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WO1989008410A1 - Systeme d'insertion automatique de passant de ceinture - Google Patents

Systeme d'insertion automatique de passant de ceinture Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1989008410A1
WO1989008410A1 PCT/AU1989/000080 AU8900080W WO8908410A1 WO 1989008410 A1 WO1989008410 A1 WO 1989008410A1 AU 8900080 W AU8900080 W AU 8900080W WO 8908410 A1 WO8908410 A1 WO 8908410A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
waistband
loop
belt loop
belt
trouser
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Ceased
Application number
PCT/AU1989/000080
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Paul Charles Wong
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of WO1989008410A1 publication Critical patent/WO1989008410A1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Ceased legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/06—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding
    • D05B35/066—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding for attaching small textile pieces, e.g. labels, belt loops
    • D05B35/068—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for attaching bands, ribbons, strips, or tapes or for binding for attaching small textile pieces, e.g. labels, belt loops for attaching belt loops
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
    • A41F9/00—Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
    • A41F9/007—Belt loops
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2303/00—Applied objects or articles
    • D05D2303/20—Small textile objects e.g., labels, beltloops
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/08—Cutting the workpiece
    • D05D2305/12—Cutting the workpiece transversally

Definitions

  • This invention relates to an apparatus for the semi automatic and automatic attachment of component pieces to the body of a garment, using sensory devices to locate the said pieces relatively to the position of other features on the body of the garment. More particularly, but not exclusively, the invention is applicable to increasing the automation and easing the manual task of attachment of trouser belt bands and belt loops onto the trouser body in a single operation.
  • the waist band is formed from two strips of fabric, an outer waistband strip 1 , and an inner waistband strip, 2, each is hemmed on both edges and facing inwards towards each other. Trapped between the lower edges of the two hemmed strips, 1 & 2, is the trouser panel, 3.
  • Belt loops, 4, are distributed along the waist band, and inserted at various intervals between the strips, 1 & 2, in a manner where the top of the loop, 4, is trapped between the outer and inner band strips, 1 & 2, respectively, and the bottom of the loop, 4, is trapped between the outer waistband strip, 1 , and the trouser panel, 3.
  • This operation is now performed by a specially designed set of folders mounted on a twin needle sewing machine as shown in Fig 2.
  • the inwards hemming of the outer and inner waistband strips, 1 & 2 are performed by special folders, 5
  • the outer and inner waistband strips, 1 & 2 are normally presented as continuous rolls, 8 & 9.
  • the sewing head, 10 is operated it will pull the waistband strips, 1 & 2, through the folders, 5 & 6, which will hem each side of the two waistband strips, 1 & 2, so that the hems will face together and funnel together to meet under the twin needles, 1 1, of a sewing head, 10.
  • the trouser panel, 3, is inserted between the hemmed bands, 1 &.2, just before their confluence, so that the assembly of two waistbands and the trouser panel are sewn together. When it is necessary to insert a belt loop, 4.
  • a further object of this invention concerns an automatic system that will meter out, cut, and reject faulty belt loops from continuous strips, and insert and position the belt loops on the run for the sewing operator while she performs only the guiding function of the trouser panel into the sewing head.
  • the number and position of each belt loop for every garment style and size is stored in the control computer memory so that the operator simply selects on the control panel the relevant style and size of the particular bundle of trouser she is sewing; the operation is completely de-skilied.
  • a further object of the invention is that, because the trouser panels may not be accurately and repeatably assembled, the placement of the belt loops by accurate positioning may not give the most attractive finish to the assembled trouser, therefore it is preferred that some of the belt loops are placed in some desired relationship to trouser features such as seams, darts, and other prominent features.
  • trouser features such as seams, darts, and other prominent features.
  • the pair of jeans already with waistband attached will be automatically indexed so that the waistband will stop under the bartacking needles at each belt loop position, for the placement and sewing of the loop.
  • the number and positions of the loops will be stored in the control computer, so that once recalled for that style and size of jeans, all the loops will be automatically positioned, and where necessary adjusted from their theoretical position to match a seam or other salient feature. Waistband sensors will ensure that the waistband is in the correct transverse position to receive the belt loop.
  • Such an automatic belt loop attachment machine will enable the operator to operate multiple machines, requiring only to load and unload the garments. This example is described in concept only, as it can be readily implemented by someone skilled in the art.
