US317417A - Levi price and isaac wallach - Google Patents

Description

(No Model.)

L. PRICE 8v I. WALLACE.

SHIRT BOSOM.

Patented May 5,Y 1885.

Z5/a j N Pttms, Phemunwgmpner, wmngmn. D. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OEEICEo LEVI PRICE AND ISAAC WALLACE, 0F NEW YORK, ASSIGNORS TO H. I/VAL- LACH a Sons,

SHIRT-BOSOM.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 317,417, dated May 5, 1885.

Appncation nieu June 2, 1884. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Beit known that we, LEVI PRICE and IsAAc WALLACE, both citizens ofthe United States, and both residents of New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, have jointly invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sporting Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

Our invention relates especially to an improvement in shirts used by Sportsmen, al. though applicable also to other shirts and to jackets and similar garments; and it consists, principally, in forming the bosom out of a single piece of material, so folded that from it are produced a chest-protecting piece, a ily for button-holes, and two strips or laps for the reception of eyelet-holes, through which the ornamental lacing may be laced, or other ornamenting material attached. By this construction of the bosom the labor and expense of preparing separate pieces for these several parts, and sewing them together, is avoided, and also the seams consequent on joining several pieces of goods together, which stiffen the bosom and injure its set when in use, are done away with.

Like letters in the accompanying drawings indicate like parts. i

Figure l shows a front view of the Shirt, the liy being unbuttoned and turned somewhat back. Fig. 2 shows a sectional view of the bosom on theline XX of Fig. 1, and illustrates the method of folding the cloth composing the bosom. Fig.3 illustrates the folds. Fig. 4illus.- trates a method of cutting the shirt-body, whereby we utilize a part of the front of the shirt as a re enforce for the button-receiving strip.

A is the body of the shirt cut down through about the middle of its front, as at a, to about the waist. Instead of cutting this slit, however, that portion ofthe front of the shirt which lies directly under the bosom may beremoved entirely on the lines a ct, or thereabouts, and I prefer to do this for summer shirts so that there may not be too many thicknesses of cloth over the chest, which would tend to make the shirt too warm for comfort. I prefer, however, to so cut the front of the shirt as not to entirely remove the portion under the bosom, but so that I may use the said part or a portion of it at a in Figi; and I also, at the lower end of the cutl a, extend such cut at right angles, as seen at a', and fold the piece or liap thus produced, or a part of itonly, if the whole of it be not needed, backwardly, and, preferably, inwardly, to forln the re-enforce or backing piece for the button-receiving edge, as shownin dotted lines at a, Fig. 4. This has the additional advantage of giving a finished, because folded, edge to the button-receivin g piece. If, however, it be desired to make a warm shirt, suitable for use in coldweather, I leave the material on both sides of the cut or slit a. where it is, and thepart opposite the y may be stitched at its edge to the c-hestprotecting piece, hereinafter to be described, and the part 0n the same side as thefly may be secured to the chest-protecting piece bya button, a', Fig. l, which will engage with a button-hole in the chestprotecting piece.

'The bosom is cut from the cloth all in one piece, and of the desired shape to fit the neck and conform to the desired outline for the bosom when folded, and when cut out it is folded lengthwise of the piece, commencing at one edge, or at any other place, as follows: Assuming-that the folding is commenced at one edge, fold first at c, turning over the edge wide enough to form the eyelet holes, hereinafter described, through two thicknesses of the cloth. A second fold is 'then made at d, which may be parallel with the fold c, or not, as desired, depending upon whether itis intended that the upper or the lower end of the bosom shouldbe the widest or whether it shall be of the same width at top and bottom. A third fold is then made, as ate; then afourth fold,as at f,- then a fth, as at g; and a sixth, as at h. The several folds are so made that the edges or folds h c shall come nearly together and lie parallel to each other. In these two edges the eyelet-holes are formed for the reception of the lacing, the doubled-under edges jj giving sufficient thickness of material to make these eyelet-holes firm, and the fold affords a IOO vfor the sake of clearness in explanation.

iinished edge at h and c. The lacing X is laced through these eyelet-holes throughout the entire length of the bosom, terminating at the throat with the usual knot or other ornamental finishing, or only throughout a part of it, as desired, orin any other preferred manner.

