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WO1999013835A1 - Conditioning shampoo composition comprising high molecular weight ester oil - Google Patents

Conditioning shampoo composition comprising high molecular weight ester oil Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999013835A1
WO1999013835A1 PCT/US1998/011298 US9811298W WO9913835A1 WO 1999013835 A1 WO1999013835 A1 WO 1999013835A1 US 9811298 W US9811298 W US 9811298W WO 9913835 A1 WO9913835 A1 WO 9913835A1
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alkyl
surfactants
group
mixtures
compounds
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French (fr)
Inventor
Hirotaka Uchiyama
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Priority to AU80553/98A priority Critical patent/AU8055398A/en
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85Polyesters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/434Luminescent, Fluorescent; Optical brighteners; Photosensitizers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to conditioning shampoo compositions comprising a high molecular weight ester oil, a detersive surfactant, and a stabilizing agent. More specifically, the high molecular weight ester oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • shampooing cleans the hair by removing excess soil and sebum.
  • shampooing can leave the hair in a wet, tangled, and generally unmanageable state. Once the hair dries, it is often left in a dry, rough, lusterless, or frizzy condition due to removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components.
  • the hair can further be left with increased levels of static upon drying, which can interfere with combing and result in a condition commonly referred to as "fly-away hair.”
  • a conditioning shampoo which can provide improved conditioning benefit when the hair is wet, while not interfering with the cleansing efficacy, nor providing negative feel to the hair when it is dried.
  • a conditioning shampoo which can provide softness and ease of combing when the hair is wet, as well as to provide long lasting moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy.
  • a high molecular weight ester oil being water-insoluble, and in liquid form at 25°C, the high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of: a) pentaerythritol ester oils of the following formula:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; b) trimethylol ester oils of the following formula:
  • R 11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons
  • R 12 , R 13 , and R 4 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons
  • c) citrate ester oils being water-insoluble, having a molecular weight of at least about 500, and in liquid form at 25°C and having the following formula:
  • R 21 is OH or CH3COO
  • R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; and mixtures thereof;
  • a detersive surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
  • a stabilizing agent selected from the group consisting of crystalline suspending agents, micas, solid surfactants, polymeric stabilizing agents, and mixtures thereof; and (4) an aqueous carrier.
  • the conditioning shampoo compositions of the present invention provide softness and ease of combing when the hair is wet, as well as provide long lasting moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy.
  • HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT ESTER OIL
  • compositions of the present invention comprise a high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the high molecular weight ester oils useful herein are those which are water-insoluble, and are in liquid form at 25°C.
  • water-insoluble means the compound is substantially not soluble in water at 25°C; when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably at above 0.5%, the compound is temporarily dispersed to form an unstable colloid in water, then is quickly separated from water into two phases.
  • the high molecular weight ester oil herein provides conditioning benefits such as moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy. It is believed that water- insoluble oily material in general are capable of being deposited on the hair. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, because of its bulkiness, the high molecular weight ester oil covers the surface of the hair and, as a result, the high molecular weight ester oil reduces hair friction to deliver smoothness and manageability control to the hair. It is also believed that, because it has some hydrophilic groups, the high molecular weight ester oil provides moisturized feel, yet, because it is liquid, does not leave the hair feeling greasy.
  • the high molecular weight ester oil is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions.
  • the high molecular weight ester oil is preferably included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.
  • Pentaerythritol ester oils useful herein are those of the following formula having a molecular weight of at least 800:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , and R 4 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
  • Trimethylol ester oils useful herein are those of the following formula having a molecular weight of at least 800:
  • R 11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons
  • R 12 , R 13 , and R 14 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 11 is ethyl and R 12 , R 13 , and R 14 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 11 , R 12 , R 13 and R 14 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
  • Citrate ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 having the following formula: wherein R 21 is OH or CH3COO, and R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 , independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons.
  • R 21 is OH
  • R 22 , R 23 , and R 24 independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R 21 , R 22 , R 23 and R 24 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
  • pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Such compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol with tradenames KAKPTI, KAKTTI, and Shin Nihon Rika with tradenames PTO, ENUJERUBU TP3SO.
  • compositions of the present invention contain a detersive surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the level and species of the additional detersive surfactant are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and desired characteristic of the product.
  • the additional detersive surfactant contains an anionic surfactant, more preferably further contains an amphoteric surfactant.
  • detersive surfactant is intended to distinguish these surfactants from surfactants which are primarily emulsifying surfactants, i.e. surfactants which provide an emulsifying benefit and which have low cleansing performance. It is recognized that most surfactants have both detersive and emulsifying properties. It is not intended to exclude emulsifying surfactants from the present invention, provided the surfactant also possesses sufficient detersive properties to be useful herein.
  • the detersive surfactant is included at a level so that the total of detersive surfactant is from about 5% to about 75%, preferably from about 8% to about 50%, and more preferably from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of the composition.
  • Anionic Surfactants are included at a level so that the total of detersive surfactant is from about 5% to about 75%, preferably from about 8% to about 50%, and more preferably from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of the composition.
  • Anionic surfactants useful herein include alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. These materials have the respective formulae R 51 OSO 3 M and R 51 O(C 2 H 4 O) x SO 3 M, wherein R 51 is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is 1 to about 10, and M is hydrogen or a cation such as ammonium, alkanolammonium (e.g., triethanolammonium), a monovalent metal cation (e.g., sodium and potassium), or a polyvalent metal cation (e.g., magnesium and calcium).
  • M should be chosen so that the anionic surfactant component is water soluble.
  • the anionic surfactant or surfactants should be chosen such that the Krafft temperature is about 15°C or less, preferably about 10°C or less, and more preferably about 0°C or less. It is also preferred that the anionic surfactant be soluble in the composition hereof.
  • Krafft temperature refers to the point at which solubility of an ionic surfactant becomes determined by crystal lattice energy and heat of hydration, and corresponds to a point at which solubility undergoes a sharp, discontinuous increase with increasing temperature.
  • Each type of surfactant will have its own characteristic Krafft temperature.
  • Krafft temperature for ionic surfactants is, in general, well known and understood in the art. See, for example, Myers, Drew, Surfactant Science and Technology, pp. 82-85, VCH Publishers, Inc. (New York, New York, USA), 1988 (ISBN 0-89573-399-0).
  • R 51 has from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in both the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates.
  • the alkyl ether sulfates are typically made as condensation products of ethylene oxide and monohydric alcohols having from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms.
  • the alcohols can be derived from fats, e.g., coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, or the like, or the alcohols can be synthetic. Lauryl alcohol and straight chain alcohols derived from coconut oil and palm oil are preferred herein.
  • Such alcohols are reacted with 1 to about 10, and especially about 3, molar proportions of ethylene oxide and the resulting mixture of molecular species having, for example, an average of 3 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, is sulfated and neutralized.
  • alkyl ether sulfates which can be used in the present invention are sodium and ammonium salts of coconut alkyl triethylene glycol ether sulfate; tallow alkyl triethylene glycol ether sulfate, and tallow alkyl hexaoxyethylene sulfate.
  • Highly preferred alkyl ether sulfates are those comprising a mixture of individual compounds, said mixture having an average alkyl chain length of from about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms and an average degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to about 4 moles of ethylene oxide. Such a mixture also comprises from 0% to about 20% by weight C 12 . 13 compounds; from about 60% to about 100% by weight of C 14 .
  • 16 compounds from 0% to about 20% by weight of C 17 . 19 compounds; from about 3% to about 30% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation of 0; from about 45% to about 90% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to about 4; from about 10% to about 25% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation of from about 4 to about 8; and from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation greater than about 8.
  • Suitable anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of organic, sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula R 52 -SO 3 -M where R 52 is selected from the group consisting of a straight or branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 to about 24, preferably about 10 to about 18, carbon atoms; and M is as previously described above in this section.
  • surfactants are the salts of an organic sulfuric acid reaction product of a hydrocarbon of the methane series, including iso-, neo-, and n-paraffins, having about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms and a sulfonating agent, e.g., SO 3 , H 2 SO 4 , obtained according to known sulfonation methods, including bleaching and hydrolysis.
  • a sulfonating agent e.g., SO 3 , H 2 SO 4
  • anionic surfactants include olefin sulfonates having about 10 to about 24 carbon atoms.
  • olefin sulfonates means compounds which can be produced by the sulfonation of alpha-olefins by means of uncomplexed sulfur trioxide, followed by neutralization of the acid reaction mixture in conditions such that any sulfones which have been formed in the reaction are hydrolyzed to give the corresponding hydroxy-alkanesulfonates.
  • the sulfur trioxide can be liquid or gaseous, and is usually, but not necessarily, diluted by inert diluents, for example by liquid SO 2 , chlorinated hydrocarbons, etc., when used in the liquid form, or by air, nitrogen, gaseous SO 2 , etc., when used in the gaseous form.
  • the ⁇ -olefins from which the olefin sulfonates are derived are mono-olefins having about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 14 to about 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are straight chain olefins.
  • the olefin sulfonates can contain minor amounts of other materials, such as alkene disulfonates depending upon the reaction conditions, proportion of reactants, the nature of the starting olefins and impurities in the olefin stock and side reactions during the sulfonation process.
  • alkene disulfonates depending upon the reaction conditions, proportion of reactants, the nature of the starting olefins and impurities in the olefin stock and side reactions during the sulfonation process.
  • a specific ⁇ -olefin sulfonate mixture of the above type is described more fully in U.S. Patent 3,332,880, to Pflaumer and Kessler, issued July 25, 1967.
  • anionic surfactants are the reaction products of fatty acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide where, for example, the fatty acids are derived from coconut or palm oil; or sodium or potassium salts of fatty acid amides of methyl tauride in which the fatty acids, for example, are derived from coconut oil.
  • Other similar anionic surfactants are described in U.S. Patents 2,486,921 , 2,486,922, and 2,396,278.
  • anionic surfactants suitable for use in the shampoo compositions are the ⁇ -alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. These compounds have the following formula:
  • R-CH-CH 2 — SO 3 M where R 53 is a straight chain alkyl group having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, R 54 is a lower alkyl group having from about 1 , preferred, to about 3 carbon atoms, and M is as previously described in this section.
  • anionic surfactants suitable for use in the shampoo compositions are described in McCutcheon's, Emulsifiers and Detergents, 1989 Annual, published by M. C. Publishing Co., and in U.S. Patent 3,929,678.
  • amino acid surfactants which are surfactants that have the basic chemical structure of an amino acid compound, i.e., that contains a structural component of one of the naturally- occurring amino acids.
  • N-acyl-L-glutamates such as N-cocoyl-L-glutamate and, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, sodium lauryl aminodiacetic acid, laurimino diproprionate, and N-lauryl- ⁇ -imino-dipropionate, N-acyl-L-aspartate, polyoxyethylene laurylsulfosuccinate, disodium N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate; diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate; tetra sodium N-(1 ,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; the diamyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; the dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; and the dioctyl ester of sodium
  • anionic surfactants include those of the following formula (I) and (II):
  • R 56 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl of 5 to 21 carbons; and M 1 and M 2 , independently, are hydrogen, alkaline metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkyl or alkenyl ammonium of 1 to 22 carbons, alkyl or alkenyl substituted pyridinium of 1 to 18 carbons, or basic amino acids.
  • Suitable examples of formula (I) include acid salts of N-acyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, such as sodium, triethanolamine and ammonium salts of lauroyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, myhstoyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, cocoyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, and oleoyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid.
  • acid salts of N-acyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid such as sodium, triethanolamine and ammonium salts of lauroyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, myhstoyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, cocoyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, and oleoyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid.
  • Suitable examples of formula (II) include acid and salt forms of N-hexanoyl-N-carboxyethyl- ⁇ -alanine, N-octanoyl-N-carboxyethyl- ⁇ - alanine, N-decanoyl-N-carboxyethyl- ⁇ -alanine, N-lauroyl-N-carboxyethyl- ⁇ - alanine, N-tetradecanoyl-N-hydroxyethyl- ⁇ -alanine, N-hexadecanoyl-N- carboxyethyl- ⁇ -alanine, N-isostearoyl-N-carboxyethyl- ⁇ -alanine, and N-oleoyl-N- carboxyethyl- ⁇ -alanine.
  • Preferred anionic surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions include ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, lauric monoglyceride sodium sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, sodium tridecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, N-cocoylalaninate, N-acyl-N-methyl- ⁇ - alaninate, sodium laurylsarcosinate, cocoyl sarcosine, lauroyl taurate, lauroyl lactylate, N-cocoyl-L-glutamate, N-acyl potassium glysine, lauroamphohydroxy propyls
  • Amphoteric surfactants useful herein include those called zwitterionic surfactants in the art.
  • Amphoteric surfactants useful herein include the derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is straight or branched and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic water solubilizing group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate.
  • Amphoteric surfactants for use herein include the derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium, and sulfonium compounds, in which the aliphatic radicals are straight or branched, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate.
  • a general formula for these compounds is:
  • R 57 contains an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy alkyl radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety;
  • Y is selected from the group consisting of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur atoms;
  • R 58 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;
  • x is 1 when Y is a sulfur atom, and 2 when Y is a nitrogen or phosphorus atom;
  • R 59 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms and Z is a radical selected from the group consisting of carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphonate, and phosphate groups.
  • amphoteric surfactants also include sultaines and amidosultaines.
  • Sultaines, including amidosultaines include for example, cocodimethylpropylsultaine, stearyldimethylpropylsultaine, lauryl-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)propylsultaine and the like; and the amidosultaines such as cocamidodimethylpropylsultaine, stearylamidododimethylpropylsultaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)propylsultaine, and the like.
  • amidohydroxysultaines such as the C 8 -C 18 hydrocarbylamidopropylhydroxy sultaines, especially C 8 -C 14 hydrocarbylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, e.g., laurylamidopropylhydroxysultaine and cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine.
  • C 8 -C 18 hydrocarbylamidopropylhydroxysultaines especially C 8 -C 14 hydrocarbylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, e.g., laurylamidopropylhydroxysultaine and cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine.
  • Other sultaines useful herein are described in U.S. Patent 3,950,417.
