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WO2005063193A1 - Ensemble combine et procede de traitement bioregeneratif de la peau - Google Patents

Ensemble combine et procede de traitement bioregeneratif de la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2005063193A1
WO2005063193A1 PCT/EP2004/014222 EP2004014222W WO2005063193A1 WO 2005063193 A1 WO2005063193 A1 WO 2005063193A1 EP 2004014222 W EP2004014222 W EP 2004014222W WO 2005063193 A1 WO2005063193 A1 WO 2005063193A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
skin
weight
emulsion
micro
composition
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
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PCT/EP2004/014222
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Wolfgang Barnikol
Alexander Teslenko
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SANGUIBIO TECH GmbH
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SANGUIBIO TECH GmbH
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Publication of WO2005063193A1 publication Critical patent/WO2005063193A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/981—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of mammals or bird
    • A61K8/983—Blood, e.g. plasma
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/06—Antipsoriatics
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/10—Anti-acne agents
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a combination set and to a method for bioregenerative treatment, in particular of human skin, by successively using a composition (1) for cleaning the skin, a composition (2) for conditioning (protective treatment) the skin, a micro- Emulsion (3) to influence the texture of the skin and a composition (4) in the form of a cream for protective post-treatment of the skin.
  • the individual compositions are coordinated so that the complexion can be effectively improved.
  • they can also be used to produce agents for dermatological / therapeutic treatment of the skin.
  • For this - as well as for cosmetic treatment - combination sets are suitable, which contain the 4 compositions in separate single packs.
  • the skin is the largest organ in humans. It closes off the organism from the outside world and also has other important functional properties; for example, the skin is a sensory organ in various ways. It is used for heat balance, mechanical and bacterial protection, the latter in the form of a low pH.
  • the regeneration time of the skin epithelium is about one month.
  • the outermost layer of the skin epithelium the stratum corneum (horny layer).
  • the horny layer has, in particular, a barrier function, for example with regard to the moisture, the pH value and the oxygen partial pressure.
  • the skin of humans ages, visible by increasing wrinkles, roughness, flakyness, flaccidity, wrinkling, brown age spots and thinness.
  • the flaccidity is a sign of a collagen deficiency and especially the collagen synthesis requires an adequate supply of oxygen.
  • the lack of oxygen supply is also a problem for aging skin.
  • the external supply of oxygen harbors the risk of toxification, since oxygen in itself is toxic in large quantities or in the case of gaseous application.
  • US Pat. No. 5,380,764 describes a composition of vitamins, glucose and hydrogen peroxide in the form of an O / W emulsion as a cream.
  • DE 100 31 741 A1 and 100 34 970 A1 describe gels or emulsions for the skin which have oxygen carriers such as hemoglobin or derivatives thereof. This is intended to improve the skin in the short term by supplying it with oxygen.
  • Products for the care, treatment and cleaning of dry and stressed skin such as gels, lotions, creams containing suitable active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients are known per se.
  • their contribution to the regeneration of a physiologically intact, hydrated and smooth horny layer is limited in terms of volume and time.
  • the effect of ointments and creams on the barrier function and hydration of the horny layer is essentially based on covering the skin. This leads to an artificial (second) barrier that is supposed to prevent water loss from the skin and negative environmental influences.
  • DE A 101 06 228 describes a process with a revitalizing active complex for the skin, consisting of keratin, glycogen and phospholipids as liposomal active substance carriers in an aqueous gel.
  • Fluorocarbons loaded with oxygen and hard magnetic particles in phospholipid particles can provide a better supply of oxygen to the skin.
  • liposomes or other macro particles cannot penetrate the skin and therefore the expected effects only on the skin. Surface can take place (Kirjavainen M., et al Liposome-skin interaction and their effects on the skin permeation of drugs // Eur. J. Pharmac. Sei. 1999, V.7, 279-286).
  • US Pat. No. 6,358,516 describes a method for cleaning and for therapeutic and cosmetic treatment of the skin by using an aqueous multifunctional active substance composition applied to a cosmetic cloth.
  • the aqueous solutions can only penetrate into the skin to a limited extent and the expected effects therefore only take place on the surface of the skin.
  • MicroEmulsions are said to have better, though not deep, penetration.
