WO1999020597A1 - Novel aminophenol derivatives and the use thereof for dyeing keratin fibres - Google Patents
Novel aminophenol derivatives and the use thereof for dyeing keratin fibres Download PDFInfo
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- WO1999020597A1 WO1999020597A1 PCT/EP1998/006447 EP9806447W WO9920597A1 WO 1999020597 A1 WO1999020597 A1 WO 1999020597A1 EP 9806447 W EP9806447 W EP 9806447W WO 9920597 A1 WO9920597 A1 WO 9920597A1
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- group
- aminophenol
- alkyl group
- aminophenol derivatives
- oxidation
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/415—Aminophenols
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- C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
- C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
- C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
- C07C217/00—Compounds containing amino and etherified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton
- C07C217/78—Compounds containing amino and etherified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton having amino groups and etherified hydroxy groups bound to carbon atoms of six-membered aromatic rings of the same carbon skeleton
- C07C217/80—Compounds containing amino and etherified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton having amino groups and etherified hydroxy groups bound to carbon atoms of six-membered aromatic rings of the same carbon skeleton having amino groups and etherified hydroxy groups bound to carbon atoms of non-condensed six-membered aromatic rings
- C07C217/82—Compounds containing amino and etherified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton having amino groups and etherified hydroxy groups bound to carbon atoms of six-membered aromatic rings of the same carbon skeleton having amino groups and etherified hydroxy groups bound to carbon atoms of non-condensed six-membered aromatic rings of the same non-condensed six-membered aromatic ring
- C07C217/84—Compounds containing amino and etherified hydroxy groups bound to the same carbon skeleton having amino groups and etherified hydroxy groups bound to carbon atoms of six-membered aromatic rings of the same carbon skeleton having amino groups and etherified hydroxy groups bound to carbon atoms of non-condensed six-membered aromatic rings of the same non-condensed six-membered aromatic ring the oxygen atom of at least one of the etherified hydroxy groups being further bound to an acyclic carbon atom
Definitions
- the invention relates to new aminophenol derivatives, their use for dyeing keratin fibers and dyes containing these compounds.
- oxidation colorants For dyeing keratin fibers, especially human hair, the so-called oxidation colorants play a preferred role because of their intense colors and good fastness properties.
- colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components.
- developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more coupler components.
- Good oxidation dye precursors must first of all meet the following requirements: they must develop the desired color shades with sufficient intensity and authenticity in the oxidative coupling. They must also have a good ability to draw onto the fiber, whereby there must be no noticeable differences between stressed and freshly regrown hair, especially with human hair (leveling ability). They should be resistant to light, heat and the influence of chemical reducing agents, e.g. B. against perm fluids. After all, if they are used as a hair dye, they should not stain the scalp too much, and above all they should be harmless from a toxicological and dermatological point of view.
- Preferred developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1 - ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( 2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, l-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-pyrazolone-5, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2 - On nomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diammopyrr
- M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are generally used as coupler components.
- 1-Naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinomino methyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, l-phenyl are particularly suitable as coupler substances -3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, l, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chloro-resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol, 2-chloro -6-methy 1-3 -aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcino
- a first subject of the present invention are therefore aminophenol derivatives of the general formula (I)
- R 1 and R 2 are (a) an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or (b) an alkoxy group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with the proviso that in each case exactly one substituent from the group (a ) and exactly one substituent from group (b) is represented and R 3 stands for
- R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , R 8 , R 10 and R 11 are independently hydrogen, a C M alkyl group, a C hydroxy alkyl group and R 5 and R 6 , R 7 and R 8 as well as R 10 and R 11 each together with the nitrogen atom carrying them can also be part of a morpholino, piperidino or pyrrolidino radical and R 5 can also represent a group -SO 2 -CH 3 with the proviso that R 6 stands for hydrogen, and R 9 stands for hydrogen or a C M alkyl group, and their water-soluble salts.
- R 1 is a substituent selected from group (a) and R 2 is a substituent selected from group (b).
- Aminophenol derivatives of the formula (I) in which R 3 represents a C r to C 4 alkyl group, in particular hydrogen, are particularly preferred.
- aminophenol derivatives according to formula (I) in which R 1 represents a methyl group and R 2 represents a methoxy group.
- Particularly preferred compounds for the purposes of the present invention are 6-methoxy-2-methyl-3-aminophenol and 6-methoxy-2-methyl-3- ( ⁇ -hydroxyethylamino) phenol.
- a second object of the present invention is the use of the aforementioned aminophenol derivatives as a coupler component in oxidation hair colorants.
- a third object of the present invention are oxidation coloring agents for dyeing keratin fibers containing coupler components and developer components in a water-containing carrier, which contains one of the aforementioned aminophenol derivatives as the coupler component.
- Keratin fibers in the sense of the present application are to be understood as furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair.
- the oxidation colorants according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, there is in principle nothing to prevent their use in other areas, particularly in color photography.
- the oxidation colorants according to the invention can contain one or more developer components and, if desired, further coupler components in addition to the coupler components according to the invention.
- further developer and coupler components reference is made to the substances listed at the beginning of the description, which are preferred further dye components.
- developer components are 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 1 - ( ⁇ -hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 3-methyl-p-aminophenol, 2- Hydroxy-methyl-p-aminophenol and 2-aminomethyl-p-aminophenol.
- 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinomino methyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, l-phenyl are particularly suitable as coupler components -3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, l, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chloro-resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol, 2-chloro -6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol o-aminophenol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2, 6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-
- the hair colorants according to the invention preferably contain both the developer components and the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total oxidation colorant.
- Developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to one another. If the molar use has also proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components can be present in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 2.
- the hair colorants according to the invention contain, in addition to the oxidation dye precursors, customary direct dyes, for example from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as, for example, under the international names or trade names HC, in addition to the oxidation dye precursors Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds, as well as 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2 '-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1 , 2,3, 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl 1-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol
- preparations according to the invention can also contain naturally occurring dyes such as, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root.
- naturally occurring dyes such as, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root.
- oxidation dye precursors or the optional direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production processes for the individual dyes, further components may also be present in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
- the oxidation dye precursors are incorporated into a suitable water-containing carrier.
- suitable water-containing carrier are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or also surfactant-containing foaming solutions, for example shampoos, aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
- the colorants according to the invention can contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known in such preparations.
- the colorants contain at least one surfactant, both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proven advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
- Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
- the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups.
- suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
- Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
- Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
- Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO - or -SO group in the molecule.
- Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.
- a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name
- Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C g . lg - alkyl or acyl group in the molecule contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO H group and
- ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
- Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C -acylsarcosine.
- Nonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group.
- B a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.
- Such connections are, for example
- cationic surfactants which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds.
- Ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B.
- cetyltrimethylammonium chloride cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, methyl l-alkylamidoemyl-2-alkylimidazolium -nium methosulfate and tricetylmethylammonium chloride.
- the quaternized protein hydrolysates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.
- cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abü ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).
- alkylamidoamines especially fatty acid amidoamines such as the stearylamidopropyldimethylamine available under the name Tego Amid ® S 18, are characterized in particular by their good biodegradability.
- esterquats such as those sold under the trademark Stepantex ® are methyl hydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkyl-methosulfates.
- An example of a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercial product Glucquat ® 100, according to CTFA nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride”.
- the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
- both products with a "normal” homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used.
- “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts when fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide are reacted using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates.
- narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
- Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, polydimethylsiloxanes, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic acid and anhydride polyesters, non-crosslinked polymers, non-copolymerized copolymers, non-copolymerized copolymers Acryl amidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl memacrylate / tert-butyl.arninoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, Vinylpyrrolidone
- Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, gelatin, pectins, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as.