  • amphoteric surfactants are the aminoalkanoates of the formula R 60 NH(CH 2 ) n COO", the iminodialkanoates of the formula R 60 N[(CH 2 ) m COO _ ] 2 and mixtures thereof; wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to about 4, R 60 is C 8 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl.
  • amphoteric surfactants include those represented by the formula :
  • R 61 is C 8 -C 22 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C 8 -C 16
  • R 62 and R 63 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, -CH 2 CO 2 " , CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH 2 COO-, or -(CH 2 CH 2 O) m H wherein m is an integer from 1 to about 25, and R 64 is hydrogen, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, or -CH 2 CH 2 OCH 2 CH 2 COO-, Z' is CO 2 " or CH 2 CO 2 -, y is 2 or 3, preferably 2.
  • This type of surfactant is sometimes classified as an imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant, although it should be recognized that it does not necessarily have to be derived, directly or indirectly, through an imidazoline intermediate.
  • Suitable materials of this type are marketed under the tradename MIRANOL and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species, and can exist in protonated and non-protonated species depending upon pH with respect to species that can have a hydrogen at R 62 . All such variations and species are meant to be encompassed by the above formula.
  • surfactants of the above formula are monocarboxylates and di-carboxylates.
  • examples of these materials include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxypropionic acid, cocoamphocarboxygiycinate (alternately referred to as cocoamphodiacetate), and cocoamphoacetate.
  • amphoteric surfactants include those sold under the trade names MIRANOL C2M CONC. N.P., MIRANOL C2M CONC. O.P., MIRANOL C2M SF, MIRANOL CM SPECIAL (Miranol, Inc.); ALKATERIC 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); AMPHOTERGE W-2 (Lonza, Inc.); MONATERIC CDX-38, MONATERIC CSH-32 (Mona Industries); REWOTERIC AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and SCHERCOTERIC MS-2 (Scher Chemicals).
  • Betaine surfactants, i.e. zwitterionic surfactants, suitable for use in the conditioning compositions are those represented by the formula:
  • R 65 is a member selected from the group consisting of COO- and CH(OH)CH 2 SO 3 -;
  • R 66 is lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl;
  • R 67 is lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl;
  • R 68 is a member selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and lower alkyl;
  • R 69 is higher alkyl or alkenyl;
  • Y' is lower alkyl, preferably methyl;
  • x 1 is an integer from 2 to 7, preferably from 2 to 3;
  • y 1 is the integer 1 or 0.
  • lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl means straight or branch chained, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals and substituted hydrocarbon radicals having from one to about three carbon atoms such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxyethyl, and the like.
  • higher alkyl or alkenyl means straight or branch chained saturated (i.e., “higher alkyl”) and unsaturated (i.e., "higher alkenyl”) aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms such as, for example, lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, and the like.
  • higher alkyl or alkenyl includes mixtures of radicals which may contain one or more intermediate linkages such as ether or polyether linkages or non-functional substituents such as hydroxyl or halogen radicals wherein the radical remains of hydrophobic character.
  • surfactant betaines of the above formula wherein n is zero which are useful herein include the alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethyl- ⁇ -carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryl- bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-carboxymethylbetaine, stearyl-bis-(2- hydroxypropyl)carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethyl- ⁇ -carboxypropylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)- -carboxyethylbetaine, etc.
  • alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethyl- ⁇ -carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryl- bis-(2-hydroxye
  • the sulfobetaines may be represented by cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-sulfopropylbetaine, and the like.
  • amido betaines and amidosulfobetaines useful in the conditioning compositions include the amidocarboxybetaines, such as cocamidodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, laurylamidodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetylamidodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- carboxymethylbetaine, cocamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-carboxymethylbetaine, etc.
  • amidosulfobetaines may be represented by cocamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearylamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-sulfopropylbetaine, and the like.
  • Nonionic surfactants useful herein include those compounds produced by condensation of alkylene oxide groups, hydrophilic in nature, with an organic hydrophobic compound, which may be aliphatic or alkyl aromatic in nature.
  • nonionic surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions include the following:
  • polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols e.g., the condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms in either a straight chain or branched chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, the said ethylene oxide being present in amounts equal to from about 10 to about 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol;
  • ethylene oxide e.g., a coconut alcohol ethylene oxide condensate having from about 10 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having from about 10 to about 14 carbon atoms;
  • R 70 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety
  • R 71 and R 72 contain from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and from 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl radicals;
  • R 73 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties and R 74 and R 75 are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;
  • long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and one long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxy alkyl, or keto alkyl radicals containing from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties;
  • alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants e.g. alkyl polyglycosides
  • alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants e.g. alkyl polyglycosides
  • APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there can be a polyalkylene-oxide group joining the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic moiety) can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxy or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic; and
  • polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of the formula R 76 O(CH 2 CH 2 ) x2 H and polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters, such as those of the formula R 76 (O)OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x2 OH, wherein x2 is from 1 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and R 76 is an alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms.
  • PEG polyethylene glycol
  • compositions of the present invention comprise a stabilizing agent selected from the group consisting of crystalline stabilizing agents, micas, solid surfactants, polymeric stabilizing agents, and mixture thereof.
  • the stabilizing agents useful herein help distribute the high molecular weight ester oils in the composition.
  • the high molecular weight ester oils herein are bulky and readily depositable, they are relatively easy to separate from shampoo compositions which are more or less a water-continuous phase emulsion or suspension.
  • the presence of stabilizing agents in the present composition are particularly beneficial.
  • the stabilizing agents are believed to prevent coagulation, flocculation, creaming, coalescence, and phase separation of the high molecular weight ester oils.
  • the stabilizing agents are preferably comprised at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5% by weight of the composition.
  • these are preferably comprised in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.01 % to about 1%.
  • a composition with suitable viscosity and lathering ability is obtained.
  • Crystalline stabilizing agents are useful stabilizing agents herein.
  • the crystalline stabilizing agents herein are those which have a melting point of at least 40°C, and are preferably present the composition in crystalline form.
  • the crystalline stabilizing agent is in the form of a needle shape crystal having an average chord length of about 0.1 to about 200 microns.
  • Preferred suspending agents include acyl derivatives such as ethylene glycol stearates, both mono and distearate such as stearyl dimethyl amine oxide, and mixtures thereof. When used in the shampoo compositions, these preferred suspending agents are present in the composition in crystalline form. These suspending agents are described in U.S. Patent 4,741 ,855.
  • acyl derivatives suitable herein include ethylene glycol distearate with tradenames Elfacos RGDS available from Akzo, Lexemul EGDS available from Inolex, and Nikkol Estepearl 10, Nikkol PEARL-1222 available from Nikko, ethylene glycol monostearate with tradenames EGMS-70 available from Nikko, Kemester 5220 available from Witco, Mackester EGMS from Mclntyre, and ethylene glycol monopalmitate with tradename Lanol P available from Seppic.
  • alkanol amides of fatty acids preferably having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably about 16 to 18 carbon atoms, preferred examples of which include stearic monoethanolamide, cocomonoethanolamide, stearic diethanolamide, stearic monoisopropanolamide and stearic monoethanolamide stearate.
  • N,N-dihydrocarbyl amido benzoic acid and soluble salts thereof e.g., Na and K salts
  • N,N-di(hydrogenated) C 16 , C 18 and tallow amido benzoic acid species of this family which are commercially available from Stepan Company (Northfield, Illinois, USA).
  • Particularly useful crystalline stabilizing agents useful herein include, for example: Mica
  • Micas are useful stabilizing agents herein. Particles of titanium dioxide coated mica are preferred. In general, smaller particles give the composition a pearly appearance, whereas particles having a larger diameter will result in a glittery appearance. The particles may vary in size from about 0.5 ⁇ m to about 150 ⁇ m in diameter. Smaller-sized particles are preferred.
  • Suitable micas are sold under the tradenames TIMIRON (Merck) or FLAMENCO (Mearl). The micas are preferably present at level of about 1 % to about 10% in the present compositions.
  • Solid Surfactant Solid surfactants selected from anionic compounds, amphoteric compounds, nonionic compounds, cationic compound, and mixtures thereof are useful stabilizing agents herein.
  • the solid surfactants herein are those which have a Krafft temperature of at least about 40°C, preferably at least about 50°C. Krafft temperature is defined in the section for detersive surfactants above. Although the solid surfactants herein may have some surfactant properties, they are generally too low to provide good cleaning properties.
  • the solid surfactants herein have a melting point of at least 25°C. While there may be certain solid surfactant components common with the detersive surfactants mentioned above, the solid surfactants included in this section are usually included in the detersive surfactants as byproducts of mixed compounds. Preferably, the solid surfactant is in crystalline form, and is more or less water insoluble. More preferably, the solid surfactant is not capable of being solubilized in the detersive surfactant micelles. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solid surfactant is in the form of a needle shape crystal having an average chord length of about 0.1 to about 200 microns.
  • Anionic compounds useful herein include alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. These materials have the respective formulae R 51 OSO 3 M and R 51 O(C 2 H 4 O) x SO 3 M, wherein R 51 is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is 0 to about 10, and M is hydrogen or a cation such as ammonium, alkanolammonium (e.g., triethanolammonium), a monovalent metal cation (e.g., sodium and potassium), or a polyvalent metal cation (e.g., magnesium and calcium).
  • R 51 is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms
  • x is 0 to about 10
  • M is hydrogen or a cation such as ammonium, alkanolammonium (e.g., triethanolammonium), a monovalent metal cation (e.g., sodium and potassium), or a polyvalent metal c
  • R 51 has from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms in both the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates.
  • the alkyl ether sulfates are typically made as condensation products of ethylene oxide and monohydric alcohols having from about 16 to about 24 carbon atoms.
  • the alcohols can be derived from fats, e.g., coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, or the like, or the alcohols can be synthetic.
  • alkyl ether sulfates which can be used in the present invention are sodium and ammonium salts of; tallow alkyl monoethylene glycol ether sulfate, and tallow alkyl dioxyethylene sulfate.
  • Highly preferred alkyl ether sulfates are those comprising a mixture of individual compounds, said mixture having an average alkyl chain length of from about 16 to about 24 carbon atoms.
  • R 52 is selected from the group consisting of a straight or branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 16 to about 24, preferably about 16 to about 22, carbon atoms; and M is as previously described above in this section.
  • surfactants examples include the salts of an organic sulfuric acid reaction product of a hydrocarbon of the methane series, including iso-, neo-, and n-paraffins, having about 16 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms and a sulfonating agent, e.g., SO 3 , H 2 SO 4 , obtained according to known sulfonation methods, including bleaching and hydrolysis.
  • sulfonating agent e.g., SO 3 , H 2 SO 4
  • Another class of suitable anionic compounds are amino acid surfactants which are surfactants that have the basic chemical structure of an amino acid compound, i.e., that contains a structural component of one of the naturally- occurring amino acids.
  • N-acyl-L-glutamates such as N-stearyl-L-glutamate and, sodium stearyl aminodiacetic acid, stearimino diproprionate, and N-stearyl- ⁇ -imino-dipropionate, N-stearyl-L-aspartate, polyoxyethylene stearylsulfosuccinate, disodium stearyl sulfosuccinate; diammonium stearyl sulfosuccinate; tetra sodium N-(1 ,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; the diamyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; the dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; and the distearyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid, and 2- tallowalkyl N-carboxyethyl N-carbox
  • R 55 is an alkyl of 16 to 22 carbons
  • R 56 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl of 16 to 22 carbons; and M 1 and M 2 , independently, are hydrogen, alkaline metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkyl or alkenyl ammonium of 1 to 22 carbons, alkyl or alkenyl substituted pyridinium of 1 to 18 carbons, or basic amino acids.
  • Suitable examples of formula (I) include acid salts of N-acyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, such as sodium, triethanolamine and ammonium salts of stearoyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid.
  • Suitable examples of formula (II) include acid and salt forms of N-stearoyl-N-carboxyethyl- ⁇ -alanine.
  • Preferred anionic compounds for use as stabilizing agents herein include ammonium stearyl sulfate, triethylamine stearyl sulfate, triethanolamine stearyl sulfate, monoethanolamine stearyl sulfate, diethanolamine stearyl sulfate, stearic monoglyceride sodium sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate, potassium stearyl sulfate, sodium tristearyl benzene sulfonate, sodium stearyl benzene sulfonate, N- stearylalaninate, N-stearyl-N-methyl- ⁇ -alaninate, sodium stearylsarcosinate, stearyl sarcosine, stearoyl taurate, stearoyl lactylate, N-stearyl potassium glysine, stearoamphohydroxy propylsulfonate, stearylglyceride s
  • Betaines are useful as amphoteric compounds. Useful herein are those having the following two formulae: wherein: R 65 is COO" or CH(OH)CH2SO3 " , preferably COO " ; R 66 and R 67 , independently, are hydrogen, alkyl of 1 to about 4 carbons, CH2COO " , CH2CH2OH, CH2CH2OCH2CH2COO-, or (CH2CH2O) x H wherein x is an integer from 1 to about 25, preferably methyl or ethyl; R68 js hydrogen or alkyl of 1 to about 4 carbons, preferably hydrogen; R ⁇ 9 JS a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl of about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably a straight saturated alkyl of about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms; Y is an alkyl of 1 to about 4 carbons, preferably methyl; m is an integer from 1 to about 7, preferably
  • R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy alkyl of from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably a saturated alkyl of about 16 to no about 22 carbon atoms;
  • Y is nitrogen, phosphorus or sulfur atom;
  • R is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to about 4 carbon atoms;
  • p is 1 when Y
  • 59 is a sulfur atom, and 2 when Y is a nitrogen or phosphorus atom; R is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms; Z is a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphonate, or phosphate; and " is as previously defined.
  • amphoteric compounds useful herein include: alkylbetaines such as cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, stearyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, behenyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, stearyl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethylbetaine, and stearyldihydroxyethylbetaine; amido betaines such as cetylamidodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, and stearylamidodimethylcarboxypropyl betaine; amidosulfobetaines such as stearylamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine; sulfobetaines such as stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine; sultaines such as stearyldimethylpropylsultaine; and amidosultaines.
  • alkylbetaines such as cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, stearyldimethylcarboxymethylbe
  • stearyl dimethyl betaine with tradename Rikabion A-700 available from Shin Nihon Rika
  • oleyl dimethyl betaine with tradename Rikabion A-300 available from Shin Nihon Rika
  • stearyl dihydroxyethyl betaine with tradename Anon AB 202 available from Nihon Oil & Fats.