  • Micro-emulsions are macroscopically homogeneous, thermodynamically stable, biphase systems consisting of two immiscible liquids, which are used both for transport for medication and in cosmetics, whereby in the latter case there should be no systemic effect, cf. Bourrel M., et al. Microemulsions and related systems: formulation, solvency and physical properties. Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, 1988 or Dormsch A .: The Cosmetic Preparations Volume II. Publishing House for Former Industry, H. Ziokowsky KG, Ausburg, 1992).
  • WO 98/15254 discloses W / O micro-emulsion gels for various cosmetic preparations such as lotion, shower lotion, deodorant spray and others which contain crosslinkers such as dimethicone copolyols.
  • EP A 1 092 414 describe microemulsions for dyeing hair or as UV protection, which surfactants have HLB from 12 to 16 or temperature-dependent lipophilic emulsifiers , US Pat. No.
  • 5,389,607 describes alcohol-free micro-emulsions which have a polyglycerol, phosphate ester and a PEG-based surfactant. All of these examples show that although previous products were intended to have an effect on the surface of the skin, as mentioned, individual components of the agents used can simultaneously trigger opposite effects. Furthermore, it is apparently not possible to penetrate deep enough, and the supply of oxygen to the skin is inadequate. In addition, there is a risk of a corneolytic effect with micro-emulsions.
  • the aim of the present invention was to overcome the disadvantages described and to provide a method and means for this, with which bioregeneration of the skin is possible.
  • Good transport of active ingredients i. H. good penetration and permeation of desired substances into the skin up to the vital cells of the stratum germinativum.
  • negative effects of ingredients such as emulsifiers or surfactants, which are generally contained in skin treatment products, or which result from products themselves, are to be avoided.
  • the supply of oxygen to the skin is avoided while avoiding toxic effects by oxygen, the barrier function and the hydration of the horny layer are positively influenced, the natural biochemical processes in the skin (support of cell activity and the biosynthesis of structural polymers of the skin, such as Collagen, elastin, glucosaminoglucans) are supported and the physicochemical properties of the horny layer and in particular the lamellae of intercellular lipids (ceramides or ceramide analogues) are strengthened or restored.
  • Another purpose of the invention is to use such means and methods, in particular degenerative skin damaged or altered by external or immunological influences, to further effectively treat the damage associated with endogenous, chronological and exogenous skin aging both cosmetically and dermatologically / pharmaceutically or their prophylaxis without causing any risk of side effects.
  • Cleaning with composition (1) removes both dirt from the environment and residues of cosmetic (decorative) preparations (powder, make-up, cream or films) from the skin, and in preparation for the next step, the hydro-lipid -Coat of the skin loosened.
  • step 2 skin conditioning, skin prevention
  • the skin is further prepared for use in step 3.
  • a "skin opening" is carried out using a micro-emulsion (3) in order to penetrate the skin and keratinoplastic properties of the micro-emulsion to "transport” the active substances into the stratum corneum (locks).
  • step 4 the skin is "closed” again by treatment with a build-up cream (4).
  • This is particularly suitable for protecting the skin against negative influences of the micro-emulsion and for supporting skin regeneration, in particular through regeneration of the lipid double layer (by means of lipid components), regeneration of the hydro-lipid coat, support of the water content of the skin, protective film formation, support of collagen and glucosamine glucan synthesis and antioxidative properties.
  • the skin of mammals especially the Humans, can be treated cosmetically, dermatologically or even with pharmaceutical medicine.
  • the skin of mammals in particular humans, can be treated.
  • a composition (1) is selected containing 0.1 to 40% surfactants, 1 to 20% of one or more mono- or polyhydric alcohols and 0 to 30% active ingredients, 0 to 20% additives and the balance water.
  • a composition (2) containing 1 to 15% of one or more mono- or polyhydric alcohols, 0 to 30%, preferably 0.1 to 30% of one or more active ingredients, 0 to 20%, preferably 0.1, is used for the conditioning up to 20%, additives and the rest water.
  • active ingredients are selected here from keratinoplastic agents, antioxidative substances, anti-inflammatory substances, metabolically active substances, humectants, vitamins or their mixtures. These active ingredients are explained in more detail below.
  • pH regulators, diffusion enhancers, gel formers or combinations thereof are possible as additives. These are explained in more detail below.