- B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol and polyacrylamide structurants such as maleic acid, mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
- Solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, dyes for coloring the agent,
- Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol, other substances for adjusting the pH, animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein, almond protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, and their fatty acid condensation products and quaternized derivatives,
- Vitamins and vitamin precursors such as panthenol, its derivatives and biotin, plant and honey extracts, such as in particular extracts from oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, Wheat, Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, hake, meristem, ginseng and ginger root, other active ingredients such as ceramides, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, and bisabolol, light stabilizers,
- Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, fatty acid alkanolamides,
- Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
- Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, reducing agents and stabilizers such as e.g. Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and ⁇ -mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, as well as ascorbic acid, sulfites and dithionites,
- pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate
- complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids
- reducing agents and stabilizers such as e.g. Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid
- Blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , N 2 and air as well
- the constituents of the water-containing carrier are used to produce the colorants according to the invention in amounts customary for this purpose;
- emulsifiers are used in concentrations of 0.5 to 30% by weight and thickeners in concentrations of 0.1 to 25% by weight of the total colorant.
- the oxidative development of the coloring can take place with atmospheric oxygen.
- a chemical oxidizing agent is preferably used, especially when, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired.
- Persulfates, chlorites and in particular hydrogen peroxide or their adducts with urea, melamine and potassium and sodium borate are suitable as oxidizing agents. It is also possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes.
- the enzymes can be used to transfer atmospheric oxygen to the developer component or to enhance the effect of small amounts of oxidizing agents present.
- An example of an enzymatic process is the procedure to increase the effect of small amounts (eg 1% by weight and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
- the preparation of the oxidizing agent is expediently mixed with the preparation from the oxidation dye precursors immediately before hair coloring.
- the resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. It is particularly preferred to use the hair dye in a weakly alkaline environment.
- the application temperatures can range between 15 and 40 ° C. After an exposure time of approx. 30 minutes, the hair dye is removed from the hair to be colored by rinsing. Washing with a shampoo is not necessary if a carrier with a high tenside content, e.g. a coloring shampoo was used.
- Cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 20 mol EO (CTFA name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL)
- Coupler component 7.5 mmol Na SO (inhibitor) 1.0
- the ingredients were mixed together in order. After the oxidation dye precursors and the inhibitor had been added, the pH of the emulsion was first adjusted to 10 using concentrated ammonia solution, and the mixture was then made up to 100 g with water.
- the oxidative development of the color was carried out using 3% by weight hydrogen peroxide solution as the oxidation solution.
- 100 g of the emulsion were mixed with 50 g of hydrogen peroxide solution (3% by weight) and mixed.
- the coloring cream was applied to approx. 5 cm long strands of standardized, 90% gray, but not specially pretreated human hair and left there at 32 ° C for 30 minutes. After the dyeing process was completed, the hair was rinsed, washed with a conventional shampoo and then dried.
- the following coupler and developer components were used for the coloring:
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Abstract
Description
NEUE AMINOPHENOL -DERIVATE UND DEREN VERWENDUNG ZUM FÄRBEN VON KERANTINFASERNNEW AMINOPHENOL DERIVATIVES AND THEIR USE FOR DYING KERANTINE FIBERS
Die Erfindung betrifft neue Aminophenol-Derivate, deren Verwendung zum Färben von Keratinfasern sowie diese Verbindungen enthaltende Färbemittel.The invention relates to new aminophenol derivatives, their use for dyeing keratin fibers and dyes containing these compounds.
Für das Färben von Keratinfasern, insbesondere menschlichen Haaren, spielen die sogenannten Oxidationsfarbemittel wegen ihrer intensiven Farben und guten Echtheitseigenschaften eine bevorzugte Rolle. Solche Färbemittel enthalten Oxidations- farbstoffvorprodukte, sogenannte Entwicklerkomponenten und Kupplerkomponenten. Die Entwicklerkomponenten bilden unter dem Einfluß von Oxidationsmitteln oder von Luftsauerstoff untereinander oder unter Kupplung mit einer oder mehreren Kupplerkomponenten die eigentlichen Farbstoffe aus.For dyeing keratin fibers, especially human hair, the so-called oxidation colorants play a preferred role because of their intense colors and good fastness properties. Such colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or atmospheric oxygen with one another or under coupling with one or more coupler components.
Gute Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte müssen in erster Linie folgende Voraussetzungen erfüllen: Sie müssen bei der oxidativen Kupplung die gewünschten Farbnuancen in ausreichender Intensität und Echtheit ausbilden. Sie müssen ferner ein gutes Aufziehvermögen auf die Faser besitzen, wobei insbesondere bei menschlichen Haaren keine merklichen Unterschiede zwischen strapaziertem und frisch nachgewachsenem Haar bestehen dürfen (Egalisiervermögen). Sie sollen beständig sein gegen Licht, Wärme und den Einfluß chemischer Reduktionsmittel, z. B. gegen Dauerwellflüssigkeiten. Schließlich sollen sie - falls als Haarfärbemittel zur Anwendung kommend - die Kopfhaut nicht zu sehr anfärben, und vor allem sollen sie in toxikologischer und dermatologischer Hinsicht unbedenklich sein.Good oxidation dye precursors must first of all meet the following requirements: they must develop the desired color shades with sufficient intensity and authenticity in the oxidative coupling. They must also have a good ability to draw onto the fiber, whereby there must be no noticeable differences between stressed and freshly regrown hair, especially with human hair (leveling ability). They should be resistant to light, heat and the influence of chemical reducing agents, e.g. B. against perm fluids. After all, if they are used as a hair dye, they should not stain the scalp too much, and above all they should be harmless from a toxicological and dermatological point of view.
Als Entwicklerkomponenten werden üblicherweise primäre aromatische Arnine mit einer weiteren, in para- oder ortho-Position befindlichen, freien oder substituierten Hydroxy- oder Aminogruppe, Diaminopyridinderivate, heterocyclische Hydrazone, 4- Aminopyrazolonderivate sowie 2,4,5, 6-Tetraaminopyrimidin und dessen Derivate eingesetzt.Primary aromatic amines with a further free or substituted hydroxy or amino group in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4- Aminopyrazolone derivatives and 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives are used.
Bevorzugte Entwicklerkomponenten sind p-Phenylendiamin, p-Toluylendiamin, p- Aminophenol, 1 -(ß-Hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzol, N,N-Bis-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)-p- phenylendiamin, 2-(2,5-Diaminophenoxy)-ethanol, 4,5-Diamino- 1 -(2-hydroxyethyl)- pyrazol, l-Phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-pyrazolon-5, 4-Amino-3-methylphenol, 2- An nomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-Hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-Aminomethyl-4- aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-Tetraaminopyrimidin, 2-Hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidin, 4- Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidin, 2,4-Dihydroxy-5,6-diammopyrrmidin, 2-Dimethyl- amino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidin, 2-Hydroxyethylaminomethyl-4-amino-phenol, 1 ,3-Bis- [N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(4-aminophenyl)-amino]-2-propanol sowie 4,4'-Diamino- diphenylamin.Preferred developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1 - (β-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- ( 2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4,5-diamino-1 - (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, l-phenyl-3-carboxyamido-4-amino-pyrazolone-5, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2 - On nomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diammopyrrmidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxyethylaminomethyl-4-amino-phenol, 1,3-bis- [N- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N- (4-aminophenyl) amino] -2-propanol and 4,4'-diamino-diphenylamine.