  • Nonionic compounds are suitable as stabilizing agents.
  • Nonionic compounds useful herein include those compounds produced by condensation of alkylene oxide groups, hydrophilic in nature, with an organic hydrophobic compound, which may be aliphatic or alkyl aromatic in nature.
  • nonionic compounds herein include the following:
  • polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols e.g., the condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms in either a straight chain or branched chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, the said ethylene oxide being present in amounts equal to from about 2 to about 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol;
  • ethylene oxide e.g., a behenyl alcohol ethylene oxide condensate having from about 2 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of stearyl alcohol
  • R 70 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety
  • R 71 and R 72 contain from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and from 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl radicals;
  • R 73 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties and R 74 and R 75 are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;
  • long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and one long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxy alkyl, or keto alkyl radicals containing from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties;
  • alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants e.g. alkyl polyglycosides
  • alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants e.g. alkyl polyglycosides
  • APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there can be a polyalkylene-oxide group joining the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic moiety) can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxy or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic; and
  • polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of the formula R 76 O(CH 2 CH 2 ) x2 H and polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters, such as those of the formula R 76 (O)OCH 2 CH(OH)CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) x2 OH, wherein x2 is from 1 to about 200, preferably from 1 to about 20, and R 76 is an alkyl having from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms.
  • PEG polyethylene glycol
  • Cationic compounds are suitable as stabilizing agents.
  • the cationic compounds in this section are crystallized, are substantially water insoluble, and are not capable of being solubilized in the detersive surfactant miscelles.
  • R 101 , R 102 , R 103 and R 104 is selected from an aliphatic group of from 16 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 24 carbon atoms, the remainder of R 101 , R 102 , R 03 and R 104 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 24 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g.
  • the aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups.
  • the longer chain aliphatic groups e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred is when R 01 , R 102 , R 03 and R 104 are independently selected from C, to about C 22 alkyl.
  • Nonlimiting examples of cationic compounds useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
  • cationic compounds of general formula (I) preferred are those containing in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons.
  • preferred cationic compounds include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei; cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemicals, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, di ehenyl/arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride.
  • Polymeric stabilizing agents suitable herein include xanthan gum.
  • xanthan gum as a suspending agent is described, for example, in U.S. Patent 4,788,006, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • Combinations of long chain acyl derivatives and xanthan gum may also be used as stabilizing agents. Such combinations are described in U.S. Patent 4,704,272, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • Polymeric stabilizing agents useful herein include carboxyvinyl polymers. Preferred among these polymers are the copolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with polyallylsucrose as described in U.S. Patent 2,798,053, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Examples of these polymers include the carbomers, which are hompolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an ally) ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene. Neutralizers may be required, for example, amino methyl propanol, triethanol amine, or sodium hydroxide.
  • Polymeric stabilizing agents useful herein include cellulose derivatives, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, ethylene oxide polymers, and ethylene oxide/propylene oxide based polymers.
  • Suitable polymers are cellulose derivatives including methylcellulose with tradename BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose with tradename KLUCEL, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename POLYSURF 67, all supplied by Herculus.
  • Other suitable polymers are ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers with tradenames CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, all supplied by Amerchol.
  • Polymeric stabilizing agents useful herein include polyalkylene glycols. These compounds are particularly useful for compositions which are designed to impart a soft, moist feeling to the hair.
  • R 201 is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, and mixtures thereof.
  • these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, which are also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes, and polyethylene glycols.
  • R 201 is methyl, these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, which are also known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes, and polypropylene glycols.
  • R 201 is methyl, it is also understood that various positional isomers of the resulting polymers can exist.
  • x3 has an average value of from about 1500 to about 25,000, preferably from about 2500 to about 20,000, and more preferably from about 3500 to about 15,000.
  • Polyethylene glycol polymers useful herein are PEG-2M wherein R 201 equals H and n has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M wherein R 201 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and Polyox WSR® N-80, both available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M wherein R 201 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein R 201 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG 9-M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M wherein R 201 equals H
  • polymeric stabilizing agents include the polypropylene glycols and mixed polyethylene/polypropylene glycols, guar gum, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyacryl amide (commercially available as SEPIGEL 305, Seppic), hydroxypropyl guar gum, starch and starch derivatives.
  • AQUEOUS CARRIER AQUEOUS CARRIER
  • compositions of the present invention comprise an aqueous carrier.
  • the level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
  • Carriers useful in the present invention include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols.
  • Lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the polyhydric alcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.
  • the aqueous carrier is substantially water.
  • Deionized water is preferably used.
  • Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product.
  • the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 20% to about 95%, preferably from about 30% to about 92%, and more preferably from about 50% to about 90% water.
  • compositions of the present invention may further comprise an additional conditioning agent.
  • additional conditioning agents herein are selected from the group consisting of silicone compounds, cationic polymers, high melting point compounds, additional oily compounds, hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants, amines, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional conditioning agents herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, still preferably from about 1 % to about 10%.
  • Silicone compounds are useful as additional conditioning agents herein.
  • the silicone compounds useful herein include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents.
  • soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase.
  • insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone.
  • the silicone compounds herein may be made by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization.
  • the silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
  • the silicone compounds for use herein will preferably have a viscosity of from about 1 ,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes at 25°C, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,800,000, and even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1 ,500,000.
  • the viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970.
  • Silicone compound of high molecular weight may be made by emulsion polymerization.
  • Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used.
  • silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following structure (I)
  • Z 8 represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains.
  • the alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R 123 ) or at the ends of the siloxane chains Z 8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair.
  • Suitable Z 8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy.
  • the two R 123 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups.
  • the two R 123 groups represent the same group.
  • Suitable R 123 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl.
  • the preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred.
  • the polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil® and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.
  • Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
  • highly arylated silicone compounds such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher.
  • a spreading agent such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the material.
  • the silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used.
  • the ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispersibility characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols.
  • Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (II) wherein R 124 is H, CH 3 or OH, p 1 , p 2 , q 1 and q 2 are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000. This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone".
  • Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (III)
  • R 125 a G 3 . a -Si-(OSiG 2 ) p3 -(OSiG b (R 125 ) 2-b ) p4 -O-SiG 3 .
  • G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C r C 8 alkyl and preferably methyl; a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably equals 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and preferably equals 1 ; the sum p 3 +p 4 is a number from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 50 to 150, p 3 being able to denote a number from 0 to 1 ,999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and p 4 being able to denote an integer from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 1 to 10; R 125 is a monovalent radical of formula C q3 H 2q3 L in which q 3 is an integer from 2
  • R 126 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X' denotes a halide ion.
  • An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to formula (III) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" wherein R 24 is CH 3 .
  • R 128 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl
  • R 129 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C.-C 18 alkylene radical or a C,-C 18 , and more preferably C r C 8 , alkyleneoxy radical
  • Q- is a halide ion, preferably chloride
  • p 5 denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8
  • p 6 denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to
  • a preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56.”
  • References disclosing suitable nonvolatile dispersed silicone compounds include U.S. Patent No. 2,826,551, to Geen; U.S. Patent No. 3,964,500, to Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,364,837, to Pader; and British Patent No. 849,433, to Woolston.
  • silicone gum means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1 ,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to Spitzer et al., issued May 1 , 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968.
  • silicone gums will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1 ,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone resins which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems.
  • the crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri- functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin.
  • the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin.
  • silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins.
  • the ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material.
  • Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein.
  • the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0.
  • Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly utilized.
  • Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267.
  • silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid.
  • the silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.
  • silicone resin powders such as the material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as TospearlTM from Toshiba Silicones.
  • Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH 3 ) 3 SiO 05 ; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH 3 ) 2 SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH 3 )SiO., 5 ; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit SiO2.
  • Primes of the unit symbols denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc.
  • the molar ratios of the various units either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.
  • the silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resins.
  • the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.
  • MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
  • silicone compounds which are useful herein include Dimethicone with tradename D-130, cetyl Dimethicone with tradename DC2502, stearyl Dimethicone with tradename DC2503, emulsified polydimethyl siloxanes with tradenames DC1664 and DC1784, and alkyl grafted copolymer silicone emulsion with tradename DC2-2845; all available from Dow Corning Corporation, and emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone as described in GB application 2,303,857.
  • Cationic Polymers are useful as additional conditioning agents herein.
  • the term "polymer” shall include materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
  • the cationic polymer is a water-soluble cationic polymer.
  • water soluble cationic polymer what is meant is a polymer which is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled or equivalent) at 25°C.
  • the preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration.
  • the cationic polymers hereof will generally have a weight average molecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically at least about 10,000, and is less than about 10 million. Preferably, the molecular weight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million.
  • the cationic polymers will generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic charge density is preferably at least about 0.1 meq/gram, more preferably at least about 1.5 meq/gram, even more preferably at least about 1.1 meq/gram, still more preferably at least about 1.2 meq/gram.
  • Cationic charge density of the cationic polymer can be determined according to the Kjeldahl Method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of amino-containing polymers may vary depending upon pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be within the above limits at the pH of intended use.
  • Any anionic counterions can be utilized for the cationic polymers so long as the water solubility criteria is met.
  • Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate. Others can also be used, as this list is not exclusive.
  • the cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers.
  • the cationic polymer can comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units.
  • Such polymers are known in the art, and a variety can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982).
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, and vinyl pyrrolidone.
  • the alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C. - C 7 alkyl groups, more preferably C 1 - C 3 alkyl groups.
  • Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (made by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.
  • the cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred.
  • Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form, and then optionally can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction. Amines can also be similarly quaternized subsequent to formation of the polymer.
  • tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R 118 X wherein R 118 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C, - C 7 alkyl, more preferably a C, - C 3 alkyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above.
  • Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts.
  • the alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C, - C 3 alkyls, more preferably C 1 and C 2 alkyls.
  • Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C, - C 7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C - C 3 , alkyls.
  • the cationic polymers hereof can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
  • Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp.
  • CTFA Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
  • Suitable cationic polymers are amphoteric terpolymers consisting of acrylic acid methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate, having a structure as shown below referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 47.
  • CTFA chemical vapor deposition
  • An example of a suitable commercial material is MERQUAT 2001® wherein the ratio of n6:n7:n8 is 45:45:10 supplied by Calgon Corp.
  • cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.
  • Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula:
  • Z 7 is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual
  • R 119 is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof
  • R 120 , R 121 , and R 122 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R 120 , R 121 and R 122 ) preferably being about 20 or less
  • X is as previously described.
  • Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10.
  • CTFA trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide
  • Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®.
  • cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series.
  • Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581.
  • compositions may comprise a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least about 25°C selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, hydrocarbons, steroids, and mixtures thereof. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that these high melting point compounds cover the hair surface and reduce friction, thereby resulting in providing smooth feel on the hair and ease of combing.
  • the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives.
  • a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature.
  • certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 25°C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section.
  • Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
  • the fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e.
  • Hydrocarbons useful herein include compounds having at least about 20 carbons.
  • Steroids useful herein include compounds such as cholesterol.
  • High melting point compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred.
  • Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred.
  • pure herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%.
  • High melting point compounds useful herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1- DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy); and cholesterol having tradename NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko. Additional Oily Compound
  • Additional oily compounds useful herein include fatty alcohols and their derivatives, fatty acids and their derivatives.
  • the additional oily compounds useful herein may be volatile or nonvolatile, and preferably have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the additional oily compounds may penetrate into the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair.
  • the additional oily compounds of this section are to be distinguished from the high melting point compounds described above. Nonlimiting examples of the additional oily compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
  • the fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alchol, undecanol, octyl dodecanol, octyl decanol, octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, decyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol.
  • the fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid.
  • the fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate,
  • Bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils and glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those which have a molecular weight of less than about 800, preferably less than about 500.
  • fatty alcohols and their derivatives useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from Shin Nihon Rika, various liquid esters with tradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate with a tradename HIS and isopropryl isostearate having a tradename ZPIS available from Kokyu Alcohol.
  • commercially available bulky ester oils useful herein include: trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate with tradename MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co. Hydrophilically Substituted Cationic Surfactant
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the R 101 -R 104 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C 1 -C 3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably C r C 3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof.
  • the hydrophilically substituted cationic conditioning surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges.
  • Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of the formula (II) through (VIII) below:
  • n 1 is from 8 to about 28, m 1 +m 2 is from 2 to about 40, Z 1 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C r C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, or (CH 2 CH 2 O) m3 H wherein m 1 +m 2 +m 3 is up to 60, and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals;
  • halogen e.g. chloride, bromide
  • n 2 is 1 to 5, one or more of R 105 , R 106 , and R 107 are independently an C r C 30 alkyl, the remainder are CH 2 CH 2 OH, one or two of R 108 , R 109 , and R 110 are independently an C,-C 30 alkyl, and remainder are CH 2 CH 2 OH, and X is a salt forming anion as mentioned above;
  • Z 2 is an alkyl, preferably C,-C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
  • Z 3 is a short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl
  • n 3 and n 4 independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3, inclusive, more preferably 2
  • R 111 and R 112 independently, are substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, C 12 -C 20 alkyl or alkenyl
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • R 113 is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C,-C 3 alkyl, more preferably methyl
  • Z 4 and Z 5 are, independently, short chain hydrocarbyls, preferably C 2 -C 4 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl
  • m 4 is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and
  • X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • R 1 4 and R 115 independently, are C C 3 alkyl, preferably methyl, Z 6 is a
  • A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or hydrolyzed forms thereof; and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
  • Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61 , quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71 , quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium- 78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydro
  • hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures thereof; for example, commercially available under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARIQUAT K1215 and 638 from Witco Chemical, MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from Mclntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel, and ATLAS G265 from ICI Americas. Amines
  • Amines are suitable as additional conditioning agents.
  • Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful. Particularly useful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons.
  • Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldi
  • dimethylstearamine dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine.
  • Useful amines in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al.
  • amines can also be used in combination with acids such as L- glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid.
  • the amines herein are preferably partially neutralized with any of the acids at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1 : 0.3 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 : 0.4 to about 1 : 1.