  • a W / O micro-emulsion with binary phase and active substance differentiability which is free of crosslinking agents and 45 to 90% by weight of a liquid oil phase, 5 to 40% by weight of a mixture of one or more, is chosen in particular as composition (3) W / O and one or more O / W emulsifiers in a ratio of 1: 4 to 1: 1, 2; 0.01 to 20% by weight of one or more co-emulsifiers; 0 to 15% by weight of one or more mono- or dihydric C-i-alcohols; 1 to 10% by weight of water, 0 to 30% of active ingredients (preferably 0.001 to 30%, in particular 0.001 to 20%) and 0 to 20%, preferably 0.1 to 20% of additives.
  • the micelles of this primary microemulsion have a particle size of 20 to 400 nm, the emulsion being converted into a secondary W / O microemulsion by reaction with a water phase or being convertible into an O / W microemulsion. Accordingly, a secondary W / O or O / W micro-emulsion obtained from this primary micro-emulsion with ingredients as described by reaction with water can also be selected for (3).
  • the composition (3) preferably contains 0.1 to 15%, in particular 0.1 to 10% alcohol.
  • active ingredients with the following effects are used here: oxygen-supplying (oxygen carriers), kerafinoplastic (keratin-releasing), antioxidative, anti-inflammatory agents, astringents, metabolically active agents, substances, vitamins and humectants or mixtures thereof. Diffusion promoters and pH regulators and electrolytes are particularly suitable additives.
  • the micro-emulsion which in addition to an oil and a water phase has a system of W / O and O / W emulsifiers together with certain co-emulsifiers and possibly lower alcohols, can be used simultaneously water-soluble as well as fat-soluble active ingredients are incorporated without causing instability.
  • a composition (4) which contains 0.5 to 70% fat phase, 0.5 to 40%, in particular 1 to 40%, preferably 5 to 40 and very particularly 5 to 30% of one or more Emulsifiers, 0.01 to 20% by weight co-emulsifiers, 0 to 20%, preferably 0.1 to 20%, in particular 1 to 15% additives, 0 to 30%, in particular 0.1 to 30, and especially 0, 1 to 10% by weight of active ingredients and the rest water.
  • the active ingredients here are preferably selected from astringents, emollients, antioxidative, anti-inflammatory, metabolically active substances, humectants, vitamins or mixtures thereof.
  • emulsifier (s) used in compositions (3) and (4) are selected from the group of nonionic O / W emulsifiers with HLB value> 8, W / O emulsifiers with HLB value of are particularly preferred ⁇ 8, and the fat phase comprises suitable components selected from synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils.
  • products (1), (2), (3) and (4) which preferably contain 0.1 to 25% additives selected from the groups of preservatives, gelling agents, electrolytes, buffers, diffusion enhancers and chelating agents ,
  • a preferred embodiment comprises combination sets, in which with microemulsions (3) and composition (4), 0.001 to 30% by weight or 0.1 to 30% by weight of one or more water-soluble or fat-soluble active ingredients or mixtures of water- and fat-soluble Contain active ingredients and / or additionally 0.1 to 20% by weight of additives.
  • micro-emulsion (3) 50 to 80% by weight of an oil phase, 5 to 40% by weight of a mixture of one or more W / O and one or more O / W emulsifiers; 0.1 to 10% by weight of one or more lecithins, phosphatidylcholines and derivatives or mixtures thereof as co-emulsifiers; 0 to 10 wt.%, Especially 1 -10%, of one or more mono- or dihydric C-8 alcohols and 1 to 10 wt.% Water or aqueous solutions having. Secondary O / W or W / O micro-emulsions obtained from this by reaction with water are also particularly preferred.
  • micro-emulsion (3) biological oxygen carriers selected from native, modified or unmodified hemoglobin or mixtures thereof, in particular native porcine hemoglobin, in a total amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 10 % By weight administrat
  • this micro-emulsion (3), which contains oxygen carriers furthermore has antioxidants, in particular selected from glutathione, superoxide dismutase, melatonin, flavonoids, glucose and amino acids, protein hydrolysates, mono- and oligosaccharides, polysaccharides, metabolically active substances or Mixtures of these.
  • micro-emulsions (3) are used with the products (1) and (2) and a composition (4) which as active ingredients are antioxidants, in particular selected from: glutathione, superoxide dismutase, melatonin, Flavonoids, as well as amino acids, glucose or mixtures thereof.
  • antioxidants in particular selected from: glutathione, superoxide dismutase, melatonin, Flavonoids, as well as amino acids, glucose or mixtures thereof.
