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WO2003105791A1 - Utilisation d'astaxanthine - Google Patents

Utilisation d'astaxanthine Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2003105791A1
WO2003105791A1 PCT/EP2003/005969 EP0305969W WO03105791A1 WO 2003105791 A1 WO2003105791 A1 WO 2003105791A1 EP 0305969 W EP0305969 W EP 0305969W WO 03105791 A1 WO03105791 A1 WO 03105791A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
astaxanthin
acid
hair
derivatives
fatty
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2003/005969
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Wolf Eisfeld
Annette Mehling
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Original Assignee
Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG filed Critical Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Publication of WO2003105791A1 publication Critical patent/WO2003105791A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/045Hydroxy compounds, e.g. alcohols; Salts thereof, e.g. alcoholates
    • A61K31/07Retinol compounds, e.g. vitamin A
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K31/00Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
    • A61K31/33Heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K31/335Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin
    • A61K31/35Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom
    • A61K31/352Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom condensed with carbocyclic rings, e.g. methantheline 
    • A61K31/3533,4-Dihydrobenzopyrans, e.g. chroman, catechin
    • A61K31/355Tocopherols, e.g. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/678Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q7/00Preparations for affecting hair growth

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. It relates to the use of astaxanthin, which is obtained primarily from algae, for the preparation of agents which are used against hair loss, for strengthening the hair and for protection against UV light and against graying of the hair.
  • Astaxanthin is a carotenoid obtained from microalgae, which has become known in recent years due to the fact that it has been used increasingly in aquaculture to color the fish meat of trout and salmon.
  • This carotenoid has numerous other areas of application, for example it is used as a radical scavenger, hormone precursor, growth promoter, photoprotector or immunostimulant.
  • one of its most important functions is that of an antioxidant, because it has a 10-fold stronger antioxidative capacity than other carotenoids, for example ß-carotene.
  • astaxanthin includes use for the treatment of benign prostate hyperplasia (BPH) and prostate cancer, which takes place via an inhibition of the enzyme 5 ⁇ -reductase by the carotenoid - as disclosed in US Pat. No. 6,277,417 B1.
  • BPH benign prostate hyperplasia
  • astaxanthin is already known in cosmetic preparations.
  • European Patent EP 0 748 625 B1 describes cosmetic or dermatological preparations with photo-convertible carotenoids such as astaxanthin which, after controlled release, lead to the conversion and increased content of retinol and retinoic acid.
  • formulations with extracts of Haematococcus pluvialis for the treatment of rough, dry skin were disclosed.
  • the preparations can also be used for anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, anti-radical and anti-dandruff treatment.
  • Antioxidants such as tocopherol and carotenoids are known to be used in hair cosmetics - as described in German patent application DE 4139921 A1 - they act against the graying of human hair.
  • the object of the present patent application was to provide active ingredients from renewable raw materials for cosmetic and / or dermatological use, which are accessible in large quantities and which are versatile as care products in the most varied areas of cosmetics, pharmacy and / or Enable dermatology.
  • the invention relates to the use of astaxanthin for the preparation of agents against hair loss, for strengthening the hair to improve properties of the hair shaft, for stimulating hair growth, for protecting against oxidative damage to melanocytes and against graying of the hair, and for preparations with astaxanthin and hair dyes and preparations with astaxanthin and vitamin E.
  • astaxanthin has an outstanding activity against hair loss, in particular in the case of androgenic alopecia, by inhibiting 5- ⁇ -reductase.
  • stimulation of hair growth and strengthening of the hair and hair shaft can also be observed in healthy hair.
  • Preparations against exposure to UV light or to build up the hair offer protection and care for the hair and scalp, which can be attributed, among other things, to the good antioxidative and photoprotective properties of astaxanthine.
  • the coloring properties of astaxanthin can be exploited very well.
  • the hair-damaging properties of hair dyes are balanced by the protective and nourishing effects of small amounts of astaxanthin.
  • astaxanthin for the preparation of preparations for the treatment of acne vulgaris, seborrhea and hirsutism is also advantageous.
  • ROS reactive oxygen species
  • Astaxanthin, astaxanthin derivatives, astaxanthin-containing extracts from algae or animal starting materials can be used in the form of topical or oral preparations.
  • astaxanthine in the preparations, the effect of astaxanthine can be enhanced in a synergistic manner by adding further active ingredients. It has proven to be particularly advantageous if astaxanthin has additionally been combined with a further antioxidant, in particular ⁇ -tocopherol (vitamin E) or its derivatives, preferably the esters of ⁇ -tocopherol, with long-chain fatty acids.
  • a further antioxidant in particular ⁇ -tocopherol (vitamin E) or its derivatives, preferably the esters of ⁇ -tocopherol, with long-chain fatty acids.
  • a particularly intensive and long-lasting color is achieved in the combination of astaxanthin and other hair dyes in coloring hair care products.
  • the agents are particularly well tolerated, particularly as regards the damage to the hair which is often observed with hair dyes.
  • the astaxanthin used according to the invention is obtained from algae, Haematococcus pluvialis serving as the main source for the production from marine origin.
