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WO1999056720A1 - Composition contenant un compose d'acide ascorbique - Google Patents

Composition contenant un compose d'acide ascorbique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1999056720A1
WO1999056720A1 PCT/US1998/009349 US9809349W WO9956720A1 WO 1999056720 A1 WO1999056720 A1 WO 1999056720A1 US 9809349 W US9809349 W US 9809349W WO 9956720 A1 WO9956720 A1 WO 9956720A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
ascorbic acid
clay
acid compound
peptizer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/US1998/009349
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Yasuko Suginaka
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Procter and Gamble Co
Original Assignee
Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Procter and Gamble Co filed Critical Procter and Gamble Co
Priority to PCT/US1998/009349 priority Critical patent/WO1999056720A1/fr
Priority to AU72933/98A priority patent/AU7293398A/en
Priority to JP11537162A priority patent/JP2000516643A/ja
Publication of WO1999056720A1 publication Critical patent/WO1999056720A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/23—Sulfur; Selenium; Tellurium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/24—Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/671—Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a topical composition.
  • it relates to a topical skin lightening composition.
  • Skin conditions consumers typical seek to treat include rough and/or broken skin as well as lightening skin and treating hyperpigmentation (such as age spots, freckles, and brown patches associated with skin aging or environmental damage to the human skin). Skin lightening is of particular interest in certain Asian populations.
  • UV rays Irradiation of ultra-violet (UV) rays tends to cause sun-burning, resulting in skin darkening and/or hyperpigmentation.
  • the irradiation of UV rays as a consequence of exposure to sunlight promotes a melanin complex formation in melanocytes located in the basal layer of the epidermis. Melanin is subsequently released from the dendrites of the melanocytes, then diffused to keratinocytes, resulting in hyperpigmentation of the skin.
  • hyperpigmentation may take the form of spots, freckles, blotches, unwelcome general darkening and/or unevenness of the basal skin.
  • Cosmetic products used for treating such hyperpigmentation have ranged from simple, commonly-available materials such as honey and plant extracts to, in recent years, hi-tech synthetic ingredients in a wide variety and array of product forms.
  • L-ascorbic acids e.g., Vitamin C
  • Vitamin C have been employed for various uses other than as a nutrient supplement.
  • L-ascorbic acids are useful as a souring agent, reductant, antioxidant, bleaching agent, and stabilizer in various chemical reagents, foods and beverages; in pharmaceuticals for susceptive diseases such as preventive and remedy for viral diseases, bacterial diseases and malignant tumors; and further as a reductant, UV-absorbent and melanin- formation inhibitor in cosmetics including as a skin-refining, skin-lightening and/or evenness agent.
  • Japanese Laid-open (Kokai) H6-32714, H6-32721, H8-99828, and WO94/001074 discloses a skin treatment composition including ascorbic acid and natural saponite as a thickener.
  • L-ascorbic acid used in such formulations can result in an unstable formulation, particularly in the case of an emulsion-type composition.
  • increased levels of L-ascorbic acids tend to be incompatible with many thickening agents. Such incompatibility may cause the deterioration of the physical stability of the compositions, thereby resulting in, e.g., decomposition and/or insufficient viscosity of the composition in aqueous solution.
  • the present invention is directed to a composition containing an ascorbic acid compound, a crystalline inorganic mineral clay, a peptizer, and a hydrophilic liquid carrier.
  • skin lightening refers altering the appearance of the skin to a brighter, lighter, and/or whitener appearance, and improving hyperpigmentation as compared to pre-treatment.
  • “dermatologically-acceptable” means that the compositions or components thereof so described are suitable for use in contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.
  • safe and effective amount means an amount of a compound or composition sufficient to significantly induce a positive benefit, preferably a positive skin appearance or feel benefit, including independently the benefits disclosed herein, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, i.e., to provide a reasonable benefit to risk ratio, within the scope of sound judgment of the skilled artisan.
  • ingredients such as actives and other ingredients useful herein may be categorized or described herein by their cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the active and other ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or operate via more than one mode of action.
