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WO1993019722A1 - Amelioration de la resistance au lavage de teintures pour les cheveux - Google Patents

Amelioration de la resistance au lavage de teintures pour les cheveux Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1993019722A1
WO1993019722A1 PCT/EP1993/000756 EP9300756W WO9319722A1 WO 1993019722 A1 WO1993019722 A1 WO 1993019722A1 EP 9300756 W EP9300756 W EP 9300756W WO 9319722 A1 WO9319722 A1 WO 9319722A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair
water
protein
preparation
metal salt
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/EP1993/000756
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Horst Höffkes
Mario Ulbl
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of WO1993019722A1 publication Critical patent/WO1993019722A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A61K8/645—Proteins of vegetable origin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/004—Preparations used to protect coloured hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for improving the wash fastness of hair dyeing using proteins or protein hydrolyzates and metal salt preparations.
  • direct dyes are used. Nitrophenylenediamine derivatives, atrachinone derivatives or naphthoquinone derivatives are used, for example, as direct dyes.
  • oxidation hair dye contains oxidation dye precursors, namely developer substances and possibly coupler substances.
  • the developer substances form the actual dyes under the influence of atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents, for example H2O2, with one another or, in the presence of one or more couplers, under coupling with the coupler substances.
  • the developer substance used is, for example, primary aromatic amines with another pure or substituted amino group located in the para or ortho position or a hydroxy group, as Coupler substances are, for example, metaphenylenediamines, 3-amiophenols or resorcinols.
  • oxidation hair colors are clearly superior to direct hair dyes.
  • the consumer will then use the direct hair dye if he wishes only temporary hair coloring, which can be removed again by washing the hair several times.
  • the consumer desires permanent hair coloring, he will use oxidation hair dye.
  • an additional improvement in the fastness to washing is therefore desirable, especially since a trend towards more frequent hair washing has been observed among consumers in recent years.
  • the fastness to washing of oxidation hair dyeing is not always satisfactory, especially if the hair coloring is in the range of red shades. Hair colorations in the red area of hair previously damaged by previous permanent wave or bleaching treatments are particularly problematic with regard to washing fastness.
  • hair colorants for example silk fibroin (DE-A-31 39 438), gelatin, albumin, keratin and casein derivatives (DE-A-34 37 360) or also general protein hydrolyzates (EP-A-367926) contain.
  • silk fibroin DE-A-31 39 438
  • gelatin gelatin
  • albumin keratin
  • casein derivatives DE-A-34 37 360
  • general protein hydrolyzates EP-A-367926
  • a step-by-step process has now been found with which an improvement in the fastness to washing of hair dyeings can be achieved, but which in principle also applies to other dyed natural fibers, such as, for example, B. wool, silk, feathers, linen, cotton, jute, sisal, regenerated cellulose, modified natural fibers, such as. B. nitro and acetyl cellulose, alkyl, hydroxyalkyl and carboxyalkyl celluloses and synthetic fibers such as. B. polyamide, polyester, polyacrylonitrile and polyurethane fibers can be used.
  • the process according to the invention is based on first dyeing the dyed hair with a water-containing protein preparation containing a dissolved protein or protein hydrolyzate or its water-soluble alkali or alkaline earth metal salts and then with a water-containing metal salt preparation containing at least one dissolved metal salt which is mixed with the Protein preparation forms water-insoluble precipitates, treated.
  • water-soluble proteins are egg albumin or casein, and the water-soluble hydrolyzates of collagen (gelatin), keratin, elastin, casein or vegetable protein, such as. B. soy protein, wheat gluten, almond protein, etc. in the form of their alkali or alkaline earth metal salts into consideration.
  • Water-soluble in the sense of the invention means that at 20 ° C. at least 0.5% by weight of the protein, the protein hydrolyzate or their alkali or alkaline earth metal salts can be dissolved in the water-containing preparation.
  • the protein preparation is an aqueous solution of the protein, protein hydrolyzate or their water-soluble alkali or alkaline earth salts.
  • this simplest embodiment can already be sufficient for treating textile fibers.
  • the proteins, protein hydrolyzates or their water-soluble alkali or alkaline earth salts are preferably incorporated into a water-containing cosmetic carrier.
  • Such carriers are e.g. B. creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, eg. B. shampoos, or other preparations that are suitable for use on the hair.
  • Components of such preparations can e.g. B. be:
  • Thickeners which increase the viscosity of the preparation and thus prevent unwanted wetting of other head areas during use on the hair, e.g. B. fatty alcohols, fatty acids, paraffin oils, fatty acid esters and other fat components in emulsified form or water-soluble, polymeric thickeners, eg. B. methyl * or hydroxyethyl cellulose, starch and vegetable matter,
  • - Wetting and emulsifying agents such as anionic, nonionic or a phytic surfactants, e.g. B. fatty alcohol sulfates, alkanesulfonates, o-olefin sulfonates, fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, ethylene oxide addition products to fatty alcohols, to fatty acids, to alkylphenols, to sorbitan fatty acid esters, to fatty acid partial glycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides,
  • anionic, nonionic or a phytic surfactants e.g. B. fatty alcohol sulfates, alkanesulfonates, o-olefin sulfonates, fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, ethylene oxide addition products to fatty alcohols, to fatty acids, to alkylphenols, to sorbitan fatty acid esters, to fatty acid partial glycerides and
  • - Hair care additives such as. B. water-soluble cationic polymers, pantothenic acid, vitamins, plant extracts and cholesterol,
  • the pH can be adjusted to 5-7 using a pH adjuster.
  • the step-by-step procedure - after the hair dyeing, first application of the protein preparation and then application of the metal salt preparation - is of crucial importance for the improvement of the wash fastness.
