageously be emulsified for a short time - for example by shaking - to form a homogeneous emulsion which, however, is not stable over the long term, but rather separates again into two or more layers layered over one another over a period of minutes, hours or days , For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous if at least one of the macroscopically visible phases is a microemulsion and at least one other of the macroscopically visible phases is an oil phase.

Sprayable emulsions, in particular microemulsions. Sprayable O / W emulsions, in particular O W microemissions, are particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.

RSWK-02011 The droplet diameters of the usual “simple”, ie non-multiple emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm. Such “macroemulsions” are colored milky white and opaque without additional coloring additives. Finer "macroemulsions", whose droplet diameters are in the range from approx. 0.5 μm to approx. 1 μm, are again blue-white in color and opaque, without coloring additives. Such "macroemulsions" usually have a high viscosity.

The droplet diameter of microemulsions in the context of the present invention, on the other hand, is in the range from about 50 to about 500 nm. Such microemulsions are colored bluish white to translucent and mostly of low viscosity. The viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water.

The advantage of microemulsions is that active substances can be present in the disperse phase much more finely than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". Another advantage is that they are easier to spray because of their low viscosity. Microemulsions are used as cosmetics corresponding products are characterized by their high cosmetic elegance.

O / W microemulsions which are obtainable with the aid of so-called phase inversion temperature technology and which contain at least one emulsifier (emulsifier A), which is selected from the group of emulsifiers with the following properties, are particularly advantageous according to the invention: • Their lipophilicity depends on the temperature in such a way that the lipophilicity increases by increasing the temperature and the lipophilicity of the emulsifier decreases by lowering the temperature. Advantageous emulsifiers A are e.g. B. polyethoxylated fatty acids (PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-150 Laurath, PEG-8 distearate and the like) and / or polyethoxylated fatty alcohols (Cetearath-12, Cetearath-20, isoceteth-20, Beheneth-20, Laureth -9 etc.) and / or alkyl polyglycosides (cetearyl glycosides, stearyl glycosides, palmityl glycosides etc.).

RSWK-02011 If the phase inversion is initiated essentially by varying the temperature, O / W emulsions, in particular O / W microemulsions, are available, the size of the oil droplets being essentially determined by the concentration of the emulsifier (s) used, such that a higher one Emulsifier concentration causes smaller droplets and lower emulsifier concentration leads to larger droplets. The droplet sizes are usually between 20 and 500 nm.

In the sense of the present invention, it may be advantageous to use further W / O and / or O / W emulsifiers that do not fall under the definition of emulsifier A, for example to increase the water resistance of the preparations according to the present invention. Here z. B. alkyl methicone copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (in particular cetyl dimethicone copolyol, lauryl methicone copolyol), W / O emulsifiers (such as, for example, sorbitan stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycerol stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl isostearate 3-polyglycerol, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl, polyglyceryl glyceryl) -3 diisostearate, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, acrylate / Cι _0-3 o-alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sorbitan isostearate, poloxamer 101, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoyl-polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate) and / or fatty acid esters of sulfuric or phosphoric acid (cetyl phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate 8) Phosphate, stearyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate etc.) can be used.

Further advantageous sprayable O / W emulsions for the purposes of the present invention are low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions which contain at least one oil phase and at least one water phase, the preparation being stabilized by at least one gel former and not necessarily having to contain emulsifiers, but one or more May contain emulsifiers.

Advantageous gel formers for such preparations are, for example, copolymers of C 3 -C 3 -alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, the

RSWK-02011 Methacrylic acid or its ester. The INCI name for such compounds is "Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer". The Pemulen® types TR 1, TR 2 and TRZ from Goodrich (Noveon) are particularly advantageous.

Carbopole are also advantageous gel formers for such preparations. Carbopols are polymers of acrylic acid, especially also acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. Advantageous carbopoles are, for example, types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984. Likewise ETD types 2020, 2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10. Further advantageous gel formers for such Preparations are xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives and locust bean gum.

Possible (optional) emulsifiers that can be used are ethoxylated fatty alcohols or ethoxylated fatty acids (in particular PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-20) and / or other nonionic surface-active substances.

Furthermore, the very low viscosity to sprayable emulsions can also be W / O or water-in-silicone oil (W / S) emulsions. W / O or W / S emulsions are particularly advantageous

• at least one silicone emulsifier (W / S) with an HLB value <8 and / or at least one W / O emulsifier with an HLB value <7 and

• Contain at least one OΛW emulsifier with an HLB value> 10. Such preparations also contain at least 20% by weight of lipids, the lipid phase advantageously also containing silicone oils or even consisting entirely of such oils.