  • composition of the present invention includes an ascorbic acid compound, a crystalline inorganic mineral clay, a peptizer, and a hydrophilic liquid carrier.
  • compositions containing the ascorbic acid compound can provide skin benefits such as the prevention of melanin production and the reduction of age spots, blotches and/or freckles associated with skin hyperpigmentation.
  • compositions having such increased levels of ascorbic acid tend to be unstable.
  • we have discovered including a crystalline inorganic mineral clay and a peptizer in a composition containing an ascorbic acid compound can improve the stability of the composition, even when the composition contains relatively high levels (i.e., more than 1.0%) of the ascorbic acid compound. Such improvement of stability is particularly effective in an aqueous composition.
  • the pH of the composition of the present invention is from about 6.0 to about 10.0, more preferably from about 7.0 to about 9.0.
  • the composition is a topical composition, more preferably, a cosmetic composition.
  • the composition of the present invention includes an ascorbic acid compound.
  • the ascorbic acid compound is selected depending upon its compatibility with the other ingredients, especially compatibility with a crystalline inorganic mineral clay and a peptizer.
  • the ascorbic acid compound may be included as a substantially pure material, for example, which may be an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources.
  • composition of the present invention preferably contains from about 0.01% to about 10% ascorbic acid compound, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 5%.
  • corbic acid compound means ascorbic acid or derivatives thereof which have the formula (I): (I)
  • V and W are independently -OH; R 1 is - CH(OH)-CH 2 OH; and salts thereof.
  • the ascorbic acid compound useful herein is an ascorbic acid salt or derivative thereof, such as the non-toxic alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium salts commonly known by those skilled in the art including, but not limited to, the sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts which are prepared by methods well known in the art.
  • an ascorbic acid salt or derivative thereof such as the non-toxic alkali metal, alkaline earth metal and ammonium salts commonly known by those skilled in the art including, but not limited to, the sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, magnesium, barium, ammonium and protamine salts which are prepared by methods well known in the art.
  • the ascorbic acid salt useful herein is a metal ascorbate having the following formula (II):
  • R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from hydrogen and linear or branched alkyl of 1 to about 8 carbons; M 1 is a metal; and x is an integer of from 1 to about 3. More preferably, R 2 and R 3 are independently selected from hydrogen and linear or branched alkyl of 1 to about 3 carbons; M 1 is sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium.
  • Examples of other preferred ascorbic acid salts having formula (II) include monovalent metal salts (e.g., sodium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate), divalent metal salts (e.g., magnesium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate) and trivelent metal salts (e.g., aluminum ascorbate) of ascorbic acid.
  • monovalent metal salts e.g., sodium ascorbate, potassium ascorbate
  • divalent metal salts e.g., magnesium ascorbate, calcium ascorbate
  • trivelent metal salts e.g., aluminum ascorbate
  • the ascorbic acid salt useful herein is a water soluble ascorbyl ester having the following formula (m): yM2 (HI) CH 2 OR5
  • A is sulfate or phosphate
  • R 4 and R 5 are independently selected from hydrogen and linear or branched alkyl of 1 to about 8 carbons
  • M 2 is a metal
  • y is an integer of 1 to about 3. More preferably, R 4 and R 5 are independently selected from hydrogen and linear or branched alkyl of 1 to about 3 carbons; M 2 is sodium, potassium, magnesium, or calcium.
  • Exemplary water soluble salt derivatives include, but are not limited to, L- ascorbyl phosphate ester salts such as sodium L-ascorbyl phosphate, potassium L-ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate, calcium L-ascorbyl phosphate, aluminum L-ascorbyl phosphate.
  • L-ascorbyl sulfate ester salts can also be used. Examples are sodium L-ascorbyl sulfate, potassium L-ascorbyl sulfate, magnesium L-ascorbyl sulfate, calcium L-ascorbyl sulfate and aluminum L-ascorbyl sulfate.
  • B. Crystalline Inorganic Mineral Clay The composition of the present invention includes a crystalline inorganic mineral clay.
