US615165A - gutmann - Google Patents

Description

Patented Nov. '29, |898. J. GUTMANN.

BUTTONHULE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application Sled Oct. 24, 1896.)

(No. Model.)

'8 Sheets-Sheet I.

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Patented Nov. 29, |898. .1. GUTMANN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE (Application led Oct. 24, 1896A (No Mod 8 Sheets-Shget 2.

Ih I Illl Wifi; ess es No. 6I5,I65. i Patented Nov. 29, |898. J. GUTMANN.

BUTTUNHDLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Oct. 24. 1593- (No Modem 6 Sheets-Sheet 3.

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Patented Nov. 29, |898. J. GUTMANN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 6|5,|e5.

J. suTMANN.

Patented Nov. 297 |898.

BUTTUNHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application Bled Oct. 24, 18 (No Model.)

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8 Sheets-Sheet 5.

No. 6|5,|65. Patented Nov. 29, |898.

J. GUTMANN.

BUTTONHULE SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Qct. 24, 1896.)

(No Model.) 8 Sheets-Sheet 6.

Nrrnn STATES erica.

ATENT BUTTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 615,165, dated November 29, 1898. Application filed October 24,1896. Serial No. 609,955. (No model.)

To @Z whom t may concern:

Be it known that I, JULIUS GUTMANN, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, and a resident of Berlin, Germany, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Buttonhole-Machines, (for which I have obtained a patent in Germany, No. 87,081, dated April 23, 1895; in France, No. 253,443, dated January 25, 1896,- and in Hungary, No. 5,586, dated February 29, 1896,) of which the following is a specification.

My invention has relation to buttonholesewing machines and to themode of barring or staying one or both ends of a buttonhole to prevent such ends from fraying and tearlng.

It has heretofore been the general practice to form the staying or barring stitches (hereinafter referred to as the barring-stitches parallel or substantially parallel with the edge or binding stitches, (hereinafter referred to as the binding-stitches.) I have discovered that the en ds of a buttonhole may be more effectually and more durably barred by forming the barring-stitches at substantially right angles to the binding-stitches or parallel or substantially parallel with the length of the buttonhole or by forming the barring-stitches as described and interlocking some of them with the binding-stitches.

My invention has for its object mechanism for barring one or both ends of a buttonhole by means of stitches formed at or substantially at right angles to the binding-stitches and parallel or substantially parallel with the length of the buttonhole or by forming said barring-stitches as described and interlocking some of them with some of the bindingstitches.

In the accompanying drawings I have shown a machine more particularly adapted to bind and bar both edges and ends of a buttonhole successivelythat is to say, to tirst bind one edge, then bar one end, then bind the other edge, and finally bar the other end of such buttonhole. The mechanisms for effecting these operations by imparting to the stitch-forming appliances and to the Work support or holding devices the required movements operate automatically and alternately whether one or both ends of a buttonhole are to be barred, andthe movements of said mechanisms are controlled by those of a single main drivin g-shaft.

Although the machine is organized to bar ers the machine will be so organized as to bar 6o one end of a buttonhole only.

Referring now to the drawings, Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 are diagrammatic views illustrating the various modes of barring buttonholes,

Figs. 1 and 2 showing a buttonhole barred at 65 both ends 3 and 3a, some of the barringstitches interlocking some of the bindingstitches 2 2fL at opposite edges of the buttonhole, and Figs. 3 and 4 showing similar views of abuttonhole barred at one end only. Fig. 7o

5 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a buttonhole-machine constructed in accordance with my invention. Figs. 6 and 9 are under side views of the bed-plate, some of the mechanism being removed in the lastnamed figure. Fig. 7 is a front view of the machine-head with the front cover-plate removed, a like View of the work-clamp, and a cross-section of the bed plate through the work-plate and the feed-plate therefor. Sis a top view of the bed-plate, partly in section. Fig. 10 is a plan view of a portion of the work-clamp and of the mechanism for reciprocating the same in the formation of the barring-stitches. view thereof. Fig. 12 is a pla-n view of the main actuating ratchet-wheel, the mechanism for imparting to the work-holder a progressive or feed movement in the formation of the binding-stitches, and a part of the 9o mechanism for throwing the feed devices out of operation; and Fig. 13 is a sectional side elevation thereof.

