US795109A - Gem-setting. - Google Patents

Description

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UNITED STATES Patented July 1S, 1905.

PATENT OEErcE.

GEM-SETTING.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 795,109, dated July 18, 1905.

Application filed October 25, 1904-.. Serial No. 229,958.

To @ZZ whom, it may concern:

BeitknownthatLGEOEGEWILLIAMDOVER, a citizen of theUnited States,residing at Cranston, in the county of Providence and State of Rhode Island, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Gem-Settings, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

Like letters indicate like parts.

My invention relates to that class of gernsettings commercially known as "box-settings in which the setting comprises a tubular or polygonal body portion and an annular ange extending peripherally from the top thereof and adapted to bc bent over to fasten a gern in position. In this form of gem-settings there are no radial ribs each having at its outer end a seat or shoulder and a prong; but there is a continuous solid body and a continuous annular flange integral therewith.

Figure l is a diametrical section of my improved gem-setting before the annular flange is bent over to inclose the gem seated in said setting. Fig. 2 is adiametrical section of the same after the annular flange has been bent over to fasten the gem in position in the setting. Eig. 8 shows in diametrical section two of the gem-settings in juxtaposition and soldered together along their contiguous surfaces. Eig. 4 is a top plan view of the two gem-settings shown in Fig. 3 and united by solder along the line of their mutual contact. Eig. 5 is a diagram showing the manner of grouping three of said gem-settings in one cluster. Eigs. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 1l represent modified forms of my said gem-setting. Fig. 12 is a diametrical section of the gem-setting of this class now in common use and showing the annular flange before the same has been bent over upon the gem contained in said setting. Fig. 13 is a diametrical section of my improved gem-setting before the gem is seated therein.

My invention consists of the novel construction of such a gem-setting combining the several features of novelty hereinafter described and as specifically set forth in the claims.

The box-setting for gems heretofore made is illustrated in Eig. `12, in which A is a tubular body portion having an internal 'annular seat or shoulder c, which is beveled for the proper reception of the gem B, and an annular flange I), extending outwardly from said seat or shoulder c, with the exterior round surface thereof having the same diameter as the tubular body portion A and peripherally continuous with the cylindrical surface of said body portion. It has hitherto been possible to use these box-settings only for the display of single gems, and they have not been adapted for use in grouping or clustering jewels. The reason why these boxsettings cannot be used in clusters is that if two or more of them are placed in contact one with another and solder is applied to unite such contiguous surfaces the solder, as is well known, flows as far as the contiguous surfaces are in contact, which flow cannot readily be prevented, and as a consequence the solder not only adheres to and unites the contiguous contacting peripheral surfaces of the body portions A of said box-settings, (which is desired,) but also the contiguous contacting peripheral surfaces of the two annular flanges b, (which is not desired,) and therefore said flanges being soldered to each other cannot be bent over in opposite directions to engage and secure in position the two gems B in their respective settings. There is a peculiar massiveness and beauty in these solid settings, which is very desirable in certain kinds of jewelry ornamentation; but on account of the mechanical difficulty of construction just dcscribed the use of box-settings, which, if available, would conduce greatly to this desired massive appearance, is practically impossible. It is the purpose of my invention to overcome this difficulty and to so construct such boxsettings as to permit oftheir use in displaying jewels in groups, lines, or clusters, thus producing effects which are wholly novel and highly artistic in the jewelers7 art.

I show in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings a single box-setting for gems made in accordance with my invention. It consists of a tubular body portion O, having the internal annular seat or shoulder c (upon which the edge of the gem D rests) and the external annular IOO This annular flange c is bent over by a suitablev I tool until its edge comes into contact with the gem D, as seen at e in Fig. 2, and thus holds it in place.

The dotted lines a' rv .e z in Fig. 1 serve to show the distinction and difference between my improved box-setting for gems and the box-setting which has been used prior to my said invention. If the metal of the body portion` C of my improved gem-setting were turned down in a lathe until the cylindrical zo surface thereof was reduced to a diameter equal to the distance between said dotted lines m a z, the gem-setting would be the same as that shown in Fig. 12, for the cylindrical surface of the tubular body portion would then be continuousf'with the periphery of the annular flange and of the same diameter. My invention, therefore, broadly stated, consists in making the tubular body portion of a boxsetting of a diameter exceeding the diameter of the annular flange, thereby forming an intermediate shoulder (preferably beveled) between the peripheral base of the annular fl ange and the cylindrical surface of the tubular body portion. 'lhis excess of diameter gives a rich- 3 5 ness and massiveness of effect which is very desirable even in the use of single settings and which is greatly enhanced by grouping', (in the manner which I will presently describa) producing an appearance of embedding the 4o gems.

- Instead of bending the flange over upon the gem D in a U shape, as seen in Fig. 2, I may bend it in an obtuse angle, as seen in Fig. 6 at c. In this case it is desirable that the external shoulder be beveled at such a pitch of inclination that the outer surface of the annular flange (when bent down flat into contact along' its inner surface with the facets of the gern) shall extend in alinement therewith. In case the annular flange is bent in the' U shape shown in Fig. 2 there is a cup appearance given; but if said [lange is bent over flat, as in Fig. 6, an appearance is given which in some styles of ornamentation is more artistic, 5 5 especially as it gives the effect of an increased thickness of the upper portion of the gemsetting'. In order to .facilitate and enable said continuity of the alinement of the bentover flange with the beveled annular external shoulder, as above described, the length of the tubular body portion is made greater on the outside than on the inside thereof, as shown in Figs. l, 2, and 6 and most plainly in Fig. 13.