  • crystalline inorganic mineral clay and "CIM clay” refer to a clay having a bundle of crystalline layers.
  • the composition contains from about 0.01% to about 20% CIM clay, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, still more preferably from about 1% to about 5%. It is believed that low levels of CIM clay in combination with high levels of the ascorbic acid compound (i.e., more than 1%) will result in insufficient stability of the ascorbic acid compound in composition. It is also believed that high concentration (i.e., more than 20%) will cause decreasing solubility of the CIM clay in composition.
  • the CIM clay useful herein can include any clay which is generally used as a thickener in compositions. High levels of ascorbic acid compound tends to decrease the viscosity of the composition.
  • the CIM clay useful herein can contribute to maintaining an aesthetically and physically desirable viscosity, in compositions containing an ascorbic acid compound.
  • the CIM clay of the present invention is a synthetic clay.
  • the structure of the CIM clay is generally a bundle of individual crystalline layers (e.g., bundles of platelets).
  • Cationic components e.g., metal ions
  • the surface of each platelet of the CIM clay are released into water.
  • a small positive charge on the edges of the platelets is derived due to the localization to the surface negative charges.
  • the ascorbic acid compound of the composition can behave in certain solutions as an electrolyte, releasing positive electric charges (e.g., cations such as hydrogen or metal ions) when dissolved in aqueous solution.
  • positive electric charges e.g., cations such as hydrogen or metal ions
  • Such positive electric charges can associate with negative charges of dispersed CIM clays, reducing such negative charges by neutralization of charges, resulting in reducing the repulsion forces in the emulsion.
  • the CIM clay useful herein includes a two layered type (e.g., Kaolin) and a three layered type.
  • the three layered type includes an expanding bundle and an non-expanding bundle (e.g., Talc).
  • the expanding bundle includes unlimited layer expansion (e.g., smectites) and limited layer expansion (e.g., vermiculites). Such structures are described in Fragrance Journal, vol. 6, p.65-71 (1994).
  • Preferred smectites of the CIM clay herein include monmorillonites
  • the composition of the present invention includes a peptizer.
  • the composition contains from about 0.001 % to about 5% of the peptizer; more preferably from about 0.01% to about 3%.
  • the peptizer tends to reinforce tolerance of electrolytes in a clay thickener system; thereby improving upon the stability benefits provided by the CIM clay.
  • increased levels of the CIM clay will also be required to prevent a reduction of the composition viscosity (gel network breaking).
  • the peptizer reacts with the positive charge on the edges of the clay platelets. This results in elimination of positive charge of platelets, thereby increasing repulsive forces between dispersed platelets. This means that negative charges in the CIM clay dispersion is also increased. Therefore, higher levels of positive charges of the electrolyte and/or the ascorbic acid compound will be able to associate with such negative charges of the CIM clay for stabilizing a clay thickener system. Consequently, increased levels of CIM clay can be avoided by including a peptizer, and the stability of the overall composition will be maintained.
  • Peptizers useful herein include acrylate, bisulfate, bisulfite, carbonate, phosphate, pyrophosphate, silicate, sulfate, sulphonate, or polyphosphate, preferably phosphate or pyrophosphate.
  • the peptizer utilized in the composition of the present invention can be classified differently, for example, by derivative-basis such as sodium salts, magnesium salts, aluminum salts, potassium salts, calcium salts, zinc salts, or ammonium salts.
  • Preferred peptizers employed herein include sodium bisulfate, sodium carbonate, sodium chloride, sodium hydrosulfite, sodium phosphate, sodium pyrophosphate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium carbonate hydroxide, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, potassium carbonate, potassium chloride, potassium sulfate, calcium carbonate, calcium chloride, calcium dihydrogen phosphate, calcium phosphate, and calcium sulfate; preferably sodium phosphate, and sodium pyrophosphate.
  • the peptizer used herein can be incorporated into the composition as a mixture with the crystalline inorganic mineral clay or may be bonded to the crystalline inorganic clay to form a thickener system.