The silicone emulsifier (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols (eg dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL® B 8842, ABIL® B 8843, ABIL® B 8847, ABIL® B 8851, ABIL® B 8852, ABIL® B 8863, ABIL® B 8873 and ABIL® B 88183 are sold, cetyl dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 90], cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol [Goldschmidt AG / ABIL® EM 97], lauryl methicone copolyol [Dow Corning Ltd./Dow Corning® 5200 Formulation Aid], octyl dimethicone ethoxy glucoside [company Wacker].

RSWK-02011 The one or more W / O emulsifiers with an HLB value <7 can advantageously be selected from the following group: sorbitan stearate, sorbitan oleate, lecithin, glyceryl alcoholate, lanolin, hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, methylglucosediolate, methylglucose dosed Mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, hexyl laurate, acrylate / C _10- 3o-alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, sorbitan isostearate, polyglycery I-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, PEG-30 dipolydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dioleate.

The O / W emulsifier (s) with an HLB value> 10 can advantageously be selected from the following group: glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 -Ricinus oil and sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, glyceryl stearate, sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, lecithin trilaureth-4 phosphate, laureth-4 phosphate, stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-20 stearate-40, PEG Stearate, PEG-100 stearate, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-65, polysorbate-100, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-100 stearate, ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol im Mixture with sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate, PEG-40 stearate, glycol distearate, polyglyceryl 2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-2, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, Steareth-21, Steareth-20, Isosteareth-20, PEG-45 / Dodecylglyc ol-copolymer, glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, PEG-2O-methylglucose sesquistearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, cetearyl sulfate, sorbitan sesquioleate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglyceryl-methyl-glucose-stearate-methyl-glucose-stearate-phosphate 2-sesqui- isostearate, ceteth-10, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetyl stearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate.

Aqueous-alcoholic solutions are also advantageous. They can contain from 0% by weight to 90% by weight ethanol. Aqueous-alcoholic solutions can be used in the sense of

RSWK-02011 present invention advantageously also contain solubilizers, such as. B. PEG-40 or PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil ..

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously be used as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions, with which in particular water-insoluble substrates - such as B. woven or non-woven cloths - are moistened. Such impregnation solutions are preferably low-viscosity, in particular sprayable (such as P! T ~ emulsions, hydrodispersions, W / O emulsions, oils, aqueous solutions, etc.) and preferably have a viscosity of less than 2000 niPa- s, in particular less than 1,500 mPa-s (measuring device: Haake Viscotester VT-02 at 25 ° C). With their help, for example, cosmetic sun protection wipes, wipes and the like are available, which represent the combination of a soft, water-insoluble material with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solution.

oils

The preparations according to the present invention can advantageously also be present as anhydrous oils or oil gels or pastes. Advantageous oils are e.g. For example, synthetic, semi-synthetic or natural oils such as rapeseed oil, rice oil, avocado oil, olive oil, mineral oil, coco-glycerides, Butylene Gylcol dicaprylate / dicaprate, _C12 - ₁ 5 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, octyldodecanol and the like. Various waxes with a melting point> 25 ° C can be used as oil gel formers. Gel formers from the group of aerosils, alkylgalactomannans (eg N-Hance AG 200 and N-Hance AG 50 from Hercules) and polyethylene derivatives are also advantageous.

foams

Self-foaming, foam-like, post-foaming or foamable cosmetic and dermatological preparations are also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.

"Self-foaming", "foam-like", "post-foaming" or "foamable" means preparations from which foams - be it during the

RSWK-02011 Manufacturing process, be it in the application by the consumer or in another way - can be produced in principle by introducing one or more gases. In such foams, the gas bubbles are (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the (foamed) preparations not necessarily having to have the appearance of a foam macroscopically. (Foamed) cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention (hereinafter also referred to simply as foams for the sake of simplicity) can, for. B. represent macroscopically visible dispersed systems from gases dispersed in liquids. The foam character can, for example, only become visible under a (light) microscope. In addition, foams according to the invention - especially when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - can also be recognized from the system's large volume increase.

For the purposes of the present invention, such preparations advantageously contain an emulsifier system which consists of

A. at least one emulsifier A, selected from the group of fully, partially or unneutralized, branched and / or unbranched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms, B. at least one emulsifier B. from the group of polyethoxylated fatty acid esters with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms and with a degree of ethoxylation of 5 to 100 and

C. at least one co-emulsifier C, selected from the group consisting of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched fatty alcohols with a chain length of 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

The emulsifier (s) A are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which are wholly or partly neutralized with customary alkalis (such as sodium and / or potassium hydroxide, sodium and / or potassium carbonate and mono- and / or triethanolamine) are. For example, stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates, and myristic acid and myristates are particularly advantageous.

