WO2003035023A1 - Cosmetic composition containing a dhea derivative and a soothing agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition containing, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative and at least one agent that can inhibit at least one enzyme selected from among phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and/or human prostaglandin synthetases. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of said composition, particularly in order to soothe cutaneous disorders including sensitive skin, cutaneous discomfort, skin tightness, pruritus, cutaneous irritations, cutaneous swelling, redness of the skin and/or cutaneous heat sensations. The invention also relates to a soothing cosmetic treatment method comprising the topical application of one such composition.

Description

 Cosmetic composition containing a DHEA derivative and a soothing agent

The invention relates to a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative in combination with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases.

The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of this composition, in particular for soothing skin disorders and skin disturbances chosen from sensitive skin, skin discomfort, skin tightness, itching of the skin, skin irritations, swelling skin redness and / or feelings of skin heat.

The invention also relates to a soothing cosmetic treatment method comprising the topical application of such a composition.

We know that the human being can undergo phenomena of aggressive types which are characterized by a feeling of cutaneous discomfort, tightness, itching, the sensation of cutaneous heat, or redness.

We have been looking for many years for substances to fight against these types of aggression.

Even if solutions have already been proposed, it remains constantly interesting to have new compositions with soothing activity, in particular for skin disturbances such as, for example, sensitive skin, skin discomfort, skin tightness, itchy skin, skin irritations, swelling of the skin, redness of the skin, sensations of skin heat.

Among the factors responsible for these aggressive type phenomena, mention may be made of the enzymes involved in the arachidonic acid cascade. There are three main enzymes involved in the arachidonic acid cascade. The first are the phospholipases A2 (PLA2) whose physiological function is the release of the esterified fatty acids in the membrane phospholipids which are transformed into arachidonic acid. Arachidonic acid is then oxidized enzymatically by lipoxygenases (Lox) or by human prostaglandins synthetases (PGHS) to give pro-inflammatory mediators such as prostaglandins and leukotrienes (William L. Smith, 1989, biochem J, 259.315-324). (

Many substances are known in the prior art to inhibit at least one of these enzymes.

In this regard, there may be mentioned for example vegetable oils (Lipids, 32 (7), 759-767), triterpenes and fish oils (Heller and Coll. Lipdi mediators in inflammatory disorders, Drugs, 55 (4), 487-496).

However, there remains the need to reinforce the effectiveness of these compounds to soothe certain disorders and disturbances, in particular cutaneous.

However, it appeared to the Applicant that the combination of a DHEA derivative with an agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases could make it possible to improve the effectiveness of the compositions comprising said agent inhibiting said enzymes.

DHEA or dehydroepiandrosterone is a natural steroid produced mainly by the adrenal cortex. Exogenous DHEA, administered topically or orally, is known for its ability to promote keratinization of the epidermis (JP-07 196 467) and to treat dry skin by increasing endogenous production and sebum secretion and by strengthening thus the barrier effect of the skin (US Pat. No. 4,496,556). The use of DHEA to remedy atrophy of the dermis by inhibiting the loss of collagen and connective tissue has also been described in US Pat. No. 5,843,932. Finally, the Applicant has demonstrated the ability of DHEA to fight against the papery appearance of the skin (FR 2803513), to modulate the pigmentation of the skin and of the hair EP-1092423 and to fight against the atrophy of the 'epidermis (FR 00/06154).

However, DHEA has effects of a hormonal nature which can make its use delicate. Therefore, we understand that we have sought to have DHEA derivatives having properties as interesting as DHEA itself, but having no hormonal effects. Among the DHEA derivatives, 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA or Δ5- androstene-3β-acetoxy-7,17-dione, which has been described as being effective in modulating the immune system, is already known. -5,292,730; US-5,585,371; US-5,641,766), the treatment of Alzheimer's disease (US-5,707,983) and the treatment of HIV syndrome (US-5,885,977) and to promote weight loss (US-5,296,481; US 5,807,848).