  • compositions of the present invention may further comprise a hydrocarbon oil.
  • the hydrocarbon oils useful herein include straight chain, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the hydrocarbon oils may penetrate into the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair.
  • Nonlimiting examples of the hydrocarbon oils are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
  • the present invention preferably contains by weight from about 0.01 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% of the hydrocarbon oil.
  • the hydrocarbon oils useful herein have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms.
  • polymeric hydrocarbon oils of alkenyl monomers such as polymers of C 2 . 6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 500, preferably from about 200 to about 400, and more preferably from about 300 to about 350.
  • Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbon oils that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
  • suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred for use herein are hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, poly ⁇ -olefin oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene
  • hydrocarbon oils useful herein include isododecane, isohexadeance, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101 A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfleld New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago Illinois, USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA), and polydecene with tradename PURESYN 6 from Mobil Chemical Co.
  • the shampoo compositions of the present invention may include a variety of additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product.
  • Additional component include, for example, polyvalent metal cations, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, and other additional components.
  • Suitable polyvalent metal cations include divalent and trivalent metals, divalent metals being preferred.
  • Exemplary metal cations include alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, calcium, zinc, and copper, and trivalent metals such as aluminum and iron. Preferred are calcium and magnesium.
  • the polyvalent metal cation can be added as an inorganic salt, organic salt, or as a hydroxide.
  • the polyvalent metal cation may also be added as a salt with anionic surfactants as mentioned above.
  • the polyvalent metal cation is introduced as an inorganic salt or organic salt.
  • Inorganic salts include chloride, bromide, iodine, nitrate, or sulfate, more preferably chloride or sulfate.
  • Organic salts include L-glutamate, lactate, malate, succinate, acetate, fumarate, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, and tartarate.
  • Hardness of the conditioning shampoo compositions can be measured by standard methods in the art, such as by ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) titration.
  • EDTA ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid
  • hardness should be determined from the composition in the absence of the interfering dye or color.
  • a preferred additional component is an ethoxylated glucose derivative, particularly for increasing the viscosity of compositions, and for the phase stability of compositions at high and low temperatures.
  • the ethoxylated glucose derivative is included at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, and more typically from about 0.3% to about 5.0%, by weight, of the composition.
  • Suitable ethoxylated glucose derivatives include methyl gluceth 10, methyl gluceth 20, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, PPG-10 methylglycose ether, and PPG-20 methylglycose ether.
  • Commercially available material highly suitable herein include methyl gluceth 10 with tradename GLUCAM E-10, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleatewith tradename Glucamate DOE-120, PPG-10 methylglucose ether with tradename GLUCAM P-10, and PPG-20 methylglucose ether with tradename GLUCAM P-20, all available from Amerchol.
  • a wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolyzed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; emulsifying surfactants for dispersing water insoluble components in the carrier; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; optical brighteners such as polystyrylstilbenes, triazinstilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, and imidazoles; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, prop
  • compositions of the present invention are suitable for cleaning the hair, and are particularly useful for making products in the form of a homogeneous single phase emulsion.
  • Examples 1 through 6 are conditioning shampoo compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for cleaning the hair.
  • Compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for cleaning the hair.
  • Trimethylolpropane Trioleate Available from Shin Nihon Rika.
  • Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate KAK TTI obtained by Kokyu Alcohol.
  • Trisocetyl Citrate Available from Bernel.
  • N-cocoyl-L-glutamate Amisoft CT-12S available fromAjinomoto.
  • Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate Emcol 4400-1 available fromWitco * 8
  • Cocamidopropylbetaine Tego Betaine F available fromTH Goldschmidt * 9 Ethyleneglycol Distearate: Ethyleneglycol Distearate available fromTH
  • Dimethicone 40(gum)/60(fluid) weight ratio blend of SE-76 dimethicone gum available fromGeneral Electric Silicone * 21 Alkyl silicone: Silicone alkyl grafted copolymer DC2502 available fromDow Corning * 22 Alkyl silicone emulsion: Alkyl grafted copolymer silicone emulsion DC2-2845 from Dow Corning *23 PEG120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate : GLUCAMATE DOE-120 available fromAmerchol *24 Methyl Gluceth-20 : GLUCAM E-20 available fromAmerchol * 25 Zinc Pyrithione : available from Olin
  • the shampoo compositions of Examples 1 through 6 as shown above can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. A suitable method is described below. High molecular weight ester oils, detersive surfactants, and if present, cationic polymers and high melting point compounds, are melted and dispersed in water to form a homogenous premix at elevated temperature, e.g., above about 70°C. If a silicone compound is present, a silicone emulsion is made comprising the silicone compound, a small amount of detersive surfactant, and a portion of water. The remaining components can be added either to the premix, or at the last stage of the process.
  • the premix and, if present, the remaining components are mixed thoroughly at the elevated temperature and then pumped through a high shear mill and then through a heat exchanger to cool them to ambient temperature. Perfume, and if present, inorganic salts, and the silicone emulsion are added to this obtained cooled mixture.
  • the remaining components can alternatively be added at this stage.
  • the embodiments disclosed and represented by the previous examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide softness and ease of combing when the hair is wet, as well as provide long lasting moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy.

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Abstract

Disclosed is a conditioning shampoo composition comprising: (1) a high molecular weight ester oil being water-insoluble, and in liquid form at 25 °C, the high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of a) pentaerythritol ester oils, b) trimethylol ester oils, c) citrate ester oils, and mixtures thereof; (2) a detersive surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; (3) a stabilizing agent selected from the group consisting of crystalline suspending agents, micas, solid surfactants, polymeric stabilizing agents, and mixtures thereof; and (4) an aqueous carrier.

Description

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO COMPOSITION COMPRISING HIGH MOLECU. AR WEIGHT ESTER OIL
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to conditioning shampoo compositions comprising a high molecular weight ester oil, a detersive surfactant, and a stabilizing agent. More specifically, the high molecular weight ester oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
BACKGROUND Human hair becomes soiled due to its contact with the surrounding environment and from the sebum secreted by the scalp. The soiling of hair causes it to have a dirty feel and an unattractive appearance. The soiling of the hair necessitates shampooing with frequent regularity.
Shampooing cleans the hair by removing excess soil and sebum. However, shampooing can leave the hair in a wet, tangled, and generally unmanageable state. Once the hair dries, it is often left in a dry, rough, lusterless, or frizzy condition due to removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing components. The hair can further be left with increased levels of static upon drying, which can interfere with combing and result in a condition commonly referred to as "fly-away hair."
A variety of approaches have been developed to alleviate these after- shampoo problems. These approaches range from post-shampoo application of hair conditioners such as leave-on and rinse-off products, to hair conditioning shampoos which attempt to both cleanse and condition the hair from a single product.
In order to provide hair conditioning benefits in a cleansing shampoo base, a wide variety of conditioning actives have been proposed. However, many of these actives have the disadvantage of leaving the hair feeling soiled or coated, of interfering with the cleansing efficacy of the shampoo. Coacervate formation in a shampoo composition is known to be advantageous for providing conditioning benefits to the hair. The use of cationic polymers to form coacervates are known in the art, such as in PCT publications WO93/08787 and WO95/01 152. However, these shampoo compositions are not capable of delivering satisfactory conditioning benefit while the hair is wet.
Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a conditioning shampoo which can provide improved conditioning benefit when the hair is wet, while not interfering with the cleansing efficacy, nor providing negative feel to the hair when it is dried. Specifically, there is a need to provide softness and ease of combing when the hair is wet, as well as to provide long lasting moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy.
None of the existing art provides all of the advantages and benefits of the present invention.
SUMMARY The present invention is directed to a conditioning shampoo composition comprising:
(1 ) a high molecular weight ester oil being water-insoluble, and in liquid form at 25°C, the high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of: a) pentaerythritol ester oils of the following formula:
Figure imgf000004_0001
wherein R1, R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; b) trimethylol ester oils of the following formula:
Figure imgf000004_0002
wherein R11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons, and R12, R13, and R 4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; c) citrate ester oils being water-insoluble, having a molecular weight of at least about 500, and in liquid form at 25°C and having the following formula:
Figure imgf000005_0001
wherein R21 is OH or CH3COO, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; and mixtures thereof; (2) a detersive surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof; (3) a stabilizing agent selected from the group consisting of crystalline suspending agents, micas, solid surfactants, polymeric stabilizing agents, and mixtures thereof; and (4) an aqueous carrier.
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed the present invention will be better understood from the following description.
All cited references are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as to its availability as prior art to the claimed invention. Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of and "consisting essentially of.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the shampoo compositions of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they pertain to listed ingredients are based on the active level and, therefore, do not include carriers or by-products that may be included in commercially available materials.
The aspects and embodiments of the present invention set forth in this document have many advantages. For example, the conditioning shampoo compositions of the present invention provide softness and ease of combing when the hair is wet, as well as provide long lasting moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy. HIGH MOLECULAR WEIGHT ESTER OIL
The compositions of the present invention comprise a high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, and mixtures thereof. The high molecular weight ester oils useful herein are those which are water-insoluble, and are in liquid form at 25°C. As used herein, the term "water-insoluble" means the compound is substantially not soluble in water at 25°C; when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration by weight of above 1.0%, preferably at above 0.5%, the compound is temporarily dispersed to form an unstable colloid in water, then is quickly separated from water into two phases.
The high molecular weight ester oil herein provides conditioning benefits such as moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy. It is believed that water- insoluble oily material in general are capable of being deposited on the hair. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, because of its bulkiness, the high molecular weight ester oil covers the surface of the hair and, as a result, the high molecular weight ester oil reduces hair friction to deliver smoothness and manageability control to the hair. It is also believed that, because it has some hydrophilic groups, the high molecular weight ester oil provides moisturized feel, yet, because it is liquid, does not leave the hair feeling greasy. The high molecular weight ester oil is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions. The high molecular weight ester oil is preferably included in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.
Pentaerythritol ester oils useful herein are those of the following formula having a molecular weight of at least 800:
Figure imgf000007_0001
wherein R1, R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R1, R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R1, R2, R3 and R4 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
Trimethylol ester oils useful herein are those of the following formula having a molecular weight of at least 800:
3
Figure imgf000007_0002
wherein R11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons, and R12, R13, and R14, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R11 is ethyl and R12, R13, and R14, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R11, R12, R13 and R14 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 to about 1200.
Citrate ester oils useful herein are those having a molecular weight of at least about 500 having the following formula:
Figure imgf000008_0001
wherein R21 is OH or CH3COO, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons. Preferably, R21 is OH, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons. More preferably, R21, R22, R23 and R24 are defined so that the molecular weight of the compound is at least about 800.
Particularly useful pentaerythritol ester oils and trimethylol ester oils herein include pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane trioleate, and mixtures thereof. Such compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol with tradenames KAKPTI, KAKTTI, and Shin Nihon Rika with tradenames PTO, ENUJERUBU TP3SO. Particularly useful citrate ester oils herein include triisocetyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 316 available from Bernel, triisostearyl citrate with tradename PELEMOL TISC available from Phoenix, and trioctyldodecyl citrate with tradename CITMOL 320 available from Bernel. DETERSIVE SURFACTANTS The compositions of the present invention contain a detersive surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The level and species of the additional detersive surfactant are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and desired characteristic of the product. In preferred embodiments, the additional detersive surfactant contains an anionic surfactant, more preferably further contains an amphoteric surfactant.
Herein, "detersive surfactant" is intended to distinguish these surfactants from surfactants which are primarily emulsifying surfactants, i.e. surfactants which provide an emulsifying benefit and which have low cleansing performance. It is recognized that most surfactants have both detersive and emulsifying properties. It is not intended to exclude emulsifying surfactants from the present invention, provided the surfactant also possesses sufficient detersive properties to be useful herein.
The detersive surfactant is included at a level so that the total of detersive surfactant is from about 5% to about 75%, preferably from about 8% to about 50%, and more preferably from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of the composition. Anionic Surfactants
Anionic surfactants useful herein include alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. These materials have the respective formulae R51OSO3M and R51O(C2H4O)xSO3M, wherein R51 is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is 1 to about 10, and M is hydrogen or a cation such as ammonium, alkanolammonium (e.g., triethanolammonium), a monovalent metal cation (e.g., sodium and potassium), or a polyvalent metal cation (e.g., magnesium and calcium). Preferably, M should be chosen so that the anionic surfactant component is water soluble. The anionic surfactant or surfactants should be chosen such that the Krafft temperature is about 15°C or less, preferably about 10°C or less, and more preferably about 0°C or less. It is also preferred that the anionic surfactant be soluble in the composition hereof.
Krafft temperature refers to the point at which solubility of an ionic surfactant becomes determined by crystal lattice energy and heat of hydration, and corresponds to a point at which solubility undergoes a sharp, discontinuous increase with increasing temperature. Each type of surfactant will have its own characteristic Krafft temperature. Krafft temperature for ionic surfactants is, in general, well known and understood in the art. See, for example, Myers, Drew, Surfactant Science and Technology, pp. 82-85, VCH Publishers, Inc. (New York, New York, USA), 1988 (ISBN 0-89573-399-0).
In the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates described above, preferably R51 has from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms in both the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. The alkyl ether sulfates are typically made as condensation products of ethylene oxide and monohydric alcohols having from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms. The alcohols can be derived from fats, e.g., coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, or the like, or the alcohols can be synthetic. Lauryl alcohol and straight chain alcohols derived from coconut oil and palm oil are preferred herein. Such alcohols are reacted with 1 to about 10, and especially about 3, molar proportions of ethylene oxide and the resulting mixture of molecular species having, for example, an average of 3 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol, is sulfated and neutralized.
Specific examples of alkyl ether sulfates which can be used in the present invention are sodium and ammonium salts of coconut alkyl triethylene glycol ether sulfate; tallow alkyl triethylene glycol ether sulfate, and tallow alkyl hexaoxyethylene sulfate. Highly preferred alkyl ether sulfates are those comprising a mixture of individual compounds, said mixture having an average alkyl chain length of from about 12 to about 16 carbon atoms and an average degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to about 4 moles of ethylene oxide. Such a mixture also comprises from 0% to about 20% by weight C12.13 compounds; from about 60% to about 100% by weight of C14.16 compounds, from 0% to about 20% by weight of C17.19 compounds; from about 3% to about 30% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation of 0; from about 45% to about 90% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation of from 1 to about 4; from about 10% to about 25% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation of from about 4 to about 8; and from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight of compounds having a degree of ethoxylation greater than about 8.