Referring to Fig. 5, G indicates the bedplate of a buttonhole-sewing machine, S2 its standard, M the overhanging arm, and M the head on said arm, all of a construction suited to the operative mechanisms supported thereby. B is the needle-bar, w the main drivingshaft, and Cthe crank connection between said Ioo shaft and needle-bar, such shaft carrying at its rear end a gear-wheel r and the usual cord and hand or iy wheel W.

I will now describe the several groups of Fig. 8o

Fig. V1l is a sectional side 85 cooperative mechanisms in the order in which they come into operation to effect, first, the binding of one edge of abuttonhole, then the barring of one end, and next the binding of the opposite edge or the binding of said edge and the barring of the opposite end of such buttonhole.

Any suitable lower thread-feeding mechan ism may be employed, and in Figs. 5, G, and 9 I have shown a well-known mechanism of the kind-namely, a rotary shuttle S, driven by arcrank-shaft S', connected by a connectin g-rod s with the main d riving-shaft w-and these devices form no part of my invention, but are necessary to the proper formation of the binding and barring stitches.

Tzcb/"nd/"ngnlechanism-ReferringtoFigs. 5 and 7, on one side of the overhanging arm M/ is arranged to revolve in suitable bearings a shaft HJ, parallel with but below the main driving-shaft zr, said shaft 1r' carrying a gearwheel yl" in gear with the wheel r on main shaft zr. The shaft u," also carriesasleevef, that has a cam or irregular groovef?, so constructed as to impart a rocking motion to the vertical arm f of an angle-lever F, presently to be referred to. At its forward end, which projects beyond the head M of the machine, the shaft ur carries a cam g', Fig. 7, and at its rear end a cam-disk d of such construction or provided in its rear face with a cam groove of such construction as to impart a rocking motion to the vertical arm a of a rock-lever A. 'The needle-bar B has free vertical motion in bearings in a pendulous plate g, said plate being suspended from a pin 22 on the machine-head M and having a lateral projection g2, that carries a pin on which is mounted a roller in the path of the greater diameter of the aforementioned cam g', the latter being of variable diameter, so as to alternately move the pendulous plate toward the right, Fig. 7, and then release the same, said plate being moved in the opposite direction or toward the left by a spring g3, which also acts as a buffer for said plate and needle-bar. It will be seen that when shaft lw is revolved through main shaft a vibrating motion in a direction across the bed-plate is imparted to the needle-bar and needle. The work-holder comprises two plates 7b4 d5, Fig. 7, said plate 7a4 having mot-ion in a direction at right angles to the longitudinal axis of the bed-plate G, while plate d, which is the work-supporting plate and hereinafter referred to as the work-plate, has motion with such plate 7L and independently of said plate in the direction of the length of said bedplate. The work is held to the work-plate by means of a suitable clamping device comprising a lever D, pivoted about centrally on a lateral extension d of the work-plate d, Said lever carrying at the outer or free end of its arm d6 a work-clamp d? of suitable construction t-hat cooperates with the work-plate d5 to hold and impart the necessary Inovements to the work. The clam p (7F is held d own to the work by a spring d8, acting on an arm d1 of the clamp-lever D, said arm being guided on a pin d, that passes through the extension d of the work-plate d and through the bed-plate G. The lowerend d of said pin, which is bent at right angles, Fig. 9, is engaged by the free end of the arm Z of an angle-lever L,by means of which the clamp-lever can be lifted off the work-plate.