Document WO 99/25333 also mentions the use, in particular topical use, of 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA in the prophylactic and curative treatment of lupus erythematosus, which is a disorder of the immune system capable of affecting several organs. and manifested, in the skin, by a transverse redness of the face and / or by plaques of scaly erythema disseminated on the body.

Document US 5,424,463 describes in particular 7-keto-DHEA (or Δ5-androstene-3β-ol-7,17-dione) as well as its hydrolysable derivatives obtained by modification of the 3β-hydroxy group, said derivatives being capable of restoring 7 -keto-DHEA after hydrolysis. The 3β-hydroxy group is transformed into a carbamate or is esterified with (i) a C2-C22 aliphatic acid, normal, branched, saturated or unsaturated, (ii) a C7-C22 aromatic acid, (iii) a dicarboxylic acid in C3 or more, for which only one carbonyl group is esterified with the 3-hydroxy group of the steroid, (iv) an inorganic acid such as sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid. Document US 5,424,463 describes 7-keto-DHEA and its hydrolyzable derivatives as being effective in promoting weight loss.

Document WO98 / 40074 further describes the use of 7-hydroxy-DHEA derivatives esterified in position 3 and / or 7 to treat skin aging.

However, to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been suggested to associate DHEA derivatives with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases. The object of the present invention is therefore to be able to have new compositions thus exhibiting an enhanced soothing activity while not presenting any significant side effects.

This object and others are achieved by the present invention which relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one derivative of DHEA in association with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme, chosen among phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, the said agent not being an inhibitor of 5α-reductase.

The DHEA derivative according to the invention corresponds to the following formula (I):

(I) dans laquelle : - R1 est choisi parmi :

(I) in which: - R1 is chosen from:

- a hydrogen atom;

- a C1-C24 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and or -COOR ' and / or -NR'R 'and / or halogen and / or sulfate and / or phosphate and / or aryl and / or heterocycle, said heterocycle can advantageously be chosen from an indole, a pyrimidine, a piperidine, a morpholine, a pyran , furan, piperazine, pyridine;

an alkylcarbonyl group, the C1-C24 alkyl part of which is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R 'and / or halogen and / or sulfate and / or phosphate and or aryl and / or heterocycle, said heterocycle can advantageously be chosen from an indole, a pyrimidine, piperidine, morpholine, pyran, furan, piperazine, pyridine;

- an arylcarbonyl group, preferably a phenylcarbonyl, or an arylalkylcarbonyl group, preferably a benzylcarbonyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R' and / or halogen and / or aryl and / or heterocycle;

- a group O = P (OH) OR ';

- a group (O) ₂ SOR ';

- a trialkylsilyl group (SiR ' ₃ ) in which the 3 R' groups can be identical or different;

- a carbonyloxyalkyl group (R'OCO);

- a carbonylaminealkyle group (R'NHCO);

in which R ′ is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a C1-C12, preferably C1-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic alkyl group which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, optionally functionalized with one or several groups -OR ", -COOR", halogen, -NR "R"; or by an aryl group, preferably a phenyl, optionally functionalized by one or more groups -OR ", -COOR", halogen or -NR "R"; preferably R 'represents a hydrogen atom, methyl, ethyl, butyl, propyl, isopropyl; and,

R "represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl chain, preferably C1-C6, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or cyclic, preferably R" represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, an ethyl, a butyl, propyl, isopropyl;

it being understood that in each of the groups -NR'R 'and -NR "R", the substituents R', respectively R ", are identical or different, and that advantageously the group -NR'R 'represents an amino acid, preferably chosen from L-alanine, L-arginine, L-asparagine, L-aspartic acid, L-cysteine, L-glutamine, L-glutamic acid, glycine, L-histidine, L-isoleucine, L-leucine, L-lysine, L-methionine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L-valine;

- R2 and R3 together represent a keto group (= O) or, when R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 represents an OR4 radical with R4 having the same definitions as those given above for R1.