Other suitable anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of organic, sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula R52-SO3-M where R52 is selected from the group consisting of a straight or branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 to about 24, preferably about 10 to about 18, carbon atoms; and M is as previously described above in this section. Examples of such surfactants are the salts of an organic sulfuric acid reaction product of a hydrocarbon of the methane series, including iso-, neo-, and n-paraffins, having about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms and a sulfonating agent, e.g., SO3, H2SO4, obtained according to known sulfonation methods, including bleaching and hydrolysis. Preferred are alkali metal and ammonium sulfonated C10-18 n-paraffins.
Other anionic surfactants include olefin sulfonates having about 10 to about 24 carbon atoms. Herein, "olefin sulfonates" means compounds which can be produced by the sulfonation of alpha-olefins by means of uncomplexed sulfur trioxide, followed by neutralization of the acid reaction mixture in conditions such that any sulfones which have been formed in the reaction are hydrolyzed to give the corresponding hydroxy-alkanesulfonates. The sulfur trioxide can be liquid or gaseous, and is usually, but not necessarily, diluted by inert diluents, for example by liquid SO2, chlorinated hydrocarbons, etc., when used in the liquid form, or by air, nitrogen, gaseous SO2, etc., when used in the gaseous form. The α-olefins from which the olefin sulfonates are derived are mono-olefins having about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 14 to about 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are straight chain olefins. In addition to the true alkene sulfonates and a proportion of hydroxy-alkanesulfonates, the olefin sulfonates can contain minor amounts of other materials, such as alkene disulfonates depending upon the reaction conditions, proportion of reactants, the nature of the starting olefins and impurities in the olefin stock and side reactions during the sulfonation process. A specific α-olefin sulfonate mixture of the above type is described more fully in U.S. Patent 3,332,880, to Pflaumer and Kessler, issued July 25, 1967.
Still other suitable anionic surfactants are the reaction products of fatty acids esterified with isethionic acid and neutralized with sodium hydroxide where, for example, the fatty acids are derived from coconut or palm oil; or sodium or potassium salts of fatty acid amides of methyl tauride in which the fatty acids, for example, are derived from coconut oil. Other similar anionic surfactants are described in U.S. Patents 2,486,921 , 2,486,922, and 2,396,278.
Another class of anionic surfactants suitable for use in the shampoo compositions are the β-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. These compounds have the following formula:
OR
53 |
R-CH-CH2— SO3M where R53 is a straight chain alkyl group having from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, R54 is a lower alkyl group having from about 1 , preferred, to about 3 carbon atoms, and M is as previously described in this section. Many other anionic surfactants suitable for use in the shampoo compositions are described in McCutcheon's, Emulsifiers and Detergents, 1989 Annual, published by M. C. Publishing Co., and in U.S. Patent 3,929,678.
Another class of suitable anionic surfactants are amino acid surfactants which are surfactants that have the basic chemical structure of an amino acid compound, i.e., that contains a structural component of one of the naturally- occurring amino acids.
Also useful herein are N-acyl-L-glutamates such as N-cocoyl-L-glutamate and, N-lauroyl-L-glutamate, sodium lauryl aminodiacetic acid, laurimino diproprionate, and N-lauryl-β-imino-dipropionate, N-acyl-L-aspartate, polyoxyethylene laurylsulfosuccinate, disodium N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate; diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate; tetra sodium N-(1 ,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; the diamyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; the dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; and the dioctyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid, and 2-cocoalkyl N-carboxyethyl N- carboxyethoxyethyl imidazolinium betaine.
Other suitable anionic surfactants include those of the following formula (I) and (II):
HO2CH2C-N-CH2CH2N(CH2COOH)2 C=O
R55 (I) wherein R55 is an alkyl of 12 to 18 carbons; and
O CH2CH2NCOOM1 R-C-N
CH2CH2NCOOM2
(N)
wherein R56 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl of 5 to 21 carbons; and M1 and M2, independently, are hydrogen, alkaline metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkyl or alkenyl ammonium of 1 to 22 carbons, alkyl or alkenyl substituted pyridinium of 1 to 18 carbons, or basic amino acids. Suitable examples of formula (I) include acid salts of N-acyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, such as sodium, triethanolamine and ammonium salts of lauroyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, myhstoyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, cocoyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, and oleoyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid. Suitable examples of formula (II) include acid and salt forms of N-hexanoyl-N-carboxyethyl-β-alanine, N-octanoyl-N-carboxyethyl-β- alanine, N-decanoyl-N-carboxyethyl-β-alanine, N-lauroyl-N-carboxyethyl-β- alanine, N-tetradecanoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-β-alanine, N-hexadecanoyl-N- carboxyethyl-β-alanine, N-isostearoyl-N-carboxyethyl-β-alanine, and N-oleoyl-N- carboxyethyl-β-alanine.
Preferred anionic surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions include ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, triethylamine laureth sulfate, triethanolamine laureth sulfate, monoethanolamine laureth sulfate, diethanolamine laureth sulfate, lauric monoglyceride sodium sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, potassium laureth sulfate, sodium tridecyl benzene sulfonate, sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate, N-cocoylalaninate, N-acyl-N-methyl-β- alaninate, sodium laurylsarcosinate, cocoyl sarcosine, lauroyl taurate, lauroyl lactylate, N-cocoyl-L-glutamate, N-acyl potassium glysine, lauroamphohydroxy propylsulfonate, cocoglyceride sulfate, lauroyl isethionate, lauroamphoacetate, and mixtures thereof. Amphoteric Surfactants
Amphoteric surfactants useful herein include those called zwitterionic surfactants in the art. Amphoteric surfactants useful herein include the derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is straight or branched and one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic water solubilizing group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. Amphoteric surfactants for use herein include the derivatives of aliphatic quaternary ammonium, phosphonium, and sulfonium compounds, in which the aliphatic radicals are straight or branched, and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group, e.g., carboxy, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate, or phosphonate. A general formula for these compounds is:
Figure imgf000013_0001
where R57 contains an alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy alkyl radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety; Y is selected from the group consisting of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur atoms; R58 is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; x is 1 when Y is a sulfur atom, and 2 when Y is a nitrogen or phosphorus atom; R59 is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms and Z is a radical selected from the group consisting of carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphonate, and phosphate groups. Examples of amphoteric surfactants also include sultaines and amidosultaines. Sultaines, including amidosultaines, include for example, cocodimethylpropylsultaine, stearyldimethylpropylsultaine, lauryl-bis-(2- hydroxyethyl)propylsultaine and the like; and the amidosultaines such as cocamidodimethylpropylsultaine, stearylamidododimethylpropylsultaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)propylsultaine, and the like. Preferred are amidohydroxysultaines such as the C8-C18 hydrocarbylamidopropylhydroxy sultaines, especially C8-C14 hydrocarbylamidopropylhydroxysultaines, e.g., laurylamidopropylhydroxysultaine and cocamidopropylhydroxysultaine. Other sultaines useful herein are described in U.S. Patent 3,950,417.
Other suitable amphoteric surfactants are the aminoalkanoates of the formula R60NH(CH2)nCOO", the iminodialkanoates of the formula R60N[(CH2)mCOO_]2 and mixtures thereof; wherein n and m are numbers from 1 to about 4, R60 is C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl.
Other suitable amphoteric surfactants include those represented by the formula :
Figure imgf000014_0001
wherein R61 is C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C8-C16, R62 and R63 is independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, -CH2CO2 ", CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2OCH2CH2COO-, or -(CH2CH2O)mH wherein m is an integer from 1 to about 25, and R64 is hydrogen, -CH2CH2OH, or -CH2CH2OCH2CH2COO-, Z' is CO2" or CH2CO2-, y is 2 or 3, preferably 2. This type of surfactant is sometimes classified as an imidazoline-type amphoteric surfactant, although it should be recognized that it does not necessarily have to be derived, directly or indirectly, through an imidazoline intermediate. Suitable materials of this type are marketed under the tradename MIRANOL and are understood to comprise a complex mixture of species, and can exist in protonated and non-protonated species depending upon pH with respect to species that can have a hydrogen at R62. All such variations and species are meant to be encompassed by the above formula.
Examples of surfactants of the above formula are monocarboxylates and di-carboxylates. Examples of these materials include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxypropionic acid, cocoamphocarboxygiycinate (alternately referred to as cocoamphodiacetate), and cocoamphoacetate.
Commercial amphoteric surfactants include those sold under the trade names MIRANOL C2M CONC. N.P., MIRANOL C2M CONC. O.P., MIRANOL C2M SF, MIRANOL CM SPECIAL (Miranol, Inc.); ALKATERIC 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); AMPHOTERGE W-2 (Lonza, Inc.); MONATERIC CDX-38, MONATERIC CSH-32 (Mona Industries); REWOTERIC AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and SCHERCOTERIC MS-2 (Scher Chemicals). Betaine surfactants, i.e. zwitterionic surfactants, suitable for use in the conditioning compositions are those represented by the formula:
Figure imgf000015_0001
wherein: R65 is a member selected from the group consisting of COO- and CH(OH)CH2SO3-; R66 is lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl; R67 is lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl; R68 is a member selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and lower alkyl; R69 is higher alkyl or alkenyl; Y' is lower alkyl, preferably methyl; x1 is an integer from 2 to 7, preferably from 2 to 3; y1 is the integer 1 or 0. The term "lower alkyl or hydroxyalkyl" means straight or branch chained, saturated, aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals and substituted hydrocarbon radicals having from one to about three carbon atoms such as, for example, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxyethyl, and the like. The term "higher alkyl or alkenyl" means straight or branch chained saturated (i.e., "higher alkyl") and unsaturated (i.e., "higher alkenyl") aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms such as, for example, lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, oleyl, and the like. It should be understood that the term "higher alkyl or alkenyl" includes mixtures of radicals which may contain one or more intermediate linkages such as ether or polyether linkages or non-functional substituents such as hydroxyl or halogen radicals wherein the radical remains of hydrophobic character. Examples of surfactant betaines of the above formula wherein n is zero which are useful herein include the alkylbetaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethyl-α-carboxyethylbetaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryl- bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-carboxymethylbetaine, stearyl-bis-(2- hydroxypropyl)carboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethyl-γ-carboxypropylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)- -carboxyethylbetaine, etc. The sulfobetaines may be represented by cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryl-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-sulfopropylbetaine, and the like.
Specific examples of amido betaines and amidosulfobetaines useful in the conditioning compositions include the amidocarboxybetaines, such as cocamidodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, laurylamidodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, cetylamidodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- carboxymethylbetaine, cocamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-carboxymethylbetaine, etc. The amidosulfobetaines may be represented by cocamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearylamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, laurylamido-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-sulfopropylbetaine, and the like. Nonionic Surfactant
Nonionic surfactants useful herein include those compounds produced by condensation of alkylene oxide groups, hydrophilic in nature, with an organic hydrophobic compound, which may be aliphatic or alkyl aromatic in nature.
Preferred nonlimiting examples of nonionic surfactants for use in the shampoo compositions include the following:
(1) polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols, e.g., the condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms in either a straight chain or branched chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, the said ethylene oxide being present in amounts equal to from about 10 to about 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol;
(2) those derived from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the product resulting from the reaction of propylene oxide and ethylene diamine products;
(3) condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, in either straight chain or branched chain configurations, with ethylene oxide, e.g., a coconut alcohol ethylene oxide condensate having from about 10 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of coconut alcohol, the coconut alcohol fraction having from about 10 to about 14 carbon atoms;
(4) long chain tertiary amine oxides of the formula [R70R71R72N → O] where R70 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety, and R71 and R72 contain from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and from 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl radicals;
(5) long chain tertiary phosphine oxides of the formula [R73R74R75P → O] where R73 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties and R74 and R75 are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;
(6) long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and one long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxy alkyl, or keto alkyl radicals containing from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties;
(7) alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants (e.g. alkyl polyglycosides), examples of which are described in U.S. Patent 4,565,647, which discloses APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with about 6 to about 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there can be a polyalkylene-oxide group joining the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic moiety) can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxy or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic; and
(8) polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of the formula R76O(CH2CH2)x2H and polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters, such as those of the formula R76(O)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)x2OH, wherein x2 is from 1 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about 100, and R76 is an alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. STABILIZING AGENT
The compositions of the present invention comprise a stabilizing agent selected from the group consisting of crystalline stabilizing agents, micas, solid surfactants, polymeric stabilizing agents, and mixture thereof. The stabilizing agents useful herein help distribute the high molecular weight ester oils in the composition. As the high molecular weight ester oils herein are bulky and readily depositable, they are relatively easy to separate from shampoo compositions which are more or less a water-continuous phase emulsion or suspension. Thus, the presence of stabilizing agents in the present composition are particularly beneficial. Specifically, the stabilizing agents are believed to prevent coagulation, flocculation, creaming, coalescence, and phase separation of the high molecular weight ester oils.
The stabilizing agents are preferably comprised at a level of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5% by weight of the composition. With regard to polymeric stabilizing agents, these are preferably comprised in the composition at a level by weight of from about 0.01 % to about 1%. When the polymeric stabilizing agents are included in the composition at such preferred level, a composition with suitable viscosity and lathering ability is obtained. Crystalline Stabilizing Agent
Crystalline stabilizing agents are useful stabilizing agents herein. The crystalline stabilizing agents herein are those which have a melting point of at least 40°C, and are preferably present the composition in crystalline form. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the crystalline stabilizing agent is in the form of a needle shape crystal having an average chord length of about 0.1 to about 200 microns.
Preferred suspending agents include acyl derivatives such as ethylene glycol stearates, both mono and distearate such as stearyl dimethyl amine oxide, and mixtures thereof. When used in the shampoo compositions, these preferred suspending agents are present in the composition in crystalline form. These suspending agents are described in U.S. Patent 4,741 ,855. Commercially available acyl derivatives suitable herein include ethylene glycol distearate with tradenames Elfacos RGDS available from Akzo, Lexemul EGDS available from Inolex, and Nikkol Estepearl 10, Nikkol PEARL-1222 available from Nikko, ethylene glycol monostearate with tradenames EGMS-70 available from Nikko, Kemester 5220 available from Witco, Mackester EGMS from Mclntyre, and ethylene glycol monopalmitate with tradename Lanol P available from Seppic.
