US456467A - Island - Google Patents

Description

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEicE.

CHRISTINA P. BORTON, OF PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND, ASSIGNOR TO THE TILLCOX ci: GIBBS SElVING MACHINE COMPANY, OF NEIV YORK, N. Y.

MAUFACTURE OF SEWED GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 456,467, dated July 21, 1891.

Application filed April 22, 1890. Serial No. 348,977. (No specimens.)

To all whom it may concern: without ridge or welt and are strong and du- Beit known that I, CHRISTINA P. BURTON, rable, irrespective of the direction in which rof` Providence, in the State of Rhode Island, the fabric has been cut. This object is athave invented a newand useful Improvement tained in the following way: The pieces havin the Manufacture of Articles from Cut, ing been cut to tlierdesired shape, which may Knitted, or other Fabrics, which improvebe done without reference to the character of ment is fully set forth in the following specithe raw edge produced thereby, the edges are fcation prepared for sewing by forming along each,

This invention has special reference to the separately, a row of stitches preferably by io manufacture of garments and other articles means of asuitableoveredge sewing-machine.

from looped or knitted fabric, and more par- This results in the expeditious production of ticularly to the uniting of the cut edges of What may be termed an artificial selvage said fabric by means of sewing machine edge. It is difficult, owing to the curl ofknit Stitches goods, to produce aline of stitching exactly at In the best quality of knit goods the sevthe edge of the fabric. Itis thereforepreferred 5 eral parts are formed with selvage edges and to perform this operation by means of an overthe loops on the meeting edges are united by edge sewing-machine provided with a triman interlocking thread, so that the resulting ming attachment, which acts on the goods diseam is jatmand presents no ridge or Welt. rectly in advance of the stitch-formingmech- 7o zo This reswiilt has been approximated by'sewing anism. Such a machine is described in Lettogether two pieces cut from knitted goods ters Patent No. 263,550, granted Augusttl, by means of chain stitchessubstantially equal 1882, for the invention of Stockton Borton. in length to the gage of the fabric and trim- By this means the line of stitching is accu ming off the surplus margin as close as posratcly placed, so that the edge presents a sesible to the seam. Thoughthe ridge resultries of loops formed by the sewing-thread, ing in this case is comparatively slight, this Which, holds securely to the fabric, owing to method cannot be resorted to in the manuthe fact that the needle enters the goods some facture of all parts of cut hosiery. Morelittle distance from the edge, as Well underover, by placing the seam close to the edge stood. The two meeting edges having been 8o 3o its strength and durability are diminished. thus prepared, the pieces to be lioiiie'd are The raw edges of knit goods have also been placed one on the other, or edge to edge, and united by oVerseaming-machines and inaagain passed through an oveiedge orother chines making a zigzag stitch; but While the suitable machine (Without a trimming atproduct in these cases is a comparatively tachment) in such manner that the third line strong seam the formation of an objectionof stitching, or the threads which form the able ridge or Welt along the line of stitching seam proper, interlock with the loops formed is the result. by the preliminary lines of stitching. It Will In unitingthe raivcutcdges of knitted goods be understood that the seam thus formed the strength of the resulting seam depends does not depend for its strength upon the 9o 4o largely upon the direction of the cut edge hold which its threads take upon the fabric, with respect to the Wales of the fabric. 'lhe as this may be slight, but that it is retained strongest seam is made when the cut is parmainly by the loops of what is herein termed allel with the Wales; but when the cutis made the artificial sclvage. Consequently when across the Wales, as in the case of the shoulthe operation is performed and the goods der-seain in iindershirts, or at an oblique anstraightened out the united edges meet or gle thereto, the tendency to raveling is very abut, as in the regular-made goods, and do great. not overlap at the seam. rIhe slight addi- This invention has for its object the protional thicknessimparted bythe extra threads duction of hosiery and other articles from is not sufficient to produce discomfort to the roo pieces of knitted or other fabric in which the Wea-rer of the goods. The new scam is of parseams uniting the proximate cnt edges are ticular advantage in the manufacture of iindersl'irts. Y The trunks Y of these garments are usually knitted on a circular-knittin g machine, the fabric being cut across the wales, presenting raw edges to be joined over the shoulders. At this point the formation of any ordinary seam is inadmissible, and consequently the practice is to pick up each individual loop upon points and unite the meeting edges by what is known as a turning-olf ro machine. This operation is tedious, and of course adds considerably to the cost of manufacture. The ribbed cuff portions, which are -separately knitted, are ordinarily joined to the sleeves, and the finishing-band to the t 5 lower edge of the garment in the same way.

The new seam herein described can be successfully applied to these as well as to all other seams of the garment', and the manufacture thereof greatly expedited and cheapened. For the purpose of a better understanding of the said invention reference may be had to the accompanying drawings, which represent on an enlarged scale two pieces of knit fabric united by a seam embodying or madeV z 5 in accordance with the said invention.

Figure l is a plan View showing two pieces of knit fabric with their meeting edges prepared with overedge stitches and the uniting seam of overseam stitches partially completed, 3o and Fig. 2 a perspective View showing artificial selvage edges formed by zigzag stitches united by an cverseain, 1

The .two pieces of fabric to be joined are designated by the letter ct. They are cut to 3,5V proper shape, and their raw edgesY are provided with the lines h of overedge sewingmachine stitches, constituting an artificial selvage or anchorage. These stitches present a series of loops at the edge of the cut fabric, 4o which,as already stated, is preferably trimmed in advance of the sewing, so that the loops may be accurately placed. The twov edges are joined by the threads c, the stitches passing through or interlocking wi'th'th'eV Vloops' of the threads hso that theseam holds mainly by the threads instead of altogether by the thread or loops of the fabric itself. As shown, the seam formed in this manner is fiat and n presents but one thickness of fabric.

Vhile the invention is of peculiar utility in connection with the manufacture of knitted goods, it may obviously be used in connection with woven or other fabric. It is also obvious that the invention may be used to join Atogether two pieces of fabric, one of which has a regular selvage edge. In that case it will be necessary to form the artificial selvage in the manner pointed out only on the edge of the piece that has been cut.

Having now fully described my said invention, the part or improvement which l claim as new isl. In the art of manufacturing articles, such as garments, from suitable fabric, such as knit goods, the improvement consisting in forming along each flat cut edge aline of stitches, as specied, so that each cut edge will be provided with an articial selvage, and then uniting the edges of the contiguous pieces by a line of stitches interlocking with the selvage stitches, thereby producing a iiat seam without ridge, hem, or welt, substantially as described. c f

2. The process of uniting the edges of fabric in the manufacture of articles, such as garments, which process consists in first forining separately along each at cut edge an artitcial selvage by means of overedge stitches,

and then uniting the edges of contiguous pieces by another line of stitches interlocking with and holding by the loops of the firstnamed stitches, thereby producing a fiat seam without ridge, hem, or welt, substantially as described. Y YY 'Y c Y Y Y Y Y Y Y 3. The combination, with two pieces of cut knit goods having their edges abutted, of a continuous row of loops constituting an artiiicial selvage for each edge, and an interlocking thread or threads continuously meeting the opposite loops of said rows or selvages, substantially as described.

ln testimony whereof I have signed this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

CHRISTINA P. BORTON.

XVitnesses:

S. BoRToN, CHRIs'ro. RHODES.

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