US884940A - Tailor's pattern. - Google Patents

Description

No. 884,940. PATBNTBD APR. 14, 1908.

G. MAURO.

TAILORS PATTERN. 31.1011121011 FILED 001.9. 1905. BBNBWBD FEB. 1o, loos.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

i l 4 l ATTORNEYS UNITED sTArEsPATnNT oFFrcE.

GIACINTO MADEO, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

TAILoivs PATTERN.

' Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented April 14, 1908.

Application led October 9, 1905, Serial No. 282,001. Renewed February 10, 1908. Serial No. 415,165.

To all whom 'it may concern.'

Be it known that I, GIAorNro- MADEO, a citizen of the'United States, and a resident of the city of New York, borough of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented anew and Improved Tailors Pattern, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

This invention relates to patterns such as used by tailors for cutting out garments.

The object of the invention 1s to provide a pattern having a system of base lines corrected so as .to adapt them especially to the degree of erectness of the model., The construction of the pattern is based upon the relation of certain dimensions taken on the model.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved pattern for laying out the sleeve of a garment, which improves the manner in which the finished sleeve hangs, and to improve the pattern of the collar.

The invention consists in the pattern to be described more fully hereinafter and definitely set forth in the claims.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all theviews.

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a bust of a model, and indicating one of the basic dimensions which I take before laying out my pattern; Fig. 2 is a rear view of the bust of the model, and indicating the manner of taking a second basic dimension; Fig'. 3 is a diagram showing how I compare the two basic dimensions which I take, so as to obtain their relation for the purpose of laying out the pattern; Fig. 4 represents a com lete pattern of the upper portion of the bony of a coat, the said pattern being laid out according to this invention and Fig. 5 represents a pattern for a sleeve, laid out'according to my invention.

Referring more particularly to the parts, 1, 2, 3 and 4 represent a basic rectangle u on which the attern of `the back is to be laid out. The ong sides of this rectangle are substantially equal to the half-chest measure of the model, increased by suitable allowance for seams. In laying out this rectangle, the long sides of the same are preferably disposed horizontally, the short sides being disposed vertically, as will be readily understood.

Before laying out this rectangle, I lay out a square having its angles at the points 1, 7, 8, 9 thus, beginning at the point 7, I lay off a ,vertical line of indefinite length, passing downward, and a horizontal line 7-8, the length of which is substantially half the width of the back of the model. In order to determine the point 1, I lay off a distance 7--7b equal to A and from the point 7b as a center, I measure from the point 7 b a distance 7b-1 equal to T2, A. Having determined the point 1, I lay off the rectangle 1, 2, 3, 4 as described above, and indicated by the numeral 5.

I provide means for correcting the basic rectangle 5 so that it is especially adapted for laying out a pattern for a person who stoops abnormally or who is abnormally erect.v

Referring now especially to Fig. 1, I take the dimension indicated by the line A; this is done with a tape which is applied at the middle point of the rear of the neck or collar, passing the same down under the arm-pit at the front, and then to the same point across the back. I take a second dimension B, as indicated in Fig. 2. vMeasuring from the same starting point, I pass the tape under the arm-pit as before, but instead of carrying the other end to the starting point from the armpit, as'before, I pass Athe tape to the central point of the back in a horizontal direction from the arm-pit. As to the body of the garment, my system and pattern depend upon the relation of these two dimensions.

Referring now to Fig. 3, I lay off a straight line 10--11, which is equal in length to onehalf the measure A referred to above. Adjacent to this line I lay off another line between the points 12, 13, so as to compare the length of the two, and this line has a length equal to one-half the measure B, referred to above. To this line 22- its own length, which may extend the line 12-13 to the point 14. In a straight or normal person the line 12-14 should have the same length as the line 10-11. At the middle portion two lines 15 and 16, which are laid off like the lines just described, and in this case the line 16, which corresponds to the line 12-14, exceeds the upper line 15 in length by an amount which I will represent by the letter B I add one-sixth of of Fig. 8 I have represented C. Such an excess in the lower line will be found in persons who are unusually curved. Below the lines 15 and 16 similar lines 17 and 18 are represented as laid off, and in this instance the line 18 falls short of equalingthe line -17 by a certain amount, which I may represent by the same character C. This deficiency in the lower line is noticeable in persons who are unusually erect.