  • composition (1) containing 1 to 20% by weight of surfactants, 1 to 10% alcohol, water, 0.1 to 20% additives / active substances;
  • Composition (2) water, alcohol as indicated, 0.1 to 20% additives, 0.1 to 10% by weight »active substances, selected from trimethylglycine, chito-oligosaccharides, and chitosan;
  • Composition (3) containing oil, water, emulsifier, co-emulsifiers, 0.1 to 15% alcohol, additives, oxygen carriers as described above and composition (4) containing 40 to 55% water, 20 to 35% fats, 4 to 10% emulsifiers / co-emulsifiers, additives as indicated and 1 to 10% active ingredients, selected from antioxidants, amino acids, mono- and oligosaccharides or mixtures thereof.
  • the alcohols used in the above compositions are selected from short-chain and long-chain alcohols (ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, octanol) and glycols (Propylene glycol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol). Ethanol, propanol, 1,2-octanediol, propylene glycol, alone or in a mixture, are particularly preferred. Ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. The quantities given relate to% by weight, unless stated otherwise.
  • aqueous compositions are selected in the form of facial tonic or cleansing gels, the latter being preferred.
  • surfactants in particular in an amount of 0.1% to 40%, preferably 1 to 30% and in particular 2 to 20%, 0-20%, in particular 0.1 to 20% of additives, and 0-30%, preferably 0.1 to 15% active ingredients and 1 to 20%, in particular 1 to 15% alcohol.
  • Preferred additives are gel formers, in particular Carbopol or Hispagel (Cognis), acidic buffer solutions and one or more metabolically active substances, such as amino acids, peptides and protein hydrolyzates, furthermore emollients, moisturizers, one or more additives, anti-inflammatory, ( possibly bactericidal), keratin-dissolving substances or mixtures thereof, as described below.
  • Anionic surfactants such as ether carboxylic acids, sarcosides, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl amide ether sulfates, alkyl taurides; Amide ether sulfates, sulfonic succinic acid esters and their salts, for example disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, fatty acid sarcosinates, alkyl amino acid and their salts, for example monoethanolamine lauryl sulfates and triethanolamine lauryl sulfates.
  • Ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate are particularly preferred; Magnesium lauryl 8 sulfate and sodium oleyl sulfate.
  • amphoteric surfactants such as alkylglycinates, alkylaminopropionates, amine oxides or polyamphoteric protein surfactants such as hydrolyzed collagen, for example lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed Collagenic, hydrolyzed wheat protein, e.g.
  • teas such as amphoacetates, e.g. sodium lauramphoacetate or sodium cocoamphoacetate , Alkylimidazolium-Beta ⁇ ne, Amidoalkyl-Beta ⁇ ne, such as Cocamidopropylbeta ⁇ n, Capryl / Capramidopropyl-Beta ⁇ n, Ricinolamidopropyl-Beta ⁇ n and Fettaminooxid.
  • the cleaning composition (1) is prepared by successively stirring anionic, amphoteric surfactants and alcohols into the aqueous gel.
  • the second treatment step serves to prevent, protect and prepare the skin for the next step, since both water alone and surfactants can dissolve the hydro-lipid coat and the lipids of the skin.
  • the emulsifiers typically present in micro-emulsions can also lead to loosening of the lipid layer of the stratum corneum, with the result of skin drying out or even irritation.
  • the special composition (2) is formulated in such a way that in particular protective properties are achieved and a subsequent desired penetration is nevertheless possible.
  • compositions containing, in addition to water, preferably 0.1 to 30%> of one or more active ingredients, selected from moisturizers, metabolically active substances (in particular amino acids, peptides, protein hydrolysates), betaines, aromatic acids, keratinoplastic substances (especially alpha-hydroxy acids), astringents and anti-inflammatory substances. Buffer solutions, diffusion promoters and gel formers are particularly suitable as additives.
  • the composition (2) is prepared by the active ingredients and additives in the aqueous, possibly gel-like basis, for. b, Chitosan gel dissolves and, if necessary, adjusts the pH to the desired value.
  • this W / O micro-emulsion in particular has one or more emulsifiers, one or more co-emulsifiers, and active ingredients and additives.
  • the active compounds are very particularly preferably selected from one or more oxygen carriers, one or more antioxidants, one or more vitamins and provitamins, one or more essential oils, one or more metabolically active dermatics or pharmaceuticals.
