WO1993021897A1 - Permanent waving process - Google Patents

Abstract

The patent relates to a permanent waving process for hair in which the hair is treated before and/or after mechanical waving with an aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance, rinsed after a period during which it is left to act, fixed with a second aqueous preparation of an oxiding agent and again rinsed after a period of action. The aqueous preparation of oxiding agent keratin reducing substance contains an alkyl glycoside of general formula (I): RO-(Z)x in which R is an alkyl residue with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Z is a mono or oligosaccharide and its degree of oligomerisation x for a number from 1.1 to 5, or its addition compound with 1 to 10 molecules of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide, in combination with a surface-active compound A selected from among the non-ionogenic, hybrid ionic and amphoteric tensides and/or a polymeric compound B, with the provisio that when the polymeric compound B is a cationic polymer, it is selected from among quaternised cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride polymers and copolymers, dimethyl amino-ethyl methacrylate vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers quaternised with diethyl sulphate and vinyl pyrrolidone-methoimidazolineium chloride copolymers. The use of this combination of agents improved the properties of the permanently waved hair while reducing the stress on the scalp.

Description

 "Process for permanent shaping of hair"

The invention relates to a method for permanent hair shaping by reductive splitting and renewed oxidative knotting of disulfide bonds in hair keratin.

The permanent hair shaping is carried out according to the known Dauerwe11 method in such a way that the hair is mechanically deformed and the deformation z. B. fix¬ by winding on hair rollers or papillots. Before and / or after this shaping, the hair is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance and rinsed with water or an aqueous solution after an exposure time. In a second step, the hair is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After an exposure time, this is also rinsed out of the hair and the hair is freed from the mechanical deformation aids (curlers, papillots).

The aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing agent is usually made alkaline, so that the hair swells and in this way a deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the hair is made possible. The keratin-reducing substance cleaves a part of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH groups, so that the peptide cross-linking is loosened and, due to the tension in the hair due to the mechanical deformation, the keratin structure is reoriented. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent, disulfide bonds are again formed, and in this way the keratin structure is re-fixed in the predetermined deformation.

A negative side effect of the permanent waving of the hair that is carried out in this way is, however, regularly embrittlement and dulling of the hair. Furthermore, in many cases, other properties such as wet and dry combability, grip, smoothness, softness, gloss and tear resistance are also undesirably influenced. Finally, the application permanent wave preparations, especially in people with sensitive scalp, lead to an undesirable, increased skin stress.

There has been no shortage of attempts to remedy this in the past.

A corresponding modification of the reducing solution generally leads to unsatisfactory wave outputs. The addition of known additives such as structurants, polymers, film formers and crosslinking resins can indeed reduce the damage to the hair; however, the structure of the hair remains more or less weakened.

Furthermore, it is known from DE-PS 4109365 to use preparations with alkyl polyglycosides for long-term processes. However, there is no indication in the publication of certain effects of this component.

Finally, DE-OS 41 07 313 describes the use of alkyl polyglycosides in preparations for shaping human hair.

There was therefore still the task of finding a method of permanent hair shaping in which the undesired side effects mentioned are further reduced or eliminated entirely.

It has now surprisingly been found that a significant improvement in the properties of permed hair with less stress on the scalp is achieved by adding combinations of special compounds to the agents used during the waving process.

The invention therefore relates to a process for permanent shaping of hair, in which the hair is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance before and / or after a mechanical shaping, rinsed after an exposure time, then with an aqueous one Preparation of an oxidizing agent fixed and also rinsed after an exposure time, characterized in that in the aqueous Preparation of the oxidizing agent an alkyl glycoside of the general formula (I),

0- (Z) _x (I)

in which R stands for an alkyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Z for a mono- or oligosaccharide and its degree of oligomerization x for a number from 1.1 to 5, or its adduct with 1 to 10 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide in combination with a surface-active compound A, selected from the non-ionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, and / or a polymeric compound B, where in the event that the polymeric compound B is a cation polymer, this is selected from

quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups,

- dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers and copolymers,

- Dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, and

- Vinyl pyrrolidone-methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers.

The aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance is referred to below as the waving agent and the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent is referred to as the fixing agent.

The alkyl glycosides of the formula (I) which can be used according to the invention are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphatic radicals in the 2-position are preferred. The alkyl glycosides which can be used according to the invention can contain only one specific alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these compounds are produced starting from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case, the alkyl radicals R are mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or corresponding to the particular workup of these compounds. Starting from natural fats and oils, the alkyl residues predominantly have an even number of carbon atoms. Such alkyl residues are for example 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called 'oxo alcohols', compounds with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate.