Useful herein are alkanol amides of fatty acids, preferably having from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably about 16 to 18 carbon atoms, preferred examples of which include stearic monoethanolamide, cocomonoethanolamide, stearic diethanolamide, stearic monoisopropanolamide and stearic monoethanolamide stearate.
Useful herein are N,N-dihydrocarbyl amido benzoic acid and soluble salts thereof (e.g., Na and K salts), particularly N,N-di(hydrogenated) C16, C18 and tallow amido benzoic acid species of this family, which are commercially available from Stepan Company (Northfield, Illinois, USA).
Particularly useful crystalline stabilizing agents useful herein include, for example: Mica
Micas are useful stabilizing agents herein. Particles of titanium dioxide coated mica are preferred. In general, smaller particles give the composition a pearly appearance, whereas particles having a larger diameter will result in a glittery appearance. The particles may vary in size from about 0.5μm to about 150μm in diameter. Smaller-sized particles are preferred.
Suitable micas are sold under the tradenames TIMIRON (Merck) or FLAMENCO (Mearl). The micas are preferably present at level of about 1 % to about 10% in the present compositions. Solid Surfactant Solid surfactants selected from anionic compounds, amphoteric compounds, nonionic compounds, cationic compound, and mixtures thereof are useful stabilizing agents herein. The solid surfactants herein are those which have a Krafft temperature of at least about 40°C, preferably at least about 50°C. Krafft temperature is defined in the section for detersive surfactants above. Although the solid surfactants herein may have some surfactant properties, they are generally too low to provide good cleaning properties. Further, the solid surfactants herein have a melting point of at least 25°C. While there may be certain solid surfactant components common with the detersive surfactants mentioned above, the solid surfactants included in this section are usually included in the detersive surfactants as byproducts of mixed compounds. Preferably, the solid surfactant is in crystalline form, and is more or less water insoluble. More preferably, the solid surfactant is not capable of being solubilized in the detersive surfactant micelles. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the solid surfactant is in the form of a needle shape crystal having an average chord length of about 0.1 to about 200 microns. Anionic Compounds
Anionic compounds useful herein include alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. These materials have the respective formulae R51OSO3M and R51O(C2H4O)xSO3M, wherein R51 is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is 0 to about 10, and M is hydrogen or a cation such as ammonium, alkanolammonium (e.g., triethanolammonium), a monovalent metal cation (e.g., sodium and potassium), or a polyvalent metal cation (e.g., magnesium and calcium).
In the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates described above, preferably R51 has from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms in both the alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates. The alkyl ether sulfates are typically made as condensation products of ethylene oxide and monohydric alcohols having from about 16 to about 24 carbon atoms. The alcohols can be derived from fats, e.g., coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, or the like, or the alcohols can be synthetic. Specific examples of alkyl ether sulfates which can be used in the present invention are sodium and ammonium salts of; tallow alkyl monoethylene glycol ether sulfate, and tallow alkyl dioxyethylene sulfate. Highly preferred alkyl ether sulfates are those comprising a mixture of individual compounds, said mixture having an average alkyl chain length of from about 16 to about 24 carbon atoms. Other suitable anionic compounds are organic, sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula R52-SO3-M where R52 is selected from the group consisting of a straight or branched chain, saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 16 to about 24, preferably about 16 to about 22, carbon atoms; and M is as previously described above in this section. Examples of such surfactants are the salts of an organic sulfuric acid reaction product of a hydrocarbon of the methane series, including iso-, neo-, and n-paraffins, having about 16 to about 24 carbon atoms, preferably about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms and a sulfonating agent, e.g., SO3, H2SO4, obtained according to known sulfonation methods, including bleaching and hydrolysis. Another class of suitable anionic compounds are amino acid surfactants which are surfactants that have the basic chemical structure of an amino acid compound, i.e., that contains a structural component of one of the naturally- occurring amino acids.
Also useful herein are N-acyl-L-glutamates such as N-stearyl-L-glutamate and, sodium stearyl aminodiacetic acid, stearimino diproprionate, and N-stearyl- β-imino-dipropionate, N-stearyl-L-aspartate, polyoxyethylene stearylsulfosuccinate, disodium stearyl sulfosuccinate; diammonium stearyl sulfosuccinate; tetra sodium N-(1 ,2-dicarboxyethyl)-N-octadecylsulfosuccinate; the diamyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; the dihexyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid; and the distearyl ester of sodium sulfosuccinic acid, and 2- tallowalkyl N-carboxyethyl N-carboxyethoxyethyl imidazolinium betaine.
Other suitable anionic compounds include those of the following formula (I) and (II):
HO2CH2C-N-CH2CH2N(CH2COOH)2
C=O
R55
(I) wherein R55 is an alkyl of 16 to 22 carbons; and
56O CH2CH2NCOOM1 R-C-N
CH2CH2NCOOM2
(H)
wherein R56 is a straight or branched alkyl or alkenyl of 16 to 22 carbons; and M1 and M2, independently, are hydrogen, alkaline metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkyl or alkenyl ammonium of 1 to 22 carbons, alkyl or alkenyl substituted pyridinium of 1 to 18 carbons, or basic amino acids. Suitable examples of formula (I) include acid salts of N-acyl-N,N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid, such as sodium, triethanolamine and ammonium salts of stearoyl-N,N'- ethylenediaminetriacetic acid. Suitable examples of formula (II) include acid and salt forms of N-stearoyl-N-carboxyethyl-β-alanine.
Preferred anionic compounds for use as stabilizing agents herein include ammonium stearyl sulfate, triethylamine stearyl sulfate, triethanolamine stearyl sulfate, monoethanolamine stearyl sulfate, diethanolamine stearyl sulfate, stearic monoglyceride sodium sulfate, sodium stearyl sulfate, potassium stearyl sulfate, sodium tristearyl benzene sulfonate, sodium stearyl benzene sulfonate, N- stearylalaninate, N-stearyl-N-methyl-β-alaninate, sodium stearylsarcosinate, stearyl sarcosine, stearoyl taurate, stearoyl lactylate, N-stearyl potassium glysine, stearoamphohydroxy propylsulfonate, stearylglyceride sulfate, stearoyl isethionate, stearoamphoacetate, and mixtures thereof. Amphoteric Compound
Amphoteric compounds are suitable as stabilizing agents. Betaines are useful as amphoteric compounds. Useful herein are those having the following two formulae:
Figure imgf000022_0001
wherein: R65 is COO" or CH(OH)CH2SO3", preferably COO"; R66 and R67, independently, are hydrogen, alkyl of 1 to about 4 carbons, CH2COO", CH2CH2OH, CH2CH2OCH2CH2COO-, or (CH2CH2O)xH wherein x is an integer from 1 to about 25, preferably methyl or ethyl; R68 js hydrogen or alkyl of 1 to about 4 carbons, preferably hydrogen; R^9 JS a straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl of about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably a straight saturated alkyl of about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms; Y is an alkyl of 1 to about 4 carbons, preferably methyl; m is an integer from 1 to about 7, preferably from 1 to about 4; n is 1 or 0; and
Figure imgf000022_0002
57 wherein R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl, alkenyl, or hydroxy alkyl of from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably a saturated alkyl of about 16 to no about 22 carbon atoms; Y is nitrogen, phosphorus or sulfur atom; R is an alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl group containing 1 to about 4 carbon atoms; p is 1 when Y
59 is a sulfur atom, and 2 when Y is a nitrogen or phosphorus atom; R is an alkylene or hydroxyalkylene of from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms; Z is a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphonate, or phosphate; and " is as previously defined.
Examples of amphoteric compounds useful herein include: alkylbetaines such as cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, stearyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, behenyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, stearyl-bis-(2-hydroxypropyl) carboxymethylbetaine, and stearyldihydroxyethylbetaine; amido betaines such as cetylamidodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, and stearylamidodimethylcarboxypropyl betaine; amidosulfobetaines such as stearylamidodimethylsulfopropylbetaine; sulfobetaines such as stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine; sultaines such as stearyldimethylpropylsultaine; and amidosultaines. Commercially available material highly suitable for use herein include stearyl dimethyl betaine with tradename Rikabion A-700 available from Shin Nihon Rika, oleyl dimethyl betaine with tradename Rikabion A-300 available from Shin Nihon Rika, and stearyl dihydroxyethyl betaine with tradename Anon AB 202 available from Nihon Oil & Fats.
Nonionic Compound
Nonionic compounds are suitable as stabilizing agents. Nonionic compounds useful herein include those compounds produced by condensation of alkylene oxide groups, hydrophilic in nature, with an organic hydrophobic compound, which may be aliphatic or alkyl aromatic in nature.
Preferred nonlimiting examples of nonionic compounds herein include the following:
(1) polyethylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols, e.g., the condensation products of alkyl phenols having an alkyl group containing from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms in either a straight chain or branched chain configuration, with ethylene oxide, the said ethylene oxide being present in amounts equal to from about 2 to about 60 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alkyl phenol;
(2) those derived from the condensation of ethylene oxide with the product resulting from the reaction of propylene oxide and ethylene diamine products;
(3) condensation products of aliphatic alcohols having from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, in either straight chain or branched chain configurations, with ethylene oxide, e.g., a behenyl alcohol ethylene oxide condensate having from about 2 to about 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of stearyl alcohol;
(4) long chain tertiary amine oxides of the formula [R70R71R72N → O] where R70 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about 1 glyceryl moiety, and R71 and R72 contain from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and from 0 to about 1 hydroxy group, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl radicals;
(5) long chain tertiary phosphine oxides of the formula [R73R74R75P → O] where R73 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical ranging from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms in chain length, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties and R74 and R75 are each alkyl or monohydroxyalkyl groups containing from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms;
(6) long chain dialkyl sulfoxides containing one short chain alkyl or hydroxy alkyl radical of from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms (usually methyl) and one long hydrophobic chain which include alkyl, alkenyl, hydroxy alkyl, or keto alkyl radicals containing from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms, from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties and from 0 to 1 glyceryl moieties;
(7) alkyl polysaccharide (APS) surfactants (e.g. alkyl polyglycosides), examples of which are described in U.S. Patent 4,565,647, which discloses APS surfactants having a hydrophobic group with about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) as the hydrophilic group; optionally, there can be a polyalkylene-oxide group joining the hydrophobic and hydrophilic moieties; and the alkyl group (i.e., the hydrophobic moiety) can be saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and unsubstituted or substituted (e.g., with hydroxy or cyclic rings); a preferred material is alkyl polyglucoside which is commercially available from Henkel, ICI Americas, and Seppic; and
(8) polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers such as those of the formula R76O(CH2CH2)x2H and polyethylene glycol (PEG) glyceryl fatty esters, such as those of the formula R76(O)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)x2OH, wherein x2 is from 1 to about 200, preferably from 1 to about 20, and R76 is an alkyl having from about 16 to about 30 carbon atoms. Cationic Compound
Cationic compounds are suitable as stabilizing agents. The cationic compounds in this section are crystallized, are substantially water insoluble, and are not capable of being solubilized in the detersive surfactant miscelles.
Cationic compounds useful herein are those corresponding to the general formula (I):
Figure imgf000024_0001
wherein at least one of R101, R102, R103 and R104 is selected from an aliphatic group of from 16 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 24 carbon atoms, the remainder of R101, R102, R 03 and R104 are independently selected from an aliphatic group of from 1 to about 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having up to about 24 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals. The aliphatic groups can contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Preferred is when R 01, R102, R 03 and R104 are independently selected from C, to about C22 alkyl. Nonlimiting examples of cationic compounds useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methosulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.
Among the cationic compounds of general formula (I), preferred are those containing in the molecule at least one alkyl chain having at least 16 carbons. Nonlimiting examples of such preferred cationic compounds include: behenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename INCROQUAT TMC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei; cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride available, for example, with tradename CA-2350 from Nikko Chemicals, dialkyl (14-18) dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dihydrogenated tallow alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, di ehenyl/arachidyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, and dibehenyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. Polymeric Stabilizing Agent Polymeric stabilizing agents suitable herein include xanthan gum. The use of xanthan gum as a suspending agent is described, for example, in U.S. Patent 4,788,006, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Combinations of long chain acyl derivatives and xanthan gum may also be used as stabilizing agents. Such combinations are described in U.S. Patent 4,704,272, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
Polymeric stabilizing agents useful herein include carboxyvinyl polymers. Preferred among these polymers are the copolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with polyallylsucrose as described in U.S. Patent 2,798,053, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. Examples of these polymers include the carbomers, which are hompolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an ally) ether of sucrose, or an allyl ether of propylene. Neutralizers may be required, for example, amino methyl propanol, triethanol amine, or sodium hydroxide.
Polymeric stabilizing agents useful herein include cellulose derivatives, hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, ethylene oxide polymers, and ethylene oxide/propylene oxide based polymers. Suitable polymers are cellulose derivatives including methylcellulose with tradename BENECEL, hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose with tradename KLUCEL, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose with tradename POLYSURF 67, all supplied by Herculus. Other suitable polymers are ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide based polymers with tradenames CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs, and UCON FLUIDS, all supplied by Amerchol.
Polymeric stabilizing agents useful herein include polyalkylene glycols. These compounds are particularly useful for compositions which are designed to impart a soft, moist feeling to the hair.
The polyalkylene glycols are characterized by the general formula:
Figure imgf000026_0001
wherein R201 is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, and mixtures thereof. When R201 is H, these materials are polymers of ethylene oxide, which are also known as polyethylene oxides, polyoxyethylenes, and polyethylene glycols. When R201 is methyl, these materials are polymers of propylene oxide, which are also known as polypropylene oxides, polyoxypropylenes, and polypropylene glycols. When R201 is methyl, it is also understood that various positional isomers of the resulting polymers can exist. In the above structure, x3 has an average value of from about 1500 to about 25,000, preferably from about 2500 to about 20,000, and more preferably from about 3500 to about 15,000.