  • Additives are selected in particular from diffusion enhancers, one or more inorganic salts, one or more chelating agents. Possibly. hormones and their derivatives can also be contained here as active ingredients.
  • the oil components for the composition (3) are liquid oils, in particular: esters from alkane carboxylic acids and from alcohols, pharmaceutically acceptable oils, saturated or unsaturated long-chain fatty acids of animal and vegetable origin, triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated alkane carboxylic acids, dialkyl ethers and alcohols, non-volatile hydrocarbons, Paraffin oil, squalene, jojoba oil, squalane, ethoxylated triglycerides or fatty alcohols with 6 - 18 carbon atoms in a straight chain, advantageously selected from: isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl stearate , Isononyl stearate, isononyl isonanoate, 2-ethylhex
  • Saturated or unsaturated long-chain fatty acids of animal and vegetable origin can also be selected, in particular oleic, palmitic or oleic acid, essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic and ⁇ -linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid and their derivatives, and also borage oil, evening primrose oil being particularly advantageous , Rosehip oil, pink ruby rose, centella and inophyllum.
  • the liquid oil phase can be selected from the group of the dialkyl ethers, the group of alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, particularly the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated ones Alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18, carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the following groups: synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, almond oil, avocado oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.
  • PEG-7 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride or PEG-8 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride are advantageously chosen as ethoxylated triglycerides.
  • oils and ester oils can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the following can advantageously be selected from the group of fatty alcohols having 6-20 carbon atoms in straight chains: lauryl, palmityl, myristyl, arachidyl, linoleyl and linolyl alcohols.
  • the emulsifiers for the composition (3) are preferably selected from nonionic emulsifiers of the O / W type (HLB value 8 to 18, preferably 9 to
  • ethoxylated fatty alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in straight chains, especially polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2),
  • the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of
  • Sorbitan derivatives especially sorbitan monolaurate and sorbitan trioleate.
  • the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of ethoxylated sorbitan derivatives, in particular polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate.
  • the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of
  • Glyceryl ethers of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids in particular of mono-, di-, tri-glycerol and polyglyceryl derivatives, including polyglyceryl diisostearates, polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether, polyglyceryl-6-distate, polyglyceryl-4-oleyl ether.
  • the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of ethoxylated glyceryl esters.
  • Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl tristearate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated triglycerides.
  • the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of ethoxylated alkyl ethers.
  • the emulsifiers are advantageously selected from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol dodecyl ether (Brij30) and polyethylene glycol hexadecyl ether (Brij52).
  • the emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of fatty alcohol (C16-C18) glucosides, in particular sucrose stearate, sucrose palmitate, Plantacare 1200 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP (Cognis).
  • the amount of nonionic emulsifiers (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 5 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably 5 to 35% by weight, in particular 10 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the co-emulsifiers of composition (3) are advantageously selected from the groups of phospholipids and ceramides (such as ceramide-6 and ceramide-3 or prostaglandins).
  • lecithin from plants include lecithin from plants (soybeans, rapeseed, cottonseed) and egg yolk;
  • Phosphatidylcholine from soy and egg yolk Phosphatidylcholine from soy and egg yolk, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylinositol from soybean, rapeseed, cottonseed and hydroxylated lecithin.
  • the co-emulsifiers are advantageously selected from the group: lecithin from soy and egg yolk, e.g. under the trade names
  • Phospholipon 25 NAT-8539 (Nattermann).
  • the amount of co-emulsifiers, especially phospholipids (one or more
  • Compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, in particular 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Alcohols may be included. These are selected from short-chain and long-chain alcohols (ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, octanol) and glycols (propylene glycol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol). Especially ethanol, propanol, 1,2-octanediol, propylene glycol, alone or in a mixture, are preferred.
  • the amount of alcohol (s) is particularly preferably 1 to 20% by weight.
  • the W / O micro-emulsions are produced by adding an oil phase containing emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers, active substances and additives with water or aqueous phase, containing water-soluble additives, at room temperature, optionally up to 40 ° C., depending on Ingredients, preferably mixed at RT and stirred until a clear, transparent and homogeneous micro-emulsion is formed. They can be converted into another W / O or O / W micro-emulsion by adding water or an aqueous phase. An aqueous phase containing hemoglobin can also be used.
