WO2004052332A1 - Cleansing preparations containing fatty acid salts - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to compositions containing fatty acid salts, said compositions significantly improving the condition of the skin, especially reducing the roughness of the skin. The inventive compositions are characterised in that they have a selective cleansing action.

Description

 CLEANING PREPARATIONS CONTAINING FATTY ACID SALTS

description

The present invention relates to the use of fatty acid salts to achieve or increase the selectivity of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations.

When the skin is cleaned with the help of a simple water bath - without the addition of surfactants - the horny layer of the skin swells. The degree of this swelling depends on a. on the duration of the bath and its temperature. At the same time, water-soluble substances are washed off or washed out, e.g. B. water-soluble dirt components, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water retention capacity of the horny layer. Skin oils (surface and barrier lipids) are also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent by the skin's own surface-active substances.

While the joint removal of surface dirt and surface lipids, which originate primarily from the sebaceous glands and are largely responsible for the appearance of oily skin, is cosmetically desirable, washing out the barrier lipids can disrupt the function of the skin barrier, which is associated with a loss of moisture in the skin , This is accompanied by a temporary increase in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and a temporary decrease in skin moisture. Especially in the case of products for cleaning the sensitive facial skin and especially in the case of products for oily skin, the most selective removal of surface dirt, make-up and skin sebum is particularly important for the consumer. On the other hand, the facial skin in particular needs particularly gentle cleaning.

In the case of healthy skin, the disorders caused by washing are generally limited in time, since the protective mechanisms of the skin prevent such mild disorders from occurring can easily compensate the upper skin layers. But already in the case of non-pathological deviations from normal status - e.g. B. by environmental wear and tear or irritation, light damage, aging skin, etc. - the protective mechanism of the skin surface is disturbed. Under certain circumstances, he may no longer be able to fulfill his task on his own and must be regenerated by external measures. There has been no shortage of attempts to find suitable cleaning preparations for better or faster regeneration of the skin, which help the skin to maintain its natural balance.

Known agents for cleaning and simultaneous care of the skin are e.g. B. oil-containing cleaning preparations or cleaning preparations with different moisturizers or skin moisturized, which are to re-grease or moisturize the skin during cleaning. For this purpose, the prior art knows, for example, various types of oil bath preparations, shower oils, cleaning creams and the like.

The main disadvantage of such preparations is that part of the barrier lipids is first removed and the skin is then regreased with the help of the added oil components. In addition, cleaning preparations of this type are washed off after use, so that only small amounts of the additives used remain on the skin.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic or dermatological preparations which significantly improve the condition of the skin, in particular reduce the roughness of the skin and which are distinguished by a selectivity of the cleaning performance.

It was surprising and in no way predictable for the person skilled in the art that the use of one or more surface-active substances, selected from the group of the fatty acid salts, to achieve or increase the selectivity of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations would eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art.

Selective cleaning preparations in the sense of the present invention wash out significantly more surface or sebum lipids than barrier lipids. So you determine the ratio of washed-out surface or sebum lipids to washed-out barrier lipids, this is significantly greater than 1 for preparations containing fatty acid salts used according to the invention (which are also referred to as "soaps"). According to the invention, the selectivity of a cleaning preparation can be increased, for example In comparison to water, products can be formulated which remove dirt and excess sebum (or in general the "surface dirt" on the skin) with high selectivity and thereby protect the skin's own lipids, which are used to prevent dehydration of the skin are essential.

When the fatty acid salts are used advantageously according to the invention, the content of one or more fatty acid salts is advantageously from 1.0 to 50% by weight and preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the formulation.

The soaps according to the invention are formed from the corresponding fatty acids by reaction with bases. The fatty acids lauric acid (dodecanecarboxylic acid), myristic acid (tetradecanecarboxylic acid), palmitic acid (hexadecanecarboxylic acid), stearic acid (octadecanecarboxylic acid) are advantageous according to the invention. According to the invention, one or more fatty acid salts are preferably selected from the group of the lauric, myristic and / or stearic acid salts. Bases preferred according to the invention are, for example, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and / or triethanolamine.

It is also preferred according to the invention to use the sodium, potassium and / or triethanolammonium salts of the fatty acids according to the invention.

According to the invention, advantageous preparations in which fatty acid salts are used according to the invention can contain one or more further surface-active compounds, in particular surfactants.