Als Kupplerkomponenten werden in der Regel m-Phenylendiaminderivate, Naphthole, Resorcin und Resorcinderivate, Pyrazolone und m-Aminophenole verwendet. Als Kupplersubstanzen eignen sich insbesondere 1-Naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- und 1,7- Dihydroxynaphthalin, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, m-Aminophenol, Resorcin, Resor- cinmonomethylether, m-Phenylendiamin, l-Phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolon-5, 2,4-Dichlor- 3 -aminophenol, l,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 2-Chlor-resorcin, 4-Chlor- resorcin, 2-Chlor-6-methy 1-3 -aminophenol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 2-Methylresor- cin, 5-Methylresorcin o-Aminophenol, 2,5-Dimethylresorcin, 2,6-Dihydroxypyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3 ,4-dimethylpyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl- pyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Bis-(2-hydroxyethylamino)- toluol, 2,4-Diaminophenoxy-ethanol und 2-An ino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisol.M-Phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenols are generally used as coupler components. 1-Naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinomino methyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, l-phenyl are particularly suitable as coupler substances -3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, l, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chloro-resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol, 2-chloro -6-methy 1-3 -aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol o-aminophenol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2 , 6-dihydroxy-3, 4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 2nd , 4-diaminophenoxyethanol and 2-an ino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisole.
Allein mit einer Entwicklerkomponente oder einer speziellen Kuppler/Entwickler- Kombination gelingt es in der Regel nicht, eine auf dem Haar natürlich wirkende Farbnuance zu erhalten. In der Praxis werden daher üblicherweise Kombinationen verschiedener Entwickler- und/ oder Kupplerkomponenten eingesetzt. Es besteht daher ständig Bed.arf .an neuen, verbesserten Farbstoff-Komponenten. Es war -daher die Aufgabe der vorliegenden Erfindung, neue Kuppler-Komponenten zu finden, die die an Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte zu stellenden Anforderungen in besonderem Maße erfüllen.With a developer component or a special coupler / developer combination alone, it is usually not possible to obtain a color shade that looks natural on the hair. In practice, therefore, combinations of different developer and / or coupler components are usually used. There is therefore a constant need for new, improved dye components. It was therefore the object of the present invention to find new coupler components which meet the requirements placed on oxidation dye precursors to a particular degree.
Es wurde nun gefunden, daß bestimmte Aminophenol-Derivate die an Kupplerkomponenten gestellten Anforderungen in hohem Maße erfüllen. So werden unter Verwendung dieser Kupplerkomponenten mit den meisten bekannten Entwicklerkomponenten brillante rote bis magentafarbene Farbnuancen erhalten, die außerordentlich licht- und waschecht sind.It has now been found that certain aminophenol derivatives meet the requirements imposed on coupler components to a high degree. Thus, using these coupler components with most known developer components, brilliant red to magenta color shades are obtained, which are extraordinarily lightfast and washable.
Ein erster Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung sind daher Aminophenol-Derivate der allgemeinen Formel (I),A first subject of the present invention are therefore aminophenol derivatives of the general formula (I)
in der R1 und R2 (a) für eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen oder (b) für eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 4 C-Atomen stehen, mit der Maßgabe, daß jeweils genau ein Substituent aus der Gruppe (a) und genau ein Substituent aus der Gruppe (b) vertreten ist und R3 steht für in which R 1 and R 2 are (a) an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or (b) an alkoxy group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, with the proviso that in each case exactly one substituent from the group (a ) and exactly one substituent from group (b) is represented and R 3 stands for
- Wasserstoff,- hydrogen,
- eine Cr bis C4-Alkylgruppe,a C r to C 4 alkyl group,
- eine C^-Dihydroxyalkylgruppe,a C ^ -dihydroxyalkyl group,
- eine Methylgruppe, die 1 - 3 Halogenatome, insbesondere Fluoratome, als Substi- tuenten trägt,a methyl group which carries 1 to 3 halogen atoms, in particular fluorine atoms, as substituents,
- eine C-^-Alkylgruppe mit maximal 1 - 4 Halogenatomen, insbesondere Fluoratomen, als Substituenten- A C - ^ - alkyl group with a maximum of 1 - 4 halogen atoms, especially fluorine atoms, as substituents
- eine Gruppe -(CH2)X-B, in der B steht für- a group - (CH 2 ) X -B, in which B stands for
- eine Hydroxygruppe,- a hydroxy group,
- eine Gruppe NR5R6 oder - eine Gruppe CO-NR7R8und x für eine Zahl von 1 bis 4,- a group NR 5 R 6 or a group CO-NR 7 R 8 and x for a number from 1 to 4,
- eine Gruppe -COOR9 oder- a group -COOR 9 or
- eine Gruppe -CO-NR,0Rπ , wobei R5, R6, R7, R8, R10 und R11 unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff, eine CM-Alkylgruppe, eine C -Hydroxyalkylgruppe und R5 und R6, R7 und R8 sowie R10 und R11 jeweils zusammen mit dem sie tragenden Stickstoffatom auch Teil eines Morpholino-, Piperidino- oder Pyrrolidino-Restes sein können und R5 auch für eine Gruppe -SO2-CH3 stehen kann mit der Maßgabe, daß dann R6 für Wasserstoff steht, und R9 steht für Wasserstoff oder eine CM-Alkylgruppe, sowie deren wasserlösliche Salze.- A group -CO-NR , 0 R π , where R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , R 8 , R 10 and R 11 are independently hydrogen, a C M alkyl group, a C hydroxy alkyl group and R 5 and R 6 , R 7 and R 8 as well as R 10 and R 11 each together with the nitrogen atom carrying them can also be part of a morpholino, piperidino or pyrrolidino radical and R 5 can also represent a group -SO 2 -CH 3 with the proviso that R 6 stands for hydrogen, and R 9 stands for hydrogen or a C M alkyl group, and their water-soluble salts.
Bevorzugt im Sinne der vorliegenden Anmeldung sind Aminophenol-Derivate bei denen R1 für einen Substituenten ausgewählt aus der Gruppe (a) und R2 für einen Substituenten ausgewählt aus der Gruppe (b) steht.For the purposes of the present application, preference is given to aminophenol derivatives in which R 1 is a substituent selected from group (a) and R 2 is a substituent selected from group (b).
Besonders bevorzugt sind Aminophenol-Derivate gemäß Formel (I), bei denen R3 für eine Cr bis C4-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere für Wasserstoff steht.Aminophenol derivatives of the formula (I) in which R 3 represents a C r to C 4 alkyl group, in particular hydrogen, are particularly preferred.
Weiterhin besonders bevorzugt sind Aminophenol-Derivate gemäß Formel (I), bei denen R1 für eine Methylgruppe und R2 für eine Methoxygruppe steht.Also particularly preferred are aminophenol derivatives according to formula (I) in which R 1 represents a methyl group and R 2 represents a methoxy group.
Besonders bevorzugte Verbindungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind 6- Methoxy-2-methyl-3-aminophenol und 6-Methoxy-2-methyl-3-(ß-hydroxyethyl- amino)-phenol.Particularly preferred compounds for the purposes of the present invention are 6-methoxy-2-methyl-3-aminophenol and 6-methoxy-2-methyl-3- (β-hydroxyethylamino) phenol.