  • Astaxanthin is used in amounts of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 8% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight - as pure astaxanthin - based on the overall preparation. Astaxanthin is preferably used in encapsulated form, particularly preferably as microcapsules.
  • astaxanthin, its derivatives, esters and extracts with astaxanthin are preferably dissolved in soft gelatin capsules or dispersed in natural oils, preferably olive oil, safflower oil or semi-synthetic oils such as MCT oils (Miglyol®), and also in formulations with modified release, preferably sustained release formulations.
  • natural oils preferably olive oil, safflower oil or semi-synthetic oils such as MCT oils (Miglyol®)
  • MCT oils Miglyol®
  • a daily dose of 0.1 to 5 mg, preferably 0.5 to 3 mg and particularly preferably 1 to 2 mg of pure astaxanthin is recommended.
  • the preparations according to the invention can either be applied topically or via an oral intake. Encapsulating the preparations has proven useful for both purposes.
  • the active ingredient When applied directly to the skin, the active ingredient is released by mechanical action on the membrane during application, while in the case of oral administration there is a delayed release either through the pores of the membrane or through its gradual dissolution.
  • microcapsule is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean spherical aggregates with a diameter in the range from approximately 0.1 to approximately 5 mm, which contain at least one solid or liquid core which is enclosed by at least one continuous shell. I agree- he said it concerns finely dispersed liquid or solid phases coated with film-forming polymers, in the production of which the polymers are deposited on the material to be encased after emulsification and coacervation or interfacial polymerization. According to another process, melted waxes are taken up in a matrix (“microsponge”), which as microparticles can additionally be coated with film-forming polymers. The microscopic capsules can be dried like powders.
  • multinuclear aggregates also called microspheres.
  • the shell can consist of natural, semi-synthetic or synthetic materials.
  • shell materials are, for example, gum arabic , Agar-agar, agarose, maltodextrins, alginic acid or its salts, for example sodium or calcium alginate, fats and fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, collagen, chitosan, lecithins, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides, such as starch or dextran, polypeptides, protein hydrolysed sate, sucrose and wax e.
  • Stemi-synthetic wrapping materials include chemically modified celluloses, in particular cellulose esters and ethers, e.g.
  • Synthetic covering materials are, for example, polymers such as polyacrylates, polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
  • microcapsules of the prior art are the following commercial products (the shell material in each case is given in brackets): Hallcrest microcapsules (gelatin, gum arabic), Coletica Thalaspheres (maritime collagen), Lipoiec millicapsules (alginic acid, agar agar), Induchem Unispheres (Lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylceilulose); Unicerin C30 (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylceilulose), Kobo Glycospheres (modified starch, fatty acid esters, phospholipids), Softspheres (modified agar agar), Kuhs Probiol Nanospheres (phospholipids) as well as Primaspheres and Primasponges (Chitosan), Alginate Phosphate ,
  • chitosan and chitosan derivatives in the form of chitosan microspheres or microcapsules is well known.
  • the protection also extends to encapsulated preparations, in particular to microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an enveloping membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, which can be obtained by
  • microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm consisting of an envelope membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, which can be obtained by:
  • a matrix is prepared from gel formers, anionic polymers and components (a) and (b),
  • the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous chitosan solutions and, if appropriate, the oil phase is removed in the process.
  • microcapsules according to the invention have the particular advantage that they have high stability with respect to surfactants and can thus also be incorporated stably into cosmetic preparations without being dissolved during storage.
  • the advantage of oral intake is that it is well tolerated by the mucous membrane and completely toxicologically safe.
  • further embodiments of the invention also relate to two processes for producing microcapsules with average diameters in the range from 0.1 to 5 mm, consisting of an envelope membrane and a matrix containing the active ingredients, in which either
  • the dispersed matrix is treated with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers and, if appropriate, the oil phase is removed in the process.
  • a matrix is prepared from gel formers, anionic polymers and components (a) and (b),
  • those substances which have the property of forming gels in aqueous solution at temperatures above 40 ° C. are preferably considered as gel formers.
  • Typical examples are heteropolysaccharides and proteins.
  • Suitable thermogelling heteropolysaccharides are preferably agaroses, which can also be present in the form of the agar agar to be obtained from red algae together with up to 30% by weight of non-gel-forming agar pectins.
  • the main constituent of the agaroses are linear polysaccharides from D-galactose and 3,6-anhydro-L-galactose, which are linked alternately ß-1, 3- and ß-1, 4-glycosidically.
  • the heteropolysaccharides preferably have a molecular weight in the range from 110,000 to 160,000 and are both colorless and tasteless.
  • Alternatives are pectins, xanthans (also xanthan gum) and their mixtures. Preference is furthermore given to those types which still form gels in 1% by weight aqueous solution, which do not melt below 80 ° C. and solidify again above 40 ° C.
  • the various types of gelatin from the group of thermogelating proteins are examples.
