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WO1997047791A1 - Ameliorations relatives aux tissus de laine et/ou de fibres de polyesters - Google Patents

Ameliorations relatives aux tissus de laine et/ou de fibres de polyesters Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1997047791A1
WO1997047791A1 PCT/US1997/008417 US9708417W WO9747791A1 WO 1997047791 A1 WO1997047791 A1 WO 1997047791A1 US 9708417 W US9708417 W US 9708417W WO 9747791 A1 WO9747791 A1 WO 9747791A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fibers
polyester
wool
sliver
fabrics
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/US1997/008417
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English (en)
Inventor
Arun Pal Aneja
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EIDP Inc
Original Assignee
EI Du Pont de Nemours and Co
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by EI Du Pont de Nemours and Co filed Critical EI Du Pont de Nemours and Co
Priority to US08/860,527 priority Critical patent/US5837370A/en
Publication of WO1997047791A1 publication Critical patent/WO1997047791A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01G—PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G29/00—Arrangements for lubricating fibres, e.g. in gill boxes

Definitions

  • This invention relates to improvements in and relating to fabrics of wool and/or of polyester fibers, and relates more particularly to slivers of polyester cut fiber (sometimes referred to as staple) and/or of wool that are suitable for processing on a worsted or woollen system, and to improvements in processes relating thereto and in products therefrom.
  • Such mohair-like polyester fibers had a combination of the following specific requirements: (1) the polyester polymer had to have a "haze value" of no more than 30%, as defined therein; (2) the fibers had to be a uniform blend of 2 or more differing deniers, within a specific dpf range of 2.5 to 8.5, such deniers differing by at least 5 dpf; (3) the fibers had to have a specific number of crimps/25 mm (3 to 8 per 25 mm length) and a crimping ratio of 3 to 10%; and (4) dynamic coefficient friction between the fibers had to be 0.20 to 0.30, which was obtained by treating the precursor filaments in the form of tow with a polysiloxane and/or polyoxyalkylene-type softening and finishing agent and a cross-linking agent before heat-treating and cutting the filaments to give a variable staple length that was desired. Nihon Ester treated their continuous filament tows before heat-treating and cutting their tows to form their "variable staple",
  • the fibers may be treated in any desired form, for example, as loose fibers, filaments, rovings and yarns. For a continuous process, however, it is desirable to have the fibers m rope-like form such as sliver, slubbmg, top, roving or yarn.” None of Habib' s working Examples specified treating a sliver. Most of Habib' s Examples described treating wool tops. Habib' s Examples 7 and 9 disclosed "DACRON" tows (sold by DuPont) cut on a converter and sprayed with aqueous silicone. The filaments of such polyester tow sold by DuPont in 1968 were of round cross-section.
  • Polyester fibers are either (1) continuous filaments or (2) fibers that are discontinuous, which latter are often referred to as staple fibers or cut fibers, so a qualifying term, such as "continuous filament”, or “staple fiber” or “cut fiber” is often used herein to emphasize the distinction between them.
  • Polyester staple fibers are made by first being formed by extrusion into continuous polyester filaments, which are processed in the form of a tow of continuous polyester filaments before being converted into staple.
  • polyester cut fiber manufactured, used and sold heretofore has been of round cross-section and has been blended with cotton.
  • a typical spun textile yarn is of cotton count 25, and of cross section containing about 140 fibers of 1.5 dpf (denier per filament) and 1.5 inch length. It has been the custom to match dpf and length. Denier is the weight in grams of a 9000 meter length of the fiber and thus a measure in effect of the thickness of the fiber.
  • denier the nominal or average denier is often intended, since there is inevitably variation along-end and end-to-end, i.e., along a filament length and between different filaments, respectively.
  • Polyester/worsted yarns are different from polyester/cotton yarns, typically being of worsted count 23, and of cross section containing about 60 fibers for single yarn and about 42 fibers for bi-ply yarn, with fibers that have been of 4 dpf and 3.5 inch length (4.4 dtex and almost 9 cm) .
  • the yarn count may vary over 55 worsted to 10 worsted, while the denier and length may vary up to about 4.5 (5 dtex and 11.5 cm) and down to about 3 (3.3 dtex and 7.5 cm) . It was only relatively recently that the advantages of using synthetic fibers of dpf lower than the corresponding natural fibers (such as wool) have been found practical and/or been recognized.
  • worsted system Processing on the worsted system is entirely different from most practice currently carried out on the cotton system, which generally uses cotton fiber that is sold in bales and that may be mixed with polyester fiber that is primarily staple or cut fiber, that is also sold in compacted bales.
  • worsted operators want to buy a tow of polyester fiber (instead of a compacted bale of cut fiber) so they can convert the tow (which is continuous) into a continuous sliver (a continuous end of discontinuous fibers, referred to hereinafter shortly and generically as "cut fiber") by crush cutting or stretch breaking.
  • This sliver is then processed (as a continuous end) through several stages, i.e., drafting, dyeing, back-washing, gilling, pm- drafting and, generally, finally blending with wool. It is very important, when processing on the worsted system, to maintain the continuity of the sliver. Also, however, it is important to be able to maintain reasonably satisfactory processing speed for the sliver.
  • a sliver of polyester cut fibers or of a blend of polyester cut fibers and wool fibers wherein the polyester fibers are of average denier per filament about 0.7 to about 4.5, preferably about 0.7 to about 2, of cut length about 3 to about 4.5 inches, and of scalloped-oval cross-section, wherein said sliver is suitable for processing on a worsted or woollen system, and wherein said sliver is slickened.