Die Herstellung dieser Verbindungen erfolgt ausgehend von den entsprechend substituierten Nitrophenolen (bekannt aus Eur. J. Med. Chem. (1995), 185) durch Hydrierung und eventuell anschließende Alkylierung oder Acylierung. Bezüglich Einzelheiten wird auf das im Beispielteil ausführlich dargestellten Synthesebeispiel verwiesen. Da es sich bei allen erfindungsgemäßen Substanzen um Amino- Verbindungen handelt, lassen sich aus diesen in üblicher Weise die bekannten Säureadditionssalze herstellen. Alle Aussagen dieser Schrift und demgemäß der beanspruchte Schutzbereich beziehen sich daher sowohl auf die in freier Form vorliegenden Aminophenol-Derivate gemäß Formel (I) als auch auf deren wasserlösliche, physiologisch verträgliche Salze. Beispiele für solche Salze sind die Hydrochloride, die Hydrobromide, die Sulfate, die Phosphate, die Acetate, die Propionate, die Citrate und die Lactate.These compounds are prepared starting from the appropriately substituted nitrophenols (known from Eur. J. Med. Chem. (1995), 185) by hydrogenation and possibly subsequent alkylation or acylation. For details, reference is made to the synthesis example detailed in the example section. Since all of the substances according to the invention are amino compounds, the known acid addition salts can be prepared from them in a conventional manner. All statements in this document and accordingly the claimed scope of protection therefore relate both to the aminophenol derivatives of the formula (I) present in free form and to their water-soluble, physiologically tolerable salts. Examples of such salts are the hydrochlorides, the hydrobromides, the sulfates, the phosphates, the acetates, the propionates, the citrates and the lactates.
Ein zweiter Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist die Verwendung der vorgenannten Aminophenol-Derivate als Kupplerkomponente in Oxidationshaarfarbemitteln.A second object of the present invention is the use of the aforementioned aminophenol derivatives as a coupler component in oxidation hair colorants.
Ein dritter Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung sind schließlich Oxidationsfar- bemittel zum Färben von Keratinfasern enthaltend Kupplerkomponenten und Entwicklerkomponenten in einem wasserhaltigen Träger, die als Kupplerkomponente eines der vorgenannten Aminophenol-Derivate enthält.Finally, a third object of the present invention are oxidation coloring agents for dyeing keratin fibers containing coupler components and developer components in a water-containing carrier, which contains one of the aforementioned aminophenol derivatives as the coupler component.
Unter Keratinfasern im Sinne der vorliegenden Anmeldung sind Pelze, Wolle, Federn und insbesondere menschliche Haare zu verstehen. Obwohl die erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfarbemittel in erster Linie zum Färben von Keratinfasern geeignet sind, steht prinzipiell einer Verwendung auch auf .anderen Gebieten, insbesondere in der Farbphotographie, nichts entgegen.Keratin fibers in the sense of the present application are to be understood as furs, wool, feathers and in particular human hair. Although the oxidation colorants according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, there is in principle nothing to prevent their use in other areas, particularly in color photography.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Oxidationsfarbemittel können eine oder mehrere Entwicklerkomponenten und gewünschtenfalls neben den erfindungsgemäßen Kuppler- Komponenten noch weitere Kupplerkomponenten enthalten. Bezüglich der weiteren Entwickler- und Kupplerkomponenten wird auf die zu Beginn der Beschreibung aufgeführten Substanzen verwiesen, die bevorzugte weitere Farbstoffkomponenten darstellen. Besonders bevorzugte Entwicklerkomponenten sind 2,4,5,6-Tetraamino- pyrimidin, 4-Hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidin, 1 -(ß-Hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzol, p-Phenylendiamin, p-Toluylendiamin, p- Aminophenol, 3-Methyl-p-aminophenol, 2- Hydroxy-methyl-p-aminophenol und 2-Aminomethyl-p-aminophenol. Als Kupplerkomponenten sind erfindungsgemäß insbesondere 1-Naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- und 1,7- Dihydroxynaphthalin, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, m-Aminophenol, Resorcin, Resor- cinmonomethylether, m-Phenylendiamin, l-Phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolon-5, 2,4-Dichlor- 3-aminophenol, l,3-Bis-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 2-Chlor-resorcin, 4-Chlor- resorcin, 2-Chlor-6-methyl-3 -aminophenol, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin, 2-Methylresor- cin, 5-Methylresorcin o-Aminophenol, 2,5-Dimethylresorcin, 2,6-Dihydroxypyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl- pyridin, 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Bis-(2-hydroxy-ethylamino)- toluol, 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol und 2-Amino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisol geeignet. Diese weiteren Entwickler- und Kupplerkomponenten werden üblicherweise in freier Form eingesetzt. Bei Substanzen mit Aminogruppen kann es aber bevorzugt sein, sie in Salzform, insbesondere in Form der Hydrochloride und Sulfate, einzusetzen.The oxidation colorants according to the invention can contain one or more developer components and, if desired, further coupler components in addition to the coupler components according to the invention. With regard to the further developer and coupler components, reference is made to the substances listed at the beginning of the description, which are preferred further dye components. Particularly preferred developer components are 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 1 - (β-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 3-methyl-p-aminophenol, 2- Hydroxy-methyl-p-aminophenol and 2-aminomethyl-p-aminophenol. According to the invention, 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, m-aminophenol, resorcinol, resorcinomino methyl ether, m-phenylenediamine, l-phenyl are particularly suitable as coupler components -3-methyl-pyrazolone-5, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, l, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 2-chloro-resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol, 2-chloro -6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol o-aminophenol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2, 6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol and 2-amino-4-hydroxyethylamino-anisole are suitable. These further developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. For substances with amino groups, however, it can be preferred to use them in salt form, in particular in the form of the hydrochlorides and sulfates.
Die erfindungsgemäßen Haarfärbemittel enthalten sowohl die Entwicklerkomponenten als auch die Kupplerkomponenten bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,005 bis 20 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das gesamte Oxidationsfärbemittel. Dabei werden Entwicklerkomponenten und Kupplerkomponenten im allgemeinen in etwa molaren Mengen zueinander eingesetzt. Wenn sich auch der molare Einsatz als zweckmäßig erwiesen hat, so ist ein gewisser Überschuß einzelner Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte nicht nachteilig, so daß Entwicklerkomponenten und Kupplerkomponenten in einem Mol-Verhältnis von 1 : 0,5 bis 1 : 2 enthalten sein können.The hair colorants according to the invention preferably contain both the developer components and the coupler components in an amount of 0.005 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total oxidation colorant. Developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to one another. If the molar use has also proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components can be present in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 2.
In einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Haarfarbemittel zur weiteren Modifizierung der Farbnuancen neben den Oxidationsfarb- stoffvorprodukten zusätzlich übliche direktziehende Farbstoffe, z.B. aus der Gruppe der Nitrophenylendiamine, Nitroaminophenole, Azofarbstoffe, Anthrachinone oder Indo- phenole, wie beispielsweise unter den internationalen Bezeichnungen bzw. Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 4-Amino-2-nitrodiphe- nylamin-2 ' -carbonsäure, 6-Nitro- 1 ,2,3 ,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, Hydroxyethy 1-2-nitro- toluidin, Pikraminsäure, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol und 4-N-Ethyl-l,4-bis(2'- hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzol-hydrochlorid in einer Menge von 0,01 bis 20 Gew.- %, bezogen auf das gesamte Oxidationshaarfärbemittel. 4-.Amino-2-nitro-diphenyl.amin- 2'-carbonsäure, 6-Nitro-l,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin und HC Red BN sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte direktziehende Farbstoffe.In a preferred embodiment, the hair colorants according to the invention contain, in addition to the oxidation dye precursors, customary direct dyes, for example from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols, such as, for example, under the international names or trade names HC, in addition to the oxidation dye precursors Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds, as well as 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2 '-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1 , 2,3, 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl 1-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol and 4-N-ethyl-1,4-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) - 2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the entire oxidation hair dye. 4-.Amino-2-nitro-diphenyl.amin-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-l, 2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline and HC Red BN are particularly preferred direct dyes according to the invention.
