US540676A - Sewing-machine - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 2.

J. M. MERROW.

SEWING MAGHINE. No. 540,676. Patenmed June 11, 1895.

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J. M. MERROW.

SEWING MAGHINE. No. 540,676. Patented June 11, 895.

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. SEWING MACHINE. No. 540,676.- Patented June 11,1895.

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SEWING MACHINE No. 540,676. Patented June 11, 1895.

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witnesses (No Model.) 7 Sheets-Sheet 6.

J. M. MERROW.

SEWING MACHINE.

' No. 540,676. Patented June 11, 1895.-

Win/asses (No Model.) 7 SheetsSheet 7.

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SEWING MACHINE.

Patented June 11, 1895. 27

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7 N TE 1 S ATES PATE T OFFICE.

JOSEPH M. MERROW, OF MANSFIELD, CONNECTICUT.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 540,676, dated June 11, 1 895.

Application filed May 23, 1392. Serial a. 434,060. on model.)

To all whom ifmctyconcern:

Be it known that I, JOSEPH M. MERROW, of Merrow, in the townof Mansfield, in the county of Tolland and State of Connecticut, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines-for Forming and Apply ing Open-Edge Trimmings; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, and to the figures and letters of reference marked thereon.

My present invention relates to a new,and, as I believe, an original type or class of ma chines, and is designed especially for the production and application ofwhat is known as open edge work, such as is employed for finishing off, trimming or ornamenting garments, 850, but which is capable as well of other anddiiferent uses. One form or embodiment of the principles'involved in this new variety of machines is disclosed in my application, Serial No. 291,317, to which this is supplemental; while the method or mode of operation involved is embraced in my application, Serial No. 284,257; and several forms of the product are illustrated in applications, Serial Nos. 309,384., 391,120, and 392,047.

The machine represented herein includes in its construction some features common to button-hole and overseaming machines, and which are applicable to the same or similar uses by the suppression or suspension of those other features which characterize the new type of machines, confer upon it its novel functions, and aid in the production of the new articles. Thus it involves the use of suitable stitch forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, and a finger around which the stitches may be formefiall of which elements,

considered in the abstract, are old and well known. Thestitch forming mechanism which has been selectedto illustrate an embodiment of the invention is of the well known single thread type provided with an eye pointed needle, and a looper or book co-operating therewith in a well known manner, to effect the desired concatenati ons of the thread; It also possesses featurescommon to most button-hole and overseaming machines, in that the stitch forming mechanism and fabric are movable laterally with respect, one to the other; and it includes a finger or equivalent support over or around which the stitches are or may be formed as is common in overseaining machines.

In ordinary overseaming, button-hole and some other styles of machines the fabric and stitch -formlng mechanisms have been arranged to move relatively to each other and transversely to the line of feed, but in most, if not all such cases, the stitches produced were formed wholly within the fabric, or partly around the edge or a portion thereof, to reinforce or bind off the edge or to form connected rows of stitches.

The present machine differs essentially from all such machines in capacity, equipment, mode of operation, and the character of its product, and these differences, characteristic of the new type, are jdue to the fact that the stitch forming devices :penetrate or engage the fabric at intervals-only, and are caused to operate at other times to form the stitches separate from or unconnected with the fabric, so that, as the stitch forming mechanism continues in action,it forms a connected chain of stitches separate from the fabric but connected orattached thereto, at intervals, by the inclusion of a portion of the fabric within one or more stitches composing the chain. Thus the stitch forming operations are per-- formed outside of'or beyond the fabric, in the intervals between successive engagements with the fabric, resulting in the production of a series of festoons or loops formed by the chain and attached to the fabric or supporting base by its inclusion within one or more of the stitches comprising said chain.

To effect this result, it is only required that the stitch forming mechanism should be so organized and constructed as to be capable of producing or forming the chain separate from the fabric or base during the intervals between successive engagements of the thread with the fabric, and as one way of accomplishing this result I have arranged the stitch forming mechanism so that, at the proper in-. tervals, it will be shifted laterally out of range of the fabric, to produce the chain, and then be shifted within range of the fabric, to effect the engagement of the chain with the fabric by the inclusion of the latter within one or more of the stitches.