  • applying the hair dye and the protein preparation at the same time and then treating it with the metal salt preparation does not lead to an improvement in the fastness to washing of hair dyeings, nor does omitting the protein or metal salt component.
  • Another subject of the invention is therefore the method for improving the wash fastness of hair dyeings, in which the water-containing protein preparation contains alkali or water-soluble alkaline earth metal caseinates in a quantity of 0.5 to 10% by weight, based on the total protein preparation.
  • Suitable metal salts are, for example, CaCl2, Ca (N03) 2, MgS04, FeCl2, FeClß, Bi (N ⁇ 3) 3, MnS ⁇ 4, CUSO4, Ag 03, Al2 (S04) 3, e (N03) 3, Ce (S04) 2, ZnS ⁇ 4 , SnCl2 or (NH4) 2SnCl6.
  • the metal salt preparation can be an aqueous metal salt solution.
  • the metal salts are preferably incorporated into a water-containing cosmetic carrier.
  • the cosmetic carrier the substances already mentioned above for protein preparation come into question.
  • the addition of reducing agents should be avoided in the presence of oxidizing metal salts.
  • the pH can be adjusted to 5-7.
  • the salts of some protein or protein hydrolysates are relatively readily water-soluble, so that precipitation does not occur in the lower concentration range due to the addition of further metal salts.
  • concentrations of the protein preparation to be used according to the invention and the metal salt preparation are therefore to be chosen so high that a visible precipitation occurs when the metal salt preparation is added to the protein preparation at 20 ° C.
  • So z. B. caseinate solutions, the concentrations of which are in the lower limit range, with calcium and magnesium salts are not always satisfactory precipitations.
  • increasing the caseinate concentration within the above-mentioned concentrations leads to success in these cases.
  • metal salts themselves are colored compounds or form colored compounds in the presence of proteins and thus change the color shade achieved with the hair dye can.
  • Aqueous preparations of colorless metal salts which form colorless precipitates with proteins, protein hydrolyzates or their water-soluble alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts are therefore preferred.
  • the invention therefore furthermore relates to the process for improving the fastness to washing of hair dyeings, the aqueous metal salt preparation containing only colorless metal salts which form water-soluble precipitates with the protein preparation.
  • Such metal salts are such.
  • the metal salt preparation can also contain a mixture of different metal salts.
  • the process delivers particularly good results) if the metal salt preparation contains dissolved aluminum ions.
  • Another subject matter of the patent is the process for improving the wash fastness of hair dyeings, where aluminum ions dissolved in the metal saz preparation, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, based on the total aqueous preparation.
  • a particular improvement in the fastness to washing of hair dyeings over such hair, which has not been subjected to the process according to the invention, can be observed if the hair is already damaged. Damage to the hair occurs in particular as a result of reductive or oxidative hair treatment methods such.
  • the method according to the invention is therefore preferably to be used before when the colored hair is ready hair damaged by reductive or oxidative hair treatment methods.
  • Another subject matter of the patent is a method for coloring hair, which comprises the following steps:
  • a hair dye preparation which contains oxidation dye precursors and, if appropriate, oxidizing agents or direct dyes
  • the Hair dyeing can also be carried out with a mixture of different oxidation dye precursors or a mixture of different direct dyes or with a combination of one or more oxidation dye precursors and one or more direct dyes.
  • the oxidation dye precursor can either as such or in the form of their water-soluble salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g. B. isolated as hydrochlorides, sulfates, phosphates, acetates, propionates, lactates or citrates and used in de hair dye preparation.
  • di oxidation dye precursors and any substantive dyes are incorporated into a suitable cosmetic carrier.
  • suitable cosmetic carrier are e.g. B. creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, eg. B. shampoos, aerosols or other preparations that are suitable for applications on the hair.
  • a coloring cream emulsion based on oxidation dye precursors of the following composition was prepared:
  • the ingredients were mixed together in order. After the oxidation dye precursors and the inhibitor had been added, the pH of the emulsion was first adjusted to 10.2 using concentrated ammonia solution, and the mixture was then made up to 100 g with water.
  • the oxidative development of the color was carried out with 3% H2O2 solution as the oxidizing agent.
  • 50 g of the coloring cream emulsion were mixed with 50 g of H2O 2 solution (3%) and mixed.
  • the coloring cream was then applied to approximately 18 cm long so-called leveling strands weighing approximately 2 g and left there at 27 ° C. for 30 minutes.
  • Leveling strands are strands of hair with a damaged (lower) part and an undamaged (upper) part. It is produced by tying off strands of hair in the middle and severely damaging the lower part by alternating permanent wave and ultrabonding treatments three times, while the upper part remains untreated.
  • the hair was rinsed, washed with a conventional shampoo and then dried.
  • the result was a red-violet hair coloring.
  • a 5% by weight aqueous sodium caseinate solution was prepared from the sodium caseinate (average molecular weight: approx. 22,000) offered by Rovita GmbH under the trade name Rovita FN5.
  • the colored strands of hair were then immersed in the 5% sodium caseinate solution for 30 minutes, largely freed from liquid by squeezing and then dried.
  • Each of these strands was shampooed 5 times with a commercially available shampoo, rinsed with water and dried.
  • the relative dye intensity before and after shampooing was then determined by colorimetry.
  • the standard (100% dye intensity) is the dye intensity of the undamaged, non-shampooed part of the hair which has not been subjected to the dye fixation according to the invention.
  • Part of the hair can be reduced by shampooing 5 times with and without color fixation in a comparable way to an extent that is still tolerable in practice (Table 1).

