USRE15324E - Buttonhole-sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

E. B.'ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLicATloN msn um. 9. 1922.

15,324. 8 SHEETS-SHEET I.

Reissued Apr.A 4, 1922.

n @nl E. B. ALLEN. Y BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED IAN 9, |922.

Reissued Apr. 4, 1922.

Inu-mmh nlllmlmn Juve r1 Iof, (blk E. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. APPLiCATIPN Fill-U JAN 9 1922.

Reissued Apr. 4, 1922.

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nil-r n' l E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLicAHoN FILED MN. 9. 1922.

Reissued Apr. 4, 1922.

E. B. ALLEN..

BurToNHoLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 9.. |82?.-

Reissned Apr. 4, 1922. 15,324.

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B. ALLEN. uToNHoLE SEWING MACHINE'.

APPLiCATlON FILED IAN. 9| |922.

anemie E. B. ALLEN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLicATloN FILED 1AN.9.1922.

Reissued Apr. 4, 1922.

E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

- APPLICATION FILED .IANA 91922. Reissued Apr. 4,

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UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

EDWARD B. ALLEN', 0F NEWTOWN, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGN'OR T0 TI-E SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION GF NEW JERSEY.

T o au whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, EDWARD B. ALLEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Newtown, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following lis a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

The requirements of buttonhole sewing machines for textile fabrics have grown to such an extentithat'there now exists a demand for a machine which not only will produce bottonholes of different sizes or lengths but also buttonholes of other different physical characteristics such, for example, as barred or unbarred bnttonholes of either the straight or eyelet-end variety.

An increase in the range of work produced by a buttonhole machine is naturally accompanied by more exacting demands upon the time and skill of the operator in charge thereof. vIn fact, as the art has developed and the requirements of a buttonhole machine have increased, the mechanism has been complicated to such an extent that the ordinary sewing machine operator can only with great diiculty become possessed of the mechanical skill or knowledge required to care for the machine in adapting it to do the various classes of work forwhich it was designed. 1

The main object of the present invention is to provide an automatic pattern-stitching machine, more particularly of the buttonhole type, whichV will be universal in character, i. e., which will produce stitched patterns having different contours or physical characteristics or, in the case of a buttonhole machine, which will produce all of the commercially required sizes and shapes of buttonholes, and which may be readily and easily adapted or set for the particular work at hand` without necessitating the execution of painstaking or intricate readjustments beyond the range of skill of the ordinary Specieation of Reissued Letters Patent. Reissued Apr. 4, 1922I Original No.p'1,372,472, dated .March 22, 1921, Serial No. 179,139, led July 7, 1917. Application for issue led January 9, 1922. Serial No. 528,084.

nently connected to relatively feed the stitch-.forming mechanism and work-holder 1n a given direction, and a plurality of cams and connections' including a manually selective control, whereby the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder may be relatively fed transversely to said given direction and the selected transverse feeding mot1on compounded with the non-variable feed motion-in the said given direction, to produce any one of a plurality of buttonholes differing in size, shape, contour, or other physical characteristics.

Further objects of the invention will be hereinafter referred to-or will be obvious to those skilled in the art from the following description and claims.

Buttonhole sewing machines have customarily been provided with a work-clamp and means for automatically closing the clamp upon the work and spreading the clamp to stretch the work at the beginning of a cycle of operations and with means for automatically unspreading and opening the clamp to release the work at the end of a cycle of o-perations. In the event of the formation of an imperfectly stitched buttonhole caused, for example, by breakage of the stitching thread, the automatic release of the work is undesirable for the reason that such release necessitates careful and accurate relocation of the wor-k Vin the exact position previously occupied in order that a finished buttonhole may be produced exactly where wanted. The invention, therefore, vhas for a further object to equip the machine with manually controlled means operable during the stitching operationto prevent the action of the automatic work-clamp unspreading and opening mechanism with which themachine is provided.

A further object of the invention is to provide the machine with certain safeguards to insure precision in the sequence of operations of its several trains of mechanism.

The invention is particularly adapted for embodiment in a buttonhole cutting and stitching machine of the type represented in my United States Patent No. 1,179,378 of April 11, 1916. It is to be understood, however, that the invention is not limited to embodiment in machines of any particular type or construction but may be put to use to wit: a stitch-frame and Work-frame.

in various types of pattern-stitching machines or machines adapted for predetermined stitching operations such as will readily suggest themselves to those skilled in the'sewing machine art.

According to the present invention, in its preferred embodiment, the machine is constructed with two relatively movable frams,

n the present instance the stitch-frame comprises the main framework of the machine and sustains the stitch-forming mechanism including the main-shaft and a stop-motion for establishing and interrupting operative relations'between` said main-shaft and the source of power, while the work-frame or work-holder is mounted in the stitch-frame for longitudinal and lateral traveling movements. The machine is provided with feeding mechanism for producing relative stitchpositioning movements between the stitchframe and work-holder. In the embodiment of the invention illustrated, the feeding mechanism comprises a main feed-wheel having a longitudinal-feed cam-element which is connectedto thework-holder to impart longitudinal traveling movements suitable for the production of the longest buttonhole for which the machine is designed. The main feed wheel also preferably has a lateral-feed cam-element to produce lateral movements which may be compounded with the longitudinal movements to feed the work-holder in any desired direction. During a part of the buttonhole producing cycle the main feed-wheel is driven by stitchingfeed actuating means which are connected to the main-shaft of the stitch-forming mechanism and are active only when the stitch-forming mechanism is inoperation. At certain other times during the cycle the main feed-wheel is driven by a rapid-feed shaft to which it is permanently connected and which, in turn, is clutch-connected at intervals to a continuously rotating powershaft.

Removably mounted ony the rapid-feed shaft is a controlling element or wheel which .maibe provided with a stop-motion contro ng cam-track to govern the starting and stopping of the stitch-forming mechanism and with a lateral-feed controlling cam-tack which is adapted for selective connection with the work-holder in lieu of the lateral-feed cam in the main feed-wheel to modify the path of movement of the workholder as produced by the main feed-Wheel. The auxiliary feed-wheel is also preferably provided with tripping mea-ns for automatically throwing out the rapid-feed' controlling clutch upon the starting of the stitchforming mechanism and again upon the arrival of the work-holder at initial position near the end vof the buttonhole producing cycle. .y v

The machine preferably contains buttonhole cutting mechanism comprising traveling cooperative cutting elements actuated by across-shaft independent of the mainshaft and adapted to be vautomatically coupled to and uncoupled from a continuously running element connected with the source of power. Means are preferably provided, which are periodically connected with said driving element for initially closing the work-holder upon the work and spreading the same and then setting ,in motion the rapid-feed actuating means in thelperformance of a buttonhole producing cyc e.