Polyethylene glycol polymers useful herein are PEG-2M wherein R201 equals H and n has an average value of about 2,000 (PEG-2M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-10, which is available from Union Carbide and as PEG-2,000); PEG-5M wherein R201 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 5,000 (PEG-5M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-35 and Polyox WSR® N-80, both available from Union Carbide and as PEG-5,000 and Polyethylene Glycol 300,000); PEG-7M wherein R201 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 7,000 (PEG-7M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-750 available from Union Carbide); PEG-9M wherein R201 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 9,000 (PEG 9-M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3333 available from Union Carbide); and PEG-14 M wherein R201 equals H and x3 has an average value of about 14,000 (PEG-14M is also known as Polyox WSR® N-3000 available from Union Carbide).
Other useful polymeric stabilizing agents include the polypropylene glycols and mixed polyethylene/polypropylene glycols, guar gum, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyacryl amide (commercially available as SEPIGEL 305, Seppic), hydroxypropyl guar gum, starch and starch derivatives. AQUEOUS CARRIER
The compositions of the present invention comprise an aqueous carrier. The level and species of the carrier are selected according to the compatibility with other components, and other desired characteristic of the product.
Carriers useful in the present invention include water and water solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyhydric alcohols. Lower alkyl alcohols useful herein are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbons, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. The polyhydric alcohols useful herein include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and propane diol.
Preferably, the aqueous carrier is substantially water. Deionized water is preferably used. Water from natural sources including mineral cations can also be used, depending on the desired characteristic of the product. Generally, the compositions of the present invention comprise from about 20% to about 95%, preferably from about 30% to about 92%, and more preferably from about 50% to about 90% water. ADDITIONAL CONDITIONING AGENTS
The compositions of the present invention may further comprise an additional conditioning agent. The additional conditioning agents herein are selected from the group consisting of silicone compounds, cationic polymers, high melting point compounds, additional oily compounds, hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants, amines, and mixtures thereof. The additional conditioning agents herein are preferably used at levels by weight of the composition of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, still preferably from about 1 % to about 10%. Silicone Compounds
Silicone compounds are useful as additional conditioning agents herein. The silicone compounds useful herein include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. By soluble what is meant is that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition so as to form part of the same phase. By insoluble what is meant is that the silicone forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, such as in the form of an emulsion or a suspension of droplets of the silicone. The silicone compounds herein may be made by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization. The silicone compounds may further be incorporated in the present composition in the form of an emulsion, wherein the emulsion is made my mechanical mixing, or in the stage of synthesis through emulsion polymerization, with or without the aid of a surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
The silicone compounds for use herein will preferably have a viscosity of from about 1 ,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes at 25°C, more preferably from about 10,000 to about 1 ,800,000, and even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1 ,500,000. The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. Silicone compound of high molecular weight may be made by emulsion polymerization. Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicone compounds having hair conditioning properties can also be used.
The silicone compounds herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes with the following structure (I)
Figure imgf000028_0001
wherein R123 is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000. Z8 represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R123) or at the ends of the siloxane chains Z8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions, and is capable of being deposited on and conditions the hair. Suitable Z8 groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. The two R123 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same group or different groups. Preferably, the two R123 groups represent the same group. Suitable R123 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. The preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil® and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series. Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
Especially preferred, for enhancing the shine characteristics of hair, are highly arylated silicone compounds, such as highly phenylated polyethyl silicone having refractive index of about 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher. When these high refractive index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with a spreading agent, such as a surfactant or a silicone resin, as described below to decrease the surface tension and enhance the film forming ability of the material.
The silicone compounds that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide can also be used. The ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level should be sufficiently low so as not to interfere with the dispersibility characteristics of the silicone. These material are also known as dimethicone copolyols.
Other silicone compounds include amino substituted materials. Suitable alkylamino substituted silicone compounds include those represented by the following structure (II)
Figure imgf000030_0001
wherein R124 is H, CH3 or OH, p1, p2, q1 and q2 are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the average molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000. This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone".
Suitable amino substituted silicone fluids include those represented by the formula (III)
(R125)aG3.a-Si-(OSiG2)p3-(OSiGb(R125)2-b)p4-O-SiG3.a(R125)a (III) in which G is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, OH, CrC8 alkyl and preferably methyl; a denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably equals 0; b denotes 0 or 1 and preferably equals 1 ; the sum p3+p4 is a number from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 50 to 150, p3 being able to denote a number from 0 to 1 ,999 and preferably from 49 to 149 and p4 being able to denote an integer from 1 to 2,000 and preferably from 1 to 10; R125 is a monovalent radical of formula Cq3H2q3L in which q3 is an integer from 2 to 8 and L is chosen from the groups
— N(R126)CH2— CH2— N(R126)2
— N(R126)2
— N(R126)3X'
— N(R126)CH2— CH2— NR126H2X' in which R126 is chosen from the group consisting of hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, a saturated hydrocarbon radical, preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and X' denotes a halide ion.
An especially preferred amino substituted silicone corresponding to formula (III) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" wherein R 24 is CH3.
Other amino substituted silicone polymers which can be used are represented by the formula (V):
Figure imgf000031_0001
where R128 denotes a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl radical such as methyl; R129 denotes a hydrocarbon radical, preferably a C.-C18 alkylene radical or a C,-C18, and more preferably CrC8, alkyleneoxy radical; Q- is a halide ion, preferably chloride; p5 denotes an average statistical value from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 8; p6 denotes an average statistical value from 20 to 200, and preferably from 20 to
50. A preferred polymer of this class is available from Union Carbide under the name "UCAR SILICONE ALE 56." References disclosing suitable nonvolatile dispersed silicone compounds include U.S. Patent No. 2,826,551, to Geen; U.S. Patent No. 3,964,500, to Drakoff, issued June 22, 1976; U.S. Patent No. 4,364,837, to Pader; and British Patent No. 849,433, to Woolston. "Silicon Compounds" distributed by Petrarch Systems, Inc., 1984, provides an extensive, though not exclusive, listing of suitable silicone compounds.
Another nonvolatile dispersed silicone that can be especially useful is a silicone gum. The term "silicone gum", as used herein, means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1 ,000,000 centistokes. It is recognized that the silicone gums described herein can also have some overlap with the above-disclosed silicone compounds. This overlap is not intended as a limitation on any of these materials. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch, and others including U.S. Patent No. 4,152,416, to Spitzer et al., issued May 1 , 1979 and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. Also describing silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. The "silicone gums" will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000 and about 1 ,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.
Also useful are silicone resins, which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems. The crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri- functional and tetra-functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the degree of crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin. In general, silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material. Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein. Preferably, the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1.0. Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly utilized. Preferred resins are offered by General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins will generally be supplied in a dissolved form in a low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluid. The silicone resins for use herein should be supplied and incorporated into the present compositions in such dissolved form, as will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins can enhance deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and can enhance the glossiness of hair with high refractive index volumes.
Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such as the material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available as Tospearl™ from Toshiba Silicones.
The method of manufacturing these silicone compounds, can be found in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989.
Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH3)3SiO05; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH3)SiO., 5; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit SiO2. Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T, and Q' denote substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence. Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxyl, etc. The molar ratios of the various units, either in terms of subscripts to the symbols indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an average thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.
The silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ and MDTQ resins. Thus, the preferred silicone substituent is methyl. Especially preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
Commercially available silicone compounds which are useful herein include Dimethicone with tradename D-130, cetyl Dimethicone with tradename DC2502, stearyl Dimethicone with tradename DC2503, emulsified polydimethyl siloxanes with tradenames DC1664 and DC1784, and alkyl grafted copolymer silicone emulsion with tradename DC2-2845; all available from Dow Corning Corporation, and emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone as described in GB application 2,303,857. Cationic Polymers Cationic polymers are useful as additional conditioning agents herein. As used herein, the term "polymer" shall include materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
Preferably, the cationic polymer is a water-soluble cationic polymer. By "water soluble" cationic polymer, what is meant is a polymer which is sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the naked eye at a concentration of 0.1% in water (distilled or equivalent) at 25°C. The preferred polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear solution at 0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration. The cationic polymers hereof will generally have a weight average molecular weight which is at least about 5,000, typically at least about 10,000, and is less than about 10 million. Preferably, the molecular weight is from about 100,000 to about 2 million. The cationic polymers will generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic charge density is preferably at least about 0.1 meq/gram, more preferably at least about 1.5 meq/gram, even more preferably at least about 1.1 meq/gram, still more preferably at least about 1.2 meq/gram. Cationic charge density of the cationic polymer can be determined according to the Kjeldahl Method. Those skilled in the art will recognize that the charge density of amino-containing polymers may vary depending upon pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be within the above limits at the pH of intended use.
Any anionic counterions can be utilized for the cationic polymers so long as the water solubility criteria is met. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g., Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate. Others can also be used, as this list is not exclusive.
The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a substituent, on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymers. Thus, the cationic polymer can comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units. Such polymers are known in the art, and a variety can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1982).
Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, and vinyl pyrrolidone. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C. - C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1 - C3 alkyl groups. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (made by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol, and ethylene glycol.
The cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred. Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form, and then optionally can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction. Amines can also be similarly quaternized subsequent to formation of the polymer. For example, tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by reaction with a salt of the formula R118X wherein R118 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a C, - C7 alkyl, more preferably a C, - C3 alkyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above.
Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl portions of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C, - C3 alkyls, more preferably C1 and C2 alkyls. Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein the alkyl groups are preferably C, - C7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C - C3, alkyls.
The cationic polymers hereof can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2- pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquatemium 7, respectively; and mineral acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and co-polymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent 4,009,256.
Other suitable cationic polymers are amphoteric terpolymers consisting of acrylic acid methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride and methyl acrylate, having a structure as shown below referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 47. An example of a suitable commercial material is MERQUAT 2001® wherein the ratio of n6:n7:n8 is 45:45:10 supplied by Calgon Corp.
Figure imgf000036_0001
Other cationic polymers that can be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.
Cationic polysaccharide polymer materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula:
Figure imgf000036_0002
wherein: Z7 is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residual, R119 is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene group, or combination thereof, R120, R121, and R122 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R120, R121 and R122) preferably being about 20 or less, and X is as previously described.
Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in their Polymer JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200®. Other cationic polymers that can be used include cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride commercially available from Celanese Corp. in their Jaguar R series. Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581.
Particularly useful cationic polymers herein include Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquatemium-24, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-47, and mixtures thereof. High Melting Point Compound The compositions may comprise a high melting point compound having a melting point of at least about 25°C selected from the group consisting of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, hydrocarbons, steroids, and mixtures thereof. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that these high melting point compounds cover the hair surface and reduce friction, thereby resulting in providing smooth feel on the hair and ease of combing. It is understood by the artisan that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can in some instances fall into more than one classification, e.g., some fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given classification is not intended to be a limitation on that particular compound, but is done so for convenience of classification and nomenclature. Further, it is understood by the artisan that, depending on the number and position of double bonds, and length and position of the branches, certain compounds having certain required carbon atoms may have a melting point of less than about 25°C. Such compounds of low melting point are not intended to be included in this section. Nonlimiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.
The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohols include, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty acids useful herein are those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Also included are diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids which meet the requirements herein. Also included herein are salts of these fatty acids. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.
The fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives useful herein include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of compounds having esterifiable hydroxy groups, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives and fatty acid derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing predominantly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; C C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth, and ceteareth compounds just described; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, myristyl myristate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, and mixtures thereof.
Hydrocarbons useful herein include compounds having at least about 20 carbons.
Steroids useful herein include compounds such as cholesterol. High melting point compounds of a single compound of high purity are preferred. Single compounds of pure fatty alcohols selected from the group of pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are highly preferred. By "pure" herein, what is meant is that the compound has a purity of at least about 90%, preferably at least about 95%. These single compounds of high purity provide good rinsability from the hair when the consumer rinses off the composition.
Commercially available high melting point compounds useful herein include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol having tradenames KONOL series available from Shin Nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan), and NAA series available from NOF (Tokyo, Japan); pure behenyl alcohol having tradename 1- DOCOSANOL available from WAKO (Osaka, Japan), various fatty acids having tradenames NEO-FAT available from Akzo (Chicago Illinois, USA), HYSTRENE available from Witco Corp. (Dublin Ohio, USA), and DERMA available from Vevy (Genova, Italy); and cholesterol having tradename NIKKOL AGUASOME LA available from Nikko. Additional Oily Compound
Additional oily compounds useful herein include fatty alcohols and their derivatives, fatty acids and their derivatives. The additional oily compounds useful herein may be volatile or nonvolatile, and preferably have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the additional oily compounds may penetrate into the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair. The additional oily compounds of this section are to be distinguished from the high melting point compounds described above. Nonlimiting examples of the additional oily compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992. The fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Nonlimiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alchol, undecanol, octyl dodecanol, octyl decanol, octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, decyl alcohol and lauryl alcohol.
The fatty acids useful herein include those having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, and ricinolic acid.
The fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives are defined herein to include, for example, esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, and bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glyceryl ester oils, and mixtures thereof. Nonlimiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives, include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate, octyldodecyl oleate, oleyl oleate, decyl oleate, butyl oleate, methyl oleate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl isostearate, octyldodecyl isopalmitate, octyl isopelargonate, octyl pelargonate, hexyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, ethyl isostearate, methyl isostearate and Oleth-2. Bulky ester oils such as pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils and glyceryl ester oils useful herein are those which have a molecular weight of less than about 800, preferably less than about 500.