Alkyl glycosides in which R consists either essentially of CQ and Cio-alkyl groups or essentially of C12 and (4-ATkyl groups) are particularly preferred.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block Z. Sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides are usually used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allos, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl glycosides according to the invention contain an average of 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl glycosides with x values from 1.3 to 2 are preferred. Alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.4 to 1.6 are very particularly preferred.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl glycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention. These homologues can contain an average of up to 10 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit. These products also usually do not represent uniform compounds, but instead have a corresponding homolog distribution depending on the selected ethoxylation process. Such alkoxylated compounds can be obtained, for example, by using ethoxylated fatty alcohols for the synthesis of the alkyl glycosides.

The alkyl glycoside is preferably contained in the fixing agent in an amount of 0.1 to 40% by weight, based in each case on the total fixing agent. Amounts of 0.5 to 20% by weight are particularly preferred. Another active ingredient component according to the invention are the surface-active compounds A, which are selected from the group of nonionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants.

Non-ionic surfactants contain z. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,

Ci2-C22 ~ ' ^: Ettsäuremono- and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,

Glycerol monoesters and diesters and sorbitan monoesters and diesters of saturated and unsaturated C8-C22 ^free acids and their ethylene oxide addition ^products and

Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened castor oil.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COθ (") - or -Sθ3 (") - group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate , and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C 6 -C 16 -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -C00H or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-Al ytaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the ATkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2-i8-AcyTsarcosine.

The compounds with ATkyT groups used in the aTs surfactants can each be uniform substances. However, it is generally preferred to use native vegetable or animal raw materials in the production of these substances, so that substance mixtures with different alkyl chain lengths depending on the respective raw material are obtained.

In the case of the surfactants, which are addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide onto fatty acids or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. “Normal” homolog distribution means mixtures of HomoTogen which are obtained in the implementation of FettaTkohoT and ATkyTenoxid using ATkaTimetaTTen, ATkaTi etaTThydroxiden or ATkali metal alcoholate as Catalytic converters. By contrast, narrow homolog distributions are obtained if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkaline carbonates are used as catalysts. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be preferred.

The fixing agents according to the invention preferably contain the surface-active compounds A in amounts of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total fixing agent.

Another component in active ingredient combinations according to the invention are polymeric compounds B. The cationic polymers used according to the invention are selected from the group comprising quaternized cellulose ethers, polysiloxanes with quaternary groups,

Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers and copolymers, such as. B.

Acrylamide-dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymers, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylpyrrolidone copolymers quaternized with diethyl sulfate, and

Vinyl pyrrolidone-methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers.

Copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, which are commercially available under the name Merquat ^R 550, are particularly preferred cationic polymers.

In the context of the invention, zwitterionic polymers are understood to mean those polymers which contain both cationic and anionic groups or groups which can easily be converted into them.

Cationic groups are, for example, groups which contain at least one ammonium or phosphonium unit; Examples of a unit which can easily be converted into a cationic group are primary, secondary and in particular tertiary amino groups. Ammonium groups are preferred cationic groups.

Suitable anionic groups are, for example, carbon, sulfone and phosphoric acid groups in free form or in salt form. The carboxylic acid groups and their alkali, alkaline earth, aluminum and ammonium salts are preferred anionic groups.

The zwitterionic polymers used according to the invention can be constructed from monomers which contain both cationic and anionic groups. In this case, the polymers can consist of a single type of monomer. However, it is also possible to use copolymers of the monomers mentioned and other nonionic monomers. Such nonionic monomers can be, for example, vinyl-based esters and vinyls, such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, hydroxypropyl methacrylate, acrylamide, vinyl pyrrolidone and Be ethanol. These copolymers preferably contain at least 20%, in particular at least 50%, of ionic monomers.

Polymers preferred in the context of the invention are built up from at least 2 ionic monomers, a cationic and an anionic monomer. Cationic and anionic monomers can be present in a 1: 1 molar ratio. However, it is preferred to use an excess of one type of monomer, in particular the cationic monomers. As a rule, cationic and anionic monomers are used in a ratio of 95: 5 to 60:40. The polymers can furthermore contain nonionic monomers of the type mentioned above in amounts of up to 50 mol%, in particular up to 20 mol%.