In the present instance a throw-in device comprising a tripping point carried by the rapid feed-shaft is utilizedto start the cutting mechanism and a manually controlled device, operable during the stitching operation, is .provided to render said throw-in device ineffective. The machine is provided with means actuated by the cutting mechanism for unspreading and opening the work-clamp. In Icase of breakage of the stitching thread the operator may, therefore,prevent the release of the work and also, in the present instance, the cutting of the buttonhole. This is an important advantage for the reason that after the work has been carefully placed in the desired position in the Work-holder it will be held in such position even though an imperfectbuttonhole be formed, thereby saving the time which would otherwise be consumed by the operator in carefully re-locating the work in the same position.

In the accompanying drawings, Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4C are front-side, rear-side, front-endk and rear-end elevations, respectively, of the machine, partly in section. Fig. 5 is a plan view of the machine with the bracket-arm shown in section and the parts abovethe section-plane removed. Fig. 6 is a bottom .plan view. Fig -7 is a horizontal section through the bed of the machine showing a part of the feeding mechanism housed therein. Fig. 8 is a vertical transverse'section through the `machinebed and main feed-wheel. F ig. 9 is a vertical longitudinal section through the'machine-bed with certain parts ofthe mechanisml therein in side elevation; Fig. 10 is a perspective view of the main `feed-wheel with a portion broken away to show the feed' controlling cam grooves. Fig. 11 isa disassembled perspective view of the rapid-feed controlling clutch. Fig. 12 is a disassembled perspective view of certain of the automatic actuating devices for throwing the rapid-feed controlling clutch into and out' of operation. Fig. 13 is a perspectiveview of the tripping mechanism for starting the automatic clutch-actuating mechanism.- Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the actuator for the clamp-spreading mechanism. Fig. 15 is a perspective view of the means for tripping the cutting mechanism and the latch for the starting rod. Fig. 16 is a perspective view showing a detail of the tension-release actuating mechanism. I Fig. 17 is a horizontal section through the bracket-arm showing the actuatingmeans for the needle-jogging mechanism. Figs. 18 and 19 are front and reverse views of one of a series of controlling wheels which may be readily substituted for that shown in Fig. 2 tochange ormodify the action of the machine. Fig. 20 is a development in plan of the feed-controlling camgroove in the particular controlling wheel shown on the machine. Fig. 21 is a disassembled perspective view of the cutter-knife holding mechanism. Fig. 22 is a perspective view, parts assem led. Fig. 23 is a top plan view, partly in section, of the take-up, tension and thread-nipper mechanisms mounted uponv loverhanging arm 3 terminating in the hollow head 4. Journaled within and longitudinally of the hollow base 1 is the mainshaft 5 carrying near its rearward end the bevel-gear 6 which meshes with a similar gear 7 secured to the lower end of the upright shaft 8. Fixed to the upper end of the shaft 8 is the bevel-gear 9 which meshes with a companion gear 10 of onehalf its size fixed upon the upper needledriving shaft 11. which is journaled within the tubular arm 3. Directly above and op' posed to the bevel gear 9 is a similar gear 12 which also meshes with the gear 10 and is fixed to the lower end of the take-up shaft 13 journaled in alinement with the shaft 8. It will be readily understood that the gears 9, 10 and 12 are so related as to cause the shafts 8 and 13 to rotate at the same speed but in opposite directions while 'the needle-driving shaft 11 will be driven at double the speed of the upright shaft 8.

In general construction and arrangement of parts the needle mechanism of the present improvement is substantially the same as that disclosed in my Patent No.v 1,161,277, of November 23, 1915, the tubular needlebar 14 being journaled in the upper and vlower bearings afforded, respectively,.by theA bushing 15 and the rotary sleeve 16 and deartly in section, showing the riving its reciprocatory motion from connections including the pitman 17 and the crank-element 18 secured upon the forward end of the needle-actuating shaft 11.

The needle-bar 14 sustains at its lower end the usual laterally jogging needle-block 19 in which is secured the shank of the eyepointed needle 20. As the needle-bar approaches the limit of its upward movement the needle-block 19 is shifted laterally in a manner w'ell known and fully disclosed in my said Patent No. 1,161,277 by means of the angular switch-lever 21 which is rocked by means of the well known pin-and-raceway connection with the endwise movable vertical rod 22 journaled in the head 4. In .the present instance this well known needleblock jogging rod 22 is actuated by means of a cam 23,`F ig. 17, mounted on the shaft 8 and embraced by a follower lever 24 whose extremity is connected by a link 25 to one arm 26, Fig. 1, of a bellcrank-lever whose other arm 27 is formed With an undercut slot to receive the headed pin 28, Fig. 3,

-the present instance cooperates with the reciprocating and laterally jogging needle in the productionof a chain-stitch overseam, may be of any well known construction such, for example, as that disclosed in my Patent No. 1,030,046, June 18, 1912. As usual the loop-taking mechanism s is sustained by the rotary turret 33 journaled in a bearing. bracket 34 mounted within the base 1 and is driven through suitable actuating connections with the main-shaft 5.

The work-frame or work-holder is preferably constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure in my Patent No. 1,136,388, of April 20, 1915. It is mounted upon thetransversely travelling slide-plate 35, Fig. 6, having at its forward end the downwardly projecting apertured lugs 36 fitted to slide freely upon the cross-rod 37 which is carried by the longitudinally travelling slide-plate 38 mounted in suitable slideways 38', Fig. 3, in the top of the bed 1. The transversely travelling or cross-slide plate 35 is formed at its forward end with the closely spaced notches 39, Fig. 5, adapted to receive the shanks. of the headed pivotal studs 40 which depend from the adjacent corners of the laterally swinging clampplates 41. The studs 40 are detachably conined within their respective notches 39 by means of the usual angular spring-plates 42 secured to the under side of the slide-plate 35 and notched at their adjacent edges to embrace and engage the heads of the respective studs 40 below which they may be pressed to release said studs for removal of the clamp-plates 41. ,V

Each of the clamp-plates 41 has secured upon its rearward end the usual bearing bracket comprising the spaced upwardly eX- tending plates 43, 43, Figs.` 1, 2 and 3, whose opposite ends are apeitured to receive a clamp-arm fulcrum-pin 44and a clamp-closing rock-shaft 45. Upon the fulcrum-pins 44 are mounted, in the usual manner, t-he rear ends of the clamp-arms 46 each carrying a pivotally mounted clamping foot" 47 having a serrated lower face which is opposed, as usual, to a corresponding one of the clamp-plates 41. To the upper side of each clamping foot 47, in advance of the pivot-pin 47', is secured a leaf-spring 47 the rearward extremity of which extends under and bears upwardly against the forward extremity of its respective clamp-arm 46, thereby depressing the forward ends and elevating the rearward ends of the clamping feet when the latter are. lifted. The clamping feet are thus caused to assume a position nearly parallel with the clamp-plates 41` when in elevated position and consequently do not interfere with the insertion orremoval of thick or heavy work. The rock-shafts 45 are provided with the usual depending cams 48 which serve to depress the clamp-arms 46 in opposition to their lifting springs 49 to clamp the work. Upon the adj acent ends of Vthe rock-shafts 45 are secured the upwardly extending arms 50 and 51 which are provided with the usual pinandslot connection for insuring the clamp opening and closing movements of said rock-shafts in unison.