K is the chestprotecting piece, which extends from one side of thebosom to the other, being an unbroken piece. The two pieces marked k Ict-@Z e., the left-hand edge of the chest-protecting piece k and the folded-over portion which lies immediately down upon itconstitute the iy, the button-holes lo being cut through both of them and the stitches around the button-holes uniting them together. They are shown separated in the drawings The buttons are seen atl l, and are sewed to the body of the shirt, as usual. The folded-over portion, marked m m, lies over the fly and hides the buttons from view. The yis tacked here and there tothis superimposed part m m as usual.

The right-hand edge of the bosom-piece, at the fold marked d, is stitched to the body of the shirt, as usual, by any desired number of lines of stitches, and the stitching also extends around the lower edge of the bosom or iinishing tab, if one be used,as at o, firmly uniting it to the body of the shirt, and also, preferably up the lefthand side of the bosom, about one-fourth or one third the length of the bosom, as seen at p. From there upwardly on this side the iy connes the bosom by means of the buttons, as before stated. 'v

There is a button-hole, q, at the extreme up per corner of the part m, which engages with a button fastened to the body of the shirt, under the collar thereof, thus securing good adjustment of the bosom when worn.

If desired, the inner edge ofthe flyfold (seen at f may be stitched to the chest-protecting piece k, as seen by dotted line'marked n in Fig. 3, which represents the stitches, andv we also, to add to the appearance of the bosom, stitch the free edges j j to the cloth above them, inside of the rows of eyeletholes, and we also stitch the edge marked g with the same kind of stitching that is employed to imite the opposite edge, d, to the body of the shirt, so that both sides of the bosom may correspond in appearance.

It will thus be seen that out of a single piece of cloth, properly folded, we form a bosom embodying the following parts-'z'. e., a continnous chest-protecting piece, a button-hole fly, and parallel contiguous edges for the reception of ornamental lacing, and also that whenY the body-piece A is not cut out underneath the bosom, as heretofore stated, there are three thicknesses of cloth for the protection of the chest, thus making a very warm protection therefor', the iirst thickness being the part of the body of the shirt through which the slit a extends, the second the chest-protecting piece lo, and the third the overlapping pieces which are united at their edges by the lacing X; and it will be also noticed that the outermost pieces of cloth,through the edges of which the lacing is placed, are not conned to the chest-protecting piece, which lies beneath them, but are separate therefrom, and when the shirt is worn movement of the body of the wearer causes these loose edges, which are confined by the lacing only, to move independently of the chest-protecting piece, thus disclosing the recess beneath them and giving an effect somewhat resembling that of aruied or puffed shirt-front, which greatly enhances its beauty. These edges may, however, be stitched down to the chest-protecting piece k, if preferred. This is preferred by some in hunting-or iishing shirts, since the loose flaps are apt to catch in twigs and branches when in the woods.

We do not limit ourselves to the details of the construct-ion shown, since they can be departed from and still our invention be employed.

Having described our invention, we claiml. The described improvementin shirts, consisting of the combination, with the body of the shirt, of a bosom formed of one piece of folded material and constituting the following parts: a continuous chest-protecting piece, a fly, and two parts overlapping the chest- Vprotectin g part, and having substantially parallel edges for the reception of-a lacing or similar material, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

2. The combination, in a shirt, ofthe bodypiece A, and a bosom attached to the bodypiece having an interior continu ous chest-protecting piece, k, and two overlapping pieces with their edges presented toward each other, through which a lacing or equivalent material may be laced, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.

Signed at New York city, .in the county of New York and State of New York, this 28th day of May, A. D. 1884.

LEVI PRICE. ISAAC WALLAGH.

Witnesses EMANUEL WALLACE, AUG. Z. MrLrUs.

IOO

IIO

Images