According to the invention, preferred zwitterionic polymers are the zwitterionic polymers described in DE-A-39 29 973, which essentially consist of one another

Monomers with quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (II), Rl-CH = CR ² -C0-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ( ⁺ ) R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ Ä ( ^" ) (II) in the R * and R ² independently represent hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , 4 and R ^ independently of one another alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z an NH group or an oxygen atom, n an integer from 2 to 5 and Ä (~) is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid and monomeric carboxylic acids of aTTge have a formula (III), R6-CH = CR ⁷ -C00H (III) in which R *> and R? are independently of one another hydrogen or methyl groups, or ATkaTi, ErdaTkali, aluminum or ammonium etching of these acids.

AcryTamidopropyltrimethyTammoniumchTorid is a very particularly preferred monomer of FormeT (II).

Monomeric carboxylic acids of the general form (III) are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid and 2-methyl-crotonic acid. Acrylic or methacrylic acid, in particular acrylic acid, are preferably used. Prefers Salts of these carboxylic acids used are the lithium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, calcium and aluminum salts. The sodium salt is particularly preferred. Furthermore, the ammonium salts can be used in which the ammonium ion can have one to three alkyl groups with 1-4 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkyl groups with 2-4 carbon atoms as substituents. Salts with unsubstituted ammonium ions and triethanolammonium ions are preferred.

With regard to the production of these zwitterionic polymers, reference is expressly made to the disclosure of DE-A-3929973.

Polysiloxane-polyorganobetaine copolymers are also preferred zwitterionic polymers.

Suitable amphoteric polymers are, for example, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers.

Anionic polymers suitable according to the invention are, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters as well as uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example, polyvinyl pyrrolidone

Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,

Vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and, if necessary, derivatized cellulose ethers.

Particularly good results have been found when the polymeric compounds are cationic, zwitterionic or amphoteric polymers. The use of the zwitterionic and a photomeric polymers is very particularly preferred. The polymeric compounds B are contained in the fixing agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 5% by weight, based on the total fixing agent. Concentrations of 0.01 to 2% by weight are particularly preferred.

In addition to the ATkyTg tycosides, the surface-active compounds A and the polymeric compounds B, the preparations according to the invention can contain all the constituents customary in hair treatment compositions. It depends on the type of agent, which of the components mentioned in the following are included in the agent.

Mandatory component of the fixative are oxidizing agents, e.g. B. hydrogen peroxide and the usual stabilizers for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations. The pH of such aqueous H2O2 preparations which contain about 0.5 to 3.0% by weight of H2O2 is preferably 2 to 4; it is admitted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid. Other preferred oxidizing agents are sodium and potassium bromate. Such bromates are used in concentrations of 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7.

Anionic and cationic surfactants may also be present.

Suitable anionic surfactants in hair treatment agents according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a TipophiTe ATkyTgruppe with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

linear fatty acid with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps), Ether carboxylic acids of the formula R-0- (CH2-CH2θ) _x -CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 10,

Acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl taurides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group, monosulfonic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 C atoms, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 C atoms, alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-0 (CH2-CH2θ) _x -OSÖ3H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-3725030, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ether according to DE-A-3723354

Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-3926344,

Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide onto fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, and sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid ono -ATkyTpolyoxyethylester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the ATkyT¬ group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Finally, quaternary ammonium compounds such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetyl methylammonium chloride may be included. The quaternized protein hydrolyzates are further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention.

Other common constituents of the aqueous solutions according to the invention are:

Thickeners such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates and xanthan gum, structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,

Protein hydrolyzates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolyzates, as well as their condensation products with fatty acids, perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,

Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, GTycerin and DiethyTengTykoT, dyes,

Anti-dandruff agents such as Piroctone OTamine and zinc Omadine, substances for adjusting the pH such as citric acid / sodium citrate buffer,

Active ingredients such as PanthenoT, ATTantoin, PyrroTidoncarboxylic acids, plant extracts and vitamins, light protection itteT,

Consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, PoTyolester or PolyolaTkylether, fats and waxes such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins and fatty alcohols

Superfatting agents such as polyethoxylated lanolin derivatives, lecithin derivatives and fatty acid alkanolamides, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,

Swelling and penetration substances such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and also primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex,

Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether and air, and antioxidants.