RSWK-02011 The emulsifier (s) B are preferably selected from the following group: PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-8 stearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG- 40-sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG 20 glyceryl stearate, PEG 20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG 20 glyceryl oleate, PEG 20 stearate, PEG 20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG 30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG Glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate. Polyethoxylated stearic acid esters, for example, are particularly advantageous.

The co-emulsifier (s) according to the invention are preferably selected from the following group: behenyl alcohol (C ₂₂ H ₄₅ OH), cetearyl alcohol [a mixture of cetyl alcohol (Cι ₆ H ₃₃ OH) and stearyl alcohol (Cι ₈ H ₃₇ OH)], lanolin alcohols (wool wax alcohols) , which represent the unsaponifiable alcohol fraction of the wool wax which is obtained after the saponification of wool wax). Cetyl and cetylstearyl alcohol are particularly preferred.

It is advantageous according to the invention to choose the weight ratios of emulsifier A to emulsifier B to coemulsifier C (A: B: C) as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another are rational numbers from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 can represent up to 3. A weight ratio of approximately 1: 1: 1 is particularly preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous for the total amount of emulsifiers A and B and of coemulsifier C to be in the range from 2 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 7 to 13% by weight. -%, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Pickering / solid stabilized emulsions

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations which are stabilized only by finely divided solid particles are also particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention. Such “emulsifier-free” emulsions are also referred to as Pickering emulsions.

RSWK-02011 In Pickering emulsions, the solid material accumulates at the oil / water phase boundary in the form of a layer, which prevents the disperse phases from flowing together. The surface properties of the solid particles, which should show both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, are of particular importance.

The stabilizing solid particles can advantageously also be surface-treated ("coated"), whereby an amphiphilic character of these solid particles is to be formed or retained. The surface treatment can consist in that the solid particles are treated with a thin hydrophobic by methods known per se or hydrophilic layer.

The average particle diameter of the microfine solid particles used as a stabilizer is preferably chosen to be less than 100 μm, particularly advantageously less than 50 μm. It is essentially irrelevant in which form (platelets, rods, beads, etc.) or modification the solid particles used are present.

The microfine solid particles are preferably selected from the group of the amphiphilic metal oxide pigments. The following are particularly advantageous:

• Titanium dioxides (coated and uncoated): e.g. B. Eusolex T-2000 from Merck, titanium dioxide MT-10 O Z from Tayca Corporation

• zinc oxides z. B. Z-Cote and Z-Cote HP1 from BASF AG, MZ-300, MZ-500 and MZ-505M from Tayca Corporation • Iron oxides

Furthermore, it is advantageous if the microfine solid particles are selected from the following group: boron nitrides, starch derivatives (tapioca starch, sodium com starch octynyl succinate etc.), talc, latex particles.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the solid-stabilized emulsions contain significantly less than 0.5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers or are even completely emulsifier-free.

RSWK-02011 pencils

Preparations in the form of pens are also advantageous for the purposes of the invention. From a technical point of view, most stick formulations are water-free fat mixtures made from solid or semi-solid waxes and liquid oils, with highly purified paraffin oils and waxes being the stick base.

Typical raw materials for stick-like preparations are, for example, liquid oils (such as paraffin oils, castor oil, isopropyl myristate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate). semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. tablespoon beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline waxes or Ozokerlt) and / or high-melting waxes (e.g. Carnauba ac s, candelilla wax). Water-containing stick-like preparations are also known per se, although these can also be in the form of W / O emulsions.

The cosmetic or dermatological light protection formulations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic or dermatological light protection, also for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin and / or hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

Depending on their structure, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions can be used for the purposes of the present invention, for example as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, day or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as the basis for pharmaceutical formulations.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, complexing agents, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent or increase foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, to you-

RSWK-02011 Tender and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the skin feel, fats, oils, waxes or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Advantageous preservatives for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, formaldehyde releasers (such as, for example, DMDM hydantoin, which is available, for example, from Lonza under the trade name Glydant ™), iodopropyl butyl carbamates (for example those under the trade names Glycacil-L , Glycacil-S available from Lonza and / or Dekaben LMB from Jan Dekker), parabens (ie alkyl p-hydroxybenzoates such as methyl, ethyl, propyl and / or butyl paraben), phenoxyethanol, ethanol, benzoic acid and the like , According to the invention, the preservation system usually also advantageously comprises preservation aids, such as, for example, octoxyglycerol, glycine soya, etc.