Referring now again to Fig. 4, I shall describe the manner of appl-ying the relations graphically illustrated in Fig. 3. From the point 1 I measure a distance to a point 19, making the distance 1-19 equal to substantially one-half of the chest measure of the model. From this point I measure down vertically to a point 2() a certain distance; this distance in a normal person should be one-sixth of the half-chest measure; that is, one-sixth of the distance 1-19. I then draw in a straight line, passing through the points 1 and 20 and extended to the point 21, so as to make the line 1h21 equal in length to the line 1-2. This line 1-21 is a basic line upon which to erect a rectangle equal to the rectangle 5, referred to above. This new rectangle has its corners at the points 1, 21, 22 and 23. In this way a line 21-22 is determined which corresponds to the forward edge of the garment and along which its edge line or cutting mark is laid oft'.

In case the model is not normal, but is unusually stooped, the measurement 19-20, in laying ofi the corrected rectangle, will be one-sixth of the half-chest, increased by the dimension C, ascertained as indicated in Fig. 3.

In case the model is unusually erect, the measurement 19-20- will be decreased in laying it off by the amount C, ascertained as described above. In this way I determine a second basic rectangle 24, the position of which, in laying out the pattern, depends upon the degree of erectness of the model.

It should be understood that the line 1-21 corresponds to the chest measure taken directly under the arm-pits.

In order to find the position of the scye curve 25, I lay off on the line 1-21, a distance equal to three-fourths of the half-chest measure, which I will suppose reaches to a point 26. From this point I measure on in the same direction along this line a distance equal to one-thirty-second of the halfchest, plus an inch allowance for seams, which reaches to the point 27. From the point 7 I lay off, on the line 7-8, a measurement reaching to the point 2S, making the distance 7-28 equal to substantially onefourth of the half-chest measure. At this point I measure perpendicularly to a point 29, making the distance 28`29 equal to one twenty-fourth of the half-chest measure. Then on a straight line joining the points 27 and 29, I lay off a distance reaching to the point 30. This distance 27h30, if the model is straight, is equal to one-sixth of the halfchest measure. If the model is stooped, l subtract the extra dimension C, ascertained as described above; but if the model is unusually straight, the distance C will be added. A measurement taken parallel with the line 1h21 from the point 30 on one side of the garment to the corresponding point at the opposite side will give the distance between the arm seams at the front. Through this point 30 the scye curve 25 is drawn in, according to the tailors art, making the lower portion of the curve substantially tangent to the line 1-21, as at the point 31.

With the scye curve determined as above and on the rectangle 24 as a base, I construct the breast pattern 32. The side edge 33 will be determined according to the measure of the model and according to principles well known in the tailors art. The lower edge of the breast pattern 32 will be determined by similar considerations or by the style of the coat. The pattern illustrated is that used in making a cutaway coat.

Having laid oil the shoulder line 34 according to the tailors art, I lay oil a collar 35. The lower edge of this collar is formed in a curved line 36, which is the same as the hcollarline of the breast. In other words, I cut the lower edge of the collar in the same curved line that I cut the collar edge of the breast. From this arrangement when the collar is being sewed. to the body of the garment, its lower edge makes a neat seam therewith. The folding line 37 of the collar extends from a suitable point such as the point 21 upwardly in an inclined direction, lying substantially parallel to the rear or upper extremity 38 of the lower edge of the collar extended at the shoulder 34, as indicated. Then the collar is folded upon this line 37 the usual lapel is formed at cach side of the coat and a collar of very neat appearance is produced. IVhen garments are cut according to these patterns, the collars do not manifest a tendency to project too far upward on the neck, and lie snugly against the shirt collar. In this way I overcome the very common objection to garments cut according to the usual system. Evidently the distance between the lines 38 and 35 is the height of the finished collar.

According to the measurements of the model, I also lay off the dart 39 and the back 40, according to the tailors art. These parts of the pattern are little affected b f the degree of erectness of the model.

In Fig. 5 I illustrate a sleeve pattern laid out according to my invention. In constructing this pattern I lay oll' a horizontal line 41-42, the length of which is one-half the sleeve width, taken at the shoulder. From the ends of this line I draw vertical lines 41-43 and 42-44. These lines have point 45 being made equal to one-sixteenth,