On the under side of the bed-plate G is arranged a ratchet-wheel a5, Figs. 9 and 12, that is revoluble on a journal j, secured to said bed-plate. The rock-lever A, hereinbefore referred to and'rocked by the cam-disk a on shaft w, has its lower arm connected by a segmental connecting-rod c2, Figs. 5, G, and 9, with a pawl-snpporting bar c3, which receives from lever A, through connecting-rod d2, a rectilinear reciprocating motion, said bar being guided in suitable brackets on the underside ofthe bed-plate G. 'lo the bar a3 ispivoted a pawl-arm a, to which is detachably connected, by means of a screw pin or bolt and a nut G, a pawl 5, that is normally held in engagement with the teeth of the ratchet-wheel c5 by a spring ai. The pawl c" has its face or edge proximate to the ratchet-Wheel a inclined rearwardly and outwardly or away from said ratchet-Wheel, and upon said inclined face bears a pin to on the arm 7 of a bell-crank lever i. It will readily be seen that as the shaft fw is revolved by the main shaft u: through the gearing r r described and the lever A is rocked to and fro by the camdisk a on said shaft w the pawl-supporting bar CL3 is reciprocated. During the forward movement of the bar a3 the pawl 5 moves over the teeth of the ratchet-wheel a5 without revolving the same; but during the backward movement of said bar the said pawl acts positively on wheel a5 and revolves the same, and inasmuch as the lever t" is immovable, as hereinafter explained, the said pawl as it moves along the pin t will be disengaged from the teeth of the ratchet-wheel a5 after it has revolved the same a certain distance. The pawl-arm a" is adjustable relatively to the ratchet-wheel for the purpose of varying within certain limits the amplitude of the step-by-step rotations of said wheel and for the purpose of holdingr the pawl 5 out of engagement with the wheel when this is desirable or necessary. To these ends the vertical arm 7 of lever 1L", which is fnlcrumed at S, is connected to a wing-nut N on the outer cylindrical screw threaded end of a bar i, Figs. G and fl, a coiled spring being mounted on said cylindrical portion of the bar between the nut and an enlarged portion of such bar, whose rear end is pivoted to a swinging arm i3, itself pivoted to a suitable bracket 23 at the rear end of the machine, Fig. 5. The bart' has a lock-notch 14,

that is engaged by a spring-actuated catch or locking-pawl l, whose arm i extends laterally beyond the bed-plate and has its end bent up to serve as a handheld for moving 'said catch out of engagement with the locknotchli in said bar t', Fig. 8. The bar t' has a lateral slotted projection 12, Figs. 6 and 9, into the slot of which projects the short arm i6 of a hand-lever I', fulcrumed in a suitable bracket 7 on the under side of the bed-plate G, the longer arm i5 of said lever I projecting through the bed-plate, Fig. 5. It is obvious that by manipulating the Wing-n ut N the bellcrank levert', and therethrough the paWl-arm d4,can be adj usted with greatnicety,thespring i2 acting as a yielding abutment for the nut, and such adjustment can be effected without disengaging the catch I from the locknotch in bar t'. If, however, it becomes desirable or necessary to throw the pawl 5 instantly out of engagement with the ratchetwheel a5, this maybe eiected by moving said catch out of engagement with the lock-notch 14 in bar z' with one hand andby moving the long arm t6. forwardly with the other hand, the bar fi being moved backward and the bell-crank lever so actuated as to move the pawl-arm (through the pin fio) on said lever away from the ratchet-wheel a5, said parts remaining in this position until the arm 'i6 of lever I is moved back again to a vertical position.

On its upper face the ratchetwheel a5 has a discoidal raised portiona7, Figs..12 and 13, in which is formed a heart-shaped groove as, engaged by a roller 21 on a pin b at the free end of an angle-leverb, (also shown in dotted lines in Fig. 6.) The leverb is fulcrumed on a stud Z22 on the under side of the bed-plate Gr and has a segmental slot h3, into which extends a pin 197 at the-inner end of a connecting plate or bar c, that is coupled to a bar c2, connected to a pin 022, secured to and depending from the work-plate d5. The connecting plates or bars c2 and c are coupled together by means of a coupling-pin c', that iits suitable holes in said plates, said pin c having a head engaged by the free end of a spring c4, secured to the under side of plate c2, the tendency of the spring c4 being to throw the pin c downward out of engagement with the plates c2 c. The pin c is normally held in engagement with the plates c2 c by a bearing-plate c3, that has a foot c7, guided in a suitable bracket cs, and from said foot c7 projects a pin co, that extends through a hole in the end of one of the arms of a two-armed lever c5, Fig. 9, (also shown in dotted lines, Fig. 6,) for purposes hereinafter explained.