The invention also relates to the optical and / or geometric isomers of the DHEA derivatives of formula (I) alone or as a mixture in all proportions, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these derivatives. In particular, the stereochemistry in position 7 of the DHEA derivatives of formula (I) for which R3 represents an OR4 radical can be alpha (α), beta (β) or the mixture of the two in any proportion.

According to a preferred form of the invention, the preferred DHEA derivatives of formula (I) are those for which R2 and R3 together represent a keto group (= O) and R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C24 alkyl group , preferably C1-C18, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, or cyclic which may contain one or more heteroatoms, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR ' and / or -NR'R 'and / or halogen.

According to another preferred form of the invention, the preferred DHEA derivatives of formula (I) are those for which R2 and R3 together represent a keto group (= O) and R1 represents an alkylcarbonyl group, including the C1 alkyl part -C24, preferably C1-C18, is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or cyclic and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR 'R' and / or halogen.

According to yet another preferred form of the invention, the preferred DHEA derivatives of formula (I) are those for which R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 represents a radical OR4, with R4 having the same definitions as those given above of preferred way for R1.

Among the DHEA derivatives of formula (I) according to the invention, any particularly at least one of the following compounds:

- Δ5-androstene-3β-hydroxy-7,17-dione or 7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (7-oxo-DHEA);

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-acetyloxy-7-oxo-DHEA sold under the name of 7 Keto by the company Humanetics);

- 3β-O-propionyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-propionyloxy-7-oxo-DHEA);

- 3β-O-butanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-butanoyloxy-7-oxo-DHEA);

- 3β-O-iso-butanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-pentanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-hexanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-heptanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-octanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-nonanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-decanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-dodecanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-myristoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-palmitoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-stearoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-arachidoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-docosanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-lignoceroyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-oleoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-linoleoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-linolenoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-petroselinoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-methyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-ethyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-carboxymethyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone:

- 3β-O-glucosyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-glucoronyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (2-tetrahydropyranyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (2-tetrahydrofuranyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone glycinate; - 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone lysinate;

- 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone serinate;

- 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone α-glutamate;

- α-Aspartate of 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-Hemisuccinoyloxyandrost-5-ene-7,17-dione;

- 3β-O- (2-hydroxy-malonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (2-malonyl-amino-carbonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (2-succinyl-amino-carbonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (2-glutaryl-amino-carbonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-methylcarbonate-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (trifluroacetyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (4-carboxy-butanoyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (4-cyclopentyl-butanoyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-benzoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (3,4-dihyroxy-benzoyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O- (ascorbyl phosphate) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O- (ascorbyl sulfate) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-phosphonyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-monoacetyl-phosphonyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-sulfonyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (tert-butyl-dimethyl-silyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (tert-butyl-diphenyl-silyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O- (trimethyl silyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- Δ5-androstene-3β, 7β-dihydroxy-17-dione or 7β-OH-dehydroepiandrosterone (7β-hydroxy-DHEA);

- Δ5-androstene-3β, 7α-dihydroxy-17-dione or 7α-OH-dehydroepiandrosterone (7α-hydroxy-DHEA);

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone (3-beta-acetoxy-7-hydroxy-DHEA);

- 3β-O-propionyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone (3-beta-propionyloxy-7-hydroxy-DHEA);

- 3β-O-butanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone (3-beta-butanoyloxy-7-hydroxy-DHEA);

- 3β-O-iso-butanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-pentanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-hexanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-heptanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-octanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-nonanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-decanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-dodecanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-myristoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-palmitoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-stearoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-arachidoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-docosanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-lignoceroyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-oleoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-linoleoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-linolenoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-petroselinoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-acetyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone;

3β-O-acetyl-7-O-acetyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-propionyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-butanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-iso-butanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-pentanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-hexanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-heptanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-octanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-nonanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-decanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-dodecanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-myristoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-palmitoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-stearoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-arachidoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-docosanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-lignoceroyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-oleoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-linoleoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-linolenoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone;

- 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-petroselinoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone.

Advantageously, the compounds corresponding to formula (I) are chosen from at least one of the following compounds: - Δ5-androstene-3β-hydroxy-7,17-dione or 7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (7-oxo-

DHEA);

3β-O-acetyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA);

- Δ5-androstene-3β, 7α-dihydroxy-17-dione or 7α-OH-dehydroepiandrosterone (7α-hydroxy-DHEA).