  • Chitosans are biopolymers and belong to the group of hydrocolloids. From a chemical point of view, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weights that contain the following - idealized - monomer unit:
  • chitosans are cationic biopolymers under these conditions.
  • the positively charged chitosans can interact with oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetic hair and body care products and pharmaceuticals Preparations used.
  • the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available in large quantities as cheap raw materials.
  • the chitin is usually first deproteinized by adding bases, demineralized by adding mineral acids and finally deacetylated by adding strong bases, it being possible for the molecular weights to be distributed over a broad spectrum.
  • Those types are preferably used which have an average molecular weight of 10,000 to 500,000 or 800,000 to 1,200,000 Daltons and / or a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation in the range of Have 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.
  • the chitosans are generally used in the form of their salts, preferably as glycolates.
  • the matrix can optionally be dispersed in an oil phase before the membrane is formed.
  • Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3-carboxylic acids with linear C6 come as oils for this purpose, for example -C22- fatty alcohols, such as myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, My- ristyloleat, rat Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostea-, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl
  • esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
  • esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • Guerbet alcohols triglycerides based on C ⁇ -Cio fatty acids
  • esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids especially benzoic acid, esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes ,
  • the task of the anionic polymers is to form membranes with the chitosans.
  • Salts of alginic acid are preferably suitable for this purpose.
  • Alginic acid is a mixture of carboxyl-containing polysaccharides with the following idealized monomer unit:
  • the average molecular weight of the alginic acids or alginates is in the range from 150,000 to 250,000.
  • Salts of alginic acid are to be understood to mean both their complete and their partial neutralization products, in particular the alkali metal salts and among them preferably the sodium alginate (“algin”) and the ammonium and alkaline earth metal salts, mixed alginates such as sodium / magnesium or sodium being particularly preferred
  • algin sodium alginate
  • algin ammonium and alkaline earth metal salts
  • mixed alginates such as sodium / magnesium or sodium being particularly preferred
  • anionic chitosan derivatives such as carboxylation and, in particular, succinylation products are also suitable for this purpose, or alternatively poly (meth) acrylates with average molecular weights in the range from 5,000 to 50,000 daltons and the various
  • anionic surfactants or low molecular weight inorganic salts such as pyrophosphates, can also be used to form the envelope membrane.
  • the loading of the microcapsules with active ingredients can therefore also be 0.1 to 25% by weight, based on the capsule weight.
  • water-insoluble constituents for example inorganic pigments
  • inorganic pigments can also be added at this point in time to adjust the viscosity, these generally being added in the form of aqueous or aqueous / alcoholic dispersions.
  • emulsifiers and / or solubilizers to the matrix.
  • the matrix After the matrix has been prepared from the gel former, chitosan and active ingredient mixture (components a and b), the matrix can optionally be very finely dispersed in an oil phase under high shear in order to produce particles as small as possible in the subsequent encapsulation. It has proven particularly advantageous to heat the matrix to temperatures in the range from 40 to 60 ° C.
  • the actual encapsulation then takes place, ie the formation of the envelope membrane by bringing the chitosan in the matrix into contact with the anionic polymers.
  • the resulting aqueous preparations generally have a microcapsule content in the range from 1 to 10% by weight.
  • the solution of the polymers contains further ingredients, for example emulsifiers or preservatives.
  • microcapsules After filtration, microcapsules are obtained which have an average diameter in the range of preferably about 1 mm. It is advisable to sieve the capsules to ensure that the size is distributed as evenly as possible.
  • the microcapsules thus obtained can have any shape in the production-related framework, but they are preferably approximately spherical.
  • the anion polymers can also be used to produce the matrix and encapsulated with the chitosans.
  • pro-liposomes can also be used as carriers for the active ingredient mixtures.
  • the pro-liposomes do not contain water and only absorb this with the formation of real liposomes if they are introduced into an aqueous environment.
  • Another object of the invention therefore relates to pro-liposomally encapsulated antioxidant mixtures which have components (a) and (b) and which are obtained by treating the mixtures in cosmetically acceptable solvents with lecithins and / or phospholipids.
  • lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).
  • PC phosphatidylcholines
  • a lecithin is shown schematically in the above formula, where R typically stands for linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
  • Examples of natural lecithins that can be encapsulated include the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids can also be used for liposomal encapsulation. The use of lecithins or phospholipids for the production of liposomes can be found in the relevant literature.
  • the next object of the invention is directed analogously to a process for the preparation of pro-liposomally encapsulated antioxidant mixtures which have components (a) and (b) and which are obtained by mixing the mixtures in cosmetically acceptable solvents with lecithins and / or Phospholipids treated.