  • the peptizer is preferably present in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about 20 % of the weight of the crystalline inorganic clay.
  • a preferred combination of the CIM and the peptizer is commercially available under the tradename LaponiteTM XLS from Laporte Industries Ltd. (Cheshire, UK) P. Hydrophilic Liquid Carrier
  • composition of the present invention contains from about 1% to about
  • HLC hydrophilic liquid carrier
  • Suitable HLC includes conventional or otherwise known carriers that are dermatologically acceptable semi-solid or liquid fillers, diluents, solvents, extenders and the like.
  • the HLC should also be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and should not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other use benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention.
  • Preferred components of the compositions of this invention should be capable of being commingled in a manner such that there is no interaction which would substantially reduce the efficacy of the composition under ordinary use situations.
  • the type of HLC utilized in the present invention depends on the type of product form desired for the composition.
  • the topical compositions useful in the subject invention may be made into a wide variety of product forms such as are known in the art. These include, but are not limited to, lotions, gels, sprays, pastes, and cosmetics (e.g., semi-solid or liquid make-up, including foundations, eye-makeup, pigmented or non-pigmented lip treatments and the like).
  • product forms may include several types of carriers including, but not limited to, solutions, aerosols, emulsions, gels, and liposomes.
  • Preferred HLC can contain a dermatologically acceptable, non-aqueous hydrophilic diluent.
  • hydrophilic diluents are organic hydrophilic diluents such as lower monovalent alcohols (e.g., C- ⁇ - C4) and low molecular weight glycols and polyols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g., Molecular Weight 200-600 g/mole), polypropylene glycol (e.g., Molecular Weight 425-2025 g/mole), glycerol, butylene glycol, 1 ,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol esters, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, butanediol, ether propanol, ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and combinations thereof.
  • Optional Ingredients are organic hydrophilic diluents
  • the HLC may contain a wide variety of water- soluble or water miscible optional ingredients which can perform one or more 10
  • the composition further contains a hydrophobic phase resulting in the product form of emulsions.
  • a hydrophobic phase resulting in the product form of emulsions.
  • Compositions with both a hydrophilic phase and a hydrophobic phase are also described hereinafter.
  • any optional ingredients are dermatologically acceptable.
  • the optional ingredient should be physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein, and should not unduly impair stability, efficacy or other use benefits associated with the compositions of the present invention.
  • Preferred optional ingredients are capable of being commingled in a manner such that there is no interaction which would substantially reduce the efficacy of the composition under ordinary use situations.
  • Preferred optional ingredients include a hydrophobic component, a pH adjuster, a humectant, a hydrophilic thickening agent, a silicone-containing phase, an amphiphilic surfactant, vitamin B3 and derivatives thereof, a retinoid, or mixtures thereof.
  • the HLC may further contain a hydrophobic component as a hydrophobic phase which contains a lipid, oil, oily or other hydrophobic component.
  • a hydrophobic component as a hydrophobic phase which contains a lipid, oil, oily or other hydrophobic component.
  • the composition contains from about 1% to about 98% of the hydrophobic component by weight of total composition, more preferably from about 1% to about 50%, and still more preferably from about 1 % to about 30%.
  • the hydrophobic component may be derived from animals, plants, or petroleum and may be natural or synthetic (e.g., man-made).
  • Preferred hydrophobic components are substantially water-insoluble.
  • Preferred hydrophobic components are those having a melting point of about 25°C or less under about one atmosphere of pressure.
  • suitable hydrophobic components include mineral oil, petrolatum, C7-C40 straight and branched hydrocarbons, C-1-C30 alcohol esters, glycerides, alkylene glycol esters, propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives, sugar ester, vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils, animal fats and oils, and C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and di-C ⁇ -C ⁇ o alkyl ethers.