Advantageous complexing agents for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, EDTA, [S, S] -ethylenediamine disuccinate (EDDS), which is available, for example, from Octel under the trade name Octaquest, pentasodium-ethylenediaminetetramethylenephosphonate, which, for. B. is available under the trade name Dequest 2046 from Monsanto and / or iminodisuccinic acid, which u. a. is firmly available from Bayer AG under the trade names Iminodisuccinat VP OC 370 (approx. 30% solution) and Baypure CX 100.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

For the purposes of the present invention, water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

RSWK-02011 Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, camitin, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine and 8-hexadecene-1,16-dicarboxylic acid ( Dioic acid, CAS number 20701-68-2; provisional INCI name Octadecendioic acid).

Recipes according to the invention, which, for. B. known anti-wrinkle active ingredients such as flavone glycosides (especially α-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q10, vitamin E and / or derivatives and the like are particularly suitable for the pro

RSWK-02011 phylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as z. B. occur with skin aging (such as dryness, roughness and formation of dry lines, itching, reduced re-greasing (e.g. after washing), visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis), flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and fine lines, local hyper- , Hypo and incorrect pigmentation (e.g. age spots), increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking) and the like). They are also advantageous against the appearance of dry or rough skin.

The water phase of the preparations according to the present invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those having a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols having a low C number, and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol , Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be selected from the Group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles [from Bf. Goodrich], for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, ETD 2020, ETD 2050, Ultrez 10, each individually or in combination.

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also contain self-tanning substances, such as, for example, dihydroxyacteon and / or melanin derivatives in concentrations of 1% by weight to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The preparations according to the present invention can also advantageously be repellents for protection against mosquitoes, ticks and spiders and the like

RSWK-02011 contain. Z are advantageous. B. N, N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide (trade name: Meta-delphene, "DEET"), dimethyl phthalate (trade name: Palatinol M, DMP) and in particular ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetylamino) propionate ( available from Merck under the trade name Insekt Repellent® 3535. The repellents can be used both individually and in combination.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water joss (TEWL)) after application or distribution on the skin surface and / or positively hydrating the horny layer to influence.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can also advantageously be used as anti-wrinkle agents for the prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, such as those described for example in US Pat. B. occur in skin aging, are used.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments, which are neither primarily

RSWK-02011 UV filter still have coloring effects (such as boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9).

The oil phase of the formulations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, especially the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as. B. cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like.

According to the invention, z. B. natural waxes of animal and vegetable origin, such as beeswax and other insect waxes and berry wax, shea butter and / or lanolin (wool wax).

For the purposes of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can also be selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyl dodeceyl myristate, octyl dodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-butyl stearate, n-butyl stearate, n-butyl stearate, n Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, tritecidecyl ester, such as natural, tri-ethoxylate, synthetic and tridecyl ester, such as synthetic, tri-ethoxylate, synthetic, tridecyl-synthetic, tridecyl-synthetic, such as synthetic, tridecyl-synthetic, tridecyl-synthetic, such as synthetic, tridecyl-synthetic, tridecyl-synthetic, such as synthetic, tri-ethoxylate, synthetic, tridecyl-synthetic, such as tri-synthetic and tri-ethoxylate, such as B. Jojoba oil.

RSWK-02011 Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers and dialkyl carbonates. B. Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE) and / or Dicaprylyl carbonate, for example that available under the trade name Cetiol CC from Cognis.

It is further preferred that the or oil components from the group consisting of isoeicosane, neopentyl glycol, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, caprylic Nc / capric / diglyceryl succinate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Cι ι _{2- 3} alkyl lactate, di- Cι _2-1 3-alkyl tartrate , Triisostearin, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate / hexacaprate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, tricaprylin, dimethylisosorbide. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the formulations according to the invention ₁₂ has a content of C i5-alkyl benzoate, or consists entirely of this.

Advantageous oil components are also e.g. B. butyl octyl salicylate (for example that available under the trade name Hallbrite BHB from CP Hall), hexadecyl benzoate and butyl octyl benzoate and mixtures thereof (Hallstar AB) and / or diethyl hexyl naphthalate (Hallbrite TQ or Corapan TQ from H&R).

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

Furthermore, the oil phase can also advantageously also contain non-polar oils, for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular mineral oil, petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins, hydrogenated polyisobutenes and isohexadecane. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils.