The invention also contemplates and provides for the introduction or incorporation into the chain thus formed, of one or more supplemental chains, tapes, cords, 650.

In addition to the novel features which give character to the machine, as illustrated by the form and composition of the product, and which may be said to be fundamental in their nature, there are other novel features of construction, some of which are peculiar to the special form of embodiment shown, while others are applicable to overseaming and button hole machines in general.

In the accompanying drawings, showing one embodiment of my present invention, Figure 1 is a front elevation. Fig. 2 is a top plan view, a portion of the work-plate, needle-lever, and swinging chain-guide being removed to display operative parts below. Fig. 3 is an end view. Fig. 4 is a detached view of a portion of the looper-shaft and its joint. Fig. 5 is a top plan view, on an enlarged scale, of a portion of the work-plate, feed-dogs, needle, finger-plate, and thread guides or deflectors. Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the thread-defleeting finger. Fig. 6 is a detail view showing, in elevation, a portion of the needle, finger-plate, and thread-guide. Fig. 7 is a detail view of the looper-shaft and connections. Fig.8 is a side elevation, and Fig. 9 a top view of the looper, shown on an enlarged scale. Fig. 10 is a perspective view illustrating the action of the thread-guide in deflecting the needle-thread. Fig. 11 is a view in perspective, showing the devices for effecting the simultaneous reciprocation of the needle and looper, the guides for needle -block being broken away. Figv 12 is a view in perspective of the double feed mechanism. Figs. 13 to 17, inclusive, are diagrammatic views indicating some of various styles of finish which the machine is designed to produce.

Similarletters and numerals of reference in the several figures indicate the same parts.

Although, as is apparent, other known varieties of stitch forming mechanism might readily be adapted for the purpose, the kind shown is the one preferred, it being of the ordinary single thread variety employing a reciprocating eye pointed needle 1 and an oscillating looper 2 of well known construction, and hence not requiring further description. The needle and looper are arranged to reciprocate laterally with respect to the line of the feed motion, and as it is desirable that said motions should be quickly and simultaneously performed, the following simple and effective means have been devised for the purpose. A suitable frame is provided, such asthat composed of bed-plate A andgoose neck B, and the main driving shaft 3 is fitted in bearings thereon, one of said bearings being formed in the standard of the goose neck, and the other in a journal block a.

Shaft 3 is provided with the usual driving devices such as the hand wheel and pulley, and carries a spherical eccentric 4 from which motion is transmitted through pitman 5 to the needle lever 6 supported upon a headed fulcrum pin 7 detachably secured in standard B by a set screw or equivalent fastening device.

In or upon the side or outer end of the goose neck are formed ways for the reception of a slide 8, the latter being provided with beveled edges, and held in place and guided between a fixed gib 9 and an adjustable gib 10 on the goose neck.

The slide 8, which is arranged to reciprocate horizontally in a plane transverse to the feed motion, carries the vertical guide or guides in which the needleblock 11 reciprocates. These guides are preferably formed in detachable sections of which one section 12 is attached to or madeintegral with slide 8, and the other, 13, secured to the first by bolts 14 with interposed tube sections or washers 15. The inner proximate faces of the guide sections are formed with ways16,V- shaped in cross section, and the needle block 11 is formed with correspondinglyshaped grooves to fit said ways. Adjustment of the guides isthus provided for, as by shortening the tubes 15 the ways can be brought closer together to take up lost motion, occasioned by wear, the. The needle block is reciprocated on or in its ways on slide 8 and in adirection transverse to the motion of the latter, through the medium of a link 17 pivoted at one end to the needleblock and at the other, to the needle-lever G.

The looper 2 is adjustably and detachably secured to a rock shaft 18 supported at either end in bearings a a said shaft being pro vided with a flattened or angular portion 19 for the reception of a yoke or collar 20, which latter is preferably formed with a re movable section 21 to facilitate its removal for repairs, 850. The oscillating motions of the looper are effected through the agency of a lever 22, pivoted at 23 to the frame and connected to yoke 20, as by means of a link 24, and said lever is acted upon by a cam 25 on the main shaft.