  • the slickener is preferably a silicone slickener.
  • Figures 1-2 show comparisons of above characteristics evaluated by the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics, as discussed in the Examples hereinafter .
  • 08/642,650 (DP- 6365-A)
  • 08/662,804 (DP-6400)
  • a slickener preferably a silicone slickener
  • the essence of the present invention is the treatment of slivers with a slickener, preferably a silicone slickener, instead of applying the slickener to the actual fabrics, or to continuous filamentary tows that are precursors to polyester slivers of cut fibers.
  • polyester fiberfill is a filling material used in filled articles, such as pillows, quilts, furnishings and the like. This is an entirely separate field from processing on the worsted or woollen system to make spun yarns of polyester fibers, often blended with wool.
  • references to slickenmg of polyester fiberfill are, e.g., in Hoffman, U.S. Patent No. 3,271, 189, Mead et al . , U.S. Patent No. 3,454,422, and m various patents from Marcus, e.g., U.S. Patent No. 4,618,531.
  • the essence of the present invention is that we slicken slivers.
  • the advantages of slickenmg the slivers over treating fabrics with the same silicones is demonstrated in the Examples hereinafter.
  • the advantage of slickenmg a sliver as opposed to a continuous filamentary tow is ⁇ emonstrated nereinafter in a Comparative Test.
  • silicone slickeners examples include silicone slickeners, and in the art referred to.
  • non-Si-slickener materials are also disclosed in the literature. These could be nonreactive dimethyl and the reactive ammo modified and epoxy functional compounds.
  • Preferred materials are "curable" to the polyester fiber. For instance, a segmented copolymer of poly (ethylene terephthalate) and poly(ethylene oxide) . Some such materials are available commercially, such as the textile finishing agent sold under the trademark "ATLAS" G-7264 by ICI Specialty Chemicals, Brussels, but it may be preferred to use materials with less fiber-to-metal friction, as well as a low fiber-to-fiber friction.
  • Another material is sold as "ZELCON" 4780, by E. I.
  • segmented copolyesters consisting essentially of poly(ethylene terephthalate) segments and of poly (alkylene oxide) segments, derived from a poly (oxyalkylene) having a molecular weight of 300 to 6,000 and dispersions thereof are disclosed in Mclntyre, et al . , U.S. Patent Nos. 3,416,952, 3,557,039 and 3,619,269, and in various other patent specifications disclosing like segmented copolymers containing poly (ethylene terephthalate) segments and poly (alkylene oxide) segments.
  • the poly (alkylene oxide) will be a poly(ethylene oxide), which is a matter of commercial convenience.
  • suitable materials include modified poly (ethylene oxide) /poly (-propylene oxide) grafted with functional groups to permit cross-linking, e.g., by treatment with citric acid, such as are available commercially from Union Carbide as "UCON" 3207A or the ammo silicone polymer emulsion available commercially from Ciba-Geigy as ULTRATEX.
  • citric acid such as are available commercially from Union Carbide as "UCON" 3207A or the ammo silicone polymer emulsion available commercially from Ciba-Geigy as ULTRATEX.
  • Ciba-Geigy as ULTRATEX
  • Teijin EP 159882 and in ICI Americas EP 66944 Choice of a particular slickener will depend on the desired end use, and many of the indicated slickeners differ in their ability to lubricate, e.g., to lower fiber-to- fiber and/or fiber-to-metal frictions and amounts of anion groups. If, for example, moisture transport and durability are desired, but softness is not so important, item 12 m EP 66944 may be desirable. Depending on the aesthetics desired, the amount of slickener may be adjusted, between about 0.05 and about 1%, preferably about 0.15 to about 0.5%, on the weight of the fiber, being generally desirable, depending on, e.g., the type of slickener and the effect desired. EXAMPLES
  • the sample silicon (Si) is determined quantitatively by measuring the silicon x-ray fluorescence intensity from a pressed sample pellet using x-ray vacuum fluorescence spectrometer
  • Filaments of poly(ethylene terephthalate) of mixed dpf were melt-spun at 282°C from polymer containing 0.40 weight percent tetraethyl silicate (as described in Mead, et al . , U.S. Patent 3,335,211) and having a relative viscosity of 10.1 (determined from a solution of 80 mg of polymer in 10 ml of hexafluoroisopropanol solvent at 25°C) .
  • the polymer was extruded at a rate of 90 lbs./hr. per position from 44 positions m all.
  • a conventional finish was applied to provide a finish level on the fiber of 0.15% by weight.
  • the effective/nominal denier per filament i.e., the ⁇ enier of the total tow bundle divided by the number of filaments
  • the tow was collected in a conventional tow box and sent to a mill for downstream processing, blending with wool, yarn and fabric conversion.
  • the mixed denier tow was crush-cut to form a continuous sliver of average fiber length 3.5 inches.
  • the sliver was then dyed.
  • the sliver was then treated with durable silicone elastomer finish labeled wet-on- wet application.
  • a 0.25% concentration of ammo methyl polysiloxane copolymer of a 20% aqueous emulsion was made m a water bath at room temperature.
  • the sliver was processed at a rate of 5-10 lbs./hr. through the bath and dried in an oven at 275-300°F for 5 minutes to cure the silicone. This was followed by pin drafting, gilling and blending with wool.
  • the sliver was made into yarn which was woven into fabric with resultant 0.23% silicone according to the invention.
  • the fabric prepared from the slickened sliver of the invention had superior handle characteristics as measured by the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics than either the untreated fabric or as compared to fabric that had been treated by application of the same silicone to the fabric by padding (dry-on-dry) , spraying or dipping. This was surprising since the quantity of silicone elastomer finish applied was similar.