of the half-chest measure. I measure outwardly in the same manner to thepoint 46, making the distance 42-46 equal to the distance 42-45. In the same way I find the points 58 and 41EL by measuringfrom the point 41. From the point 44 I measure inwardly to the point 47`, making the distance 44-47 equal to one-third of one-twentyfourth of the half-chest measure. I then draw in a straight line 48, joining the oints 45 and 47, and this line is a base line fIdr the rear edge of the upper arm of the outer side of the sleeve. From the point 43 I measure inwardly to the point 49, making the distance 43-49 equal to two-thirds of onetwenty-fourth of the half-chest measure. Through the point 49 I draw a straight line 50, passin to the point 41a, which forms the base line or laying off the forward edge of the outer sleeve at the upper arm. On this line 50 I lay off, according to the measure of the mode, a measure reaching to the point 51. This point 51 is the upper extremity of the forward edge of the outer side of the sleeve, and the point 45, as intimated above, is the corresponding point for the rear edge of the outer side of the sleeve. From'the point 42 I measure upwardly along the line 44-42, to a point 52 making the distance 42--52 equal to one-twelfth of the half-chest measure; and through the point 52 I draw a line 53, which is horizontal and parallel with the line. 41-42 This line reaches to the point 54, which lies substantially upon a central line drawn parallel with and between the basic side lines 41-43 and 42-44. This point 54 is the highest point on the shoulder line 55 of the outer side of the sleeve. The curve 55 is laid in according to the tailors art, passing through the points 45, 54, 51 and 58.

In order to lay off the u per arm of the inner side of the sleeve, I raw in a straight line 57, connecting the points 47 and 46. This line is a base line for the rear edge of the sleeve. I draw a line l56, which connects the points 49 and 58 and this line is a base line for the forward edge of the under side of the sleeve. Measuring down from the point 58, I lay off a distance to the base line 59a which is horizontal, making this distance equal to one-sixth of the half-chest measure.

By allowing a suitable amount for seams I' lay in the points 51 and 59.l

This point 59 is the upper extremity of the forward edge of the under side of the sleeve.

@According to the tailors art I draw in a curved line 60, which connects the points 59 and 4.6,v the same being the uplper edge of the under side of the sleeve. T e lower part of the sleeve patterns are the center line of the sleeve, giving the sleeve suitable length. From this oint I measure vertically to the pointl 62a a dfistance equal to of the half chest measure. From the point 62a I measure horizontally to the point 61, making the distance V62 a--61 equal to one-fourth of the half-chest measure plus onetwelfth of the half-chest. This point 61 is the forward point of the cuff. In this way I form two patterns, an outside pattern, the edges of which .pass substantially through the oints 51, 49, 61, 62, 47, 45 and 55, and an insi e pattern, the boundaries of which lie at the points 59, 49, ci, 62, 4.7, 46 and co. My improvement with respect to this sleeve attern relates especially to the manner of aying off the front and rear ed es of the upper arms of the two patterns. n this connection, attention is called to the fact that the front and rear edges of these two patterns arelaid 0H with res ect to the baseline 44-42 and 41-49 whic lie substantially midway between the two edges of the patterns. From this arrangement a width of material is given to the inner pattern which is equivalent to the material cut away from the base line in cutting out the outer pattern. In this way there is no scantiness or drawing of the material the sleeve han s more gracefully, tending to form a true cy inder as it hangs.

While I have described the sleeve proportions as ixed on the half-chest measure, in practice, the sleeve dimensions may be proortioned directly to the actual dimensions of the models arm, or according to the dimensions of the arm-hole. When an inclined basic rectangle has been produced, as described, the line 21"-22 thereof will be found to intersect the line 34 at some point, as 3a. I select a point 26a on the line 1-21 at which to locate the side seam; through this oint 26a I draw a base line 26", striking the lme 22-23 at 26; I then lay off the distance 26"--261 equal to 4-23. The line 26?#26dl then constitutes substantially a base line for the side edge of the breast of the garment; the line 26b constitutes a base line orBthe forward edge of the dart.

Y above the iinished garment is fitted accurately to the body of the model, especially if the model is abnormally stooped or erect. The garment will hangneatly at exhibit no tendency to pucker, and it will also present a neat fit and good appearance at the collar and sleeves.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent l A pattern for the body of a garment havthe use of the invention described' the front and laid off by locating v the lower edge of the cuff at the point 62 on at the sides of the sleeve, and

ing a collar pattern formed adjacent to the name to this specification in the presence of breast pattern of said body and separated two subscribing Witnesses. therefrom by the curvedvoollar line, said co1- lar pattern havinr a folding line drawn sub- A GIACINTO MADEO' 5 stantially aralle to an extension of the Witnesses:

curved co1 ar line. WM. H. STRYKER,

In testimony whereof I have signed my ANTONIO MADEo.

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