An arm b4, provided with a segmental slot h5, is so arranged relatively to the lever b, hereinabove described, that a screw-pin h6 at the angle of said lever extends through the segmental slot b5, so that by means of a nut provided with a suitable handle Z215, Figs. 6 and 12, the said lever b can be rigidly con. nected with said arm b4. It will be seen that the amplitude of the reciprocating movements of the connecting-plate c can be varied within certain limits by adjusting the pin 177 or both tonhole.

pins b6 and 197 in their respective slots b5 b5 in arm h4 and lever b. A

The mechanism so far described serves to sew or bind the edges of a buttonhole, and this, as well as the barring of one or both ends of such buttonhole, may be effected either before or after the buttonhole is cut, as will be readily understood,the fabric being placed on the work-plate d5 so that the buttonhole will lie in the plane of the driving-shafts ww', with the left-hand end of suchbuttonhole in the path of the needle. The driving-shaft being rotated in the usual manner, the needle-bar B will be reciprocated and at the same time vibrated, while the work-holding devicest'. e., the work-plate d5 and work-clamp D- will receive a step-by-step progressive or feed motion'toward the left end of the machine through one half-say, the half als, Figs. 6 and 12-of the heart-shaped groove as in the raised portion a7 of ratchet-Wheel a5 and through the step-by-step rotation of such ratchet-wheel, said heart-shaped groove acting upon the roller 21 on lever l), and through the described connections-fi. c., the plates c c2 on work-plate (Z5-and as the clampinglever D is carried by said work-plate d5 and is free to move either toward the right or left in the plane of the main driving-shaft the said devices and the work are moved step by step toward the left end of the machine, as stated, thereby binding one edge of the but- When the binding of one edge is completed and as the roller is about to enter the other half of the heart-shaped groove, it becomes necessary to stop the operation of the binding mechanism and throw the barring mechanism into operation.

Stop and uncoupltng mechanism-On the face of the ratchet-Wheel a5 are two segmental ,raised portions 0.9,diametrically opposite each other, and in the path of said segmental projections lies a roller c on the lower horizontal arm e of an angle-lever E, Figs. 5, 9, and 12, (also shown in dotted lines in Fig. 6,) said lever being fulcrumed to a suitable bracket 2O on the under side of the bed-plate G, the vertical arm e5 of which lever is connected to one end of a push-bar e6, Fig. 5, whose opposite end is pivotally connected with a lockrod e, that has a conical locking-head e7, Fig. 7, which normally lies in front of a recess g7 in the pendulous plate g for the needle-bar B. The arrangement of these parts is such that as the roller 21 ot lever b is about to enter the other halt' of the heart-shaped groove referred to the said roller e on arm e of lever E rides upon one of the projections a9, thereby moving the arm e5 of said lever E backward, drawing the lock-bar e" along and bringing its head e7 into engagement with the recess in the pendulous plate g, thereby stopping the vibrations thereof. Simultaneously there with the said arm e of lever E, which is provided with a pin e, that extends through the arm c25 of the lever c5, hereinbefore referred IOO IIO

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to, raises said arm c25 against the stress of the spring eX, bearing on pin e0, Fig. 9, and depresses the arm C21 of said lever c5, and as this arm is connected, through the pin e0, with the foot of the pressure-plate c3, Fig. 13, said plate is depressed, thereby permitting the spring c1 to move the coupling-pin c out of engagement with plates c2 and c, and consequently with lever b, thus stopping the stepby-step feed movement of the work-plate (Z5 and therewith that of the work-clamp D. Simultaneously with these operations the clamp D and the work-plate must be so connected as to form barring-stitches at the left end of the buttonhole.

BarrL'vzg-SZCZL and cozlpZ/ng mechanism.- The arm e of lever E has a plate-like projection e2, Figs. 9, 1i', and 13, (also shown in dotted'lines in Fig. 6,) on which bears a couplin g-pin e1, that is guided in a sleeeve e3, depending from the bed-plate G, and is adapted to be moved through a longitudinal slot in a lever f, fulcrumed at fx to the upper face of the bed-plate G, Fig. S, and through a transverse slot (Z2 in plate (Z, hereinbefore referred to as secured to the extension (Z15 of the workplate (Z5. As the arm e of lever E is lifted in riding onto one of the projections (t9 on the face of ratchet-wheel (L5, as above described, the plate-like projection e2 pushes the pin e1 through a hole in lever f into the slot (Z4 of plate (Z, thus coupling the work-plate (Z5 and the work-clamp to said lever f. is connected by a bar f, Fig. S, with the short arm f1 of the rock-lever F, hereinbefore mentioned, which lever is rocked by the groove in the sleeve f on shaft zu', so that the work-holding devices will receive a short reciprocating motion in a plane parallel with the said shaft 1U' and with the length of the buttonhole.