One of the rock-shafts 45, 1, is provided with a manually operated arm 52 and with an automatically operated arm 53 `for closing the clamp, while the other of said rock shafts 45 carries an arm 54, Fig. 2, which is normally actuated automatically to open the clamp at the end ot a buttonholeproducing cycle, as will be hereinafter described.

The clamp-spreading mechanism comprises a toggle-device mounted at the rear of the slide-plate 35and adapted to swing the clamp-plates 41 about their pivots 4() to stretch the work. Secured to the top of the rearward portion of the cross-slide plate 35 is a cross-plate 55, Fig. 13, which 'is formed vwith alined slideways', 56 to which are tted the clamp-spreading slide-plates 57 57. Fulcrumed to the cross-plate 55 at 58 is a lever 59 whose opposite ends are connected by means of links 60 and 60', Fig. 5,

to the slideplates 57 57', respectively. The' lever 59 and links60'and 60 form a toggledevice which acts to move the slideplates 57 and 57 simultaneously in opposite directions.l The toggle-device is actuated by means of the lever 61 fulcrumed at 62 to the slide-plate 57 yand is formed'l with a forked described. A stop plate 55 serves to arrest the clamp-spreading o1' toggle-straightening movement of the lever 61 at a position s ightly beyond alignment of the lever 59 and links 60, 60", as will be readily understood. Secured to the outer sides of the outermost bearing plates 43 for the clamparms 46-are the brackets 67 in which are adjustably fixed the screws 68 `whose inwardly projecting heads `are resiliently pressed against the pins 69 on the slide-plates 57 57 by means of the springs 70which are secured to Athe clamp-plates 41 by the screws 66 secured to the cross- 71 and press outwardly against the grooved y ized to impart feeding movements to the work-holder. Journaled within the bed 1 on the vertically depending bearing pin 7 5, Figs. 7 and 8, is the horizontally disposed main-feed wheel 76 in whoseliat 'upper side are cut the feed` controlling cam-grooves 77 and 7 8. The longitudinal-feed cam-element 77 is substantially heart-shaped and is utilized to impart longitudinal traveling movements to the work-holder through suitable connections comprising the cam-follower 79 which is fixed to the lever 80 secured at one end to the bed 1 by means of the fulcrum-v screw 81 and at its opposite end connected by means of a link 82 tothe block 83 which is screwed tothe under side of the longitudinally traveling slide-plate38 supporting the work-holder. In the present instance, the longitudinal travelling movements imparted to the work-holder by the feed-wheel 76 have a range which is uniform for all buttonholeproducing cycles. f

The lateralfeed cam-element 78, in the present instance, is cut concentric with the pin 75 throughout the major portion of its extent but is formed with a reverse curve at 84 to impart side-Shift o1" lateralcomponents of motion to the `work-holder while thel los side-shift cam-groove 78 is a follower 85 carried by a projection 85 intermediate the ends of the angular lever 86 which is secured to the bed 1 by means of the vfulcrum-pin 87, Figs. 2, 6 and 7, and at its opposite end is apertured to receive the endwise shiftable coupling bolt 88, Fig. 3, mounted in` the apertured boss 88 formed at the rear end of the lever 89 also fulcrumed on the pin` 87. The forwardly extending end ofthe lever 89 carries a pin 90 on which is mounted a rectangular block 91 fitted to slide within the groove 92, Figs. 3, 6 and 7, of a block 98V screwed to the under side of the cross slideplate 35. As the groove 92 is parallel with'the slideways for the longitudinally travelling slide-plate 38 it is obvious that the longitudinal movements of the work-holder have no effect upon the` lateral movements thereof.

The side-wall portion of the apertured boss 88 is formed with a slot 94 of inverted L-shape through which projects a lateral pin or finger-piece 95 carried by the coupling bolt 88. `A leaf-spring 96, secured at one cnd to the lever 89 at 97,'bears downwardly upon the shank of the finger-piece 95 to lower the coupling bolt 88 and uncouple the levers 89 and 86 when said shank is in register with the vertical portion of the slot 94. The finger-piece 95 may be lifted manually to shift the bolt 88 to coupling position, as shown in Fig. 3, and may be turned into the .horizontal portion of the slot 94 to retain the bolt in elevatedI position. The free end portion of the spring 96 is arched at 98, Fig.

2. to fit over the shank of the fingerpiece 95 and prevent accidental displacement of the latter from the vertical portion of the slot 94. The spring 96 is further formed with an upwardly inclined tip 99 which serves to yieldingly retain the finger-piece in the position shown in Fig. 2. Thus.l when the levers 86 and 89 arecoupled together, the feeding movement is determined entirely by the longitudinal-feed cam element 77 and lateral-feed cam-element 78 in the main feed-wheel. which cams are formed, in the embodiment of the invention illustrated, to

properly shift the work-holder in the pro# duction of an unbarred eyelet-end buttonliole.

ln machines of the present type, wherein the work-holder isgiven a fixed longitudinal range of movement during each cycle of op-` erations, the production of a buttonhole of given length is accomplished by rovidmg vmeans for starting the stitch-forming mech.-

anism after the work-holder has passed over u given predetermined portion of its longitudinal range of movement. During the return movement of the work-holder the stitchfornling mechanism is stopped at the point of completion of the buttonhole stltching and the work-holder is thereafter moved back to initial position.

In the present embodiment'of the invention, stitching-feed actuating means driven by the main-shaft of the stitch-forming mechanism are provided for imparting an intermittent or step-by-step turning movement to the feed-wheel 76 to move the work-v holder during the action of the stitch-forming mechanism. The upright shaft 8, Figs. 1 and 6, carries at its lower end the driving disk 100 sustaining two diametrically opposed eccentrio stud-pins 101 which are adapted to Venter the peripheral slots 102 intermediate the teeth 103 of the driven disk 104 fixed to the short vertical shaft 105 journaled in the bearing bracket 106 sustained by the bed 1. The periphery of the driven disk 104 embraces the axis of rotation of the stud-pins 101 and the outer eX- tremities of the peripheral teeth 103 are therefore slightly rounded concentrically for cooperation with the pins 101 to produce a dwell in the initial engagement of each of the driving pins therewith.