  • the fabric prepared according to the invention (“Silicone on Sliver") was superior in all the primary hand value parameters of fullness (high) , smoothness (high), crispness (low), stiffness (low), and anti-drape (low) of importance in the textile, e.g., suiting market and also the overall handle of the fabric as measured by "Total Hand Value”. This objective analysis was confirmed by an independent panel of judges with their subjective evaluation.
  • Example 2 was carried out essentially as described in Example 1, except that the silicone was applied after blending the polyester sliver with wool In this wet-on-dry application technique, a 0.25% concentration aqueous emulsion was sprayed at room temperature on the polyester/wool blend sliver. The sliver was pm-drafted, gilled, dyed, and converted into yarn. The fabric prepared according to the invention (Si on Sliver) indicated superior handle characteristics .
  • EXAMPLE III In Table 3, data are summarized for fibers spun essentially as described by procedure m Example I, except that the relative proportions of light and heavy fibers and the total effective denier were varied, m items 2 (60 large/40 small) and 3 (50/50), whereas in items 1 and 4 scalloped-oval filaments were spun all (100%) being of the same dpf, and in item 5, all the filaments were of round cross-section.
  • These slivers were made into yarns which were converted into fabrics as described in Example I, with resultant 0.23-0.25% silicone.
  • the resulting fabrics prepared according to the invention had superior handle characteristics in contrast to either fabrics from untreated slivers or fabrics that had been treated by application of the silicone to the fabric.
  • Example III This Example was carried out essentially as described in Example III, except that the amounts of silicone applied to the sliver were varied. Each sliver was treated m a bath containing either 0.125%, 0.25% or 0.43% concentration of ammo methyl polysiloxane copolymer of a 20% aqueous emulsion in a water bath at room temperature. The resulting slivers treated with different concentrations of silicone were made into yarns which were converted into fabrics as in Example 1. The resultant silicone on fabric amounts were 0.25%, 0.26% and 0.27%, respectively, despite the larger differences in concentration applied.
  • a mixed dpf tow of filaments of poly (ethylene terephthalate) in a mixture of approximately 80% by weight of 3.1 dpf and 20% by weight of 7.2 dpf was prepared by melt spinning (from polymer containing 0.5? weight percent tetra ethyl silicate and having a relative viscosity of 8.9) essentially as described in Example I, except that 38 positions, with 19 positions on one side of the machine and 19 positions on the other side, produced the lower denier filaments and 10 positions, with 5 positions on one side and 5 on the other side, produced the higher denier filaments.
  • the spun tow collected in a can had a total denier of approximately 157,000. As-spun properties are indicated in Table 5A.
  • Example I Conventional finish was applied as in Example I .
  • the effective/nominal denier was 1.5 dpf, about 20% of the filaments being of 2.9 dpf and 80% being 1.2 dpf.
  • the tow was collected in a conventional tow box and sent to a mill for downstream processing.
  • the 900,000 denier tow was stretch- broken on a Seydel machine at approximately 225 ypm.
  • the average fiber length was approximately 3.5 inches.
  • the sliver was then blended with wool.
  • This Example was carried out with silicone finish being applied to wool prior to blending with polyester sliver.
  • 0.25% concentration of amino methyl polysiloxane copolymer of a 20% aqueous emulsion was sprayed at room temperature on wool which was subsequently blended with stretch-broken polyester sliver.
  • the sliver of wool blended with polyester cut fiber had silicone, even though the precursor sliver of only polyester cut fiber did not itself have any silicone applied before blending with wool.
  • polyester/wool blend sliver was pin-drafted, gilled, converted into yarn, which was then dyed and woven into fabric, essentially as in Example I.
  • the resulting fabric obtained from this yarn according to the invention indicated superior handle characteristics as contrasted with fabric made from a blended sliver that had no silicone.
  • the sliver itself may be treated with the slickener, e.g., by dipping or passing the sliver through a bath containing the slickener. If, however, the slickener is applied further upstream to a tow of polyester continuous filaments before conversion of the continuous filamentary tow to the sliver of cut polyester fiber, it has proved too difficult in practice to convert the tows into cut fiber of uniform fiber length.
  • polyester filament tows of total denier about 70,000 (about 78,000 dtex) were stretch-broken to form slivers of "cut fiber" on an experimental machine for comparative purposes.
  • One tow was slickened with 0.1% silicone on the weight of the filaments by passing through an aqueous bath containing 2.5% by weight of the silicone and then dried in an oven to cure the silicone on the filaments (essentially as described in Example 1) .
  • the other tow was not slickened.
  • Slivers of the invention may be 100% polyester cut fiber, or may be blends of polyester cut fiber and of natural fiber (such as wool) . Indeed, as demonstrated in Example V, the slickener has been applied successfully to the wool, by spraying on the wool before the wool was blended with the polyester
  • the slickener is probably better able to penetrate between the fibers and so may probably be better able to lubricate more of the surfaces of the individual fibers than when applied to a fabric that is comprised of spun yarns of fibers twisted tightly together.
  • slickener is the term that has been used for slickenmg fiberfill (a different field from that of the present invention) so has naturally been used m the present application, and various slickeners have been suggested in the art, including the art referred to heremabove. Silicone slickeners have always been preferred for commercial and practical purposes, but non-Si-contaming slickeners have also been suggested and used in the fiberfill art, e.g., as mentioned by Marcus in U.S. Patent No. 4,818,599, and in the art referred to therein and elsewhere, for the reasons mentioned in the art.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

