US399837A - Manufacture of boots and shoes - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.) 2 Sheets- Sheet 1.

- G. H. CLARK.

MANUFAG'TURB OP'BOOTS AND SHOES. N0. 399.83'7Q Patented Mar. 19, 1889.,

WITNESSES;- F 2 MVENTUF N, PETERS. Pmwumu m mr. Wnhlnglon. n.c.

' (No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

SHOE

PatentedM 9,1889.

G. H. RK.

ANUFAGTURB 0' TS AND UNITED STATES Farnmr FFICE.

GEORGE H. CLARK, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE CLARK RELASTING AND SHOE-TREEING COMPANY, OF PORTLAND, MAINE.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 399,837, dated March 19, 1889.

Application filed November 7, 1887- Serial No. 254,478. (No model.)

My invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes, and more particularly to a mode of lasting during the said manufacture. Heretofore in the manufacture of boots and shoes the ordinary last-that is to say, the

r 5 last of the shape and dimensions designed for the special article to be made is used in the boot or shoe throughout the entire operation of manufacture so far as any last is required. \Vhatever last is used for any given size of boot or shoe, the same or the same shape is used throughout. A certain di'fficulty arises in the manufacture. In some steps of the process it is desirable to use a fore-part last and to have the fore part remain in the boot 2 5 or shoe, while the rear part is removed to make room for the top of the standard, to which the boot or shoe is affixed but the ordinary last of the same shape as that used to form the shoe, but with its rear part removed, 0 will not remain in the boot or shoe, but will tend constantly to slip backward when not held by a rear part in place, or some substitute therefor. Further, boots and shoes formed on the ordinary last and as heretofore made 3 5 tend to draw or wrinkle on the sides near the ball of the foot or a little to the rear thereof after they are removed from the last. This tendency is greatest on the inner side or edge; but it also occurs to some extent on the outside. 40 My main object is to prevent this drawing of the leath er,which gives aw rinkled and crushed appearance to the bootor shoe, and which tends to increase as the boot or shoe is bent, and also by the same means to keep a fore-part last in 5 the boot or shoe during that part of the process of manufacture in which a fore-part last may be used. To this end my invention con sists in the method of lasting hereinafter described. I first form the shoe or boot in the ordinary Way used to join the upper to the sole. I then remove the last used, as ordinarily, to form the article, which is then beaten up as usual. I then insert a last which is enlarged laterally at the points hereinafter specifically indicated, but approximately at the ball of the foot, and which is reduced on the upper part an amount practically corresponding to the amount of enlargement on the sides, so that the circular dimensions may be the same or a trifle greater. This distorted last is kept inthe shoe'orboot during the remainder of the process of manufacture in which a last is required, andthe result is that the boot or shoe is set at the points indicated in firm rounded or arched form, which will not draw 6 5 or wrinkle. The enlargements on the sides also serve the other purpose heretofore referred to. The distortion practically'makes the last turn up more on the top and otherwise changes its shape in relation to the shoe or boot, so that it will. not tend to withdraw from the shoe, and the form of last may be used as a fore part last with good effect for that reason.

It will be understood that the shape of the distorted" last, so called by me, is a relative one-that is to say, it is distorted in a particular manner in relation to the last used to form the boot or shoe in which it is used for the subsequent operations of finishing.

In order to more clearly explain my said invention, I have added illustrations, in the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 a perspective View of a ladys button boot made in accordance with this in- "ention. Fig. 2 is a similar view of the last on which the shoe is first lasted and formed.

Fig. 3 is a similar view of the fore-part follower-last. Fig. 4 is a section thereof on line 5 5. In this figure the relative differences between the original and the follower lasts are 0 indicated in dotted lines.

In carrying out this my invention. the upper of the shoe or boot is prepared by cutting and sewing in the usual manner, and is then lasted over the original last, after which the 5 said last is removed and the upper, outer, and inner soles are permanently secured together. The beating out is then performed. The fore-part follower-last is then introduced and the further work of completing and finishing I00 the shoe is performed.

The size and shape of the original last, and

consequently the size and shape originally given the intended shoe, is a matter of taste quite largely, and the size and shape of the fore-part follower-last chosen With due regard to the original last. To this end I take the original last a standard and produce a forepart follower-last having contour difi'fering from the original last, as before described, and as further indicated in the drawings by dotted lines. The said fore-part follower-last is crowded forward into the shoe by any suitable mechanism. A strain is put upon the fore part of the boot or shoe, particularly about the distorted or enlarged portion of the forepart last, and as the same last remains in the shoe a long time it operates to reshape and set the contour of the upper, so that when said last is removed the shoe-upper is struck up better than shoes made in the ordinary Way.

I claim as my invention 1. An improved mode of manufacturing,

boots and shoes, which consists in forming them upon a last in the ordinary manner, then removing said last and introducing for the sub sequent finishing a last distorted relatively to the last used to form the said boot or shoe, substantially as described.

2. The process of manufacturing boots and shoes, consisting in first forming the boot or shoe on a last in an ordinary manner, then removing the said last and introducing for the subsequent finishing a last distorted relatively to the last used in forming the boot or shoe by lateral enlargements near the ball of the shoe or boot, substantially as described.

3. The process of manufacturing boots and shoes, consisting in first forming the boot or shoe on a last in an ordinary manner, then removing the said last and introducing for the subsequent finishing a fore-part last distorted relatively to the last used in forming the boot or shoe by lateral enlargements near the ball of the shoe or boot, substantially as described.

GEO. H. CLARK. Witnesses:

E. O. WRIGHT, C. B. TUTTLE.

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