The shaft'105, F ig. 7, has secured thereto the spur-gear 107 which meshes with a companion gear 108 secured to a shaft 109 which also carries a pinion 110 meshing with an idler gear 111 journaled on ra pin 112 carried at the outer end ofoan arm 113 whose inner apertured end embraces the bearing pin 7 5 for the feed-wheel 76. The idler gear 111 meshes with the peripheral gear-teeth 114 of the ring 115, Fig. 10, which is mounted upon the feed-wheel 76 concentrically with the axis of rotation of the 100 latter and is formed with an inwardly projecting annular bearing rib 116 engaged by suitable retainers, one of which is shown at 117. The annular bearing rib 116 is provided with inwardly directed ratchet-teeth 105 118 'which are engaged by a plurality of spring-pressed pawls 119 secured to the under side of the 'feed-wheel and spaced apart circumferentially a distance defined by a given whole number of teeth 118 plus -110 a fraction vof a. tooth equal to the reciprocal of the number of pawls used, in accordance with the practice well known in connection with ratchet-feed mechanism. When the stitch-forming mechanism is in operation the 115 ring 115 drives the'feed-wheel through the one-way acting ratchet-and-pawl connection above described.

Rapid-feed actuating means, independent of the stitching-feedactuating means` are 12,0 preferably provided for moving the. workholder up to and away from stitching position while the stitch-forming mechanism is inactive. To this end the feed-wheel is formed with a downwardly extending cylin- 125 drical portion having at its lower end, the bevel-gear teeth 120 which mesh with the teeth of the bevel-gear 121 fixed to the rapidfecd shaft 122 journaled within and cross# wise of the bed 1.

The feed-wheel driving action of the rapid-feed shaft 122 is controlled by means of an automatically, operated clutch c comprising a driven disk 123 fixed to said shaft 122 and formed With peripheral notches 124, Fig. 11, having slightly eccentric bottom Walls 125. The driven disk 123 1s .received within the recessed face of a driving disk 126 having a flange 127 which, together with the walls of the notches 124, form pockets for the reception of the clutch-rolls 128. Springs 129 within said pockets normally force the clutchrolls in a direction to wedge them between the concentric inner surface of the flange 127 and the eccentric bottom walls of the respective notches 124 thereby establishing driving relation between the disks 126 and 123. Fulcrumed to the the rapid-feed shaft 122. The driving disk 126 is screwed to the flanged hub of the worm-wheel 135 journaled to turn upon and relatively to the rapid-feed shaft and meshing with the worm 137 fixed to the continuously running shaft 138 journaled within and lengthwise of the bed 1. The rearwardly projecting end of the shaft 138 carries a gear 138EL meshing with an idler gear 138b which, in` turn, meshes with the toothed hub 138c of the continuously running driving pulley or belt-Wheel 138d mounted to turn on the rearwardly projecting end of the main-shaft 5.

An automatic mechanism is provided for throwing the clutch c into and out of action to cause the rapid-feed shaft to drive or cease to drive the main-feed wheel 76. The cone 134, Fig. 11, is formed with a hub 140 having a groove 141 embraced by the forked extremity 142, Fig, 12, of a clutch actuating arm 143 formed with an apertured boss 144 fixed to lthe endwise shiftable rod, 145 which is journaled within and crosswise of the bed 1, Fig. 6. Fixed to the rod 145 is a rectangular block 146 to one side-face of which one extremity of the coupler-arm 147 is pivoted by means of a screw 148. The opposite extremity of the arm 147 is formed with' a notch defining an abrupt shoulder 149 and an inclined shoulder 150. A spring 151 urges the coupler-arm 147 downwardly but said armis normallyretained in elevated r'pcisition by means of the bellcrank latch-lever 152, Fig. 13, pivoted tothe under side of the block 146. A spring 153 urges the end 154 of the latch-lever 152 outwardly to a position under the downwardlyextending projection 155 formed yon the coupler-arm 147. A stop-screw 156 limits the outward movement of thelatch-lever 152 under the influence of said spring.

`7hen the latch-lever 152 is tripped, in a manner to be described, the notched end of the couplerarm 147 drops into engagement with the constantll vibrating pin 157 carried by the upwar ly extendln arm 158 of a bellcranklever ivoted o n t e screw-pin 159 sustained by t e lug 160, Fig. 8, carried by the bed 1. The horizontal arm 161 of the bellcrankdever is formed at 162 to embrace the actuating crank 163 formed on the continuously running shaft 138. The action of the pin 157 is first to push against the abrupt shoulder 149 to shift the cone 134 away from the driven disk 123, thereby throwing in the clutch c. Immediately therei after, in its return movement, the pin 157 pushes against the inclined shoulder 150 and lifts the coupler-arm 147 high enough to allow the end 154 of the retaining latch 152 to snap under said arm and retain it in inoperative position.

The mechanism for automatically throwing out the clutch a is as.follows:-

Pivoted upon the constantly vibrating pin 157, Fig; 12, is one extremity of the vreciprocating bar 164 which is provided near its opposite extremity with a .notchn defining abrupt and inclined shoulders 165 and 166, respectively. A coiled spring 167, Fig. 8, tends to lift the bar 164 to establish operative connections between said shoulders 165, 166 and the lateral pin 168 fixed to the boss 144 of the clutch-actuating arm 143. A bellcrank latch-lever 169 fulcrumed to the bed 1 by means of the screw 170, Fig. 9, is formed with a hooked upper extremity adapted to snap over the bar 164 and hold the latter in depressed or ineffective position. When the latch lever 169 is tripped, in a manner to be described, to release the bar 164, the abrupt shoulder 165v first acts to shift the pin 168 vto the left,` Fig. 12, to force the cone 134 toward the driven disk 123- to throw out the clutch c. Immediately thereafter, inthe return movement of the bar 164, the inclined shoulder 166 rides against `the pin 168 to depress the bar 164 sufficiently to permit the hooked upper end of the latch-lever 169 to snap over the bar 164 and retain it ininefl'ective position, as lshown in Fig. 8. The horizontal arm of the latch-lever 169, Fig. 9, carries aV pin 171 embraced by the upwardly springpressed, forked extremity of a tripping lever 172, the opposite downturned extremity ofwhich carries a beveled point 173 adapted to be lifted at certain times during a buttonhole producin cycle to stop the rapid'feed mechanism. T e end' wise shiftable clutch actuating rod l145 is operatively retained in its extreme positions by means of a spring-pressed detent pin 174 Y formed with a pointed nose 175 adapted to enter either of the two conical depressions 176 provided inthe flattened side of the outwardly projecting end-portion of said rod 145.