Commercially available fatty alcohols and their derivatives useful herein include: oleyl alcohol with tradename UNJECOL 90BHR available from Shin Nihon Rika, various liquid esters with tradenames SCHERCEMOL series available from Scher, and hexyl isostearate with a tradename HIS and isopropryl isostearate having a tradename ZPIS available from Kokyu Alcohol. Commercially available bulky ester oils useful herein include: trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate with tradename MOBIL ESTER P43 from Mobil Chemical Co. Hydrophilically Substituted Cationic Surfactant
Useful herein are hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one of the substituents contain one or more aromatic, ether, ester, amido, or amino moieties present as substituents or as linkages in the radical chain, wherein at least one of the R101-R104 radicals contain one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from alkoxy (preferably C1-C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (preferably CrC3 polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations thereof. Preferably, the hydrophilically substituted cationic conditioning surfactant contains from 2 to about 10 nonionic hydrophile moieties located within the above stated ranges. Preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include those of the formula (II) through (VIII) below:
Figure imgf000041_0001
wherein n1 is from 8 to about 28, m1+m2 is from 2 to about 40, Z1 is a short chain alkyl, preferably a CrC3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, or (CH2CH2O)m3H wherein m1+m2+m3 is up to 60, and X is a salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate, and alkyl sulfonate radicals;
Figure imgf000041_0002
wherein n2 is 1 to 5, one or more of R105, R106, and R107 are independently an Cr C30 alkyl, the remainder are CH2CH2OH, one or two of R108, R109, and R110 are independently an C,-C30 alkyl, and remainder are CH2CH2OH, and X is a salt forming anion as mentioned above;
Figure imgf000042_0001
wherein, independently for formulae (IV) and (V), Z2 is an alkyl, preferably C,-C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, and Z3 is a short chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxymethyl or hydroxyethyl, n3 and n4 independently are integers from 2 to 4, inclusive, preferably from 2 to 3, inclusive, more preferably 2, R111 and R112, independently, are substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyls, C12-C20 alkyl or alkenyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
Figure imgf000042_0002
wherein R113 is a hydrocarbyl, preferably a C,-C3 alkyl, more preferably methyl, Z4 and Z5 are, independently, short chain hydrocarbyls, preferably C2-C4 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably ethyl, m4 is from 2 to about 40, preferably from about 7 to about 30, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
Figure imgf000042_0003
wherein R1 4 and R115, independently, are C C3 alkyl, preferably methyl, Z6 is a
C12-C22 hydrocarbyl, alkyl carboxy or alkylamido, and A is a protein, preferably a collagen, keratin, milk protein, silk, soy protein, wheat protein, or hydrolyzed forms thereof; and X is a salt forming anion as defined above;
O R
HOCH2— (CHOH)4-C-NH(CH2)— N-CH2CH2OH X"
R117
(VIII) wherein n5 is 2 or 3, R116 and R117, independently are C C3 hydrocarbyls preferably methyl, and X is a salt forming anion as defined above. Nonlimiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include the materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43, quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61 , quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71 , quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-77, quaternium- 78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soy protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed wheat protein, quaternium-80, quaternium-81 , quatemium-82, quaternium-83, quatemium-84, and mixtures thereof.
Highly preferred hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamido ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkylamidoethyl dimonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyl hydroxyethylmonium salt, dialkyloyl ethyldimonium salt, and mixtures thereof; for example, commercially available under the following tradenames; VARISOFT 110, VARIQUAT K1215 and 638 from Witco Chemical, MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from Mclntyre, ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/25, ETHOQUAD S/25, and ETHODUOQUAD from Akzo, DEHYQUAT SP from Henkel, and ATLAS G265 from ICI Americas. Amines
Amines are suitable as additional conditioning agents. Primary, secondary, and tertiary fatty amines are useful. Particularly useful are tertiary amido amines having an alkyl group of from about 12 to about 22 carbons. Exemplary tertiary amido amines include: stearamidopropyldimethylamine, stearamidopropyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, stearamidoethyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldiethylamine, palmitamidoethyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylstearamide. Also useful are dimethylstearamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, myristylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine, ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine. Useful amines in the present invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al.
These amines can also be used in combination with acids such as L- glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic hydrochloride, maleic acid, and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, citric acid. The amines herein are preferably partially neutralized with any of the acids at a molar ratio of the amine to the acid of from about 1 : 0.3 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 : 0.4 to about 1 : 1. HYDROCARBON OIL
The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a hydrocarbon oil. The hydrocarbon oils useful herein include straight chain, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons which can be either saturated or unsaturated, so long as they have a melting point of not more than about 25°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that, the hydrocarbon oils may penetrate into the hair to modify the hydroxy bonds of the hair, thereby resulting in providing softness and flexibility to the hair. Nonlimiting examples of the hydrocarbon oils are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992. The present invention preferably contains by weight from about 0.01 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% of the hydrocarbon oil.
The hydrocarbon oils useful herein have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Also encompassed herein are polymeric hydrocarbon oils of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of C2.6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers can be straight or branched chain polymers. The straight chain polymers will typically be relatively short in length, having a total number of carbon atoms as described above. The branched chain polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary widely, but will typically be up to about 500, preferably from about 200 to about 400, and more preferably from about 300 to about 350. Also useful herein are the various grades of mineral oils. Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbon oils that are obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbon materials include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use herein are hydrocarbon oils selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, poly α-olefin oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
Commercially available hydrocarbon oils useful herein include isododecane, isohexadeance, and isoeicosene with tradenames PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101 A, and PERMETHYL 1082, available from Presperse (South Plainfleld New Jersey, USA), a copolymer of isobutene and normal butene with tradenames INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago Illinois, USA), mineral oil with tradename BENOL available from Witco, isoparaffin with tradename ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA), and polydecene with tradename PURESYN 6 from Mobil Chemical Co. ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS
The shampoo compositions of the present invention may include a variety of additional components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired characteristics of the final product. Additional component include, for example, polyvalent metal cations, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, and other additional components. Polyvalent Metal Cations
Suitable polyvalent metal cations include divalent and trivalent metals, divalent metals being preferred. Exemplary metal cations include alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium, calcium, zinc, and copper, and trivalent metals such as aluminum and iron. Preferred are calcium and magnesium.
The polyvalent metal cation can be added as an inorganic salt, organic salt, or as a hydroxide. The polyvalent metal cation may also be added as a salt with anionic surfactants as mentioned above.
Preferably, the polyvalent metal cation is introduced as an inorganic salt or organic salt. Inorganic salts include chloride, bromide, iodine, nitrate, or sulfate, more preferably chloride or sulfate. Organic salts include L-glutamate, lactate, malate, succinate, acetate, fumarate, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, and tartarate.
It will be clear to those skilled in the art that, if polyvalent salts of the anionic surfactant are used as the mode of introducing the polyvalent metal cations into the compositions hereof, only a fraction of the anionic surfactant may be of polyvalent form, the remainder of the anionic surfactant being necessarily added in monovalent form.
Hardness of the conditioning shampoo compositions can be measured by standard methods in the art, such as by ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA) titration. In the event that the composition contains dyes or other color materials that interfere with the ability of EDTA titration to yield a perceptible color change, hardness should be determined from the composition in the absence of the interfering dye or color.
Ethoxylated Glucose Derivatives
A preferred additional component is an ethoxylated glucose derivative, particularly for increasing the viscosity of compositions, and for the phase stability of compositions at high and low temperatures. When present, the ethoxylated glucose derivative is included at a level of from about 0.1% to about 10%, and more typically from about 0.3% to about 5.0%, by weight, of the composition.
Suitable ethoxylated glucose derivatives include methyl gluceth 10, methyl gluceth 20, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate, PPG-10 methylglycose ether, and PPG-20 methylglycose ether. Commercially available material highly suitable herein include methyl gluceth 10 with tradename GLUCAM E-10, PEG-120 methylglucose dioleatewith tradename Glucamate DOE-120, PPG-10 methylglucose ether with tradename GLUCAM P-10, and PPG-20 methylglucose ether with tradename GLUCAM P-20, all available from Amerchol. Other Additional Components
A wide variety of other additional components can be formulated into the present compositions. These include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolyzed collagen with tradename Peptein 2000 available from Hormel, vitamin E with tradename Emix-d available from Eisai, panthenol available from Roche, panthenyl ethyl ether available from Roche, hydrolysed keratin, proteins, plant extracts, and nutrients; emulsifying surfactants for dispersing water insoluble components in the carrier; hair-fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers, and silicone grafted copolymers; optical brighteners such as polystyrylstilbenes, triazinstilbenes, hydroxycoumarins, aminocoumarins, triazoles, pyrazolines, oxazoles, pyrenes, porphyrins, and imidazoles; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusting agents, such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents, such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, perborate and persulfate salts; hair reducing agents such as the thioglycolates; perfumes; and sequestering agents, such as disodium ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; ultraviolet and infrared screening and absorbing agents such as octyl salicylate. Such other additional components generally are used individually at levels from about 0.01 % to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.05% to about 5.0% by weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name, or otherwise defined below.
The compositions of the present invention are suitable for cleaning the hair, and are particularly useful for making products in the form of a homogeneous single phase emulsion.
Examples 1 through 6 are conditioning shampoo compositions of the present invention which are particularly useful for cleaning the hair. Compositions
Figure imgf000048_0001
Figure imgf000049_0001
Definitions of Components
*1 Pentaerythritol Tetraisostearate: KAK PTI obtained by Kokyu alcohol.
* 2 Pentaerythritol Tetraoleate: Available from Shin Nihon Rika.
* 3 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate : Available from Shin Nihon Rika. *4 Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate: KAK TTI obtained by Kokyu Alcohol. *5 Trisocetyl Citrate: Available from Bernel. *6 N-cocoyl-L-glutamate: Amisoft CT-12S available fromAjinomoto. *7 Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate : Emcol 4400-1 available fromWitco *8 Cocamidopropylbetaine : Tego Betaine F available fromTH Goldschmidt *9 Ethyleneglycol Distearate: Ethyleneglycol Distearate available fromTH
Goldschmidt *10 Stearamide MEA : Witcamide 70 available fromWitco. *11 Titanated Mica: Timiron MP-1005 available fromMerck. *12 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose: Available from Aqualon.
*13 Polyoxyethylene (2000): WSR N-10 obtained Amerchol.
*14 Behenyl trimethylammonium chloride : Econol TM22 available fromSanyo
Kasei *15 Polyquaternium-10: UCare Polymer LR400 available fromAmerchol *16 Polyquaternium-24 : Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 available fromAmerchol *17 Polyquatemium-47 : Merquat 2001 available fromCalgon *18 Silicone emulsion: Emulsion of 1 ,00,000cp Dimethiconol with particle size of approximately 200nm available fromToshiba Silicone *19 Silicone emulsion: Emulsion of 300,000csk polydimethyl siloxane with particle size of approximately 300nm available fromDow Corning
*20 Dimethicone: 40(gum)/60(fluid) weight ratio blend of SE-76 dimethicone gum available fromGeneral Electric Silicone *21 Alkyl silicone: Silicone alkyl grafted copolymer DC2502 available fromDow Corning *22 Alkyl silicone emulsion: Alkyl grafted copolymer silicone emulsion DC2-2845 from Dow Corning *23 PEG120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate : GLUCAMATE DOE-120 available fromAmerchol *24 Methyl Gluceth-20 : GLUCAM E-20 available fromAmerchol *25 Zinc Pyrithione : available from Olin
*26 Hydrolyzed Collagen : Peptein 2000 available fromHormel *27 Panthenol : available from Roche *28 Panthenyl Ethyl Ether : available from Roche *29 Vitamin E: Emix-d available fromEisai *30 Poly α-olefin oil: Puresyn 6 available fromMobil Method of Preparation
The shampoo compositions of Examples 1 through 6 as shown above can be prepared by any conventional method well known in the art. A suitable method is described below. High molecular weight ester oils, detersive surfactants, and if present, cationic polymers and high melting point compounds, are melted and dispersed in water to form a homogenous premix at elevated temperature, e.g., above about 70°C. If a silicone compound is present, a silicone emulsion is made comprising the silicone compound, a small amount of detersive surfactant, and a portion of water. The remaining components can be added either to the premix, or at the last stage of the process. The premix and, if present, the remaining components, are mixed thoroughly at the elevated temperature and then pumped through a high shear mill and then through a heat exchanger to cool them to ambient temperature. Perfume, and if present, inorganic salts, and the silicone emulsion are added to this obtained cooled mixture. The remaining components can alternatively be added at this stage.
The embodiments disclosed and represented by the previous examples have many advantages. For example, they can provide softness and ease of combing when the hair is wet, as well as provide long lasting moisturized feel, smooth feel, and manageability control to the hair when the hair is dried, yet not leave the hair feeling greasy.
It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art without departing from its spirit and scope.

Claims

WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:
1. A conditioning shampoo composition comprising:
(1) a high molecular weight ester oil being water-insoluble, and in liquid form at 25°C, the high molecular weight ester oil selected from the group consisting of: a) pentaerythritol ester oils of the following formula:
Figure imgf000052_0001
wherein R , R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; b) trimethylol ester oils of the following formula:
Figure imgf000052_0002
wherein R11 is an alkyl group having from 1 to about 30 carbons, and R12, R13, and R14, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; c) citrate ester oils being water-insoluble, having a molecular weight of at least about 500, and in liquid form at 25°C and having the following formula:
Figure imgf000052_0003
wherein R21 is OH or CH3COO, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl, and alkylaryl groups having from 1 to about 30 carbons; and mixtures thereof;
(2) a detersive surfactant selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof;
(3) a stabilizing agent selected from the group consisting of crystalline stabilizing agents, micas, solid surfactants, polymeric stabilizing agents, and mixtures thereof; and (4) an aqueous carrier.
2. The conditioning shampoo composition according to Claim 1 wherein the stabilizing agent is selected from the group consisting of crystalline stabilizing agents, micas, solid surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
3. The conditioning shampoo composition according to Claim 1 wherein the stabilizing agent is a polymeric stabilizing agent included at a level of from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight of the composition.
4. The conditioning shampoo composition according to Claim 2 or 3 wherein the high molecular weight ester oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils wherein R\ R2, R3, and R4, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbons, trimethylol ester oils wherein R11 is ethyl and
R12, R 3, and R14, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons; citrate ester oils wherein R21 is OH, and R22, R23, and R24, independently, are branched, straight, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl groups having from 8 to about 22 carbons, and mixtures thereof.
5. The conditioning shampoo composition according to Claim 4 further comprising an additional conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of silicone compounds, cationic polymers, high melting point compounds, additional oily compounds, hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants, amines, and mixtures thereof.
6. The conditioning shampoo composition according to Claim 2 or 3 further comprising a hydrocarbon oil.
PCT/US1998/011298 1997-09-17 1998-06-04 Conditioning shampoo composition comprising high molecular weight ester oil Ceased WO1999013835A1 (en)

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