It will be observed that the reciprocating motions of the needle block together with the oscillating motion of the looper are derived entirely from the main shaft, and, further, that they constitute, in connection with a suitable feedingmechanism, the principal elements of a single thread sewing machine, it being understood that the needle is supplied with a thread in the usual manner, and that proper tension devices and take up mechanism is to be supplied if required or deemed advisable.

To provide for the lateral reciprocation of the stitch forming mechanism, which per se is old in several varieties of overseaming and button-hole machines, but is here presented in an improved form, the following arrangement of parts has been designed and adopted.

As before explained, the guides for the needle block are attached to the slide 8, hence partake of the movements of the latter while free to reciprocate vertically. The movements of this slide 8 are derived from a cam cylinder 26, mountedon a shaft 27, supported in standards a a and provided with gear teeth meshing with those of a pinion 28 on the main shaft 3. The cam cylinder -26 is furnished with a cam groove 29 for the reception of a pin 30 on an arm or link 31, the latter being pivoted to the goose neck at one end, and connected, by a link 32 at the other end, to an arm 33 on a vertical shaft 34 pivotally supported, as between conical pointel screws 35. The shaft 34 carries an arm 36 which is connected through a link 37 with slide 8, so that, as said shaft is oscillated through its connection with the cam cylinder, it will effect a corresponding reciprocation of the slide 8, and with it, the needle-block and the needle carried thereby, without, however, interfering with the vertical reciprocations of the ranged to slide longitudinally in its bearings and in the yoke 20 through which the oscillating motions are produced, and a sleeve 38,

embracing said shaft and confined between collars 39 thereon, is connected by a link 40 to an arm 41, on shaft 34, whereby as said shaft is rocked it effects the equal and simultaneous lateral reciprocations of the needle and looper. For ordinary overseaming these motions would be sufficient providing that when the stitch forming mechanism was at one extreme of its horizontal motion, the needle would penetrate the cloth, and at the opposite extreme, pass beyond the edge of the cloth, in this way forming the stitches around the edge of the fabric; or if arranged to penetrate the fabric at opposite extremes of its horizontal motion, a cross or other fancy stitching would be produced. Such, however, is not the main object of my present invention, nor the normal action of the machine, as will presently appear, and I merely mention this capacity of the machine, to illustratesomeof its capabilties, and the adaptability of some of the mechanism for other purposes than the one mainly in view.

It will be observed that the gear on the cam cylinder is much larger than the driving pinion on the main shaft, whereby provision is made for rotating the cam cylinder at a lower rate of speed than the main shaft, the object of which will presently appear.

The feeding mechanism shown is of a type common in sewing machines, and is made in duplicate, that is to say, two independent feed dogs are employed, the one (42) for the fabric, and the other (43) located to one side, be-

' .yond the edge of the fabric, for assisting in yond the edge of the fabric or other base.

In the example illustrated, the feed dog carrier 44 is provided with a shoulder 45 and a ledge or lip 46 which are held against the cam 47 on main shaft 3, by a spring 48 held in place by a shouldered screw 49. dog is adj ustably attached to its carrier in the usual manner, and its throw is adjusted by means of a screw 50 for determining the extent of feed at each reciprocation. The two feed mechanisms are or may be substantial duplicates, with such modifications as are necessary to adapt them to their respective localities.

The presser foot bar 51 is mounted and operated in the usual manner, but, instead of a single presser foot, it is provided with two, one of said presser feet (52), corresponding to the ordinary presser foot, being arranged above feed dog 42, and the other (53), preferably of thin spring steel, to permit it to yield independently of the presser foot 52, and at the same time said supplemental presser foot will-be elevated with the principal presser foot when the latter is raised and withdraw from contact with the fabric.

As before stated machines have heretofore been constructed in which the needle and looper or shuttle, constituting the stitch forming mechanism, have been reciprocated laterally so that the stitches were formed or completed in different planes, but in every such case the mechanism was so organized that at each reciprocation of the needle, or at eachalternate reciprocation of the needle, it would penetrate the fabric and form a stitch therein.