  • suitable hydrophobic components include mineral oil, petrolatum, C7-C40 straight and branched hydrocarbons, C-1-C30 alcohol esters, glycerides, alkylene glycol esters, propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives, sugar ester, vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils, animal fats and oils, and C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20 carboxylic acid est
  • hydrophobic components useful herein are set forth in U.S. Patent No. 5,306,514 and to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry 7048, p. 1033 (1983); and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, vol. 1 , p.415-417 (1993). 2. pH Adjuster
  • the HLC may further contain a pH adjuster.
  • pH adjuster refers to any component which is employed to increase or decrease the overall pH of the composition to an optimum pH, thereby preventing decomposition of ingredients (particularly the ascorbic acid compound).
  • An optimum pH is subject to the selection of the ascorbic acid compound.
  • MAP magnesium L-ascorbyl phosphate
  • Suitable pH adjusters herein include acetate, phosphate, citrate, triethanolamine and carbonate. A combination of the foregoing are often employed to adjust to a specific optimal pH for the composition.
  • the total level by weight of total composition of the pH adjuster is from about 0.01% to about 5.0%, preferably, from about 0.5% to about 2.0%.
  • the HLC may further contain a humectant.
  • Suitable humectants for use herein include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose derivatives, hexanetriol, glycerine, glycine, hyaluronic acid, arginine, Ajidew (NaPCA), water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants and panthenols.
  • a preferred humectant herein is glycerine (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin). Chemically, glycerine is 1 ,2,3-propanetriol.
  • Glycerine is especially preferred in the compositions of the invention from the viewpoint of boosting moisturization. Also preferred for use herein is butylene glycol. Particularly preferred from the viewpoint of boosting moisturization is a combination of glycerine and urea.
  • the humectant is preferably present at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of total composition, more preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, and especially from about 5% to about 15%.
  • Nonlimiting examples of humectants useful herein are set forth in U.S. Patent No. 5,306,516 and 5,306,515, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994.
  • the HLC may further contain a hydrophilic thickening agent.
  • the hydrophilic thickening agent is at a level from about 0.01% to about 10% by 12
  • the hydrophilic thickening agent preferably has a viscosity (20°C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa.s, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 20,000 mPa.s.
  • the hydrophilic thickening agent can generally be described as a water- soluble or colloidally water-soluble polymer.
  • Hydrophilic thickening agents useful herein include polysaccharides, gums, mucopolysaccharides (e.g., hyaluronic acid, chondroitin sulfate), carboxylic acid polymers, crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, materials which are derived from natural sources (e.g., Quince Seed) and mixtures thereof; preferably polysaccharides, gums, Agar, or mixtures thereof. See, for example, U.S. Patent No., 4,387,107, to Klein et al., issued June 7, 1983 and "Encyclopedia of Polymer and Thickeners for Cosmetics," R.Y. Lochhead and W. R. Fron, eds., Cosmetics & Toiletries, vol. 108, pp. 95-135 (May 1993). 5. Silicone-containing phase
  • the HLC may further contain as either all or a portion of the oil phase or oil phases, a first silicone-containing phase comprising a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil.
  • a first silicone-containing phase comprising a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil.
  • the HLC contains from about 0.1% to about 20% of the first silicone-containing phase by weight of total composition, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.
  • the ratio of the crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer to the silicone oil is from about 1 :9 to about 4:6, more preferably from about 2:8 to about 7:3, by weight of the first silicone-containing phase.
  • silicone-containing phase useful herein are set forth in U.S. Patent No. 5,733,535, to Hollingshead et al., issued March 31 , 1998. 6. Amphiphilic Surfactant
  • the HLC may further contain an organic amphiphilic surfactant which is capable of forming smectic lyotropic crystals in product or when the product is being applied to the skin at ambient or elevated temperatures.
  • an organic amphiphilic surfactant which is capable of forming liquid crystals at a temperature from about 20°C to about 40°C.
  • the amphiphilic surfactant is capable of forming smectic lyotropic liquid crystals.
  • Nonlimiting examples of amphiphilic surfactants useful herein are set forth in WO97/28785, to Tanner et al., issued August 14, 1998. 7.
  • Vitamin B Compounds
  • the HLC may further contains a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B 3 compound.
