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WO2001051011A2 - Produits de condensation de proteines, a base d'acide azelaique - Google Patents

Produits de condensation de proteines, a base d'acide azelaique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2001051011A2
WO2001051011A2 PCT/EP2000/013264 EP0013264W WO0151011A2 WO 2001051011 A2 WO2001051011 A2 WO 2001051011A2 EP 0013264 W EP0013264 W EP 0013264W WO 0151011 A2 WO0151011 A2 WO 0151011A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
acid
derivatives
oil
fatty
proteins
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP2000/013264
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German (de)
English (en)
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WO2001051011A3 (fr
Inventor
Gisbert SCHÄFER
Andreas Sander
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Original Assignee
Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
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Publication of WO2001051011A2 publication Critical patent/WO2001051011A2/fr
Publication of WO2001051011A3 publication Critical patent/WO2001051011A3/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07K—PEPTIDES
    • C07K2/00—Peptides of undefined number of amino acids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K38/00—Medicinal preparations containing peptides
    • A61K38/01—Hydrolysed proteins; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07K—PEPTIDES
    • C07K1/00—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length
    • C07K1/107—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides
    • C07K1/1072—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides by covalent attachment of residues or functional groups
    • C07K1/1077—General methods for the preparation of peptides, i.e. processes for the organic chemical preparation of peptides or proteins of any length by chemical modification of precursor peptides by covalent attachment of residues or functional groups by covalent attachment of residues other than amino acids or peptide residues, e.g. sugars, polyols, fatty acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of anionic surfactants and relates to new protein fatty acid condensates based on azelaic acid, a process for their preparation and their use in cosmetics and pharmacy.
  • acne the specialist subsumes a skin disease that occurs in very different forms and can have different causes. As a rule, it is characterized by non-inflammatory or even inflammatory nodules that originate from blocked hair follicles (comedones) and can ultimately lead to pustules, abscesses or scars.
  • the most common diagnosis is acne vulga ⁇ s, which mainly occurs during puberty.
  • the causes here are cornification and constipation of the hair follicle mouth, the production of taig depending on the blood level of the male sex hormones, the production of free fatty acids and tissue-damaging enzymes by bacteria, such as Propioniumbacterium acnes.
  • Azelaic acid has, however, proven to be a particularly effective anti-acne active ingredient, as is described, for example, in US Pat. No. 4,386,104 (Schering).
  • the disadvantage here is that azelaic acid, especially in higher concentrations, cannot be incorporated stably into formulations and, because of the unprotected acid group, can cause skin irritation again.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide new derivatives of azelaic acid which are at least comparable in their anti-inflammatory and anti-acne effects to the pure acid, but reliably avoid the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • the invention relates to condensation products of proteins and / or protein hydrolyzates with azelaic acid.
  • the new condensation products have the same anti-inflammatory and anti-acne properties as the pure acid, but are additionally active as anionic emulsifiers and can thus be incorporated into preparations in higher concentrations and can also be incorporated in the process prove stable in case of temperature stress.
  • Protein hydrolyzates are degradation products of animal or vegetable proteins, for example collagen, elastin or keratin and preferably almond and potato protein, and in particular wheat, rice, pea, silk and soy protein, which are cleaved by acidic, alkaline and / or enzymatic hydrolysis and then have an average molecular weight in the range of 600 to 4,000, preferably 2,000 to 3,500. Accordingly, protein hydrolyzates are oligopeptides. Overviews of the production and use of protein hydrolyzates are, for example, from G. Schuster and A.
  • the condensation of the proteins or protein hydrolyzates can be carried out in a manner known per se, azeiaic acid chloride is preferably used.
  • azeiaic acid chloride is preferably used.
  • the reaction which is a Schotten-Baumann acylation, usually takes place at temperatures in the range from 30 to 80 and in particular 50 to 60 ° C., at a pH in the range from 8 to 12, where it is known as has proven to be particularly advantageous - based on the basic nitrogen of the protein component - from 0.1 to 2 and preferably from 0.4 to 1.6 mol equivalents of azelaic acid derivative.
  • the condensation products are preferably passed through Addition of bases neutralizes and are then present as alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium salts, especially as sodium or potassium salts.
  • the new condensation products are particularly suitable for use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
  • Another object of the invention therefore relates to their use for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations in which they can be present in amounts of 0.1 to 50, preferably 1 to 25 and in particular 5 to 10% by weight.
  • the new anionic surfactants have a tyrosine-inhibiting effect
  • another object of the invention relates to their use as depigmenting agents. While azelaic acid is known for use in pharmacy, but it is difficult to incorporate it in stable form into preparations, especially in large quantities, these disadvantages are reliably overcome by using the new condensation products. Accordingly, further objects of the invention relate to their use as an anti-inflammatory active ingredient and for the manufacture of a medicament for acne, especially acne vulgaris.
  • the anionic surfactants according to the invention can be used to produce cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or Serve ointments.
  • cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as, for example, hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or Serve ointments.
  • agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, co-emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, antiperspirants, Antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), solubilizers, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • mild surfactants oil bodies, co-emulsifiers, superfatting agents, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, stabilizers, biogenic agents, deodorants, antiperspirants, Antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, UV light
  • Suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -Oiefinsulfonate, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides and / or alkyl amidobetaines.
  • esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl malates
  • esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols are suitable (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ⁇ -Cio fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C ⁇ s fatty acids, esters of C6-C 2 2- Fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-Ci2-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as squalane , Squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • suitable co-emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerin (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out.
  • Ci2 / ⁇ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Partialgiyceride hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid diglyceride hydroxy, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, Linolklamonoglycerid, Linoiklaklare- diglyceride, LinolenTalkremonoglycerid, Linolenchurediglycerid, Erucaklaklamonoglycerid, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, ⁇ ⁇ mono acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid ediglyceride as well as their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, mol of
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyearylate-3 (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL) , Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Is
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazoiine each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glyc
  • fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are before understood surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs / . ⁇ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S ⁇ 3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12 / i ⁇ -acylsarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or aeylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (eg Carbopole® from Goodrich or Synthalene® from Sigma), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, Fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.
  • Aerosil types hydrophilic silicas
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, e.g. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g.
  • Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized Koliagenpolypept.de, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. Amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, e.g.
  • cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, condensation products of dihaloalkylene, such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane, cationic guar gum, e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.
  • dihaloalkylene such as e.g. Dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, e.g. Bis-dimethylamino-1, 3-propane
  • cationic guar gum e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese
  • quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as e.g. Mira
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / Vinyiacrylat copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl / Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert.butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, natural waxes such as candelilla wax, carpina wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice, etc. are used as waxes.
  • lecithins In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC).
  • PC phosphatidylcholines
  • Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • glycerol phosphates glycerol phosphates
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as.
  • Esterase inhibitors are, for example, suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • esterase inhibitors include sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, adipic acid - Acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, adipic acid - Acid monoethyl ester, adipic acid die
  • Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
  • Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone
  • the alcohols are anethole, citronellellone Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
  • non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with amino acids such as glycine.
  • customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
  • Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. his:
  • water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Octopirox® (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1 H) -pyridone monoethanolamine salt
  • Baypival Pirocton Olamin
  • Ketoconazol® (4th -acetyl-1 - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4-dichloro- phenyl) r-2- (1 H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfuric rinole polyethoxate, sulfur tar distillates or in combination, salicylic acid Hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate, zinc pyrethione, aluminum pyr
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ® HEB);
  • UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoyl-methane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
  • the pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW-Journal 122, 543 (1996).
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g.
  • Carotenoids eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene
  • chlorogenic acid and their derivatives eg dihydroliponic acid
  • auro- thioglucose propylthiouracil and and are thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl -, ⁇ - linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthionocinsulphoxinoxides homophysinoxysulfoximines, - sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine
  • very low tolerable doses e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g.
  • citric acid citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid re and their derivatives ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamm or 2-amino-1,3-propanedol
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.
  • NN-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or Ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate in question, dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanning agent.
  • tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents are arbutin, kojic acid, cumaic acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C)
  • Perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of bleeds (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchou, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, cumin) , Juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, ins calmus), woods (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grassers ( Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, Li nalylacetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethylacetate, linalylbenzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate and benzylsalicylate.
  • benzylethyl ether the aldehydes such as citric acid; , to the ketones eg the ionones, ⁇ -isomethyionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams Fragrances used, which together produce an appealing fragrance.
  • essential oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, e.g.
  • sage oil chamomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil l, linden blutenol, juniper berry oil, vetiverol, olibanol, galbanumol, labolanumol and lavandinol.
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the agents can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.
  • Example H2 was repeated, but the nitrogen content was adjusted to a value of 1.6 molar equivalents