Now one of the principal objects of my present invention is to form a series of stitches or a chain independent of and removed from the fabric, and to engage such chain with the fabric at intervals, by causing one or more stitches to be taken in the fabric, and to effect this result the cam (29) controlling the lateral motions of the stitch forming mechanism is so formed, proportionedand arranged, that it will hold the needle in position to engage the cloth or fabric during one or more reciprocations of the needle and the formation of a corresponding number of stitches, and thenmove the stitch forming mechanism laterally and maintain it out of range of the fabric during a series of reciprocations and the formation of a corresponding length of chain, after which it will again bring the needle within range of the fabric, to attach the chain thereto. It is desirable, more particularly with a single thread chain stitch mechanism of this kind, that a support of some kind be provided around which the stitches may be formed, as well in as beyond or separate from thefabric, and such a means is furnished by the finger plate 60, provided with a pluralityof fingers, which, for convenience of description, are marked 61, 62, and 63. In the example illusadvancing the edging or material lying be- The feed I trated three fingers areshown, and the cam 29 is arranged to move the stitch forming devices into four positions, in only one of which, that nearest the main feed dog, does the needle engage the fabric.

The finger plate is adjustably secured in position upon the work plate 0 and the latter is held and supported in the usual manner, being provided with suitable openings for the feed dogs and fingers.

It is understood that in the example shown the fingers 61, 62 and 63 are auxiliary to the stitch-forming mechanism and aid in the formation of the stitches.

The operation of the machine as thus far described is as follows, it being understood that the form and proportions of the finish may be varied by the substitution of equivalent switch forrning mechanism, and the form of the cam controlling the lateral movements of the stitch forming devices. The machine as represented is adjusted to cause the needle to reciprocate once through the fabric, and several times outside of or beyond the edge of the fabric, and between consecutive reciprocations performed while outside the fabric, the needle and looper are moved laterally with respect to one or another of the fingers. The main shaft being set in motion effects, at each complete revolution, one complete reciprocation of the needle and a corresponding oscillation of the looper, to form a single stitch, at the same time producing a feed-motion of the fabric lying between the principal presscr foot and feed dog. Starting with the needle in line with the space between finger G1 and the edge of the opening or throat in the work plate, it will have descended through the fabric and arisen therefrom, and a loop of the thread will be held on the looper. At the same time the cam cylinder will have been partly advanced and the stitch forming devices, that is to say, the needle and looper, will be shifted laterally to bring the needle in line with the space between fingers 61 and 62 and beyond the edge of the fabric. The stitch forming operation will be repeated, and the thread drawn around the edge of the fabric and finger 61. The next turn of the main shaft should bring the needle back to its first posi tion, if the machine was designed to perform the ordinary operation of overseaming, but instead of that, the stitch forming devices are carried farther away from the fabric until the needle stands opposite the space between fingers 62 and 63, so that the next stitch will be formed around finger 62. These operations are repeated as many times as desired to form a chain of the requisite length, the needle and looper being carried either to the right or left at each complete reciprocation of the needle while the latter is elevated, and the needle in its downward movement passing between the fingers or outside of the outer one, but not in the same place twice in succession; and as a complete stitch is formed at each complete reciprocation of the needle, a chain is formed with each stitch around one of the fingers. When the desired number of stitches have thus been taken, and a chain of the requisite length has been produced, the needle will again be brought back to the first position and caused to again penetrate the fabric, thus forming a stitch therein and again connecting the chain to the fabric. While the stitches are thus being made and the chain formed, the fabric has been fed forward more or less, as has also the chain, and the relative extent of feed motion will determine, in a measure, the fullness of the chain between the points of attachment to the fabric.

In practiceit has been found desirable to provide some efficient means for deflecting the needle thread when the needle is moved so as to cross the thread. As the needle travels laterally from the right toward the 1cft,

by the addition of what are termed thread guards or carriers 65. These thread guards are arrangedone above each finger, and their upper faces are beveled or rounded so that as the needle is carried laterally and the thread is drawn over the inclined face, it will follow the path of least resistance and be deiiected rearwardly from the point of the neodle and onto the finger. This action is illustrated in Fig. 10 wherein the needle is shown rising from the space outside of finger 61, and passing laterally to enter between fingers 61 and 62. When the needle is carried toward the left hand the point is not compelled to cross the thread, and the thread guards, as such, are not necessary, but even then they operate advantageously to regulate the thread and render the finish more even.