The fixing agents according to the invention can be formulated as a cream, gel or liquid. It may be preferred to prepare the preparations in the form of Foam aerosols to assemble, which with a liquefied gas such. B. propane-butane mixtures, nitrogen, CO2, air, N2O, dimethyl ether, chlorofluorocarbon blowing agents or mixtures thereof in aerosol containers with a foam valve.

The corrugating agents contain the usual mercaptans for this as a compulsory component as keratin-reducing substances. Such compounds are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolic acid, 3-mercaptopropionic acid and their salts and esters, cysteamine, cysteine, multicolored salts and alkali salts of sulfurous acid. The alkali metal or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolic acid and the free acids are particularly suitable. These can be used in the keratin-reducing preparations of the first stage of the hair shaping process according to the invention in a concentration of 0.5 to 1.0 mol / kg at a pH of 6.5 to 10. The exposure time for the keratin-reducing preparation is generally 20 to 40 minutes, the thickness of the hair to be treated, the desired degree of deformation, the size of the mechanical shaping aid used (hair curler) and the type of keratin reducing agent being further influencing variables .

To significantly improve the properties of permed hair, it is sufficient if the active substance combinations according to the invention are contained in the fixative. However, the effect is particularly great if the fixative contains the active compound combinations according to the invention and the corrugating agent likewise contains an alkyl glycoside according to formula (I).

Example:

The details in the following formulation examples are in percent by weight.

1) Geldauerwelle:

AlkyTgTykosid with R = Ci2 / i, Z = GTucose and x = 1,4

Fixing solution:

Alkyl glycoside 1 2.0%

Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 6.0%

Natriu TauryTethersuTfat 1.0%

Dehyton ^R AB 30 ² 1.0%

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid 0.4%

Panthenol 1.0%

2-pyrroidone-5-carboxylic acid 2.0%

Xanthan gum 0.1%

Sodium hydroxide solution (45%) 0.8%

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100.0%

Fatty amine derivative with betaine structure (approx. 30% active substance;

CTFA name: Coco-Betaine) (HENKEL) 2) Cream permanent wave:

Corrugated cream:

Alkyl glycoside 23 2.0%

Thioglycolic acid 8.0%

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid 0.3%

Ammonia (25%) 7.3%

A monium carbonate 3.0%

Cetyl / stearyl alcohol 5.0%

Guerbet alcohol 4.0%

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100.0%

Z=Glucose und x=l,6Alkylglycoside with

Z = glucose and x = 1.6

Fixing solution:

Alkyl glycoside 2

Hardened castor oil

Potassium bromate

Nitrilotriacetic acid

Citric acid

MerquatR550 ⁴

Perfume oil

water

Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (8% in water) (MOBIL 0IL)

3) Liquid perm:

Wellotion: alkyl glycoside 1 1.5% thioglycolic acid 8.0% cocoamidobetaine 1.0% ammonia (25%) 6.4% ammonium carbonate 3.0%

4) Liquid perm:

Wellotion:

Alkyl glycoside 2 2.0%

Thioglycotic acid 10.0%

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid 0.3 -6

Ammonia (25%) 2.5

A monium carbonate 4.5%

AbiTRß9950 ⁵ 2.5%

Perfumery q.s.

Water ad 100.0%

⁵ PolysiToxan-PoTyorganobetain-CopoTymer (30% active substance) (GoTd-schmidt) Fixing solution:

Alkyl glycoside 1 2.0%

Fatty alcohol ether sulfate 4.5%

Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 5.0%

Gafquat ^R 755 ⁶ 1.0%

Xanthan gum 0.1%

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid 1.0%

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.1%

Sodium hydroxide solution (45%) 0.8%

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100.0%

quaternized poly (vinylpyrrolidone-dimethyla inoethyl methacrylate) (19% active substance in water) (GAF)

5) Liquid perm:

Parfümöl q.s.

Perfume oil qs

Water ad 100.0%

7 Copolymer of HydroxyethyTceTTuTose and Dianyldimethylammonium Chloride (CTFA name: Polyquaternium-4) (National Starch)

6) Liquid perm:

Wellotion:

ATkyTgTykosid 2 1.5%

ThiogTykoTäure 10.0% cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate 1.5%

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid 0.3%

Ammonia (25%) 2.5%

Ammonium carbonate 4.5%

Gafquat ^R 755 2.5%

Perfume oil q.s. Water ad 100.0 -

Fixing solution:

ATkyTgTykosid 2 2.0%

Fatty cohesion suated 4.5%

Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 5.0%

Xanthan Gu 0.1%

Luviquat ^R FC-550 ⁸ 1.0%

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid 1.0%

Ethylene amine tetraacetic acid 0.1%

Sodium hydroxide solution (45%) 0.8%

Perfumery q.s.