Weiterhin können die erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen auch in der Natur vorkommende Farbstoffe wie beispielsweise Henna rot, Henna neutral, Henna schwarz, Kamillenblüte, Sandelholz, schwarzen Tee, Faulbaumrinde, Salbei, Blauholz, Krappwurzel, Catechu, Sedre und Alkannawurzel enthalten.Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention can also contain naturally occurring dyes such as, for example, henna red, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flowers, sandalwood, black tea, rotten bark, sage, blue wood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanna root.
Es ist nicht erforderlich, daß die Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte oder die fakultativ enthaltenen direktziehenden Farbstoffe jeweils einheitliche Verbindungen darstellen. Vielmehr können in den erfindungsgemäßen Haarfärbemitteln, bedingt durch die Herstellungsverfahren für die einzelnen Farbstoffe, in untergeordneten Mengen noch weitere Komponenten enthalten sein, soweit diese nicht das Färbeergebnis nachteilig beeinflussen oder aus anderen Gründen, z.B. toxikologischen, ausgeschlossen werden müssen.It is not necessary that the oxidation dye precursors or the optional direct dyes each represent uniform compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production processes for the individual dyes, further components may also be present in minor amounts, provided that these do not adversely affect the coloring result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.
Bezüglich der in den erfindungsgemäßen Haarfarbe- und -tönungsmitteln einsetzbaren Farbstoffe wird weiterhin ausdrücklich auf die Monographie Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, Kapitel 7 (Seiten 248-250; direktziehende Farbstoffe) sowie Kapitel 8, Seiten 264-267; Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte), erschienen als Band 7 der Reihe „Dermato- logy" (Hrg.: Ch., Culnan und H. Maibach), Verlag Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, sowie das „Europäische Inventar der Kosmetik-Rohstoffe", herausgegeben von der Europäischen Gemeinschaft, erhältlich in Diskettenform vom Bundesverband Deutscher Industrie- und Handelsunternehmen für Arzneimittel, Reformwaren und Körperpflegemittel e.V., M-annheim, Bezug genommen. Zur Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Färbemittel werden die Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte in einen geeigneten wasserhaltigen Träger eingearbeitet. Zum Zwecke der Haarfarbung sind solche Träger z.B. Cremes, Emulsionen, Gele oder auch tensidhaltige schäumende Lösungen, z.B. Shampoos, Schaumaerosole oder andere Zubereitungen, die für die Anwendung auf dem Haar geeignet sind.With regard to the dyes which can be used in the hair colorants and tints according to the invention, reference is also expressly made to the monograph Ch. Zviak, The Science of Hair Care, chapter 7 (pages 248-250; direct dyes) and chapter 8, pages 264-267; Oxidation dye precursors), published as Volume 7 of the "Dermatology" series (ed .: Ch., Culnan and H. Maibach), Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, Basel, 1986, and the "European inventory of cosmetic raw materials ", published by the European Community, available in diskette form from the Federal Association of German Industry and Commerce for Medicinal Products, Health Care Products and Personal Care Products, M-annheim. To produce the colorants according to the invention, the oxidation dye precursors are incorporated into a suitable water-containing carrier. For the purpose of hair coloring, such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or also surfactant-containing foaming solutions, for example shampoos, aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
Weiterhin können die erfindungsgemäßen Färbemittel alle in solchen Zubereitungen bekannten Wirk-, Zusatz- und Hilfsstoffe enthalten. In vielen Fällen enthalten die Färbemittel mindestens ein Tensid, wobei prinzipiell sowohl anionische als auch zwitterionische, ampholytische, nichtionische und kationische Tenside geeignet sind. In vielen Fällen hat es sich aber als vorteilhaft erwiesen, die Tenside aus anionischen, zwitterionischen oder nichtionischen Tensiden auszuwählen.Furthermore, the colorants according to the invention can contain all active ingredients, additives and auxiliaries known in such preparations. In many cases, the colorants contain at least one surfactant, both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants being suitable in principle. In many cases, however, it has proven advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.
Als anionische Tenside eignen sich in erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen alle für die Verwendung am menschlichen Körper geeigneten anionischen oberflächenaktiven Stoffe. Diese sind gekennzeichnet durch eine wasserlöslich machende, anionische Gruppe wie z. B. eine Carboxylat-, Sulfat-, Sulfonat- oder Phosphat-Gruppe und eine lipophile Alkylgruppe mit etwa 10 bis 22 C-Atomen. Zusätzlich können im Molekül Glykol- oder Polyglykolether-Gruppen, Ester-, Ether- und Amidgruppen sowie Hydroxylgruppen enthalten sein. Beispiele für geeignete anionische Tenside sind, jeweils in Form der Natrium-, Kalium- und Ammonium- sowie der Mono-, Di- und Trialkanolammoniumsalze mit 2 oder 3 C-Atomen in der Alkanolgruppe,Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,
lineare Fettsäuren mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen (Seifen),linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH2-CH2O)x -CH2-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) x -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
Acylsarcoside mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,Acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Acyltauride mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,Acyl taurides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
Acylisethionate mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethyle^er mit 8 bis 18 C- Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen, lineare Alkansulfonate mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen, lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen, Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 18 C-Atomen, Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH -CH O) -SO H, in der R bevorzugt eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,Acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkylpolyoxyethyls with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, linear alpha Olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH-CH O) -SO H, in which R preferably a linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 C Atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030, sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykol- ether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354,Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344,Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2-15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen.Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Bevorzugte anionische Tenside sind Alkylsulfate, Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate und Ethercarbonsäuren mit 10 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und bis zu 12 Glykol- ethergruppen im Molekül sowie insbesondere Salze von gesättigten und insbesondere ungesättigten C8-C22-Carbonsäuren, wie Ölsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure und Palmitinsäure.Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and in particular salts of saturated and in particular unsaturated C 8 -C 22 carboxylic acids, such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.
Als zwitterionische Tenside werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen bezeichnet, die im Molekül mindestens eine quartäre Ammoniumgruppe und mindestens eine -COO - oder -SO -Gruppe tragen. Besonders geeignete zwitterionische Tenside sind die sogenannten Betaine wie die N-Alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium-glycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosalkyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, N-Acyl-aminopropyl-N,N- dimethylammoniumglycinate, beispielsweise das Kokosacylaminopropyldimethyl- ammoniumglycinat, und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline mit jeweils 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkyl- oder Acylgruppe sowie das Kokosacylamino- ethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. Ein bevorzugtes zwitterionisches Tensid ist das unter der CTFA-Bezeichnung Cocamidopropyl Betaine bekannte Fettsäureamid- Derivat.Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO - or -SO group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyldimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Unter ampholytischen Tensiden werden solche oberflächenaktiven Verbindungen verstanden, die außer einer Cg.lg- Alkyl- oder -Acylgruppe im Molekül mindestens eine freie Aminogruppe und mindestens eine -COOH- oder -SO H-Gruppe enthalten und zurAmpholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C g . lg - alkyl or acyl group in the molecule contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO H group and
Ausbildung innerer Salze befähigt sind. Beispiele für geeignete ampholytische Tenside sind N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N- Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyl- taurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren mit jeweils etwa 8 bis 18 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe. Besonders bevorzugte ampholytische Tenside sind das N-Kokosalkylaminopropionat, das Kokosacylaminoethylamino- propionat und das C -Acylsarcosin.Are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylamino propionate and C -acylsarcosine.