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des produits de condensation de protéines et/ou d'hydrolysats de protéine, à base d'acide azélaïque.
PCT/EP2000/013264 2000-01-08 2000-12-23 Produits de condensation de proteines, a base d'acide azelaique Ceased WO2001051011A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE10000493.8 2000-01-08
DE2000100493 DE10000493A1 (de) 2000-01-08 2000-01-08 Kondensationsprodukte von Proteinen mit Azelainsäure

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WO2001051011A2 true WO2001051011A2 (fr) 2001-07-19
WO2001051011A3 WO2001051011A3 (fr) 2002-04-11

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003063816A1 (fr) * 2002-01-30 2003-08-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions contenant une proteine hydrolysee pour soins topiques de la peau et/ou des cheveux
EP1771409A1 (fr) * 2004-07-30 2007-04-11 Maycos Italiana di Comini Miro & C. S.A.S. Derives n-acyles d'acides dicarboxyliques avec des acides amines et des hydrolysats proteiques vegetaux et leur utilisation dans des produits cosmetiques et pharmaceutiques

Family Cites Families (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2322783A (en) * 1941-08-23 1943-06-29 Emulsol Corp Preparation of amides
DD218271A1 (de) * 1983-06-24 1985-02-06 Oel U Margarine Magdeburg Veb Verfahren zur herstellung von fettemulsionen
JP2788467B2 (ja) * 1989-02-07 1998-08-20 株式会社成和化成 脱臭剤組成物
BE1006974A3 (fr) * 1993-04-23 1995-02-07 Anda Biolog Sa Procede de detection et/ou de quantification de differentes classes d'immunoglobulines specifiques d'une pathologie comportant une reponse auto-immunitaire.
DE4343431C1 (de) * 1993-12-18 1995-05-04 Henkel Kgaa Kosmetische und/oder pharamzeutische Zubereitungen
EP0966268B1 (fr) * 1997-07-15 2003-05-21 Coletica Particules, en particulier micro- ou nanoparticules de proteines vegetales reticulees, leur procede de preparation et compositions cosmetiques, pharmaceutiques ou alimentaires en contenant

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2003063816A1 (fr) * 2002-01-30 2003-08-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions contenant une proteine hydrolysee pour soins topiques de la peau et/ou des cheveux
CN1313073C (zh) * 2002-01-30 2007-05-02 宝洁公司 包含水解蛋白质的局部用皮肤和/或毛发组合物
EP1771409A1 (fr) * 2004-07-30 2007-04-11 Maycos Italiana di Comini Miro & C. S.A.S. Derives n-acyles d'acides dicarboxyliques avec des acides amines et des hydrolysats proteiques vegetaux et leur utilisation dans des produits cosmetiques et pharmaceutiques

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WO2001051011A3 (fr) 2002-04-11

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