In using these box-settings in groups,lines,

or clusters they may be arranged in contact, as shown in Figs. 8, 4, or 5, or in `other designs, as preferred. They are soldered together along their adjacent contacting surfaces, as indicated at m in Figs. 3 and 4. The

solder will flow, as already explained, but

manner affected by the solder, and as the annular flanges c c are not in contact, but are distant from each other, being separated by the shoulders OZ 0l, they are left free and equally pliable at all places throughout their entire extent and being exceedingly thin can be smoothly bent over upon the gems D, vrespectively.

In Figs. 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11 are shown modified forms of said invention. In Fig. 7 the construction is the same as that shown in Fig. l except that the base of the setting is closed by the bottom E, Awhich is integral with the setting. In Fig. 8 the body portion instead of being tubular is a solid block with a conical depression or seat adapted to inclose the entire back of the gem. This form is useful in cases in which a foil-lined gem is used. In-

Fig. 9 the body portion has a circular bore a, but octagonally-disposed sides o,thus somewhat modifying the external shoulder, as seen at p. In this ligure the annular flange is indicated at q and the internal annular shoulder at r. large area for soldering the settings together in grouping. These plane faces may be three, four, or more in number, as may be desired. Fig. 10 illustrates how the shoulder d may be modified in shape and proportions. In such construction the point of contact for soldering is at w. Fig. ll shows that the body portion may be in the shape of a truncated cone. By this angular inclination of the sides of the settings they may be grouped, lined, or clustered on a eircularly-bent strip or ring or on a spherical surface.

It is obvious that instead of leaving the flange e continuous it may be radially slitted .at equidistant spaces or slotted radially in several V shapes or in other suitable forms, so as to form a series of points or prongs which are to be bent over separately upon the gem.

I claim as a novel and useful invention and desire to secure'by Letters Patentl. The improved gem-setting herein described, consisting of a tubular body portion having on one end a concentric annular flange of less thickness than that of the tubular portion, which has its outer periphery parallel with the cylindrical surface of said body portion and its inner periphery parallel with the bore of said body portion, a beveled annular Thus the 'shoulders l are not defaced or in any IOC This form is very useful as affording a y,

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external shoulder from the outer base of said flange to said cylindrical surface of the said body portion and a beveled annular internal shoulder from the inner base of said fiange to said bore.

2. The improved gem -setting herein described, consisting of a tubular body portion having at one end a concentric annular flange integral therewith, but of an external diameter less than that of' said body portion and of an internal diameter greater than that of the bore of said tubular body portion.

3. The combination of' a gem and a gemsetting which consists of a tubular body portion of uniform thickness, an annular flange of less thickness disposed eoncentrieally upon and extendingfrom one end of said body portion so as to form an external annular shoulder and an internal annular shoulder, which flange is bent into a U shape to lie in contact with said gemto secure said gem in said setting. y

4. The combination of a gem and a gemsetting which consists of a tubular body portion of uniform thickness, an annular f'lange of less thickness disposed concentrically upon and extending from one end of said body portion so as to form an external annularshoulder and an internal annular shoulder, which [fange is bent into contact with said gem to secure said gem in said setting.

5. The improved gem-setting herein described, consisting of a body portion having a circular bore, an annular flange upon one end of' said body portion and concentric with said bore and having an external diameter less than the diameter ofl said body portion, and an annular shoulder extending from the inner base of said fiange to said bore.

6. The improved gem -setting herein described eonsisting of a body portion having an axially-directed opening, a flange extending from one end of said body portion, an external shoulder from the outer base of said flange to the outer surface of said body portion and an internal shoulder from the inner base ofl said flange to said opening.

7. The combination of two gem -settings adapted to contact with each other, solder uniting said two settings on their contiguous surfaces, each of which gem-settings consists of a body portion having an annular flange extending f'rom one end thereof and an external shoulder surrounding said flange, whereby when the two settings are soldered together as aforesaid, the two annular flanges thereof are separated in space from each other a distance equal to the radial width of both said shoulders and of said solder.

8. rlhe combination of two gem -settings adapted to contact with each other, solder uniting said two settings on their contiguous surfaces, each of which gem-settings consists of a tubular body portion, a concentric annular flange extending from one end thereof', an external annular shoulder from the outer base of said flange to the outer surface of said body portion, and an internal annular shoulder from the inner base of said flange to the inner surface of said body portion. e

9. The improved gem-setting herein described, consisting of a metallic tube having an internal seat adapted to receive a gem, an integral tubular flange having a bore exceeding in diameter that of the said tube, said tube being of such shape that a portion of' its mass lies outside such planes of all the tangents of said fiange as are parallel to the axis of said tube.

10. The improved gem-setting herein described, consisting of atubular body portion, a concentric' annular flange extending from one end of said body portion, an external annular shoulder extending from the outer base of said fiange to the outer cylindrical surface of said tubular body portion, and an internal annular flange extending from the inner base of said fiange to the bore of said tubular body portion, the length of said tubular body portion being greater on the outside than on the inside thereof.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

GEORGE WILLIAM DOVER.

Witnesses:

HARRY M. MAYs, WARREN R. Planen.

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