RSWK-02011 Silicone oils are high-molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms are linked in a chain and / or network-like manner via oxygen atoms and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) are saturated. The silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes. The methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are characterized by the following structural formula

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten.

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights.

Particularly advantageous polyorganosiloxanes for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which are available, for example, under the trade names Abil 10 to 10,000 from Th. Goldschmidt. Also advantageous are phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI are also referred to as cyclomethicones, amino-modified silicones (INCI: amodimethicone) and silicone waxes. B. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: Stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone), which are available as different Abil-Wax types from Th. Goldschmidt. However, other silicone oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example cetyl dimethicone, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously contain one or more substances from the following group of siloxane elastomers, for example in order to increase the water resistance and / or the sun protection factor of the products:

RSWK-02011 (a) Siloxane elastomers which contain the units R ₂ SiO and RSiO-ι, ₅ and / or R ₃ SiO _0.5 and / or Si0 ₂ , the individual radicals R each independently of one another hydrogen, Cι _-24 - alkyl (such as for example methyl, ethyl, propyl) or aryl (such as phenyl or tolyl), alkenyl (such as vinyl) and the weight ratio of the units R ₂ SiO to RSiO-ι, _{5 selected} from the range from 1: 1 to 30: 1 becomes;

(b) siloxane elastomers which are insoluble and swellable in silicone oil and which can be obtained by the addition reaction of an organopolysiloxane (1) which contains silicon-bonded hydrogen with an organopolysiloxane (2) which contains unsaturated aliphatic groups, the proportions used be chosen so that the amount of hydrogen of the organopolysiloxane (1) or the unsaturated aliphatic groups of the organopolysiloxane (2) is • in the range from 1 to 20 mol% if the organopolysiloxane is not cyclic and • in the range from 1 to 50 mol% is when the organopolysiloxane is cyclic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the siloxane elastomer or elastomers are advantageously in the form of spherical powders or in the form of gels.

According to the invention, advantageous siloxane elastomers in the form of spherical powders are those with the INCI name Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, for example that available from DOW CORNING under the trade name DOW CORNING 9506 Powder.

It is particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with oils from hydrocarbons of animal and / or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, synthetic esters, synthetic ethers or mixtures thereof.

It is very particularly preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in combination with unbranched silicone oils which are liquid or pasty at room temperature or cyclic silicone oils or mixtures thereof. In particular

RSWK-02011 Organopolysiloxane elastomers with the INCI name Dimethicone / Polysilicone-11 are advantageous, particularly the Gransil types GCM, GCM-5, DMG-6, CSE gel, PM gel, LTX, ININ gel, AM available from Grant Industries Inc. -18 gel and / or DMCM-5.

It is very exceptionally preferred if the siloxane elastomer is used in the form of a gel composed of siloxane elastomer and a lipid phase, the content of the siloxane elastomer in the gel being 1 to 80% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 60% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the gel.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous to determine the total amount of the siloxane elastomers (active content) in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation, to choose.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments, in particular if they are in the form of decorative cosmetics. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg Fe ₂ 0 ₃ , Fe ₃ 0, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

If the formulations according to the invention are in the form of products which are used on the face, it is advantageous to choose one or more substances from the following group as the dye: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'- nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1- naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene in-1'-sulfonic acid , Calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2- naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt of 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-

RSWK-02011 hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2- naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6- disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy- pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4, 5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Also advantageous are oil-soluble natural dyes, such as. B. paprika extracts, ß-carotene or cochineal.

Formulations containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B. ^■ "Fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and ^■ "Mother-of-pearl" (milled mussel shells)

2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCI)

3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Pearlescent pigments are based, for example, on powdered pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the gloss pigment listed under CIN 77163.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

RSWK-02011 Group i assignment / layer thickness ι color

Silver-white pearlescent pigments Ti0 ₂ : 40 - 60 nm Silver interference pigments ti0 ₂ : 60 - 80 nm yellow

RSWK-02011 Mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as, for example, the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and can be mutually coated, different color effects generally being produced by different coating thicknesses. The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageously from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 1, 0 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

It is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to produce cosmetic and dermatological preparations, the main purpose of which is not to protect against sunlight, but which nevertheless contain other UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or makeup products usually incorporated UV-A or UV-B filter substances. UV protection substances, like antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, also provide effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in the form of a sunscreen are also favorable.

