US2438171A - jam-ieson - Google Patents

Description

Marh 23, 1948. R. JAMIESON 2,438,171

GARMENT PROVIDED WITH SLEEVES Filed July 25, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 .JazzzlG-SazV March 23, 1948. R. JAMIESON 3 GARMENT PROVIDED WITH SLEEVES Filed July 25, 945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 E E; Q

Patented Mar. 23, 1948 UNITED srAtr-Es Paren PROViDEDWTHSLEEVES Ralph Jamieson; Edinburgh,- Scotland? Applicafipn July 2-5; 1945; Serial -No; 606,938

InGreat'Britain Mayli); 1945 3 Claims; 1

This invention has reference to coats,,.iackets: and other garments provided with sleeves with high close fitting armholes.

In such garments as heretofore made there is substantially no give .or elasticity at thearm pits, and this, even in the case of goodwfittingagar ments, can give rise to discomfort and tends to hamper the free movement of the arms. In the case of poorly fitting garments the aforesaid discom-forture may be muchmonemarked',

The present invention has for its object to provide improvements in jackets, coats and other sleeved garments having highclose fitting amnholes which will allow of free and unhampered movement of the arms and which will ensure that there is practically no pressure on the peetoralis major at the front of the armpit even when the arms are in a forward position.

Preferred embodiments of the invention. will now be described, by way of example, with reference to the annexed drawings wherein:

Figure 1 illustrates a ladys coat in accordance with the invention.

Figure 2 is a plan of one of the panels of the coat.

Figure 3 is the underside sleeve.

Figure 4 is a top side sleeve and Figure 5 is the complete sleeve prior to being sewn into a panel.

Figure 6 is a raglan coat in accordance with the invention.

Figure '7 shows the panels of the said raglan coat and Figure 8 illustrates a plan of the sleeve prior to it being sewn and inserted in the garment.

The coat shown in Figure 1 is formed of two panels a, a, each provided with an armhole b. If the armhole was of standard high close fitting formation it would be as indicated by the dotted lines 0. But as clearly shown in Figures 1 and 2, the under section of the armhole is cut away as at d, d. The under sleeve, Figure 3, has a somewhat triangular extension e extending from the upper edge e thereof. Said edge is cut at an angle so that the cloth at base e of said extension, is on the bias. Said extension when the sleeve is fitted in the armhole folds along said line e'-'. The top side sleeve Figure 4 is cut to project at f and from said projection extends an extension f of somewhat triangular formation. The base of said extension, indicated at f, is on the bias of the cloth and along said line the extension folds when the sleeve is inserted in its panel.

The top side and underside sleeves are sewn together. and. likewiseatheir. itwo extensions; as

shownl in: Figure 5 The sleeve then introduced intthep-corresponding panel, the said extension eand; f being-.sewn to the sides d; d, "and bottom of the armhole; ;AS 5'iS.'-'thB. common practiceitaperis'; or may be sewn; along the seams where :thcssleeves joint-the. armpits and alsoalong the seam where:thetwonextensionsware. sewn: t. eachaether, thetapernreventing stretch-along said seams...

The foidswat theaarmxpit-s are: along the line re -sand; flijsaidi zfeldsiormingathe. under. sections of thezhigh': close.rlttingarmhole .corresponding toT-tliedottediine: 0,1 .andaas-iciearly'shown sin EiguresB and Arbothwaidlinesaneion the bias of the-cloth Being;.;on.;;the there .is a give or yield along the; fold at. the; armholes, thereby allowing; .ireaand unhampered:v movement of: the

armsand ensuring: thait ithere is;.=practically no pressureon the-pectoralis major at the front or the armpit. Further, the said give or yield de creases the likelihood of the garment bursting at the armholes. It will be noted that the sides of the extensions form sharp angles, as distinct from curves which ensure that the extensions will fold along a definite controlled line.

The lining at the armholes should be cut as the cloth and provided with pleats or folds to permit of the unhampered give or yield of the cloth, the pleats being provided as the lining does not give to the same extent as the cloth forming the lower section of the armhole.

Jackets may be made in like manner to the overcoat above described but in such case the panels will of course be correspondingly altered and the extensions e and f may be shorter and likewise the opening below the armholes to receive said extensions.

In the raglan overcoat illustrated in Figures 6 to 8, the armhole g, is of conventional high close fitting formation but as indicated at g is extended downwards as at h. The sleeves differ from those of usual design for such garments in that they are provided with extensions i, 'l, the foot of such extension, indicated by the lines 1', being on the bias of the cloth.

When the sides of the sleeves and likewise the edges i of the extensions are sewn together the sleeves are sewn into the armholes and the extensions are introduced into and sewn to the sides of the openings h below the armhole. The fold formed between the sleeve and the extensions thereof and which is indicated at form the undersections of the armholes and as the cloth at said folds is on the bias it will give or yield so as to give ease to the wearer and avoid or minimise danger of bursting of the garment at the armpit.

It is well known to provide sleeved garments having deep armholes and sleeves shaped to fit therein. In such garments the sleeves when hanging vertically simply bunch or fold in an indeterminate manner at the armholes and any additional comfort or ease obtained is due simply to the looseness in fitting of the armholes.

I claim:

1. A sleeved garment with high close fitting armholes of conventional formation formed of a body portion with arm holes having gaps on the undersection thereof, the opposite sides of the gaps being straight, and sleeves fitted into said armholes, each of said sleeves having a pair of straight sided angled extensions the sides of which make sharply defined angles with the sleeve ends, the said extensions, when the sleeves are so fitted, filling the aforesaid gaps and folding at their base to form with the underside of the sleeves definite controlled creases on the bias of the cloth, said creases forming the under section of the high close fitting armholes.

2. A sleeved garment with high close fitting armholes of conventional formation formed of a body portion with armholes having gaps on the undersections thereof, the opposite sides of the gaps being straight, and sleeves fitted into said armholes, each sleeve comprising an under sleeve section with angular extension formed integral therewith at the armhole end thereof and a top section cut to project at one side and having an extension integral therewith, the sides of the extensions being straight and making sharply defined angles with the sleeve ends and the said extensions, when the sleeves are fitted to the body portion, filling the aforesaid gaps and folding to form with the underside' of the 4 sleeves definite controlled creases on the bias of the cloth, which creases form the undersections of the high close fitting armholes and being on the bias have considerably increased give or elasticity.

3. A sleeved garment with arm holes and sleeves of the raglan type, the arm holes having gaps on the under section thereof, the sides of said gaps being straight, and raglan type sleeves each having a pair of straight sided extensions, with their bases on the bias of the cloth, formed integral therewith at the arm hole ends, the sides of said extension being straight and making sharply defined angles with the sleeve ends, said extensions, when the sleeves are sewn to the body 7 portion, filling the aforesaid gaps and folding to form with the underside of the sleeves definite controlled creases on the bias of the cloth, which creases form the undersections of high close fitting armholes and being on the bias have considerably increased give or elasticity.

' RALPH JAMIESON.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Great Britain Jan. 4, 1940

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