  • the active ingredient mixtures are usually se either in a solvent and brought into contact with the lecithins or phospholipids at temperatures in the range from 30 to 70 ° C, or the anhydrous mixtures are stirred into a solution of the lecithins or phospholipids.
  • the active ingredients and the lecithins and / or phospholipids can be used in a weight ratio of 1:20 to 5: 1, preferably 1: 2 to 4: 1.
  • Suitable solvents are preferably lower alcohols with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or polyols, which generally have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups; propylene glycol is preferred here.
  • Formulations which remain on the hair or scalp for a long time or which frequently contain aggressive chemicals are particularly suitable for the development of the effectiveness. These include hair treatments, hair packs, hair lotions, hair gels, hair colors, bleaching agents, permanent waving agents, sun and after-sun products for hair. The agents are also particularly suitable for long-term use with a prophylactic effect.
  • the preparations are in one
  • the preparations according to the invention have a composition of: 0.001 to 10% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.01 to 8% by weight of hair dyes, based on the overall preparation, preferably as hair colorants
  • hair dyes 0.1 to 5% by weight of astaxanthin and 0.1 to 3% by weight of hair dyes based on the overall preparation. hair dyes
  • ком ⁇ онент keratin fibers preferably human hair
  • direct dyes or oxidation dyes are usually used.
  • the latter consist of a developer (oxidation base) and a coupler component (shader) and are not dyes in the actual sense, but dye precursors.
  • Oxidation bases are aromatic compounds which are nucleus-substituted with at least two electron-donating groups (amino and / or hydroxyl groups).
  • amino and / or hydroxyl groups For example, primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and derivatives thereof are used. Special representatives are u. a.
  • shaders are also aromatic compounds, but with groups which are easily oxidizable on the ring in the m position.
  • m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols and pyridine derivatives are generally available.
  • Suitable coupler substances are in particular 1-naphthol, pyrogallol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, 1 -Phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3 - aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine and 2,6-diaminopyridine.
  • Suitable direct dyes are, for example, dyes from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as those with the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Picramic Acid and Rodol 9 R known compounds and 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, (N-2,3-dihydroxypropyl-2-nitro-4-trifluoromethyl) - aminobenzene and 4-N-ethyl-1,4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride.
  • mixtures of dyes from different groups can also be used.
  • other dye components reference is expressly made to the Colipa list, published by the Industry Association for Personal Care and Detergents, Frankfurt.
  • Astaxanthin can - as already partially enumerated above with the agents with a longer duration of action - for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, stick preparations, powders, Ointments, tablets, dragees, capsules, juices, solutions and granules are used.
  • cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, stick preparations, powders, Ointments, tablets, dragees, capsules, juices, solutions and granules are used.
  • agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active ingredients, additional UV light protection factors, additional antioxidants, Contain anti-dandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants can be contained as surface-active substances.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates (fatty ether ether sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide sulfates, hydroxymether amide s
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of non-ionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides, especially nucylglycolic acid derivatives (N-fatty acid silicate acid derivatives) Wheat-based products), polyolf esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyidistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazoliniumbetaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, alkyl fatty amide amides, amide carboxylic acid amide carbamides, fatty carboxamides, or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • esters of linear C6-C22- Fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of Ci8-C38-alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22-fatty alcohols especially dioctylmate
  • esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol , Dimer diol or trimer triol
  • polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol , Dimer diol or trimer triol
  • Guerbet alcohols triglycerides based on C ⁇ -Cio fatty acids
  • liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-Ci8 fatty acids
  • esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branche
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and poly (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
  • Polymer emulsifiers e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out.
  • Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are manufactured in particular by converting glu cose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products,
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, linoleic acid monoglyceride, Linolklarediglycerid, LinolenTalkremonoglycerid, Linolenchurediglycerid, Erucaklaremonoglycerid, Erucaklarediglycerid, Weinklaremonoglycerid, Weinklarediglyce- chloride, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, ⁇ pfelklamonoglycerid, Malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5
  • sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan come diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan dioleate, trioleate, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrieru- cat, Sorbitanmonoricinoleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydroxystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, sorting bitantrihydroxystearat , Sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui-tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3 diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyearyl-3 diisostearates (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate I