Nichtionische Tenside enthalten als hydrophile Gruppe z. B. eine Polyolgruppe, eine Polyalkylenglykolethergruppe oder eine Kombination aus Polyol- und Polyglykol- ethergruppe. Solche Verbindungen sind beispielsweiseNonionic surfactants contain z as a hydrophilic group. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example
Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Pro- pylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, CI2.22-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, C -Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga,Addition products of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group C 12.22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, C 1 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues,
8-228-22
Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetesAddition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened
Rizinusöl,Castor oil,
Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide.Addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters Addition products of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides.
Beispiele für die in den erfindungsgemäßen Haarbehandlungsmitteln verwendbaren kationischen Tenside sind insbesondere quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen. Bevorzugt sind Ammoniumhalogenide wie Alkyltrime&ylammoniumchloride, Dialkyldimethyl- ammoniumchloride und Trialkylmethylammoniumchloride, z. B. Cetyltrimethyl- ammoniumchlorid, Stearyltrimethylammoniumchlorid, Distearyldimethylam- moniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylammoniumchlorid, Lauryldimethylbenzylammonium- chlorid, Methyl- l-alkylamidoemyl-2-alkyl-imidazoli-nium-methosulfat und Tricetyl- methyl-ammoniumchlorid. Weitere erfindungsgem-äß verwendbare kationische Tenside stellen die quaternisierten Protein-hydrolysate dar.Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, methyl l-alkylamidoemyl-2-alkylimidazolium -nium methosulfate and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. The quaternized protein hydrolysates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.
Erfindungsgem.äß ebenfalls geeignet sind kationische Silikonöle wie beispielsweise die im Handel erhältlichen Produkte Q2-7224 (Hersteller: Dow Corning; ein stabilisiertes Trimethylsilylamodimethicon), Dow Corning 929 Emulsion (enthaltend ein hydroxyl- amino-modifiziertes Silicon, das auch als Amodimethicone bezeichnet wird), SM-2059 (Hersteller: General Electric), SLM-55067 (Hersteller: Wacker) sowie Abü®-Quat 3270 und 3272 (Hersteller: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternäre Polydimethylsiloxane, Quater- nium-80).Also suitable according to the invention are cationic silicone oils such as, for example, the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone, which is also referred to as amodimethicone) , SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abü ® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80).
Alkylamidoamine, insbesondere Fettsäureamidoamine wie das unter der Bezeichnung Tego Amid®S 18 erhältliche Stearylamidopropyldimethylamin, zeichnen sich neben einer guten konditionierenden Wirkung speziell durch ihre gute biologische Ab- baubarkeit aus.In addition to a good conditioning effect, alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines such as the stearylamidopropyldimethylamine available under the name Tego Amid ® S 18, are characterized in particular by their good biodegradability.
Ebenfalls sehr gut biologisch abbaubar sind quaternäre Esterverbindungen, sogenannte "Esterquats", wie die unter dem Warenzeichen Stepantex® vertriebenen Methyl- hydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkyl-ammoniummethosulfate. Ein Beispiel für ein als kationisches Tensid einsetzbares quatemäres Zuckerderivat stellt das Handelsprodukt Glucquat®100 dar, gemäß CTFA-Nomenklatur ein "Lauryl Methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".Also very readily biodegradable quaternary Esterverbindungen, so-called "esterquats", such as those sold under the trademark Stepantex ® are methyl hydroxyalkyldialkoyloxyalkyl-methosulfates. An example of a suitable cationic surfactant quaternary sugar derivative is the commercial product Glucquat ® 100, according to CTFA nomenclature a "lauryl methyl Gluceth-10 Hydroxypropyl Dimonium Chloride".
Bei den als Tenside eingesetzten Verbindungen mit Alkylgruppen kann es sich jeweils um einheitliche Substanzen handeln. Es ist jedoch in der Regel bevorzugt, bei der Herstellung dieser Stoffe von nativen pflanzlichen oder tierischen Rohstoffen auszugehen, so daß man Substanzgemische mit unterschiedlichen, vom jeweiligen Rohstoff abhängigen Alkylkettenlängen erhält.The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to start from natural vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.
Bei den Tensiden, die Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylen- und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole oder Derivate dieser Anlagerungsprodukte darstellen, können sowohl Produkte mit einer "normalen" Homologenverteilung als auch solche mit einer eingeengten Homologenverteilung verwendet werden. Unter "normaler" Homologenverteilung werden dabei Mischungen von Homologen verstanden, die man bei der Umsetzung von Fettalkohol und Alkylenoxid unter Verwendung von Alkalimetallen, Alkalimetallhydroxiden oder Alkalimetallalkoholaten als Katalysatoren erhält. Eingeengte Homologenverteilungen werden dagegen erhalten, wenn beispielsweise Hy- drotalcite, Erdalkalimetallsalze von Ethercarbonsäuren, Erdalkalimetalloxide, - hydroxide oder -alkoholate als Katalysatoren verwendet werden. Die Verwendung von Produkten mit eingeengter Homologenverteilung kann bevorzugt sein.In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrowed homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution is understood to mean mixtures of homologues which are obtained as catalysts when fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide are reacted using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates. By contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.
Weitere übliche Bestandteile der erfindungsgemäßen Zubereitungen können sein:Other common components of the preparations according to the invention can be:
Anionische, zwitterionische, amphotere und nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure-Copolymere, Polydimethylsiloxane, Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Vinylacetat/Butylmaleat/Isobornyl- acrylat-Copolymere, Methylvinylether/Maleinsäureanhydrid-Copolymere und deren Ester, unvernetzte und mit Polyolen vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren, Acryl-amido- propyl-trimethylammoniumchlorid/Acrylat-Copolymere, Octylacrylamid/Methyl- memacrylat/tert.Butyl.arninoethylmethacrylat/2-Hydroxypropylmethacrylat- Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon, Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, Vinylpyrrolidon/DimemylammoethylmemaciylatA^inylcaprolactam-Terpolymere sowie gegebenfalls derivatisierte Celluloseether. symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n- undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n- Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecy lether, tert.-Butyl-n- octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether, Entschäumer wie Silikone,Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic polymers such as, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, polydimethylsiloxanes, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic acid and anhydride polyesters, non-crosslinked polymers, non-copolymerized copolymers, non-copolymerized copolymers Acryl amidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl memacrylate / tert-butyl.arninoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, Vinylpyrrolidone / DimemylammoethylmemaciylatA ^ inylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers. Symmetrical and asymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers with a total of between 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for example di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert -butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether, defoamers such as silicones,
Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Gelatine, Pektine, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellu- lose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fr.aktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z.B. Polyvinylalkohol sowie Polyacrylamide Strukturanten wie Maleinsäure, Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, gelatin, pectins, cellulose derivatives, e.g. As methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as. B. bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as e.g. Polyvinyl alcohol and polyacrylamide structurants such as maleic acid, mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
Lösungsvermittler, wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin und Diethylenglykol, Farbstoffe zum Anfärben des Mittels,Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, dyes for coloring the agent,
Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Olamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol, weitere Substanzen zur Einstellung des pH- Wertes, tierische und pflanzliche Proteinhydrolysate, insbesondere Elastin-, Kollagen-, Keratin-, Milcheiweiß-, Sojaprotein-, Mandelprotein- und Weizen- proteinhydrolysate, sowie deren Fettsäurekondensationsprodukte und quaternierte Derivate,Anti-dandruff agents such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazol, other substances for adjusting the pH, animal and vegetable protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein, almond protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, and their fatty acid condensation products and quaternized derivatives,
Vitamine und Vitaminvorstufen, wie Panthenol, dessen Derivate und Biotin, Pflanzen- und Honigextrakte, wie insbesondere Extrakte aus Eichenrinden, Brennessel, Hamamelis, Hopfen, Kamille, Klettenwurzel, Schachtelhalm, Lindenblüten, Mandel, Aloe Vera, Kokosnuß, Mango, Aprikose, Limone, Weizen, Kiwi, Melone, Orange, Grapefruit, Salbei, Rosmarin, Birke, Wiesenschaumkraut, Quendel, Schafgarbe, Hauhechel, Meristem, Ginseng und Ingwerwurzel, Weitere Wirkstoffe wie Ceramide, Allantoin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäuren, und Bisabolol, Lichtschutzmittel,Vitamins and vitamin precursors, such as panthenol, its derivatives and biotin, plant and honey extracts, such as in particular extracts from oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden flowers, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, Wheat, Kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, cuckoo flower, quendel, yarrow, hake, meristem, ginseng and ginger root, other active ingredients such as ceramides, allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, and bisabolol, light stabilizers,
Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether, Fette und Wachse, wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs und Paraffine, Fettsäurealkanolamide,Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, fatty acid alkanolamides,
Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbo- nate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere, Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat, Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, ß-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren, Reduktionsmittel und Stabilisatoren wie z.B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure, sowie Ascorbinsäure, Sulfite und Dithionite,Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, reducing agents and stabilizers such as e.g. Thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, as well as ascorbic acid, sulfites and dithionites,
Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N2O, Dimethylether, CO2, N2 und Luft sowieBlowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 , N 2 and air as well
Antioxidantien. Bezüglich weiterer Bestandteile sowie Mengenbereiche für die einzelnen Inhaltsstoffe wird auf die dem Fachmann bekannten Handbücher, z.B. K. Schrader, Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika, 2. Auflage, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989, verwiesen.Antioxidants. With regard to further constituents and quantity ranges for the individual ingredients, reference is made to the manuals known to the person skilled in the art, e.g. K. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes for Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989.