  • a build-up cream (W / O or O / W type) is preferably used. It contains a fat phase and a water phase, emulsifiers of the desired type and in particular additives and active substances, which are used primarily for collagen synthesis, as well as UV filters, vitamins and optionally other active substances and additives.
  • oils and / or waxes described above for composition (3) such as volatile hydrocarbons, e.g. B. beeswax,
  • Paraffin oil Paraffin oil, jojoba oil, squalene, squalane and shea butter and / or phospholipids, such as lecithin from plants (soya, rapeseed, cottonseed) and egg yolk,
  • Phosphatidylserine phosphatidylinositol from soybean, rapeseed, cottonseed, hydroxylated lecithin, and / or sterols such as cholesterol and cholesterol
  • Soyasterol can be used.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are those previously described for composition (3).
  • Co-emulsifiers can optionally be selected from long-chain (C12-C20) alcohols such as stearyl alcohol, tetradecanol, myristyl alcohol and from C12-C18-
  • active substances are metabolically active substances (such as proteins, amino acids, protein hydrolyzates), one or more emmolients, one or more antioxidants, one or more humectants (NMF), one or more vitamins, one or more UV filters, one or several astringents, one or more amino saccharides (glucosamine, oligosaccharides), one or more biological acids (e.g. ⁇ -lipoic acid), one or more, one or more herbal extracts, one or more hormones / hormone derivatives used.
  • metabolically active substances such as proteins, amino acids, protein hydrolyzates
  • one or more emmolients such as proteins, amino acids, protein hydrolyzates
  • one or more emmolients such as antioxidants, one or more humectants (NMF)
  • NMF humectants
  • Possible additives are in particular: one or more buffer substances, one or more chelating substances, one or more alcohols, one or more polyols, one or more gelling agents and preservatives. Such products are manufactured in a manner known to those skilled in the art.
  • bleaching agents can also be used as active ingredients for compositions (3) and (4).
  • the active ingredients contained or optionally contained in the compositions (1) to (4) are selected from the following groups. They are in amounts from 0.1 to 30%, preferably from 0.1 to 20%, in particular from 0.1 to 10% or also 0.1 to 5%, based on the total weight, and depending on the substance in the Individual or total quantities known to those skilled in the art are present. They can be water-soluble or lipophilic and can therefore be incorporated in the existing phases.
  • Milk products such as Lactofil Moist, Lactofil Sensitive ("Gattefosse”); amino acids and peptides, such as glycine, beta ⁇ n, thyrosine, arginine, ornithine; protein hydrolysates, such as collagen hydrolysates; elastin hydrolysates, partial hydrolysates made of keratin; silk protein Hydrolysates, yeast hydrolysates, wheat protein hydrolysates; proteins such as collagen, fibrin, elastin, saccharides such as glucose, fructose, mannose, mannitol, inositol, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, D-glucosamine, oligosaccharides, chito-oligosaccharides, trehalose
  • the saccharides and oligosaccharides are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of glucose, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, chito-oligo
  • Vitamins Ubiquinone and its derivatives, tocopherol and its derivatives, e.g. Vitamin E acetate, vitamin A and its derivatives, e.g. Vitamin A palmitate, vitamin B complex, niacin, vitamin H and derivatives, pantothenic acid and panthenol, vitamin C and derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin D and derivatives and vitamin K and derivatives.
  • Vitamins Ubiquinone and its derivatives, tocopherol and its derivatives, e.g. Vitamin E acetate, vitamin A and its derivatives, e.g. Vitamin A palmitate, vitamin B complex, niacin, vitamin H and derivatives, pantothenic acid and panthenol, vitamin C and derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate, vitamin D and derivatives and vitamin K and derivatives.
  • Tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, ubiquinone Q10 and vitamin C are particularly advantageous.
  • the NMF are advantageously selected from the group: glycerol, urea sorbitol, Allanto ⁇ n, PCA-Na, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, aloe vera extract.
  • Oxygen carrier organic and inorganic peroxides, e.g. Hemoglobin and derivatives, hydrogen peroxide, benzoyl peroxide.
  • natural and artificial oxygen carriers such as hemoglobin and modifications.
  • These include cross-linked, polymerized, pegylated artificial oxygen carriers based on hemoglobiin and those obtained by combining one or all of these modifications.
  • Crosslinked (intramolecular), polymerized and pegylated oxygen carriers are preferred, in particular as described in DE 197 01 03 A1, US Pat. No. 4,179,337; Describe US A 5,312,808, WO97 / 15313, EP 97100790 and in particular DE 100 31 744 A1, DE 100 31 742 A1, DE 100 31 740 A1.