  • Another trouser application is for fashion and suit trousers, in which the belt loops are generally attached in a manner midway between that used for worktrousers and jeans.
  • the top of these belt loops are normally bartacked to the outer waistband and the bottom of the belt loop inserted between the outer waistband and the trouser panel.
  • An implementation for this application is very similar to that described above for use with worktrousers and using a similar loop delivery mechanism, with the difference that only the bottom of the belt loop need to be inserted between the outer waistband and the trouser panel, the top of the belt loop is left free for bartack attachment afterwards.
  • the metered, cut, and quality-passed loops would be inserted between the outer waistband and the trouser panel, face down, from the leg side of the waistband and sewn trapped between the two.
  • the loop positioning is again performed automatically on-the-run by the control computer, with the positions varied where required to align with trouser features such as seams, darts, and pockets.
  • the invention provides means for storage and recall of a large number of data points representing the positions of belt loops for a large number of trouser styles and sizes, and in addition, the coding of which loops must be positioned by measurement and which ones by sensors. It also provides means for the metering, cutting, and fault-sensing of the belt loop, and for its delivery and insertion for assembly and sewing to the body of the trouser.
  • Figure 1 is a perspective sketch of the waistband and belt loop construction typical of workwear.
  • FIG 2 is a perspective sketch of the outer and inner waistband folders attached to a sewing head, normally used for the contruction of the waistband and belt loops shown in Figure 1.
  • Figure 3 shows a perspective sketch of the mechanism preferred for the insertion and folding of the belt loop around the outer waistband.
  • Figure 4 shows the belt loop in various stages of folding as it travels through the outer waistband folder.
  • Figure 5 shows a diagram of a preferred loop metering, cutting, and delivery system.
  • Figure 6 shows the seam sensor position in relation to the belt loop arresting finger position.
  • Figures 1 & 2 shows the construction of the trouser and the folders used in the manual process.
  • the description of the trouser elements and the parts of the machinery used has already been described in the Background to the Invention.
  • This embodiment of the invention automatically meters, cuts, fault-senses, and delivers the belt loop to an insertion mechanism that folds the loop around the outer waistband, all on-the-move, and performs this operation positioning the requisite number of belt loops as defined by the trouser style and size, and varies these belt loop positions where required for match to some trouser feature.
  • Fig 3 shows how the belt loops are inserted onto the top waistband, and as the waistband is hemmed, the loops are folded.
  • the belt loop, 1 1 is delivered on top of the moving outer waistband 12 through the chute 13, a low surface friction clamp plate 14 with arresting fingers 15, is activated to clamp the delivered belt loop 1 1 to the top surface of the outer waistband 12.
  • This clamping action makes the belt loop 1 1 adhere to the outer waistband 12 and move forward with it until it is arrested by the fingers 15; the arresting action also straightens the belt loop 1 1 , if it happens to be delivered out of alignment.
  • Fig 4 shows the stages of folding experienced by the belt loop 1 1 as it leaves the arresting fingers 15 and proceeds through the waistband folder 17 .
  • Fig 5 shows a preferred belt loop metering , cutting, and delivery system.
  • a ratchet type indexer pawl 20 engages with the belt loop strip 21 by pins 22, the pawl which is attached to a reciprocating means, 23, is designed to engage the belt loop strip 21 only in the forward direction.
  • the belt loop strip 21 is fed in between a pair of counteracting wheels 24 & 25; where one of the wheels, 25, is linked by a magnifying lever 26 to a movement sensor means 27, such as a microswitch.
  • the computer controller will discard that loop and feed and cut another.
  • the belt loop strip 21 is fed into a cutting means, such as a powered scissors 28 for cutting to length after positioning over the outer waistband strip 29.
  • the clamp plate and arresting fingers means described beforehand is shown as part 30. Operationally the sequence is as follows.
  • the loop metering pawl 20 feeds a fixed but adjustable loop length, which passes between the join detector wheels 24, 25 and
  • the loop feeder clamp 30 comes down to press the cut loop 31 onto the moving top waistband strip 29.
  • the timing of the lifting of the loop feeder clamp 30 is determined by the distance the waistband has moved as metered by stitch count or a rotary encoder running in contact with the outer waistband strip.
  • the next loop is fed to await its released into the next loop position as determined by the control computer.
  • the operator signals to the control computer by pressing a reset button at a salient position on the trouser panel, such as the fly leading edge position. Once the computer knows this reference position the positions of all the belt loops can be determined.
  • a seam sensor means such as a sensor that will sense the presence of a seam by its multiple thickness of fabric.
  • Fig 6 shows the position of the seam sensor 32 relative to the position of the arresting fingers 33.
  • the seam sensor must be no closer to the sewing needle than the arc of the arresting fingers 33, so that as soon as the seam sensor 32 detects a seam, it signals the arresting fingers 33 to immediately release the belt loop, 34