  • the vitamin B 3 compound enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, especially in regulating skin condition, including regulating signs of skin aging, more especially wrinkles, lines, and pores.
  • the HLC preferably contains from about 0.01 % to about 50% of the vitamin B 3 compound by weight of total composition, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and still more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5%.
  • vitamin B 3 compound means a compound having the formula:
  • R is -CONH 2 (e.g., niacinamide), -COOH (e.g., nicotinic acid) or -CH 2 OH (e.g., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
  • -CONH 2 e.g., niacinamide
  • -COOH e.g., nicotinic acid
  • -CH 2 OH e.g., nicotinyl alcohol
  • Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B 3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-oxide.
  • Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters of from 1 to about 22 carbons, preferably 1 to about 16 carbons, more preferably alcohols from about 1 to about 6 carbons.
  • the alcohols are suitably straight-chain or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted.
  • the esters are preferably non-vasodilating.
  • non-vasodilating means that the ester does not commonly yield a visible flushing response after application to the skin in the subject compositions (the majority of the general population would not experience a visible flushing response, although such compounds may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye, i.e., the ester is non-rubifacient).
  • tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred.
  • derivatives of the vitamin B 3 compound are derivatives of niacinamide resulting from substitution of one or more of the amide group hydrogens.
  • Nonlimiting examples of derivatives of niacinamide useful herein include nicotinyl amino acids, derived, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (e.g., nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid, and nicotinyl alcohol esters of organic carboxylic acids (e.g., 1 to about 18 carbons).
  • nicotinuric acid C 8 H 8 N 2 O 3
  • nicotinyl hydroxamic acid C 6 H 6 N 2 O 2
  • nicotinyl alcohol esters include nicotinyl alcohol esters of the carboxylic acids salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid and the like.
  • vitamin B 3 compounds useful herein are 2- chloronicotinamide, 6-aminonicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, n-methyl- nicotinamide, n,n-diethylnicotinamide, n-(hydroxymethyl)-nicotinamide, quinolinic acid imide, nicotinanilide, n-benzylnicotinamide, n-ethylnicotinamide, nifenazone, nicotinaldehyde, isonicotinic acid, methyl isonicotinic acid, thionicotinamide, nialamide, 1-(3-pyridy I methyl) urea, 2-mercaptonicotinic acid, nicomol, and ni
  • Nonlimiting examples of the above vitamin B 3 compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, Wl). 15
  • vitamin B 3 compounds may be used herein.
  • Preferred vitamin B 3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.
  • salts, derivatives, and salt derivatives of niacinamide are preferably those having substantially the same efficacy as niacinamide in the methods of regulating skin condition described herein.
  • Salts of the vitamin B 3 compound are also useful herein.
  • Nonlimiting examples of salts of the vitamin B 3 compound useful herein include organic or inorganic salts, such as inorganic salts with anionic inorganic species (e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride), and organic carboxylic acid salts (including mono-, di- and tri- C-
  • anionic inorganic species e.g., chloride, bromide, iodide, carbonate, preferably chloride
  • organic carboxylic acid salts including mono-, di- and tri- C-
  • Wenner "The Reaction of L-Ascorbic and D-losascorbic Acid with Nicotinic Acid and Its Amide", J. Organic Chemistry, Vol. 14, 22-26 (1949). Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbic acid salt of niacinamide.
  • the ring nitrogen of the vitamin B 3 compound is substantially chemically free (e.g., unbound and/or unhindered), or after delivery to the skin becomes substantially chemically free ("chemically free” is hereinafter alternatively referred to as "uncomplexed”). More preferably, the vitamin B 3 compound is essentially uncomplexed. Therefore, if the composition contains the vitamin B 3 compound in a salt or otherwise complexed form, such complex is preferably substantially reversible, more preferably essentially reversible, upon delivery of the composition to the skin. For example, such complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of from about 5.0 to about 6.0. Such reversibility can be readily determined by one having ordinary skill in the art.
  • the vitamin B 3 compound is substantially uncomplexed in the composition prior to delivery to the skin.