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Il est possible d'améliorer la résistance au lavage de teintures pour les cheveux, notamment de teintures appliquées sur des cheveux déjà abîmés, en traitant les cheveux colorés avec une préparation protéinique à teneur aqueuse contenant une protéine dissoute, un hydrolysat protéique ou bien leurs sels alcalins ou alcalino-terreux hydrosolubles, de préférence un caséinat alcalin ou alcalino-terreux, et en appliquant ensuite une préparation de sels métalliques à teneur aqueuse qui forme avec la préparation protéinique un précipité insoluble dans l'eau.
PCT/EP1993/000756 1992-04-06 1993-03-29 Amelioration de la resistance au lavage de teintures pour les cheveux Ceased WO1993019722A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE19924211451 DE4211451A1 (de) 1992-04-06 1992-04-06 Verbesserung der Waschechtheit von Haarfärbungen
DEP4211451.9 1992-04-06

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1993019722A1 true WO1993019722A1 (fr) 1993-10-14

Family

ID=6456161

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP1993/000756 Ceased WO1993019722A1 (fr) 1992-04-06 1993-03-29 Amelioration de la resistance au lavage de teintures pour les cheveux

Country Status (2)

Country Link
DE (1) DE4211451A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO1993019722A1 (fr)

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1998011863A3 (fr) * 1996-09-18 1998-05-07 Colorant capillaire
EP0857476A1 (fr) * 1997-02-06 1998-08-12 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Usage des agents de tannage pour allonger la conservation de teinture de cheveux
US6083635A (en) * 1994-05-06 2000-07-04 Bayer Ag Conductive coatings
FR2937539A1 (fr) * 2008-10-27 2010-04-30 Oreal Utilisation d'un sel de lanthanide pour proteger la couleur vis-a-vis du lavage de fibres keratiniques teintes artificiellement ; procedes de coloration
WO2022128901A1 (fr) * 2020-12-17 2022-06-23 L'oreal Procédé de coloration de fibres de kératine utilisant deux composés différents pouvant former entre eux des liaisons covalentes et également un sel métallique particulier ou un sel d'un métal appartenant au groupe des métaux de terres rares ou un composé organométallique particulier
FR3117849A1 (fr) * 2020-12-17 2022-06-24 L'oreal Procédé de coloration des fibres kératiniques mettant en œuvre deux composés distincts aptes à former ensemble des liaisons covalentes ainsi qu’un sel métallique particulier