Die Bestandteile des wasserhaltigen Trägers werden zur Herstellung der erfindungsgemäßen Färbemittel in für diesen Zweck üblichen Mengen eingesetzt; z.B. werden Emulgiermittel in Konzentrationen von 0,5 bis 30 Gew.-% und Verdickungsmittel in Konzentrationen von 0,1 bis 25 Gew.-% des gesamten Färbemittels eingesetzt. Die oxidative Entwicklung der Färbung kann grundsätzlich mit Luftsauerstoff erfolgen. Bevorzugt wird jedoch ein chemisches Oxid'ationsinittel eingesetzt, besonders dann, wenn neben der Färbimg ein Aufhelleffekt an menschlichem Haar gewünscht ist. Als Oxidationsmittel kommen Persulfate, Chlorite und insbesondere Wasserstoffperoxid oder dessen Anlagerungsprodukte an Harnstoff, Melamin sowie Kalium- und Natriumborat in Frage. Weiterhin ist es möglich, die Oxidation mit Hilfe von Enzymen durchzuführen. Dabei können die Enzyme zur Übertragung von Luftsauerstoff auf die Entwicklerkomponente oder zur Verstärkimg der Wirkung geringer Mengen vorhandener Oxidationsmittel dienen. Ein Beispiel für ein enzymatisches Verfahren stellt das Vorgehen dar, die Wirkung geringer Mengen (z.B. 1 Gew.-% und weniger, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel) Wasserstoffperoxid durch Peroxidasen zu verstärken.The constituents of the water-containing carrier are used to produce the colorants according to the invention in amounts customary for this purpose; For example, emulsifiers are used in concentrations of 0.5 to 30% by weight and thickeners in concentrations of 0.1 to 25% by weight of the total colorant. In principle, the oxidative development of the coloring can take place with atmospheric oxygen. However, a chemical oxidizing agent is preferably used, especially when, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired. Persulfates, chlorites and in particular hydrogen peroxide or their adducts with urea, melamine and potassium and sodium borate are suitable as oxidizing agents. It is also possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes. The enzymes can be used to transfer atmospheric oxygen to the developer component or to enhance the effect of small amounts of oxidizing agents present. An example of an enzymatic process is the procedure to increase the effect of small amounts (eg 1% by weight and less, based on the total agent) of hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases.
Zweckmäßigerweise wird die Zubereitung des Oxidationsmittels unmittelbar vor dem Haarefärben mit der Zubereitung aus den Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukten vermischt. Das dabei entstehende gebrauchsfertige Haarfärbepräparat sollte bevorzugt einen pH- Wert im Bereich von 6 bis 10 aufweisen. Besonders bevorzugt ist die Anwendung der Haarfärbemittel in einem schwach alkalischen Milieu. Die Anwendungstemperaturen können in einem Bereich zwischen 15 und 40 °C liegen. Nach einer Einwirkungszeit von ca. 30 Minuten wird das Haarfärbemittel durch Ausspülen von dem zu färbenden Haar entfernt. Das Nachwaschen mit einem Shampoo entfällt, wenn ein stark tensid- haltiger Träger, z.B. ein Färbeshampoo, verwendet wurde.The preparation of the oxidizing agent is expediently mixed with the preparation from the oxidation dye precursors immediately before hair coloring. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. It is particularly preferred to use the hair dye in a weakly alkaline environment. The application temperatures can range between 15 and 40 ° C. After an exposure time of approx. 30 minutes, the hair dye is removed from the hair to be colored by rinsing. Washing with a shampoo is not necessary if a carrier with a high tenside content, e.g. a coloring shampoo was used.
Die nachfolgenden Beispiele sollen den Erfindungsgegenstand näher erläutern. The following examples are intended to explain the subject of the invention in more detail.
Beispiele 1. SynthesebeispielExamples 1. Synthesis example
Synthese von 6-Methoxy-2-methyl-3-aminophenolSynthesis of 6-methoxy-2-methyl-3-aminophenol
6g (0,03 mol) 6-Methoxy-2-methyl-3-nitrophenol wurden in 100 ml Ethanol in Gegenwart von 0,2 g PdVC bei einer Temperatur von 20 °C und einem Druck von 2x105 Pa hydriert. Nachdem die Wasserstoffaufhahme beendet war, wurde der Katalysator abfiltriert, das Filtrat mit HC1 angesäuert und anschließend bis zur Trockne eingeengt. Als Produkt erhielt man farblose Kristalle mit einem Schmelzpunkt von 230 °C.6 g (0.03 mol) of 6-methoxy-2-methyl-3-nitrophenol were hydrogenated in 100 ml of ethanol in the presence of 0.2 g of PdVC at a temperature of 20 ° C. and a pressure of 2x10 5 Pa. After the hydrogen uptake had ended, the catalyst was filtered off, the filtrate was acidified with HC1 and then evaporated to dryness. Colorless crystals with a melting point of 230 ° C. were obtained as the product.