Accordingly, the preparations in the sense of the present invention preferably contain at least one further UV-A, UV-B and / or broadband filter substance. The formulations may, although not necessary, optionally also contain one or more organic and / or inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which may be present in the water and / or the oil phase.

The preparations according to the present invention can furthermore advantageously also be in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological emulsions which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as a further phase and which, in particular, can advantageously also be free of further oil components.

RSWK-02011 Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2- Ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamate-4-methoxycinnamate (4-methoxycinnamate) , INCI: Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2,2-bis-ethoxycarbonylvinyl) -phenoxy) propenyl) - methoxysiloxane / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer which is available, for example, under the trade name Parsol® SLX from Hoffmann La Röche.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (Ti0 ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon ( Si0 ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ 0 ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides and the sulfate of barium ( BaS0).

For the purposes of the present invention, the pigments can also advantageously be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Dispersing aids and / or solubilizing agents can advantageously be added to these predispersions.

According to the invention, the pigments can advantageously be surface-treated (“coated”), with a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character being formed or retained, for example. This surface treatment can consist in that the pigments are prepared using a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer The various surface coatings can also contain water for the purposes of the present invention.

Inorganic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of aluminum oxide (Al ₂ 0 ₃ ), aluminum hydroxide Al (OH) ₃ , or

RSWK-02011 Alumina hydrate (also: Alumina, CA S-No .: 1333-84-2), sodium hexametaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) ₆ , sodium metaphosphate (NaP0 ₃ ) _n , silicon dioxide (Si0 ₂ ) (also: silica, CAS no .: 7631- 86-9), or iron oxide (Fe ₂ 0 ₃ ). These inorganic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with organic coating materials.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane Units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

RSWK-02011

Other advantageous pigments are latex particles. Latex particles which are advantageous according to the invention are those described in the following documents: US Pat. No. 5,663,213 and EP 0 761 201. Particularly advantageous latex particles are those which are formed from water and styrene / acrylate copolymers and, for. B. are available under the trade name "Alliance SunSphere" from Rohm & Haas.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are di-benzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS No. 70356-09-1), which is available from Givaudan under the Parsol brand ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

Advantageous further UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are sulfonated, water-soluble UV filters, such as. For example: • phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene 1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37-7) , which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP; • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt and the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (CAS. No. 27503-81-7), which, for example, under the Trade name Eusolex 232 is available from Merck or under Neo Heliopan Hydro from Haarmann &Reimer;

RSWK-02011 • 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2- oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS. -No .: 90457-82- 2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornyli- denmethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also benzoxazole derivatives, which are characterized by the following structural formula,

wherein R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are selected independently of one another from the group of branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. It is particularly advantageous according to the invention to choose the radicals R ¹ and R ^{2 the} same, in particular from the group of the branched alkyl radicals having 3 to 5 carbon atoms. It is furthermore particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if R ^{3 is} an unbranched or branched alkyl radical having 8 carbon atoms, in particular the 2-ethylhexyl radical.

RSWK-02011 Benzoxazole derivative which is particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1, 3,5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula

auszeichnet und bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb® K2A erhältlich ist.

distinguished and is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb® K2A.

The benzoxazole derivative or derivatives are advantageously present in dissolved form in the cosmetic preparations according to the invention. However, it may also be advantageous if the benzoxazole derivative or derivatives in pigmentary, ie. H. undissolved form - for example in particle sizes from 10 nm to 300 nm.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called hydroxybenzophenones. Hydroxybenzophenones are characterized by the following structural formula:

worin

wherein

RSWK-02011 R ¹ and R ² independently of one another denote hydrogen, CC ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₀ -cycloalkyl or C ₃ -Cιo-cycloalkenyl, the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, can form a 5 or 6 ring and R ^{3 is} a CrC ₂₀ alkyl radical.

A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:

und unter dem Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.

and is available under the Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, i.e. Filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, triazine derivatives, such as. B.

• 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH;

• Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V;

• ^4,4, 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl), also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino - (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), which is sold by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150;

RSWK-02011 • 2- [4,6-bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazin-2-yl] -5- (octyloxy) phenol (CAS No .: 2725-22-6).

An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is also the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) ( INCI:

Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol), e.g. is available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1, 3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane.

The other UV filter substances can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester; 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;

• esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester; • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and

• UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble filter substances are e.g. B .:

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

RSWK-02011 A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, sold under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 T is available (octocrylene) from BASF.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are distinguished by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain, in addition to the filter substance (s) according to the invention, further UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular dibenzoylmethane derivatives [ for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane] and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4th -methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine and / or phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt in each case individually or in any combination with one another , The list of the UV filters mentioned, which can be used in the sense of the present invention, should of course not be limiting.