The discoidal raised portion (L7 on the ratchet-wheel (L5 has on its periphery four shoulders (L10 (L11 (L12 (L10, arranged diametric ally opposite each other in front of the. segmental projection (1,1 on the face of said ratchet-wheel (L5, said shoulders (L10 (L11 and (L12 (L13 being connected by an inwardly-curved face (L31.

A roller 7L` on the end of an arm 7L of a rock lever Il, fulcrumed to the under side of the bed-plate at 4:1, is held in contact with the periphery of the raised part (L1 of ratchetwheel (t0 by a coiled spring y0 exerting power on the free end of the arm h2 of rock-lever H, Fig. 8. This end of arm h2 of lever H has a longitudinal slot 40, into which projects a pin h3, that passes through a hole in the feedplate h1 and through a transverse slot h0 in the work -plate (Z5, whereby a step-by-ste p progressive or feed motion in a direction at right angles to the length of the buttonhole is imparted to said feed-plate h4 without interfering with the reciprocating motion in a direction at right angles to said feed motion of the work-plate (Z5.

It has been stated above that when one edge This lever f of a buttonhole is bound the work-holding devices will be at the limit of their movement toward the left-that is to say, the needle will be above the left end of such buttonhole, its vibrating motion having been arrested, the feed devices uncoupled from the work-holding devices, and the said devices coupled with the feed and'rcciprocating mechanism thereof, at which moment the roller ZL or lever 1I rides over the shoulder ((10, whereby the arm 7L2 on said lever, and through it the feed-plate h1 and work-plate (Z0, are moved forward in the direction of arrow o, Figs. 6 and 9,which is necessary, because the barring is commenced on one side of the buttonhole. The roller Zt will now be acted upon by the inwardly-curved face (L31, that connects the two shoulders (L10 (L11, whereby the lever-arm ZL2 will be moved progressively step by step in an opposite direction, (arrow n', Figs. G and 9,) thereby im parting to the work-holdin g devices the required feed motion during the barring of the left end 3 of the buttonhole. The roller h then comes in contact with shoulder (L11. During this time the work-plate (Z5 receives the proper reciprocating motion to form the barring-stitches at said end 3, Figs. l and 2, of the buttonhole, the needle havinga vertical reciprocating movement only. As the roller h on arm h of lever Il rides over the shoulder (L11 the arm h2 of said lever is thrown back in the direction of arrow v to bring the opposite edge of the buttonhole into a proper position relatively to the needle. The described movements of the feed-lever H take place in view of the fact that the point of the shoulder (L10, and in fact a portion of the peripheral curved face ((01 of the raised portion (l10n ratchet-wheel (z5, projects beyond the general periphery of said projectionnamely,from those peripheral segments which connect the inner edge of shoulder ((10 with the like edge of shoulder (L12 and the outeredge of shoulder (L11 with the like edge of shoulder (L13, the raised portion being of a uniform diameter throughout these positions, while said diameter on a line with the outer edge of the shoulders (L10 ((12 and along a portion of the inwardly-curved face (L31 is greater than said common diameter. The moment the roller 7L on arm Zt of lever H reaches the top of shoulder (L11 the roller es on arm e of lever E rides off the proximate segmental projection (L0 on the face of the ratchet-wheel (L0, whereby said lever is rocked, so as to move the push-bar forward and disengage the pendnlous plate g, allowing the needle-bar B to vibrate. The dropping of the lever E also causes the coupling-pin e1, Figs. 10 and l1, to drop out of engagement with the plate (Z' on extension (Z1 of work-plate (Z5 and allows the spring eX to depress the arm c25 of lever c5, and consequently raise the arm 024 of said lever and with it the pressure-plate o0, which latter moves the coupling-pin c against the stress of its spring c1 again into engagement with the plates c c1 to couple them together, Fig.