Water ad 100.0%

VinylimidazoTiniu methochloride-vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (50:50) (40% active substance) (BASF) ^" 7) Liquid perm:

Wellotion:

Alkyl glycoside 2

Thioglycolic acid

Cχ2-i8 acyl sarcosine

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid

Ammonia (25%)

Ammonium carbonate

urea

Merquat ^R 550

Perfume oil

water

Fixing solution:

Alkyl glycoside 2

Fatty alcohol ether sulfate

Potassium bromate

Xanthan gum

Citric acid

Merquat ^R 550

Perfume oil

water

8) Liquid perm:

Wellotion:

Alkyl glycoside 2 1.5%

Thioglycolic acid 8.0%

N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate 1.0%

Hydroxyethane diphosphonic acid 0.2%

Ammonia (25%) 1.7%

Ammonium carbonate 5.0%

Urea 2.0%

Perfume oil qs water ad 100.0 # Fixing solution:

Alkyl glycoside 2 2.5%

Fatty alcohol alcohol 2.0%

Potassium bromate 3.5%

Xanthan gum 0.3%

Citric acid 0.1%

Merquat ^R 550 0.4%

Perfumery q.s.

Water ad 100.0%

9) Liquid perm:

10) Schaumdauerwelle:

10) Foam perm:

Corrugated foam:

Alkyl glycoside 1 5.5

Thioglycolic acid 8.0

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 3.5

Ammonia (25%) 6.3

Ammonium carbonate 3.0

Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3

Urea 1.5

Dimethyl isosorbide 1.0

Propane / butane 3.5

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100.0%

Fixing foam:

Alkyl glycoside 1 3.5

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 2.0%

Potassium bromate 3.5%

Fatty alcohol ethoxylate 3.0%

Propane / butane 3.5%

Perfume oil q.s.

Water ad 100.0 h

11) Look perm:

Corrugated foam:

Alkyl glycoside 2 3.0%

Thioglycolic acid 9.0%

Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3%

Ammonia (25%) 6.3%

Gafquat ^R 755 3.0%

Fatty alcohol ethoxylate 2.5%

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate 3.5%

Urea 1.5%

12) Foam perm:

13) Permanent wave lotion:

⁹ poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) (40% active substance) (MOBIL OIL) 10 poly (20) oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate (ATLAS)

Claims

Patent claims 1. A process for permanent shaping of hair, in which the hair is treated with an aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance before and / or after a mechanical shaping, rinsed after an exposure time, then fixed with an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent and likewise after a Exposure time rinses, characterized in that in the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent, an alkyl glycoside of the general formula (I), ^R 0- (Z) _X (I) in which R stands for an alkyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Z for a mono- or OTigosaccharide and its degree of oligomerization x for a ZahT of 1.1 to 5, or its adduct with 1 to 10 MoTeküTen EthyTenoxid and / or PropyTenoxid in combination with a surface-active compound A _r selected from the nonionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, and / or a polymeric compound B, in the event that the poly ere Compound B is a cation polymer, this is selected from quaternized CelTuTose ethers, PoTysiToxanes with quaternary groups, - DimethyTdiaTTyTammoniumchTorid-PoTymeren and -CopoTymeren, - DimethylaminoethylmethacryTat- VinyT- pyrroTidon-CopoTymeren quaternized with DiethyTsuTfat, and - VinyTpyrroTidon-MethoimidazoTiniumchTorid-CopoTymeren, is included. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the ATkyTgTy¬ kosid is selected from the compounds of formula (I) in which R represents an alkyl radical with 8 to 14 carbon atoms and Z is selected from the group formed by glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose. 3. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the alkyl glycoside is selected from the compounds of formula (I) in which R is glucose and the average degree of oligomerization x is a number from 1.3 to 2. 4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the alkyl glycoside in the aqueous preparation in an amount of 0.1 to 40 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 to 20 wt .-%, each based on the entire preparation is included. 5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the surface-active compound is selected from the group of ampholytic and zwitterionic surfactants. 6. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the surface-active compound A is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation. 7. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polymeric compound B is selected from the group of zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers. 8. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polymeric compound B is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation. 9. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that an alkyl glycoside of the formula (I) is also contained in the aqueous preparation of the reducing agent.