The DHEA derivatives of formula (I) according to the invention are easily accessible from a synthetic point of view, in particular not the implementation of one of the synthesis methods described in US Patents 5,424,463; FR-2,771,105; US-5,869,709; US-6, 111, 118 or WO-94/085888.

According to the invention, the agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases is chosen from at least one of the following substances: pentacyclic triterpenes and extracts of plant (in particular Glycyrrhiza glabra) containing it, in particular oleanolic acid, ursolic acid and its salts, boswellic acid and its salts; betullic acid and its salts; β glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or its derivatives such as glycyrrhetic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid); - extracts of Paeonia suffruticosa;

- extracts of Paeonia lactiflora;

- calophilum oil; - phycosaccharides, in particular hydrolyzed algin ^® or hydrolyzed algin and zinc sulfate ^® from the company Codif;

- Canola oil;

- Tamanu oil; - calophillum oil;

- alphabisabolol;

- chamomile extracts;

- Pallantoine;

- The diesterphosphoric acid of vitamin E and C, in particular the Sepivital EPC ^® from Seppic;

- oils unsaturated in omega 3 such as oils of rose musca, blackcurrant oils, ecchium oils, fish oils;

- Plankton extracts, in particular the Omega plankton ^® from Secma;

- The combination of palmitoylproline sodium and Nymphea alba, in particular Seppicalm VG ^® from Séppic;

- extracts from the pygeum;

- Boswellia serrata extracts, in particular Quest Soothex ^® ;

- Centipeda cunnighami extracts, in particular phytoplenolin ^® from Bio-Botanica; - Helianthus annuus extracts, in particular Helioxin ^® from Silab;

- Linum usitatissimum extracts, in particular Sensiline ^® from Silab;

- tocotrienols;

- extracts of Cola nitida;

- the piperonal; - clove extracts;

- willowherb extracts (Epilobium angustifolium);

- Aloe vera extracts.

Advantageously, the agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases is chosen from at least one of the following substances:

- extracts of Glycyrrhiza glabra, oleanolic acid and its salts; ursolic acid and its salts; boswellic acid and its salts; betullic acid and its salts; β glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or its derivatives such as glycyrrhetic acid monoglucuronide, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid;

- extracts of Paeonia suffruticosa;

- extracts of Paeonia lactiflora; - phycosaccharides, in particular hydrolyzed algin ^® or hydrolyzed algin and zinc sulfate ^® from the company Codif;

- calophillum oil;

- alphabisabolol; chamomile extracts; - allantoin;

- tocotrienols; Aloe vera extracts.

The respective amounts of DHEA derivative of formula (I) and of agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases present in the composition obviously depends on the effect. research.

To give an order of magnitude, the composition according to the invention may contain from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight, of DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition.

To give another order of magnitude, the composition according to the invention may contain from 0.0001 to 10%, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, of agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2 , lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases as defined above, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Depending on the mode of administration, this composition can be in all the galenical forms normally used. The compositions according to the invention can be intended for a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application, particularly dermatological. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are intended for a cosmetic application.

Thus, another object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined above with at least agent capable of 'inhibit at least one enzyme selected from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, to soothe the skin and / or scalp.

Another subject of the invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined above with at least agent capable of inhibit at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, to prevent and / or treat sensitive skin and / or skin discomfort and / or skin tightness and / or itching of the skin and / or skin irritations and / or skin swelling and / or skin redness and / or feelings of skin heat.

The compositions according to the invention are preferably suitable for topical application to keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the mucous membranes, the hair, the eyelashes or the nails. They can be in all dosage forms normally used for this type of application, in particular in the form of an aqueous or oily solution, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a silicone emulsion , a microemulsion or nanoemulsion, an aqueous or oily gel or a liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous product.

These compositions can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. or a gel. They can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol, patch or powder. They can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick. They can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin. They may alternatively be in the form of a shampoo or conditioner.