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13, and consequently with the feed-lever b, whose roller now enters the second half of the heart-shaped groove a8 in the raised portion a? on the ratchet a5, so that the parts are again in their respective positions necessary to the "binding of the opposite edge of the buttonhole. Inasmuch as the two halves of the heart-shaped groove as are symmetrical, the work-holding devices will again receive a step-by-step or feed movement, but in a reverse direction-namely, toward the rightuntil said opposite edge is bound, when the work may be removed. If, however, the opposite edge 23 is also to be bound, then as soon as the work reaches the limit of its feed motion toward the right the uncoupling of the feed devices and the vibration of the needle-bar are stopped, the work-holding devices are coupled to the lever f and rock-lever F, and the feed-lever I-I is then operated bythe shoulders cl2 als and the feed-surface @31, connecting the same, substantially as above described; but as in this case the fabric and work-holding devices will have been moved to the limit of their movement toward the right the slot d2 in the plate cl on the extension e115 of the work-plate d5 will be out of reach of the pin c4, so that the levers f and F could not be coupled to the work-plate, and to effect this the said plate d has a cour paratively large opening 17, Figs. 10 and 1l, and into said opening is fitted a projection on a small plate cl3 for the reception of the aforesaid coupling-pin e4. The plate d3 is T-shaped and has in its head a longitudinal slot 19, so that said plate can be adjusted toward or from the vertical axis of the coupling-pin c4 in accordance with the length of the buttonhole to be barred at both ends, so that when the work holding devices have reached the limit of their movement toward the right the socket in the under side of the projection of the adjustable plate cl3 will lie in the plane of motion of the said couplingpin c4, whereby the parts are coupled together, as before and for the purposes stated, as will be readily understood.

Having thus described guy invention, what I claim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

l. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,the combination with suitable stitch-forming appliances and a work-holder,of means for imparting to the needle-bar first a vibrating motion in a direction at right angles to the length of the buttonhole in addition to its vertical reciprocating motion,-and to the work-holder a progressive motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, next a vertical reciprocating motion only to the needle-bar, and to the work-holder a reciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, and simultaneously therewith a progressive motion in a direction at right angles to such buttonhole, whereby one edge of 4a buttonhole is bound and one end barred by stitches laid parallel or approximately parallel with said edge, as set forth.

2. In a buttonhole-sewin g machine,the combination with suitable stitch-forming applireciprocating motion lengthwise of the buttonhole, and simultaneously therewith a progressive motion in a direction at right angles to such buttonhole, whereby one edge of a buttonhole is bound and one end barred by stitches laid parallel or approximately parallel with said edge,and means whereby these operations are repeated and the direction of the progressive feed movements of the workholder lengthwise and crosswise of the buttonhole are reversed thereby binding the other edge and similarly barring the other end of such buttonhole.

3. In abuttonhole-sewingmachine,the combination with the stitch-forming devices, the work holding and guiding appliances and mechanism for imparting a vibrating motion to the needle-bar in addition to its vertical reciprocating motion; of mechanism actuating the work holding and guiding appliances to feed the work along as the stitching proceeds, a stop mechanism for stopping the vibratory movement of the needle-bar without stopping its vertical reciprocating motion, and mechanism for imparting to the work through the work holding and guiding appliances a progressive movement and simultaneously therewith a reciprocating movement in a direction at right angles to said progressive movement, and means for adjusting the movements of the work-holder relatively to the length of the buttonhole, substantially as and for the purposes set forth. i

4. In abuttonhole-sewing machine,the combination with the work-plate d5, of the ratchetwheel a5 provided with a cam-groove in one of its faces, a lever provided with a pin projecting into said cam-groove and mechanism adapted to operate automatically and period- IOO ITO

ically tov connect and disconnect the workplate from said lever, for the purpose set forth.

5. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the work-plate d5, an actuatinglever, connections between the two, mechanism adapted to automatically and periodically disconnect the lever from the plate, and the ratchet-wheel d having a heartgroove in which the free end of said lever works, of adj usting devices for adjusting the amplitude of the movements of the lever, for the purpose set forth.

6. In a buttonhole-sewing1nachine,the combination with the stitch-forming devices, the work holding and guiding appliances and mechanism for imparting to the needle-bar a vibrating motion in addition to its vertical reciprocating motion; of' mechanism acting upon said work holding and guiding appliances to feed the work along as the stitching progresses, a stop mechanism acting upon the needle-bar to stop its vibration, and mechanism acting upon the work holding and guiding appliances to impart to the work a progressive movement and simultaneously therewith a reciprocating movement at right angles to such progressive movement,said mechanisms operating automatically and alternately, whereby one edge of a buttouhole may be first sewed or bound, then one end of such buttonhole stayed by stitches laid substantially at right angles to the binding-stitches, after which the other edge, and opposite end of said buttonhole can be sewed and stayed in a similar manner without interruption, substantially as set forth.

7. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,tl1e combination with the needle-bar, mechanism for reciprocating the same vertically, a pendulous bearing for and in which said bar has free vertical motion, and mechanism for vibrating said bearing; of a stop mechanism com prisin g an endwise-movable rod provided with a stop at one end adapted to engage the vibratory bearing and stop the vibrations thereof, and an actuating-lever connected with said rod and setin motion by a revoluble element of the machine to move such rod in one or the other direction, for the purpose set forth.

S. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,the combination with the work-support, appliances for imparting to said support a steady progressive or feed motion in one or the other direction, and a connection between said support and appliances; of a coupling for coupling the support to such connection, and means for automatically uncoupling the same, for the purpose set forth.

9. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,the combination with the work-support, appliances for imparting to said support a steady progressive or feed motion in one or the other direction, and a connection between said support and appliances; of a coupling for coupling the support to such connection, means for automatically uncoupling the same, and mechanism for imparting to the support a reciprocating motion when uncoupled from the feed devices, for the purpose set forth.

IO. In a butt-onhole-sewing machine, the combination with the work-support, the feedlever l), the connecting-plate c2, the couplingpin ct, the spring c4 exerting pressure on said pin to move the same out of engagement with said plate and lever 5 of a bearing acting forcibly upon the pin against the stress of its spring to hold said pin in engagement with the aforesaid plate c and lever b, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

Il. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the work-support,tl1e feedlever l), the connecting-plate ci the couplingpin c', the spring c" exerting pressure on said pin to move the same out of engagement with said plate and lever; of a bearing acting forcibly upon the pin against the stress of its spring to hold said pin in engagement with the aforesaid plate c' and lever b, and mechanism connected with and operating'to move said bearing away from the pin and allow the latter to uncouple said plate c' from lever b, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

l2. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the work-support, mechanism for imparting thereto a progressive or feed motion, a spring-controlled coupling-pin coupling said support to said mechanism, and appliances operating automatically to uneouple said parts by withdrawal of the pin; of mechanism for imparting to the work-support a reciprocating and a simultaneous progressive or feed motion in directions at right angles to each other immediately after the withdrawal of the coupling-pin, for the purpose set forth.

13. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combina-tion with the work-support, mechanism coupled thereto for imparting a progressive or feed motion to such support, and appliances for uncoupling the support from said mechanism, the shaft u", the cam-sleeve f thereon, the lever F vibrated by said sleeve, the lever f connected with and vibrated by lever F, a coupling-pin adapted to couple the work-support and lever together, and means for moving said pin into and out of engagement with said parts; of the ratchet-wheel a5 provided with a cylindrical raised portion a7 having shoulders am a a12 am connected by cam-surfaces, and a lever acted upon by said shoulders and cam-surfaces and connected with the work-support whereby a reciprocating motion is imparted to said support and a simultaneous progressive or feed motion in one or the other direction, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

Il. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the slotted plate d of the work-support and the socketed plate da adjustable in the slot of said plate, the slotted lever f, the coupling-pin c* adapted to be moved through the slot of said lever into a second slot in the aforesaid plate d', and the lever E constructed as described to act on said pin; of the step-ly-step rotatable ratchetwheel c5 having segmental projections a on its upper face in the path of a roller on said lever E, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

l5. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with the slotted plate d on extension d of work-plate d, said plate d having a slot d2 and opening 17, the socket-piece d adjustable in said opening 17, and a slotted vibrating lever; of a coupling-pin and mechanism operating to periodically and alternatcly move said pin through the slot in the lever and the slot d2 in work-plate d or into the socket-piece d thereon, for the purpose set forth.

rol

Ill

jections a9 in the path of the aforesaid roller; of the lever e5 engaged by the aforesaid pin, and the mechanism operated by said lever e5, for the purpose set forth.

In testimony whereof I hereunto sign my name, in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses, this 9th day of September, 1896.

JULIUS GUTMANN.

Witnesses:

HENRY HASPER, W. HAUPT.

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