The preparations according to the present invention advantageously contain the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range in a total amount of, for. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparations to cosmetic To provide preparations that protect the hair or skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.

The preparations within the meaning of the present invention may also advantageously contain substances which increase the water resistance of the products. The substances mentioned to increase the water resistance are particularly advantageous:

A) PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: PEG-45 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 11 and x = 45]) and PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = z = 4.5 and x = 22]) and methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer (INCI: Methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer [y = 7 and

RSWK-02011 x = 22 and R = CH ₃ ]), which are available from AKZO Nobel.

B) Water-soluble or water-dispersible polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene block polymers (CTFA name: Polaxamers, CAS No. 9003-11-6) with the following structure:

wobei x, y und z ganze Zahlen aus dem Bereich von 2 bis 130, insbesondere von 15 bis 100 darstellen und x und z gleich sind, aber unabhängig von y gewählt werden.

where x, y and z represent integers from the range from 2 to 130, in particular from 15 to 100 and x and z are the same, but are chosen independently of y.

Among these are in particular Polaxamer 188 [with x = 75, y = 30 and z = 75], which can be obtained from BASF under the trade name Lutrol F 68 (old: Pluronic F 68), the Polyxamer 185 [with x = 19, y = 30 and z = 19] (Lubrajel WA from ISP), the Polyxamer 235 [with x = 27, y = 39 and z = 27] (Pluronic F 85 from BASF) and / or the Polyxamer 238 [with x = 97, y = 39 and z = 97] (Pluronic F 88 from BASF).

C) acetylated stearic acid esters, such as. B. Acetylated glycol stearate. According to the invention, the combination of acetylated glycol stearate with tristearin (INCI: acetylated glycol stearate and tristearin), which is available, for example, from ISP under the trade name Unitwix, can also be used advantageously. Such products are registered under Chemical Abstracts registration numbers 91052-08-3 and 94944-95-3.

D) Other advantageous substances which can contribute to increasing the water resistance but are incorporated into the oil phase of the preparations according to the present invention are certain wax components, such as C ₁₈ . ₃₆ fatty acid triglyceride (eg: Syncrowax HGLC from Crode GmbH with INCI: C18-36 acid triglycerides) and those under the trade names "Performa V 1608" (INCI: C30-38 olefin / isopropyl

RSWK-02011 Maleate / MA Copolymer) and "Perfroma V 825" (synthetic wax) substances available from New Phase Technologies.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to combine one or more of the substances mentioned in order to improve the water resistance of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations.

RSWK-02011 Examples: In the following examples: • UVASorb® K2A = 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino -1, 3,5-triazine [CAS No. 288254-16-0] • Uvinul® A Plus = 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone) • Tinopal CBS-X = 4,4'-bis (2-sulfatylyl) bisphenyl [CAS 54351 -85-8] • BBO = 2,5-bis (4-biphenylyl) oxazole [CAS 2083-09-2] 1. O / W emulsions

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RSWK-02011 O / W emulsions

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RSWK-02011 O / W emulsions

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RSWK-02011 2. Foam-shaped O / W emulsions:

RSWK-02011 further foam-like O / W emulsions:

RSWK-02011 further foam-like O / W emulsions:

Zur Herstellung des Schaums werden 80-97 Vol.-% der Emulsion I mit 3-20 Vol.-% eines geeigneten Gases (z.B. Propan/ Butan, Druckluft, Stickstoff) aufgeschäumt.RSWK-02011

To produce the foam, 80-97% by volume of emulsion I are foamed with 3-20% by volume of a suitable gas (for example propane / butane, compressed air, nitrogen).

RSWK-02011 3. Thin to sprayable W / O emulsions

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RSWK-02011 4. W / O emulsions (creams & lotions)

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RSWK-02011 5. Hydrodispersions (for use as a lotion or spray)

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RSWK-02011 6. Gel creams

RSWK-02011 7. Olgele

RSWK-02011 8. Solid stabilized emulsions

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RSWK-02011 9. Gels:

Example 1 (Eye Shadow Gel):% by weight

PEG-8 (polyethylene glycol 400) 2.00

Ethanol 5.00

Aristoflex AVC 1, 50

Glycerin 2.00

Panthenol 0.50

Tocopherol acetate 0.50

Timiron Splendid blue ® (Merck KgaA) 4.50

Chromium oxide green 1, 00

BBO 0.70

Perfume, preservative, NaOH, complexing agent,

Dyes, antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 2 (Hiqhliqhter Gel): wt.%