It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or also in the form of aerosol compositions also comprising a propellant under pressure.

In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain the adjuvants usual in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, pigments, absorbents of odor and coloring matter. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase. These adjuvants, as well as their concentrations, must be such that they do not harm the advantageous properties of the DHEA derivative of formula (I) according to the invention and of the agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases.

When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 2 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The fats, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are preferably present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsion may, in addition, contain lipid vesicles.

When the composition is an oily solution or gel, the fatty phase can represent more than 90% of the total weight of the composition.

In known manner, the cosmetic composition can also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic additives, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, odor absorbers and coloring matters. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetic field, and for example from 0.01% to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into the lipid spherules.

As oils or waxes which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (petroleum jelly oil), vegetable oils (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil), animal oils (perhydrosqualene), synthetic oils ( Purcellin oil), silicone oils or waxes (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers), beeswax, carnauba or paraffin. Fatty alcohols and fatty acids (stearic acid) can be added to these oils.

As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, mention may, for example, be made of fatty acid and polyethylene glycol esters such as PEG-100 stearate, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; fatty acid and polyol esters such as glyceryl stearate, sorbitan tristearate and oxyethylenated sorbitan stearates available under the trade names Tween® 20 or Tween® 60, for example; and their mixtures.

As solvents which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, propylene glycol.

As hydrophilic gelling agents which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomers), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkyl acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides such as hydroxypropylcellulose, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, ethylcellulose, polyethylene.

Whatever its mode of administration, the combination according to the invention can be used in cosmetics to soothe the skin and / or the scalp. Thus, another object of the present invention relates to cosmetic use as a soothing agent, by topical application to the skin and / or the scalp, of the combination comprising at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined above with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases as defined above.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic use as an agent for preventing and / or treating sensitive skin, skin discomfort, skin tightness, itchy skin, skin irritation, skin swelling, skin rash and / or the sensations of skin heat, by topical application to the skin and / or leather, of the combination comprising at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined above with at least agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases as defined above.

By "sensitive skins" is meant the skins which have been characterized by the Applicant in patent EP 0 680 749 B1. The Applicant has been able to show that the symptoms linked to sensitive skin consist of more or less painful sensations felt in a skin area, such as tingling, tingling, itching or itching, burning, redness, heating, discomfort, tightness, etc. These symptoms can appear in response to various factors such as, among others, sweat, friction, emotions, food, wind, friction, razor, soap, surfactants, hard water with a high concentration of limestone, temperature variations or wool.

Furthermore, the expression "sensitive skin" covers both irritable skin and intolerant skin.

The present invention also relates to a soothing cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials comprising the topical application thereon of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) such as defined previously with at least agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases.

It relates more particularly to a cosmetic treatment process for sensitive skin, skin discomfort, skin tightness, itching of the skin, skin irritations, swelling of the skin, redness of the skin, sensations of skin heat comprising the application topical on the skin or scalp of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined above in combination with at least agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases.

The following examples of compositions illustrate the invention without limiting it in any way. In the compositions, the proportions indicated are percentages by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLE 1 Gel for Sensitive Skin

A Acrylate / C10-30 alkylacrylate copolymer 0.50%

Water 12.00%

B Hexyldecanol 10.00%

Isononyl isononanoate 10.00%

Octyl methoxycinnamate 1.00% 7-Keto-DHEA 0.50%

C Triethanolamine 0.50%

Water Qs 100.00%

Glycerin 6.00%

Preservatives 0.25% Allantoin 0.10% α-bisabolol 0.10%

D Polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and Laureth 7

(Sepigel 305 supplied by SEPPIC) 0.50% Procedure:

The above composition can be prepared in the following manner: the polymer of phase A is dispersed in water at 40 ° C. The constituents of phase B are heated to 70 ° C until complete dissolution and then the temperature is reduced to 40 ° C. The constituents of phase C are mixed at 50 ° C. '

B is introduced into A at 40 ° C with stirring and then phase C is added to them. Phase D is introduced into the mixture previously obtained.