  • Exemplary approaches to minimizing or preventing the formation of undesirable complexes include omission of materials which form substantially irreversible or other complexes with the vitamin B 3 compound, pH adjustment, ionic strength adjustment, the use of surfactants, and formulating wherein the vitamin B 3 compound and materials 16
  • the vitamin B 3 compound contains a limited amount of the salt form and is more preferably substantially free of salts of a vitamin B 3 compound.
  • the vitamin B 3 compound contains less than about 50% of such salt, and is more preferably essentially free of the salt form.
  • the vitamin B 3 compound in the compositions hereof having a pH of from about 4 to about 7 typically contain less than about 50% of the salt.
  • the vitamin B 3 compound may be included as the substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources.
  • the vitamin B 3 compound is preferably substantially pure, more preferably essentially pure.
  • the HLC may further contain a retinoid.
  • the retinoid enhances the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, especially in regulating skin condition, including regulating signs of skin aging, more especially wrinkles, lines, and pores.
  • retinoid includes all natural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamin A or retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds.
  • the retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2 - C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid), more preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid.
  • retinol retinol esters
  • retinyl esters e.g., C2 - C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate
  • retinal and
  • Suitable retinoids are tocopheryl-retinoate [tocopherol ester of retinoic acid (trans- or cis-), adapalene ⁇ 6-[3-(1-adamantyl)-4-methoxyphenyl]-2-naphthoic acid ⁇ , and tazarotene (ethyl 6-[2-(4,4-dimethylthiochroman-6-yl)-ethynyl]nicotinate).
  • One or more retinoids may be used herein.
  • Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl 17
  • retinyl acetate retinyl proprionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate.
  • the HLC preferably contains from about 0.005% to about 2% of retinoid by weight of total composition; retinol esters are preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% (e.g., about 1 %) by weight of total composition; retinoic acids are preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 0.25% by weight of total composition; tocopheryl-retinoate, adapalene, and tazarotene are most preferably used in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of total composition.
  • the composition contains both a retinoid and a
  • Vitamin B3 compound The retinoid is preferably used in the above amounts, and the vitamin B3 compound is preferably used in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of total composition, more preferably from about 2% to about 5%. 9. Additional components
  • panthenol moisturizer such as D-panthenol
  • keratolytic agents/desquamation agents such as salicylic acid
  • proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof water-soluble or solubiiizable preservatives preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight of total composition, such as Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, EuxylTM K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1 ,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; anti-bacterials such as Irgasan ⁇ and phenoxyethanol (preferably from 0.1% to about 5% by weight of total composition); soluble or colloidally-soluble moisturizing agents such as hylaronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylates such as SanwetTM IM-1000
  • compositions of the present invention are prepared from the following ingredients using conventional formulating techniques.
  • PEG 100 Stearate 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100 0.100
  • Citric Acid 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 0.010 De-Ionized Water up to 100 %
  • 1 Fatty acid ester of sugar A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars and one or more carboxylic acid moieties as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18 mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1 :7 to 3:5, more preferably the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety 20
  • sucrose ester of cottonseed oil fatty acids e.g., SEFA Cottonate.
  • compositions above described are suitably made as follows: (1) Prepare a water dispersion of hydrous magnesium silicate and heat the dispersion up to about 75 °C;

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition contenant un composé d'acide ascorbique, une argile minérale inorganique cristalline, un agent peptisant, et un support liquide hydrophile.
PCT/US1998/009349 1998-05-07 1998-05-07 Composition contenant un compose d'acide ascorbique Ceased WO1999056720A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/US1998/009349 WO1999056720A1 (fr) 1998-05-07 1998-05-07 Composition contenant un compose d'acide ascorbique
AU72933/98A AU7293398A (en) 1998-05-07 1998-05-07 A composition containing an ascorbic acid compound
JP11537162A JP2000516643A (ja) 1998-05-07 1998-05-07 アスコルビン酸化合物を含む組成物

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US6759033B2 (en) 2000-06-22 2004-07-06 Access Business Group International Llc Method for slowing the decomposition of a cosmetic composition
WO2004021967A3 (fr) * 2002-09-05 2005-02-17 Galderma Res & Dev Composition de depigmentation pour la peau comprenant de l'adapalene et au moins un agent de depigmentation
ES2315200A1 (es) * 2007-09-14 2009-03-16 Clayspray, S.L. Composicion cosmetica para administracion topica en forma de spray.