The thread guards act as thread carriers to carry the thread out of the course of the needle in its downward passage.

Thus far I have only described a mechanism for producing the simplest form of openedge work or finish, composed of a single chain connected at intervals to the fabric, to form loops or festoons as illustrated in Fig. 17; but the machine is adapted for forming more elaborate patterns by the application of suitable guides for conducting or throwing in prepared chains, tapes, cords, &c., during the stitch forming operation, so that they will be caught and held by the stitches of the chain as represented in Figs. 13 to 16. Two such guides or thread carriers are shown at 70 and 71. The thread carrier 70 is shown in the form of an arm pivoted to an upright c on the work plate, and having an eye or guide in its outer or free end for carrying a thread, chain, &c., toward and from the stitch forming devices. The arm is mounted upon a rock whose crank arm 72 is connected by link shaft 74 to a lever 76 pivoted on the goose neck or frame, and provided with a pin engaging a cam groove 78in the cam cylinder. The guide 71 -is adjustably secured to the work plate, and is located so asto conduct a tape, chain, braid or other suitable material in position to be penetrated by the needle when it passes down outside of the finger 63, but not at other times, and thus the outer ends of the loops or festoons will be disposed and held in line parallel with the edge of the fabric asillustrated in Fig. 15, the length or tightness of the said outer chain or other material being regulated by the feed produced by the supplemental feed-dog 43, as compared with that of the principal feed-dog 42 which operates to advance the fabric. Thread guide 70 maybe arranged to throw its thread into the chain of stitches at various points, but in the present case it is adjusted to throw the thread, chain, &c., into position to be entered by the needle when the latter engages the chain or other material supplied through guide 71, thus binding the two strands together and incorporating them with the principal chain as illustrated in Figs. 13, 14 and 16. When the needle has passed through the thread, chain, &c., the guide 70 is retracted a suitable distance,

and a finger 79 is arranged to engage'the thread carried by guide 70 to deflect and hold it so that when the needleagain engages said thread the latter will be formed in a loop of more or less length, to form a scallop or festoon upon and beyond the open edging made bythe stitch forming mechanism. The finger 79 is attached to a rock shaft 80, supported in bearings 81 on the work plate, and provided with an arm 82 carryinga stud or pin engaging a cam groove 83in the cam cylinder. Finger 79 is so formed and arranged that as it rises it will deflect the thread carried by guide 70 and pass it, but on its downward or return stroke it will engage the thread and hold it until the guide 70 has carried its thread into position to be engaged by the needle thread, thus forming a loop or festoon of the desired dimensions, as illustrated in Figs.13, l4 and 16.

It is of course understood that the number of rotations of the cam cylinder in relation to the main shaft may be varied to suit circumstances, even to driving said cam cylinder through intermediate gearing; and vthe form of the grooves in said cylinder may be modified, to vary the finish produced; and the number of chain or thread guides may be increased or diminished without departing from the spirit of my invention. Equivalent forms of stitch forming mechanisms may also be substitu'ted for making and attaching the chain to the fabric or foundation, ($16., the material of whatsoever nature to which the running chain is applied) the essential feature of the invention in its broad sense residing in the combination and arrangement of the stitchforming mechanism and the devices for supporting the fabric in such manner that after one or more stitches have been formed in or connected to the fabric, the stitch forming operation shall continue upon supporting fingers located beyond the fabric and in position to receive the stitches as produced and a chain be formed separate from the fabric and again be attached to the latter at a point more or less remote from the first point-of attachment.

Although convenient, it is by no means essential, that the several operating cams should be formed in one and the same cam cylinder.