  • the methods are known and are incorporated herein.
  • the hemoglobins can be derived from humans, cattle, sheep, horses, pigs, and those from pigs are particularly suitable. Native hemoglobin from porcine erythrocytes is particularly preferred.
  • Bleaching agents chemical and natural bleaching agents, e.g. Hydroquinones, kojacic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid, lemon and cucumber juice, in particular hydroquinones, kojacic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid.
  • Herbal extracts Meristem extract, aloe vera, echinacea, witch hazel extract, asparagus extract, Niembaum, polyplant micro-emulsion, horse chestnut, red vine leaves, arnica, calendula, ivy, chamomile, nettle, horsetail; especially meristem extract, aloe vera, echinacea, ivy, nettle, chamomile, horsetail.
  • Essential oils such as monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, esters, monoterpene alcohols, sesquiterpene alcohols, phenylpropanes, phenols, lactones, ketones, aldehydes, in particular clove oil, thyme oil, mint oil, citrus oil, pine, lavender oil, ylang Ylang, chamomile, ravensara, hyssop, niaouli, anise, patchouli, incense, yarrow, thuja, birch oil, lemon balm and eucalyptus.
  • Hormones and derivatives hydrocortisone and its derivatives, melatonin, glycyrrhetic acid and its derivatives and other herbal hormones. Melatonin and glycyrrhetinic acid are particularly preferred.
  • Anti-inflammatory (anti-irritant) substances bisabolol, panthenol, glycyrrhetic acid and its derivatives, hydrocortisone-17-valerate and its derivatives, chamomile extract
  • Antihistamines anti-inflammatory drugs, antibiotics, antifungals, antivirals, active substances that promote blood circulation, keratolytics, hormones, steroids.
  • Keratin-dissolving (keratinoplastic) active ingredients :
  • Urea, salicylic acid, AHA acids such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, Dead Sea salt.
  • Aromatic acids salicylic acid, benzoic acid
  • Beta ⁇ ne trimethylglycine
  • gelling agent :
  • Polysaccharides chitosan, hyaluronic acid, heparin, dextran, cellulose esters, gel formers based on polyacrylic acid, such as Carbopol and Hispagel (Cognis) and or alginic acid. Chitosan, Carbopol and in particular Pemulen (Goodrich) are particularly advantageously selected.
  • the amount of the polysaccharides or polyacrylates (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preservatives are particularly advantageously selected from the group: salicylic acid and phenoxyethanol.
  • Salts with the following anions chloride, sulfate, carbonate, phosphate.
  • Electrolytes based on organic anions can also be used advantageously, for example lactates, acetates, benzoates, salicylates, propionates, tartrates, citrates and others.
  • Potassium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Salt mixtures such as those found in natural Dead Sea salt are also advantageous.
  • Ammonium, alkylammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron and zinc ions are preferably used as the cations of the salts.
  • Sodium lactate, lactic acid and ammonium citrate solution come into consideration as constituents of acidic buffer solutions, otherwise agents known to the skilled worker for this purpose.
  • pH regulators UV filters, acids and bases or substances known to those skilled in the art (e.g. TiOa).
  • the 4 products (1) to (4) to be used according to the invention can be used as follows:
  • composition (1) remove after about 2 minutes with lukewarm water
  • composition (2) "Conditioning" with composition (2), remove after about 5 minutes with lukewarm water
  • Micro-emulsion with hemoglobin is incorporated (massaged into the skin).
  • the skin can then advantageously be gassed with oxygen (O 2 ) (this treatment takes place in a cosmetic booth) or it is left in air for 2-3 hours, after which it is easily removed with water ;
  • the treatment can be carried out once, twice or 3 times a week. It is carried out in the form of a cure between 4 and 8 weeks, especially between 5 and 7 weeks. The cures should be carried out about twice a year.
  • This procedure can be used to treat cosmetically aged or pitted skin, cellulite, as well as acne and couperose. Inflammable and degenerated skin can be treated equally, for example in diabetes mellitus, neurodermatitis or psoriasis, as well as seborrheic and sebostatic (dry) skin. Scaled skin (eg due to fungal infections), virus infections (eg herpes) and bacterially infected skin (eg acne), exogenously produced allergies and other irritations are also suitable for treatment. Particularly preferred are the treatment of aged, pitted, inflamed, dry, degenerated and, above all, cellulite skin. Depending on the application, a cosmetic or dermatological / therapeutic treatment can also be present.