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide. or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.
  • Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 -car- boxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium gly
  • fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ⁇ / is-alkyl or acyl group, have at least one free amino group in the molecule and at least one contain a -COOH or -S ⁇ 3H group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each have about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkylaminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethylamino propionate and Ci2 / ⁇ s acyl sarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized di-fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. Solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes, among others. natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g.
  • natural waxes e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax
  • Montanester waxes Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
  • fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins to mean those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often used in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).
  • Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carbon acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, as well as higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (eg Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Sepigel types from Seppic; Salcare types from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
  • Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • polysaccharides in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose
  • Bentonites such as e.g. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) has been proven, which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate.
  • Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride are also suitable.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers. stabilizers
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryl-dimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g.
  • Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as well as their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitinite crystals such as, for example, quaternized chitin derivatives such as, Condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g.
  • cationic guar gum such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their polyols, and non-crosslinked polyacrylate and their esters, non-crosslinked acrylate - Trimethylarnmonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methylmethacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate and silicate / vinylpoly
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • UV light protection factors to be added are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.
  • oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
  • Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone, or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
  • Possible water-soluble substances are: > 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
  • benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
  • typical UV-A filters -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane Parsol® 1789
  • 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • the pigments can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or which differ in some other way from the spherical shape.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples of this are amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives,.
  • Imidazoles eg urocanic acid
  • peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, Propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids , Nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximine homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine
  • very low tolerable dosages e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -Hydroxy fatty acids, Pa lmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • Folic acid and its derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A-palmitate
  • biogenic active substances include tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and its fragmentation products, ß-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudo-essential oils, amide acids To understand plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-H yd roxy-4-methyl-6- (2, 4, 4-tri my thyipentyl) -2- (1 H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt
  • Baypival® (climbazole)
  • Ketoconazol® (4-Acety I- 1 - ⁇ -4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1 H -imidazol-1-ylmethyl]) - 1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine
  • Ketoconazole selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyglycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinolexylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid, undosulfonate, zinc salt
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemulene and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can NEN still contain other functional groups, especially amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, as well as the silver complexes known under the name Surfacine® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (Be.rgamotte, Lemon, oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme ), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones, ⁇ -isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone the alcohols ethanol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labola oil and lavandin oil.
  • peppermint oil comes as flavors. Spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.
  • the dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples are Kochillerot A (Cl 16255), Patent Blue V (C.1.42051), Indigotine (C.1.73015), Chlorophyllin (C.1.75810), Quinoline Yellow (CI47005), Titanium Dioxide (C.1.77891), Indanthrene Blue RS (Cl 69800) and Madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. example recipes
  • Table 1 Leave-on hair tonic (amounts in% by weight)