In referring to the material carried or guided by the parts 70, 71, or equivalent devices, I have employed the term thread meaning thereby any suitable material in the form of a tape, cord, chain of stitches or other thing adapted to be supplied and incorporated or held by the chain made by the stitch forming mechanism, and to become a part of the finish produced thereby. So, also, the material to which the chains are to be attached is, for convenience, designated a fabric, such term having reference to the base upon which the edging is formed or to which it is attached, without regard to the composition or structure of said base. I

In Figs. 13 to 17 inclusive are illustrated some of the various forms of finish which can be produced by the machine shown without further adjustment or modification of the cams or other parts, and it is obvious that numerous other styles of finish can readily be produced by slight changes in the movements controlling the formation of the principal chain and its application to the fabric and the number and movements of the guides by which the other cords, chains or other materials are fed to and incorporated within the principal chain.

In the diagrammatic views, Figs. 13 to 17, inclusive, the principal chain or that produced by the stitch forming mechanism is marked 00, the strand controlled by guide 70 is marked y, the strand controlled by guide 71 is marked .2, and the fabric is indicated at F.

Figs. 13 and 14 show how the stitches composing the chain 00 are formed and connected to the fabric at intervals at points x, while the strands y z are incorporated in and joined to the chain m at points x To produce this form of finish the controlling cam is so shaped that the first stitch of each cycle of stitches composing chain 00 shall be formed around the finger 61 at the edge of the fabric. This forms the attachment to the fabric. The second, third and fourthstitches are formed around finger 62 by reciprocating the needle laterally so that it will descend alternately on opposite sides of said finger. is formed around the finger 63, the stitch forming devices being shifted to bring the needle outside of said finger and into position to engage the two strands y e which latter are directed into position by the guides IIO The fifth stitch 70 and 71. The two strands y .2 having thus been connected and attached to the chain as, the next or sixth stitch is formed around finger 63 by shifting the stitch forming mechanism laterally, so that the needle will descend between fingers 63 and 62, after which the seventh, eighth and ninth stitches are formed around finger 62, and the tenth stitch, the last in the cycle, is formed around finger (El and the edge of the fabric. It is obvious that either or both of the inserted strands y 2' may be omitted and the finish correspondingly modified or changed. Thus in Fig. the strand 3 has been omitted; in Fig. 16 the strand .2 is omitted; and in Fig. 17 both sand y are left out, the chain 50 standing alone.

The finish produced by the omission of strand, y, (Fig. 15) differs from that formed when strand 5 is left out (Fig. 16) onlyin one particular and that is the relative length or fullness of the outer strand, andthis depends somewhat upon the adjustments of the two feed mechanisms which control the advance of the fabric and of the finish respectively. The movement or feed of strand :2 is controlled by feed dog 43. Hence the length of strand intermediate contiguous points of attachment to chain 50 may be equal or exceed the distance between points J3 when the chain engages the fabric; but as represented in the drawings the strand .2 is of snbstantiallythe same length as the edge of the fabric to which it is attached by chain or. Henceit lies substantially parallel with said edge. The strand 3 on the other hand, is carried laterally by the guide and is bent or foldedlaround the point of the finger '79. Consequently it is longer than the fabric to which it is connected and stands out in loops or festoons beyond the points of attachment to the chain 00. A great variety of finishes can be produced by slight modifications in the actuating devices and the arrangement of the guides by which the supplemental strands, are introduced into chain :10 as the latter is being formed, as will be obvious to any one skilled in the art, a greater or less number of fingers being employed to correspond with the movements of the stitch forming devices and the particular variety of finish it is desired to produce.

Having thus described myinvention, what I claim as new is 1. A machine of the character described adapted for forming otien edge trimmings, substantially as described, the same com prising fabric holding and feeding devices, combined with a stitch forming mechanism movable laterally of the direction of the feed motion, to carry the stitch forming devices toward and away from the'fabric; actuating devices controlling said lateral motions of the stitch forming mechanism; actuating devices for the stitch forming mechanism adjusted and arranged to effect a series of stitch forming operations outside of or beyond the fabric between successive engagements with the fabric and a plurality of fingers on which the stitches are formed by the stitch-tonn ing mechanism duringits lateral movements, whereby a chain or series of stitches is formed separate from the fabric and connected thereto at intervals by certain of the stitches of the chain.

2. In combination with the fabric holding and feeding devices, a stitch forming mechanism movable laterally of the line of feed and held normally out of range of the fabric while operating to form a chain or connected series of stitches and to be shifted at intervals within range of the fabric a plurality of fingers to receive the stitches, and actuating devices controlling both the stitch forming operations and lateral movements of the stitch forming mechanism, substantially as described.