The cleaning preparations within the meaning of the present invention advantageously contain one or more detergent surfactants from the following four groups A to D:

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously Acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,

2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen,

3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,

4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,

2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate, 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts such as DEA-Oleth-10 phosphate and Dilureth-4 phosphate,

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

1. acyl isethionates, e.g. Sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,

2. alkylarylsulfonates,

3. alkylsulfonates, for example sodium, sodium C _12-14 olefin - sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C ₁₂ .1 ₃ pareth sulfate,

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate. B. Cationic surfactants

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

1. alkylamines,

2. alkylimidazoles, 3. ethoxylated amines and 4. quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one N atom that is covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups. Regardless of the pH value, this leads to a positive charge. Benzalkonium chloride, alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultain are advantageous.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

1. acyl-dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

3. N-alkyl or N-alkenyl betaines with at least 12 carbon atoms, such as. B. lauryl amidopropyl betaine and oleyl amidopropyl betaine

D. Non-ionic surfactants

Nonionic surfactants to be used advantageously are I. alcohols,

2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,

3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,

4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols, 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated Triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside. 6. sucrose esters, ether

7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters

8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

The cleaning preparations within the meaning of the present invention particularly advantageously contain one or more wash-active surfactants according to the invention from the group of surfactants which have an HLB value of more than 25, very particularly those which have an HLB value of more than 35.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the content of one or more detergent surfactants in the cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparation is in the range from 2.0 to 25% by weight, very particularly advantageously from 2.5 to 15% by weight. % is selected, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

It is preferred according to the invention if an alkyl ether sulfate or a monoalkyl phosphate is used as further surface-active compounds.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparations in which the fatty acid salts are used according to the invention contain one or more gel formers. Gel formers from the group of polyacrylates and / or acrylate copolymers are preferred according to the invention.

With preparations according to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more polyacrylates in a total concentration of 0.3 to 5.0% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 1.0 to 2.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation ,

deren Molgewicht zwischen ca. 400 000 und mehr als 4 000 000 betragen kann. In die Gruppe der Polyacrylate gehören ferner Acrylat-Alkylacrylat-Copolymere, beispielsweise solche, die sich durch die folgende Struktur auszeichnen:Polyacrylates which are advantageous according to the invention are polymers of acrylic acid, in particular those selected from the group of the so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company). Polyacrylates are compounds of the general structural formula

whose molecular weight can be between approximately 400,000 and more than 4,000,000. The group of polyacrylates also includes acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, for example those which are distinguished by the following structure:

R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y numbers which symbolize the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective comonomers. These polyacrylates are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageous carbopoles are, for example, types 907, 910, 934, 940, 941, 951, 954, 980, 981, 1342, 1382, 2984 and 5984 or types ETD (Easy-to-disperse) 2001, 2020, 2050, where these compounds can be present individually or in any combination with one another.

Carbopol 981, 1382 and ETD 2020 (both individually and in combination) are particularly preferred.

Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are the copolymers of CIO- ₃₀ alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are comparable to the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers. The INCI names for such compounds are, for example, “Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer” or “Acrylates Copolymer”. Particularly advantageous are those available under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 and Carbopol Aqua-SF 1 polymer from NOVEON. According to the invention, it is advantageous to choose one or more polyacrylates from the group of acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers.

According to the invention, it is preferred to use a combination of polyacrylates and cellulose derivatives as the polymeric thickener.

The preparation according to the invention advantageously contains the cellulose derivatives in a total concentration of 0.1 to 1.0% by weight, preferably in a total concentration of 0.2 to 0.5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.

Preferred cellulose derivatives in the sense of the present invention are hydroxyalkyl celluloses. It is particularly preferred if one or more hydroxyalkyl celluloses are selected, such as. B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

For the purposes of the present invention, preference is also given to xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also known as xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2x106 to 24x106.

The compositions within the meaning of the present invention further advantageously contain water and optionally the additives customary in cosmetics, e.g. B. preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, solubilizers, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fillers that improve the feeling on the skin, fats, oils, waxes or other common components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation.

For the purposes of the present invention, the water phase of the preparations can advantageously comprise customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, alcohols, in particular those with a low C number, preferably ethanol and / or isopropanol, diols or polyols with a low C number and their ethers, preferably propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or - monoethyl ether and analog products, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, dihydroxyacetone and in particular one or more thickeners, which or which can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination. Moisturizers can also be used with preference.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called trans-epidermal water joss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the skin after application or distribution on the skin surface To influence the horny layer positively.

Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, lactic acid and / or lactates, in particular sodium lactate, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride gum-1, glycine soya, ethylhexyloxyglycerol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and urea. It is also particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants. Water-soluble antioxidants, such as vitamins, e.g. B. ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Preferred antioxidants are also vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it is advantageous to add their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

It is particularly advantageous if the cosmetic preparations according to the present invention contain cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, preferred active ingredients being antioxidants which can protect the skin and / or the hair from oxidative stress.

Further advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or their derivatives, such as. B. alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, camosin, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, taurine and / or ß-alanine.

The preparation according to the invention advantageously contains one or more conditioners. Conditioners preferred according to the invention are, for example, all compounds which are in the International Cosmeϋc Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (Volume 4, publisher: RC Pepe, JA Wenninger, GN McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, 9th edition, 2002) under Section 4 under the keywords Hair Conditioning Agents, Humectants, Skin-Conditioning Agents, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Emollient, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Humactant, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Miscellaneous, Skin-Conditioning Agents-Occiusive and Skin Protectans are listed as well as all of them in EP 0934956 (p.11-13) under water soluble conditioning agent and oil soluble conditioning agent listed connections. Further conditioners which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, the compounds named polyquaternium according to the international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients (INCI). For example, polyquaternium-1 to polyquaternium-56, but also the polyethylene glycols and polyproylene glycols which are advantageous according to the invention.

Advantageously according to the invention, the preparations in which the fatty acid salts are advantageously used according to the invention have a pH of greater than 7 and preferably a pH of greater than 8.

According to the invention, the cleaning preparations in which the fatty acid salts are used according to the invention are advantageously used in liquid or semi-liquid form. "Liquid" means preparations according to the invention which have a viscosity of 1500 to 5000 mPas. "Semi-liquid" means preparations according to the invention which have a viscosity of greater than 5000 mPas. The viscosity values of the preparations and individual substances listed in the context of the preceding document were determined with the aid of a Viscotester VT 02 viscometer from Haake.

The cleaning compositions containing fatty acid salts used according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for cosmetic and / or dermatological body cleaning such as cleaning the skin and / or hair, as a make-up removal product for decorative cosmetics and for facial cleaning.

According to the invention, the cleaning preparations in which the fatty acid salts are used according to the invention are advantageously used for cleaning oily and / or impure skin / scalp. For use, the compositions comprising fatty acid salts used according to the invention are applied to the skin and / or the hair in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

According to the invention, the preparations in which the fatty acid salts are advantageously used according to the invention can be used as the impregnation medium for an insoluble substrate, for example a nonwoven or cloth, the substrate also being able to be in the form of a substrate which appears to be dry or as a substrate which appears to be moist.

Advantageously according to the invention, the preparations in which the fatty acid salts are advantageously used according to the invention can be used as a shampoo, shower gel, foam bath or tub bath and as a hand wash lotion or shaving cream. According to the invention, they can advantageously be stored in double-chamber packaging or foam dispensers (mechanical pump dispensers (pump foamers) or aerosol cans).

According to the invention, the preparations in which the fatty acid salts are advantageously used according to the invention can be used for cleaning and washing clothes and textiles (“detergents”) and for cleaning everyday objects (for example dishes, table and cupboard surfaces, cars). In such cases, the selectivity is that dirt and impurities are removed from the textiles and objects of daily life with high selectivity and the skin's own lipids, which are essential for preventing the skin from drying out, are protected.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention. The numerical values in the examples mean percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the respective preparations. Examples:

Claims

claims: 1. Use of one or more surface-active substances, selected from the group of fatty acid salts, to achieve or increase the selectivity of cosmetic or dermatological cleaning preparations. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of one or more fatty acid salts from the range of 1, 0 to 50 wt .-% based on the total weight of the formulation, in particular from the range of 5 to 40% by weight is selected. 3. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that one or more fatty acid salts are selected from the group of lauric, myristic and / or stearic acid salts. 4. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains further surface-active compounds. 5. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that an alkyl ether sulfate or a as further surface-active compounds Monoalkyl phosphate can be used. 6. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations contain gel formers from the group of polyacrylates and / or acrylate copolymers. 7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are used for face cleaning. 8. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are preferably used for cleaning oily and / or impure skin / scalp. 9. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations contain further cosmetic auxiliaries, in particular skin moisturizers, oil components, dyes, pigments, preservatives and / or perfume. 10. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are used in liquid or semi-liquid form. 11. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cleaning preparations are suitable for body cleaning.