The stitch-forming mechanism ofthe present machine is given a semi-rotation iin stitching the eye of a buttonhole and is thereafter turned in the opposite direction to restore the stitch-forming mechanism to initial position in accordance with the well known practice. In the present instance, the mechanism for so rotating the stitchforming mechanism comprises the angular follower-lever 180, Fig. 7, fixed to the lower end of the upright shaft 181 and carrying the follower 182 which fits into the camgroove 183 cut in the'under face of lthe feedwheel 76. The free end of the follower-lever 180 is connected by means of a lengthwise adjustable link 184 to one arm of the bellcrank-lever 185 whose other arm is formed with a segmental gear 186 meshing with a pinion 187, Fig. 1, concentric with and fixed to the rotary turret 33 sustaining the looptaker mechanism s. Fixed to the upper end of the upright shaft 181, Fig. 1, is the crankarm 188 which is connected by means of a lengthwise adjustable link 189 to one arm of the bellcrank-lever 190 whose other arm is formed with a segmental gear 191, Fig. 2, meshing with the pinion 192 concentric with and fixed to the rotary sleeve 16 of the well known needle-actuating mechanism previously referred to. The above described connections are such that the cam-groove 183 in the feed-wheel 76 serves to turn the needle and the loop-taker mechanisms simultaneously and to equal extents.

While the stitch-forming mechanism of the present machine may be provided with any desired type of stop-motion. I preferably provide stop-motion mechanism constructed substantially in accordance with the disclosure of my patent No. 863,129, of August 13, 1907, but differing therefrom in certain particulars. The present stop-motion comprises theusual coacting driving wheel 138d and clutch-wheel 193 of which the latter carries the usual spring-pressed clutch-ring 194 which is formed on one side with a peripheralnotch 195 affording'` on one side a wall or.stop-shoulder 196 and having a cam-rib 197 the outer eccentric surface-portion 198 of which leads to the `other side wall. of the notch 195. The

clutch-ring 194 is pivoted to the clutchwheel 193in the usual manner by means of the cylindrical projection 199 which is flattened at 200 to afford a thrust-shoulder 201 adapted to press outwardly against the vusual clutch-plate 202 to force it into frictional contact with the flanged belt-wheel 1381.

Fixed 'upon the rock-shaft 203 journaled in the bearing bracket 204 of the base 1 is the stop-motion lever 205 having tted to its lower end-portion the usual springpressed slide-block 206 formed with the lateral tooth 207. The tooth 207 has a frontside face 207 adapted to bear upon the adjacent face of the clutch-ring in the initial movement of the stop-lever 205 toward stopping position, and a bottom face 207, Fig. 1, Iadapted to bear upon the eccentric sidesurface 198 of the cam-rib 197 when the stop-lever assumes stopping position under the influence of the spring 208 interposed between the projection 209 of said stoplever and the standard 2.

The rock-shaft 203 has a depending crank-arm 210 which carries at its lower end a laterally extending headed screw-pin 210 embraced by the vertically slotted rearward end of the Ilink 211 whose forward end is connected to the upper extremity of the fol llower lever 212 fulcrumed to the bed 1 at 213 and Acarrying the cam-follower 214 having an inclined shoulder 215 terminating in a follower-tip 216. Secured to the inner side of the crank-arm 210 is a detainer spring 2101, Fig. 4, the bent lower end of which `terminates beneath the rearward end of the link 211 and holds the latter in engagement with vthe pin 2102. Manual pressure upon the slide-pin 210", which is carried by the crank-arm 210, will deflect the lower end of the spring 210b inwardly and permit the rearward end of the link 211 to drop away from the pin 210a and permit displacement of the follower-tip 216 to the left, Fig. 2, without necessarily rocking the stop-motion lever. lith the parts operatively connected, when the lever 212 is shifted to the/left, Fig. 2, the stop-lever 205 will be rocked to Withdraw the tooth 207 from the notch 195 thereby permitting the clutchring 194 to rock about its pivot 199 under the influence of its spring 194 to establish driving connection between the continuously running belt-wheel 138d and the main-shaft ofthe stitch-forming mechanism. Nhen the lateral pressure upon the lever 212 is removed the stop-lever spring 208 will force the stop-lever L205 and parts connected therewith to stopping position, shown in Fig. 2. It will be readily understood by those familiar with this well known type of stop-motion that when the tooth 207 is withdrawn from the notch 195, the springpressed slide-block 206 will drop. Further,

when the stop-lever is shifted to stopping position, the slide-block 206 will be lifted by the eccentric surface 198 before the tooth drops into the notch 195 to arrest the motion 0f the main-shaft 5. These rising described.

The automatic control of the stitchforming and feeding mechanisms is effected y by means of elements `-`or tripping points preferably carried by an auxiliary or additional lateral-feedA controlling cam-wheel 217 which is detachably mounted upon the outboard projections 21 of theA `rapid-feed shaft 122 which as will be remembered, is permanently geared with the feed-wheel 76. Referring to Fig. 3, it will be seen that the rapidi-feed shaft 122 carries a collar 219 and that' the-feed-wheel 217 is formed with an apertured hub 220 which is removably fitted upon said projection 218 and is held against the collar 219 by means of the vknurled thumb-nut 221.- The collar -219 carries 'a `steady pin 222 which enters the aperture v223 in the feed-wheel 217 to fix said wheel in predetermined angular position relatively to the rapid-feed shaft while permitting replacement ofA one feed-wheelV by another having diiferent characteristics. that the follower-tip 216 will not interfere with the removal of the wheel 217, the link 211 is first detached from the crank-arm 210 by manual pressure upon the slide-pin 21()c and the follower-tip 216 is then shifted rearwardly to a position beyond the periphery l of the wheel 217. The wheel 217 may have secured to its outer face the stop-motion controlling cam-ring 224, Fig. 2, having an extended concentric surface 225 which begins at'the inclined starting shoulder 226 and ends with the abrupt declivity 227` The inclined starting shoulder 226 coacts with the inclined shoulder 215 of the camfollower 214 toshift the stop-lever 205 to starting position where it is held by the concentric portion of the cam-ring 224 until the declivity 227 passes, under the followertip 216 4and permits the stop-lever 265 to spring back to stopping position. y

Secured preferably to the recessed inner face of the wheel 217 are a pairof tripping plates 228, 228', formed, respectively, with tripping points 229, 229 which are adapted to coact with the beveled point 173 to rock the lever 172-and thereby trip the latch 169 to stop the rapid-feed, as will be understood from the'foregoing description. v

The feed-wheel 217, in the present instance, serves as a feed-changing element or, in other words, as an auxiliary` `feed-con'- trolling or feed-actuating member. To this end the wheel 217, Fig. 3, is formed with a lateral-feed cam-groove 230 so disposed as to receive the lower end of the coupling boltvSS which in its lower position becomes a camfollower determining the lateral component of motion of the work-holder independently f work-holder.

In order of the groove 78 in the main Jfeed-Wheel. In v ksome cases, a filler-block 231 having inclined wheel 76 by ejecting the coupling bolt 88 from the groove 230 and at the same time projecting the upper end of said bolt into the apertured free end of the lever 86. Similarly, when the filler-block 231 passes from under the bolt 88 the latter will drop back into the groove 230 whereupon the auxiliary feed-wheel will be caused automatically to reassume control of the lateral motion of the 1When these automatic shifting movements of the coupling bolt are timed to occur, the apertured free end of the lever 86 and the cam-groovef230 are both in register with the opposite ends of said bolt.