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

On a mis au point un dispositif permettant de mesurer, couper, détecter les défauts, placer et coudre semi-automatiquement ou automatiquement des passants de ceinture pendant le défilement, dans les positions correctes telles que stockées d'un programme d'ordinateur de gestion, pouvant s'adapter aux caractéristiques du vêtement à mesure que la ceinture de taille est cousue sur un vêtement. Il comprend un moyen permettant de mesurer et de couper une longueur de passant fixe mais réglable, un moyen détectant l'épaisseur optimum du passant de ceinture, un moyen éjectant les passants défectueux, un moyen permettant d'amener et de plier le passant dans la position correcte sur la ceinture de taille pendant le défilement selon ce qui est déterminé par les données stockées dans le moyen de gestion. Il comporte en outre un moyen provoquant une variation de la position théorique dudit passant là où cela est nécessaire, afin d'adapter ledit passant aux différentes caractéristiques de vêtement détectées par un capteur.
PCT/AU1989/000080 1988-03-07 1989-03-02 Systeme d'insertion automatique de passant de ceinture Ceased WO1989008410A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AUPI712388 1988-03-07
AUPI7123 1988-03-07

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO1989008410A1 true WO1989008410A1 (fr) 1989-09-21

Family

ID=3772892

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/AU1989/000080 Ceased WO1989008410A1 (fr) 1988-03-07 1989-03-02 Systeme d'insertion automatique de passant de ceinture

Country Status (1)

Country Link
WO (1) WO1989008410A1 (fr)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0524811A1 (fr) * 1991-07-25 1993-01-27 Pegasus Sewing Machine Mfg. Co., Ltd. Procédé et dispositif pour coudre un ruban dans les machines à coudre
FR2703700A1 (fr) * 1993-04-09 1994-10-14 Guibert Jean Système de coupe automatique de bordage enjolivant les articles travaillés sur machine à coudre .
WO2002072938A1 (fr) * 2001-03-13 2002-09-19 Peter Rombold Distributeur de pieces plates
WO2015157205A1 (fr) * 2014-04-08 2015-10-15 Vf Imagewear, Inc. Pantalon configuré pour des personnes travaillant avec des véhicules à moteur
CN113756018A (zh) * 2017-01-19 2021-12-07 李基先 女性用服装的袢带及袢带缝制方法

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3305716A1 (de) * 1982-02-26 1983-09-08 AMF Inc., 10604 White Plains, N.Y. Vorrichtung zum automatischen bearbeiten flaechiger stoffzuschnitte, sowie in der vorrichtung durchfuehrbares verfahren
EP0209129A2 (fr) * 1985-07-17 1987-01-21 LEVI STRAUSS & CO. Système pour aligner et alimenter des pièces de tissu concourantes dans des opérations de couture
EP0215581A2 (fr) * 1985-09-02 1987-03-25 Galram Technology Industries Ltd. Procédé et système de déplacement d'objets
DE3606130A1 (de) * 1986-02-26 1987-08-27 Brisay Buegelmaschinen Vorrichtung zum ausrichten von grob zugeschnittenen textilen kleinteilen

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3305716A1 (de) * 1982-02-26 1983-09-08 AMF Inc., 10604 White Plains, N.Y. Vorrichtung zum automatischen bearbeiten flaechiger stoffzuschnitte, sowie in der vorrichtung durchfuehrbares verfahren
EP0209129A2 (fr) * 1985-07-17 1987-01-21 LEVI STRAUSS & CO. Système pour aligner et alimenter des pièces de tissu concourantes dans des opérations de couture
EP0215581A2 (fr) * 1985-09-02 1987-03-25 Galram Technology Industries Ltd. Procédé et système de déplacement d'objets
DE3606130A1 (de) * 1986-02-26 1987-08-27 Brisay Buegelmaschinen Vorrichtung zum ausrichten von grob zugeschnittenen textilen kleinteilen

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0524811A1 (fr) * 1991-07-25 1993-01-27 Pegasus Sewing Machine Mfg. Co., Ltd. Procédé et dispositif pour coudre un ruban dans les machines à coudre
FR2703700A1 (fr) * 1993-04-09 1994-10-14 Guibert Jean Système de coupe automatique de bordage enjolivant les articles travaillés sur machine à coudre .
WO2002072938A1 (fr) * 2001-03-13 2002-09-19 Peter Rombold Distributeur de pieces plates
WO2015157205A1 (fr) * 2014-04-08 2015-10-15 Vf Imagewear, Inc. Pantalon configuré pour des personnes travaillant avec des véhicules à moteur
US10004281B2 (en) 2014-04-08 2018-06-26 Vf Imagewear, Inc. Pants configured for motor vehicle workers
US10701989B2 (en) 2014-04-08 2020-07-07 Vf Imagewear, Inc. Pants configured for motor vehicle workers
CN113756018A (zh) * 2017-01-19 2021-12-07 李基先 女性用服装的袢带及袢带缝制方法
CN113756018B (zh) * 2017-01-19 2023-04-14 李基先 女性用服装的袢带及袢带缝制方法

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