EP1813312A3 (fr) * 2002-09-05 2010-03-24 Galderma Research & Development Composition de dépigmentation pour la peau comportant de l'adapalène et au moins un agent de dépigmentation
US20150024016A1 (en) * 2012-02-23 2015-01-22 Xi Huang Skincare product and method of preparation thereof
US20150086497A1 (en) * 2010-01-06 2015-03-26 Elc Management Llc Skin Lightening Compositions
WO2015181458A1 (fr) * 2014-05-28 2015-12-03 Saint-Gobain Isover Composition de liant pour laine minerale
US11844852B2 (en) * 2012-02-23 2023-12-19 Fe:I Beauty Tech, Inc. Skincare product and method of preparation thereof

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US20070134173A1 (en) * 2005-12-09 2007-06-14 The Procter & Gamble Company Personal care compositions
JP5338030B2 (ja) * 2007-01-31 2013-11-13 大正製薬株式会社 アダパレン含有外用剤組成物
JP5980171B2 (ja) * 2013-06-05 2016-08-31 大正製薬株式会社 アダパレン含有外用剤組成物

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WO1993007855A1 (fr) * 1991-10-25 1993-04-29 The Boots Company Plc Composition de toilette
EP0608433A1 (fr) * 1992-07-13 1994-08-03 Shiseido Company Limited Composition de preparation dermatologique
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Cited By (15)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6759033B2 (en) 2000-06-22 2004-07-06 Access Business Group International Llc Method for slowing the decomposition of a cosmetic composition
WO2004021967A3 (fr) * 2002-09-05 2005-02-17 Galderma Res & Dev Composition de depigmentation pour la peau comprenant de l'adapalene et au moins un agent de depigmentation
EP1813312A3 (fr) * 2002-09-05 2010-03-24 Galderma Research & Development Composition de dépigmentation pour la peau comportant de l'adapalène et au moins un agent de dépigmentation
ES2315200A1 (es) * 2007-09-14 2009-03-16 Clayspray, S.L. Composicion cosmetica para administracion topica en forma de spray.
WO2009034208A1 (fr) * 2007-09-14 2009-03-19 Clayspray, S.L. Composition cosmétique à administration topique se présentant sous forme de pulvérisateur
ES2315200B1 (es) * 2007-09-14 2009-10-29 Clayspray, S.L. Composicion cosmetica para administracion topica en forma de spray.
US9314415B2 (en) * 2010-01-06 2016-04-19 Elc Management Llc Skin lightening compositions
US20150086497A1 (en) * 2010-01-06 2015-03-26 Elc Management Llc Skin Lightening Compositions
US20150024016A1 (en) * 2012-02-23 2015-01-22 Xi Huang Skincare product and method of preparation thereof
US10792240B2 (en) * 2012-02-23 2020-10-06 Fe:I Beauty Tech, Inc. Skincare product and method of preparation thereof
US11844852B2 (en) * 2012-02-23 2023-12-19 Fe:I Beauty Tech, Inc. Skincare product and method of preparation thereof
FR3021651A1 (fr) * 2014-05-28 2015-12-04 Saint Gobain Isover Composition de liant pour laine minerale
WO2015181458A1 (fr) * 2014-05-28 2015-12-03 Saint-Gobain Isover Composition de liant pour laine minerale
US10119211B2 (en) 2014-05-28 2018-11-06 Saint-Gobain Isover Binder composition for mineral wool
AU2015265804B2 (en) * 2014-05-28 2019-01-31 Saint-Gobain Isover Binder composition for mineral wool

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