Families Citing this family (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5635168A (en) * 1994-09-21 1997-06-03 Business Resources Group, Inc. Composition for treating hair
US5942009A (en) * 1997-03-28 1999-08-24 Brg, Ltd. Same-day waving and coloring of hair
FR2907668B1 (fr) † 2006-10-26 2012-08-17 Oreal Utilisation d'un compose a base de zinc pour proteger la couleur vis-a-vis du lavage de fibres keratiniques teintes artificiellement ; procedes de colorations

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2817866A1 (de) * 1975-11-26 1979-04-26 Redken Laboratories Inc Polypeptide fuer kosmetische praeparate
US4220167A (en) * 1978-06-05 1980-09-02 Helene Curtis Industries, Inc. Method of restoring normal moisture level to hair with slight to moderate moisture deficiency
EP0116838A2 (fr) * 1983-01-25 1984-08-29 Henry Petrow Solution et procédé pour le traitement des cheveux
US4652445A (en) * 1985-07-31 1987-03-24 Philip Ort Hair treatment and conditioner
EP0437006A1 (fr) * 1990-01-09 1991-07-17 Colgate-Palmolive Company Composition qui protège des cheveux teint contre la décoloration
WO1991014418A2 (fr) * 1990-03-26 1991-10-03 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preparations regenerantes pour les cheveux
EP0469232A1 (fr) * 1990-08-03 1992-02-05 Kabushiki Kaisha Japan Happy Matériaux pour produits cosmétiques capillaires et produits cosmétiques capillaires
WO1992017153A1 (fr) * 1991-03-27 1992-10-15 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Compositions cosmetiques pour les cheveux

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE2817866A1 (de) * 1975-11-26 1979-04-26 Redken Laboratories Inc Polypeptide fuer kosmetische praeparate
US4220167A (en) * 1978-06-05 1980-09-02 Helene Curtis Industries, Inc. Method of restoring normal moisture level to hair with slight to moderate moisture deficiency
EP0116838A2 (fr) * 1983-01-25 1984-08-29 Henry Petrow Solution et procédé pour le traitement des cheveux
US4652445A (en) * 1985-07-31 1987-03-24 Philip Ort Hair treatment and conditioner
EP0437006A1 (fr) * 1990-01-09 1991-07-17 Colgate-Palmolive Company Composition qui protège des cheveux teint contre la décoloration
WO1991014418A2 (fr) * 1990-03-26 1991-10-03 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Preparations regenerantes pour les cheveux
EP0469232A1 (fr) * 1990-08-03 1992-02-05 Kabushiki Kaisha Japan Happy Matériaux pour produits cosmétiques capillaires et produits cosmétiques capillaires
WO1992017153A1 (fr) * 1991-03-27 1992-10-15 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Compositions cosmetiques pour les cheveux

Cited By (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6083635A (en) * 1994-05-06 2000-07-04 Bayer Ag Conductive coatings
WO1998011863A3 (fr) * 1996-09-18 1998-05-07 Colorant capillaire
EP0857476A1 (fr) * 1997-02-06 1998-08-12 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Usage des agents de tannage pour allonger la conservation de teinture de cheveux
FR2937539A1 (fr) * 2008-10-27 2010-04-30 Oreal Utilisation d'un sel de lanthanide pour proteger la couleur vis-a-vis du lavage de fibres keratiniques teintes artificiellement ; procedes de coloration
WO2022128901A1 (fr) * 2020-12-17 2022-06-23 L'oreal Procédé de coloration de fibres de kératine utilisant deux composés différents pouvant former entre eux des liaisons covalentes et également un sel métallique particulier ou un sel d'un métal appartenant au groupe des métaux de terres rares ou un composé organométallique particulier
FR3117849A1 (fr) * 2020-12-17 2022-06-24 L'oreal Procédé de coloration des fibres kératiniques mettant en œuvre deux composés distincts aptes à former ensemble des liaisons covalentes ainsi qu’un sel métallique particulier

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
DE4211451A1 (de) 1993-10-07

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