3. In combination with fabricholding and feeding devices, a sewing or stitch forming mechanism movable laterally of the line of feed, and provided with a plurality of fingers around which the stitches are formed successively substantially as described.

4. In combination with a support for the fabric, a fabric guide, and a plurality of fingers one of said fingers standing within and the balance beyond the line of the fabric guide; a stitch forming mechanism movable intermittingly in a direction transverse to the length of the fingers to form successive stitches thereon; actuating devices for the stitch forming mechanism; and actuating de vices controlling the lateral motions of the said stitch forming mechanism, whereby the latter is operated to form one or more stitches about the inner finger and the fabric and a series of stitches upon the fingers beyond the fabric; substantially as described.

5. In combination with fabric holding and feeding devices, such as the work plate, presser foot and feed-dogofa sewing machine; a stitch forming or sewing mechanism guided to reciprocate in a plane transverse to the feed-motion, and provided with a needle and a looper; a series of fingers around which the stitches are formed; actuating devices for operating the needle and looper to form stitches; and actuating devices controlling the lateral motions of the said needle and looper, said actuating devices operating to carry the nee= dle from a point in line with the fabric to a point beyond the latter between successive reciprocations of the needle, and subsequently to shift the needle laterally of the fingers between successive reciprocations of said needle and while the latter is maintained away from or out of contact with the fabric; substantially as described.

6. In combination with the feeding and stitch forming mechanisms of a sewing machine wherein the feed motion occurs between successive reciprocations of the needle, and the latter is mounted to reciprocate laterally of the feed motion, to alternately enter the fabric and pass beyond the edge thereof; a plurality of fingers arranged side by side within the range of the lateral reciprocating movements of the stitch forming mechanism and pointing in the direction of the feeding motion; actuating devices controlling the lateral movements of the needle, arranged and adjusted to hold the needle beyond and out of contact with the fabric while a series of reciprocations of the needle are being performed and a series of connected stitches are being made, and to again bring the needle within range of the fabric so that it will enter the latter and form a stitch therein; substantially as described.

7. In combination with fabric holding and feeding devices, a stitch forming mechanism movablelaterally of the line of feed and provided with a series of fingers located within the range of the lateralmovements of the stitch forming mechanism, and actuating devices for engaging the fabric, a stitch forming mechanism movable laterally of the feed motion and beyond the edge of the fabric a plurality of fingers over which the stitches are formed, and a supplemental feed-dog located to one side of the principal feed-dog and in rear of the stitch forming mechanism, substantially as described.

1,0. In combination with thelaterally reciprocating stitch'forming mechanism, and the plurality of fingers over which stitches are formed beyond the edge of the fabric, a feeddog for the fabric, and an independent feed dog located to one side ofthe fabric and in rear of the fingers, to receive and engage the trimming beyond the edge of the fabric.

11. In combination with a stitch-forming mechanism having a laterally movable eye pointed needle, and a finger or support with relation to which the lateral motions of the needle are performed, to carry the thread on opposite sides of said finger, a thread guard.

or guide between the needle and finger engaging the thread between the needle and fingel to deflect it to one side of the point of the needle; substantially as described.

12. In combination with the laterally movable eye pointed needle of a stitch-forming mechanism, and a finger around which the stitches are formed, a thread guard provided with a beveled or inclined surface and located between the finger and the path traversed by the needle in passing from one side of the finger to the other; substantially as described.

13. In combination with a finger around which stitches are formed, and a laterally movable and longitudinally reciprocating eye pointed needle traversing from one side to the other of the finger, a thread guard pro vided with a rearwardly deflecting surface and located between the finger and the path traversed by the needle in passing from one side to the other of the finger; substantially as described.

14. In combination with a laterally movable reciprocating needle and a series of fingers around which the thread is carried by the needle to form stitches, a series of thread guards, one for each finger, engaging the thread between the needle and finger to deflect said thread away from the point of the needle; substantially as described.