The buttonhoie cutting mechanism of the present machine is or may be constructed substantially in accordance with that of my United States Patent No. 1,135,933, of April 13, 1915. The cutter-shaft 235 carries the usual cams 236 and 237 for effecting the closing of the cutting elements upon the work and the cam-disk 238 4formed in one face with the cam-groove 239 for effecting the travelling movements of the cutter between retracted and cutting positions. It also vhas fixed upon` its front end the disk 240 carrying a radially spring-pressed slide-block 241 means of the usual spring-pressed lever 244 fulcrumed upon the bed l at 245 and Jformed at its free end with the cam-plate 246 c0- operating with said slide-block 241 in effecting the connection and disconnection of the cutter-shaft with the belt-wheel 243 for a single rotation only, lin a manner well known.

The cams 236 and 237 are adapted for engagement with the lower and upper cutterlevers 247 and 248 which are mounted upon the fulcrum-pin 249 sustained by the slideplate 250; said levers being maintained in engagement with their respective camsby means of the spring 251, Fig. 5. The upper cutter-lever has detachably secured in its forward end one cutter-block or anvil 252 of an interchangeable series of such blocks of different lengths, and rthe forward end of the lower cutter-lever carries a block 253 formed with an upwardly extending xed jaw 254 and carrying a laterally shiftable jaw 255. Dovetailed between` said aws is the plate-like shank 256 of either the eyed cutterknife 257 or the straight bladed cutter-knife 258. The shiftable jaw 255 is in the form of a plate which is apertured at 259 to receive the eccentric hub 260 of the lever 261 mounted on thefulcrum-screw 262 threaded into 130 the block 253. Manipulation ot the lever 261 serves to shit't the jaw 255 to grip or release the shank 256 of the particular cutter-knife in use. To fix the longitudinal position of the cutter-knives between the jaws 254 and 255 the Shanks 256 of said knives'are formed with notches 263 adapted to be entered by the projection 264 formed, in the present instance, on the plate 265 which is secured to the shiftable jaw.

The belt-wheel 243 is formed in its inner face with the cam-groove 266 having at one point of its periphery the ejecting block 266' formed with oppositely inclined ends. This cam-grooveJ is adapted to be entered by the springpressed and normally retracted plunger-pin 267 mounted within a socket in 'the boss 268 upon one of the arms 269 of a plural-armed rock-lever which is formed with a clamp-closing arm 270 and a depending 'clamp-spreading arm 271, and is fulcrumed at the junction of its arms upon the stud-screw 272 tapped into the standard 2. At the beginning of a buttonhole producing cycle, the plunger-pin 267 is released and permitted to enter the cam-groove 266 and in the continued rotation of the belt-wheel 243 the plural-armed lever receives a single complete rocking movement after which the plunger-pin is ejected by means of the block 266. The plural-armed lever is normally held with its clamp-'closing arm 27 0 pressed upwardly against the adjustable stop-screw 273, by means of the spring 274. The inner end of the plunger-pin 267, Figs. 1 and 13, is formed with a notch 275 to receive the end of the latch-arm 276 which is fulcrumed on the stud-screw 277 and is yieldingly held in engagement with said notch by means of the spring 278 to detain said plunger-pin in retracted or ineffective position. V'The leverarm 27 0 carries at its forward end the rollerstud 279 which on its downward movement is adapted to depress the arm 53 to close the work-clamp. j

The depending lever-arm 271 has pivoted thereto the' downwardly spring-pressed clamp-spreading push-rod 280, the forward extremity 281 of which rests upon the toggle-actuating lever 61 at the beginning of a buttonho-le-producing cycle. When the plural-armed rock-lever is given its counterclockwise or clamp-closing impluse, the end 281 of the push-rod 280 is drawn rearwardly from its position above the lever 61 and drops down behind said lever so that, when the plural-armed lever is given its clockwise or clamp-spreading impulse, the end of said rod 280 will push against and actuate said lever 61 to straighten the toggle and spread the work. D

The clampspreadlng movement of the plural-armed lever is utilized to tr1p the latch 152, previously described, to connect the rapid-feed shaft 122 with the source of power. Fulcrumed upon the xed screw 282 tapped into the bracket 106, Fig. 9, is a bellcrank-lever having a depending arm 283 so disposed as to strike the angular eXtension 284 'of the latch-lever 152 to trip the coupler-arm 147 into action. The other arm 285 of the bellcrank-.lever has fulcrumed to its end-face a spring-pressed latch-arm 286 formed with an inclined end-face 287 with which a lateral pin 288 mounted 0n the lower end of the lever-arm 271-coacts, in moving from dottedto full-line position, Fig. 9, to rock said bellcrank- lever 283, 285. During the initial or clamp-closing movement of the plural-armed lever, the pin 288 merely rocks the latch-arm 286 about its pivot without imparting motion to theV arm 285, as will be readily understood.

A manually operated starting rod 289 is provided to withdraw the latch 276 and release the plunger-pin 267.v The rod 289 is bent over at its upper end to enter the apertured forward extremity ofthe arm 290 of a bellcrank lever pivoted on the stud-screw 277 and having a depending arm 291 upon which is pivotally mounted the downwardly spring-pressed latch-arm 292 formed with a tail-piece 293 adapted to engage the pin 294 mounted on the arm 291 to limit the clownward movement of the arm 292. The under side of vthe arm 292 is cut away to provide an abrupt shoulder 295 adapted to en gage the lateral pin 296 carried by the latch 276,` and in advance of said shoulder 295 is curved concentrically with the pivot-pin 277 to avoid contact withv the plunger-pin 267 during the manual retraction of theV latch 27 6. During the clamp-closing move-4 ment of the plural-armed rock-lever the plunger-pin 267, in rising, lifts the latch-arm 292 to release the latch 267 which is then free to snap into the notch 275 in the plunger-pin 267 when the latter is ejected from A the cam-groove 265. After the plunger-pin 267 has once been manually released it cannot, therefore, be reengaged by the latch 276 until the plural-armed lever has executed its clamp-closing and spreading movements, the latter of which releases the latch 276 from the latch-arm 292, as above described.-

Fulcrumed to a bracket 297, secured to the bed 1, is a spring-pressed latch 298 having a forwardly curved lower extremity 299, which when the starting rod is depressed, is shifted outwardly by the inclined shoulder 300, Fig. 3. of a block 301 secured to said starting-rod and snaps over said block to hold the rod 289 in runningl or depressed position thereby preventing a second or accidental actuation of the plural-armed level` during a buttonhole-producingl cycle. A spring 302. surroundingthe start1ng-rod and interposed between the block 301 and the bed 1 serves to urge said rod to elevated or initial position. Pivoted to the bed 1 at 130 a bell-crank-lever the upstanding arm of which may be swung rearwardly by the operator to a vertical position beneath the block 301 to prevent the accidental starting of the machine by an inadvertent pressure uponthetreadle during a period when the machine is not intended to be used.