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Abstract

L'invention concerne l'utilisation d'astaxanthine pour préparer des agents pour lutter contre la chute des cheveux, rendre les cheveux plus vigoureux, en améliorer les propriétés, en stimuler la pousse et pour prévenir les altérations oxydatives de mélanocytes et pour lutter par conséquent contre le blanchissement des cheveux. L'invention concerne en outre des préparations à base d'astaxanthine et de colorants, et d'astaxanthine et de alpha -tocophérol. L'astaxanthine utilisée provient de préférence de sources marines et se présente sous forme encapsulée dans les formulations.
PCT/EP2003/005969 2002-06-15 2003-06-06 Utilisation d'astaxanthine Ceased WO2003105791A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE2002126700 DE10226700A1 (de) 2002-06-15 2002-06-15 Verwendung von Astaxathin
DE10226700.6 2002-06-15

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Publication Number Publication Date
WO2003105791A1 true WO2003105791A1 (fr) 2003-12-24

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2003/005969 Ceased WO2003105791A1 (fr) 2002-06-15 2003-06-06 Utilisation d'astaxanthine

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DE (1) DE10226700A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2003105791A1 (fr)

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JP2008273874A (ja) * 2007-04-27 2008-11-13 Fuji Chem Ind Co Ltd 頭皮外用剤
WO2009080572A1 (fr) * 2007-12-21 2009-07-02 Unilever Plc Composition topique comprenant des antioxydants colorants
US20110059192A1 (en) * 2005-08-09 2011-03-10 Glynn Kelly M Methods and Compositions for Modulating Hair Growth or Regrowth
US20120251458A1 (en) * 2011-03-29 2012-10-04 Kemin Industries, Inc. Dyes for Membranes and Biological Structures
WO2014112219A1 (fr) * 2013-01-21 2014-07-24 富士フイルム株式会社 Préparation à usage externe pour la peau
US8834855B2 (en) 2005-01-21 2014-09-16 Promar As Sunscreen compositions comprising carotenoids
WO2016026723A3 (fr) * 2014-08-19 2016-04-14 Cutech Srl Extraits de nannochloropsis sp. et leurs applications

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EP0586303A1 (fr) * 1992-09-01 1994-03-09 L'oreal Composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique comprenant en association une peroxydase et un agent anti-oxygène singulet
EP0748625A1 (fr) * 1995-06-16 1996-12-18 L'oreal Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique à libération contrÔlée d'actif contenant un caroténoide photoconvertible
US6277417B1 (en) * 2000-04-07 2001-08-21 Triarco Industries, Inc. Method of inhibiting 5α-reductase with astaxanthin
EP1213013A2 (fr) * 2000-11-29 2002-06-12 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Procédé de préparation de compositions solides d' agents actifs solubles, difficilement solubles ou insolubles dans l'eau

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US8834855B2 (en) 2005-01-21 2014-09-16 Promar As Sunscreen compositions comprising carotenoids
US20110059192A1 (en) * 2005-08-09 2011-03-10 Glynn Kelly M Methods and Compositions for Modulating Hair Growth or Regrowth
US8197865B2 (en) 2005-08-09 2012-06-12 Access Business Group International Llc Methods and compositions for modulating hair growth or regrowth
JP2008273874A (ja) * 2007-04-27 2008-11-13 Fuji Chem Ind Co Ltd 頭皮外用剤
WO2009080572A1 (fr) * 2007-12-21 2009-07-02 Unilever Plc Composition topique comprenant des antioxydants colorants
CN101951871B (zh) * 2007-12-21 2013-05-22 荷兰联合利华有限公司 包含着色抗氧化剂的局部组合物
US20120251458A1 (en) * 2011-03-29 2012-10-04 Kemin Industries, Inc. Dyes for Membranes and Biological Structures
WO2014112219A1 (fr) * 2013-01-21 2014-07-24 富士フイルム株式会社 Préparation à usage externe pour la peau
JP5931223B2 (ja) * 2013-01-21 2016-06-08 富士フイルム株式会社 皮膚外用剤
WO2016026723A3 (fr) * 2014-08-19 2016-04-14 Cutech Srl Extraits de nannochloropsis sp. et leurs applications
US20170246229A1 (en) * 2014-08-19 2017-08-31 Cutech Srl Extracts of nannochloropsis sp. and their applications
US11141371B2 (en) 2014-08-19 2021-10-12 Symrise Ag Extracts of Nannochloropsis sp. and their applications

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