This cream is particularly well suited to the treatment of sensitive skin in single or bi daily application.

EXAMPLE 2 Lotion for Sensitive Skin

- Paeonia suffruticosa extract 0.50%

- 3β-acetoxy-7-keto-DHEA 0.01% - Propylene glycol 20.00%

- Hydroxy propycellulose 3.50%

- Ethyl alcohol Qsp 100.00% - Water 50.00%

Example 3: Cleansing gel for sensitive skin

All percentages are expressed by weight of raw materials as such.

- Lauryl phosphate (1) 6.50%

- Decyl Glucoside (2) 16.25% - Polyquaternium-7 (3) 5.70%

- PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearte (4) 0.50% - Glycerin 3.50% - Sorbitol 3.50%

- potassium Hydroxide 1.70% - Hydroxypropylcellulose 0.20%

- Disodium EDTA 0.05%

- Sodium chloride 0.10%

- 7-Keto-DHEA 0.10%>

- β Glycyrrhetinic acid 1, 00% - Methylparaben 0.15%

- imidazolidinyl urea 0.15% - Water Qsp 100.00%

(1) Lauryle mono-phosphate (75% mono-ester); MAP 20 ^® by KAO CHEMICALS

(2) Alkyl (C9 / 11) polyglucoside (1, 4) in 40% solution; Mydol 10 ^® by KAO CHEMICALS

(3) Copolymer of di-methyl di-allyl ammonium chloride / acrylamide in water at 8%; CALGON Merquat S ^®

(4) Pentaerythrityl oxyethylene tetrastearate (150 EO) CROTHIX ^® from CRODA

EXAMPLE 4 Tinted Cream intended for the treatment of oily and sensitive skin - Hydrogenated lecithin 2.4%

- Apricot almond oil 6.0%

- Musca rose seed oil 1.0%

- Ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer 1.0%

- Soy sterols oxyethylenated (5 EO) 1.6% - 7 alpha hydroxy-DHEA 0.5%

- Serenoa repens 1.0%

- Iron oxides 0.9%

- Titanium oxide 5.0%

- Polyacrylamide / C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ -lsoparaffin / Laureth-7 (Sepigel 305) 4.0% - Cyclopentadimethylsiloxane 6.0%

- Glycerin 6.0%

- Propylene glycol 6.0 %% - Aloes vera 1, 0%

- Perfume qs - Demineralized water Qsp 100.0%

This cream is beige in color and suitable for the treatment of the skin, by application to the face twice a day.

Claims

1. Composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative in association with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, said agent not being a 5α-reductase inhibitor, characterized in that said DHEA derivative corresponds to the following formula (I):