  • composition (2) of "conditioning" The composition (2) of "conditioning"
  • compositions (1) to (4) or (5) are advantageously packaged separately in a manner known to the person skilled in the art and then packed together in a combination set, each with suitable quantities / sizes.
  • the surface of the skin was examined before and after (1 week after the last
  • Fig. 1 shows in the upper part of the picture the back of both hands 6 days after the treatment in comparison: The left back of the hand is much smoother than the right.
  • FIG. 2 shows in the lower part of the picture both backs of the hands after a further 6 days (in total after 21 days). First, you can see that the back of the left hand has remained smooth and, second, you can see that the right back of the hand is as smooth as the left. The treatment was carried out as described in Example 8.
  • Conditioning apply about 3 ml of the conditioner according to example 2, recipe 2, wait about 5 minutes, then remove with lukewarm water;
  • Example of use 9 Treatment sequence for the face with hemoglobin without oxygen fumigation as described in Example 8 with the exception that the oxygen fumigation is omitted.
  • Example of use 10 Treatment sequence for the face without hemoglobin and with gassing with oxygen: The treatment sequence is as in Example 8, except that the micro-emulsion (“silver”, according to Example 3, recipe 1) is used.
  • Example of use 11 Treatment procedure for the face without hemoglobin and without gassing with oxygen: the treatment procedure is as in example 9, but another special micro-emulsion (“silver”, example 3, formulation 1) is used.
  • hemoglobin solution is an 8% dilution of pork hemoglobin in physical saline (0.9%) which is carbonylated. It also contains 0.1% to 0.3% phenoxyethanol and 0.01% to 0.15% N-acetyl-cysteine. When used, this hemoglobin solution is mixed in a ratio of 1: 2 with the micro-emulsion "gold" (1 part hemoglobin solution and 2 parts micro-emulsion).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un ensemble combiné et un procédé de traitement biorégénératif de la peau, notamment de la peau humaine. Ce procédé consiste à utiliser successivement une composition (1) pour nettoyer la peau, une composition (2) pour conditionner (traitement de protection) la peau, une micro-émulsion (3) pour modifier la qualité de la peau et une composition (4) se présentant sous forme d'une crème pour offrir un post-traitement protecteur de la peau. Les compositions individuelles sont coordonnées les unes aux autres de manière à pouvoir améliorer efficacement l'aspect de la peau. En fonction des substances actives, elles peuvent également être utilisées pour produire des agents de traitement dermatologique/thérapeutique de la peau. A cette fin, mais également pour un traitement cosmétique, des ensembles combinés contenant les 4 compositions dans des emballages individuels séparés sont adaptés.
PCT/EP2004/014222 2003-12-22 2004-12-14 Ensemble combine et procede de traitement bioregeneratif de la peau Ceased WO2005063193A1 (fr)

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DE10360503A DE10360503A1 (de) 2003-12-22 2003-12-22 Kombinations- Set und Verfahren zur bioregenerativen Behandlung von Haut

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US8709003B2 (en) 2003-02-25 2014-04-29 Tria Beauty, Inc. Capacitive sensing method and device for detecting skin
US8777935B2 (en) 2004-02-25 2014-07-15 Tria Beauty, Inc. Optical sensor and method for identifying the presence of skin
US9687671B2 (en) 2008-04-25 2017-06-27 Channel Investments, Llc Optical sensor and method for identifying the presence of skin and the pigmentation of skin
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US8709003B2 (en) 2003-02-25 2014-04-29 Tria Beauty, Inc. Capacitive sensing method and device for detecting skin
US10342618B2 (en) 2003-02-25 2019-07-09 Channel Investments, Llc Self-contained, eye-safe hair-regrowth-inhibition apparatus and method
US10342617B2 (en) 2003-02-25 2019-07-09 Channel Investments, Llc Phototherapy device thermal control apparatus and method
US8777935B2 (en) 2004-02-25 2014-07-15 Tria Beauty, Inc. Optical sensor and method for identifying the presence of skin
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US9687671B2 (en) 2008-04-25 2017-06-27 Channel Investments, Llc Optical sensor and method for identifying the presence of skin and the pigmentation of skin

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