Des fibres de polyesters coupées lisses sont présentées en rubans convenant pour être traités sur un système peigné ou cardé, et donnent des tissus ayant une meilleure esthétique. Les rubans peuvent être constitués à 100 % de fibres de polyester coupées ou d'un mélange desdites fibres avec de la laine, semblables à ceux classiquement utilisés dans le peignage ou le cardage ayant pour but de transformer les rubans en filé, à partir duquel on fabrique des tissus et des vêtements.
PCT/US1997/008417 1995-06-30 1997-06-12 Ameliorations relatives aux tissus de laine et/ou de fibres de polyesters Ceased WO1997047791A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US08/860,527 US5837370A (en) 1995-06-30 1997-06-12 Fabrics of wool and/or polyester fibers

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US66289696A 1996-06-12 1996-06-12
US08/662,896 1996-06-12

Publications (1)

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WO1997047791A1 true WO1997047791A1 (fr) 1997-12-18

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR102458028B1 (ko) * 2022-04-15 2022-10-24 (주)그루빅통상 내마모성 및 내세탁성이 우수한 울 혼합 방적사 및 이의 제조방법

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3653955A (en) * 1968-05-20 1972-04-04 Deering Milliken Res Corp Antistatic fiber treatments
WO1997002372A1 (fr) * 1995-06-30 1997-01-23 E.I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Nouveau cable polyester

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3653955A (en) * 1968-05-20 1972-04-04 Deering Milliken Res Corp Antistatic fiber treatments
WO1997002372A1 (fr) * 1995-06-30 1997-01-23 E.I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company Nouveau cable polyester

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
KR102458028B1 (ko) * 2022-04-15 2022-10-24 (주)그루빅통상 내마모성 및 내세탁성이 우수한 울 혼합 방적사 및 이의 제조방법

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