(I) in which: - R1 is chosen from: - a hydrogen atom; - a C1-C24 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R' and / or halogen and / or sulfate and / or phosphate and / or aryl and / or heterocycle, said heterocycle can advantageously be chosen from an indole, a pyrimidine, a piperidine, a morpholine, a pyrane, furan, piperazine, pyridine; an alkylcarbonyl group, the C1-C24 alkyl part of which is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R 'and / or halogen and / or sulfate and / or phosphate and / or aryl and / or heterocycle, said heterocycle can advantageously be chosen from an indole, a pyrimidine, a piperidine, a morpholine, a pyran, furan, piperazine, pyridine; - an arylcarbonyl group, preferably a phenylcarbonyl, or an arylalkylcarbonyl group, preferably a benzylcarbonyl, optionally substituted by one or more groups -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R' and / or halogen and / or aryl and / or heterocycle; - a group O = P (OH) OR '; - a group (O) ₂ SOR '; - a trialkylsilyl group (SiR ' ₃ ) in which the 3 R' groups can be identical or different; - a carbonyloxyalkyl group (R'OCO); - a carbonylaminealkyle group (R'NHCO); in which R 'is chosen from a hydrogen atom, a C1- alkyl group C12, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, cyclic which may optionally contain one or more heteroatoms, optionally functionalized by one or more groups -OR ", -COOR", halogen, -NR "R"; or by an aryl group, preferably a phenyl, optionally functionalized by one or more groups -OR ", -COOR", halogen or -NR "R"; R "represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl group, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or cyclic, it being understood that in each of the groups -NR'R 'and -NR "R", the substituents R ', respectively R ", are the same or different; - R2 and R3 together represent a keto group (= O) or, when R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 represents an OR4 radical with R4 having the same definitions as those given above for R1. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the DHEA derivatives of formula (I) are those for which R2 and R3 together represent a keto group (= O) and R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-alkyl group - C18 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, or cyclic which may contain one or more heteroatoms, and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR' R 'and / or halogen. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the DHEA derivatives of formula (I) are those for which R2 and R3 together represent a keto group (= O) and R1 represents an alkylcarbonyl group, the C1-C18 alkyl part of which is saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched or cyclic and optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from -OR 'and / or -SR' and / or -COOR 'and / or -NR'R' and / or halogen. 4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the preferred DHEA derivatives of formula (I) are those for which R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 represents a radical OR4, with R4 having the same definitions as those given for R1 in claim 3. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each of the groups R 'and R "represents a group chosen from a hydrogen atom and a C1-C6 alkyl group. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each of the groups R 'and R "represents a group chosen from a hydrogen atom, a methyl, an ethyl, a butyl, a propyl, an isopropyl. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that each of the groups -NR'R 'and -NR "R" represents an amino acid, preferably chosen from L-alanine, L-arginine, L-asparagine, L-aspartic acid, L-cysteine, L-glutamine, L-glutamic acid, glycine, L-histidine, L- isoleucine, L-leucine, L-lysine, L- methionine, L-phenylalanine, L-proline, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L-valine. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the DHEA derivative of formula (I) is chosen from at least one of the following derivatives: - Δ5-androstene-3β-hydroxy-7,17 -dione or 7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (7-oxo-DHEA); - 3β-O-acetyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEA); - 3β-O-propionyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-propionyloxy-7-oxo-DHEA); - 3β-O-butanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-butanoyloxy-7-oxo-DHEΞA) - 3β-O-iso-butanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-pentanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-hexanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-heptanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-octanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-nonanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-decanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-dodecanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-myristoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-palmitoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-stearoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-arachidoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-docosanoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-lignoceroyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-oleoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-linoleoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-linolenoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-petroselinoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-methyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-ethyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-carboxymethyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone: - 3β-O-glucosyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-glucoronyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (2-tetrahydropyranyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (2-tetrahydrofuranyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone glycinate; - 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone lysinate; - 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone serinate; - 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone α-glutamate; - α-Aspartate of 3β-O-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-Hemisuccinoyloxyandrost-5-ene-7,17-dione; - 3β-O- (2-hydroxy-malonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (2-malonyl-amino-carbonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (2-succinyl-amino-carbonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (2-glutaryl-amino-carbonyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-methylcarbonate-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (trifluroacetyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (4-carboxy-butanoyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (4-cyclopentyl-butanoyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-benzoyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (3,4-dihyroxy-benzoyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (ascorbyl phosphate) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (ascorbyl-sulfate) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-phosphonyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-monoacetyl-phosphonyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-sulfonyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (tert-butyl-dimethyl-silyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (tert-butyl-diphenyl-silyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O- (trimethyl