15 In combination with fabric supporting and feeding devices, a stitch forming mechanism comprisinga longitudinally reciprocating and laterally movable needle, and alooper cooperating therewith to form a stitch during each reciprocation of the needle in or beyond the edge of the fabric; a plurality of fingers over or around which the stitches are formed; and actuating devices engaging the movable supports for the needle and operating to shift the latter first in line with/the fabric, then beyond the fabric between the first and second fingers, and subsequently back and forth between or beyond other fingers before returning by successive stages to the fabric, which latter has in the meantime been operated upon by the feed mechanism and advanced beyond the point at which the needle before penetrated it; substantially as described.

16. In combination with a feed mechanism engaging the fabric and operating to advance the latter after the formation of each stitch, and a stitch forming mechanism provided with a longitudinally reciprocating and laterally movable needle and a cooperating looper, said needle and looper acting in conjunction to form stitches within or beyond the edge of the fabric; a series of fingers located within the space traversed by the stitch-forming mechanism during its lateral movements and situated to one side of and beyond the fabric around which stitches are formed separate from the fabric; actuating devices controlling the lateral movements of the needle and operating to shift the position of the latter after each stitch is formed upon one of said fingers, and to bring the needle into position to penetrate the fabric after a series of stitches or a chain has been completed on the fingers; substantially as described.

17. In combination with a fabric feeding mechanism, and a stitch forming mechanism movable laterally of the line of feed, to form stitches in orbeyond the edge of the fabric; a plurality of fingers around which the stitches are formed beyond the fabric; and a guide for directing a tape, chain, cord or other material into the path of the stitch forming devices beyond the outermost finger, substantially as described, whereby during the formation of the chain a supplemental thread is introduced therein.

18. In combination with the mechanism for producing and connecting the chain to the edge of the fabric, the same comprising the fabric feeding devices, and a stitch-forming mechanism movable laterally of the line of feed and operating to form a chain or series of connected stitches beyond the edge of the fabric connected to the latter at intervals by certain of the stitches formed in the fabric, a reciprocating thread guide movable toward and from the stitch forming mechanism, to present a supplemental thread and incorporate the same in the chain formed by the stitch-forming mechanism; substantially as described.

19. In combination with the fabric feeding devices, the stitch forming mechanism, movable laterally of the line of feed and operating to form stitches in and beyond the edge of the fabric, and the plurality of fingers around which stitches are formed by the stitch forming mechanism beyond the fabric, aguide for directing a thread into the chain beyond the outer finger, and a second guide reciprocating toward and from the stitch forming mechanism and also carrying a thread into the chain; substantially as described.

20. In combinationwith the fabric holding and feeding devices, the fingers located beyond the edge of the fabric and the stitch forming mechanism movable laterally of the line of feed and operating to form stitches in the edge of the fabric and around the fingers beyond the fabric, the reciprocating thread guide carrying a supplemental thread, and the reciprocating finger engaging said supplemental thread; substantially as described.

21. The combination, in a stitch forming or sewing mechanism, of the looper shaft mounted to reciprocate longitudinally in its bearings and provided with a flattened portion for between collars on said shaft and actuated from a cam, through a lever and link connection, for reciprocating said shaft; substan tiall y as described.

23. In a stitch forming or sewing mechanism, the combination With the needle and looper, the former supported to reciprocate vertically in guides on a laterally movable slide, and the latter attached to a longitudinally movable oscillating shaft, the needle-lever driven from an eccentric on the main shaft, the yoke embracing a flattened section of the looper shaft and actuated from a cam on the main shaft through alever and link connection, the shaft connected to bothv the collar on looper shaft and to the slide carrying the guides for needle block, said shaft being rocked through intermediate connections by a cam which is driven from but at less speed than the main shaft; substantially as described.

24. The combination of the following elements; a fabric supporting and guiding device; a feeding mechanism for the fabric; a stitch forming mechanism movable laterally of the line of feed-movement and adapted to form stitches beyond the fabric during its lateral reciprocatory movement; and a guide arranged to deliver a strand into the path of the stitch-forming devices to be engaged by the stitches beyond the edge of the fabric, substantially as described.

JOSEPH M. MERROlV. Witnesses:

FRANK II. ALLEN, ALONZO M. LUTHER.

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