2. Ausfarbungen2. Colorings
Es wurde zunächst eine Cremebasis folgender Zusammensetzung hergestellt [alle Angaben sind, soweit nicht anders vermerkt, in g]:First, a cream base of the following composition was produced [unless otherwise stated, all data are in g]:
Taigfettalkohol 17,0Taig fatty alcohol 17.0
Lorol®techn. 4,0Lorol ® techn. 4.0
Texapon®N 28 40,0Texapon ® N 28 40.0
Dehyton®K3 25,0Dehyton ® K 3 25.0
Eumulgin®B 2 1,5 destilliertes Wasser 12,5Eumulgin ® B 2 1.5 distilled water 12.5
C12_ι8-Fettalkohol (HENKEL)C 12 _ι 8 fatty alcohol (HENKEL)
22
Natriumlaurylethersulfat (ca. 28 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz; CTFA-Bezeichnung: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (HENKEL)Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 28% by weight of active substance; CTFA name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (HENKEL)
Fettsäureamid-Derivat mit Betainstruktur der Formel R-CONH(CH ) N+(CH ) CH COO" (ca. 30 Gew.-% Aktivsubstanz; CTFA- Bezeichnung Cocoamidopropyl Betaine) (HENKEL)Fatty acid amide derivative with betaine structure of the formula R-CONH (CH) N + (CH) CH COO "(approx. 30% by weight of active substance; CTFA name Cocoamidopropyl Betaine) (HENKEL)
-4-4
Cetylstearylalkohol mit ca. 20 Mol EO (CTFA-Bezeichnung: Ceteareth- 20) (HENKEL)Cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 20 mol EO (CTFA name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL)
Auf Basis dieser Creme wurde dann folgende Haarfarbecremeemulsion hergestellt:The following hair color cream emulsion was then produced on the basis of this cream:
Cremebasis 50,0Cream base 50.0
Entwicklerkomponente 7,5 mmol Kupplerkomponente 7,5 mmol Na SO (Inhibitor) 1,0Developer component 7.5 mmol Coupler component 7.5 mmol Na SO (inhibitor) 1.0
konz. Ammoniaklösung ad pH 10 Wasser ad 100 conc. Ammonia solution ad pH 10 water ad 100
Die Bestandteile wurden der Reihe nach miteinander vermischt. Nach Zugabe der Oxidationsfarbstoffvorprodukte und des Inhibitors wurde zunächst mit konzentrierter Ammoniaklösung der pH- Wert der Emulsion auf 10 eingestellt, dann wurde mit Wasser auf 100 g aufgefüllt.The ingredients were mixed together in order. After the oxidation dye precursors and the inhibitor had been added, the pH of the emulsion was first adjusted to 10 using concentrated ammonia solution, and the mixture was then made up to 100 g with water.
Die oxidative Entwicklung der Färbung wurde mit 3 Gew.-%iger Wasserstoffperoxidlösung als Oxidationslösung durchgeführt. Hierzu wurden 100 g der Emulsion mit 50 g Wasserstoffperoxidlösung (3 Gew.-%ig) versetzt und vermischt.The oxidative development of the color was carried out using 3% by weight hydrogen peroxide solution as the oxidation solution. For this purpose, 100 g of the emulsion were mixed with 50 g of hydrogen peroxide solution (3% by weight) and mixed.
Die Färbecreme wurde auf ca. 5 cm lange Strähnen standardisierten, zu 90 % ergrauten, aber nicht besonders vorbehandelten Menschenhaars aufgetragen und dort 30 Minuten bei 32 °C belassen. Nach Beendigung des Färbeprozesses wurde das Haar gespült, mit einem üblichen Haarwaschmittel gewaschen und anschließend getrocknet. Für die Ausfarbungen wurden folgende Kuppler- und Entwickler-Komponenten verwendet:The coloring cream was applied to approx. 5 cm long strands of standardized, 90% gray, but not specially pretreated human hair and left there at 32 ° C for 30 minutes. After the dyeing process was completed, the hair was rinsed, washed with a conventional shampoo and then dried. The following coupler and developer components were used for the coloring:
- Kuppler-Komponente 6-Methoxy-2-methyl-3-aminophenol (Kl)- Coupler component 6-methoxy-2-methyl-3-aminophenol (Kl)
- Entwickler-Komponenten- Developer components
2-ß-Hydroxyethyl-p-phenylendiamin (El )2-ß-hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine (El)
3-Methyl-4-aminophenol (E2)3-methyl-4-aminophenol (E2)
1 -(ß-Hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzol (E3) p-Toluylendiamin (E4)1 - (ß-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene (E3) p-toluenediamine (E4)
Tetraaminopyrimidin (E5) p- Aminophenol (E6)Tetraaminopyrimidine (E5) p-aminophenol (E6)
Es wurden folgende Ausfarbungen gefunden:The following colors were found:
Kuppler Entwickler Nuance des gefärbten HaaresCoupler developer nuance of colored hair
Kl El DunkelbraunKl El dark brown
Kl E2 RotbraunKl E2 red-brown
Kl E3 RotschwarzKl E3 red black
Kl E4 PhotobraunKl E4 photo brown
Kl E5 DunkelmagentaKl E5 dark magenta
Kl E6 Gelbbraun Kl E6 yellow-brown
Claims
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| AU11525/99A AU1152599A (en) | 1997-10-20 | 1998-10-12 | Novel aminophenol derivatives and the use thereof for dyeing keratin fibres |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE19746249.9 | 1997-10-20 | ||
| DE1997146249 DE19746249A1 (en) | 1997-10-20 | 1997-10-20 | Disubstituted 3-aminophenol(s) useful as coupler in oxidation colorant for keratin fibers |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO1999020597A1 true WO1999020597A1 (en) | 1999-04-29 |
Family
ID=7846027
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/EP1998/006447 Ceased WO1999020597A1 (en) | 1997-10-20 | 1998-10-12 | Novel aminophenol derivatives and the use thereof for dyeing keratin fibres |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| AU (1) | AU1152599A (en) |
| DE (1) | DE19746249A1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1999020597A1 (en) |
Families Citing this family (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19927073A1 (en) * | 1999-06-15 | 2000-12-21 | Henkel Kgaa | Oxidation color based on developer and coupler, for coloring keratin fibers, especially human hair, contains m-(N-aminoalkyl)-aminophenol derivative as coupler |
Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4125601A (en) * | 1976-04-21 | 1978-11-14 | L'oreal | Substituted nitroaminophenols, process for their preparation and dyeing compositions in which they are present |
| EP0410471A2 (en) * | 1989-07-28 | 1991-01-30 | Kao Corporation | 2-alkyl-4-methoxy-5-aminophenol or salt thereof, or 2-alkyl-4-methoxy-5-substituted aminophenol or salt thereof, and dyeing composition for keratin fibers comprising the same |
| WO1993000066A1 (en) * | 1991-06-26 | 1993-01-07 | L'oreal | Meta-aminophenols, their use as couplers for oxidation dyeing of keratinous fibres, dye compositions and method |
-
1997
- 1997-10-20 DE DE1997146249 patent/DE19746249A1/en not_active Withdrawn
-
1998
- 1998-10-12 WO PCT/EP1998/006447 patent/WO1999020597A1/en not_active Ceased
- 1998-10-12 AU AU11525/99A patent/AU1152599A/en not_active Abandoned
Patent Citations (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US4125601A (en) * | 1976-04-21 | 1978-11-14 | L'oreal | Substituted nitroaminophenols, process for their preparation and dyeing compositions in which they are present |
| EP0410471A2 (en) * | 1989-07-28 | 1991-01-30 | Kao Corporation | 2-alkyl-4-methoxy-5-aminophenol or salt thereof, or 2-alkyl-4-methoxy-5-substituted aminophenol or salt thereof, and dyeing composition for keratin fibers comprising the same |
| WO1993000066A1 (en) * | 1991-06-26 | 1993-01-07 | L'oreal | Meta-aminophenols, their use as couplers for oxidation dyeing of keratinous fibres, dye compositions and method |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DE19746249A1 (en) | 1999-04-22 |
| AU1152599A (en) | 1999-05-10 |
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