silyl) -7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone; - Δ5-androstene-3β, 7β-dihydroxy-17-dione or 7β-OH-dehydroepiandrosterone (7β-hydroxy-DHEA); - Δ5-androstene-3β, 7α-dihydroxy-17-dione or 7α-OH-dehydroepiandrosterone (7α-hydroxy-DHEA); - 3β-O-acetyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone (3-beta-acetoxy-7-hydroxy-DHEA); - 3β-O-propionyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone (3-beta-propionyloxy-7-hydroxy-DHEA); - 3β-O-butanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone (3-beta-butanoyloxy-7-hydroxy-DHEA); - 3β-O-iso-butanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-pentanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-hexanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-heptanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-octanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-nonanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-decanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-dodecanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-myristoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-palmitoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-stearoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-arachidoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-docosanoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-lignoceroyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-oleoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-linoleoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-linolenoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-petroselinoyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-hydroxy-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-acetyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-propionyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-butanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-iso-butanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-pentanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-hexanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-heptanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-octanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-nonanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-decanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-dodecanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-myristoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-palmitoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-stearoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-arachidoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-docosanoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-lignoceroyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-oleoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-linoleoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-linolenoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone; - 3β-O-acetyl-7-O-petroselinoyl-dehydroepiandrosterone. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 and 8, characterized in that the DHEA derivative of formula (I) is chosen from at least one of the following derivatives: - Δ5-androstene-3β-hydroxy-7,17-dione or 7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (7-oxo-DHEA); - 3β-O-acetyl-7-oxo-dehydroepiandrosterone (or 3β-acetoxy-7-oxo-DHEΞA); - Δ5-androstene-3β, 7α-dihydroxy-17-dione or 7α-OH-dehydroepiandrosterone (7α-hydroxy-DHEA). 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases is chosen from at least one of the following substances: - pentacyclic triterpenes and plant extracts containing them; extracts of Paeonia suffruticosa; - extracts of Paeonia lactiflora; phycosaccharides ,; - Canola oil; - Tamanu oil; calophillum oil; - alphabisabolol; chamomile extracts; allantoin; - The diesterphosphoric acid of vitamin E and C. - oils unsaturated in omega 3 such as oils of rose musca, blackcurrant oils, ecchium oils, fish oils; - Plankton extracts; - sodium palmitoylproline and nymphea alba; -. extracts from the pygeum; - Boswellia serrata extracts; - Centipeda cunnighami extracts; - Extracts of Helianthus annuus; - Linum usitatissimum extracts; - tocotrienols; - extracts of Cola nitida; - the piperonal; - clove extracts; - willowherb extracts (Epilobium angustifolium); - Aloe vera extracts. 11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases is chosen from at least one of the following substances: - extracts of Glycyrrhiza glabra, oleanolic acid and its salts; ursolic acid and its salts; boswellic acid and its salts; betullic acid and its salts; β glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts and / or its derivatives such as glycyrrhetic monoglucuronide acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, 3-stearoyloxy glycyrrhetic acid; extracts of Paeonia suffruticosa; extracts of Paeonia lactiflora; - phycosaccharides; - calophillum oil; - alphabisabolol; chamomile extracts; - allantoin; - tocotrienols; - Aloe vera extracts. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, of DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in one of claims 1 to 9, relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains from 0.01% to 5% by weight, of DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in one of claims 1 to 9, by relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, of agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains from 0.001 to 5% by weight, of agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. Cosmetic use of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 with at least agent capable of inhibiting at at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, for soothing the skin and / or the scalp. 17. Cosmetic use of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 with at least agent capable of inhibiting at minus one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases, to prevent and / or treat sensitive skin and / or skin discomfort and / or skin tightness and / or skin itching and / or skin irritations and / or skin swelling and / or skin redness and / or feelings of skin heat. 18. Cosmetic use as a soothing agent, by topical application to the skin and / or the scalp, of the combination comprising at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases. 19. Cosmetic use as an agent to prevent and / or treat sensitive skin, skin discomfort, skin tightness, itchy skin, skin irritation, skin swelling, skin rash and / or feelings of heat cutaneous, by topical application to the skin and / or leather, of the combination comprising at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 with at least one agent capable to inhibit at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases. 20. Cosmetic treatment method soothing keratin materials by topical application to them of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases. 21. Cosmetic treatment process for sensitive skin, skin discomfort, skin tightness, itching of the skin, skin irritations, swelling of the skin, redness of the skin, sensations of skin heat including topical application to the skin or the scalp of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one DHEA derivative of formula (I) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 with at least one agent capable of inhibiting at at least one enzyme chosen from phospholipases A2, lipoxygenases and / or human prostaglandins synthetases.