The lifting of the stop-motion block 206 by the eccentric surface 198 of the cam-rib .197 is utilized to automatically connect the rapid-feed shaft with the -source of power and return the work fromstitching position to starting position Aupon the stopping of the stitch-forming mechanism. To `this end, the block 206, Fig. 1, is connected by the link 303 to the lateral arm 304 of a bellcrank-lever fulcrumed at 305v to a block 306 mounted within the bed 1. The depending arm 307 of lsaid bellcrank-lever is connected by the link 308 to the lower end of the lever 309 fulcrumed at 310.to the frame lug 160, Figs. 8 and 13. The upper end of the lever 309 carries a pivoted and springpressed dog 311 which, when the block 206 is lifted, strikes the dependingjear 312 of the latch 152 to trip the coupler-arm 147 into action.

` In the present instance, the cutting mechanism is designedt'o cut the buttonhole after it has been stitched and is tripped into action by means of the beveled tripping point- 315, Fig. 3, mounted on the gear 121 fixed to the rap1d-feed shaft 122. rThe tripping point 315 strikes and defiects outwardly the inwardly extending and beveled lower end 316 of the spring-pressed lever 317 which is fulcrumed between its ends on the pin 313 c arried by the bracket 297. The upwardly extending armof the lever 317 has pivoted thereto at 319 the extension-piece 320 formed withia nose 321 and a manually operable finger-piece 322. is further formed with an ear 323 between whichl and the lever 317 is: interposed a spring 324 to normally maintain the nose 321 in position to strike the extension 325 of Y the cam-plate 246 and push the latter inwardly to release the block 241, thereby starting the cutting mechanism. During the movement of the lever 317, under the influence of the tripping point 315, it strikes the inward extension 293 of the starting-rod latch 298 and shifts the latter-.outwardly to -release the starting-rod which then springs upwardly to initial position.

' The single rotation of the cutter-shaft 235 is utilized in the present instance to unspread and open the workclamp. Mounted on the cutter-shaft is a cam 326, Fig. 2,v

which during the latter portion of the revolution of said shaft.235 lifts the follower" 327 carried by the rearwardly extending arm 323 of a bellcrank-lever fulcrumed to the standard 2 at 329. The upwardly extending The extension-piece 320.

arm 330 of said bellcrank-lever is pivotally connected at 331 to the ear 332 of a block 333 fixed to the rear end of a push-rod 334 whose forward end is loosely fitted within an aper- 4ture 335 formed in the arm 336 depending from the link 189. When the follower 327 is lifted, the push-rod 334 strikes thethen substantially vertically disposed arm 54 carrie-d by one of the clamp-closing rock-shafts 45, to release the workclamp. At the same time the lower end of the tappet-arm 337 depending from the block 333 strikes the tail-piece of the link 60 to break the clamp-spreading togglemechanism.

If, for any reason, the operator wishes to prevent the normally automatic action of the inclined shoulder 338 which, Vwhen said camplate is pressed inwardly to start thecutting mechanism, coacts with Ithe Asimilarly inclined shoulder 339 formed on the tail-piecek 340 of the push-rod 280 to elevate the free end 281 thereof above the path of rearward movement of the lever 61.

The needle-thread controlling devices provided for the present machine are as follows :-The vertical take-up shaft 13 is journaled within the housing 341 screwed to the top of the bracket-arm 3 and has fixed thereto the spaced parallel take-up cam-plates 342 and the thread-nipper actuating cam 343 which is engaged by the follower 344 at the forward extremity of the lever 345 pivoted at 346 to a lug 346 on the housing'341 and, at its rearward end, carrying an adjustable push-screw 347 the extremity of which bears against the outwardly spring-pressed nipper-pin 343 to force the latter into nipping relation with the stationary abutment-piece 349 socketed within the apertured ear 350 formed onthehhousing 341. y

Pivoted upon the vertical pin 351, Fig; 1, is a manually `shiftable bar 352 formed with inwardly extending spaced arms 353, Fig. 24, the extremities of which are provided with threadguiding apertures 354 which, when the lever 352 is in operative position, lie one above and one below the take-up plates 342. Secured to the lever 352 is a stripper-plate "355 formed with a thread-` slot 356 whose innermost extremity registers with the thread-guiding apertures pin 361.

354. The stripper-plate is disposed at a level intermediate the take-up cam-plates 342. The spring 357, which coacts with the end ot' the lever 352 to yieldingly retain the latter in operative position, permits said lever to` be readily-shifted to dotted line or threading position, Fig. 23. The take-up cam-plates are shaped to closely control the needlethread while meeting the thread requirements of the loop-taker mechanisms.

Mounted upon aV vertical lug 358 formed externally of the housing 341 is a tension device of well known form, comprising the separable tension-disks 359 normally pressed together by means of the springr 36() which is rendered ineffective by means of the axial Disposed at the end of the pin 361 the cam-faced head,362 at the extremity of an arm 363 of a bellcrank-lever whose rearwardly projecting arm 364 is pivoted to a vertical bar whose lower end is formed with a slotted ear 366 entered by a guidescrew 367 threaded into the standard 2. Pivoted tothe side of the bar 365 at 368 is a plural-armed latch whose upper arm 369 is pressed to the right, Fig. 1, by means 'of the spring 370 to normally force the lateral arm 371 of said latch in contact with the stop-screw 372. Pivoted to the stop-motion lever 205 is a. lever 373 whose rear end is connected by the link 374 to the vertically movable stop-block 206 and whose front end carries a. lateral pin 375 adapted to engage under and litt the squared lower end of the lower arm 37 6 of said plural-armed latch to shift the cam-shaped head 362 intd position to release the tension, as shown in Fig. 13.

With the parts in the position shown in Fig. l, when the upper end of't-he stop-moftion lever 205 is rocked to the left to start the stitch-forming mechanism, the pin 375 moves from under the arm 37 6 thus permit- .ting the bar 365 to drop under the influence of the spring 377 and restore the tensiondevice to operativel condition. When the stop-motion lever 205 is shifted to stop the stitch-forming mechanism the pin 375 first strikes the side of the arm 376 and rocks it toward the right, Fig. 1.