Carbomer 1, 50

Glycerin 2.50

1, 3 butylene glycol 2.50

Glitter pigments (e.g. Helicone HG Scarabeus, Wacker) 1, 00

EDTA 0.20

Dimethicone 1, 50

Tinopal CBS-X 0.67

Perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Dyes, antioxidants, etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 3 (Eve Liner Gel):% by weight pearlescent pigments 10.00 iron oxide 3.00 silica 2.00

RSWK-02011 Aristoflex AVC 1, 00 Hyroxyproylethyl Cellulose 0.35 Citric Acid qs Glycerin 5.00 PVP / VA Copolymer 2.00 Blankophor VPSP 20006 0.20 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, NaOH, complexing agents, antioxidants, etc. qs

Water ad 100.00

RSWK-02011 10. Makeup

Example 1 (emulsion make-up): wt.% PEG-30 stearate 2.00

Glycerol monostearate 1, 00

Stearic acid 1, 00

Cyclomethicone 7.00

Octyldodecanol 7.00 isopropyl lanolate 4.00

Squalane 2.00

Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00

Xanthan gum 0.20 glycerin 5.00

Butylene glycol 2.00

Vitamin E acetate 1.00

Magnesium silicate 1.00

Tinopal CBS-X 0.24 mica 1.00

Iron oxide 1.00

Titanium dioxide 2.50

Talc 5.00

EDTA 0.50 perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

RSWK-02011 Example 2 (emulsion make-up):% by weight of cyclomethicone and PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone (for example Dow Corning 3225 Formulation Aid) 10.00

Cyclomethicone 10.00 beeswax 3.00 polyglyceryl-4 oleate 2.00

Iron oxide 1.00

Titanium dioxide 2.50

BBO 0.32

Talc 12.00

Sodium chloride 2.00

Perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 3 (Cover Cream) wt%

Cyclomethicone 43.50

Beeswax 3.00

Carnauba wax 10.00

Lanolin oil 5.00

Paraffin oil 8.40

Cetyl alcohol 2.60

Iron oxide 3.00

Titanium dioxide 7.50

Blankophore VPSP 20006 0.50

Nylon 6.00

Talc 10.50

Perfume, preservatives, antioxidants etc. q.s.

RSWK-02011 Example 4 (emulsion make-up):% by weight cyclomethicone 18.00 phenyltrimethicone 3.00 cetyl PEG / PPG - 10/1 dimethi icon (e.g. Abil EM 90) 4.00 paraffin oil 3.00 iron oxide 2.30 titanium dioxide 4.50 Tinopal CBS-X 0.30 talc 2.00 sodium chloride 2.00 quaternium-18 hectorite 0.30 propylene carbonate 0.08 perfume, preservative, NaOH,

Antioxidants etc. q.s.

Water ad 100.00

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Claims

claims: 1. Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing biphenyl and / or its derivatives. 2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that the total amount of biphenyl and / or its derivatives is selected from the range from 0.001% by weight to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations. 3. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the 4, 4'-bis (2-sulfatylyl) bisphenyl disodium salt and / or one or more distearylbiphenyl derivatives are used as the biphenyl derivative. 4. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, wherein as the biphenyl derivative the 2,5-bis (4-biphenylyl) oxazole (BBO, CAS 2083-09-2, Lambdachrome® number LC 4150) and / or one or more distearylbiphenyl Derivatives are used. 5. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one self-tanning substance. 6. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least one substance which absorbs UV radiation in the UV-A and / or UV-B range. 7. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains inorganic pigments which serve as UV filter substances. 8. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is waterproof. RSWK-02011 9. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that biphenyl and / or its derivatives are present individually or encapsulated with one another. 5 10. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the biphenyl derivatives are selected from the group of photolabile biphenal derivatives. 11. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more substances which ensures a 10 light path extension and / or with which additional scattering and / or reflection centers are introduced into the formulation, which have the effects of biphenyl and / or support its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations on the skin. 15 12. Method for assessing the application rate of cosmetic and dermatological formulations for skin protection on the skin, characterized in that biphenyl and / or its derivatives, which are incorporated into a cosmetic preparation, are applied to the skin and on the basis of the visible effect - with or without assistance a contrast amplifier ~ estimates which one *? π areas of skin have already been applied and / or whether sufficient preparation has been applied and / or when reapplication has become necessary. 13, Use of biphenyl and / or its derivatives for the visualization of cosmetic and dermatological light spot formulations on the skin. RSWK-02011