. pin 375 is lowered to permit the squared lower end of the arm 376 tosnap back to a position over the pin 375-. Subsequently, when the tooth 207 of the block 207 drops into the notch in'the ring 194, the pin 375 will be elevated to relievethe tension, as will When 'the block- -206 is lifted by the eccentricI surface 198 the lneedle to keep it from catching on the needlepoint. I

In the operation of the machine to produce, for example, a taper-barred eyeletfend buttonhole, such as shown at', Fig. `25, the operator first insures -that an eyed cutter-knife 257 .is carried by the lower cutterlever 247, and thata cutter-block or anvil 252 of the 'required length is, inserted in the upper cutter-lever 248. An appropriate interchangeable wheel 217 of the series furnished with the machine having the shoulders 226, 227 and tripping points 229,229 properly spaced or timed to produce a stitched butto-nhole of the required length, and having a lateral-feed controlling camgroove 230 of the proper contour for taperbarring, is then placed upon the rapid-feed shaft. The coupling bolt 88 is set, preparatory to ay buttonhole-producing cycle, in its forward position in the vertical position of the slot 94, whereupon it drops into engagement with the cam-groove 230 in the "auxiliary feed-wheel 217.

The work is then inserted beneath the clamping feet 47 and the starting rod 289 is drawn downwardly to starting position wherein it is held throughout the ensuing cycle of operations by the latch-arm 298. Tn this movement the bellcrank-lever 290-291 is rocked to cause the shoulder 295 of the latch-arm 292 to shift the lateral pin 296 to the right, Fig. 1, thereby withdrawing the latch 276 lin opposition to its spring 278 to release the plunger-pin 267. In case the plunger-pin should enter the cam-groove 266 in front of the ejecting block 266 it Awill merelybe forced outwardly and permitted to return into the cam-groove while the latch 276 remains in retracted position.

In the rocking of the plural-armed lever by engagement of the plunger-pin with its actuating cam-groove, the plunger-pin is car-` ried laterally with the lever-arm'269 and lifts the latch-arm 292 thereby releasing the latch 27 6 which returns to operative engagement with the side of the plunger-pin under the action of its spring 278; the latch snapping into the notch 275 in said plungerpin when the latter is next ejected from the cam-groove 266. Upon the tripping of the starting rod latch 298 at the completion ot the' cycle,-thebellcrank-lever 290. 291 springs back to initial position while the shoulder 295 of the tripping arm 292 snaps forwardly oyer the pin 296 without affecting the latch 2 6.

The initial of counter-clockwise. movement of the plural-armed lever acts to closey the clamp; to draw back the p-ush-bar 280 so it can snap down behind the clamp-spreading toggle-actuating lever 61; to move the pin 2.88 tothe other side of the arm 286; and to lift the arm 292 to release the latch 27 6. During the reverse or clockwise movement of the4 plural-armed lever, the push-bar 280 spreads the clamp while the pin 288 strikes and depresses the inclined end 287 of the arm 286,.thereby tripping the latch 152 to throw in the clutch c and connect the rapidfeed shaft 122 to the continuously rotating driving shaft 138.

Under. the influence of Ithe shaft 138,.

which is `now driving the-rapid-feed shaft and, through it, the main and auxiliary feed-wheel 76 .and 2'17, respectively, the work-holder is rapidly shifted longitudinally from initial position toward the point where thestitching is to be `started. AAs the rapid-feed progresses the inclined starting shoulder 226 approaches the 4similarly inclined shoulder 215 of ,the follower 214` and, at stitching position, shifts said follower 214 to rock the stop-motion lever 205 and start the stitch-forming mechanism At substantially' the same time the tripping.

through it, the rapid-feed shaft 122 andauxiliary feed-wheel 217, imparting ank intermittent or step-by-step movement to the work-holder as the stitches are formed by the coacting needle and loop-taker mechanisms. The starting shoulder 226 and tripping point 229 are timed to act substantially simultaneously so that the stitching feed will begin moving the work-holder at substantially the same time the rapid-feed V is thrown out;

1When the stop-motion lever is shifted to running position,v the tooth 207 of blockv 206 is withdrawn from the clutch-ring 194 which is shifted by the spring- 194 to effect the clutching' action of the thrust-shoulder 201. At the saine time the lever 373 is shifted forwardly to slide the pin 375 from under thearm 376 to allow the tension re.- leasing link 365 to drop under the influence of the sping 377 and restorev the tensiondevice to effective condition. i

As the stitching progresses from the point c to the point b, Fio'. 25, the'side-shift move-l mentsA of the worh-holder are determined entirely bythe feed-controlling groove 230 in the auxiliary feed-wheel 217 and, in the present instance, the groove230 is so shaped as to .cause the initially formed stitches g to lie across the center line of the buttonhole. When the stitching reaches thepoint b the filler-block 231 e]ects the coupling bolt 88 from the auxiliary feed-controlling feed-wheel, while the stitching progresses barred or unbarred.

`toward initial orcutting position.`

groove 230 and effects the coupling of the levers 86y and 89 thereby shifting the control of the Side-shift movements of the Work-holder from the auxiliary to the main 'I0 around the eye d. While it is obvious that the auxiliary feed groove 230 may be so shaped as to control the side-shift movements of the work-holder throughout the entire stitching cycle to produce a Astitched pattern of any desired contour, I prefer to shlife the conltrol of 'said side-shiftmovemen'ts toh the main-feed wheel prior to stitching around the eye of an eyelet-end buttonhole for the reason that these stitches'should be located in the work with great precision and it is deemed preferable to provide a built-in feed-wheel to control the feed at this point for all eyelet-end buttonholes, whether lau When the stitching reaches the point c,

opposite the point b, filler-block 231 moves from under the coupling bolt 88 which thereupon drops back into the auxiliary feed-groove 230, whereupon the auxiliary feed-wheel 217 assumescontrol of the sideshift movements of the'work-holder as the stitching progresses along the unfinished side of the., buttonhole. Just before the point f, opposite the point a, is reached the work-holder is 'shifted laterally to cause. ad-

ditional barring stitches g to be superimposed upon the initial barring stitches.

Of course, the inclined ends of the fillerblock 231 need not necessarily be timed to 10D act upon the coupling bolt 88 at the precise points h and c, indicated in Fig. 25, but may obviously be timed to act at any point along either of the straight sides of the buttonhole between the end bar and the eye.

When the point f is reached the declivity 227 passes Linder the follower-tip 216 where# upon the stop-motion lever 205 springs back to the position shown 'in Fig. 1; the block 206 being raised by the eccentric surface 198 V110 before the tooth 207 drops into'the stopnotch inthe cam-ring 194. Thisilifting of the block 206,y depresses the pin 375 whereupon the lower end of the arm 376 snaps over said pin. When the tooth 207 drops into 115 said stop-notchthe arm 37 6 is lifted to re,- leasethe tension on the needle-thread. Also, when the block 206 is lifted, it vactsthrough the links 3037 308 and bellcrank-lever 304:, 307 to rock the lever 309 and trip the latch 152 thereby causing the clutch c to be automatically thrown in tore-connect the rapidfeed shaft lto the continuouslyrotating shaft 138 and shift the work-holder rapidly back When cutting position is reached the dead-pointy 380 in the heart-shaped camgroove 77 holds the clamp stationary while theV tripping point 315 carried by the gearwheel 121 acts upon the lever 317 and cam- 130 y

Images